MG Tech Videos

Watch our recent Youtube videos below, and visit our Youtube channel for the full video collection.

You can also use the search bar below to find answers to technical questions!

CategoryTitlequestionanswer
AxlePinion Bearings I am experiencing what I think is pinion bearing noise in my 77B. I get a whine when I accelerate that increase in pitch from 35 to 40 MPH I get a different whine when I decelerate. If I let off the throttle I get no noise until it starts to decel. I can feel pinion bearing slop in the rear flange. How hard is it to replace the pinion bearings? Is there a good source of instructions for this?
Thanks
Keith Maxwell

KEITH!

I know this information arrives later than you had hoped.

There are only several easy repairs you can make to a differential -- after that, it's best to replace the entire diff unit. Two of these involve you: Tightening the pinion bearing, and replacing the washers behind the spider gears. The pinion can become loose -- it should have some resistance to turn -- a preload of about 12 lb-ft. It is nearly impossible to judge the resistance to turn because as soon as you begin to rotate the pinion, the crown wheel begins to turn, too. But, this is the only easy way to do
this. Place a socket on the pinion nut and some type of long bar, bolted to the diff flange. Let this long bar carry through and come to rest on the bottom of the battery box. Tighten up the nut by 1/12 or 1/6 of a turn and judge the resistance to turn. Take your time!
Instructions for replacing the washers behind the diff and pinion wheels is in my techbook and on the webpage (I believe). If tightening the pinion nut does not change the whine, then suffer it until you find another diff!
AxleRear EndDear John:
I have just found you and your web site, It is great!
I need information on resealing my pinion gear.I also have more than 1/4" of free play. My shop in Tacoma, Wa. does not want to do the job, they told me to find a good use rear end , because with out the crush sleeve its a very nastie job and hard to make it work right!? Do you
have a tech article on this or any thing in your book.. How can I get a copy of the book? If there is a charge for the information I will call with a credit card #.. The car is a 77 B thanks David Hardy

DAVID!

You have two problems: a leaky pinion oil seal and too much slop in the "spider gears" in the differential carrier housing. These can be corrected at the same time, but the first is far more serious -- you could run the diff out of oil -- a fatal error. The second is common to the Salisbury
diffs and the repair is detailed in my tech book which is on the way to you.
In the first case, it's necessary to remove the driveshaft, then remove the nut that holds the pinion / driveshaft flange. An air impact wrench is perfect for this job; I believe the nut is 1 5/16" dia. Then tap off the flange, pry the seal loose, fit a new seal, polish the surface of the flange on which the seal rides, and reassemble. The tricky part, of course, is just how tight to get the nut on the flange: too tight and the diff won't turn and/or the bearings will fail; too loose and the gears will chew up. The proper preload (resistance to turn) of the pinion is about 12 lb-in. This is difficult (not impossible) to "feel" with the half shafts and wheels on the car, for if you turn the pinion flange more than 1/4 inch, the resistance to turn includes not only the pinion bearings, but the crown wheel bearings, the wheel bearings, the tires, and the brakes! You must make a tool for holding the pinion stationary. A two foot flat steel bar is best -- drilled to accept two pinion flange bolts, yet allow
your socket to fit over the pinion nut. Rotate this tool and allow it to bottom out on the bottom of the battery box. Use your breaker bar to rotate the pinion nut. The nut will turn freely (well, sort of,) until the flange returns to its original position, then the torque rises
dramatically. Turn the nut 1/16 turn by 1/16 turn testing the preload after each rotation. Stop when the preload (again, you must judge this in 1/4" of rotational freeplay) begins to rise.
We do this job a lot without a problem -- your shop is simply not used to, or comfortable with, or unskilled in this repair. Changing the diff is a MUCH larger problem! Hope this helps
AxleAxel Hub Splines DiameterI found this once but I can't find it again.... what is Max/min allowable
for
axel hub splines outer diameter on a 75 mgb and also the matching ID
tolerance
on the wheel hub.

Do you have this info? or suggest where to look....

Kurt

Kurt! The original spline diameter on the hubs is 2.450". 2.425 is
really worn. 2.400 is dangerous!! The hub you can measure. The inside of
the wheel hub you cannot measure (well, I can't). So, I use my finger to
judge the "step" between the worn and unworn splines. If barely a step is
felt, well then, it's pretty good. If a definite step is felt, well -- it's
wheel time.

New wheels on new hubs should not have any rotational freeplay.

Hope this helps!

SAFETY FAST!
AxleBreaking AxlesHello John! Trust all is well on your end. Any ideas on what would
cause a '72 Midget to break an axle every couple years? Always driver's
side. Car not autocrossed, etc. One theory holds that if the axle
housing is even a bit out of line it will stress the axle. Appreciate
any thoughts. Bob sherman

BOB!

Some thoughts here about that frequent failure of the half shaft.
If the housing is bent, it WILL snap the shafts, no question! I do not know
how to discern a bent housing from a good one. If the hub is bent (from
installation of a bearing with a press), that might cause a problem. But
the most frequent cause I know is the failure of the washers under the
differential and pinion wheels. I would remove the "pig" and remove the
crown wheel carrier, then drive out the retaining pin and change the
washers, if not the differential wheels themselves!
AxleDiff Clunk MGB John have you any information on curing the diff clank on my 1973 MGB
All the best
--
Garry Ross

Garry!

I hope the following appears on your screen AND is helpful!
ELIMINATING REAR AXLE CLUNK

The Salisbury, Tubed-type, or "GT" rear axle
fitted to all MGB/GTs, virtually all MGBs from 1967, and
all MGCs develops a clunk after as little as 50,000 miles.
This clunk is evident when starting up, reversing, or
changing gears. It sounds the same as a faulty U-joint
without the ringing. The clunk occurs from too much free
play in the differential pinions and wheels, or spider
gears, which allow the axles to turn at different speeds
(cornering). This type of clunk is particular to the
Tubed-type axle, as the banjo differentials often travel
100,000 miles without developing excessive free play.

To test for free play, jack up the rear end of
the MGB and support it at the front of the leaf springs
with stands. Have an associate depress the brake pedal,
freezing movement of the rear drums and wheels. With the
gearbox in neutral, grasp the drive shaft and rotate it
through its free play. A movement in excess of 1/4" on
the circumference of the pinion driving flange is
justification for repair.

Repair is straightforward, requiring the removal
of only one half shaft. The rear plate is removed, two
pins driven out, and the gears literally fall out of the
carrier. The washers behind the gears are renewed. It
requires several hours for the home mechanic.

REPAIR TECHNIQUE

1) Loosen the left axle nut ( 1 5/16" ).

a) Disc Wheels -- Jack up the left rear only,
and support on a jack stand. Keep the car in gear and the
right rear wheel on the ground. Remove the left rear
wheel, remove the split pin, have an associate depress the
brakes o keep the hub from turning, and bread the nut
loose. Do not remove the nut yet.

b) Wire Wheels -- Remove the left rear spinner
or octagon nut. Drive the socket onto the nut, over the
split pin. Have an associate depress the brakes to keep
the hub from turning, and break the nut loose (by about
1/8th turn). Do not remove the nut yet. Remove the
socket to allow the shorn split pin ends to fall away.

2) Jack up the rear of the car. Place jack stands
at the front of the rear leaf springs, chock the front
wheels and drop the jack away. The rear axle will fall to
its lowest limit. Rock the MG to ensure it is steady. If
the petrol tank leaks from the top, it will be necessary
to drain the tank, or preferably, reassemble and drive the
car until the tank is low on fuel. Leaking gasolene must
be avoided. It is DANGEROUS!!

3) Drain the oil from the differential. Use a 3/8"
socket extension to remove the drain plug. 1980 MGBs have
no drain plug, and the filler plug is a 1/2" allen hex.
Drain the oil into a pan and properly discard it later.

4) Remove the left half shaft.

a) Remove the left rear wheel. Disconnect
handbrake cotter pin by removing the split pin, then
turning out with vise grips. A hammer or heat is
sometimes necessary to free a stubborn pin.

b) Remove brake drum fasteners.

1) Wire Wheels -- have an associate
depress the brakes to keep the hub from turning and remove
the four 3/4" nuts.

2) Disc Wheels -- Locate the phillips
screwdriver in the screw head, strike with a hammer, and
unscrew. Do not round out the phillips screws!! If they
will not come free, strike the screwdriver even harder!!

c) Back off the brake adjuster (1/4" square)
and remove the brake drum. The drum sometimes needs
prying or rapping to free it. Remove the hub nut (1
5/16") now and strike the cone washer with a punch so that
it drops free.

d) Load the hub by pulling on it, and strike
the edge with the hammer. It should pop free. Rarely is
a hub puller needed.

e) Remove the brake backing plate. Either

1) Remove the straps holding the brake
line to the rear axle casing so that the plate can be
pulled outwards over the end of the half shaft; or

2) remove the brake line fitting from the
wheel cylinder. Removing the line is more complicated,
necessitating bleeding, at least. Sometimes the brake
line twists and fatigues or breaks. If the backing plate
is separated from the brake line, keep the brake pedal
depressed with a stick so that the master cylinder
reservoir does not empty.

f) Remove the four 3/8 bolts holding the
backing plate to the rear axle housing (9/16" socket /
wrench), and tie the plate to the front of the leaf
spring, or lay aside.

g) Refit the hub, cone washer, and nut to the
half shaft. Then, rap the back side of the hub with a
hammer to drive the half shaft and bearing from its
housing. Turn the hub continuously while rapping!

5) Remove the spider gears

a) Remove the rear plate. Be careful not to
twist off the brake line held at the top of the unit.
Plate the handbrake cable over the top of the diff, or
wire it away so it does not interfere with the internal
work.

b) Rotate the carrier by turning the drive
shaft so that the 3/16" roll pin (tension pin) lies at an
upwards angle. Drive this pin out using a 5/32" punch and
discard the roll pin. IT MUST NOT BE REUSED!!

c) Again rotate the carrier so that the roll
pin end of the pinion pin is angled forwards. Use a large
punch (3/8") and drive the pinion pin forwards about 1/2".
Do not drive the pin too far forwards or it will be
impossible to turn the carrier!

d) Rotate the carrier to position the roll pin
end of the pinion pin to the rear. Grasp the end of the
pin with vise-grips TIGHTLY!, then twist and withdraw.
The pinion pin is hardened and the vise-grips should not
damage the surface.

e) Remove the four gears and four washers.
Often, the differential wheel washers have disappeared
altogether.

6) Prepare and Clean the Parts.

a) Hold the new roll pin (3/16" x 1 1/2" in a
vise and open the inside diameter to 7/64" with a drill.
This is necessary as the ends are slightly crimped from
cutting. If a bench vise is not available, hold the pin
vertically in vise grips and frill downwards onto a block
of wood.

b) Clean the old gasket from the differential
and rear plate. A hand held propane torch will warm the
plate sufficiently to allow the gasket to easily peel
away.

c) Replace the hub seal into its housing, if a
new seal is fitted. Use a liberal amount of grease on the
inside of the housing and the outside of the seal to
facilitate installation. Tap the new seal into place
using a wide faced hammer, or using a block of wood to
keep the seal parallel with the housing base.

7) Replace the spider gears.

a) Liberally grease the new washers and gears,
and place the differential wheels into the carrier.

b) Place the differential pinions onto the
differential wheels, directly opposed, washers on the
gears, and rotate the gears/washers so that the holes in
the pinions line up with the pinion pin holes in the
carrier.

c) Replace the pinion pin, ensuring that the
roll pin holes are aligned.

d) Drive the roll pin through the carrier and
pinion pin. Use the large punch.

e) Fit the 7/64 x 2" split pin through the
roll pin, then splay the ends. This extra thickness
dramatically increases the shear strength of the roll pin
and prevents the pinion pin from rotating and breaking
loose. THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT!!

f) Refit the back plate and gasket, using
silicone RTV sealant -- but use a thin film only.

8) Refit the half shaft and brakes.

a) Drive the half shaft and bearing into the
differential housing. Position the castle hub nut on the
half shaft so the hammer damages neither the shaft nor the
nut.

b) Plate a thin coat of RTV silicone sealant
on the backside of the hub cap, use the 3/8" bolts as
guides, and tap the cap into place.

c) Refit the brake backing plate. Reconnect
the brake lines and refit the brake line straps.

d) Refit the hub, cone washer, and nut.

e) Fit the brake drum and tighten screws (disc
wheel) or nuts (wire wheel) and adjust brakes.

f) Bleed the brakes if necessary.

g) Have an associate depress the brake pedal
and tighten the drum nuts or screws.

h) Reconnect the handbrake cable (cable
adjustment may be necessary.

8) Refill the differential. Fill only until the oil
is felt on the finger. The MGB should be level when
filling, so leave the filler plug out until the car again
sits on the lever. Refit the left wheel and drop the MGB
to the ground. Allow the excess oil to drain from the
filler hole. It is better to be a bit too low than a bit
too high when refilling the differential.

9) Jack up the left rear, leaving right rear on the
ground, and depress the brakes. Remove the disc wheel or
wire wheel spinner or nut, and tighten the hub nut TIGHT
so that the split pin holes align with the castle nut.
Fit and splay the split pin. Fit the differential filler
plug. Refit the left rear wheel and set again on the
ground.

10) Test the brakes and drive away WITHOUT the
clunk!!!


ANTI-CLUNK TOOL KIT
JACK
JACK STANDS (PAIR)
LUG WRENCH or WHEEL NUT SPANNER
3/4" SOCKET for DRUM NUTS
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER for DISC WHEELS
1/4" SQUARE SOCKET or WRENCH for BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
9/16" SOCKET and WRENCH for BRAKE BACKING PLATE
1 5/16" SOCKET, SIX INCH EXTENSION, and BREAKER BAR for
HUB NUTS
1/2" SOCKET and THIN 1/2" WRENCH for REAR PLATE
5/32" PUNCH for ROLL PIN
3/8" PUNCH for PINION PIN
VISE GRIPS for PINION PIN
HAMMER!
BRAKE BLEEDER WRENCH or SOCKET (1/8")
FILLER SPOUT for GEAR OIL
7/32" BIT AND DRILL for TENSION PIN
SILICONE GASKET SEALANT
GREASE


ANTI-CLUNK PARTS KIT


PART FACTORY MOSS
GASKET BTB 674 296-210
ROLL PIN (3/16" x 1 1/2") BTB 715 267-125
PINION WASHERS 1G 7445 267-130
DIFFER WASHERS ATB 7072 267-140
WHEEL SEAL GHS 179 120-700
SPLIT PIN 7/64" x 2" NPN
SPLIT PIN 5%
AxleRear wheel bearingsJohn

It is possible to change the rear wheel bearings on a 1972 GT (semi-floating axle) myself ?

A couple of garage's I have spoken to say the bearings must be pressed back in with specialist equipment. Is this true?

Any advise you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Yours Faithfully

Craig Broadhurst

CRAIG! First, it would be most unusual to have a problem with the rear wheel bearings. I cannot remember the last time we changed one!

You only need a shop arbor press -- not an exotic piece of equipment, really. Pulling the half shafts from the rear axle will be as difficult as finding the shop to press the old ones off and the new ones on.

Try this: Remove the drum, hub, and backing plate. Now refit the conical washer - BACKWARDS - along with the castellated nut. Use a slide hammer with a three finger gear puller attachment, fitting the fingers around the back side of that conical washer.

Hope this offers some direction!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
AxleSpridget Axle Shaft Mess John,
Thank you for your service. This is a mess, and I hope you can help.
I'm working on a 1961 AH Sprite with a broken axle shaft. The problem
is, I cannot get the shaft out. I've tried using a slide hammer/puller
and can only get it out about 3/8". After that, all I seem to do is
scoot the car across the floor. I thought about using some sort of
dowel to shove through the other side, but the pin for the diff planet
gears is in the way. As you already know, this car has a banjo type
axle. There is no way to access the diff without removing it, and I
don't see any way of removing the diff without pulling out the axle
shaft! Can you help?

Anxiously awaiting your reply,

Chad Stretz

CHAD!

By now you've been successful, no doubt -- and I'm certain that you
found that you simply had to hold the car down and use a LARGER slide
hammer. The half shaft twisted off at the differential wheel, most likely,
and the break caused the OD of the shaft to interfere with the crown wheel
carrier. If you used a "new and improved" method to remove this, please let
me know!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
AxleMGB Rear Ends Hi John -

Not sure if you're using this email for technical assistance questions
but thought I'd ask. You've been very helpful in the past and I
appreciate it.

I own an early MGB (chassis #951) with the banjo style rear end.
Unfortunately, the rear axle oil level ran low due to leaking seals at
the wheels and the outer wheel bearings got hot. I mean very hot -
smoke was flowing out of the left hand wheel well. Preceding this, that
outer bearing had begun clicking.

Out with my wife on a Sunday drive, thought the clicking was a pebble in
the tire tread at first. Didn't want to call a tow truck with my wife
along and thought I could limp it home. Mistake and expensive miles.
Should have known better.

Anyway, locally someone knowledgeable about the early style of MGB rear
end said if it got that hot, not only are the bearings ruined but the
bearing housings in the axle casting are probably distorted and I'm
better off just finding a good used entire rear axle assembly and
substituting this one for my old.

He also suggested that I'd have an easier time finding a later style
(tube type) rear end and better chances that it would be in good shape
since it would be newer and the design was much stronger. My car has
disc wheels by the way, and I want to keep it this way.

I haven't taken my old rear end apart yet but fear the worse. Having
done a rear axle swop on a GT years ago, I know that it's not too much
work. Probably easier than tearing my old rear axle assembly apart,
sourcing seals, bearings etc, and reassembling. Perhaps still to have
problems.

Anyway, my questions are these:

1) Do you agree that it's probable that my car's rear axle tube
assemblies are ruined by the overheating? If you recommend that I tear
it down to see, what do I look for in those bearing housings. Also, I
only have a three eared gear puller style puller, can I pull the wheel
hub off with this or need a more specialized tool?

2) What sort of adaption challenge would using a later model rear axle
assembly entail? I seem to recall hearing that the drive shafts are
different but I'm not certain, and that maybe there's a clearance
problem with the original style gas tank on my car. Can this
substitution work?

3) If I decide to go with a used rear axle (newer or older style), what
are some inspection tips on finding a servicable unit w/o dissassembly?
I'd assume checking for free play in the half shaft ends at the wheel
hubs, looking for obvious leaks at the wheel ends & differential case
and trying to sense excessive backlash between the ring and pinion gear
set by rotating and reversing the axle ends quickly.

That's all I can think of but I do have a known good wire wheel rear end
in my garage from a GT. Can't use it since I don't want wires and it
may not fit anyway. But it gives me a test bench to try hand or machine
tool measurements that you'd suggest before I go looking at used parts.

Thanks for your advice and help with this complex set of questions.

Chas Wasser

Charles!

I would hunt for a the proper banjo style rear end. While the
Salisbury, Tubed, or "GT" differential is heavier construction, those early
ones "never" fail (well, there ARE exceptions). Plus, the GT diffs pick up
a clunk after a while, and the banjo style diffs never seem to clunk.

If you are going to swap banjo for GT, you MUST make certain that
you keep the width the same -- the disc wheel diff is wider by 3/4" on each
side.

"They" say that the GT diff is too large for the early cars, but
I've never had a problem fitting one to an earlier car -- but then, yours is
really EARLY.

Before I went through all this, I'd pull the half shafts and then
pull the "pig" for a good inspection. If the pig is burned up, simply find
another. If the wheel (hub) bearings are burned up, buy new ones. If the
differential housing is faulty -- because one of the hub bearings spun on
it -- well then, you WILL have to find another diff.

Let me know -- I do have a complete WW banjo diff that is looking
for a new home -- but it's folly to make any plans until you've made a full
inspection of the unit you have!

Hope this little bit helps. Sorry for the delay!

John
AxleRear axle clunk John
I have a 1970 MGB with the rear end clunk. I was told you did an article
on
the problem. I can't find anything of yours on mightywords.com. Is there
another place I can look?

Thanks
Mike


ELIMINATING REAR AXLE CLUNK

The Salisbury, Tubed-type, or "GT" rear axle
fitted to all MGB/GTs, virtually all MGBs from 1967, and
all MGCs develops a clunk after as little as 50,000 miles.
This clunk is evident when starting up, reversing, or
changing gears. It sounds the same as a faulty U-joint
without the ringing. The clunk occurs from too much free
play in the differential pinions and wheels, or spider
gears, which allow the axles to turn at different speeds
(cornering). This type of clunk is particular to the
Tubed-type axle, as the banjo differentials often travel
100,000 miles without developing excessive free play.

To test for free play, jack up the rear end of
the MGB and support it at the front of the leaf springs
with stands. Have an associate depress the brake pedal,
freezing movement of the rear drums and wheels. With the
gearbox in neutral, grasp the drive shaft and rotate it
through its free play. A movement in excess of 1/4" on
the circumference of the pinion driving flange is
justification for repair.

Repair is straightforward, requiring the removal
of only one half shaft. The rear plate is removed, two
pins driven out, and the gears literally fall out of the
carrier. The washers behind the gears are renewed. It
requires several hours for the home mechanic.

REPAIR TECHNIQUE

1) Loosen the left axle nut ( 1 5/16" ).

a) Disc Wheels -- Jack up the left rear only,
and support on a jack stand. Keep the car in gear and the
right rear wheel on the ground. Remove the left rear
wheel, remove the split pin, have an associate depress the
brakes o keep the hub from turning, and bread the nut
loose. Do not remove the nut yet.

b) Wire Wheels -- Remove the left rear spinner
or octagon nut. Drive the socket onto the nut, over the
split pin. Have an associate depress the brakes to keep
the hub from turning, and break the nut loose (by about
1/8th turn). Do not remove the nut yet. Remove the
socket to allow the shorn split pin ends to fall away.

2) Jack up the rear of the car. Place jack stands
at the front of the rear leaf springs, chock the front
wheels and drop the jack away. The rear axle will fall to
its lowest limit. Rock the MG to ensure it is steady. If
the petrol tank leaks from the top, it will be necessary
to drain the tank, or preferably, reassemble and drive the
car until the tank is low on fuel. Leaking gasolene must
be avoided. It is DANGEROUS!!

3) Drain the oil from the differential. Use a 3/8"
socket extension to remove the drain plug. 1980 MGBs have
no drain plug, and the filler plug is a 1/2" allen hex.
Drain the oil into a pan and properly discard it later.

4) Remove the left half shaft.

a) Remove the left rear wheel. Disconnect
handbrake cotter pin by removing the split pin, then
turning out with vise grips. A hammer or heat is
sometimes necessary to free a stubborn pin.

b) Remove brake drum fasteners.

1) Wire Wheels -- have an associate
depress the brakes to keep the hub from turning and remove
the four 3/4" nuts.

2) Disc Wheels -- Locate the phillips
screwdriver in the screw head, strike with a hammer, and
unscrew. Do not round out the phillips screws!! If they
will not come free, strike the screwdriver even harder!!

c) Back off the brake adjuster (1/4" square)
and remove the brake drum. The drum sometimes needs
prying or rapping to free it. Remove the hub nut (1
5/16") now and strike the cone washer with a punch so that
it drops free.

d) Load the hub by pulling on it, and strike
the edge with the hammer. It should pop free. Rarely is
a hub puller needed.

e) Remove the brake backing plate. Either

1) Remove the straps holding the brake
line to the rear axle casing so that the plate can be
pulled outwards over the end of the half shaft; or

2) remove the brake line fitting from the
wheel cylinder. Removing the line is more complicated,
necessitating bleeding, at least. Sometimes the brake
line twists and fatigues or breaks. If the backing plate
is separated from the brake line, keep the brake pedal
depressed with a stick so that the master cylinder
reservoir does not empty.

f) Remove the four 3/8 bolts holding the
backing plate to the rear axle housing (9/16" socket /
wrench), and tie the plate to the front of the leaf
spring, or lay aside.

g) Refit the hub, cone washer, and nut to the
half shaft. Then, rap the back side of the hub with a
hammer to drive the half shaft and bearing from its
housing. Turn the hub continuously while rapping!

5) Remove the spider gears

a) Remove the rear plate. Be careful not to
twist off the brake line held at the top of the unit.
Plate the handbrake cable over the top of the diff, or
wire it away so it does not interfere with the internal
work.

b) Rotate the carrier by turning the drive
shaft so that the 3/16" roll pin (tension pin) lies at an
upwards angle. Drive this pin out using a 5/32" punch and
discard the roll pin. IT MUST NOT BE REUSED!!

c) Again rotate the carrier so that the roll
pin end of the pinion pin is angled forwards. Use a large
punch (3/8") and drive the pinion pin forwards about 1/2".
Do not drive the pin too far forwards or it will be
impossible to turn the carrier!

d) Rotate the carrier to position the roll pin
end of the pinion pin to the rear. Grasp the end of the
pin with vise-grips TIGHTLY!, then twist and withdraw.
The pinion pin is hardened and the vise-grips should not
damage the surface.

e) Remove the four gears and four washers.
Often, the differential wheel washers have disappeared
altogether.

6) Prepare and Clean the Parts.

a) Hold the new roll pin (3/16" x 1 1/2" in a
vise and open the inside diameter to 7/64" with a drill.
This is necessary as the ends are slightly crimped from
cutting. If a bench vise is not available, hold the pin
vertically in vise grips and frill downwards onto a block
of wood.

b) Clean the old gasket from the differential
and rear plate. A hand held propane torch will warm the
plate sufficiently to allow the gasket to easily peel
away.

c) Replace the hub seal into its housing, if a
new seal is fitted. Use a liberal amount of grease on the
inside of the housing and the outside of the seal to
facilitate installation. Tap the new seal into place
using a wide faced hammer, or using a block of wood to
keep the seal parallel with the housing base.

7) Replace the spider gears.

a) Liberally grease the new washers and gears,
and place the differential wheels into the carrier.

b) Place the differential pinions onto the
differential wheels, directly opposed, washers on the
gears, and rotate the gears/washers so that the holes in
the pinions line up with the pinion pin holes in the
carrier.

c) Replace the pinion pin, ensuring that the
roll pin holes are aligned.

d) Drive the roll pin through the carrier and
pinion pin. Use the large punch.

e) Fit the 7/64 x 2" split pin through the
roll pin, then splay the ends. This extra thickness
dramatically increases the shear strength of the roll pin
and prevents the pinion pin from rotating and breaking
loose. THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT!!

f) Refit the back plate and gasket, using
silicone RTV sealant -- but use a thin film only.

8) Refit the half shaft and brakes.

a) Drive the half shaft and bearing into the
differential housing. Position the castle hub nut on the
half shaft so the hammer damages neither the shaft nor the
nut.

b) Plate a thin coat of RTV silicone sealant
on the backside of the hub cap, use the 3/8" bolts as
guides, and tap the cap into place.

c) Refit the brake backing plate. Reconnect
the brake lines and refit the brake line straps.

d) Refit the hub, cone washer, and nut.

e) Fit the brake drum and tighten screws (disc
wheel) or nuts (wire wheel) and adjust brakes.

f) Bleed the brakes if necessary.

g) Have an associate depress the brake pedal
and tighten the drum nuts or screws.

h) Reconnect the handbrake cable (cable
adjustment may be necessary.

8) Refill the differential. Fill only until the oil
is felt on the finger. The MGB should be level when
filling, so leave the filler plug out until the car again
sits on the lever. Refit the left wheel and drop the MGB
to the ground. Allow the excess oil to drain from the
filler hole. It is better to be a bit too low than a bit
too high when refilling the differential.

9) Jack up the left rear, leaving right rear on the
ground, and depress the brakes. Remove the disc wheel or
wire wheel spinner or nut, and tighten the hub nut TIGHT
so that the split pin holes align with the castle nut.
Fit and splay the split pin. Fit the differential filler
plug. Refit the left rear wheel and set again on the
ground.

10) Test the brakes and drive away WITHOUT the
clunk!!!

ANTI-CLUNK TOOL KIT

JACK
JACK STANDS (PAIR)
LUG WRENCH or WHEEL NUT SPANNER
3/4" SOCKET for DRUM NUTS
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER for DISC WHEELS
1/4" SQUARE SOCKET or WRENCH for BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
9/16" SOCKET and WRENCH for BRAKE BACKING PLATE
1 5/16" SOCKET, SIX INCH EXTENSION, and BREAKER BAR for
HUB NUTS
1/2" SOCKET and THIN 1/2" WRENCH for REAR PLATE
5/32" PUNCH for ROLL PIN
3/8" PUNCH for PINION PIN
VISE GRIPS for PINION PIN
HAMMER!
BRAKE BLEEDER WRENCH or SOCKET (1/8")
FILLER SPOUT for GEAR OIL
7/32" BIT AND DRILL for TENSION PIN
SILICONE GASKET SEALANT
GREASE

ANTI-CLUNK PARTS KIT


PART FACTORY MOSS
GASKET BTB 674 296-210
ROLL PIN (3/16" x 1 1/2") BTB 715 267-125
PINION WASHERS 1G 7445 267-130
DIFFER WASHERS ATB 7072 267-140
WHEEL SEAL GHS 179 120-700
SPLIT PIN 7/64" x 2" NPN
SPLIT PIN 5/32" x 1 1/2" NPN
BRAKE FLUID LMA
90/140 GEAR OIL 2 Pints
AxleMGB 70' Rear Axle
John, I have a 1970 MGB 4 cyl. I have noticed a grinding sound coming
from the back. However,
I only hear it when the top is up. It starts in 3rd gear. If I press in
the clutch, the noise remains.
I jacked the back off the ground and ran the car in 3rd, the noise was
there, but I could not
identify exactly where it was coming from.
How hard is it to rebuild ? and can a novice do the work.

Thanks in advance
Larry Montreal Quebec Canada.

Larry!

This is a tardy response to your rear axle problem. Several things:

First: drain the old oil and try new oil.
Second: Grasp the pinion and try to shake it up and down -- there
should be NO freeplay in this shaft!!! If there is, you'll have to change
the front bearing.

Third: You can remove the back cover of the diff and make a visual
inspection of the gears -- but without the experience of having seen
hundreds, you'll only note a problem if it's REALLY bad.

Fourth: The rear wheel bearings rarely fail -- leave the car in
neutral and spin one wheel, then the other. Even then, hearing a problem
like this may be difficult.

It is possible to COMPLETELY disassemble the diff in place. The
only difficulties are withdrawing the half shafts (you need a "slide
hammer") and setting the pinion back up with the correct preload -- you need
a inch-pound torque wrench which will indicate 12 lb-in.

I've attached an article about the differentials -- this is NOT your
problem, but indicative of the degree of difficulty you'll encounter if you
disassemble the whole unit.

Get back in touch if you need more info -- I'm getting more caught
up with my emails.

Happy New Year!

John

Axle69' MGB Rear End ClunkJohn,

I have a clunk in what sounds like the driver side rear end of my 1969 MGB. It occurs when going over even very slight bumps and seems to have nothing to do with accelerating or slowing. I've checked everything for tightness and find nothing loose (shocks or springs) or visibly damaged. The shocks are the original but have no signs of leakage and are full of fluid. I'm left to assume it must be the shocks (based on browsing the web and newsgroup postings) and am prepared to either purchase new or refurbished shocks. First, do you agree with my plan of action? Should I go with new or refurbished shocks? What are the pro's and con's of a conversion to tube shocks? I'm intrigued by the handling performance enhancement reported for tube shocks but since I'm not a very aggressive driver it might be more logical to stick with the stock shocks and maybe upgrade to the heavier fluid as you recommend on your web site. I gather if I go with a rebuilt original shock it's important to have a reliable rebuild company and consequently I would appreciate your recommendation or better yet maybe learn that I can purchase them through University Motors. I think I owe you one from when I previously took your advise on purchasing an ANSI exhaust system but overlooked the fact that I could have actually purchased the system from you. Thanks in advance for your assistance (again!),

Tim


Tim!

The shock is most likely NOT the problem. You should first tighten the shock to the frame as they do come loose (rarely). Secondly, with the rear end of the car up off the ground supported on jack stands under the rear axle (not the frame or springs), grasp the shock link and violently shake it. My guess is that the shock link is faulty -- egged out at the bottom -- that's pretty common.

To change it, remove the shock from the frame, remove the plate from the bottom of the leaf spring; remove the nuts, and strike the threaded stud with a BIG hammer and "pop," the shock link will separated from the damper arm and from the rear spring plate.

Hope this helps!

John
AxleAxles and Wheels Dear John Twist,

I located your email from your web-site. I have a technical
question which I tried to locate in the Q&A section of your web
site and did a search as well but while there were many similar
questions I do not feel as if I know the answer to my question.

Here it is:

I own a 1971 MGB and want to change my wire wheels for Rostyle wheels.

I have found another MGB owner who would like to swap his (1979 MGB)
ROstyle
wheels for my (1971 MGB) wire wheels.

I have removed the wheels and hubs that hold them to the axle and then
looking at the MGB workshop manual noticed a difference in the
diagrams
showing two axles, one for disc wheels and the other for wire wheels.

Is it necessary to replace the axle shafts as well? From what I can
see on the outside of the axle shafts all dimensions and components
look
identical, is there some internal difference?

I would appreciate your assistance or direct me to a response you have
already made so as not to have to repeat yourself. Thanks again.

Eric Connell

Eric!

Your exchange would be relatively simple if your associate had a
pre
77 MGB. As it is, the exchange may be difficult.

The front hubs swap back and forth -- no problem. Just make
certain
you have enough shims to set up the end float; and DO NOT get the hubs
switched left to right.

The rear axle must be changed COMPLETELY -- the disc wheel diff
is
wider than the wire wheel diff. This would not be a problem, but in 1977
the factory added a rear anti- sway bar. To make this exchange in my
shop,
I would cut the ears for the sway bar from the 1979 rear axle and fit the
works to your car, no problem. Then, I would fit your rear axle to his
car,
mount the sway bar, load the rear axle to it is "just" beginning to lift
the
car, and weld those ears onto your old diff.

Let me know if you want more information!

John

Thank you very much John,

I appreciate your advice. Another question unrelated,
will you be attending the All British Car show in Kansas City this
fall? I think it is in September?

sincerely,

Eric



Eric!

I'll be at the Abingdon Summer Party in Abingdon IL on August
17th -- that's as far west as I'm travelling for the rest of the year.

John
AxleRear End Clunk Cont.Tim!

The shock is most likely NOT the problem. You should first tighten the shock to the frame as they do come loose (rarely). Secondly, with the rear end of the car up off the ground supported on jack stands under the rear axle (not the frame or springs), grasp the shock link and violently shake it. My guess is that the shock link is faulty -- egged out at the bottom -- that's pretty common.

To change it, remove the shock from the frame, remove the plate from the bottom of the leaf spring; remove the nuts, and strike the threaded stud with a BIG hammer and "pop," the shock link will separated from the damper arm and from the rear spring plate.

Hope this helps!

John

John,

Good call. I've replaced the links and all the clunks are gone. The one that was obviously bad was on the opposite side I thought the noise was coming from. It had worn an oblong hole in the upper connector and was quite loose. I also replaced the rebound straps while I was at it- they were the originals and were cracked in multiple places with very little elasticity. I don't drive the car that much but what a joy to drive now without all the rear end noise. I truly thank you for your assistance.

Tim
AxleMagnette Rear AxelsHi John,
Anyway, a fellow has offered me a 4.1 rear axle (pumpkin) from a 1960 MGA 1600. Would this fit the ZB Magnette? As easy as the early MGB 3.9? Do I need the half shafts? Does the spline coarseness or fineness differ between these gear sets? If it will work, is it just an exchange or is there more to it? Finally what would be the approximate roadspeed in mph per 1000 rpm?
Thanks for your time,
John
John!

There are three different sets of differential wheels you can fit into these diffs: 10 spline; 25 spline; and 26 spline. You can always take the wheels from YOUR diff and insert them into the 4.1 diff.


According to my workshop manual, the relative road speeds for these diffs is:

8/41 5.125 14.4
8/39 4.875 15.2
9/41 4.555 16.2
10/43 4.300 17.2
10/41 4.100 18.0
11/43 3.909 18.9

All based on a 15" rim (but probably with bias ply tyres)

John
Axle'69 MG Midget rear axleWhat is the recommended torque tightness on the Midget rear axle bolts..the U bolts that hold the thing to the springs????
I can't seem to get mine to stay tightened. Even tried using "airplane" bolts (the ones with the plastic locking inserts) but this is no good either.
Just bought a whole new set of nuts washers and lock washers (the split type) and presently have them down to 20-25 lbs/ft each bolt. This seems to have squashed the new rubber pads nicely but will it be enough? Don't want to bend the mounting brackets which it seems I can easily do if go too tight. Any thoughts or recommendations??? I can't find a "factory" recommended figure in any of my shop/service manuals.

Thanks

G.Wayne
Wayne!

We don't put a torque on them as much as we watch what's happening with the U bolts, the rubber mounts, and the plates. I like to tighten them until I "just" begin to see the plates begin to distort. You can always double nut them to keep them from backing off. Is your problem that the nuts loosen - really? -- or is the problem with torque steering from the back of the car?

John
AxleRing GearJohn
I am doing a complete rebuild of 1970 MGB Roadster and as part of it I
was going to install a new ring gear. I would like to know what is the ID
of the ring and what is the OD where it fits to the flywheel? In other
words what is the interference fit? The reason I ask is because I think
the old ring gear was slipping because there is a ridge that the old ring
gear had to get over in order to get it off. I can't imagine that ridge
should be there. It would seem to me the two dimensions should be in a
manual since you should check them before installing a new ring gear. None
of my 4 manuals have anything.
Don
Don!

In my 30+ years of working on MGs, I've never seen a slipping ring
gear from any engine, any year. Further, I am not certain if I have ever
had to change a ring gear on a 68- MGB since the starter motor is
pre-engaged and doesn't damage the teeth on the gear during operation. Yet,
from the description of your flywheel, it certainly seems that the gear may
have been slipping. I do believe that a less expensive route would be to
find a used flywheel (with a good ring gear), and substitute it for yours.
To answer your question, I do not have those measurements.

Hope this helps.

John
AxleRear Axel BearingsJohn,

I'm trying to put together an MGA/early MGB rear axle to hang in the rear of my MGB GT race car. This axle came to me in pieces missing all the bearings.

Two questions:

I have an old shop manual that calls out special tool "pinion setting tool #18G-191-82. What are the dimensions of this gauge?

Might you have generic numbers for the bearings in this diff?

Thanks.


Alan
Alan,

The critical measurement here is the distance from the center of the carrier bearings to the head of the pinion. If that's off by 0.005" you can get howling. However, I do not know that measurement. If you want to call at the shop, today, I can give you the Timken numbers for the two pinion bearings and the carrier bearing (times two), but I don't have those numbers here at the house.

I am not certain where you can find that pinion depth number. Barney Gaylord has a large site at www.mgaguru.com.

I've been bothered that I do not know this number. I know I can get it from experimentation, but someone out there must have it already.

John
AxlePinion Oil Seal 1968 MGBHello John,

I need to replace my pinion oil seal on my tube axle. I am concerned about having to use special tools as per workshop manual. I do have standard torque wrenches. Do you recommend this operation? If not, I am not sure who could do this here in the Milwaukee area.

Thanks for you advise.

Henri


Henri,

This is a difficult task to do at home as you need a "special tool"
and the drive flange can be very difficult to remove.
Basically, you're going to remove the front flange of the differential, pry
out the seal, fit a new seal, and refit the flange. The flange is
sometimes stuck, stuck fast -- so you need to tap it forward with your
hammer, turning it slightly between each tap so nothing is bent or stressed.
When the flange comes off, you will want to polish the contact surface with
some fine grit paper (600 or so).

The old seal comes out with a pry bar or with a long, heavy
screwdriver. The new one is inserted and tapped into place with a hammer --
carefully!

Now comes the part that needs finesse. Reinstall the flange, fit
the nut, then begin to tighten the nut, constantly feeling the restriction
to movement of the front flange. You are searching for a pre-load, or
resistance to turn, of about one foot pound. The "feel" is a very slight
tightening. The problem here is that the flange rotates independently of
the crown wheel by as little as 1/8" on its circumference -- and you must
gauge the preload in that distance! Further, you should not use an air
impact to turn the nut as there is little control. You should use a long
1/2" breaker bar. But, you have to keep the flange from turning, so you'll
have to make up a tool that you can bolt to the front flange. I've used a
3/4" piece of rod, about two feet long, with two 5/16" holes on one end.
Run two 5/16" bolts through those holes, fix them tightly with nuts, and use
that, passed through the 5/16" holes in the diff flange to keep the flange
from turning. You could bolt this tool to the front flange, but then you
wouldn't be able to feel the preload. Tighten, feel; tighten, feel;
tighten,feel. Eventually you'll begin to draw the two taper bearings close
together and achieve this very slight resistance to turn.

I'd be pleased to review this with you on the phone. Of course, it
would make a good addition to our YouTube videos.

BTW, don't forget to refill the diff with oil!

Hope this helps!

John
AxlePinion Oil Seal I need to replace my pinion oil seal on my tube axle. I am concerned
about having to use special tools as per workshop manual.
I do have standard torque wrenches. Do you recommend this operation?
If not, I am not sure who could do this here in the Milwaukee area.
This is a difficult task to do at home as you need a "special
tool" and the drive flange can be very difficult to remove.
Basically, you're going to remove the front flange of the differential,
pry out the seal, fit a new seal, and refit the flange. The flange is
sometimes stuck, stuck fast -- so you need to tap it forward with your
hammer, turning it slightly between each tap so nothing is bent or
stressed. When the flange comes off, you will want to polish the contact
surface with some fine grit paper (600 or so).

The old seal comes out with a pry bar or with a long, heavy
screwdriver. The new one is inserted and tapped into place with a
hammer -- carefully!

Now comes the part that needs finesse. Reinstall the flange, fit
the nut, then begin to tighten the nut, constantly feeling the
restriction to movement of the front flange. You are searching for a
pre-load, or resistance to turn, of about one foot pound. The "feel" is
a very slight tightening. The problem here is that the flange rotates
independently of the crown wheel by as little as 1/8" on its
circumference -- and you must gauge the preload in that distance!
Further, you should not use an air impact to turn the nut as there is
little control. You should use a long 1/2" breaker bar. But, you have
to keep the flange from turning, so you'll have to make up a tool that
you can bolt to the front flange. I've used a 3/4" piece of rod, about
two feet long, with two 5/16" holes on one end. Run two 5/16" bolts
through those holes, fix them tightly with nuts, and use that, passed
through the 5/16" holes in the diff flange to keep the flange from
turning. You could bolt this tool to the front flange, but then you
wouldn't be able to feel the preload. Tighten, feel; tighten, feel;
tighten,feel. Eventually you'll begin to draw the two taper bearings
close together and achieve this very slight resistance to turn.

I'd be pleased to review this with you on the phone. Of course,
it would make a good addition to our YouTube videos.

BTW, don't forget to refill the diff with oil!
AxlePinion Oil Seal I need to replace my pinion oil seal on my tube axle. I am concerned
about having to use special tools as per workshop manual.
I do have standard torque wrenches. Do you recommend this operation?
If not, I am not sure who could do this here in the Milwaukee area.
This is a difficult task to do at home as you need a "special tool"
and the drive flange can be very difficult to remove.
Basically, you're going to remove the front flange of the differential, pry
out the seal, fit a new seal, and refit the flange. The flange is
sometimes stuck, stuck fast -- so you need to tap it forward with your
hammer, turning it slightly between each tap so nothing is bent or stressed.
When the flange comes off, you will want to polish the contact surface with
some fine grit paper (600 or so).

The old seal comes out with a pry bar or with a long, heavy
screwdriver. The new one is inserted and tapped into place with a hammer --
carefully!

Now comes the part that needs finesse. Reinstall the flange, fit
the nut, then begin to tighten the nut, constantly feeling the restriction
to movement of the front flange. You are searching for a pre-load, or
resistance to turn, of about one foot pound. The "feel" is a very slight
tightening. The problem here is that the flange rotates independently of
the crown wheel by as little as 1/8" on its circumference -- and you must
gauge the preload in that distance! Further, you should not use an air
impact to turn the nut as there is little control. You should use a long
1/2" breaker bar. But, you have to keep the flange from turning, so you'll
have to make up a tool that you can bolt to the front flange. I've used a
3/4" piece of rod, about two feet long, with two 5/16" holes on one end.
Run two 5/16" bolts through those holes, fix them tightly with nuts, and use
that, passed through the 5/16" holes in the diff flange to keep the flange
from turning. You could bolt this tool to the front flange, but then you
wouldn't be able to feel the preload. Tighten, feel; tighten, feel;
tighten,feel. Eventually you'll begin to draw the two taper bearings close
together and achieve this very slight resistance to turn.
BodyPaintJohn; I would like to direct you to both the Original MG Forum in which I helped to establish as well as to a particular thread: http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?71,2252359 As you are aware I am certain- the MGB community is squarely divided in the necessity to maintain their cars for road use, drivable upgrades and current safety modifications; and performance enhancements; just as many are keen on preserving and maintaining originality. However- there needs to be a compilation of points of originality for MGB production far beyond what is detailed in Clausager's book ORIGINAL MGB which yourself and one of the MG Experience members Lloyd Faust proofread. You have seen my restoration photographs and are aware of my efforts to accurately build an historic SCCA rally car on an as original platform. Within this thread we are examining two points of originality whether the bolts and seals of the front inner fender flitch were painted; but also of the rugated paint found in that area; on the underside of the monocoque; and along the bottom of the cockpit; floor pans; and transmission tunnel. This was not a rustproofing to our knowledge but Lloyd Faust has suggested it to be soundproofing which is quite plausable since it is found in sound transmittal areas within the car's interior. The paint does contain upon examination a tar like substance within the raised areas. John- What do you know about the inner fender panel- was it painted at Pressed Steel then added to the car in Abingdon? This would account for the unpainted bolts and rubber seal. As far as the sound deadening paint- examples suggest application as early as 1962 throughout the production range. Lloyd Faust provided a 1974 example. What are your observations here? Our efforts are aimed at perhaps establishing a restoration manual for the MGB encompassing the years of production and as many aspects as we can. It would be similar to efforts by Corvette and Austin Healey owners and organizations such as the NCRS to document authenticity. Would you be willing to become a reference for this effort? It would require email correspondence periodically as different aspects of the production are confirmed and documented. Thank you for your time and consideration in this matter. God Bless! Tony Brown RN mgbbrownTony, The cars were delivered to Abingdon painted with the hood fitted. My best guess here is that the splash panels were fitted after the fenders were fitted, hence the unpainted bolts (and Phillips screw at the bottom). This is only my best guess – I cannot back it up. As far as the undercoating on the bottom surface, I cannot tell you whether it’s rust preventative or sound deadening. Remember that those tar like panels were fitted into the recesses of the embossed floor – that’s sound deadening for sure. But the goop on the bottom? I would guess it to be rust preventative as the sound deadening was handled on top. But again, this is only my best guess. Tony, you know that I have an extensive library of factory publications, and most (but not all) of the confidential service memoranda sent to the dealers by the manufacturer (BMC, BL, JRT). So, yes, I would be pleased to be included in this effort. Do not forget the incredible knowledge within the British Motor Trade Association (britcar.org). I noticed you still have Caroline listed in the address. This past Saturday was the third anniversary of her death. Thanks for all your work to ensure that our cars are original! John
BodyPaint Suggestion> Question: Hi, John! > > First off, let me say that I wish I lived near to your shop instead of in Washington state so I could bring my B in for service. > > I have a 1974 B that is Citron. I purchased the car many years ago because it is virtually rust free and I have never liked the colour. I have the engine out to rebuild and am considering painting the engine bay with a new colour so that when (and if!) I repaint the car, that work will be already done. > > However, a couple of people told me that the Citron colour is rather rare, so my question is: Should I repaint my car a more subdued colour or are Citron coloured Bs rare enough that I should just swallow hard, make a fresh pot of tea and live with it? > > Thanks for your opinion and advice. > > Regards and best wishes to you in rebuilding your company. > > Peter DuPrePeter, Some guys like redheads. Some guys like blondes. Citron is one of those rare earth colors like mirage, aqua, limeflower, or tundra. In the day it was called snot yellow ('cause it's not green and it's not yellow) but with all these years passed, it is rarely seen and fascinating. I can tell you that changing the color the car is a very difficult job to do correctly. The trunk must be changed and the interior has to be removed to cut in around all the door jambs etc. Me? I'm "Mr Original." I'd keep it Citron. The factory code is BLVC 73. Paint codes include: ICI 8653; PPG 44947; Dupont 43276; Glasso Rinshed Mason 6669.. Hope this helps!
BodyPaint Code You were referred to me as someone whom could possibly help with a paint code question. I am restoring a 67 MGB and want to paint it Tartan Red. I've gotten paint code charts on the internet for DuPont (that's the paint my body shop uses). According to the chart Tartan Red is Dupont # 8204. I went to the Dupont automotive paint distributor yesterday to get a "sampling" of the paint and they said that # 8204 did not come up in the computer. Their Tartan Red for British Leyland was 8402. I am confused. I want to paint the car the right color but I am not sure of the info I have. Can you direct me?

Thanks for your help,
Gaye Hanley

GAYE!

It would appear that there is a typo in the information that you have. I would trust that the paint supplier will provide the correct color. Remember that no two "Tartan Red" MGBs are the same (any more). The vagaries of on-site mixing, even with "computer controlled mixing" will result in different colors, let alone the temperature of the spray booth, humidity, etc. Hope everything works out well for you!
BodyHood CableHi John:

The cable to open the hood of my '77 MGB broke. Any idea how to get the hood open?

Thank You
Clarke

CLARKE!

The bonnet cable pulls the release lever to the left -- so, look through the air grille with a BRIGHT LIGHT to try to see this lever. Then, with a long screwdriver or shaft, attempt to move the lever to the left (RIGHT as you view it!) Good luck!

While you are having some difficulty with this, imagine the problem of a TR6 owner whose cable has broken. His problem is truly horrid as the bonnet opens from the back and the cable and latch are totally hidden from view!
BodyBumpers, Front Grille, Chrome Pieces, Tubes, TiresJohn,

Thanks for answering my Questions about restoring my existing Wire Wheels. I have a few more questions and would greatly appreciate your response.

1. Who do you recommend purchasing after market bumpers from. Scarborough Faire, Moss or Victoria British? I have been told Scarborough Faire has the most original looking bumpers on the market. Moss told me they just re-tooled their bumpers for a better fit. Do you have a preference for fit and finish?

2. Who do you recommend purchasing the front grille from? Moss or Victoria British. Do you have a preference for fit and finish?

3. Of the three parts suppliers do you have a preference on all the chrome pieces. Vents, badges ..etc.

4. I called British Wire Wheel and they told me about tubeless sealing on certain wire wheels. Do you recommend tubeless sealing or sticking with tubes?

5. Can you give me a recommendation on tires. Which do you like better and are these the right size for the car 165xSR-15 Michelin XZX or Dunlop SP20?

Thank you

Cliff

CLIFF!

I do have over 800 messages in my in box, if you can believe that!

We do most of our purchasing from Moss and our generally satisfied with their parts, but the chrome parts from any source are problemsome.

Let me suggest this: get your old bumpers replated -- this will cost you about $400 but the job will be REALLY good and MUCH better than the new units. Buy the repro overriders if the costs of re-chroming are exorbitant.

The same goes for the grille -- especially the grille!! The new grilles are not formed properly so the body MUST be fitted to the grille, not the other way around.

The smaller parts are more easily purchased new rather than chromed, but the original parts are ALWAYS of better quality.

The windscreen frame must be rechromed, as new parts are not available.

Purchase your wire wheels from British Wire Wheel in Santa Cruz, CA -- they sell the Dayton wire wheels which are best in the trade. I prefer the Michelin XZX, but those are not easily available.

Remember that the larger suppliers are: Moss, Victoria, Scarborough Faire; and in England, Brown & Gammons in Baldock; Moss Darlington in Durham; and in Belgium (?) is Anglo parts.

Hope this helps!
BodyTrunk LockHello John,

I really enjoy your MG web pages. I have a technical question. The trunck lock on my 74 MGB roadster is broken. The botton pushes in but there is no spring back and the latch doesn't relaease. How do I get into the trunk to remove/repair it?

Thanks in advance,

Kevin Gervais

KEVIN!

You may find the first option, as disgusting as it seems, to be the easier. Just DRILL out the center of the pushbutton -- then by wrenching the guts of the pushbutton completely out, you can gain access to the lever in the latch. The second operation requires a lot of finesse.

Make a tool of 3/8" square stock in the shape of a "U". One upright is about four inches, the other upright about three feet. The base of the "U" is the distance between the left reverse light and the latch. Remove the left reverse light, and work this tool into place. Fiddle for two minutes or four hours, trying to press the latch lever rearwards. It's helpful to have another MGB around the continue to look at and practice on (another MGB whose trunk opens normally, of course).

Our most difficult opening job was Rita's MGB -- she had no less than 20 pairs of shoes in the trunk!
BodySheet-metal FabricationJohn -

I am seeking some advice regarding sheet-metal fabrication to replace some rusted panels on my 1949 YT. I have purchased new sills from NTG in England, but the resemblance between those and the originals is not totally clear to me. At best, they don't quite replace all the material that needs repair. From your Website, under "clubs and other links, for the Y type I found the name of Jerry Keller, 14 Birchwood Road, Denville, NJ 07834. I wrote (snail-mail) to Mr Keller but my letter was returned "07834, NOT DELIVERABLE AS ADDRESSED, UNABLE TO FORWARD".

While I've done a fair amount of welding on the B (having recently reconstructed a badly rusted '65 pull-handle shell) the YT is a whole new kettle of fish. I am committed to doing this work myself, even if it means learning how to fabricate compound curves. So far it appears the problems are in the sill areas and below the spare wheel opening - the wings and running boards appear to be in excellent condition - although I've only removed those on the left side. Time is not a factor and I am only interested in learning to do it correctly.

Two questions:

1.) Do you know of a newer address for Jerry Keller?

2.) Do you have some other advice or suggestions?

I can do this on my own - and if necessary, I can figure out how to do it without advice, but it seems a shame to re-invent the wheel. If somebody out there has the experience and advice, I'd be happy to pay for it. (It's a case of "Give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach him how to fish and he eats for a lifetime.") So far I've joined the Y type registry of the MGCC and the NEMGTR and I'm joining the Octagon Car Club. In all cases, I have asked for the same advice. I have also asked for advice on the MG list (mgs@autox.team.net). It seems nobody has had this experience.

You've always been so helpful - many thanks for any advice you can give me.

Allen Bachelder

ALLEN!

Contact Ron Embling in Otego, New York, for some direction; also, contact Hank Rippert (fairwind@bellsouth.net) to find a newer address for Jerry Keller. The problem is not so much Y but (I know you think I'm going to say Y NOT, but I won't) metal over wood body work.

We just happen to have a YT in the shop right now. If you want some digital pix, I can send them.

Good luck, Allen!
BodyRadiator Grill ShellI am searching for a radiator grill shell for a 1952 MGTD. Do you have one or know of someone who may?

Thank you,

Hubert Talley

Hubert!

Try Gerry at Abingdon Spares; Skip at Shadetree Motors; Mick Conde at Keystone Classic Cars in Jeanette, PA. Also, visit www.mgcars.org.uk.

Hope this helps!
BodyPaint SuppliersJohn,

Thanks again to you and your staff for the technical seminar. What a great winter break--some MG'ing/ good comraderie. What more could you ask for in February!

I talked to Lisa about what I had found in the area of painting systems and she suggested I cover you with the specifics for you files...

It started when I was told the New Racing Green (BLVC25) was not available in base coat/clear coat by the major US manufacturers. That got me looking around since my B was previously painted New Racing Green and I wanted to repeat the color. I found ICI--can't remember if it's Imperial Chemical Industries or Imperial Coating Industries, but was told that they are a British firm and that they were the paint supplier to MG as well as most other British automotive manufactures. They had what I was looking for and told me they could provide virtually any color used by MG.

Their "North American Headquarters" is located in Westlake, Ohio, a Cleveland suburb and their customer service rep is Jim Skal at 1-800-647-6050. The closest distributor to me and probably you also is an outfit called Single Source in Troy, Michigan. Their technical man is named Brian and he can be reached at (248)616-3403.

Don't know if this is new to you but thought you'd want to know if it is.

Thanks again.
Ted Barron

TED!

Thanks VERY MUCH for this information!
BodyWelding U.M. When I replace the rocker panes on my 58 MGA, can I get away with running a beaded weld along the top of the sill/rocker assy instead of using spot welds? I am having a tough time finding a spot welder to economically rent or purchase.
Thanks
John Bries
P.S. Your website is great!

John!

Instead of running a bead all along the top of that rocker panel or sill, try this: drill a series of 1/4" holes through the rocker panel, just below the top edge. Now, weld up the inside of these holes with your MIG / TIG / gas welder. Grind off the excess. Now the weld is just as a pot weld, very strong, and the draught excluder will fit. BTW: Todd Clarke of Clarke Spares in Doylestown, PA, is having NEW, REAL, ORIGINAL style draught excluder produced. Contact him for the good stuff. No one else's really fits well.
Hope this helps!
BodyWiper MotorsJohn
I continue to restore my 1935 MG PA. There is always something more to do. Do you restore wiper motors for this vintage car?
John Schmale
Mahomet, Illinois

John! I have been successful in rebuilding the wiper motors. I have yet to wind an armature, but that will probably occur this winter, as I have several which need that degree of repair. Send yours up and I'll take a
look at it.
BodyHardtop Seals Hello, John. Thank you in advance for taking the time to respond to my inquiry. I am at the end stage of the restoration of a 1971 MGB roadster. I have located, restored, and painted an original Works fiberglass hardtop as a part of this restoration. I have searched far and
wide for a source for the following seals for the hardtop:
(i) the rubber header rail seal; (ii) the rubber seal between the hardtop and the rear deck of the car; and (iii) the seals between the hardtop and the windows of the car.
Everyone seems to have the header rail. No one seems to have the other two. Any ideas or suggestions? Perhaps you have one for sale? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Greg Chait Atlanta, Georgia

Greg! The only place I can imagine would be through Brown and Gammons in Baldock, Herts, England. They advertise heavily in the British Magazines, and I've found that they have many, many items not available here. Perhaps they have a website? Don't know. Find them through www.mgcars.org.uk. Hope this little bit helps.
BodyFloorboardsjohn,
could you provide me with the material specifications for mga floorboards?
thanks. Rick Gregg

RICK!

My experience with MGA and T type floorboards is that they are marine plywood with either five or seven plies. It's been a long time since I've tried to cut any -- I buy them from Moss, now, as the new ones come sized correctly, they look nice, and they're chamfered and routed where they
should be.
BodyRemoving BodyJohn
I'm preparing to remove the body of my 57 MGA Coupe to do a frame off restoration. I have no idea what wait I'm looking at lifting and supporting. Can you give me a ballpark estimate of the weight?
> Also, I have a single car garage that I'm doing the restoration. I will need the body to be supported by saw horses that will allow the chassis to move out from under the supported body and back again for storage. What height clearence do I need for the saw horses?

Your help will be appreciated. Thanks
Marty Schlining

Marty!

While we have four MGAs at the shop in various stages of disassembly, including one coup?©, none of the chassis are sans body right now. Let me "guess" at the clearance you'll need -- three feet on the underside of the
saw horses. We support MGA bodies all the time with saw horses, so there's no problem here. You'll need six healthy, virile men to left the body off the chassis -- all wearing gloves to protect their hands from the sharp
edges.

Let me make a couple of comments about your restoration: #1, order ALL the parts that you figure you're going to need RIGHT NOW; #2, REMOVE ONE PART AT A TIME -- then clean it, wash it, buff it, rework it, do whatever you're going to do to it, ensure that it's gaskets and fixing bolts etc are with it, and wrap it up in clear plastic, place it on the shelf, and ONLY THEN, remove another part; #3 work around the body until it is stripped to just the body shell; #4 weld the body while it's on YOUR frame; #5 remove the body and send it off to the body shop for slicking/painting; #6 build up the chassis;#7 build up the body when it returns -- wiring, heater box,wiper assy, dash, etc; #8 refit the body to the chassis; #9 do your final assembly.

Marty, this is the best advice I can give you on this MGA. One part at a time. I've been at this for thirty years; I've seen a lot of home restorations started (and many fewer completed). Time is the most precious commodity -- don't waste it trying to remember where things go. Rebuild
one part at a time.

Hope this helps!
BodyMGB Chassis Measurement SpecsJohn
Have 1971/2 MG BGT with bent front chassis members following an accident. Need complete chassis measurement specs for CarBench chassis straightening mahine. Car's chassis number is GHD 5260957G. Can you help?
Neville


NEVILLE!

I do have a set of measurements for the MGB, but cannot send them easily on this machine (don't know how), but would be willing to fax them to you. Please Email me your FAX # and I'll send out what I can find. However, I
have technical seminars starting next week Wednesday and those last for three weeks -- it's combat time for me and I won't have an extra minute. But, if you send the number, I'll try to get it out to you on Monday.
Hope this helps!
BodyColorCan you tell me the correct color of green for a 1973 mgb. I am going to
paint it usun enamel.thank you, Bill Metcalf

Bill! I believe your car is Mallard Green, which has some blue in it.
This was the official green for 1973. The codes I have are BLVC 22
(factory code); Ditzler 44638; Dupont 30014; Rinshed Mason BM 169D. Hope
this helps!
BodyPaint Codei wish to paint my 70 mbg blue royal, this is a correct color for my 70
mgb
however, the car is currently british racing green .
since i have nothig for my paint shop to match, i attempted to use the
ditz
and rm
numbers as listed in moss motors catalog.
the paint shop says that the colors are for a laquer paint that has been
discontinued for use in california.
the touch up paint listed in moss's catalog is no longer available, and
none
of the
paint suppliers have chips that old to match.
perhaps you know of a california legal paint formula, or where i might
source
a
paint chip??
factory code is bu38....rm#bm039....ditz#....12635....ault & wilborg#
23322/28603
and ici #5186
i browsed the info on university motor's web page and the only add'l info
is
"use 14475" next to the ditz#
i need a sample soon to select a complementing shade of leather for the
trim
shop to start working on my interior.
i appreciate any help you may be able to offer
my name is dennis lemmings and i am using my neighbors computor ( i
havent
forced myself to purchase one yet)

Dear Mr Snake

Even though your car was "totally" painted, there are sections, notably
under the dash, that were not covered with the BRG. You have limited
choices here. The first is less expensive: find a paint shop that will go
the distance for you in finding the correct code. I know that PPG, the
parent of Ditzler, has a color library in Detroit or Cleveland, and they
will give you an "eye match" from your old color to a modern mix. I expect
other manufacturers can provide the same service. The second is to have
someone outside California get the color mixed, spray it onto a panel, and
send that panel to you. Then your paint shop can match a modern mix to the
older lacquer color.
If you wish to take the second path, I'd be happy to get the panel sprayed
-- but by the time we're done, I expect that it will cost you about $75.
Let me know.

Your unsigned letter using no capitals was difficult to read.
BodyBody ShopJohn:

As much as I would like to load my '72 MGB on a flatbed and have it
driven to Grand Rapids to have the true experts perform some much needed
body work, at the present time, my wife simply will not allow it.

I am wondering if you have any knowledge of a reputable body shop in
central Illinois or the St. Louis, Missouri area which has experience (and
a good reputation) for restoration work on MGs.

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can offer.

Brett K. Gorman

Brett!

Contact John Mangles who operates a body shop in the greater St Louis
area. He's known throughout the MG clubs there.
BodySebring Lightweight Body KitJohn,
I'm looking for a Sebring Lightweight body kit. I know that I have seen
them
in magazine articles. I have a '68 B-GT that would be perfect for this.
Can
you help me locate one of these kits?

Thanks in advance for the help,
Mark L. Smith

Mark!

I am sorry to be of no help whatsoever. You might contact the
individual magazines: British Car; British Marque Car Club News; MG
Magazine; in this country -- or try MG World, MG Enthusiast, Enjoying MG, or
Safety Fast from England.

You might try Tim Handy, MG Matters, Goode, Virginia (near
Lynchburg) -- he successfully campaigns his works MGB.
BodyWipersHi John:

I have another very basic TD questions? My question concerns the number
of wiper blades that should appear on my 1951 (10/10/51) MGTD Mk II. The
British owner of my local English Classic garage says that I am suppose
to have THREE (3) wiper blades, not two as it has now. I have looked
through my meager collection of books on T Series MGs and cannot find a
photo showing three blades. But the claim seems to have some merit.

My wiper motor is in the middle of the windshield, as portrayed on the
cover of "The Compete MGTD Restoration Manual" by Horst Schach. The arm
that extends from the motor to the connecting bar, that sweeps the left
and right wiper blades, has a holder that is similar to the left and
right arms and seems might accommodate a center blade. Is there suppose
to be a center blade? I would like my car to be as original as possible.

In addition to this question, do you know of any books primarily on the
Mk II (TD/C) model?

Stu Keen

STU!
The British owner of your local classic English shop is mistaken. The
centre placed wiper motor still carried two wipers, just as the RH placed
motor. However, it is possible, and some prefer, to fit three blades on
the two speed motor (too slow, or too fast!).
BodyCaptive NutsI need three captive nuts for the safety catch on an aluminum MGB hood.
The
nuts insert into the receptacles on the hood and are twisted 90 degrees to
be retained for mounting the safety catch. Please advise if you can
supply
them or know of anyone who can.

Thank you,

R. G. Watson

Mr Watson!

I would try to find a shop who can fit "Riv-nuts". We use these to
repair the fixing points on the body which accept the fixing bolts for the
top bows on the MGA and MGB. Call around to some body shops. The ones we
use are 1/4-28, but I'm certain you can find them in 10-32, also.
BodyColorsJohn,

I am doing some minor home restoration of my "67 B-GT. I am repainting
the "trunk" space under the rear deck. As I sanded off some of the flat
black paint that I had applied in the '70s, I discovered a yellow
(fan/pulley yellow) paint over the sandy beige/white base/red primer
layers of paint. Was the factory color the yellow paint that I am
seeing? My memory of the color has faded. 🙂

Thanks for you help
Rick

RICK!

I understand that your 1969 MGB is Sandy Beige. I've seen this
colour only several times. It's very rare!

I am certain that the factory did not paint a bright yellow in the
spare tire area! The bodies were primed and painted at Pressed Steel and
delivered to Abingdon with doors, boot, bonnet, and the tops fitted. The
only place I know to find the "School Bus Yellow" yellow, is on the fan and
pulley.

Wish I could offer you more!

SAFETY FAST!
BodyFender Welting JOHN, WE ARE HOPING TO ONCE AGAIN JOIN YOU AT THE SUMMER PARTY. WE ARE RESTORING MY MGA AND CAN NOT LOCATE TAN FENDER WELTING. I KNOW YOU WILL KNOW SO IF YOU HAVE TIME COULD YOU PLEASE EMAIL ME THE INFO.
THANKS AGAIN JUDY JOHNSON

Judy! I am doing my best at catching up with a LOT!! of old Email. The original fender welting on the MGA has a "T" cross section. I like the Volkswagen black T fender welting myself -- I believe it looks better in almost all color combinations than the original gray stuff. Any other colors?
Well, try a VW supplier. Of course, you can always have fender welting made, but then it is a rolled type (folding material over a piece of small diameter hose or plastic filament).

If you've already found something, let me know what do happened upon so the next time someone asks it won't take so long to answer!

SAFETY FAST!
BodyRemoving Body1960 MGA-fenders off, doors off, etc and ready to lift body off. I plan

on hoisting off, lifting at four points, but the box beams under the
doors are seriously rusted out and I don't trust them for strength and
don't want the body to clamshell on me. I will brace across the
doorways at top solidly. Door posts are in very good shape.


Any thoughts about this?

thanks John

George Stringe

GEORGE!

Remove the front and rear cockpit surround. The exposed holes
are large enough for 5/16 threaded rod. Cut two pieces of electrical
conduit or water pipe, just long enough to fit across the cockpit, front to
rear. Run the threaded rod from the back, through the pipe, and secure it
on both ends with nuts (under the dash and under the rear "shelf"). Use
washers to achieve a good fit so you don't pull the cowl or rear! Now the
car is really stiff and you can lift it away without damaging the sills any
further.

BUT WAIT!

Achieving a good fit on the MGA body is a quest rarely
completed. DO NOT REMOVE the body from the frame until you have finished
all the welding that you can while the body lies undisturbed. Remember, the
doors do not lie! All fitting comes from the doors (and the front door
posts). Weld in the repair sections for the post, the inner sill, the outer
sill -- as much as possible BEFORE removing the body from the frame. After
the body is off, complete the welding on the inside.
BodyHeritage Body ShellsMr. Twist
Does the fact that your company has achieved British Motor Heritage Approval mean that Heritage body shells are available thru your company?
George Procyshyn
Cleveland, Ohio

University Motors Ltd of Ada, Michigan, USA are proud to announce that they have achieved British Motor Heritage Approval. They are now one of two approved workshops in the United States and one of about a half dozen who are authorised to display the MG logo in North America.

GEORGE!

There are two types of Heritage Approved Specialists -- one type (me) can use the logos; the other type (Moss, Victoria, Roadster Factory) can purchase Heritage and Rover parts at a great discount. We are a service shop and have no mail order parts -- we do sell parts from the front counter. You know that a body shell rebuild requires a fantastic amount of work!

Good Luck! SAFETY FAST!
BodyGluing TopHi:
I am going to put a new top on my 1975 MGB this coming week end and in the
instructions it says to glue the top to the front bow. Could you tell me
what type of glue to use? Thank you.

Dennis Vallier

Dennis! We use two types of glue in the shop: 08080 and 08083, both made
by 3M. The 08080 is the better glue, as if, by some reason, you make an
error, you can peel the top away from the top bow. The 08083 is dynamite
stuff that demands that you are right the FIRST time. Use the 08080. It's
about $20 for a big can.

BTW, be certain to shake out all the old rivets from the hole on the
left (right?) side of the top bow or you'll hear those things rattling
around forever!

Hope this helps!
BodyLocationHey John:
Thank you for the fast reply and for the tip about the rivets. I'll be
sure
to get the 08080 glue because I'm not that good at getting it right the
first
time. I just put in a new windshield (5 tries) but I did get finally.
Thanks again!

PS - we are from the Forrest Hills area but didn't own a MG when we lived
there, we are now all the way down south in Franklin, TN (by Nashville)

Dennis Vallier Dennis!

Well, we live on Buttrick, just three houses north of 28th Street.
Not the 28th you know and love, but the rural one with houses and barns.
Our kids go to Thornapple Elementary. The shop is on Fulton, just a mile
west of Amway. Stop by if you come back up this way!
BodyColorsTo whome it may concern~~~~

I was just wondering what are the original colors for a 79 MGB..... I am
15
years old and about to be 16 & I am helping restore an MGB which will be
my
car. I can't decide on what color the car should be , but I want it to be
an
original. I know that some of the original colors for a 79 are : Pageant
Blue
, Brookladns Green , Carmine Red , Vermillion Red , Inca Yellow , Russet
Brown , Leyland White , and Black. I was just wondering if there are any
other original colors that I can look into before I make a decision.
Please
write me back soon to let me know.

Amalie

AMALIE!

You've got the colors down, alright. That Carmine Red is a slight
derivation from Damask Red, a maroon, used from 1954! If you want a good
looking engine compartment, my personal favorite is Inca -- it makes the
underside and underbonnet areas "electric." British Racing Green is about
as specific as saying "tree" but that Brooklands Green is a good looking
green. Russet Brown is, well, an "earth" color. Leyland White is as
brilliant as a refrigerator!

I tell people who are considering a color change to go out to a car
lot -- drive around, look at the cars, and choose a modern, 1999 color.
After all, it's YOUR car -- you can paint it what you want -- purple with
pink pokadots if that's your fantasy. Some say, "You MUST keep it a factory
color." Some, myself, included, only urge you to do so. But remember this,
ANY COLOR CHANGE is a Herculean task!! If you do not completely strip and
repaint the underbonnet area, then the car will always look AWFUL when the
bonnet is up!

If you need assistance with color codes, etc, write back.
BodyColor Codescan you give me the ORIGINAL color codes for the 79 MGBs??? Thank
you~~~Amalie

Amalie!

Here goes:

I couldn't easily print the list here, so I've sent it as an
attachment in Microsoft Word. I hope you can receive and read that format!
Plan to spend nearly $500 on gaskets, motifs, grilles, etc to make the car
look NEW after the paint job. Moss Motors has an excellent supply of the
parts you'll need.
BodyColor Codes when I ask you for the original color cods for the 79 MGBs you gave me
something to download but for some reson I can't get into it , but I still
want to know the original colors so can you send them to me a different
way??? Thank you.

Amalie

BLACK BLVC 90
RUSSET BROWN BLVC 205
PAGEANT BLUE BLVC 224
BROOKLANDS GREEN BLVC 169
CARMINE RED BLVC 209
LEYLAND WHITE BLVC 243
INCA YELLOW BLVC 207
BodyQuestion Mr. Twist,

I first read of you in the MG DYI book (Lindsay Porter?) from several
years
ago. I wonder if you could provide some guidance to me on the appropriate
paint for a '72 MGB-GT. Moss calls for Green Mallard whereas Teglerizer
indicates British Racing Green (GN25) may be used. My preference is to
use
a BRG but I want to be historically accurate. This car is not intended to
be a concours car but rather a regular driver. Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Tony McKinney



Anthony A. McKinney

Tony!

A couple of notes about the colours: British Racing Green is like
the word "tree." A tree is not a bush, but there are MANY kinds of trees.
So it is with British Racing Green. There were many greens used throughout
MG production, but Mallard Green is the proper green for your 1972 MGB. My
wife's research shows a BLVC 22 code. That New Racing Green is very dark
and very nice, but it's not correct. It's your car! Paint it the colour
you want.
Mallard has a lot of blue in it -- it's a very nice colour!

John

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
BodyCanvas top Mr. Twist,

I would like to install a canvas top on my 1968 MBG. I notice in the Moss
catalog the they are available for 1971 - 1980 only. What would I have to
do
to install one on my car?

What do you think of the canvas tops?

I appreciate your help.

Sincerely,
Wilburt Easom

Wilburt!

My computer was down for a while, and I got sooooo far behind.
Perhaps this will help at this late date.

There are three types of soft top frames -- all of which will fit
all MGBs from 1962 -1980. There is the stow-away variety which separates
in the middle, stows in the boot, and allows for a great amount of room in
the cockpit. There is the scissors or knee action, designed by a sadist,
which was fitted from about 1964 - 1969. Then, there is the wonderful
Michelotti (incorrectly, but commonly pronounced Mich a lotty -- instead of
the correct Italian Mick a lotty) which will accept the zip out top.

I prefer the vinyl tops, but those fabric tops certainly look nice!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
Body1977 MGB - converting to chrome bumper Hi, I have a 77 MGB tourer, and was wondering if you knew where to ge the suspension conversion kit to take my 77 rubber bumper and convert it to a chrome bumper MG, I can't find anywhere that has it.
Mike Smith

Mike!

You wrote last April so you've probably already received answers and have decided on a course of action. My advice, at long last, is to leave the rubber bumpers on your car. If you want a chrome bumpered car, buy one -- don't try to make one! I did change a rubber bumpered car to a chrome bumpered one -- once. I wouldn't do it again!
BodyMGA Side Curtain RubberHi John,
I hope you have had a nice holiday season and the very best to you for the New Year. Do you know of a source where I can buy the rubber to replace around my side curtains of my MGA?
Thanks,
Stan

Stan!

You have asked the "eternal" question. That is, I've had this question for twenty years and still don't have a pat answer. There are several rubber extrusion firms which make a host of differently sized and shaped cross sections. I have a catalogue at the shop, but I cannot remember the name of the firm (it's in MN or WI). If you'll call during tech time (1-2pm EST M-F) next week, I'll try to answer this for you. This week I'm on vacation in North Carolina.

Happy New Year

John


maybe Metro Moulded Products????


BodyTemplate for 1967 MGB Carpet John,
Do you have any idea where I could possibly get a "life size"
template for cutting carpet to fit a 1967 MGB. I have a
body that has no
carpet currently in it. So removing the old carpet and
using it as a
template is not an option.

I also want to carpet the car in a non-traditional color (some shade
of blue) so therefore ordering carpets from MOSS or LBC is out. The
special
order dealers I have checked to order custom made carpets
are definitely
out
of my financial league.

I can get the carpeting material locally. However, I would have to
attempt to cut via hit and miss. I have
seen .jpegs of templates online, but have no idea how large
I would have
to
blow these pictures up to get a true representation of what
size each
piece
should be.
Any ideas??????
sandy

Sandy!
This is my suggestion. Use very thick paper, or
better, cardboard,
and make templates. You don't need one big chunk of
cardboard -- just keep
taping one piece to another. Then you'll have a suitable
template from
which you can cut your carpet. The hot setup would be to
trim the carpeting
so it "fits like a glove" and then have the edges bound. Automotive
upholstery shops are often surprisingly inexpensive for such work.
We make templates from cardboard for wood floor
boards for the MGBs,
so this is a "proven" method!

John

John:
Woohoo got it!!! I am cooking with bacon grease now.... You are a
scholar and a gentleman...thanks so much. I don't plan to install the
carpet until this spring, but getting them at least cut and fitted is a
worthwhile winter project.
By the way....do you do body work??? I am hoping around April
timeframe to be able to afford to have some serious rust removal /
restoration /parts replacement done on the car. The sills on both sides
are shot, those support bars that hold the battery boxes in place ( I looked
underneath the car and saw that a few bars have completely rusted
through)
are pitiful if not altogether gone and the floor boards are like Chinese
rice paper. The instrument fascia (is bent in places and I swear looks
crooked to me) and dash gauges are alas...oh well...really just kinda
sad
looking. And my blue MG is very hard to start at this point....

I know you do restorations....but I don't want to bring the car
back to absolute mint condition (oh that I could afford the expense),
but
to
a reasonably good looking; and a definitely safe operating level.
Welding
is
not my forte (a skill I hope to earn at some point) but the car does
need
body work done to it.

No sense in me trying to pretty up the interior if the body isn't
sound. Aside from a full restoration as listed on your site; could you
do
the minor body work (well minor in my eyes) I require??? Since I am
already begging.....one more question....how about paint jobs????? Once
I
have you guys get the body "de-rusted" could you then paint the car at
your
facility????


ok, I have probably used my wooden nickel worth of question...

thanks for the quick response....away I go to find material to make
carpet
templates...

sandy


Sandy!

We do body work! Generally, welding each side of the car -- that
is
the bottom of the front fenders, the bottom of the rear fenders, the sill,
the vertical plate, the castle section, and some of the inner frame -- all
for about $1000 per side.

We can paint the car, too, but we'll need to see it to really give
you the options and the costs. There are two types of paint jobs --
complete and partial; there are two qualities of paint jobs -- "tape and
spray" and "disassembly." The prices range from about $500 to $8,000.

Are you still in the reserves? Is there a chance you'll get
called
up, or worse, called back?

John


John,
Long time no talk. Company bonus time approaches (mid April)....so
as I ponder how I can use the dough on my little MG...here's the next
question.

I just saw a 1971 MGB with a cabriolet top. It actually folded back
just like on modern car, manually but it folded right onto the car!!! It
was beautiful. The frame was totally concealed and the header rail was in
the same matching material. The lady had ordered it from England for about
$500, which I thought was great. Could one of these cabriolet tops be
placed (obviously with the correct modifications) onto a 67?

Still planning on bring the car up in April and have you guys do a
thorough check on it. I have been working a bit on getting her running a
little more reliable (cleaned up the float mechanism on one of the
carburetors last night) so I won't have tow the car up to you. Still can't
get her to idle less than 1500 rpm without her cutting off. However, she
does start up far more reliably so that's a start (the engine was totally
seized up 2 weeks ago when I started).

I have pretty much removed all the rotted carpeting, crappy seats,
torn panels, etc. The car is gutted. Hoping I can have you guys do all
the
"ugly" looking stuff I have found. I have stopped most of the engine oil
and fuel leaks, but still have a electrical problems (no interior lights
of
any sort, no heater blower, no horn, etc, etc) which I am no way versed
on
repairing.

Do you guys only do seminars in Feb? Nothing else during the year?
I love working on the car. I would love to do some more technical stuff,
but
lack the experience. If you decide on doing other seminars sign me
up!!!!.

Thanks for the concern about the whole war thing.... Nope "I'se
aint got ta go". A broken collar bone and shoulder have put on the "lame
and useless" list....woohoo!!! I have seen enough wars....Panama,
Saudi....tired of people I don't know shooting at me....I must honesty say
I
am glad I won't be the one worrying which person of a 360 man Maintenance
Company I might not bring home. I lost two soldiers in Saudi....never
again
do I want to write parents about such a thing... Let us hope the whole
world comes to it senses.

salutations to you and your crew....I always read your updates with great
interest.

sandy....the one handed typist...

Sandy!

It would probably be best for us to finish our "complete
lubrication" before you purchase a new cabriolet top. You know, our lube
will put everything into perspective for you -- we'll have a "complete" list
of all the faults and their approximate costs of repair.

We'll look forward to seeing you up here in April. Hope your bones
heal quickly!

John
BodyBadge BarsJohn,
Is there a good way to display club badges on a rubber bumper (1977-MGB)? Does anyone make a retrofit bar for the 'B"? Thanks, Al Webster

Al!

If you want a "chrome" badge bar, then you'll have to fit it horizontally through the fresh air opening in the bumper and fix it horizontally to the small shelf, just behind the fresh air grille.

Another option is to remove the front bumper, bend up a bar, and fix it (self tapping screws/bolts) to the back side of the front bumper.

I have seen some of these at meets, but if Moss doesn't carry them (www.mossmotors.com) I don't know what else you can do but create one!

John
BodyTips on Fitting on a New Top to Header PieceDo you have any tips on fitting a new top to the header piece. It seems like I have to strech it so tight that it will not close. Thanks Bill

Bill!

A couple of notes at this late date. Make sure you shake out all the rivets from the hole in the end of the header bar or you will forever listen to the metallic rush of those rivets every time you turn a corner.

Fit the top on the hottest day, at the hottest time during the day so the top has expanded a LOT.

Fit it snug at the centre of the header bar and work outwards. Use 3M 08083 glue.

Yes! You do have to fit it snugly!

If you have any further questions, drop me a note or give me a call during technical hour.

John
Body77 MGB Wiper Motor


John,

Thanks for all of your help to the British car community over the years.
I have a question regarding the windshield wipers. My 1977 MGB has
water getting in the car on the wiper cable. It drains down one side
onto my ankles, but worse yet it walks down the cable the other
direction and gets into the wiper motor. I took my motor apart
recently, and the whole inside is rusted. The brushes are shot, so I am
going to buy a new motor. I don't want to put it in, however, until I
stop the leaks. I have replaced all three of the gaskets on the wiper
transmissions, and sealed them with windshield sealer, but the leaks
persist. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dave
Dave!

Generally, the water getting into the car does not come from any
other place than the holes in the front fenders/cowl through which the
windscreen pillars pass. I would take some clear RTV Silicone Sealant and
squirt it under the gasket at the base of the windscreen pillar foot. Use a
liberal amount and wipe off the excess. Hope this helps!

John

BodyWiper Motor Question
John,Thanks for all of your help to the British car community over the years. I have a question regarding the windshield wipers. My 1977 MGB haswater getting in the car on the wiper cable. It drains down one sideonto my ankles, but worse yet it walks down the cable the otherdirection and gets into the wiper motor. I took my motor apartrecently, and the whole inside is rusted. The brushes are shot, so I amgoing to buy a new motor. I don't want to put it in, however, until Istop the leaks. I have replaced all three of the gaskets on the wipertransmissions, and sealed them with windshield sealer, but the leakspersist. Any ideas?
Thanks,Dave

Dave! Generally, the water getting into the car does not come from anyother place than the holes in the front fenders/cowl through which thewindscreen pillars pass. I would take some clear RTV Silicone Sealant andsquirt it under the gasket at the base of the windscreen pillar foot. Use aliberal amount and wipe off the excess. Hope this helps!
BodyMGB Removal of side vent windows to install new rubber seals Mr. Twist,
I am having difficulty removing left & right side vent windows to install
new rubber seals to replace perished ones. I can't seem to remove the
swivel piece of glass to properly fit and install new seals. Your advices
are appreciated.
Thank You,
Richard Coleman

Richard!

Richard!

It is necessary to remove the nut from the bottom of the "swivel
pin" which lies frustratingly, inaccessibly within the door. This nut is a
1/4-28 so you'll need a 7/16" socket -- but a warning -- you can easily
break off the stud -- then you're really up a creek. Unless that nut comes
loose very easily, I would -- you won't like this -- I would gut the door --
rear track, then front assembly. It's a real hassle getting it out, but you
won't break anything! Then, you can work carefully with the nut on the
bench -- AND, you can have the time to clean up the assembly. If you're
determined to do it in place, spray it down with WD-40 for a couple days
before wrenching on that nut! The nut is a nylock and hold a spring
sandwiched between itself and a plate on the underside of the door skin.

John

BodyPaint Installed wood pieces for restoration in TD?I am starting the restoration of a 1950 MGTD. I have purchased all new wood and am ready to install some of the pieces. I am wondering if the wood should be painted the same color as the body or leave it natural. Do you have any information to assist me???
thanks


I've had a number of T type tubs apart and the metal is certainly painted where it's exposed; it's primed everywhere; but the only paint on the wood is overspray. You can certainly make a good case, after reconstructing the wood frame, before fitting the metal, to THOROUGHLY coat the wood with a preservative!

John
BodyDoor Hinges
Hello John,
I have a 76 MGB and the door hinges have quiet alot of lift in them. Instead of purchasing new hinges would it be possible to bore out the hinge and install bushings and a new pin?

Best Regards,
Chris
Chris!

I've never repaired an MGB door hinge, but have done so -- in the manner you suggest -- with T types. I'm certain your method will work! BUT -- before removing the hinges from the body, drill two 1/8" holes -- oops, you guys can't do that anymore -- that's a 3mm hole -- one on the top of the hinge, one, on the diagonal, on the bottom -- so you can line the hinge up quickly and easily to it's original location. The hinge determines how the front of the door lines up with the front wing skin (side to side, not fore and aft).



John
BodyRubber Bumper Conversion
John,

Do you have or know where I can find a conversion kit to convert from rubber to chrome bumpers? I have a 1980 MGB that I would like to convert.

Thanks,

Jim Ray
Jim!

Take my advice to heart. If you want a chrome bumper MGB, buy one!! Converting your rubber bumper car IS possible, but it is SUCH a lot of work -- and, in the end, what do you have? A cobbled MG.

Offhand, these are some of the things you have to do: change the front fenders; change the rear fenders; change the front crossmember; shorten the steering; lower the body onto the rear axle - or - move the axle UP with spacers (a lot of sway!).

I wouldn't do it. BUT, if you insist, I can find some name of people who have done it who can give you some pointers -- but they may give you the same unsolicited advice first!

John

BodyPaint
do you know what kind of paint the MG came from factory( enamel or acrylic....)? thank george
George!

The earlier cars (T types) came with nitrocellulose lacquer. The MGAs had several finishes. The MGBs and Midgets came in enamel, but probably not acrylic, as that's a fairly newer process. What are you doing?

John
BodyPaintDear sirs,

as i am currently involved in a restauration project, i am looking for the original paints of "british racing green" and "lotus yellow". do you have any idea how i can get a hold of these or else solve this problem with a best possible result?

Thank you for any inspiration,

yours, truly,

I am completely unfamiliar withy Lotus Yellow. British Racing Green is as specific as the word "tree." There are hundreds of variations. What year and model are you trying to paint?

John
BodyRubber seal for 72B TrunkJohn:

I replaced the rubber seal on my 72' MGB trunk lid . Since then the trunk lid does not sit flush with the rest of the body. I have tried adjusting the hinges, lock etc without success.

Any suggesstion?

** Two suggestions: Wait for the seal to collapse; contact the seller (Moss? Victoria?) and ask them what to do.
BodyGT re-shellGood Day,

I found your address through British Motor Heritage web site and you are the closest to me.

I am located in Carleton Place Ontario, just outside of Ottawa. I am trying to get information on the cost, etc of a reshell for a 1969 MGB GT. I just purchased this car and wil be starting my project this fall and want to do a cost comparison of all bodywork, time to reshell if avail in North America.

Thanks


Mike
Mike!

While we are within the Heritage Network, our licence covers our workshop -- we do not purchase parts from Heritage. This is my suggestion -- call The Roadster Factory in Armagh, PA and see if they'll bring one in for you -- or, call Brown and Gammons, Baldock, Herts, and see what it will cost of sent one to you. Offhand, I would think that one would cost around $6,000 US, delivered near to your door.

Let me know what you find out and what you decide to do!

John

bodyMGA Aluminum BumperHi John. I have a question... Thanks to Larry Gillion, a friend. I was told that your are the master on MGA's that can help. My 1959 MGA has a motor#BP15GB122565, a body #66648 and gear box #1691. My question is," Why does my car have a aluminum front bumper"? It's all aluminum, no question about it! Can you Help? David

David!

The original MGA bumpers are not much different than the ones you purchase today from Moss -- steel, plated in copper, then nickel, then chrome. The bumpers you have -- the aluminium ones -- those were aftermarket bumpers made by Tasker Metal Products probably 30 years ago. Tasker continues to make grilles, etc. They might have some interesting information if you were to ask (I never have!).

Hope this helps!

John

bodyBolt PaintingHello John,



My question is: Do the bolts in the bonnet channels get painted (were they painted from the factory)? Also, was the engine number plate painted from factory?



Thanks,



Rich
Rich!

I'm certain that the answers are YES and YES. Contact Rick Ingram as he headed the concours judging for the NAMGBR.

John
bodyPlastic to ChromeHello, I was interested in buying a 1980 MGB, which of course has the plastic bumpers. However, I have read a few articles online which give directions on how to convert from plastic to chrome. I was wondering if your company would be able to provide such a service and for how much?

Thank you
The "rule" here is: If you want chrome bumpers, buy a chrome bumpered MGB! It is very expensive to change from rubber to chrome. I would think that it might cost around $2000 for a conversion -- that's just off the top of my head.

John
bodyPipingJohn,

Is there piping on both sides of the interior trim rails on an MGA?

Mark
Mark!

Top and bottom of the dash cockpit, crash rail; outsides only of the door cockpit rails; outsides only of the curved pieces at the rear of the doors; outside only of the strip across the back -- on the front side of this piece is fitted the pocket for the side curtains.

Hope this helps.

John
bodyRubber GlazingHi John,

I have a ‘65 MGB and the rubber glazing for the bottom of the window needs to be replaced. The part is no longer available. Any suggestions on a replacement and sealant?

Thanks,
Jeff

Jeff!
I assume you mean the glazing between the metal "U" and the door glass, within the doors? I know we've used the newer Moss MGA windscreen rubber (frame to glass). Be sure to support the glass with blocks of wood in your vise -- you need to hold the glass really fast so you can fit the metal "U" -- a large, soft hammer works well to urge the pieces together. If you get scared, just take the individual pieces to a glass shop.

John
bodyRubber to Chrome BumperHi John
1. Loved reading your tech accumulated tech tips. Noticed the "sage advice" about converting a rubber bumper MGB to the
chrome
bumpers, and why go through the hassle?

I have a one owner 1976 MGB with only 31,000 actual miles on it. Got it
from
the owner when he retired and moved back to England last fall. I also
have
two MGBGT-(1969 and a 1974) that I brought for parts and the overdrive.
the
74 has lots of rust but runs well and the chrome bumpers are perfect. My
question is that if I have both cars sitting in front of me and I pull
the
rubber bumpers off the 76 and try to swap them out for the 74 bumpers,
can
it be that easy or is there a lot of welding and making of parts
(brackets,
etc.)) I notice that Moss Motors has a kit out to do this but the
bumpers
alone are about two thousand dollars, if you include the grill. They did
tell me that I can buy just the templates and brackets.

And two. I want to lower the 76 at the same time to chrome bumpers
specs.
Can I swap out the 74 gt front and rear springs to lower the 76. The
tech
book says that the gt springs are about one inch shorter than the rubber
bumper car.

If you can give me a simple answer on the two questions,
Why does the 1974 gt handle so much better than the 76 rubber bumper car?

2. Of course you are absolutely right. Its just that I had this wonderful
condition 1976 with very little mileage drop into my hands from a neighbor
who purchased it new. Then from there I bought up two GT's from someone in
Charlottesville, and then you know how it goes from there. Middle age
crazy
I guess.

Will the front and rear sway bar (and mounting hardware) from the 74 GT
work
on the 76? Or should I simply bite the bullet and order it from Moss?

The more I think about chrome bumper swap the less it sounds like I ought
to
be doing it. I am going to change over the su's this weekend though and
pick up an after market exhaust system. And then call it quits. But rubber bumper cars don't seem to bring a lot so I guess I'll be stuck with it.
Bobby!

1. You have to decide what you want. Do you want a rubber bumper
MGB?
Do you want a chrome bumper MGB? You already have the rubber bumper car;
it's already paid for. You could clean up and sell the rubber bumper MGB
and purchase a chrome bumper one. That's not a bad option.

But, trying to turn a rubber bumper MGB into a chrome bumper MGB
is
folly!

If you want your 1976 MGB to handle as well as the BGT, then
simply
fit a large diameter anti-sway bar at the front! If you want your 1976
MGB
to run fast, remove the Stromberg and fit the dual carbs from one of the
older cars (along with the matching distributor).

Trying to lower the 76 MGB is very difficult -- it requires a
completely different front crossmember assembly. Fitting lowered springs
changes the steering geometry and the MGB will not, cannot, handle
properly.

You CAN make your 1976 MGB perform and handle very well!
Hope this little bit steers you in the right direction,


2. The sway bar components from the earlier chrome models will fit the rubber model -- but there is only an anti-sway bar in the front. Use the
thick one from the GT!

Good luck.

John
bodyIt only leaks when it rainsHi John,

I got your e-mail address off of the NAMGBR tech tips website. I am also
familiar with your company's well respected reputation.

I'm seeking some advise.

I have a 1970 MGB-GT that accumulates water in the passenger compartment
when I either wash the car (a little bit of puddling) or if I get caught
in
the rain, which thankfully isn't too often, but can create allot of
puddling depending on the severity and or length of the storm. Until
recently I've turned a blind eye to it as when this does happen I can
usually remove the rubber floor mat and mop up with a paper towel etc.
However, I just finished a sound proofing / insulation project and
wouldn't
you know the car was out in the parking lot at work when one of these
massive deluges that we've been getting recently passed through. As a
result the insulation acted like a sponge and, well you can guess the rest
(Capillary action at is best!). I had to take the seat and all the
carpeting etc out to dry this time. As I write this I have a small fan in
the car drying everything out as thoroughly as possible.

Where is this water coming from? I am aware of the problem with that drain
tube from the cowl vent. I clean that 2 -3 times a year and I see no sign
of the water entering from the vents.

The water traditionally puddles along the side of the transmission tunnel
down by the radio housing and directly across from that by the map pocket.

Any thoughts?
Tim
Tim!

It's pretty odd for a BGT to leak so badly. The technique is to lie
in the car and have someone spray the garden hose on the car (can you do
that in California yet?) and find the leak -- a flashlight helps!

The most common location would be around the rubber that holds the
windscreen in place. After that, I'd suspect the seal between the door and
the door opening.

Please let me know what you find!

John

bodyCar ButcheryI wonder if you can help me with something. I just purchased a 74 1/2 MGB which is in great overall condition, good runner, no rust, sills perfect etc. However, in tracking down a speedo/transmission problem I discovered that many years ago someone had cut through the frame cross cross member that runs across the centre underside of the car, evidently in a botched attempt to remove the transmission without removing the engine. The weld is terrible with gaps etc. The MGB specialist who serviced the car for many years was unaware of this as the joint was convered with undercoating. He indicated that he didn't think this was a structural problem given that it had been done a long time ago and nothing had shifted. I guess I am looking for a second opinion and was wondering if I should have a new piece properly welded in to replace the centre cut section. Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!

Kind regards,

Gord

Gord!

I've seen this butchery before. The frame is exceptionally durable, and if the rest of the car is rust free, then I doubt that the lack of good welds here will cause any dramatic loss of torsional rigidity. If someone could do a good job for a couple hundred bucks, I'd go for it. But I wouldn't suggest it was worth $500 to have fixed.

Hope this helps!

John
bodyPaint FormulaHello John, first, thanks for your web site, I have referenced it often. Next, I have just purchased some clipper blue piping for the TC I am rebuilding from Mr. Art Lewis. He told me that it matches the paint formula supplied by you. Could you share that formula with me? Thanks, Tom, Tom!

Matching paint is always difficult, and some colors are more difficult than others. Most paint suppliers have a spectrometer that can read the paint color, then they mix a paint to match.

The only codes I have for Clipper Blue are:

Ditzler DDL 12297
Rinished Mason BM 042

Ditzler has become PPG, and they have helpful people at their paint library who can cross the number above with a more modern paint. I do believe they're located in Cleveland.

I hope some of this helps!

John

bodyFender InstallationHi John,

I have a 1976 MGB, I am installing the original fender (wing) back into my car. I would like to know on rear end wings 3 long 5/16 bolt and couple of oval spacer washer if it goes between the scuttle and the wing. I tried to install one washer per bolt (5/16) but the alignment is out. Could you tell me how many oval washer required per each bolt and the location of the washer? And what is the gap between the door and the wing?
Thank you very much,
Jorge

Jorge,

The washers fitted between the body and the rear of the fender there at the scuttle are fitted "as required." If you are installing the original fender, then the fitment should prove easier than the fitting of a replacement fender! I would get all the bolts started, then work the fender, if possible, and by very little, to ensure that the gap from top to bottom is parallel. Be certain to attach the bottom of the fender to the bottom of the sill. Draw all the bolts snug, fit as many washers as required, as necessary, so that when you snug the bolts at the scuttle neither the scuttle nor the fender are bent inwards. Fill that gap with body putty to prevent leaking from the windscreen.

I hope this helps a bit!

John
bodyDoor SkinsHello, John...

I have replaced the door skins on my '65 MGB, now the door handles won't fit into the holes.

Can I cut the skins to make the original pull type handles work, or do I need to change to the push type door handles? I have the original internal door latch hardware.

Thanks,

John
John!

Cut the new doors. Measure twice, cut once!

John
bodyWiper BladesJohn,
I have a 1977 mgb with 23,000 original miles. I need to replace the wiper blades. How do you remove the inserts or blades?

Also, I have a noise coming from the water pump or pulley, the pulley has a wee bit of play...any suggestions?

thanks,
jim

Jim!

There is usually a tab which, when pressed away from the arm, allows the blade to slide off the end of the arm. Yours may have 20 years of corrosion (even if you cannot see it) making it difficult to break the blades free from the blades.

The water pump always has a very slight amount of freeplay. BUT, it should not sound as if it has gravel in it! Loosen the fan belt and run the engine without that belt in place. Does it make the same noise? If so, it's not the pump. If it doesn't then you know it's the water pump or the alternator.

Hope this helps.

John
bodyRust ProofingHi John

I just purchased a rust free 1971 MGB GT from California. I've imported the car to Canada near Toronto.

I've been thinking of getting the car rust proofed with an oil spray.

I've been looking for advice on whether I should do this or not. The car will be garaged most of the time and only driven on warm sunny days in the spring, summer and fall.

I've done a lot of research on the web and every where I turn your name comes up.

Thanks
Mike!

All cars have rust -- the questions are: 1) how much; and 2) how to keep it from spreading. I would, positively and absolutely rust proof your car with Waxoyl!

Remove those big foam pads from inside the ends of the rear fenders; remove the white interior panels to the rear of the rear windows; remove the interior panels from behind the doors; remove the splash panels under the front fenders behind the front wheel; remove the sill tread plate (if you do not have these, purchase some).

Before using the Waxoyl, use compressed air to blow out those areas you will be coating. Blow all around the inside of the rear wheel arch -- both from the back and from the front. Blow out all the crud that's collected at the bottom of the front fender. If you want, drill some one inch access holes in the top of the sill (that's why you purchased the sill tread pieces, to cover those holes) and blow out the inside of the rockers. Get that Waxoyl warmed up (in a bath of water on the grill or on the stove) and then spray it inside the rear fenders from the back and from the front (from behind the front doors); spray it into the sills; spray it into the cavity under the front fender.

Now this Waxoyl will drip and stink for a while -- so maybe it's better to do this towards the end of the season. Leave paper on the floor to catch the drippings. Expect the car to drip when you have it parked on hot, black, tarmac next summer.

The good news is that this waxy oil will inhibit the ability of the oxygen in the air to wreak havoc with the iron in the body. It will positively stop the advancement of rust and it will prohibit the formation of new rust. It's the most wonderful stuff since sliced bread! How much to use? It's sold in a container that looks like the old Imperial gallon -- you'll go through one of these at least.

Hope this helps!

John
bodyBadgesHey John!


Hey you are familiar with the radiator nose badge for the MGA, and the "reproduction" by Moss. Have you, or anyone you know, any of the originals (cast aluminum with some foundry's name embossed on the back) in good shape you might want to part with? Let me know please sir.

THanks!

Brian
Brian,

I've taken the new Moss badges, heated them up (carefully) and applied much more solder to ensure that the stud doesn't break free. Will this solve your problem. I just don't have any old ones.

John
bodyEngine Bay CleaningJohn,

I want to wash the engine in my 76 MGB but don't know what to cover up to keep protected from getting water in it. Could you assist me.

Thanks
Chris
Chris!

Ensure the engine is warm, leave it running, and put about 20 quarters into the quarter car wash machine. Spray the engine down with soapy water, then switch over to the degreaser, if it's available, then switch back to the soapy water. You can get one inch away from everything to get it really clean. Sometimes you'll flake off loose paint. The only component to avoid is the alternator. The distributor is going to get wet anyway. At some time, the engine will finally stumble and quit. Lay down the wand, turn the ignition OFF, and continue.

To restart the engine, remove the cap and wires, dry off the plugs, dry off the coil tower, and dry off the cap and wires. By the time you get home the engine will be running poorly again -- so remove the cap at home and allow it to ventilate.

I spray off engines all the time. I love a clean engine bay!

John
bodySide Curtains, TDDear Sir,
I have a 1951, MG-TD. I also have two questions relating to the MG that I hope you can answer.
First, what is the difference between side curtain frames for the two and three bow tops. My MG is a two bow top and I want to be sure I have the correct frames.
Second, I would like to fashion my own wind wings. Do you know where I might be able to locate the chrome hinges for such a project.
Any help you can give me will be appreciated.
Respectfully,
Fred
Fred,

I would like to explain the differences between the frames, but I can only tell you that if you have the wrong ones with the top that they don't fit. I know that isn't much help.

What IS important, is that you fit the side curtains BEFORE you fit the top! Position the curtains so that the front of the rear frame is parallel with the rear of the front frame. Place the fixing mounds in on the interior panels, assuring an overlap (front to rear). Then fit the top, positioning the fixing point behind the door so that the top fits down tightly against the top of the side curtains.

Look on eBay for a set of used windwings; look at JC Whitney out of Chicago for a similar item.

Hope this helps!

John
bodyFender (Wing) MirrorsHi. Can you help me?

I am having an ongoing argument with a fellow British car enthusiast about
fender mirrors. I remember hearing long long ago that the MGB GT and MGC
GT were required to have fender (wing) mirrors fitted because of a British
law that classified the GT as a small truck. According to that British
law, all GTs shipped to the USA had fender (wing) mirrors.

My friend says mirrors were a dealer option and there was no law governing
the placement of mirror locations.

I'm also doubting my memory, because I can no longer find that reference.
If you know that I am right, could you somehow quote me that law or
explain it to me? Thanks for your help.

Craig

Craig,

If there were rules in place for GTs in England, they would not have
been applied here.

I am just sure that the cars were shipped here without mirrors and
that they were dealer installed -- with instructions -- but dealer
installed. That means that some have minor variations as to the placement.

Those wing mirrors look cool but aren't worth a damn for seeing
what's behind you. I've always preferred a much larger mirror, or one
mounted on the door.

Ken Smith may be able to help with some of these originality
questions.

John
bodyOld RustproofingJohn:

I appreciate your insight on many fronts. I had a '63 "B" that I had to sell several years ago due to finances. I just bought an '80 MGB with 18,000 original miles. The car apparently was bought in Europe and used to travel on a vacation in 1980. Shipped back here. Owned by original owner until I bought it. It has a dried up wax-like material in the engine compartment-- rustproofing?? Any idea how I can remove it? The paint underneath still shines if you flake it off with a fingernail.
Ideas?


thanks,

Ken
Ken,

That may be aftermarket rustproofing -- but it sure sounds like the original Cosmoline (cosmolene) that the factory used to undercoat the cars to prepare them for their overseas shipment. The dealer used a HOT powerwasher to remove the goop when the cars arrived --- it was part of the pre-delivery preparation and inspection. At this age I doubt hot water would do the trick -- but you might try it -- gallon after gallon of really hot water. In the end, you may have to use some mineral spirits -- kerosene -- something like that. Don't get excited and scrape as you'll damage the finish underneath -- try a couple of solvents and this stuff should dissolve and become easy to remove. What it'll do to your garage floor, I don't know! What a mess! You know, you might even try the quarter car wash to remove it before or after a mineral spirit application.

Hope this helps.


John
bodyMudguard NutsWell maybe I'm there already. I have an 80 B and I can't seem to find the correct nuts for mudguard in front of the engine. I can't even find them in the Moss catalog or Victoria B.C. We use 10-32 nylock nuts.
bodyNew Vent Window SealJohn, spoke to you in the 80's when you rebuilt my carbs.
I still have the car and am rebuilding completely. Problem is the vent windows don't fit at the top when the new seal is installed. The bottom fits against the windscreen pillar, but the top is tight and pushes outwards. If the windshield were tilted slightly out it would fit but this is not the answer. There is no adjustment it seems. What am I doing wrong?
Many of the new seals are not the same size, same density, nor do some of them have the same cross section as the originals. What to do? You can bend the vent window frame towards the center of the car and away from the center. I know that sounds creepy (What will I break??) but you can, in fact, yank on them pretty hard to achieve a better fit. You'd think that the glass track would be distorted, but I've never encountered a problem.
bodyColor CodeCan you provide a color code along with the Mfg. for MGA Dove Grey . I am trying to buy touch-up paint and they said they could find any formula for Ditzler 32085. If you can shine any light on my delima I would be appreciative. Thanks again for you inspection on the MGA as it made my decision to purchase much simpler
Frank
You might try the PPG library in the greater Cleveland OH area. They can provide an "eye" match from the old code. On the other hand, since your car is probably not original, you might just drive it to your local paint shop and ask them to scan it and provide a color.
bodyPaint Code / Body NumberWhile trying to confirm the color code for my 1974 Midget (Citron color)
so I can purchase some touchup paint, I came across a plate screwed to the
front of the driver's side door frame (opposite from the black plate with
the manufacture date and VIN). This has the code GU N456861P. This is
NOT the VIN, nor is it the paint code that I have found online, which is
BLVC73. Do you know what that unknown code is, and also, did MG put a
paint code anywhere on the cars?
This is the Body Number: G for MG; U for United States; N for
roadster, a sequential number, and then P for Pressed Steel, the body
manufacturer. The closest I have on file here is GUN456334P carrying a VIN
of GAN 5UE 146 997 G.

But on to Citron. We call it "'snot yellow" because it's not green
and it's not yellow. Your best bet is to take it to the paint store and
have them scan the paint. Who knows if the paint is original -- and even
then, trying to get a good match is difficult. Better you should get paint
that matches your car. The paint code is NOT located on the car.
bodyMGB Interior Parint were the '77- '80 mgb engine, trunk, wheel well compartments and interior shell, doors, painted with the same high gloss as the exterior? The engine bay and boot (trunk) were certainly that same high gloss. The wheel wells were painted body color, along with the bottom and interior. I cannot imagine that the body manufacturer changed paints, but there certainly was no preparation of the interior. Further, I'm sure that the later cars (as yours) had an undercoating affixed to the undercarriage as well as the inner wheel arches. This undercoating was painted.

Most owners, when faced with a restoration, make their MGBs just a little nicer (well, they try to) than they were originally. I certainly would! So, I'd strip off the undercoating from the inner wheel wells, at least, so that they and the inner fenders had that same gloss as the exterior surface.
bodyDoor ReplacementI'm in the process of restoring my 1965 MGB. It is an early '65 with pull-handle doors. I've not been able to find replacement doors or door skins that will work with the original door pulls and lock sets. I currently have push-button door skins installed and the lock sets are too long to match up flush with the exterior door surface.

Any advice on where to find early ('62 - 64') door skins or replacement doors?
If it is the bottom of the door which is rusy, then a newer skin would work if you split it at the chrome strip line. Beyond that, I have to say I cannot be of much help. EBay is a potential source of used pieces. Hope this helps a little bit!
bodyLeaking Windscreen I recently browsed through your technical Q&A and recalled that when driving in the rain (a rare occasion), my left pant leg cuff gets wet and my passenger's right leg cuff gets wet.

I forgot to use welting when re-mounting the fenders two year ago, for I didn't notice any when disassembling the car.

Do I need to re-install the fenders to seal out the rain, or is there some other solution which would not require unbolting the fenders? Can I sneak in some brushable seam sealer, or is it best to do some dissasembly and use a roll putty type (black sticky stuff from a roll)?

It is possible to squeeze some filler between the fender and the body, but that probably isn't the problem. You can purchase white body caulk and force it between the body and the "T" welting on the fender. Use a softer plastic paddle for fear of damaging your paint. Also, push it in from the front -- at the front fender trough and the body.

But, I'll bet that the problem with the leaking is from the windscreen. Lift the rubber pads and fill the area under the pad with silicone sealant. Let that dry and test it.

Test the seal by spraying the garden hose against the suspect area and get your buddy to lie inside and watch (or the other way around). Now if you train a strong direct stream against any area of the car, it will leak. Just try to duplicate a heavy rain.
bodyMGB Top InstallationI want to replace to top on my MGB and have never replaced a top before. I've found one in the Victoria British catalogue. My question is, is there an instruction booklet on how to do this? Do you know where I could get one? When replacing the top, are there other parts I should buy as well? I don't know of an insruction manual for the soft top, but here are some hints.

For a really great fit, make sure the car and the top are REALLY warm. The best time of year is July and August! If you're doing this in your garage, get a space heater or salamander heater and blow into the car, heating the soft top from the inside out.

Drill out the rivets that hold the header seal and aluminium strip. Then shake those rivets out of the header bar through the hole provided in the end. If you don't the car will rattle at every corner!

Use 3M 08088 glue. Mark the center of the header bar and the windshield. Mark the center of the top material -- use chalk on the top. Attach the top at the back, glue the header rail and the contact area of the top material. Start at the middle and work outwards. Pull it REALLY tight. The top often has to go through several heat and cool cycles to rid it of wrinkles.

Use pop rivets again in the header seal strip -- or use sheet metal screws. Be sure to trim off the excess material. Always buy a new header seal and header seal strip.

Hope this helps a little bit -- I have to tell you that I have never installed an MGB top myself! One of the guys here in the shop has always fit them.
bodyIdentification PlatesA mechanic friend recently inherited a 1967 MGB-GT that he is
rehabilitating. He would appreciate information that would help him locate
all the identification tags in the engine compartment or replace the
missing
ones.
There is a tag on the engine: 18GB U H ...... between the second
and third spark plugs. There is a tag to the right of the radiator on the
right inner fender, screwed in place with the VIN eg GHD 3L ....... There
is a tag welded to the body on the left side of the rad (opposite of the VIN
tag) with the body number eg MGB......... Once you have the VIN, you can
write to British Motor Heritage at Gaydon in England and purchase a copy of
the production information.
bodyMG T Type Stripped WoodMy 53TD is coming alive for the 4th time in the 45 years I have owned it....but difficulty with the door locks....First, the screw holes in the wood are stripped out....Second..the machine screws that Moss sent (and they say they are correct) are not quite long enough to reach through the door panels, and I can't find longer screws with the correct threads.....then I'm not even sure that the locks will line up with the strikers....(which have the same worn out screw holes)...... What can I use to re-new these holes???............there's got to be a way !!!!!!!!!!

I have just installed the (New Red Leather) interior, and really don't want to have to take it off.....but I will if that is all I can do.....I could replace the captured nuts with nuts with SAE threads maybe..and use longer screws...??? I thought about "forcing" a screw with SAE threads.......but then I am afraid it will bind and that I will cause the nut to twist in it's capturing device.....
You could drill out the holes to 1/2" and fill it with wood glue and a dowel. This will give you a new hole. Make sure you put a stop on your drill so you don't hit your door. The screws are probably 10-32. If you tell us how long we could mail some to you.
bodyHints On Installing A Convertible TopMy question is , what is the method of installing the Header Rail to a new convertible top on a 1970 MGB ? I have found info on lowering and raising the top , but nothing on how to install the Header . How many and which fasteners should be secured , how much tension should the vinyl have when attaching the Header , should the Header be attached to the windshield ?

As you can see , I don’t have a clue on the installation procedures , and I worry about damaging the new top .

We have a few hints to help you. First off make sure you install it on a hot sunny day outside. That way there will be no chance of your top wrinkling. We also use a pop rivet gun instead of screws, there are about 16. make sure you shake out all of the pop rivets so they wont rattle around. Lastly you need to glue the top to the rear bar. Use 3M 08 088 glue.
bodyMidget Fenders Greetings from ENMGR in Cleveland, OH. Here is a Midget question: just how different are the fenders between the chrome bumer and rubber bumper cars? I have a '74 RWA Midget that needs a new left fender, and I have two beautiful '75 fenders for that side, I had planned to neatly section at the factory seam thru the headlamp opening. However, on my test fit I have discovered the upper frt inner corner does not align to my hood. Any insight on this?
I am not quite sure on how to help you. You can make anything work. It just may take a lot of time cutting and welding. The correct fenders would be a lot easier.


bodyChrome PlatingI have a small dent on my TD headlight.Who would you recommend taking it to for chrome plating?Graves Plating in Georgia. Find a full list of platers in Hemmings Motors News or on hemmings.com
bodyMG Bpdy PipingI am looking for a source for MG Red colored body piping. I am restoring a 1953 TD and I have been unable to find a vendor that has it in stock in any color other than black. I want to avoid having to paint the piping as it seems ill advised to paint such a material for obvious reasons.
If Moss does not have the right color in stock, you can have any automotive upholstery shop make some for you. They'll know what to do -- but you want to use as small of a rope down the center as possible (based on the gaps between your fenders), and you'll want a lip of at least four inches in places. It's easy to cut the excess away. Your upholstery shop can make up the fender piping or fender welting in any color that you want to match or accent the color on your TD.
bodyFactory Undercoat RemovalI appreciate your insight on many fronts. I had a '63 "B" that I had to sell several years ago due to finances. I just bought an '80 MGB with 18,000 original miles. The car apparently was bought in Europe and used to travel on a vacation in 1980. Shipped back here. Owned by original owner until I bought it. It has a dried up wax-like material in the engine compartment-- rustproofing?? Any idea how I can remove it? The paint underneath still shines if you flake it off with a fingernail.
That may be aftermarket rustproofing -- but it sure sounds like the original Cosmoline (cosmolene) that the factory used to undercoat the cars to prepare them for their overseas shipment. The dealer used a HOT powerwasher to remove the goop when the cars arrived --- it was part of the pre-delivery preparation and inspection. At this age I doubt hot water would do the trick -- but you might try it -- gallon after gallon of really hot water. In the end, you may have to use some mineral spirits -- kerosene -- something like that. Don't get excited and scrape as you'll damage the finish underneath -- try a couple of solvents and this stuff should dissolve and become easy to remove. What it'll do to your garage floor, I don't know! What a mess! You know, you might even try the quarter car wash to remove it before or after a mineral spirit application.
BrakesBrakesDoes your TD copper nickel brake line set fit the MG Magnette of the same vintage? I believe you have me confused with another supplier as we do not offer brake line sets. However, each model is unique as far as placement and lengths, so I would either continue to search for the correct set -- or, purchase a length of brake line, new fittings, and a brake line tool. Making the bubble flares common to the T types and Y types is not difficult at all. Remember that there is nothing wrong with the original 3/16" steel line (which is readily available). And, too, there is stainless line which never rusts! Hope this helps.
BrakesBrake Master Cylinder RebuildI would like to rebuild my brake master cylinder in 68 MGB. It is a Beck/Arnley unit with an oversize bore, .750 , Beck/Arnley no longer makes a rebuild kit for it. Have you ran across this or is there a solution short of replacing the master cylinder? It was working fine when started restoration 3 years ago, just thought I should freshen it after sitting that long. Hope to have the car on the road by summer!? I haven't seen one of these cylinders in a long time -- almost had forgotten that they existed. I want to say that a firm in California was doing these rebuilds, as well as shocks. They're gone now. They found it less expensive to bore out the the cylinder rather than sleeving it -- and make up new pistons and used slightly oversized seals. I believe your only option is to purchase a new cylinder. Keep your old cap, though, if you want it to appear original, as the cap style changed about 1970 and those early caps are no longer supplied. Hope this helps!
BrakesHandbrake AdjustmentHey Guys, I was wondering if you could give me some advice or point me in the right direction of some information about adjusting the handbrake (parking brake) on my 1975 MGB gt I am struggling to find any ifo about this.Thanks in advance.....your youtube info has already been very helpful , I was pointed in its direction by a member of the MG owners club in Edinburgh Please find attached a pic of my wonderful MGB GT Thanks Loads GordonGordon, First, back off the 5/8" nut on the handbrake cable so that the cable itself goes loose and cannot affect the adjustment of the rear brakes. Then adjust each of the rear brakes. Use a 1/4" square socket or spanner. Unscrew the adjuster all the way, grease the threads, then run the adjuster screw in until you cannot turn it -- don't break it off, of course! Then back the adjuster out, quarter turn by quarter turn until the drum runs free. The workshop manual says the distance between fully locked and fully free is 1/4 turn. In practice, it's usually two quarter turns. Once that's all done, then you can adjust the handbrake. This is more easily a two person job. Use a pair of vise grips to hold the cable from turning, then begin to screw the 5/8 brass nut on the handbrake cable farther onto the cable. After every adjustment (a turn or so) have your associate pull up on the handle. The workshop manual asked for "three clicks" above horizontal. This works well on the RHD drive cars because you can get a good purchase on the handle with your left hand. On the LHD MGBs, it's better to get an angle of about 30 degrees, as one has to read over the tunnel. Hope this helps!
BrakesBrake & Fuel Line FittingsMr. Twist

I have recently started restoring a 1979 and 1980 MGB and have tried to find fittings for brake lines and fuel lines as I intend to renew all the tubing and fittings. for both these systems.

I contacted MG World magazine (Philip Raby) and they gave me your name as a source for this information.

I would appreciate information on where to find a manufacturers name, address or location and address of where drawings for these systems as well as other systems may be obtained. I am sure MG must have had a list of drawings, etc, with bill of material for the major systems of their automobiles. Any information you could forward would be appreciated.

Thanking You

Louis P. Jaarsma
Richmond, CA 94805

Louis!

There are two places you could find this information: British Motor Heritage Industry Trust, Gaydon, Warwickshire, England. Anders Clausager is the archivist there -- they have all remaining factory records; or, you can contact Moss Motors as they are a Heritage Supplier and have access to factory information.

In the end, I doubt you'll be able to get copies of the drawings -- either because they no longer exist, or because of the red tape. Remember that on your 1980 MGB, the brake fittings on the master cylinder at 10 x 1.00 metric and the rest are 3/8-24 UNF.

I hope this helps.
BrakesDisc BrakesJohn,

Do you happen to know what brake/caliper and rotor the factory used on the rear of the MGC GTS cars? I'd like to convert the rally car's rear brakes to a disc setup; I hadn't known Abingdon had done it already (although it doesn't surprise me) until I recently was looking at some pix of the GTS cars and noticed rear disc brakes.

Safety Fast!

Phil

PHIL!

I haven't a clue! Nor do I know anyone who would know! But, you might try Ron Gammons at Brown and Gammons -- he had a lot of knowledge about the "GTS" at the summer party. Try him through www.ukmgparts.com
BrakesBrakesJohn,

I have a technical question for you concerning my 1948 MGTC's brakes. As you know these brakelinings are riveted to the shoes. I have riveted them several times and have always had problems with damaging the linings. If you don't do them tight enough, the linings are loose--if you rivet too tightly, you crack the linings. I had thought that if they can be bonded to the shoes--things would be easier. Is that possible?? Is it advisable?? I can continue to live with the riveting issue--but thought it might be easier and better to get them bonded if possible.

Tom Turner

TOM!

We always have TC shoes BONDED by the local brake company. Further, they radius the new shoes to fit the drums. As a note of caution -- for whatever reason, it is not possible (easily) to turn TC drums. Riveting is pretty old fashioned (of course, so is that TC!) and not as good as bonding.
BrakesBrakes John, I have a question on brakes for a 1977 mgb. I have a rebuilt master and rebuilt calipers and new wheel cylinders. Upon bleeding the system, I still have excessive pedal travel---could there still be air in the lines??? Should I rebleed the master and what is the story with unsrewing the pressure failure switch. The Bently manual said to unscrew it 3.5 turns while bleeding.

mike murdola

ps--I used to be the territory sales rep for Moore Business Products in the Ada/Lansing/Flint area of Michigan.

MIKE!

Your 1977 MGB should have virtually NO pedal travel, with the engine off. It should be nearly ROCK HARD!

So, go out and drive the car, drag the brakes to help "bed them in" and readjust the rear brakes. My bet is that the rear brakes simply need adjusting. And, remember the adjusting sequence: Back off the handbrake cable, unscrew each adjuster, grease it up, turn it into the backing plate until it is TIGHT, then back it off, quarter turn by quarter turn until the wheel "just" spins free. The distance between fully locked and fully free should be one quarter turn. For new shoes, it's more like 3 quarter turns. Then, readjust the handbrake.

There is always the bizarre possibility that you've fitted the calipers left to right. The hose enters at the top and the bleeder is at the TOP!

Hope this helps at this late date!
BrakesBrake Booster Do you have any information on the brake booster troubleshooting? The problem is dragging calipers. Other sources have been checked out and the brake booster seems to be the culprit at this point. (kits were put in the calipers, rotors turned, new hoses installed, m/c has not been rebuilt but appears to be working correctly). The booster is functioning and providing assist to the brakes, but something appears to be interfereing with its action when at rest and pressure continues to be applied to the m/c. We have not tried a rebuild kit for the booster. We have replace the rubber grommet on the vacuum hose entering
the booster housing. We haven't found much information in the Haynes manual, or your tech manual, or the Porter book (1st edition) on the booster.
Any information you can provide would be useful.
Bill Mills
Raleigh, NC

BILL!

I would first inspect the freeplay in the brake pedal. If the brake light switch is screwed too far into its housing, then there is no freeplay, and the brakes are always on (if just a little). As long as you have not worked with the booster or the brake master cylinder, then I would not suspect these as the problem. I wonder, too, if you've actually been out on the road, of if this dragging is something you've noticed in the shop -- which might just be the normal amount of drag. If, in fact, the
front brakes are heating up when driving then there is a real problem. Find this by trying to squeeze one of the brake caliper pistons back into the bore (remove the pad first and lever the piston with screwdrivers), and
cracking the brake line loose at the hose and at the master cylinder to figure which one is causing a line restriction. Remember that those fittings in the brake master cylinder are one of the only METRIC applications in the entire vehicle! Hope this little bit helps.
BrakesBrakes John: Thanks for rebuilding MGA carbs for me this summer and for assisting my mechanic resolving the leak. I've got another question about my MGA (1957). I had a fluid leak in in two of my brake wheel cylinders, so I sent all 6 of them to White Post for resleeving and rebuilding. I had rebuilt the master cylinder about 9 months ago, and it was working fine. The cylinders arrived back from White Post, and I put them on this past weekend, along with a new clutch slave cylinder and all new flexible hoses. I have
bled, and bled, and bled the system, and no more air is coming from the cylinders (I use an Eezi-Bleed). The clutch works fine, but I am getting no brake action. The brake pedal still goes to the floor. Before putting the
front wheel cylinders on, I pulled the piston and dust cap off of one and examined the seals etc, because I understand that different internal seals can be used, depending on manufacturer. The wheel cylinders are not Lockheed. The set up appears to be what is illustrated in the MGA parts
manual and the Moss catalog, except that I noticed that Whitepost did not put an expander (illustration 103, page 25 in new Moss catalog, Part # (180-170) behind the cup that is next to the piston. Consequently, the spring rests directly on the rear of the rubber cup. There is no seal on
the piston. Could my lack of any pressure in the system be a consequence of the missing expander in all 4 brake cylinders up front? I'm not sure what else to try. Any suggestions would be appreciated. My daughter is going
to be driving this car occasionally, and I want these brakes to be perfect.
Thanks as always. Regards, Dennis Werner

Dennis! There are several considerations here with the MGA 1500 Drum/Drum brakes. First, is that the front wheel cylinders are installed correctly. The front cylinder of the front brakes should have the piston pushing DOWN.
The rear cylinder of the front brakes whould, therefore, should push UP. I believe that the cup expanders are important -- they keep the cup in position and lengthen the usable time of the cup. There is a one way valve at the rear of the BRAKE master cylinder bore. This incorporates a rubber ring (a square sectioned O ring), and a odd, top
hat style valve with a rubber plug insert. This valve keeps some pressure in the brake system. You may have to adjust your brakes -- the pedal movement you are experiencing might just be in the initial adjustment of the shoes. You may have to adjust your brake pedal freeplay -- you MUST have about 1/2" freeplay at the pedal for the brakes to work properly. You may have an air leak at the rear of the master cylinder. This is a difficult line to tighten, at best. Use a "crow foot" that fits your 3/8
drive socket set (7/16" crowfoot). I hope some of this helps! Come on up to our technical seminars in
February!
BrakesDust Seal Retaining RingsHello,
I am about ready to rebuild the calipers on my '72 B, and have been informed of the difficulty in reinstalling the dust seal retaining rings. Is there any secret to facilitate the reinstalling of the retaining rings upon reassembly? Thanks.
Chris

CHRIS!

You've probably already got those calipers finished, but if not -- and for others, here are some hints. First of all, you MUST separate the caliper halves, despite the warnings. Then, you much CLEAN the relief around the caliper bore until it has NO MORE DIRT or RUST!!. Fit the dust seal into the retaining ring, smear both with the red brake assembly grease, and push the ring into the bore as far as possible by hand-- keeping it level the whole time. Then, use the tiniest hammer you have to slightly tap tap tap around the circumference until the ring is in place.
IF the ring begins to TILT then STOP, pull it out, and start again. If you bend the ring, you will NEVER get it back into place! Fit a new caliper O ring between the halves.
BrakesSpacerJohn,
Thanks very much for your reply and the suggestion on reforming the
spacer.
When you say " ignore this spacer" do you mean leave it out and is the
pre
load in lb-ft or lb-in? Thanks again for your help. Hope to come to one
of your workshops this summer. Gene


Gene!

I would reform it, re-install it, but watch the pre-load from your gauge
when assembled. We do this by "feel" when we replace the front seal on the
diff. But, then, we've done a lot of them!

John
BrakesVibration When BrakingJohn, I'm not sure if you respond to tech problems via email, I
understand it
may be impossible for you. Here's my problem...1974 MGB-GT (chrome
bumpers)
at highway running speeds (50-70MPH) application of brakes results in a
very
high frequency shudder/vibration thru the steering wheel. No
vibration/pulsing
occurs at lower speeds. I rebuilt the calipers and installed new
rotors...no
change. Could this be king pin/bushing or steering rack related? Thanks
for
all you do for the marque. Dick Fabrizio/Boston...email= John, I'm not sure if you respond to tech problems via email, I
understand it
may be impossible for you. Here's my problem...1974 MGB-GT (chrome
bumpers)
at highway running speeds (50-70MPH) application of brakes results in a
very
high frequency shudder/vibration thru the steering wheel. No
vibration/pulsing
occurs at lower speeds. I rebuilt the calipers and installed new
rotors...no
change. Could this be king pin/bushing or steering rack related? Thanks
for
all you do for the marque. Dick Fabrizio/Boston...email= John, I'm not sure if you respond to tech problems via email, I
understand it
may be impossible for you. Here's my problem...1974 MGB-GT (chrome
bumpers)
at highway running speeds (50-70MPH) application of brakes results in a
very
high frequency shudder/vibration thru the steering wheel. No
vibration/pulsing
occurs at lower speeds. I rebuilt the calipers and installed new
rotors...no
change. Could this be king pin/bushing or steering rack related? Thanks
for
all you do for the marque. Dick Fabrizio

DICK!

I do respond to these questions, Email, but sometimes it takes a while.
Perhaps you've already got your problem solved? In that case, please write
me back because I cannot think of any good reasons why you are experiencing
these problems. Well, I can think of loose wheel bearings -- do you have
the hub nut torqued to about 60 lb-ft? Are the front shocks good and tight
against the front cross member? Did you change the brake pads, too? I'm
certain it's not the kingpins or rack and pinion -- those are simply
transmitting the vibration. What you feel begins at the rotors.
Stay in touch as you sort through this!
BrakesCotter PinJohn Thanks for the information on grease and oil! Not quite ready to
work
yet, I am still trying to find a 7/64x2" cotter pin, my stores have a
11/2"
and a 1/8" x2" so until all the parts are ready to go and it get a little

warmer in my shop I"ll keep rereading the shop manual.

again Thanks

David Hardy

David -- that split pin (cotter pin) simply has to pass through the center
of the roll (tension) pin to give it a little extra thickness (greater
shear strength) and, folded over, helps to prevent it from walking out.
Another size might work.
BrakesBrake ProblemsJohn -

' Sorry this is rather long, but I need some advice. Back in May I
started
having problems with a soft low brake pedal on my '76 B. It's never been
firm like my non-servo Bs but it got quite a bit worse. A Roanoke Brit
Car
Resto guy noted the engine idle was affected by the brake pedal and
suggested it was probably a vacuum leak in the servo. So I sent a servo
from my '76 parts car off to Apple Hydraulics and got it rebuilt.

While at it, I put in brand new master cylinders (clutch and brake) from
Moss and on advice of the same guy in Roanoke, flushed out the whole
system
and converted to DOT 5. I did bench-bleed the MC first. Still got a soft
pedal and within three days my left front caliper was leaking (I've never
had a caliper leak in all my 15 years experience with MGBs).

' Was about to rebuild calipers (as I've done on other Bs) and discovered
Advance Auto has rebuilt calipers with OE pistons for $35.99 - with
lifetime warranty. So I flushed out the system - thoroughly - converting
back to Castrol GT/LMA DOT4 before installing rebuilt calipers. Again, I
bled the whole system thoroughly - starting with left rear, then right
rear, right front and finally left front. There's no DOT 5 left in the
system.

Still soft pedal. Pads are good. The brake hoses were replaced about two
years ago, as was the left rear wheel cylinder which I discovered leaking
at that time. Shoes looked good then. Car has gone about 15,000 miles
since then.

The right rear wheel cylinder is the only item in the system that I
haven't
replaced. It is working and although I haven't had the drum off, there is
no outside sign of leaking. I am aware that lots of DIYers put rear brake
shoes on wrong and mine are right - like in the Bentley illustrations.
The
rears are set as high as I can get 'em without overheating the hubs - in
fact I had to back my left rear off a bit. Even when it was set too high,
soft pedal.

If I pump the brakes once, on the second application, they feel good. I
know this is a classic symptom of rears in need of setting up, but that's
not the problem. At the worst, the pedal may feel awful but the brakes do
work well - although the right rear tends to lock up first on hard stops.

I even turned the brake light switch in about 1/2-turn - which minimizes
the 1/8th-inch pedal freeplay and, not surprisingly, makes no difference.
The pedal does not "leak down" nor am I losing any brake fluid. In fact,
I
swear the level in the reservoir went UP slightly after a 40-mile test
drive. Could there still be an air bubble in the system...? I suppose
although it seems unlikely. What could I be overlooking? Should I
replace
rear brake shoes?

Many thanks!

Allen Bachelder

ALLEN!

The possibilities lie in just several areas: Brake adjustment;
air in the system; faulty
servo -- so:

With the engine off, your brakes should feel firmer than your
1962-1974 as the master cylinder piston diameter is larger -- hence less
distance to move the same amount of fluid. If the brake pedal is not REALLY
firm here:

Again, adjust the rear brakes: slacken off the handbrake all
the way; back off the rear adjusters until they stop, grease them up, turn
them in until you cannot turn them anymore, then back them off, quarter turn
by quarter turn, until the drum "just" runs free. The rotation between
fully locked and fully free should be one or two quarter turns. If that
doesn't do it...

Inspect the front brakes: are the calipers right side up?
Bleeders at the top? Again bleed the system, SLOWLY. Bleeder open, pedal
to the floor, bleeder closed, pedal up. Bleed the rears first, about eight
bleeds on one side, two on the other. Fronts should be bled five times a
side. If that does not do it:

Remove the master cylinder -- I know, it's not easy -- and
measure the distance that the pushrod extends from the front of the servo
assy. THIS IS A CRITICAL MEASUREMENT!! I ground off two long nuts to 0.408
for "factory tools." These you thread over the studs, then place a drilled
piece of flat stock over the studs to find that the pushrod "just" touches
the bar. The pushrod is not easily adjusted, but it's possible.

FYI: If the engine speed increases with the servo depressed,
then there is a leak in the one way valve -- rebuilding is necessary.
However, you'll find now that repeatedly pumping the brakes will increase
idle -- each pump allows a bit of fresh air to enter the intake manifold.
I have never had to replace a brake master cylinder. Rebuilding them is a
DREAM compared to the earlier ones! We rarely replace the clutch master
cylinder, but find that rebuilding it, in place, (DO NOT HONE), works well
in nearly every case. We use SILICONE BRAKE FLUID rarely!! It is full of
its own problems.

Please work back and forth with me and tell me what the problem
was -- when you find it!
BrakesBrake Fluidjohn,



i got a print out from you a number of months ago about dot 5 brake fluid.
there was a reference to removing .050 inches from the piston on some
cylinders. i need to know if this is needed on my MG.



Thanks,


fred langford

FRED!

I would use silicone fluid ONLY if your underbonnet is PERFECT and
ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL. If it is as most underbonnets, do not use the
silicone fluid. The notes I made were regarding the MGA and Midget twin
master cylinder. You need not make that correction to yours.

FAST FORWARD!
BrakesBrakesJohn -

I can't thank you enough for your detailed response - on a weekend yet!
It
looks like the '76 B brake problem is going to sit for awhile as tomorrow
morning we're taking the '73 B to visit Ontario relatives and on to Grand
Bend for the NAMGAR Hosers Eh! GT.
The '76 brakes will be first-priority when we return (the '76 is my daily
transportation!), and I will be posting my progress(or lack of it) to you.
At any rate, if I don't respond for about 10 days, that's the reason.

This is the same behavior as before I replaced the servo, master cylinder
and front calipers, so my meagre sense of logic has me looking elsewhere
for the solution. But on the other hand the idle does increase slightly -
at least when I pump the brakes. ' Can't overlook the possibility that
the
rebuilt servo is defective.

I did disconnect the vacuum hose from the manifold and found the nonreturn
valve would not let me blow back in the hose. Is that an adequate test?
By
the way, this car is converted back to dual HS4s and I have the vacuum
line
connected to the center of the intake manifold where the gulp valve used
to
be. ' Used a brass "L" fitting that threads correctly into the manifold
and has a stepped hose fitting on the other end. Is this arrangement OK?

Again, THANKS! Last time I needed advice, it was in regard to my O/D.
You
told me to replace O rings on the solonoid, I did it, and it's been great
for over two years since.

Allen

ALLEN!

The possibilities lie in just several areas: Brake
adjustment;
air in the system; faulty
servo -- so:...

Please work back and forth with me and tell me what the problem
was -- when you find it!
BrakesBrakes FixedJohn -

' Didn't expect to be writing back this soon, but I had a couple of hours
this afternoon and WOW, VOILA, EUREKA, and lots more! I started with the
adjusters, doing what you said. The RR adjuster still bothered me - I
couldn' feel the 'detents' every 90¬?, so I pulled the RR drum. Now here
comes the real fluke: what's that inside the drum? Why it's a brake
lining! The lining had completely detached from the forward shoe. It was
at the bottom of the drum when I took it off - presumably it rotated as far
as the other shoe would let it - but that meant no shoe for the adjuster to
press against. To keep things in balance, I replaced shoes on both sides.
Now I really have brakes!!! Perhaps it's a combination of several previous
problems but with new MC, new calipers, new servo, and now new shoes, they
feel much better than they ever have.

There's a moral here somewhere. When something goes wrong I tend to
replace everything. And on more than one occasion, the solution has been a
fluke - something simple that I overlooked. A lot of this was unnecessary
I'm sure, but then there is some piece of mind in knowing the entire brake
system is tip-top. The next time I need a rebuilt late-model MC, you know
where it's going! Do you do servos also? I didn't see it listed in your
bench services.

But never in a million years would I have guessed a loose brake lining.
And if I were to guess what the symptoms of a loose lining might be, I
would suspect some strange noises from that drum - NOT a soft pedal.
Strange - that was the wheel that was locking up first in hard braking. Go
figure...

Again, thanks for all the attention!

Allen

ALLEN!

We've only seen loose linings, as you've described, several times.
Very unusual, to say the least!

Glad it's all done!
BrakesMaster CylinderCan the master cylinder in a 1974 be rebuilt in place or must it be
removed?

Thanks in advance for your help.

I need to know the model of MG; I need to know brake or clutch. But,
offhand, the clutch master cylinder can be rebuilt in situ; the brake master
cylinder requires someone very familiar with the unit as it can easily be
damaged during rebuild!
BrakesTool to Release C-clips from Tandem Master Brake CylinderSir: Is there a "special" tool required to release the C-clips from the
tandem master brake cylinder? I had no trouble with the main. I am really
stumped as is a few good mechanics in the area.
1974 MGB part.
Sincerely
Dave Mendenhall

DAVE!

I used to use a set of snap ring pliers that I had ground down --
but those would not last. Now I just use a pair of layout scribes (very
inexpensive) to draw the ring loose from it's relief and bring it up the
bore. Be VERY, VERY careful, as any damage to the main piston will cause
the cylinder to leak. I always polish the piston on the lathe and then on
the buffing wheel to remove the scratch marks I've made -- as well as the
ones caused by years of dirt.
BrakesBrake Fluid, University MotorsFor some factual information on Silicone DOT5 Brake Fluid please contact :
Automec Equipment & Parts Ltd 36 Ballmoor Buckingham ENGLAND MK18 1RQ Fax 0044 1280 823140 or see our Website www.automec.co.uk

There is so much wrong information particularly on American pages - surprising since the stuff is only made in the States - that it would take weeks to deal with all of the points raised. We have been selling SBF DOT5 and using it ourselves since 1982 and wouldn't sell or use anything else. We have had two vehicles go over 200,000 miles on it! Basically - IT IS NOT A RACING FLUID but it will not boil below 260c(500f) and many club racers do get good results with it. It will not damage paint. It will not catch fire easily as 'glycol does - just check the relative flashpoints. Contrary to many reports it is very easy to switch to SBF - we have never changed a seal or hose, we certainly would never use anything other than SBF to flush through during the normal bleeding process. We bleed by the book and since all SBF is purple the job is even simpler. It is permanent because it effectively absorbs no moisture. It prevents corrosion and all of the problems associated with that. The viscosity is stable thru most temperature extremes you are likely to encounter - which is why the US Army specify it - and in a very short time it is very cost effective. ie The BMW Dealers here charge more than 100pds.stg. just to change the fluid at a service interval - good business eh! Not with us anymore - we use it exclusively in all of our vehicles, including a BMW728 and an 840 and wouldn't use anything else! You should use however DOT or SAE rated hoses, and other perishable items. Since SBF is DOT rated it should assure you that it has been proven to be compatible with all the other DOT/SAE rated items in the system - hoses, seals,fluid and switch material (this latter item DOT rated seems to be difficult to get hold of and we suspect that something in those switches can from some sources cause problems)

Ray Smith
PS Are you in anyway connected to the famous UMECO Mayfair London back in the sixties? I used to work with them!

RAY!

Thank you VERY kindly for this note. I use silicone fluid in the shop on the very nicest cars only. Those with "normal" firewalls get the Castrol LMA. I've run into several problems with the silicone: Seal swelling; premature leaking; difficulty in bleeding. The seal swelling is a problem with the MGA and T type master cylinders where a bleed hole is covered by the swelling. Knowing this, it is easily avoided by changing the position of the master cylinder, slightly. The premature leaking has not been scientifically proven, it just seems that way! The difficulty in bleeding we've experienced is aeration of the fluid by rapid pedal movement -- of course, this can be avoided too. Perhaps I should try to use more of this fluid. More and more of our vehicles are sitting, unused, for longer period of time. I wonder if the problems of frozen cylinders and damaged bores would lessen.

I worked in Hanwell, W7, in 1972-73. University was quite an operation then -- something like 40 fitters and boys on the shop floor, and that wonderful lubrication/tuning line, behind glass, that was the envy of all shops, British and European. Yet, there never seemed to be any improvements made while I was there. Returned to the USA in 1973 and figured if the name was good enough for them, I'd borrow the use of it. Now I am a Heritage Approved Workshop, recommended workshop by the MGOC, trade member of the MGCC, recommended workshop by a number of the US clubs, and the original University Motors is gone. It's a long way from Michael Bradstock to me, but I continue the name and reputation. I still have my UMECO shopping card!
Brakes72 MG Midget Master CylinderHi John-
We have just purchased a 72 Midget. The plastic cup on the master cylinder is
weathered and broken. Our first efforts to find one have been useless.
Any thoughts or words of wisdom. We an get the rebuild kits and the plastic cap.
Thanks
Morris and Rita

Morris!

You should be able to find a master cylinder CAP or a master cylinder RESERVOIR from Tom at British Miles 1-800-WE-FIX-MG.

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
BrakesMGB Brakes Dear John,
I got your email address from MG World Magazine. I am hoping you
may help me with the following problem :-

I have just finished rebuilding the braking system of my 1972 MGB.
I have resealed the master cylinder, renewed the pipes and replaced
the rear cylinders. The only component I have not touched is the remote
servo.
I have bled the system thoroughly using a pressurized bleeding kit,
starting
with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder but I cannot get
rid of
the spongy brake pedal.
I have heard that the remote servo system is hard to bleed and that some
people mount the servo upside down to help. Is this really necessary or
am
I doing something wrong ?
I have never driven the car yet as it was bought needing restoration so I
don't
know if the brakes or servo were ok before they were stripped down.
Can you offer any advice ?

Regards

Glenn

GLENN!

You can probably quickly determine IF the spongy pedal is due to the
servo. Purchase a BCA 4002, a female/female coupler, disconnect the servo
and connect the lines to the coupler. After bleeding the pedal should be
ROCK HARD! That is, unless you are using silicone brake fluid which gives a
spongy feel and must be bled very, very slowly to avoid aeration.

We do not have external servos fitted in the US, so I am not
familiar with them on the MGBs -- but I do have experience with the Girling
units on the MGC and on the big Healeys. I cannot remember an episode the
cause of which I would attribute to a problem with the servo. Once, years
and years ago we tried to bleed an MGA and just couldn't get ANYWHERE -- it
turned out the calipers were fitted left to right and the bleeders were on
the bottom.

Let me know the answer to your problem when you discover it so I am
better informed about the remote servo Lockheed systems.

SAFETY FAST!
John Twist, Service Manager
BrakesChanging brake switch without bleeding brakesJust wanted to thank you again for your time during the Sterling
Inspection on my 1958 MGA. As a newcomer, I appreciate your willingness
to share the finer details so willingly, so that I may improve the car
even further. When I returned to the hotel on Saturday afternoon, the
first thing I did was make a list of all of the points you mentioned (at
least I think I got them all). From there, I'll endeavor to correct them
as soon as possible.

I was wondering about one thing in particular. You mentioned that the
brake lights probably didn't work because the brake switch doesn't last
more than about 6 months if using Silicon fluid. It appears Silicone is
by far the better choice for many reasons, so I think I should get used
to the idea of changing the switch as necessary. Here's the big
question: Can the switch be changed without bleeding the line?

By the way, my wife Elaine and daughter Kristin were also at the show,
and all of us enjoyed your banquet remarks a great deal.

If you're interested, we have our MGA pictured on our web site (listed
below). Just click on the last button in the left frame of the site.
(Kristin has named the car "Abby" in honor of where it was built.)

Thanks again,

Best Regards

Bill Pederson

Bill!

I apologise for not writing back in a more timely manner. But, I
can still save you some time. It is NOT necessary to bleed the brake system
after changing the brake light switch. The normal course of events is that
when you remove the brake switch, gravity pulls brake fluid out of the
fitting (rather than air getting introduced), so simply (although quickly)
replacing the switch is an easy matter.

Hope this helps at this late date!

John
BrakesMaster cylinder freeplayHi John:

This seems like a never-ending story! I wrote a nice, polite letter to the mechanic citing your and Mike Ash's theories. He has agreed to take another look at the car to see if he can take out some extra free play in the linkages. But that scares me a bit as I know that if you take out enough free play you can eliminate the problem.

Up to a point, what is the danger of taking out freeplay at the master cylinder operating rod? I will also suggest rebuilding the master cylinder and see what he thinks about that. Thanks again for your interest.

Frank

Frank! You can take all of the freeplay out, with the exception of the last little "tunk," which translates to about 1/2" at the pedal. Hope your guy can get it right!

John
Brakes1977 MGB Roadster questionsJohn,

I am in Albuquerque, NM, and am trying to get my daughter's 1977 MGB
Roadster, which has been in storage for over 10-years, back on the road.

I have seen your ad in Hemmings Motor News, and Technical Tips in AMGBA's
Magazine (Octagon). As such, I would like to solicit your recommendations
on a couple of items, and also inquire about the "Seminars" you offer.
Starting with the seminars, are instructions on rebuilding the brake and
clutch hydraulic systems offered by correspondence? I am having the
engine
rebuilt (locally), and would greatly appreciate your advice on the other
subsystems.

Questions:

Brakes: I discovered a couple of days after pumping the brake pedal that
I
have a leak coming from the master cylinder and/or servo unit. Is the
Servo
Assembly a vacuum boost unit, and as such, I only need to install a repair
kit in the master cylinder? Does rebuilding the front Caliper Assembly
require special tools?

Tires: What size tires do you recommend for Rostyle Wheels? The car
currently has 165 SR14 tires, and the only brand available locally in that
size is from Vredestein. The Moss catalog says 175/70-14, and 185/70-14
will fit. The 185's diameter comes close to the 165, but is almost an
inch
wider. What are your thoughts on low profile tires (70-series) vs the
original 165-80 series?

Radios: Do you carry adaptor plates for the Radio Console? I have an
inexpensive Radio Shack "shaft-style mount" unit, but installation
requires
an adaptor plate. In the book "Original MGB", by Anders Ditlev Clausager,
on
page 52, it shows a Motorola Radio installed in a 1977 North American car,
which looks great. Do you sell replacement radios?

I would greatly appreciate your "words of wisdom" on the above items.
Thank
you in advance for your help.

Regards,
PJT


When you wrote last spring, I was overwhelmed with technical queries
and with work in the shop. It's taken this long to get back with you -- and
you've probably already got your MGB on the road.

The brake master cylinder is an easy fix -- just to remember that
the fittings for the brake lines are 10x1.00 metric. AND, the heavier
spring, the BLACK spring, fits into the cylinder first. The servo rarely
needs attention, but requires CAREFUL attention to measurements if you do
disassemble it!
The front brake calipers are easy to rebuild -- you'll need seals,
pistons, AND the "square" O ring that fits between the caliper halves.
Fitting the new steel sleeves on the dust seals can be F R U S T R A T I N
G -- so don't ruin or throw away the old ones!

We always use 185/70 Kelley Metrics on the MGBs at the shop. They
seem to work very well. Some day, some manufacturer will come back out with
165/14. Those Michelin 165/14 XZX were the best tires ever made for the
MGB.

How did you come out with the engine and the rest of the work?

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
Brakes1964 MGB Roadster - new brake rotors Hi John,

I have a '64 B roadster that requires new brake rotors. What is the best
way to measure the run out on the new rotors? What is the best way to
pull
the dust cap from the hub?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Jeff Scruton

Jeff!

You must have wire wheels? You'll need to fabricate a tool using a
very deep 5/16-24 nut. Fit a bolt into one end of the nut, lock the bolt to
the deep nut with a regular nut. Then, thread the whole works onto the stud
on the dust seal. Grasp the bolt/nut tool with your vise grips and tap it
out with a hammer. You may need to chase the thread if the DPO buggered the
threads with vise grips. Do you have an MGB 1968-1980? If so, you can use
the nut at the right rear of the head -- this is EXACTLY the nut you need --
this one takes a long 3/8-24 bolt.

You won't need to check the run-out on the new rotors, as they come
within spec -- but if you do, expect nothing more than several thousandths.

Set up the front wheel bearings WITHOUT the caliper in place.
Replace the shims as they came out, then tighten the nut to about 60 ftlb
(really tight). The front hub should be loose enough to spin freely, but
not so loose that it "tunks." If it tunks, remove shims; if it's too tight,
add shims. The shims come in 0.030, 0.010, 0.005, and 0.003.

Hope this helps!

John
Brakesbrake master cylinder Re: 1969 MGB-GT brake master cylinder rebuild. I have removed the
spirolox
ring and removed the circlip. The unit will not come apart. I cannot
remove
piston. It will not come out. I assume that the plastic white bearing is
so
tight that it won't come out. Any suggestions? Should I blow it out with
air or try to? How else is this removed?

Randy!

This brake master cylinder is probably the most difficult unit in
the entire car to dis-assemble, repair, and re-assemble without ruining it!
Leaf springs might be more laborious, but there you can see what you're
doing.

Look at your factory workshop manual -- at least a cross section
view. You'll note that from the front to the rear there is: Pushrod,
Piston, spirolox ring, spring, circlip, white plastic washer, front seal,
spacer, circlip, and thick washer. You MUST NOT DAMAGE the piston or all is
lost!!! You cannot squeeze it, you cannot gall it, you shouldn't even
scratch it!

Remove the pushrod, spirolox ring, spring, and front circlip.
Remove the reservoir. Fit a 3/8-24 bolt into each outlet. Use air pressure
with a rubber tipped blow-gun on the front-most hole (under the reservoir).
The white plastic ring WILL come out. Sometimes you have to tap it
rearwards, sometimes you have to lubricate the walls with oil, but keep
working it, back and forth (air and small punch) until it pops out! The
front seal will come out behind it. Then remove the spacer ring. Now the
tricky part.

Remove the deepest circlip with a pair of scribes. Don't use snap
ring pliers -- they just will not work. Use a pair of scribes. Do your
best NOT to scratch or gall the piston.

Hone the cylinder, polish the piston. Fit new seals -- we have a
jig to separate the pistons, but at home you can make a case just to fit the
seals over the large diameter of the piston (tedious at best). Ensure that
the second cup points FORWARDS.

Use LOTS of Girling red assembly brake grease.

If you don't want to risk damaging the cylinder (or if you have
already), send it to me and I can probably fix it back up. Worse case is
that you have to purchase a new cylinder.

I charge 1.5 hours for the rebuild -- $90 plus the kit which is
about $30. Half the price of a new cylinder -- and mine look really nice
when they come back!


John
BrakesMGB BrakesAfter a rebuild of the brake master, the front brakes of my 1968 B lock up
after driving a couple of blocks. They release when I crack open any
front
connector (bleeder, between the PDWA and the MC). My MC has an
adjustment
for the distance between the primary and secondary pistons.

Are there any suggestions for correcting this problem? Local shops don't
have much use for looking at my LBC!

Thanks for any help you can render,

Steve Bondeson

Steve!

The most common error is the misplacement of the brake light switch.
Unscrew the switch until you have 1/2" of pedal freeplay. That will
probably do it!

John
BrakesMGB Brakes Cont. John,

Thanks for the suggestion. The free play was not the problem so I'll keep
searching for another solution!

Thanks again for responding.
Steve

Did you refit the front, large coil spring on the primary piston -- the one
that fits externally? You have a very unusual problem!! Are you using
silicone brake fluid?

John
Brakes
Hi John,

I have a 1972 MGB, restored about 5 years ago. At the end of last season,
I
experienced some uneven braking only at low speed. By uneven braking I
mean
the the car would sort of lurch or shake when the brakes were applied and
the
car was almost stopped (below 10 mph). This problem seemed to occur only
after the brakes were warmed up. However, the car still stopped quite well
in
spite of the lurching.

I thought that the front rotors were probably warped, so I bought new
rotors, pads, clips, etc and replaced everything a week or so ago.
Unfortunately, the problem has not gone away. Do you know where I should
look next? Should I now do a repair and replace on the rear brakes, or is
there somewhere else that I should be looking?

Thank you.

Steve Swarin

Steve!

You've already fixed the problem by now, I expect -- I apologize for
my tardy response.

Here are some thoughts, but PLEASE let me know what you found and
how you fixed it!

If the brake rotors are warped, you'll feel the pedal pulsating. If
the pedal doesn't pulsate, the rotors are not warped.

If the brake drums are out of round, or there is some sort of
problem in the rear, the car can sometimes feel like it's surging -- but
there won't be a discernable tremble or pulse in the pedal.

Adjust the rear brakes! Of course, slacken the handbrake first,
then re-adjust it when the rear brakes are properly adjusted.

Let me know what you found!

John
BrakesMGB Brake Uneveness Hi John,

I have a 1972 MGB, restored about 5 years ago. At the end of last season,
I
experienced some uneven braking only at low speed. By uneven braking I
mean
the the car would sort of lurch or shake when the brakes were applied and
the
car was almost stopped (below 10 mph). This problem seemed to occur only
after the brakes were warmed up. However, the car still stopped quite well
in
spite of the lurching.

I thought that the front rotors were probably warped, so I bought new
rotors, pads, clips, etc and replaced everything a week or so ago.
Unfortunately, the problem has not gone away. Do you know where I should
look next? Should I now do a repair and replace on the rear brakes, or is
there somewhere else that I should be looking?

Thank you.

Steve Swarin

Steve!

You've already fixed the problem by now, I expect -- I apologize for
my tardy response.

Here are some thoughts, but PLEASE let me know what you found and
how you fixed it!

If the brake rotors are warped, you'll feel the pedal pulsating. If
the pedal doesn't pulsate, the rotors are not warped.

If the brake drums are out of round, or there is some sort of
problem in the rear, the car can sometimes feel like it's surging -- but
there won't be a discernable tremble or pulse in the pedal.

Adjust the rear brakes! Of course, slacken the handbrake first,
then re-adjust it when the rear brakes are properly adjusted.

Let me know what you found!

John
BrakesSpirlox Ring and Clip ProblemJohn,

i just saw your write up on the master rebuild! I have a 74 b and have master all striped down still having piston in bore.. can't figure out hou to get spirlox ring and circlip off???

Please advise I was hoping the brake mastrer was going to be as easy as the clutch?

Thanks
Harrison

Harrison!

The spirlox ring requires two people -- one to hold the large cup towards the cylinder, another to peel the ring from the end of the piston. Then, off comes the large cup and the heavy spring. Next is a normal circlip on which you can use circlip pliers. After that is a white plastic spacer. This can be difficult, but I've found that air pressure will blow it out. Seal up the two outlets (3/8-24 bolts in the outlet reducers). Place your airgun at the forwardmost hole and PUFF -- it should blow the white plastic ring out of the cylinder. If it doesn't, carefully tap the ring back into place, and PUFF again, and again, and again, tapping the ring back down each time, maybe squirting WD40 or similar penetrant on it. Finally it WILL pop out. Under that lies a large lipped seal (which will come out with the white plastic spacer) and under that lies a black steel ring which will fall out. Now comes the difficult circlip!

Use two sheet metal layout scribes (I commonly refer to them as "dentist tools") to squeeze the ring to a smaller diameter and twirl it out. DO NOT scratch the master cylinder piston!!!!

Then, you'll probably want to separate the master cylinder piston halves so you can fit the new seals. This too, is difficult. We have a small jig that holds the spring cub out of the way to drive out the world's second tiniest tension pin (DON'T lose it!!).

Or, you can send it to me and for one hour, I'll disassemble it, hone, polish, and rebuild it. That's $60 plus parts.

Let me know!

John
Brakeswheel cylinder circlips
I have a 1969 MGB, I've removed my old wheel cylinders and am trying to install the new ones but am having no luck installing the new circlips. I've pounded flat the old ones and have them installed but I'm not sure I trust them. Is there a trick or tool I need to install this type of circlip? Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Tim!

First, you have to hold the cylinder tightly against the backing plate. There is no better tool for this than another person levering it back with a large screwdriver.

Second, fit one end and the middle of the circlip over the cylinder, then, with a smaller screwdriver (than the one above), twist or pop the last leg of the circlip into place. It should take about ten seconds!

Hope this helps!

John

Brakes67 MGBI have
just aquired a '67 that has been sitting for 15 years. One question I
have
is about the braided stainless steal brake lines: Do they have rubber on
the inside or is it all ss? Also, do you know of someone who makes a
stainless steel gas tank, please?
Thank you,
-Jeremy

Jeremy!

The stainless lines must have rubber on the inside or the fluid
would leak through any woven metal. I see those from time to time, but I'm
a believer in the original brake lines. I do not know of a manufacturer of
stainless MGB tanks, but you might check MG Owners Club (through
www.mgcars.org.uk).

John

BrakesA Master Cylinders

I believe I saw somewhere that you perform resleaving
of MGA master cylinders? If this is the case, can you
tell me what it costs to have the work done and
whether you recommend brass or stainless?

On the mgcars.org BBS there are a number of people
that claim brass is too soft and leaks, especially w/
silicone fluid. Not sure which route to take.

thanks, Jake
Jake!

It is true that silicone fluid leaks FAR FAR FAR more easily than
"real" brake fluid. It is true that the ONLY advantage to silicone fluid is
that it does not eat paint. It is true that brass sleeved cylinders seem to
leak more silicone fluid than real fluid. But why? I cannot imagine it's
because the brass is "soft," but something's going on, for sure.

You can have the cylinders resleeved in stainless. You can buy new
cylinders. What is the condition of your bulkhead? Is it perfect? If it
is, you MUST use silicone fluid. If you use a brass sleeved cylinder, you
have to have a sponge under the master cylinder (same colour sponge as the
bodywork!). I have no experience with silicone and original and/or
stainless sleeved cylinders.

Hope this helps.

John

BrakesBrake Lights Stay onOK, I am with you on this.

The car is a 74 ½ (Rubber Bumper) “B”. The problem is the brake lights themselves not the warning light. For some reason, they just intermittently just like to stay on. As I said, this is my third switch, I have adjusted it just about from end to end yet the problem continues.


I have been pulling my hair out on this one (and I am quickly running out of a precious commodity). When I back the switch off, it just won’t make contact – when I leave it in a position where it just does make that contact – it goes back to being stuck on. If I pump the pedal, it sometimes goes off – sometimes not.



Changed the switch twice – nada!!!

Glad to see you writing – love the updates – and you’ve even convinced me to get involved again. I just joined the local British Car Club (really a triumph club but they gave it a second name to draw non-triumph owners.



Anyway, don’t know if you remember, probably not, but last year I wrote about my brake switch and told you that I just kept having problems getting the brake lights off.



Well, I followed your directions and did change the switch – but still have the same problem. Lights stay on. If I pump the pedal there’s a 50/50 chance that they will go out – but either way, new switch or old switch, the lights want to stay on.



Could there be a short somewhere in the trunk which would keep the lights on??






LarryB



Larry!

Gosh! Are the wires crossing right there at the switch? Is the brake light circuit accidentally grounded (which quickly burns out switches) -- have you been to the body shop lately? Do the brake lights work WITHOUT a switch in the circuit?

Proper installation demands that you screw the switch in until you have about 1/2" pedal freeplay. The position of the switch controls the freeplay.

What can you tell me?


It is possible for us to solve this. Let's start at the top. What year and model? Are we talking brake lights or are we talking the brake warning light in the dash?



It's almost always the POSITION of the brake light switch -- how far it's screwed in (which, in turn, controls the position of the brake pedal). Make certain you have 1/2" pedal freeplay!



Good luck!



John




BrakesRebuild KitsI got my MG back yesterday and have driven it about 150 miles since then. Basically they did a compression test, major tune up, valve adjustment (with new valve stems), carb balance, mounted the tires I bought on eBay and adjusted my brakes quite nicely.


The car is much snappier then before and feels a lot safer with the brakes and new tires.



There are still a few issues that maybe you could give me some advice on.



1- They said they “couldn’t” set the fast idle properly and I noticed it was stumbling when cold this morning. It started OK but couldn’t maintain a good idle. They also say they have the rebuilt carbs fully leaned out and it’s still running rich according to their exhaust analyzer. Do these two problems suggest anything in particular?


JOHN!

There are particular problems with most of the rebuild kits -- which keep the main jet from travelling high enough to make the mixture lean enough. Did we rebuild the carbs? I cannot remember. The problem with the high idle is yet another problem -- either the throttle discs are not closing far enough or there is a leak between the carbs and the manifold. Tell me more about the rebuild.







2- They adjusted the valves and put in 5 new valve stems, but I would swear the engine is “rattling” even than before – although not all of the time. It rattles when you’re “pulling” after upshifting, then it quiets out. It hasn’t used and oil in the 150 miles and it does have good compression and good oil pressure. I have heard that all MGs “rattle.” Do you think they got the adjustment wrong or do you think the rockers are just too worn to adjust? Or is it true that rattling is normal?

Well, the engine shouldn't rattle at all, of course, but many do. Some have what appears to be a gearbox rattle, evidenced at full throttle -- a noise transmitted through the gear lever remote control housing. Then, there is the rattle from low octance. And worst, there is the rattle from faulty rod bearings. Are you keeping a solid 60# of oil pressure on the road? Let me know!



John


BrakesBrake Line John,
I have a question for you. I have a friend of mine that owns a TD.
On the front brake where the brake line runs from one cylinder to the
next, the line split. I replaced the line. On the replacement line I
double flared the steel line. The old line that came out had a bell type
flare. It is working fine now but, I am concerned this may cause a
problem in the future. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,
Larry
Larry!

You are describing the double flare and the bubble flare. Both of
these flares allow a double thickness of steel tubing between the nut and
the seat. In comparison, a single flare has only one thickness of tube
between the gland nut and the seat. Double and bubble flares are
interchangeable except that only double flares are used on the male ends of
later style brake hoses (front MGA, MGB, rear MGB). The creation of the
double flare requires a bubble flare as the first step.

Hope this helps!

John
BrakesSqueaky BrakesMr. Twist

1. What are squeaky brakes a sign of in a TD?

The brakes stop the car great. There are no signs of fluid leakage. And it doesn't happen all the time. But there's definitely a "sometimes" squeak in the right front as you come to a complete stop. It seems loudest on hot, dry days.

The brakes were off and adjusted by a shop last spring and they said they were good at that time. That was 5500 miles ago.

2. Thanks. I think you hit it on the head. I do hear it on hot days.

Oh yeh, how do you get those drums off? I tried that once and gave up. Is it different than an old American car? I know that I watched Greg do it at the seminar and he had it off in no time, but I couldn't figure it out.

Also, I need to do brakes for a friend who has a TD with wires. Is that a lot different?

John
John!

1. In disc brakes, the squeal is caused by a glazing of the pad and rotor. I suspect the same is true here. It's usually caused by light use and is worse when the temperatures are hot!

Fix this by removing the drum (not so easy on a TD!), sanding the inside drum surface with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper to remove the glaze, and then sanding the shoes to get the glaze off them, too.


2. Remove the dust cap, remove the nut (the RH side of the car has a RH thread; the LH side of the car has a LH thread -- they tighten in the direction of wheel rotation.

Back off the brakes ALL the way.

Use a "puller" on the three studs and place the screw against the stub axle.


John
BrakesRebuilding MC for Midget As I am rebuilding the brake master cylinder on my 74 Midget -a new one
costs over $200 and a rebuild kit is $20- I find I cannot remove the snap
ring holding the piston due to how far it is in the cylinder and any
normal pair of pliers do not have tips long enough to reach it. According
to the workshop manual there is a specific tool #18G1112 to reach this
clip. Do you have any idea where I might find one of these?

Thank you for your time,
Paul
Paul!

You are attempting one of the most difficult rebuilds! Make
certain that you do not scratch the bore or the piston. Cleanliness and
polish is CRITICAL.

Purchase two metalworking layout scribes (we call them 'dentist
tools" in my shop). With your associate training a light down the bore,
work the ears of that internal snap ring inwards and bring the ring up and
out . With this method, it truly easy!

You'll have more difficulty removing the pin which locks the two
pistons together. Fashion a simple holder from some wood -- and DON'T lose
the pin!

Good luck!

John

BrakesMG Brake Rebuild GuideJohn,

1. Must be the hoses. I backed the brake switch/adjustment screw all the way
off and still had problems. I even when as far as removing the brake presure
warning housing (5 port brass setup) and cleaned it. Strange that there
wasn't any issues before the MC rebuild and brake bleed. I guess too much
brakes is better than no brakes.

Thank you John. I'll get those flex lines replaced. Would rerecommend doing
all 4, front and back?

Another question, suspension. I have the rear shock conversion setup. The
car doesn't ride very stiff and so I was looking into getting new leaf
springs for the rear, but I'm not sure what to do for the front. Is it true
that I can had a heavier weight oil to the front shocks to stiffen up the
ride? Or do I need to look into new stiffer front coils? for a 74 RWA, what
leaf springs would you recommend?


2. Thank you, this definetly helps. If I can pickup some rear lever shocks for
a decent price, I'll get rid of the tubes. The tubes were on the car when I
bought it. After looking at the car I think the ride higth is good and it
looks level. I want to try the heavier oil in the front levers. For the
life of me, after looking at the setup, I cannot figure out how to
add/remove the oil? I have the shop manuals, but I cannot find anything
walking me through changing the oil on them. What is the correct method?

Richard

Richard!

1. Use factory hoses unless you opt for those stainless steel lines.
The stainless lines flex less and make the pedal harder than it was
originally. I don't know the price difference.

On your suspension. The springs control the ride height. The
shocks control the compression and rebound speed.

Look at your Midget from the side. Do the wheel arches run
concentric to the wheels? If so you have no spring problems. Or, measure
from the ground, through the center of the wheel, to the bottom of the wheel
arch. All four corners should be the same. Normally, the leaf spring on
the driver's side collapses first. This causes the car to pivot on a line
from the driver's front wheel and the passenger rear wheel. This causes the
passenger front to rise.

If the car sits horizontally, DO NOT change the springs! On top of
that, the supply of springs right now is of erratic quality - so your
original springs are the better springs.

I am no fan of replacement, add on, tube type shocks. Those lever
shocks work just fine. If you want to stiffen their action you can purchase
valves (very expensive), or you can drain them and refill them with heavier
oil. We use a 50 weight hydraulic oil with a seal sweller and an anti
foaming agent. As long as the shock is not faulty (failed seals or sloppy
axle), then this stiffer fluid trick is the nuts.

Put those tube shocks on eBay and use the money for something
worthwhile!


2. Changing oil the in the shock requires that you remove it from the
vehicle. Then, remove the main valve -- be careful, there are a couple of
springs. Then, remove the backing plate (eight screws). Do NOT tear the
gasket! Use a gasket scraper, putty knife, something, to lift the gasket
from the body or the plate -- but don't tear it!

I usually flush out the unit with some carb cleaner or mineral
spirits. Then, fill the reservoir and replace the plate. Place the unit in
your vise with the hole for the valve upright. Drool oil into the valve and
piston assy while stroking the arms SLOWLY! Moving the arms too quickly
will aereate the fluid. Overfill and screw the valve back in.

Done.

Hope this helps.

John

Brakes John,

I talked with you two days ago about my 79B master brake cylinder and the repair kits. Just as you said I did have an 'O' ring stuck in the cylinder by the pressure differential unit. When that 'o'ring came out a plastic sleeve also came out. Where on the pressure
differential unit does the plastic sleeve go in regards to that 'O' ring that I had to hook out.

Question 2: Is there a brass washer needed when refitting the pressure warning switch to the break cylinder? None came in the repair kit or with the new warning switch.

Questrion 3: After putting the unit back on the car and hooking up all the brake lines when we go to bleeding the lines brake fluid drips from the pressure warning switch.

What am I doing wrong?


Bob


Bob!

The warning light switch is not designed to hold back brake fluid pressure. If there is a problem with that shuttle valve, fluid will drip out of the switch.

There are two types of shuttle valves. Each requires a different diameter O ring. Either you fitted the wrong O rings - or - you sheared or cut one of the O rings on re-installation. You will need only to remove the master
cylinder, remove the shuttle valve, and carefully examine the O rings. Study, too, the diagram that came with the master cylinder kit.

After you have fitted the correct O rings, or, after you have purchased new O rings to replace the sheared one(s), refit the master cylinder, bleed it, and THEN fit the brake warning light switch.

Care, cleanliness, patience, and assembly lube (we use Sli-glide from NAPA) are all important when rebuilding this master cylinder.

Hope this helps!

John
BrakesBrake Master Cylinder OverhaulJohn,

I talked with you two days ago about my 79B master brake cylinder and the repair kits. Just as you said I did have an 'O' ring stuck in the cylinder by the pressure differential unit. When that "o'ring came out a plastic sleeve also came out. Where on the pressure differential unit does the plastic sleeve go in regards to that 'O' ring that I had to hook out.

Question 2: Is there a brass washer needed when refitting the pressure warning switch to the break cylinder? None came in the repair kit or with the new warning switch.

Questrion 3: After putting the unit back on the car and hooking up all the brake lines when we go to bleeding the lines brake fluid drips from the pressure warning switch.

What am I doing wrong?


Bob
Bob!

The warning light switch is not designed to hold back brake fluid pressure. If there is a problem with that shuttle valve, fluid will drip out of the switch.

There are two types of shuttle valves. Each requires a different diameter O ring. Either you fitted the wrong O rings - or - you sheared or cut one of the O rings on re-installation. You will need only to remove the master
cylinder, remove the shuttle valve, and carefully examine the O rings. Study, too, the diagram that came with the master cylinder kit.

After you have fitted the correct O rings, or, after you have purchased new O rings to replace the sheared one(s), refit the master cylinder, bleed it, and THEN fit the brake warning light switch.

Care, cleanliness, patience, and assembly lube (we use Sli-glide from NAPA)are all important when rebuilding this master cylinder.

Hope this helps!

John
BrakesLeaky Master CylinderJohn:

I have replaced the pipe and hose connecting the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder on my chrome bumper 1974 MGB. However, not all of the air can be bled out of the clutch hydraulics. I have found brake fluid leaking where the pipe attaches to the clutch master cylinder.

I've removed and reattached the pipe at the master cylinder several times. The threads appear to be fine. I can tighten the securing nut down to the point where there is not any play between the pipe and the fitting inside the clutch master cylinder. Applying a non-hardening thread sealer to the threads has not stemmed the flow of fluid where the pipe threads enter the clutch master cylinder body. I'm concerned about stripping the threads because of the amount of torque needed to tighten the securing nut. The pipe was purchased from one of the major MGB parts suppliers.

I believe the master cylinder's internals to be ok. I started this project upon finding a leaky clutch hose. While removing the old hose, the clutch pipe broke where it attaches with the hose. The new hose is not leaking at
either of its attachment points.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

Sincerely,

George
George!

The banjo fitting at the rear of the clutch master cylinder is sandwiched between two copper washers. Ensure those are there. The steel line should fit snugly into the banjo fitting. Here's what to do first.

Loosen the steel line from the banjo fitting. Working through the hole in the firewall may be an access -- working behind the master cylinder may be another. Use a 7/16" line wrench. Then, loosen the banjo bolt. Back off the bolt to make certain the two washers are there. Now, retighten the fitting -- don't strip it out (as you have cautioned yourself) but get it REALLY tight! Then, tighten the steel line. If this fails, there must be a problem with the steel line, or there's dirt or something where the steel line is fitted into the banjo fitting.

Hope this helps.

John
BrakesBrake Master Cylinder ConversionJohn

I have a 1967 MGB-GT that I am restoring. The question I have is -- should I, or would you recommend that I change from a Single Line Brake Master Cylinder to a Dual Line MC (without servo). The installed MC is a single line unit but needs replacing (tin can rusty and leaking as well as rusty internals). I will also be replacing the rear wheel cylinders as well as the front calipers. I know new/extra brake lines will be needed as well as a pressure valve assembly. I guess I'm thinking of the safety side of things - If I lose fluid from one side I would have at least one half of the braking system to stop me. I saw several early MGBs that had converted to dual lines at MG2006. I looks pretty straight forward to make this change. I guess also I would need to change the brake light switch from the 4-way union to the pedal box - is this correct?

Thanks

Kent

Kent!

The prospect of losing ones brakes is horrific indeed, but I can tell you from 35 years experience driving and servicing MGs, that this hardly ever occurs. And, nearly always, it's easy to detect a problem with the brakes before a full failure. So, from my vantage, changing to a dual circuit system is not necessary. I have driven my 1962 MGA since 1976 and have never experienced a brake failure. That's not to say that a couple of times the brakes have felt pretty bad -- but they've never "gone out."

If you were to change, you'll need to move the wiring for the brake lights up to the pedal box. Simply salvage the pieces you need from a new model MGB.

Hope this helps!
BrakesBrake Fluid and BleedingJohn:

I read in the last MGBD about the problem with the clutch hydraulic system. The one question that you didn’t answer was the bleeding problem with that system. My wife had threatened me, and derided my mechanical ability, because of the bleeding system I was using kept
her pumping the clutch pedal for long periods of time. I finally found that if you take the slave cylinder off, it was usually off anyway for repair, blow the piston to the full out position, and fill it with fluid. Then, making sure the master cylinder reservoir is drained of most of the fluid, the slave cylinder still loose from the
engine is attached to the fluid line. Now, holding the cylinder so that the port is up, force the piston fully in. There is enough fluid in the slave cylinder to fill the line, and flush any air into the master cylinder, and up and out the way air wants to go.

After fighting the leaks with silicone brake fluid, I have now changed to Valvoline full synthetic brake fluid which seems to be avery good alternative. Also, NAPA now carries a very good brake and caliper grease, “Stay Lube Synthetic Brake and Caliper Grease”. It is compatible with all paints and rubbers, and has a good tack to
stay in place and not bleed. So far, seems to work well keeping moisture out of the aluminum T brake cylinders.

Dan

Dan,

Thanks for the note and the updates about the synthetic fluid.

When I'm bleeding a clutch, I use the following technique:

Remove the bleeder and use your finger;
finger off, pedal down
finger on, pedal up
wait twenty seconds -- during this time the vacuum in the mc bore draws fluids from the reservoir
finger off, pedal down
finger on, pedal up
wait twenty seconds .....

Continue this way for four to six bleeds, then when a gurgle of fluid bursts from the bleeder hole, refit the bleeder and use that instead of your finger.

This technique is quick and has served me well for 25+ years!

John
BrakesPressure SwitchJohn,
Now my question, do you see a problem if I leave out the pressure switch on the dual pressure valve distribution block? Just put a short bolt in instead? The 'push to test' switch on the dash has failed and is useless at best. I am upgrading the braking system on a resurrected '65 B and plan to use the newer master cylinder. OH, I an grafting on the front end from a '71 and it has the mounting hole for the distribution block on the left fender, so it will be easy
to install the newer system.
Thanks, John

Geoff
Geoff!

A short bolt,. 3/8-24 x 1/2" will be just fine. The shuttle valve will not leak switch in or out, as there are O rings on the piston within. Yet, to prevent any failure, that bolt will do the trick.

John
BrakesFaulty BrakesDear John,


I am renewing my brakes on my 1969 MGB Roadster MarkII , which I have owned since new.
I sent the the brake master cylinder to White Post restorations for rebuilding and when returned , I installed the unit bled the brakes , but would not hold pressure. I sent it back, they renewed again. I installed again. Still no luck. I bought a completely new master brake cylinder from Victoria British, installed it. Same problem , brake pedal goes to floor, ( will not hold pressure?). The only thing that is left to be renewed is pressure valve assembly. this is the dual line system. the pressure valve assembly looks like a brake line union mounted to the inside front fender.

Could this be not functioning properly and therefore not holding pressure, i.e.. firm pedal feel. I bled the brake lines as the MGB shop manual describes, so I do not think it is air in the brake lines. And I have NO leaks of brake fluid.


Thanking you for your reply to my question.


Help!

Best regards Barry
Dear Barry,

I cannot believe that two master cylinders are faulty, so the
question is: What's wrong with the brakes.

Let me go through some of the common faults:

If the rear cylinders leak, they're faulty. If the rear cylinders
are faulty, they leak. If they do not leak, they're OK.

If the brake warning light block, the shuttle valve, leaks, it's
bad. If it doesn't leak, it's OK.

The front calipers must be installed with the bleeders UP so that
all the air is expelled when bleeding. This may be your problem. Again, if
the calipers leak, they're faulty; if they do not leak, they're good
(unless, of course, they're frozen, but that's yet another problem).

Bleed the rear cylinders first -- the one farthest away from the MC
first (the left one). Once you've expelled the air, then adjust up the rear
brakes. Then, bleed the fronts.

Give me a call! In any case, perhaps you do need a new brake
warning light assy, but unless it's leaking, you do not.

Hope this helps!

John
BrakesSquealing Disc BrakesGood Day John,
I spoke with you 2-3 weeks ago about squaling rear brakes and you suggested that the noise was probably coming from the front disc brakes. The noise could be eliminated by taping duct tape to the back side of the pads which I did. Unfortunately the squeal was not totally eliminated although the squal was less pronounced. I should add that the noise was gone when the brakes were hot.

Not completely satisfied with this fix, I found a Permatex product that claimed to eliminate disc brake squeal. Called "Ultra Disc Brake Lube" it is a synthetic lubricant used to lubricate pins, slides, bushings, pistons, rubber sleeves and seals. ALSO PREVENTS DISC SQUEAL. At $1.49 a package, I gave it a try and so far, it is working well.

I thought I would pass this information on. Thanks for your help and advice. It is always well received.

Best Regards
Ron
Ron,

Thanks so much for the heads up. We had a TR6 in here a couple of weeks ago that gave a headache when you drove it (or rather, when you stopped it) because it squealed so badly. One of my guys, as it turns out, had some product as you've described and placed multiple layers on the back of the pads, curing it with the propane torch between applications. But, in the end it did work.

Thanks so much for getting back with me!

John
BrakesBrake Detection SwitchJohn,

1969 MGB

Brake detection switch leak problem:
Break fluid is leaking out of the brake detection switch by the wires,
(not at the threads) of the 5-way union/pressure valve assembly. My
question is can just the switch be replaced, the union/assembly or does
the whole union/assembly and switch need to be replaced.

Thank you.

Keith
Keith,

The brake warning light valve body is the problem. There are two
little O rings in there, one or both of which are leaking. You have three
solutions:

Remove the switch and replace the switch with a very short 3/8-24
bolt and copper washer so it will no longer leak. Of course, the brake
warning light will not work.

Remove the entire block, open it up and replace the O rings.

Purchase a rebuilt unit (we sell them for $70) and fit that.

Hope this helps!

John
BrakesMGC Brake BoosterI picked up a 69 MGC roadster last fall that had been stored for 5 years. I am gradually working toward having it back on the road. Right now I am trying to minimize expenses until I can actually drive it and completely evaluate it.

It has dual Girling brake boosters, both of which are leaking fluid into the vacuum chamber. I have been told that the Girling boosters are bad and I should switch to Lockheed. I've also seen a C converted to a single booster. What is your experience with the Girling boosters? Any other advice concerning these boosters?
There is nothing inherently wrong with the Girling boosters. The repair price, however, is a stunning $700 each, or so, from Whitepost Restorations, Whitepost, VA. The advantage of the Lockheed boosters is that they're "only" $500 or so. Now is it not necessary to have the boosters rebuilt by Whitepost if the bores are OK and don't need sleeving -- but to find out you've got to disassemble them -- and find the repair kits.

You can fit a complete pedal box assy from a 1975 - 1980 MGB into the MGC as the bore diameter of the master cylinder is smaller than the original MGC cylinder, therefore reducing pedal effort. However, with this arrangement, you cannot fit the factory original air cleaners.
BrakesMGB Faulty BrakesI am renewing my brakes on my 1969 MGB Roadster MarkII , which I have
owned
since new.

I sent the the brake master cylinder to White Post restorations for
rebuilding and when returned , I installed the unit bled the brakes ,
but
would not hold pressure. I sent it back, they renewed again. I installed
again. Still no luck. I bought a completely new master brake cylinder
from
Victoria British, installed it. Same problem , brake pedal goes to
floor,
( will not hold pressure?).

The only thing that is left to be renewed is pressure valve assembly.
this
is the dual line system. the pressure valve assembly looks like a brake
line
union mounted to the inside front fender.

Could this be not functioning properly and therefore not holding
pressure,
i.e.. firm pedal feel. I bled the brake lines as the MGB shop manual
describes, so I do not think it is air in the brake lines. And I have NO
leaks of brake fluid.
I cannot believe that two master cylinders are faulty, so the
question is: What's wrong with the brakes.

Let me go through some of the common faults:

If the rear cylinders leak, they're faulty. If the rear cylinders
are faulty, they leak. If they do not leak, they're OK.

If the brake warning light block, the shuttle valve, leaks, it's
bad. If it doesn't leak, it's OK.

The front calipers must be installed with the bleeders UP so that
all the air is expelled when bleeding. This may be your problem. Again,
if
the calipers leak, they're faulty; if they do not leak, they're good
(unless, of course, they're frozen, but that's yet another problem).

Bleed the rear cylinders first -- the one farthest away from the MC
first (the left one). Once you've expelled the air, then adjust up the
rear
brakes. Then, bleed the fronts.

Give me a call! In any case, perhaps you do need a new brake
warning light assy, but unless it's leaking, you do not.
BrakesBleeding The BrakesHope you had a nice holiday. Got my car home this weekend. The brake and clutch pedals went right to the floor and didn’t come back any to quick. Topped off the fluid (the master was dry), opened the bleeder on the clutch slave and had my daughter pump the hell out of the clutch. All I got was some fluid running out of the bleeder but no fluid moving out of the master. The pumping of the clutch didn’t have any effect on how quickly the fluid moved out of the slave.



Is this an obvious master cylinder rebuild? If so, I may give it a try myself but its nice to know I have you as a backup. Approx. cost for you to rebuild?

After 15 years of storage the best best is to rebuild the master cylinder -- that's for sure. But the bleeding technique is important, too. Follow these steps.

Fill the master cylinder
Remove the bleeder from the slave
Depress the clutch pedal
Place index finger on bleeder hole
Foot off the pedal
Wait twenty seconds
Finger off
pedal down
finger on
pedal up
wait twenty seconds
and continue this repeat until you have a good burst of fluid -- usually about five strokes.
THEN
fit the bleeder and bleed several more times, cracking the bleeder loose instead of using your finger.

BrakesBrake FluidI know you have had this questions before many times! I have
a 1979 MGB, what type of brake fluid do i use, will CASTROL LMA
DOT 4 work???? and what type of rubber dose the 1979 mgb use in
the brake system
The Castrol LMA is the PERFECT brake fluid for your car. I don't
know what type of rubber, Viton, neoprene, or whatever is in those
cylinders. I do know that silicone fluids can cause those pieces to swell.
But the DOT 4 Castrol is the good fluid!
BrakesBrake Light SwitchI have just purchased a B manufactured 11.74
The brake lights are inoperative but do not need
relamping. I have read all the posts regarding switch
position and pedal free play but nothing in there (or
any other manual that I have) about replacing the
switch itself.
I am guessing the seat needs to be removed so you can
squirm in under the dash but is there anything else
that needs attention? Is there a hydraulic line
connected there that could possibly leak?
Are you in for a treat or what!! The brake light switch is located on
the cover of the brake master cylinder box, under the bonnet, right in front
of both master cylinders. You'll need a 9/16" wrench to loosen the jam nut.
Use a small amount of grease to lubricate the threads on the new switch, fit
the jam nut, and screw the switch into the hole until you achieve that 1/2"
of freeplay.

BUT -- just before you do this, disconnect the switch from the wiring
loom and connect the two loom wires together (GREEN and GREEN/BLACK). Turn
on the ignition and the brake lights should be shining brightly. If not,
you've got another problem.
BrakesRear Brake DragPlease assist with the following problem I have on my 1971 MGB.

Car has just been totally rebuilt from ground up, it has been sitting for
2 or 3
months.

Finally I go for a drive only about 8 to 10 miles and when I get back the
rear end
feel like it is on fire, the heat coming through to the wheels seems
excessive.

I have had the diff totally re-built and the rear brakes.

Seems the brakes might be sticking, please let me know if you think this
might be
the problem and how to fix, the hubs were so hot you could not touch them.
It is not uncommon, after a brake job, for the rear brakes to drag.
Here are some things you can do:

1) Exercise the handbrake cable -- find two buddies to help you
out. Slacken the handbrake adjusting nut to the end of the threads (under
the handbrake handle). Disconnect the handbrake cable from the left hand
(nearside) brake lever and grasp the fork with a pair of vise-grips. One
person is inside the car to pull the handle up; one person is at the left
rear, vise-grips in hand to pull the cable off; and the third is working the
grease gun, pumping grease into the cable as the other two move the cable in
and out about 100 times. At the end of this exercise, the cable should be
really free.

2) Adjust up the brakes, using a 1/4" square socket. First, back
the adjusters all the way out (towards the center of the car), then grease
the threads, then run the adjusters in as far as you can turn them
(obviously, don't get then so tight that you break them off!), then back
them off, quarter turn by quarter turn until the drum "just" runs free.
When the brakes are all bedded in, the distance between fully locked and
fully free should be 1/4 turn -- in practice it's usually two or three.

3) Then, adjust up the handbrake so that the handle is at a
comfortable height for you when it's fully tight. The workshop manual calls
for two or three clicks -- which is fine for you RHD guys, but waaay too low
for LHD.

4) Of course, there's always the chance that your rear brake lines
(the steel ones) are crushed and while you can get fluid into the cylinders,
the spring tension cannot get the fluid back into the master cylinder. Feel
the lines to make sure they're not crushed. Also, the flex lines go bad
after 15-20 years. Lastly, make sure that the brake light switch is
adjusted so that you have a full 1/2" of pedal freeplay (or the brakes will
be on all the time).
BrakesBrake Line CleaningI have following question, the previous owner of my 1971 MGB roadster painted the engine bay however he also painted the brake lines ( white ). How would you recommend to remove this from the brake lines? Without damaging the lines.
You have two options: 1) replace the lines; 2) clean the lines. I would choose to clean the lines as it's easier. The fittings on the ends are 7/16"AF and the lines are British/USA thread 3/8-24. Remove each line and clean them with either steel wool and/or medium grit sandpaper (I'd start with 180 grit and then go finer). To keep them from rusting, clear coat them with a clear enamel. Use a "touch" (difficult to convert this to metric!) of grease on the threads to ease re-assembly, but not so much as to contaminate the brake fluid.

You know that brake fluid removes paint more quickly than nearly any fluid, so pump the system dry before disassembling.
BrakesBrake Cylinder Sleeving and Brake Fluids A customer recently pointed out to me an entry in your Q & A Database
on which I'd like to offer a few comments. I'll paste it below for
your quick reference. I think you are aware that I have been
installing brass sleeves in brake cylinders for many years. I lay
not-so-modest claim to considerable expertise in the field.

I can think of no mechanical basis for a claim that brass sleeves leak
fluid, silicone or glycol, due to being too soft. Many Little British
cars, and others, use aluminum alloy cylinders that are softer than
the tempered brass normally used in sleeving. If softness caused
leaking, they all would leak.

Assuming correct assembly and smooth bores of proper size, any leaks
in sleeved cylinders, no matter whether with brass, stainless steel or
even aluminum, are due to incorrect installation of the sleeves. There
are many small shops which do sleeving locally, and whose operators
may or may not have any idea what they are doing. There are two such
shops close to me in northern California, and I have re-done a number
of their jobs due to leaking. I've also re-done a number of jobs done
by my chief competitor in Virginia. The failure rate of my own
sleeving work is almost zero, whether filled with silicone or glycol
fluid. Silicone is, as you say, far more prone to find an escape
route, but that route is most likely to be at line connections rather
than within the cylinder.

I agree with your comment that "the ONLY advantage to silicone fluid
is that it does not eat paint." It has a number of disadvantages, and
I never recommend it.
You'll remember that I sent quite a number of cores to your for
sleeving a year or so ago. I do appreciate you comments about the sleeving
and will include them in the technical database.

But, speaking of sleeving and your major competitor, give me some
clue about your prices. The cylinders we have done are the T type, single
bore; the MGA dual bore; the MGB tandem (two different bore sizes); and,
rarely, wheel cylinders.
BrakesTrouble Bleeding BrakesI am rebuilding the tandem cylinder on the MG but cannot get the brakes
to bleed correctly. (The clutch slave cylinder bleeds just fine.)
Looking at the flat, circle end of the plastic valve on the return
spring, I see a tiny groove above the horseshoe-shaped inner design.
Do the opening of the horseshoe and the groove have to be positioned a
certain way (up, straight down, etc) as I put the cylinder back
together?
John
says that if you are using silicone fluid the pedal feels funny. If you
are using real brake fluid it could be in your pedal freeplay
BrakesMGB Brake Pressure SwitchI found your You Tube video on the MGB Brake Pressure Switch useful in diagnosing the problem with my 73 MGB. My light works but I have brake fluid leaking from the center of the white plastic brake pressure switch you showed. I believe that my shuttle valve needs to be rebuilt.

I presume to get the shuttle valve out I remove the 5 brake line connectors and then the large nut/cover to get at the valve. Then replace the O-rings and put everything back together. Anything special about the O-rings or are they a standard part at NAPA? Any advice you can provide would be appreciated.
The brake failure switch is pretty easy to rebuild. The early ones used a lipped seal, but the later ones use O rings. They are simply fractional size O rings, but they must be compatible with brake fluid, of course. You can also simply fit a bolt into the switch hole (3/8-24) with a copper washer, and the valve will cease leaking externally. Of course, it's better to do the job right!
BrakesMGA Brake PressureI just changed all the brake cylinders and shoes in my 58 MGA. I have
bled over a quart of DOT3 (which it had before) through the system and
can find no bubbles on any of the brakes. I can pump up the brakes and
hold them, but after taking the pressure off, the brakes go right to
the floor. I am trying to get my car ready for the trip to Watkins
Glenn (Sept 8). The master cylinder is about 10 years old and was
working fine. I have been using an EZ-Bleed type system which seems
to work fine (but still work!).
Because you have a 1958, I will assume that it is a 1500, with drum
brakes in front and drum brakes in the rear.

Make certain that you have adjusted all six adjusters correctly:
Turn them until the wheel locks, then back off one click. Sometimes it is
difficult to control that "one click" in reverse. Gain mechanical advantage
by grasping the screwdriver with a wrench or vise-grips to give you more
control.

Make certain that the bleeder on the front brakes is at the front
cylinder and is pointed UP. Make sure that the cylinders on the front are
positioned so that the bottom shoe is pushed DOWN from the front cylinder.

If you are still experiencing problems, then squeeze each brake hose
in succession -- rear, left front, right front. After blocking off the
fluid from passing through (vise-grips, but not too tight!), judge the
change in the movement of the brake pedal. If all three hoses are crimped,
then the pedal should not move AT ALL!!!

If you rebuilt the master cylinder, make certain that the one way
valve is fitted to the rear of the brake cylinder bore, and not the clutch.

ClutchClutchIs there a any way to change a clutch in a 1969 Healey sprite without pulling the engineI'd like to tell you that there is an easier way, but there is not. Remove the bonnet, remove the radiator, and pull the engine. I would remove the gearbox at the same time. Change the oil seal at the back of the gearbox -- Oh, BTW, drain the gearbox before pulling or you'll end up in an oil swamp. Change all three clutch components -- pressure plate, disc, and release bearing -- plus, replace the release bearing fork bolt and bushing. You'll need a new exhaust gasket and this is a wonderful opportunity to change those lower radiator hoses. Plan to rebuild the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinders. You can rebuild the MC in place. Hope this helps.
ClutchClutch InstallationCan a clutch be replaced in an MGC-GT without removing the engine? thanks in advance for you reply It is possible to remove just the gearbox from an MGB if it's a standard box and not an overdrive. This is a very difficult job, but once learned it takes very much less time than pulling the engine. I cannot tell you if the same is true on an MGC. On the B, the cross member is removed, the remote control assy removed, and the gearbox is rotated -- moved back into the frame, then down and out. Are you a member of the MGC Register? Keith Sanders may know someone who knows far more about this than I do.
ClutchPricing, Stuck Clutch PlateHi John,

I met you when you looked at my Midget at a roving tech session at the 1999 MG Heartland in St. Joseph, MO. Could you either give me pricing advice on an MGC, or if you get this type of question too much, maybe refer me to a site that might have some information.

I'm interested in an MGC that I haven't looked at yet other than from a distance, but would like to get some guidelines before I go. He says it:

hasn't run in three years,
the clutch plate is stuck,
has some rust,
has hard top and multiple tonneau covers,
He wants to start around 3,000,
has owned it for 20 years.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you. S.F., Sincerely, Jeff Storms

JEFF!

Make sure you go out and drive the car BEFORE you drive it! You know, you can free up that clutch plate by the following method: Start the engine and get the car warm. Point the MGC down the road or down the driveway, put it into second, turn the key and start it up. As you begin to drive down the road, hit the throttle and the clutch pedal at the same time. The clutch will probably break loose quickly -- but sometimes it takes a mile of driving like this. Obviously, the owner should do this! If he wants a quick verbal course, have him call during my technical hour (1-2pm EST Monday-Friday).

Just offhand, if the rust is not too great (around the doglegs...) AND the car runs and drives, then $3,000 sounds very fair.

I have cc'd Tom Boscarino and Keith Sanders. They know more about MGCs than all others combined.
ClutchMGA Conversion John, As you may recall I spoke to you on the telephone a few days ago about my MGA conversion problems. The ressure plate was rubbing on the bell housing. I have found out since there are two manufacturers for the pressure tes. The Borg&Beck is much smaller than the Quintel Hazell. wraping my pressure plate to a
Borg&Beck solved my problem. (Both also have the same part number.)
Thought you might be interested in this.
Adrian Haemmig

Adrian! Thank you very much for your information. I knew that I'd heard of this problem before, but couldn't remember what the problem was. I wonder about the Laycock unit -- not that I would use it. The University Motors shop rule is: Always use NEW BORG and BECK clutches. Thanks for letting me know!
SAFETY FAST!
ClutchClutchMr. Twist:
I currently have a 1980 MGB. When you press the clutch pedal....is it normal for it to travel all the way to the floor before it will allow shifting? The car will not shift when on a hill ( after stopping)....it seem the clutch is not disengaging (gears grind). Is this because the linkage is weak? The brake pressure is too weak .....wonder if these problems are related. Other than the hill problem....it runs fine except I don't think I should have to press the pedal all the way to the floor to shift.
John Griffen

I believe the problem you have is simply a failure to disengage. Most often, a rebuild of the clutch hydraulics will solve this problem. Rebuild the master cylinder in place (it's not necessary to remove it from the car)
and DO NOT HONE the cylinder. Rebuild the slave cylinder while either hanging from the clutch slave hose or on the bench -- you may hone this cylinder. Use Lockheed original parts. Bleed the system in the following manner: Remove the bleeder screw and use your finger for the first five
bleeds: Finger off, pedal down, finger on, pedal up, wait TWENTY SECONDS, repeat. After those first five bleeds, replace the bleeder screw and bleed without waiting the twenty seconds. It is strange that this problem is
more evident on a hill and for that I do not have a handy answer -- but try the hyrdraulics.
ClutchClutchJohn,

I thought you might like some feedback concerning a problem I
described to
you in a phone conversation last month. To recap, I was having problems
obtaining proper operation of the clutch hydraulic circuit. I had
installed a
new clutch assembly, new master cylinder, and new slave cylinder. I
initially
bled the system using an EZBLEED system, then followed with the procedure
recommended in your tech manual. I still was not able to obtain what I
considered to be an acceptably firm clutch pedal.

Upon inspection of the new Lockheed slave cylinder, I noticed that
the
bleed screw was located on the bottom half of the unit. I expected to see
the
bleed screw near the top of the slave cylinder, as it was on my previous
Lockheed slave cylinder. I un-bolted the slave cylinder so that it could
be bled
with the bleed screw in the top position. After bleeding in this manner,
my
clutch hydraulics now seem to be performing properly with about 3/8"
pushrod
travel.

A call to Moss Motors revealed that I should have removed the bleed
screw
in the new slave cylinder from its connection and relocated to the
alternate
threaded opening in the slave cylinder before installation. I had
incorrectly
assumed that it was set up properly from the factory. I'll definitely
remember
to check this next time.

John McCarthy

JOHN!

We just had the same thing happen in the shop (although it was a
TR6). One of the guys was bleeding and bleeding but the pedal never seemed
quite right. I yelled from across the shop floor, "Is the bleeder on the
top or the bottom?" He responded that the bleeder was on the bottom ("but
it came in that way, Boss"). He switched it and two bleeds later the clutch
worked like new! In some of the most bizarre cases, we've dropped the
cylinder AWAY from the gearbox, bled it, and re-installed!

So, you're not alone!
Clutch1960 MGAHello John

I have rebuilt the engine of my 1960 MGA. In the
process I replaced the clutch plate, release bearing,
and front and rear transmission seals. The flywheel
was also refaced.
I installed the engine and transmission and the engine
runs perfectly, but the transmission jams so I can't
shift. When the motor is shut off the stickshift will
go into all gears. When the motor is running the only
gear I can shift into is 2nd, and then there's a
rumbling sound from the transmission. The other gears
grind if I try to shift. I think the clutch is
engaging properly because the pushrod at the clutch
slave extends and the motor rpm's drop about 100rpm
when the clutch pedal is depressed. If the motor is
shut off and the shifter is put into 1st gear, and the
motor is restarted with the clutch depressed, a
rumbling sound is heard from the transmission but it
won't shift out of 1st gear.
Can any adjustments be made without having to pull the
engine and transmission out again? It's a big pain in
the butt reinstalling the transmission.
Is it possible to remove the plate on the side of the
transmission and make adjustments if possible.
Cold weather has come and it's difficult to pull the
car outside to remove the engine/transmission.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

Bob!
Judging from your descriptions, you've still got the car on
jackstands. Put it on the ground and go out and drive it around the block a
couple of times. Depress the clutch frequently, just to exercise the
pressure plate, disc, and hydraulics. Sometimes, at the point of
installation, there is a burr, high spot, wave, something, on the clutch
disc that does not allow the clutch to disengage. You may have to pull the
engine again -- but don't do it until you've given the MGA a field test!

The clutch slave rod should move 3/8" to achieve disengagement (I
know it looks like one inch, but it's NOT).

Hope this helps!

John
ClutchWorking on Clutch Freeplay at the Master CylinderHi John:

I believe we have our virus/worm problem worked out and you should receive this "clean." This is just a re-transmission of the last e-mail which your server rejected.

Thanks for the follow-up. I haven't done anything yet (except for replacing my 20 year old SU pump!). What's your opinion on working on the clutch freeplay at the master cylinder (my last question to you)? I will probably write a letter to the shop owner, referencing your and Mike Ash's theories, and see what he says. Since any proper fix will probably require removal of the engine/transmission, my guess is that he won't be interested in fixing the problem.

Is it likely that sleeving the master cylinder now would cure the problem? I have no loss of fluid and braking action is fine. Thanks again.

Frank Lindauer

Frank!

What did you ever find out about that clutch?

John
Hi John:

Thanks for your continued interest in my clutch problem. My mechanic checked freeplay at the slave cylinder and at the master cylinder, taking out any he considered excess. He also replaced a clevis pin with slight wear at the mcylinder push rod. The improvement is slight, but not complete. He emphasized that moving the shifter into first gear must be done slowly and deliberately (which I do anyway), but there is still often a slight "crunch."

Maybe I'm expecting too much. You have recommended all along rebuilding the master cylinder. If some fluid is getting past the seals, resulting in less pressure, I guess, wouldn't there be signs of leakage at the external dust cover? There is none.

Frank Lindauer

Frank! You can take all of the freeplay out, with the exception of the last little "tunk," which translates to about 1/2" at the pedal. Hope your guy can get it right!

John

Hi John:

This seems like a never-ending story! I wrote a nice, polite letter to the mechanic citing your and Mike Ash's theories. He has agreed to take another look at the car to see if he can take out some extra free play in the linkages. But that scares me a bit as I know that if you take out enough free play you can eliminate the problem.

Up to a point, what is the danger of taking out freeplay at the master cylinder operating rod? I will also suggest rebuilding the master cylinder and see what he thinks about that. Thanks again for your interest.

Frank
ClutchMGB Pilot (spigot) bushingDear John,

When removing the clutch from my 1972 MGB, the pilot bush just fell out
of the end of the crank.

Is this supposed to happen? Should the bush (1" long) be replaced? Can
a new one be installed via careful tapping with a drift, or need it be a
pressed-on job?

Gearbox History: Engine and gearbox were removed so I can install a
rebuilt OD gearbox in place of the non-OD box. New clutch, release
bearing, fork bolt and bushing are included in my plans. I'd driven over
the past 20 years with the old box, putting up with no 3rd-gear synchro
when following an 80-mile cruise, the old box locked up suddenly in
traffic at about 30 mph. After a couple of hours, I was able to move
clutch & gears to get the "B" on a trailer to return home. Everything
worked, just not well. With engine idling in Neutral (and clutch pedal
up) there was a scraping noise like a bad release bearing. Noise went
away by pushing clutch pedal in. The clutch would engage in gear, but I
wouldn't trust it too far.

Hope this info helps. Can't wait for your knowledgeable response.

Thanks very much, Greg Soulsby



Greg!

The spigot bush or pilot bushing should be pressed TIGHTLY into the
rear of the crankshaft. Sometimes the crank appears slightly oversize, or,
more likely, the spigot bush slightly undersize. Fit a new bushing and use
a bit of Locktite bearing locker to glue it into place. Drive the bushing
in with a socket -- but BE CAREFUL as any lip on the inside diameter will
interfere with the free movement of the first motion shaft and cause it to
SQUEAL when it's cold!

My guess is that your MGB gearbox ran low on oil and the layshaft /
laygear bearings are galled or broken up. When you have the clutch pedal
released, several parts of the gearbox are turning -- the first motion
shaft, the laygear, and the three speed gears. The reason your box is noisy
is because bearings or bushings have failed -- and they're turning in
neutral. When you press on the clutch the gearbox comes to a stop -- hence
the noise disappears.

Hope this helps.

John
ClutchCost of New Clutch
John,
Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. John what would I be
looking at cost wise to have you rebuild the master and slave cylinder?
What is the cost of having a new clutch put in? Thanks again
A new clutch, hydraulics included, is about $700. The hydraulics alone are
about $125 or so. John

ClutchClutch for 71BI have a MGB '71 with the 1800 engine. If at all possible, I need to know how to find out the number of splines on the clutch. It is very oil soaked and needs replaced. I would like to keep driving until I get all the parts so I don't want to take it apart until then. Thanks PatPat!

Most likely you have a standard MGB clutch. Purchase ONLY a FACTORY NEW, BORG & BECK clutch (sold by AP), from Moss or whomever. The clutch kit comes with three pieces: the clutch disc, the , pressure plate, and the release bearing. The clutch disc has 23 splines!

In addition, you'll want the release bearing fork bolt and bushing -- and you'll want to rebuild the clutch hydraulics (master, slave, and slave hose).

If, indeed, the disc is oil soaked, you'll want a rear seal and the associated gaskets.

Good luck!

John
ClutchMidget Clutch BleedI am in the process of rebuilding my clutch hydraulic system. Thus far I've replaced the master cylinder, pipe, hose and slave. After I bleed the system I get very movement at the slave, so little that the clutch does not disengage. Any thoughts on what the problem might be?

Rich!

The clutch pushrod should move about 3/8" which really isn't very much! Is it possible that the clutch disc has rusted against the flywheel -- how long has the car been sitting since you last drove it?

Sometimes you can get the system working simply by going out and driving it! Point the Midget down the driveway, start it in neutral to warm it up, then turn it off, shift into first or second, and start it in gear. Drive around the block, depressing the clutch and the throttle at the same time -- that will break the disc loose (if that's the problem). Just driving and exercising the clutch sometimes makes it all start working.

Let me know what you find!

John
ClutchCar SlipsJohn,
I could use some help. On my way to mg meet in new jersey I ran into a car
I was going about 20 MPR before accident, I was able to continue on, but
noticed that once in awhile something would slip. I could rev motor back
and forth between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm without changing speed of car.
The only time it seems to happen is in 3rd or 4th gear when not in overdrive.
I hit hard enough to have motor move forward about 1/4" I could sure use
some ideas, insurance person will be out soon and I don't know what to
tell the person is wrong.
Thanks
Rich
Rich!

The overdrive is damaged. Consider these expenses:

Remove and refit the engine and gearbox -- about 10 hours at $72/hour (UML shop rate), so there's $720. Any time the engine is out, you MUST change the clutch -- that's another $200.

Rebuild the overdrive only, for about 4 hours, or $288 plus whatever is the fault (I suspect the cone clutch (sliding member) which Moss sells for about $400) plus some gaskets and O rings for about $100.

That's 720 and 200 and 288 and 400 and 100 or about $1700.

Hope this helps.

John
ClutchClutch BleedHi John,
I’m a new MGB owner. It’s a 1978 with 49,000 on it. I cannot get the clutch to bleed – I replaced the bleeder valve, and yet the gears still grind (unless I pump the clutch several tiems when I first get in the vehicle. Doe that mean I need a new hydraulic system?
Thanks,

Greg



Greg!
Failure to disengage is caused by a failure of the clutch hydraulics or the clutch itself. 99% of the time it's the hydraulics.

There is the master cylinder. If it leaks, it's bad. If it's bad it may not leak externally (just internally). There is the slave cylinder. If it leaks, it's bad. If it's bad, it leaks. There is the clutch hose. If it's bad it swishes as the fluid tries to move through it's restricted inner diameter and the clutch is slow to respond.

You can rebuild the master cylinder in place. Don't hone the cylinder, just replace the parts.

You can rebuild the slave in place, but it's always best to replace the slave hose.

When you go to bleed the system do so like this:

Use your finger as the bleeder for the first 5-10 bleeds. Finger off, pedal down, finger on, pedal up WAIT TWENTY SECONDS. Finger off, pedal down, finger on, pedal up WAIT TWENTY SECONDS. I wrote that twice just to be emphatic. After you've bled the system about five times or so you'll get fluid -- not air. Replace the bleeder instead of placing you finger back on the bleeder. Now, open bleeder, pedal down, close bleeder, pedal up, wait five seconds. After another five time you will have expelled all the air from the system.

Hope all this helps!

John



ClutchScreeching ClutchHi John:

I found you on the web.

I just had a new clutch installed on a 1977 MGB. It chatters a little when I rest my foot on the pedal and makes and intermittent screeching noise. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Frank

Frank!

First, explain your problems to the person/firm who replaced the clutch and ask them to make the job right! You paid for it!

The clutch pedal trembles because the thrust plate on the pressure plate is not running true -- not running perpendicular to the first motion shaft -- it's wobbling. This evidences itself by the pulsing clutch pedal. Your mechanic should have replaced the clutch with a NEW Borg and Beck pressure plate, disc, and release bearing.

The screeching you hear needs more explanation -- but IF it occurs when the car is sitting still with the clutch depressed, especially when the car is cold, then the spigot bushing is lipped.

Let me know how this works out for you.

John
ClutchClutch FailureHi John,
I have a 67 MGBGT with overdrive. Ever since I bought the car a few years back, the shifting has been less than stellar, especially going up and down from and to 2nd gear (nothing unusual there).

Recently, I discovered the clutch master cylinder was leaking, so I replaced it. At the same time, I replaced the line running from master to slave cylinder, and, for good measure, replaced the slave cylinder. This improved clutch operation and shifting considerably. Until the other day when my son went to drive it and couldn’t engage any forward gears.

Even though the clutch pedal feels solid when depressed, the gears still grind when I try to engage them, as if the clutch itself were still engaged. I went under the car and watched as my son worked the clutch pedal, and the slave cylinder appeared to be moving the release arm fine.

I’m fairly certain the previous owner worked on the clutch himself, which makes me think this could be a source of the problem (he did some front end work, and put the hubs back on the wrong sides. Didn’t notice this, and had a wheel come off. No major damage or injuries, thank goodness).

If the hydraulics appear to be working fine, is it likely that something has gone amiss with the clutch assembly?
Thanks very much for your time.

Kendall
Kendall!

A failure to disengage the clutch can be caused by faulty hydraulics (the usual case) or by a failure of the clutch disc. If, when you examine the clutch slave cylinder, you find a movement of 3/8" or more of the pushrod, then the hydraulics are doing their job.

The clutch disc can disassemble, leaving little pieces of fabric stuck between the pressure plate and disc, or between the flywheel and disc. Usually, you can free these pieces by starting the car in gear, clutch depressed.

But, it appears as though you'll have to R&R the engine to change that clutch. And, this is a perfect time to sort out the second gear synchronizer!

Hope this helps!

John
ClutchClutch HydraulicsJohn,


I was tempted to call about this problem, but thought that it might be one worth posting as others may have a similar problem. I have checked your site's and others' tech tips and have not seen a post similar to this issue. I have a 1970 MGB that I recently purchased in very good condition. Many parts have been replaced and it is a solid car and engine. We recently took it on a 200-mile trip with no issues and excellent performance. A few weeks later, having sat in the garage unused during that time, I started it up and let it warm up for a short jaunt. Having been an MGB owner a few decade ago, I know to always check and top off all fluids before any outing and I did so in this case, in particular the clutch and brake reservoirs. We took off, running and shifting normally. One block from our house to the first stop sign, downshifting without problem. One more block to a 90-deg turn, and I note the clutch pedal feels VERY stiff. I complete the shift and have a 1 mile straight-away to the next stop sign. On trying to downshift at this point (maybe 2-3 minutes since we left the house), the clutch pedal is like a rock - immovable. Interestingly, once I put the gearbox into neutral (with engine off), I can now shift into any gear with no noise or grinding (with engine running), but it's as if all are the same as neutral (to clarify, the car doesn't move). Also note that there were absolutely no noises, grinding, or metal-on-metal sounds at all when this happened - the pedal just seemed to lock up. We towed it back home and unfortunately it sat there for 5 months due to lack of time and money. Today I started it up without problem, and found the master cylinder was dry, so I topped it up and tried to pump the pedal. Still stuck, but noticed leakage around the braided hose fitting that attaches to the slave cylinder. While it would be nice to replace both cylinders and the hose, that's a bit expensive. I disengaged the clutch pedal arm from the master cylinder by removing the connecting pin, and I'd say the master cylinder piston should have more movement than what I'm seeing, which I'd describe as "barely moving".
Also, the reservoir cap has a very slight crack in it, but enough to leak fluid when pressing the pedal, and I'm not sure that it should be air and pressure tight but that would seem to make sense. From your experience perhaps, any
idea as to what cylinder is more likely to be the problem (ie, maybe you replace 10 of one for every 1 of the other?).
Also, both rebuild kits have very few parts in them. I'm thinking that if I have a bad or jammed piston then a complete replacement would be in order. Is it worth rebuilding these cylinders, or only if they function but perhaps leak internally thus not keeping up sufficient pressure?

Thanks for your help!

- Herb
Herb,

Regarding the clutch hydraulics:

If the slave leaks, it's bad; if it's bad, it leaks. If it's not
leaking, it's OK.

If the master cylinder leaks, it's bad; BUT, it can leak internally
and you won't know it except that you cannot build up enough pressure to
move the release bearing fork.

The release bearing fork moves 3/8" to 7/16" when it's working. It
will look like much more, but put a ruler up against it and that's all it
moves.

If the slave hose gets plugged up (which they're all doing now) then
with your foot you can develop enough pressure to push the slave cylinder
out, but the pressure plate doesn't have enough force to push the slave back
in. So, the next time you use the clutch, the slave piston pushes out a
little more than it should, as it does the next and the next.... Finally,
the slave piston pops out of the slave cylinder, the fork jammed against the
back of the gearcase housing.

This is what I believe has happened to you. So, change the slave
hose.

Call for more information!

John
ClutchSlave CylinderI'm in the process of replacing clevis pin and slave cylinder pushrod in my 70 B. Im having some difficulty lining up the holes in the slave pushrod and the cluth lever. i have pushed it into the slave as far as it appears to want go and it is misaligned by approx half the diameter of the clevis hole.
Do I need to drainthe slave? I also tried to take the slave of housing and install pin but i can't align slave bolts to housing.

You should be able to push it way beyond what it actually moves.
ClutchMGA Comp Clutch@ 10 years ago you did a complete restoration on my 1960 MGA-and it still
looks great! Part of that restoration was the fitting of a diaphragm clutch
in place of the stock MGA clutch. About a year and a half ago I had a very
bad accident (not in the MG
The competition pressure plate sandwiches the clutch disc between the
pressure plate and the flywheel with much greater force than the standard
disc. The advantage at that time was that the comp MGB plate was more
fierce than the spring type cover offered for the MGA. The situation has
changed a bit. We now use the comp MGB clutch on all our MGB work as we've
had one, perhaps two, Borg&Beck covers exert too little pressure, allowing a
BRAND NEW clutch to slip! Other shops have not encountered this, but this
type of problem is SO expensive (we had to do the clutch again, for free,
for our customer), that we've moved to this comp clutch. Now, this new comp
clutch is not as stiff as the original comp clutch.

The way I see it, you have two options pretty easily available. Fit
a new MGB pressure plate; or send the master cylinder off for a rebuild and
ask for the rebuilder to use the smaller piston on the clutch side. That
would result in less pressure needed to push the slave, but you'd have to
push it farther.
ClutchRelease Bearing I wonder what would you say about the
difference of the MGB clutch release roller bearing and the carbon bearing.
There is a couple of pictures of an old stock I was able to find. Not
original spare but similar.
We use only the original Borg and Beck carbon release bearing. The
roller bearing appears to be better, but it is not. We nearly always use
factory or original style parts.
CoolingEngine OverheatingMany of my fellow B drivers here in Dallas, Tx echo my overheating problems with my ride. my ride being a 77 B it never seems to quite get to red but gets to close for my comfort maybe its due to our temp in this area. I had the radi cleaned and rotted out when I took off and replaced, also installed a new water pump elec fan works fine I have thought that maybe one could add more fins and a bigger tank thus expanding the capacity I am sure you have talked about this many times before so you might direct me to the proper location to read about your thoughts any help appreciated J CollinsJon, When the engine is tuned perfectly the best you can achieve is 1/3 of the energy at the flywheel leaving 1/3 in the radiator and 1/3 down the exhaust. When the car is not tuned perfectly, you'll get less at the flywheel and more into the radiator or down the exhaust. So, the first thing to do is to set the timing correctly. Lately I've dramatically changed the way I time our MGB engines. I now set them at 32 degrees before top dead center at maximum distributor advance -- around 4000 rpm, vacuum disconnected. You have twin cooling fans on your car. Ensure that these turn anti-clockwise as you face the front of the car or the air will be pushed forward. Even the newest MGB is now 32 years old. Radiators begin to lose their efficiency. A recore is very expensive at about $350; a new radiator is much less expensive -- but the new rads are much lighter than the old ones. They probably won't last as long. Water pumps always pump water. Sometimes they leak or growl, but they always pump (well, I've only seen three or four exceptions in 40 years), so the pump is not the problem. The size of the expansion tank is of no consequence as long as the cooling system remains full. Double check your temp gauge by using a pyrometer on the thermostat housing or on the front of the head just below the thermostat. a reading of 190 equals a vertical alignment of the temp needle. As long as the car does not boil over during operation then the engine is not "too hot." Hope this helps.
CoolingHot RunningJohn:

You may remember I am Willard Brown's brother and had my '67 MGB rebuilt last year by Peter McCarthey of Midnight Auto here in New Jersey. You were kind enough to be supportive when ever I had questions on the details of the engine rebuild.

I am a NAMGBR and have an additional question about engine temperature. From reading my MGB owners manual / shop guide I have learned that the operating temperature for an MGB engine should not be greater than 190F.

I am concerned because while operating my newly rebuilt engine at 65 - 70 mph the engine temperature has been in access of 190F. The temperature has gotten as high as 200F on short 45 mile highway run. This concerns me because the ambient temperature was only 72F. You may recall my mechanic suggested that the car would not require an oil cooler, so on reassembley no oil cooler was used. A new radiator, water pump, 160F thermostat, all the recommended insulation for the bonnet and around the radiator have been applied.

The rebuilt engine compression has been increased from 8:3:1 to 9:5:1. I have driven the car approximately 1400 miles.

Is it normal for the engine temperature to be 195F or 200F?

What can be done to correct this problem?

We have retard the fuel mixture and changed the timing, it has not help. It has been suggested to me that the engine needs 2000 miles to really break in and settle down and may run hot until then. Is that true? I do not want to burn up my rebuilt engine.

Do you have have any suggestions? Please reply as soon as possible, thank you.

Paul M. Brown

PAUL!

The newer gasoline seems to produce more heat than the old gasoline -- this may seem like an urban myth (perhaps it is), but many of the earlier MGs (with precise instrumentation) seem to run much hotter now than they did 20 years ago. I would not be concerned with 200F, but here are some things to check:

1) Test the temperature gauge itself for accuracy. Remove the bulb from the engine, put it into a pan of water, boil the water (with your propane torch), and see if the gauge is reading 212F.

2) Set the timing back correctly -- it should be 20 degrees BTDC at an idle of about 800.

3) Feel the radiator with your hand as the engine is running. The rad core should have the same temperature all the way across, yet it should be slightly cooler at the bottom than at the top. If you encounter a "stone cold" section, then you've found blocked tubes.

4) Run high octane gasoline -- you might try some octane booster for a long distance run to see if this makes a difference. I am so keen on keeping the compression ratio at 8:1 so that the mid-grade gasoline works well. I've found that higher compression ratios result in greater heat generation when used with mid-grade gasoline.

5) Do not waste time or money changing the water pump -- that is not the problem.

6) Moss sells this "water wetter" stuff (silicone, I believe) that reduces surface tension, thereby reduction the possible aeration of the coolant, and that can help dissipate the heat more quickly.

Hope some of this helps!
CoolingHot RunningHi guys, and greetings from down under in New Zealand.

Its another stinking hot summer here in Auckland, and the outside temperature gets up to around 28+ degrees. Not the kind of climate MGCGTs like for keeping the engine temperature down, and herein lies my problem.

My 68CGT is fully restored, and this includes a recored radiator far superior in cooling capacity than the original (so I'm told!). Still however I see the temperature gauge get up over 212 degrees in the traffic; the car gets so hot that the fuel evaporates in the carbie bowls despite the presence of a new heat shield and the fact that the exhaust is fully wrapped. I know the heat is doing damage to the car; I am very concerned about warping the head etc as these are only available on an exchange basis now.

The car is running a non standard eectric fan after the original one broke. This covers around 60% of the radiator surface (not enough!). I have 2 questions for you guys:

1 - how hot should these cars get - I am told normal running temperature even stuck in traffic should not exceed 190 degrees;

2 - can you suppy a very slim line electric fan to fit the car and cover a good % of the radiator surface? I don't imagine that UK owners have the same problems given its much hotter here, but the cars do run hot, so someone must have a solution for it. I had heard Kenlowe (?) did a fan?

Love to hear from you as I am getting desperate here and there may be one less CGT on the road at the rate I'm going....

Cheers

David Sellars
MG Car Club, Auckland
New Zealand.

DAVID!

Barrie Cartmell was here for our summer party in August -- and his car ran relatively cool all the way from Maryland to Grand Rapids (about 1000 miles). Just about when he wanted to return, it began to overheat. Finally, after trying EVERYTHING else, I removed the water hose from the hot water valve to the heater and placed a garden hose into the heater line and turned it on. This, somehow, blew air from a pocket in the head. The car INSTANTLY began running cooler. Is this your problem -- well, probably not.....

Double check your ignition timing -- I would think that 20 BTDC at idle would the MOST you should have.

You should be running at least a 185F thermostat; you should be running a 50/50 solution of antifreeze, although the boiling point can be raised by changing that to a 70/30 mixture (I think), and heat dissipation can be increased by the use of "Water Wetter" which is simply some silicone in the water (it gets rid of the bubbles).

The Kenlowe Fan is British, I think, and is probably available from Brown and Gammons in Baldock, Herts. It's probably available from Moss Motors in Goleta, CA, too.

Hope this little bit helps. You might consider joining the American MGC Register, both Tom and Keith's addresses are in the cc line.
CoolingHot RunningJohn,
Really enjoyed your summer party.
Recently bought a '57 MGA. It runs really hot, 185-195. It's very
noticible because the heat comes into the cockpit. Is this typical of
this model? I have removed the thermostat and put in the blanking ring.
I have replaced the radiator and flushed the engine with the Prestone
stuff. I am now questioning the water pump. Could the impeller be worn?
Also, I am wondering if the waterjackets are corroded after all these
years. Is there a way to diagnose the problem? Your thoughts would be
greatly appreciated.

Keith Lewalski

Keith! Nearly all MGA owners complain that their cars run "hot," yet few
of them really run "too hot." An operating temperature of 185 - 195 is
CORRECT!! Let's go through this: The temperature of the engine is AT LEAST
the temp of the thermostat. Fitting a 180 or 195 thermostat to the MGA is
not incorrect -- the engine wants to increase to operating temperature AS
QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE so that the mixture can be moved from rich to normal.
The UPPER end of the coolant temperature is determined by the ability of the
cooling system to dissipate the heat. This in turn, depends on the quality
of the radiator and the amount of air that flows through it.
The water pump is NEVER* (all rules have exceptions) the problem
in an MGA overheating situation. Cooling can sometimes be effected more
efficiently by adding "water wetter" to the coolant. A re-cored radiator is
a wonderful investment IF it is needed.
As long as the coolant DOES NOT boil out while the car is
running, then the engine is NOT OVERHEATING!! Certainly expect some
expansion (and resulting dripping) when the rad is overfilled and the
underbonnet temp is really high (for the fifteen minutes after shutdown).
If the engine is producing too much heat for the radiator, then
inspect the timing -- it should be 20 BTDC at idle.

Keeping heat from the cockpit is a simple matter. Make your
improvements to the interior in this order: Convection; Conduction;
Radiation. So, plug ALL the holes in the firewall / bulkhead / gearbox
cover. You should not be able to see daylight looking from under the dash
when the bonnet is open! Cover the toeboards and the gearbox tunnel in a
thick rag padding -- some has a reflective covering (for the radiation).
Over that place your carpeting.

MGAs ARE hot cars to drive when the ambient temp is high -- even
worse in the flat counties in Northern Indiana! I've rarely been so hot as
once trying to get from around Crawfordsville up to South Bend following
county roads -- and then, just when Caroline and I though we were going to
die fromt he heat, we encountered a BLACK sky, the temperature plummeted, we
ended up soaked to the bone and horribly chilled. I don't carry
sidecurtains -- but now and then wish I did (or had).

Anyway, except for the problem with the heat in the cockpit, all
sounds about OK. I'd replace that blanking sleeve with a 180 thermostat!
CoolingFan ColorHello again John:
I forgot to add another question to my previous e-mail that I'm sure you
can
answer.
Did MGA 1500 engines have black or yellow fans?
Thanks for your help.
Sincerely,
Brian

We always paint the fans yellow -- I personally like the color
combination -- but for the purists.... red's the color on the 1500.
CoolingFan ColorDear John,
I found the section in Clausager's Book on MGA fan colors, and it
indicates
that 1500 engine fans were black until 1958, then changed to red. See page
64,
Cooling System, in Original MGA.
Sincerely,
Brian Findley

Brian!

Thanks for the note. I'd swear I've never seen a black fan blade!
Anders' books are the "gospel" so I'll believe it.
CoolingMGB/GTDear John;

Could you help me with a small problem? On the way home from the Summer Picnic I lost the second cooling fan motor. You had replaced the first motor a few years back. I disconnected the bad motor and finished the trip home on one fan. I need to get another motor and I remember that you told me that there is a direct replacement that is actually a motor for a US car. What is the model car for this motor?

Thanks for the help. I am looking forward to the next time that we will be together! John

JOHN!

Sorry for this long delay in answering!

For the life of me I cannot remember the type of motor you need! Shop around for those Lucas motors -- they're as expensive as over $100 and as inexpensive as $30 depending on who has them. I believe it's a Toyota motor -- but there's a problem with the shaft diameter, or something. If you've found a US replacement, let me know so I can pass the information on!

All the best. I'm still driving the GT every day!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
CoolingOEM cooling fans 1980 MGB John,
I have recently put my 1980 MGB back in operating condition after a 7 year
rest. Yesterday I noticed that one of the electric cooling fans in front
of
the radiator blows air into the radiator, the other is sucking air out of
the engine compartment in the reverse direction of the air flow when the
car
is moving. Is this right? If not, how do I correct this? Thanks, Glenn.

Glenn!

The fans should blow air INTO the engine bay -- they spin
ANTI-CLOCKWISE (the engine spins clockwise). Because the motors are
permanent magnet motors, the will spin in a reverse direction if they are
connected backwards OR if they've been serviced and the case has been
replaced backwards. So -- you have the info on how to reverse the direction
of the clockwise motor. Either reverse the wiring or
disassemble the motor (slightly) and rotate the case. The heater motor and
the starter motor are both FIELD WOUND motors and always spin the same
direction, no matter the direction of the current.

Hope this helps!

John
CoolingBlanking SleevesHi John,
I have a question about blanking sleeves. I'm taking my sons 77 B to Washington DC this summer. I have had trouble in the past with overheating in traffic. I have installed a lower thermostate(160) and an after market electric fan. What would be the effect of installing a blanking sleeve for the summer, then changing back in the winter?
Thanks, Forrest


Forrest!

How did the blanking sleeve work out for you last summer in DC? I'm going there tomorrow but it's about 30F and I'm in a Toyota Sienna, so overheating shouldn't be a problem!


John
CoolingTemperature Guage Reading John,
I talked to you Friday on the phone about my temperature gauge reading.
I've
changed the thermostat, sending unit, urp switch and changed gauges and
the
gauge still registers on the hot side of the gauge going down the road. I
had
the timing reset a couple of weeks ago when all this seemed to start, and
that is the next thing I'm going to check.
Is there anything else?
Your help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Randy Hull


Randy!

It's been a while since we corresponded about your problem.

Have you changed the voltage stabiliser, located behind the dash,
just above your left knee -- with male and female spades -- GREEN and
GREEN/LIGHT GREEN wires.

Let me know what you did to repair this problem.

John
Cooling64B Block Water Drain

The water drain for the block was completely blocked with sediment. Dug as much out of the hole in the block as possible but.. no water. Used compressed air but nothing dislodged.

Is this a sign of serious blockage? Can I clean out the water passageways by removing the head? Would like to avoid tearing the engine out of the car, if possible. Thanks,

Mike
Mike!

You may be able to clean out that passageway from the outside of the block. Sometimes it's necessary to remove the head (and I wouldn't do that just to clean out the block drain). The block drain is a 1/8" BSP thread (or is it 1/4" -- I think 1/4").
Clean out that hold as well as you can. THEN, use a 90 degree layout scribe and work at the base of the hole at about 10:00 or 11:00 -- that's where the block drains into the hole. Continue cleaning, picking, and blowing with your air gun -- I think you can, with different type of scribes, wire, something, clear that hole.

John

Coolingpull freeze plug? John,

Thank you. One last question...

I was avised to pull the freeze plug just above & to the
right of the drain tap. That way I might get at the
dirt, etc.

Does that make sense?

Mike
No!

The only way to get down into the recess in the block is angled down
from one of the water jacket holes at the rear of the block -- with the head
removed. I'll bet with some patience and some STRONG scribes or dentist
tools that you'll be able to clean the passage.

John
Coolingwhere to fill cooling system?
Hello,
I have a 1978 MGB Roadster. I drained my cooling system, and I need to know where to fill my cooling system up, I have no rad cap, and don't know where to fill up.

Thank you
Fill the cooling system from the top of the thermostat housing, at the top, front of the engine. There should be a black plastic or brass plug there (sometimes replaced with an American square headed pipe plug). Remove this cap, drool the fluid in carefully, squeezing the top rad hose from time to time to get the system FULL.

I'm certain you have a rad cap -- but it's on that overflow tank on the right front fender. Let that remain full, too.

John

p.s please email me ASAP
CoolingMGA Radiator Cap Sir, I have a '62 MGA MkII that I'm returning to the road after nearly 32
years of being my brother's garage decoration. Question: Did the original
radiator cap have a rubber seal ? Mine has a brass outer ring that presses
against the brass flange in the radiator neck (I think it's probably the
original cap). The inner air return disc doesn't look as if there'd be
anything to hold a rubber seal. Should I chuck it?

Jim
Jim!

Remember that the MGA rad cap (along with the TF and the early
Midgets) have a longer cap than all the later cars. Yes, there must be a
rubber seal to hold the pressure in the radiator. A 7# cap is plenty.
Each pound of pressure increases the boiling point by three degrees
Fahrenheit -- so that 7# cap is good to push the boiling point to 232 F.



John
CoolingUnderbonnet TemperatureGood Morning John:

I have a 1958 MGA 1500 that has started to spit and sputter in 2nd and 3rd
gear after being at a long red light. It will smooth out in time but it is
disturbing. The car only does this after it is warm. Any thoughts as to what to look for. Also John I'd like to thank you for attending th 38 GOF in Palm Coast Fl. Everyone I talked to appreciated your help.
Bernie
Bernie!

It certainly seems that the underbonnet temperature is rising so
high that the gasoline is boiling in the float bowls (hence an uneven and
often lean mixture causing the spitting).

You might try a different type of gasoline. You might try to
deflect some of the heat away from the float bowls, or wrap the float bowls
in some insulating material.

Your temperatures are so much greater than ours (especially this
season!) that I do not have much experience with these overheating problems.

Try Mike Ash!

John
CoolingInduction HeaterHI John

I would like to know the purpose of the induction heater in my MGB and if i can take it out.

Thank you very much in advance,

Raymond
Raymond!

I assume you have a 75- MGB. On these models there is an induction heater, switched by a thermostat within the unit. When it's REALLY cold (but since I've never got one of these to work, I don't know how cold....), the switch closes.

The goal of clean running is a reduction in unburned hydrocarbons -- that is, no raw gasoline getting through. So, this heater is designed to vaporize the air/fuel mixture a bit more than the vacuum at the main jet can do when the starting conditions are frigid.

You can remove this, but spacing the carb becomes a problem.

If, on the other hand, you are referring to the "flapper valve" on the air cleaner -- this does the same job as the electric heater, only better! And, yes, you can remove this valve and run the air cleaner with underbonnet air only.

More questions? Give me a call during technical hour!

John

CoolingEngine TemperatureHi John,
You have helped me in the past and I hope you can again. What temp should this engine be running? It presently seems to find it way to 190. Of course if it is hot outside or it is city stop and go it runs warmer. I have removed the thermostat and replaced it with the sleeve and have had the radiator recored all with no effect on the temp. The engine seems to run smoothly so I assume that the timing is ok. I think 190 is a bit warm but that is why I'm asking you. Is it ok or is there anything else I can do to try to lower it aside from fitting it with an ice pack ? 🙂
I enjoyed your article in the MG Driver. Thanks for taking that section over. I can't think of a more worthy author.
Thanks again,
Bob
Bob!

The temperature you are running is excellent. Modern engines need to run warm, they must run warm to vaporize the modern fuels. You do not want to run cold -- say at 165F.

Remember that the thermostat controls the bottom of the temperature range, not the top -- so I would fit a 195F thermostat in place of that blanking sleeve.

The car is running too hot only if it boils over. To prevent this, you have a water/antifreeze solution which raises the boiling point slightly. You also have at least a 7lb cap -- and for each lb of pressure, the boiling point is raise 3F -- so add 21 degrees to 212 and you're not boiling until at least 233 -- and THAT would be pretty hot. My own MGA runs at 230 sometimes -- when its really hot outside, when I'm running on the expressway at 80, but mostly it runs right at the thermostat setting -- about 190.

Hope this helps!

John
CoolingLosing CoolantGood Morning John,

I have a 1979 MGB with an engine that’s been rebuilt 2 years ago. An issue that has come up this year is that I continuously lose coolant. I typically find a small puddle of coolant under the car after most rides which comes from the expansion tank overflow tube. I’m not having any overheating issues and I do not believe I have any leaks in the system. It gets to the point when I need to add a significant amount of coolant every couple of weeks. I do understand that it is challenging to eliminate the air in the system which I believe to be the problem. Any tips or tricks on filling in order to eliminate the air pockets? Also, when I check the expansion tank after it’s cooled, it spews coolant from the cap due to the pressure, even after a week. And I find the expansion tank to be filled to the top. Is this normal?

Also, on another topic, I have quite the delay on my tachometer. When I start it up, the tach will not show anything. It kicks in when I rev up the engine. I’m not sure what this may indicate. I thought you may have some insight on it.

My first two stops for troubleshooting are always your technical manual and your web site. Thanks for all your help!

Jorge




Jorge!
I'll put my money on a leak from the combustion chamber into the cooling cooling jacket -- at the head gasket. Suppose there is a tiny, and I mean tiny, leak between the cooling jacket and one of the combustion chambers. The coolant just cannot get under enough pressure to push into the cylinder. BUT, when the engine runs, the pressure is so high that a tiny amount of that pushes into the cooling system. This pressurizes the cooling system. This pushes coolant into the expansion tank.

Two other telltale signs are white smoke from the tailpipe, and, should you remove the plugs from the engine right after a high speed, hot run, you'll find one of the cylinders slightly steaming.

I should add that a cracked cylinder head can also cause the problem and once, but only once, we had an engine with a vertical crack in one of the cylinders.

Of course, it might be something else....

The tach is just showing its age. Flick the face with your index finger and that needle will pop into position!

Hope this helps!

John



CoolingCoolant OverflowJohn

I have found your website very helpful in what will be
a long slow rolling restoration of my B. I have one
issue that mere web searches cannot seem to answer. I
hope you can help.

I have owned my 1967 MGB for less than a year.

I had noticed over time that after running there was
an overspray of coolant in the engine compartment. I
put a length of tubing with a collection bottle on the
radiator overflow spout as a diagnostic aid. This
resulted in no overspray and some coolant collecting
in the bottle. At most there has been a few ounces of
coolant at each running.

After this test I purchased a new radiator cap (7psi).
There continues to be the same nominal overflow into
the bottle.

Do I have a problem or is some regular coolant
overflow normal for a 67 B?

Thank you for your time.

Regards

-Willie
Willie!

The top of the radiator is the expansion tank. Just after the engine is shut down the latent heat causes the coolant to expand greatly. If the rad is filled to the neck of the expansion tank then some of that coolant will be displaced onto the ground (or into your bottle). However, after a couple of runs the coolant level should stabilise. If you continue to fill the rad it will continue to overflow. If, however, the coolant level continues to decrease -- until you can see the top of the core in the rad (peering through the cap), then there IS a coolant leak.

Common causes of coolant leaks are: water pump -- which sometimes leaks ONLY when running; heater control valve, but that drips directly onto the distributor cap and causes erratic running; hoses, but those usually are quite evident; leaks in the radiator, and those, too, are usually evident; along the RH side of the cylinder head (nearly all MGBs are stained with coolant along the RH side -- the new Payen gaskets have an extra thickness down the RH side to stop this leaking/weeping); and finally, there can be a leak between the cylinder and the cooling jacket, either through a crack or a faulty headgasket. If the coolant leaks into the cylinder then there is a whitish (steam) exhaust at times; if the exhaust gasses escape into the cooling system it will blow coolant out of the rad in short order.

I hope this quick course helps!

John
CoolingHeater for MGTDJohn:
I have a 1953 Mg Td and just got a heater for it,do you have any instructions manuals and parts for one. I need the hose pipes,valve and connectors ,all I got is the heater that goes inside the car.
Wayne
Wayne!

There were two popular heaters for the TD -- the Smith's heater and the Arnolt heater. I am most familiar with the Arnolt and can discuss some of the installation if you'll call during tech hour.

You want hot water, either from a tap installed on the rear plate on the cylinder head (pretty warm) or from the bypass from the thermostat assembly (hottest). You want to plumb the return line into the line coming from the bottom of the rad into the water pump. You can make these lines by adapting the originals, if you're handy; you can make them from copper pipe if you don't mind the conflict of technologies under the bonnet; and, I suppose, you can advertise for original pieces. The hot and return lines were originally plumbed through the firewall, just to the right of the back of the engine.

Someone out there probably has the original installation instructions -- perhaps you could advertise for them through TSO or one of the MG boards.

I hope this little bit has helped!

John
CoolingMGB Engine Running HotGood day, John:

I have a 72 MGB with a rebuilt engine with an alloy standard head (Pierce), 9.0 compression 0.020 oversize pistons and a slightly hotter cam. The distributor has been rebuilt. The engine has about 3000 miles on it since the rebuild. The rebuild went just fine, but I had to rotate the distributor clockwise one tooth in order to have enough advance adjustment on the timing to set it to 16 BTDC at 1600 RPM using a timing light. The engine runs hotter on the gauge than it did before the rebuild especially if the temperature is over 85 degrees, and it has a tendency to run on a bit when I turn off the
engine since the rebuild. It has never quite gotten to HOT, but it now gets very close. Before the rebuild it barely got above the N even on very hot days. I did replace the water pump and the hot water pickup on the head, but nothing else electrical. The radiator has
been recored. The new thermostat is a 185F, plugs are NGK BP6ES and the HIF carbs have free flow air filters with ABD needles. These needles feel a bit lean under hard acceleration (the slight headwind effect). The AAA needles felt a little better, but I was concerned
that they might be too rich. Everything appears to be properly adjusted and timed. The exhaust is a Monza.

Do you have any ideas on why she seems to run hot now? I wonder if the cam is not calibrated properly with the crankshaft and distributor, but I don't know whether this is the cause. I was surprised when I had to rotate the distributor to give it enough advance adjustment to set the timing. I am seeking your advice before I tear into front engine cover to expose the timing chain and
sprockets. I bought a replacement water pump with the cast iron impeller like the car originally came with to see if that would make any difference. The current water pump has the stamped metal impeller. It has not been put on yet, because I want to take care of all the work at one time. I rebuilt the engine and have done it before so I have some experience with engine mechanics. Your advice would be appreciated.
Regards,
Konrad
Konrad!

First of all, I wonder if your engine is truly getting hot. Use an infrared thermometer, pointed at the cylinder head, just below the thermostat. If the gauge is reading "N" the thermometer should be about 185-190. It is not uncommon to have an incorrect sending unit. The two units, the GTR 104 and GTR 101 look exactly the same.

If it IS getting hot, I'd check the timing. Run the engine up to a 4500 idle and set the timing at 32 BTDC, vacuum disconnected. That's maximum advance.

Hope this little bit helps.

John
CoolingPoor Heater PerformanceJohn,

I have a 1967 MGB roadster that has been "restored" (not by me). When the heat is on - It doesnt seem to be putting out hot air, just barely warm, but not as
hot as it was 2 years ago - the air comming from the heater is barely warm. The heater valve cable opens and closes - as far I I can see. Do you think the heater coil needs to be replaced? The engine temp is 180 - mater of fact last year I put the heater on to help keep the car from getting too hot. It was near 200.

I read your tech talk in the MGB driver, what a good series.

Thanks

Tom
Tom!

The heater matrix is mostly likely OK. It's probably the flow of hot water that is impeded. Remove the heater control valve from the head and the heater control valve hose from the bottom of the heater matrix. Use your garden hose and FLUSH the heater matrix by blowing the water into the head, and later, into the heater. Clear out or replace the heater control valve. That should do it!

John
CoolingWater LeakHi John
I hope that you can help me with my water leak. I am a relatively new member (joined at MG 2006 in Gatlinburg) so I don't know if you have answered this before in MG Driver, but here it is.
I drive a 1971 MGB-GT and every time it rains my passenger and I get wet legs and feet. I know the water comes in through the air intake and I have cleaned out the drain pipe but the problem always comes back. I have a magnetic cover that I use regularly so I don't believe there is a lot of debris collecting in the drain pipe either.
Can I remove the plug at the bottom of the drain pipe, and leave it off? Alternatively, what about fixing an extension to the pipe, with the plug removed, to drop down even with the undercarriage so it is not visible below the body.
Or better yet, do you have a solution?
Many thanks for your assistance.

Bob
Bob,

The drain for the fresh air vent can easily become packed with dirt and debris. The best way to clean it is to access the tube and bulb from underneath and use air to blow the stuff up and out -- continue to use the compressed air to clean out the remainder of the fresh air vent.

Then, sit inside the car with a flashlight and have your associate spray down the car. Look for leaks.

Hope this helps!

John
CoolingMGA Water PumpJohn:

I have a rebuilt 1622 MGA engine I am going to put in my 1958 MGA.

I have one of the old MGA water pumps. Do you rebuild these pumps? If yes, how much do you charge to do it?

If you do not provide this service can you tell me who does?

Thanks for your help.

Sincerely,

Reed
Reed,

We used to use Terry's Jag in Benton, Illinois, but they stopped repairing them. I know that someone must rebuild them. Our local shop here in Grand Rapids, Northwestern Auto, won't do them either. I cannot believe they're that difficult! Perhaps someone else knows. What about those twenty pages of services offered at the front of each month's Hemmings Motor News?

John
CoolingMGB OverheatingMy 66 MGB is overheating only when the engine goes above 50mph, it begins
to
cool down as soon as I slow down.

I may have written to you before about this problem, but did not get a
response. You seem to be the man who will know, so here we go, fingers
crossed.

I have flushed the radiator both ways and it appears to be equally heated
when I run my hand over it when warm.

I have replaced the thermostat, there is plenty of water in the system
with
the correct amount of coolant.

I have replaced the heater control valve, which was sludged up solid.

The water pump appears to be fine.

I have added a 123-ignition and set the timing with a strobascope.

The plugs are all new and set to the correct gap.

The only part that does not seem to be as it should is the rear drainage
tap. This is also sludged up. If I open it, nothing comes out. When I take
it off completely, nothing comes out.

Have you come across this before, with these symptoms?

I have bought a replacement head gasket set and was considering removing
the
head to see if I could scoop out any of the sludge which is blocking the
waterways from above.

When I take the head off, could you point out to me on a picture which
holes
in the block are going to be the offending ones. I assume that they are at
the back left above the drainage tap, but then again, this would be a
guess.
I do not want to start removing the head before I have this information as
I
will need to complete the job in one day. The car is my everyday driver
and
I can not afford to have it off the road any longer than needs be.

There is always a chance that the head gasket might be leaking I suppose.
Although, the car is not blowing out smoke. I did a vacuum pressure test
which did not show anything untoward.
You know, for every gallon of gasoline you use, 1/3 is spit out as
heat from the tailpipe, 1/3 is carried out as heat in the radiator, and 1/3
goes for power -- IF the engine is tuned correctly. If there is a problem
with the tune, then the power drops and the heat increases. I do believe
this is your problem.

Overheating at higher rpm usually indicates a problem with timing.
I would time the engine with what we call a "dial-back" light -- and time it
at 32 BTDC at about 4500 rpm, vacuum disconnected. That 32 degrees is
critical -- above or below that number will give less power and more heat.

If that does not solve the problem, then I would put my money on a
mismatch between the compression ratio and the octane of the gasoline you're
using. I am unfamiliar with UK octane ratings -- ours are either nominally
higher or lower than yours. Right now, the highest we can purchase at the
pump is 93.

The bottom line here is that I do not believe it's your water pump,
radiator, or cooling jacket. I think your engine is simply making more heat
than it should.

BTW, you can clean out that rear drain hole with some difficulty if
you're patient. The hole from the drain cock runs about one inch into the
block. At the top left -- about 10:00 or 11:00 there is a passage to the
cooling system. You'll need a layout scribe with a 90 bend to poke and prod
up into that area. Just a piece of wire is too soft for clearing out the
hardened rust and corrosion.
CoolingCooling System Flushing Any sage advice on the best way to drain, and subsequently refill, the
1979 MGB cooling system? How about flushing/backflushing?
About the only way to drain the system easily is to remove the inlet
hose from the water pump. By removing the top hose, you can use your garden
hose to flush out the radiator. By removing the heater hose from the heater
control valve, you can place your garden hose against that heater hose and
flush out the heater matrix. If the other hoses are still connected to the
radiator, thermo housing, and water pump, then the water pressure will clear
out the heater control valve.

This is the method we use in the shop.
CoolingMG TD Oil in Coolant Hope you can help me .Just founnd oil in my 52 MG TD coolant . Engine rebuilt two years ago. 2500 miles on it head and block smoothed by reputable machine shop. compression at 165 psi.
No coolant in oil. I am assuming head gasket , hoping it is not a crack some where. How can I avoid having to do this again when I install a new head gasket? Copper gasket spray ? Higher torque settings? ( at 50 ft / lbs now ) different gasket?
Wish I lived closer to you .I would have you do this one. After pulling the engine to replace faulty sealnt at the cam plug one year after a rebuild I am becoming .discouraged.
There is an oil plug in your head behind the plate. It is probably either unscrewed or dislodged.
CoolingMGB Heater BlowerMy 1980 MGBLE doesn't blow much on either speed. I can feel air movement on both speeds and low is definately less than high speed. Any ideas how I can get more rpm out of the blower?

I don't have a number or a test for you to find out if the heater blower is acting properly. I can tell you that the heater receives fresh air from the grille in front of the windscreen which MUST be uncovered (some owners cover them up!). Then, it travels through the heater matrix and is send down to a flapper valve which directs it to the screen or the floor. Quite frankly, there isn't a lot of air moving here. You can increase the comfort by increasing the temperature of the thermostat (which will raise the temp of the hot air coming from the heater). You can blow out the heater matrix by removing the hose from the heater valve and shooting water from your garden hose through the matrix (and then out of the heater valve -- both of which are known to plug up after years of disuse or from incompatible antifreeze solutions).

At one time, Costello, inventor of the MGB V8, had an improved fan on the market, but that was years ago. I do believe that Rob Clark, of Clark and Clark Spares in Holland, Michigan, a supplier to the MG vendors, was trying to copy that fan, but I do not think it came to fruition.
CoolingMGB Heater Regarding my 1969 MGB and lack of heat. We have a new heating core,
fan/blower switch,and a winter thermostat. These items were installed
last winter and the heat was almost too much...Currently, we are blowing
cold air. The hoses in and out of the core are hot...The dashboard dial
controlling temp appears to be operating the valve properly...We are
stumped...Any thoughts ?
Either hot water is not making it through the heater matrix (which
seems impossible since the hoses won't get hot unless water is passing
through them); or the heater flap is closed and while the motor runs, no air
is allowed out of the heater. It has to be one of those two items. Let me
know what you found.
CoolingMGB HeaterRegarding my 1969 MGB and lack of heat. We have a new heating core,
fan/blower switch,and a winter thermostat. These items were installed
last winter and the heat was almost too much...Currently, we are
blowing cold air. The hoses in and out of the core are hot...The
dashboard dial controlling temp appears to be operating the valve properly...We are stumped...Any thoughts ?
Either hot water is not making it through the heater matrix
(which seems impossible since the hoses won't get hot unless water is
passing through them); or the heater flap is closed and while the motor
runs, no air is allowed out of the heater. It has to be one of those
two items. Let me know what you found.
CoolingLeaking Thermostat The first time, I installed the Moss gasket (PN 296-380) without any RTV or sealant. After a year, it leaked (upon removal, it seemed the gasket had disintegrated!).

I saw your video on making gaskets, so I made my own gasket using a high temperature gasket material (for carburetors and water pumps). For added insurance, I used high temperature RTV to seal the gaskets (both top and bottom sides) and the base of the three threaded posts. After a week of curing the RTV, I added coolant. Bottom line - I noticed another small leak at the gasket between the head and thermostat elbow after one drive. I tried tightening the three nyloc-nuts while the engine was hot. My plan is to see if this fixes the leak (however, I'm not too confident!).

My question is, what is your tried and true method for leak free thermostat gasket installations?
When I install a thermostat gasket there are several things I do to prep the parts. Remove the studs, if you can, and scrape and/or sand the contact surface CLEAN on the head. Then, reinstall the studs with grease so they'll come out again. Surface the bottom of the thermostat housing with 100 grit paper. Use the cork gasket, as original, and coat EVERYTHING with grease. Use only flat washers and nuts on the studs -- don't use lockwashers or you'll end up pulling the nuts too tight to collapse the lockwashers and destroy the gasket in the process. Simply tighten the nuts until the cork gasket "just" begins to squeeze out.
CoolingOverheating I've been planning to run our Midget over to you for lubrication service from Saugatuck (likely on a Saturday morning), but it has been increasingly tending to run hot and I'm concerned about the heat build-up from the highway speeds on the trip over. I suspect that the thermostat may not be fully opening. Nancy and I took a drive to the beach and along Lakeshore Drive, nothing faster than 40-45 mph mind you, and through town last weekend and by the time we got back to the garage the temperature gauge was nearly pegged on the hot side. At speed the temperature drops, it is just when you slow down or idle in traffic that the temperature runs up high quickly.

Up until last year sometime in the summer months, she ran mostly cool, hardly moving the needle beyond the normal range even with a longer drive at higher speeds. No unusual noises, water pump vibrations or anything thing else obvious with the cooling system. Heater seemed to work fine in the fall, too, so I think the water is circulating okay. Fluid level looks okay to me, too. I was going to order a new thermostat and swap out the one in place along with the gasket, but before I create a bigger problem for myself with too little time to work on it, I thought I'd write.
Changing the thermostat may be a solution. Make sure that the cooling system is full by checking the filler plug on the radiator itself, not just the expansion tank. Or, it may be that the engine is producing more heat than the radiator can dissipate because the timing is too far off. It may be that the radiator is not clean, although that should evidence itself at higher speeds (and the higher amount of heat produced by the engine).

The components in the cooling system are: the engine, the water pump; the thermostat; and the radiator. The engine is producing the heat, the thermostat controls only the bottom range of the temperature (unless he thermostat is faulty); the water pumps leak and they wobble, but they rarely, very rarely, fail to pump; and the radiator can become plugged.

It is wise not to drive the car too much before you get the cooling under control. My guess is that the system is not filled with coolant or the radiator is partially plugged up. Please let me know your success with the thermostat.
DrivetrainPinion PinJohn,

1980 MGB roadster - 135,0000 miles

While replacing the thrust washers in the differential (rear-end "klonk") I found that the pinion pin roll pin had sheared and that there is evidence of galling between the two pinion gears and the pinion pin.

Obviously the pinion pin and gears need to be replaced, my question is - do I have to replace the other two gears? (the ones that go on the ends of the half-shafts). The pinion gears are pretty cheap, the other ones are expensive. Do the 4 gears need to wear in as a set?

Two comments on your web page on the rear-end "klonk".

1) My 1980 MGB does have an oil drain plug on the diff. (your page says it does not).

2) The wrench size for my oil fill plug is 3/8" hex, not 1/2" hex as stated on your page.

Anyway, thanks very much for your advice.

Steve Phillips

STEVE!

Thanks for your note -- my apologies for such a tardy reply. Your differential wheels will be just fine! Simply purchase a new shaft (that's not inexpensive!) and the pinion wheels, and be certain to use a split pin through the tension pin to increase the shear strength. You've found your faulty diff "just in time!"

Thanks for the note about the size of the hex. Most of the 1980 MGBs did not have drain plugs. Maybe yours is an earlier one.
DrivetrainDriveshaft VibrationHi John and Happy New Year!

Over the holidays I installed an OD tranny in my 77B, everything is working ok but I have a vibration in the drive shaft at certain rpm's. The manuals say to replace the drive shaft exactly the same way it came out but when the tranny is changed this is hard to do. My question is this, is there a way to know how to put the driveshaft on so that it is balanced or do you have to keep changing the mounting position untill you get it right? Also is this vibration doing any damage? As I said It only happens at lower rpm. Thanks, Don Walton in NC

DON!

You can always get your driveshaft balanced at a truck parts supply -- they seem to be the center for drive shaft construction around here!

BUT, you may be following the wrong path... Does this vibration occur ONLY when driving down the road -- or can you get it going by sitting still and bringing the rpm up to the same number (as if you were on the road)? If so, then the problem is probably the exhaust.

I have removed and refitted driveshafts for three decades and have never been concerned with the alignment of the flanges. Certainly the fixed axis MUST be parallel (and THIS could be your problem), but the flange to flange rotational alignment seems to make no difference.
DrivetrainProblems with Running Gear on MGB 1973John,

First, let me apologize up front for bothering you - I am at a loss as
to where else to turn at present.

I have recently purchased a 1973 MGB in excellent physical condition
however I have several problems with the running gear.

As near as I can tell, the person who was doing the restoration replaced
the SU carbs with carbs from an earlier model - it has twin HS-4 carbs
not the expected HIF-4 carbs.

The fuel pump never stops - I thought that it was supposed to stop when
pressure built up. My mechanic seems to think that they never stop
pumping.

The emissions gear has been all removed prior to my getting the car.

I have 3 main problems with the car:

1. The car has a tendency to fall on its face at around 3000 rpm (this
is when under load - with no load it seems to run fine).
This actually varies depending on the gear - 1st will rev to about 3700
- 4000 with no problem then it breaks down. 2nd gets to about 3300, 3rd
and 4th to about 3000. Backing down on the throttle eliminates the miss
but power is gone.

2. The car runs hot (depending on the ambient tempreture) above about 80
degrees it gets to just below the "H" on the gauge. An infrared
thermometer shows about 185 degrees at the thermostat.

3. The overdrive works some times - usually when the car is cool - I
drive 40 miles each way to work daily and after about 30 miles, the
overdrive will not engage if I have to stop in traffic. Sometime it acts
like it is trying to engage - throttle on is direct drive, backing off
the throttle drops rpm's to where they should be if the overdrive is
engaged. I don't think it is a clutch problem as it is solid when
working. The 3-4 switch does not work ad I have a hunch the vacuum swith
is not working as well.

We replaced the distributor with one from my parts car - a 1979 MGB. It
is the electronic with the separate amplifier(?). there was no
difference in the rpm problem.

Main question - could the rpm problem be related to the fuel pump? I am
getting to the point of considering a Weber downdraft carb kit to try to
get this resolved.

Glenn Vaughn


Glenn!

I apologise or taking so long to reach you and help you with your MGB problems.

The car should run just fine with those HS carburetters, as long as the timing is correct AND the needles are correct for your altitude. The dwell should be 60 degrees, the point setting is 0.015", and the timing should be 15 degrees before top dead centre AT 1500 rpm, vacuum disconnected. When you connect the vacuum, the timing should jump to nearly 30 BTDC.

Remember that 1/3 of the gasoline produces power and 2/3 produces heat (in the best of circumstances). Poor tuning changes that ratio so more heat is produced -- but an engine temperature of 195 is just fine for good running -- and that will give you a reading on your temp gauge on the right side of the letter N (not beyond it, just on the right side of the letter itself).

I wonder if your overdrive switch -- lockout switch -- is faulty. If the 3/4 lockout switch is going bad, then the O/D works ONLY consistently when you hold the gear lever to the RIGHT as you're driving. Try that, and if you're still having this problem, get back in touch and I'll give you the information about how to change the switch (no small task).

I invite you to call me during my technical time or in the evening, at home, so we can discuss your running and OD problems. Don't buy that Weber!

John
DrivetrainFront Universal Joint of '55 MGTF

John -
I spoke with you a few weeks ago to ask for your advice. The front
universal joint on my '55 MGTF suddenly took it upon itself to begin to
thump against the transmission hump. It didn't happen regularly, sometimes
it did it when in neutral between shifts, sometimes when accelerating, and
it generally did it all the time when my wife was in the car. At the same
time, the transmission began a nasty habit of slipping out of 3rd gear
whenever I let up on the throttle. I had visions of everything from the
drive shaft coming up through the floorboards to the transmission
disintegrating into pieces.
You suggested that I tighten the output flange nut and gave me good
instructions on how to go about accessing the nut, and tightening the
bolt.
The whole operation took just a few hours (including fashioning a bar to
bolt across the flange for torque). As soon as I dropped the drive shaft
and pulled the cotter pin, I found the nut would spin freely. A quick
torque with a wrench, refastened the drive shaft, and it was done. Since
the nut was a castle nut with a good pin still in place, I never would
have
imagined that it would loosen up and it would have been the last place I
would have looked to fix something.

Last night, I took my wife for a test drive. You're a genius! It
worked!
The noise is gone!

Thanks very much for your help - Now, I still need to figure out the
problem with 3rd gear.....

Ernie Crabtree

Ernie! I thought that the loose nut might improve the "falling out of gear"
problem. Good luck!

John
DrivetrainDisconnect driveshaft when towing?
Hello John,
I purchased a 1978 MGB from a lady in Baltimore Md and will be
towing it home to Jackson, Michigan. I could only get a two wheel tow
dolly to bring it home on. Could you tell me what I need to to to tow
it home- One guy said to disconnect the driveshaft, another said it's
not necessary- so I am asking you, the expert- what is the proper way
to do this? Do I need to disconnect the drive shaft?, If so how the
heck do you do that? Thanks so much John, I appreciate it.
Jason
Jason!

The gearbox is oiled when the laygear turns. The laygear turns only
when the engine is running. Therefore, towing the car turns the gears but
doesn't oil the gearbox. It's best to disconnect the driveshaft. You'll
need two 1/2" open end or box end wrenches to disconnect the bolts which
hold the rear flange of the gearbox / the front flange of the differential
to the driveshaft flanges.

John


DrivetrainVibrationHello John!


I have read your questions and answers about vibrations, and I'm pretty sure the vibration I am experiencing in my A comes from a need to buy new wheels, since I spun the wheels and they appear slightly out of round.

The thing that makes me wonder, however, is that I get
vibration at about 35 mph, but the vibration disappears
when I back off the accelerator. Does that mean the most
likely culprit is the driveshaft, or could it still be the
wheels?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Lee

Lee!

There are only five things that can cause a
vibration: four wheels and the driveshaft. The wheels
probably don't know if you're accelerating or decelerating -- the driveshaft does. I guess if I were going to check something out first it would be the driveshaft. Are the fixed axis aligned? Does the shaft have even a hint of a dimple? You can have a driveshaft rebuilt and balanced with new U Joins for about $150.

Hope this helps!

John
DrivetrainU-jointsHello John, this is kind of a stupid question but Dad says you have to drop the rear-end to change the u-joints on his 74 midget, but the engine is getting pulled to replace the clutch so seems like this would be a good time to pull the drive shaft and have them done. Who wins the bet?



Thanks

Leon

Leon!

It is NOT necessary to remove the diff. All you have to do is disconnect the four 5/16-24 x 1 1/4" bolts from the drive shaft flange, and then, jiggle the drive shaft out of the tunnel -- I believe I usually move it out on the LH side. Reinstallation is a much more difficult matter, unless your Midget is late enough to have the little access panel at the rear of the gearbox.

Hope this helps!

John
ElectricsElectricsDear Mr. Twist: I have a 1950 MG TD. You worked on it several years ago. My question: what fuses do you recommend? Note: I replaced the generator with an alternator and replaced the points and condensor with an electronic ignition. Other than these changes the car is stock. Thank you! Larry CarlsonLarry, I remember you and your TD -- that was in November 2008. The original running fuse was a 17 amp fuse which would withstand a short 35 amp burst. I would use a 15 amp fuse -- or 20 amp if you cannot find a 15. The fuse for the horn circuit was much larger -- something like 35 amps continuous withstanding a 50 amp surge. So, a 35 amp fuse would be good here. Stay in touch!
ElectricsWiringI have a 1958 mga roadster 1500. passenger side turn signals do not work, driver side works fine. How do I trace the fault? The 1500 MGAs use that relay box on the firewall to separate the brake lights from the turn signal circuit. The problem often lies there. Here are some things you can do: Feel the relay box when your associate rotates the turn signal switch. You should feel the relay click as the switch is operated left or right. If you do feel the click, then the switch and wiring are OK. If not, there's a problem with the switch in the dash or the wiring to the turn signal box. Use a test light on the bottommost connecters on the relay box -- when the switch is operated one or the other will illuminate your test light. The top right connector on the relay box comes from the turn signal flasher unit. It should illuminate your test light. When you operate the switch on the dash for the right side, the right hand relay should operate. When it does, it disconnects the rear lamp from the brake light circuit and then connects the front bulb and the rear bulb (brake light) to the turn signal flasher. Sometimes the points corrode on the relay. Remove the cover and operate the relays by hand (push on them) and see if you can get both sides to work correctly. You can always drag a piece of fine sandpaper between the points. The turn signal flasher unit will not flash just one bulb -- so if one filament is burned out or if one bulb holder does not have a good ground, then the bulb won't illuminate -- and not enough current will pass through the flasher unit to cause it to wink on and off. If you cannot get this sorted out, give me a call. Hope this helps.
ElectricsConverting to Negative Earth John i printed your article on converting to neg earth from the net . I would like to ask a question if possible. I am assuming that my fuel pump, which looks to be orginal, would be unaffected. I also believe my tach is mechanical. (My car is a 1959 MGA). Do my assumptions sound correct?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Best Regards,
Mike Cundiff

MIKE!

The MGA fuel pump was originally bi-polar (?) -- it was unaffected by the chassis earth. Newer MGA fuel pumps are polarized! Negative earth ones have BLACK tape on their solenoids; positive earth ones have RED tape on their solenoids. These new pumps, when connected backwards, begin to burn (isn't that some safety feature in this modern age -- a burning fuel pump!!).

You are correct -- the original MGA has a mechanical rev counter. A tachometer is technically an electronic unit while the earlier chronometric or magnetic rev counter indicates engine rpm.

Hope this helps!
ElectricsBatteries: Dual-6V vs 12VJohn,

I just got a 1971 MGB that my brother has had in his garage for the last 13 years. Right now the engine won't run. To make a long story short. I have ascertained that the celunoid engages, but I don't have enough juice to do much more than that. My questions are:

1. Should I replace the two 6 volt batteries or change over to a single 12 volt battery?

2. How difficult is it to change?

3. Does this mean that I would go from negative earth to positive earth? and How does that impact the electrical system?

I would appreciate your insights as I am a novice mechanic and haven't work on an MG for over 20 years. That was a midget and another story.

Thanks again for you help.

Andy Phipps

ANDY!

A modern, single twelve volt battery will probably be more powerful than twin sixes! It will also be about half the price of twin sixes. Only the most "original" of us retain the two six volt batteries.

So, remove yours, then fit a single Group 26 into the passenger battery box. Connect the main power cable to the POSITIVE post. MOVE the EARTH CABLE from the left hand box to the passenger box and connect it to the NEGATIVE post. This MGB, as it has an alternator, MUST be wired NEGATIVE EARTH!!

I've found that it is far easier to work on the batteries by loosening the top and then folding it forwards, rather than trying to work on bended knee, sandwiched between the seat and the back shelf, while leaning through the door.

Good luck!
ElectricsRadio John - The original AM radio in my 1959 MGA is shot. What do you have -- or can recommend -- for a modern radio, at least AM-FM, that will fit in the same dashboard slot without modification. My car is still positive ground.

Gary

GARY!

There is simply no hope of finding a "modern" radio that works with a positive earth. You have three options: Get the present radio fixed -- find some ads in Hemmings Motor News; Switch the car to negative earth allowing you to fit ANY modern AM/FM/Tape/CD machine you want; or lastly, fitting a "voltage inverter."

The voltage inverter has a 24 volt + output lead. You connect this to your modern, negative earth, power lead, and allow the radio to find it's natural earth on the frame of the car (12 volts +). The difference between the 24+ and the 12+ is 12+ -- so, effectively, the 24+ lead becomes 12+ and the 12+ earth becomes neutral. Neat! They are hard to find now -- I mean, who has a positive earth car any more? Maybe you can make one from radio shack parts?

Absolutely the easiest way to take care of this is to switch the battery connexions, polarize the dynamo, and change the coil leads (but this last step really isn't necessary). Everything will work just fine! AND, you can fit that modern radio.

The last option, not listed above, is to fit the radio blanking plate -- that's only about $25 new (although I believe I've got a used one), as the sound of the engine should be music enough for your ears!
ElectricsAlternator Bolt ThreadDear Mr. Twist:

Would you be able to tell me what the bolt size is, that screws into the bottom hole of alternator. This bolt also connects to the link that lets you adjust the tension on the belt? I am having trouble sizing up this hole.

I have a 1973 MGB with a 1967 engine in it. I am now replacing this alternator since when I bought the car it had a Cadillac alternator in it.

Thanks Dave Matos

DAVE!

That bottom bolt is either 5/16-18 BSW (British Standard Whitworth) or 5/16-18 USS (American Coarse). Fortunately, these threads are nearly perfectly matched, so the American 5/16 coarse bolt will work just fine. It should be fitted with a lock washer and flat washer. It should be 3/4" long!
ElectricsBrake LightsHi John,

I have a question in regards to brake lights for my 79 MGB. My brake lights currently do not work. The switch located in the servo unit was getting extremely hot to the touch it was also not functioning properly when I would brake. I had a spare used switch, so I replaced it. That used switch would also get hot to where it doesn't want to function anymore.

Why was the switch getting hot?

Is the problem just in the switch? If I purchase a new switch will this cure the problem?

Any type of testing that I can do?

Thank you,

Tom Swerc

TOM!

If I had to guess, I'd say your car had been in a body shop recently! My best answer here is that there is a BLACK wire (earth) mixed with one of the GREEN/PURPLES which is the brake light circuit, at one of the rear corners. This would explain why the lights don't work (the current takes the path of least resistance, which is straight to ground), and why the switch is getting hot.

Let me know what you found!
ElectricsBatteries Do you supply or can you help me in sourcing suitable batteries for a 74 MGB GT? I am in your area often and would like to stop by and see your operation if possible

GEOFF!

While your car was fitted with twin six volts, only the "most original" of us would refit two expensive batteries. It is easily converted to a single 12 volt -- group 26, available here and almost everywhere. Fit the 12 volt to the passenger compartment, connect the main cable to the positive terminal; move (or add) an earth cable to that right hand box and connect it to the negative terminal. Ensure the battery is tied down and the clamps are fresh and clean! That group 26 battery is about $70, I think. Each 6volt is about that same price!
ElectricsDim Lights, Converting to Alternatorjohn,

I have a 1967 gt that is really nice, has 65000 miles and very poor headlights. I have converted the car to negative ground and one 12v battery.

Can you advise p/n and instructions for wiring an alternator? If you can, please know I am a neophyte and really thrive on simple english instruction.

If there is a conversion kit, I'll buy it. Need bracket info,too. Wish I could just drop in, but living in plano, texas it is not an easy commute. I should have come by while at MSU back in the 60s.

Thanks in advance

jack hutson

JACK!

The generator that is in your MGB is capable of providing 30 amps which is MORE than enough to run your headlights. I wonder if there is something wrong with the generator, control box, battery, or associated wiring?

If you MUST fit an alternator, I can easily provide a "kit" but it will be about $200. It will include specific instructions. If you want to go this route, just let me know! The instructions will be in plain English!!
ElectricsStarterHi,

I have a Toyota hilux which I have had refitted with an 3.5l v8 from a Rover SD1. The problem I have with this vehicle is that don't have much clearance between the front axle and the starter motor, and recently whilst 4x4ing, the two colided and smashed the face of the solenoid. I came across your articles on the net whilst looking for information on my starter motor. From your information it seems I have one of the pre-engaged lucas startmotors, with the solenoid on the bottom. My question is: Is it possible to fit another type of starter motor here which does not have the solenoid on the bottom thus giving me a couple more inches of clearance?

Many thanks for any help.

Graham Sims
Analyst/Software Developer
Computer Systems Engineering (CSE) NZ Ltd.

Graham!

There is a "high torque" starter offered by T&S Imports in Pandora, Ohio, which may solve your problem. Ask Ted Schumaker about the particulars, his Email address is in the cc line.

While serving in the army in Viet Nam in 1969, I applied to go to school in NZ, but just never got there. I later met two fellows from NZ while living in London in 1973 -- Stuart Dryburgh, whose father worked for the brewry in Auckland, and Erin Moore, a carpenter, whose mother lived in Pikakariki.

Hope this helps.
ElectricsFlasher Relay Hi there. I recently bought back my 1959 MGA that Ihad sold 16 years ago. Somewere along the way someone removed the flasher relay that mounts on the firewall. Would you by any chance have a new or used one I could purchase?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.

Tim

TIM!

I do not have this expensive device, used. I know they are available new. You can, of course, build one from two inexpensive double pole, double throw relays available from Radio Shack.

You could go to www.mgcars.org.uk and place an advert.

Hope this helps.
ElectricsStarter RelayJohn

I have a 65B and a 71 BGT. My question concerns the 71 GT. The starter relay next to the fuse box is junk. I ordered a replacement but the original style has been replaced by a round cylinder-type relay. MY problem is thatI don't know what wires from the harness go where on the replacement relay. The new unit is marked 30, 85, 86, 87. Can yu tell me
what color wire matches each number?

Thanks
Bill Snyder


BILL!
I do not have one of the "newer" relays with me, but remember that the WHITE/RED and the BLACK wires each attached to the "W" (windings)terminals of the old relay. The BROWN and the WHITE/BROWN wires each attached to the "C" (Contact) terminals of the old relay. Now, please
connect the BROWN wire to the copper colored spade terminal, the one offset in direction from the other -- the spade opposite to this receives the WHITE/BROWN. The WHITE/RED and the BLACK wires are attached to the other
two terminals in no particular order. I hope this helps! Safety Fast!
ElectricsLow Beams Also have a tech question for you. My low beams are out. High beams are ok and go on. All other lights work. Put in new headlight switch but didn't help. Before lights went out replaced the wiper switch and was trying to
get the trunk light to work. Could not fix the trunk light. Any
suggestions?
Taxiguy

About those low beams: You MUST have a test light.
Check the BLUE/RED wires at the right front of the MGB to see if they are HOT when the headlight switch is on and the dipper switch is in its "natural" position. If so, the problem lies with the wiring or the bulbs in front. If not, then remove those column covers and test the switch
right there -- again, the BLUE wire goes hot when the headlight switch is turned all the way on -- this BLUE wire is then directed into the low beams (BLUE/RED) or into the high beams (BLUE/WHITE ). Remember that "Blue with
White is Bright." If you write back for further hints, be certain to include the year and model! Hope this little bit helps:
ElectricsStarter Rubber BootHello John,
I am restoring a '67 MGB GT, and am having trouble locating the rubber boot which covers the starter solenoid & engagement lever inside the drive housing. (I need almost everything else too, but right now I'm into the starter!)
I used to live in Kalamazoo, and you did some work on my 68 Midget then (mid 70's).
Jack McInnis, Port Huron, MI

Jack! Just offhand, a 1967 MGB does not have a pre-engaged starter motor -- so I wonder what type of engine/gearbox, or what the actual year of your car truly is. Further, there are two type of pre-engaged starters. One uses a solenoid fitted with flanges to the starter; the earlier uses long studs. Which type do you have? You know, we do not sell parts by mail -- but I doubt you can find this specific part through any parts supplier.
Why not come over some day and look for that part and the others you probably need?
ElectricsRelays In most modern electrical systems, the switches on the dash that control such items as the headlights, heater blower, horn, and other big current items only switch the control current for relays that actually operate the above items. In the MGB, that is not the case, and the switches carry and switch the entire current, with consequential impact on the longevity of the contacts, wiring harness, etc. It has occurred to me that it might extend the life of my switches and harness if I were to add relays to operate big current items. I can get good individual 12 volt relays and simply stick them in where needed, but I was looking at the arrangement on my '86 300ZX and thought that something like it might be really neat. It has a relay block with plug-in relays and a cover over the whole thing. So, my question is (finally!), is the addition of relays a good idea,
and, if so, do you have any suggestions as to how it should be done.
Thanks,
John Hubbard

John! The most common relay fitted is for the horns -- and this isn't to power the units, it's to ground them! I'm trying to think of which switches we change most frequently in the shop -- and it's not the headlight switch. We do change turn signal switches and wiper switches -- the column mounted units, but more because of the abuse they suffer by careless use, rather than from the current flowing through them. I guess if I were going to place relays in any circuits, it would be just the horns. In this case, no new wires are needed. The coil on this new horn relay receives Purple (from the horn circuit) HOT, FUSED and Purple/Black (to the horn switch). So, when the horn switch is operated, the relay closes. On the relay contacts, fit a BLACK (Earth) and the Purple/Black that goes to the horns (not to the horn switch). Now, when you hit the horn switch, the relay operates, the horns are earthed, and they honk -- LOUDLY!

You'll be pleased to know, though, that I just created the T Series and MGA 1500 turn signal relay unit from two double pole, double throw relays from Radio Shack -- total price with mounting board was about $20. And, it works GREAT! Of course, it's not Lucas.
ElectricsTurn SignalsJohn,
I am considering purchasing my first mga (first mg of any type) and noticed that this car does not have turn signals. My questions is can the car be retrofitted with turn signals?

Thanks for any assistance you can offer. Best Regards,
Jim

JIM!

To my knowledge, ALL MGAs were fitted with turn signals. The 1500's used one bulb in the rear with two filaments -- necessitating the use of an expensive turn signal relay box; the 1600's and MKII's used two bulbs in the rear with three filaments -- brake, tail, turn. Now, it may be that
the former owner wired the car himself and did not provide for turn signals - in that case, fitting all the proper components would be time consuming and expensive (to do "correctly"). These are not good answers to your
question -- provide me some more info and I can advise you more easily!
ElectricsGenerator Charging Circuit Hi John, Wonderfull and immensely helpful page!!! My TD (5 post) charging system is giving me fits...Gen cuts out at around 3800 rpms. Light comes on. Slow down to 2000 rpms and it comes back on line. This is a newer Lucas regulator. Voltage was high...charging at almost 16 volts. I turned it down to 14 volts max, but it still cuts out at the same engine speed, so not voltage related. Any thoughts?? Also, I would like to convert my rearend to 4.3 and have a ring and pinion set from an MGA. Could you estimate cost if I supply the gears?
Many Thanks, Steve Tobias

I know that those charging circuits can sometimes give you fits. There are just a couple of components and a couple of important connexions -- follow me through on this: Ensure that the battery cables are tight, the fan belt is tight, and that the control box has a good earth connection
(add one if you're in doubt). Then, test the generator -- remove the YELLOW/GREEN wire from the F terminal on the control box; remove the heavy gauge YELLOW wire from the D terminal on the control box. At about 2000 rpm, hold these two wires together for several seconds, then separate them
-- you should get a BIG flashy spark. If you do, the generator is OK; if you don't the generator is faulty. Now, of course, there can be certain faults in the generator that are not evidenced in this test -- but this
gets 99% of them. If the generator is working and the control box is earthed -- and the charging is not working correctly, then THROW AWAY the old control box and purchase a new one. All attempts to adjust are just a waste of time. These thoughts are based on our labour rate of $50/hour and the cost of a new control box of about $60. Hope this helps.

The conversion takes 10 hours of labour, or $500. The only parts we'll need will be the pinion seal and the paper gasket. We've converted hundreds of these diffs -- it is really a good move! You will have to recalibrate your speedometer or install an "in-line" induction gearbox to
get the speedo to read correctly. I can advise you more at the time you send the diff. AND, that diff, without backing plates or half shafts, should come UPS -- it's under 150 lbs.
ElectricsReverse LampsJohn,
I am having a problem with my reverse lamps not working on my 1977 MGB. They haven't worked since I purchased the car five years ago. I purchased brand new light units and have checked all connections. It appears the reverse lamp plugs are getting 9.5 v of power when the car is put into reverse.
I don't have a wiring schematic for my 1977 MGB. Could you e-mail me one or suggest what I might do to make my reverse
lamps work correctly.
Thank you. K. Beatty

Mr Beatty!

Remember the first rule of Lucas electrics: approaching an electrical malfunction without a test light and a wiring diagram is a certain route to madness.

The reverse light switch is probably your problem. This switch is located on the RH side of the gearbox, just above the gearbox crossmember. It is easily grasped with pliers and rotated, then unscrewed by hand. The reverse switch receives power through a GREEN wire (ignition hot, fused),
and sends it to the rear of the car in a GREEN/BROWN wire. To ensure that this IS the problem, find the connection of the gearbox loom to the main wiring loom, at the rear of the right front inner fender (the main, rear, and gearbox loom all combine at this spot). Find the GREEN/BROWN entering the rear loom; find the GREEN exiting the main loom to the gearbox loom. Disconnect these wires and attach them with the ignition ON. I'm sure you'll find that the reverse lights illuminate. The new switch is about $30.
The problem using a voltmeter (as you have done) is that while some voltage is passed by the faulty switch, the switch cannot pass any amperage. Always use a test light --either it works, or it doesn't, and it draws current.

Hope this helps
ElectricsAlternatorHi John
I m the proud new owner of a 78 MGB. After working out most of the
minor bugs I have encountered a fault that I have not been able to solve.
I
used your Part Four on alternators as a guide but did not see My specific
problem noted. When I start my car the ignition light comes on brightly
and
remains that way for the duration. Thank you for your support and
actually
have been following your page and advice even before I became an MG
owner.
Sincerely
Rob Stachurski

Rob!

Let me restate your problem: You turn the key from off, through
accessory, to "ON" and the ignition light comes on. Lights on, lights
off, the alternator warning light remains on no matter what the engine rpm.
This indicates a problem with the alternator -- most likely the diode
pack. However, be certain to test the "surge device" which is a diode,
infinite in one direction, about 4K ohms in the other. If this goes
continuous the ignition light will not go out.
You should be having a problem with your battery charge, which you do not
mention.
ElectricsIgnition LightHi John, Jeff Rutt. I have a question I hope you can answer in maybe,
ah...let's say, fifth grade English. My ignition light glows with a real
dim
glow at all times, it will not go out. It does glow bright when started,
as it
should. But, then continues to glow. Any suggestions! Thanks in advance.
Jeff

Jeff!

The alternator is faulty. The rectifier pack has a failed diode. I'll
give you 95% on my answer. 1% chance that it's a wiring problem under the
steering column; 1% chance it's a wiring problem at the starter/battery; 3%
chance it's something else in the alternator. Send me the alternator and
I'll solder in a new diode pack and fit new brushes for 1/2 hour or $25
plus the cost of the parts (about $25) plus shipping.

Jeff, thanks very much for your poster idea. We selected the poster drawn
by Bruce Wyckoff which had a lighthouse and a dolphin (or was that a
porpoise?).

See you this summer.
ElectricsElectrical ProblemI was hoping to speak with you at the Heartland Regional on Saturday,
but you had more cars than time allowed and did not get to me. I have
an electrical problem that I was appreciate your direction on. When I
turn on my left turn signal, the back up lights flash with the turn
signal. When I use the right turn signal, everything works properly.
The back up lights do not illuminate when the car is in reverse, only
when the left turn signal is on. Everything else concerned with
lighting works properly. I have checked the wiring inside the boot
against the diagram, and this all seems to be connected properly; or at
least the colors seem to be in the right places. I would appreciate any
advise that you may be able to offer as I must take the car for a state
safety inspection soon and it will not pass in the condition. Thank you
for your anticipated assistance.


JIM!

I would first tell you to search for a faulty earth (ground)
connection, but it would take several faulty connections to get the reverse
lamps to flash with the left turn (rather than "instead of" the left turn).
The circuits are all quite separate -- and as you've inspected the wiring at
the back of the car (Green/Red is Left)(Green/Brown is Reverse), then I can
only imagine that there is mis-wiring at the rear of the right front inner
fender. There, where the main loom connects to the gearbox loom and to the
rear loom, you will find a Green/Brown entering the rear loom (the gearbox
loom has only three wires, and the main loom runs horizontally and has about
fifty -- the rear loom has about six wires). Look at where that Green/Brown
is connected! I'll bet it is pushed into the Green/Red Lucas four-way
connector. If that is NOT the case, write back and we'll take it further.

It was a real pleasure to look at and work on all those MGs at the
Heartland Regional. The next day we went to the Kansas City Zoo, and, more
impressively, to the display of the wreck of the riverboat "ARABIA." That
is a display that ALL should view!
ElectricsIgnition SwitchJohn: I've recently gotten a 1978 MGB from my Dad. He' up in years, but
still likes to tinker with the old classics. I'm just getting started
with
some of the mechanical problems that need to be addressed. The ignition
switch will not allow me to remove the key and doesn't shut the car off
when
it is turned to the off position until after a delayed period of time. I
have been told a NOS switch is not available for this model. I was
contemplating getting a used one, but thought I might be buying the same
problems. Any suggestions? Chet Edwards

Dear Chet!

You have two problems here: 1) key removal. Ensure that you press
the small oblong button at the base of the key switch while rolling the
switch "off". Only then can you withdraw the key. Sometimes it is
necessary to rotate the steering wheel allowing the pin of the locking
assembly to fall into place. Failing that, remove the key switch (use a
prick punch and a hammer to spin out the shear bolts which hold the key
switch halves together around the steering column).
2) Your vehicle is wired so that the engine will not shut down
until the anti run-on system places a vacuum on top of the gasoline in the
carburetter float bowl. If you have replaced the original carb with a
downdraught Weber this will be impossible. So, fit a diode into the
BROWN/YELLOW wire coming from the back of the alternator, with the arrow of
the diode pointing TOWARDS the alternator. Now the engine will shut down
(perhaps with a hint of dieseling) and the alternator light will work.

Moss Motors DOES have new key switch assemblies for about $200 I
believe.

Hope this helps!
ElectricsElectrical IssueGreets,

Kudos for the best ' Eliminating Rear Axel Clunk ' technical information
that has ever been 🙂 ! The url appears to be an orphan however.
other url on the site that i could find. Someone at the bulletin board

I have a Lucas mystery to solve :-/ ! My switched power lead from my CD
player is connected to the 'FUSE BOX' with a blade connector at the same
location as the 'Brake Lights'. At night, after the car has warmed up,
with the lights on, when the brakes are depressed, occasionally the power
from the switched lead is lost and the CD turns off for an instant.
Sometimes repeatedly putting on the brakes under these conditions will
repeat the CD power off. If the engine is cool at night and i am just
starting out this does not occur. This only occurs with the use of the
brakes at night, and usually just when the engine is mid range temp due to
important activity ... ... like cruising Las Vegas Strip 🙂 ! This is a
long time ongoing problem, like 3 years or so.

Yeppers ... ... I could find another switched lead and this problem would
probably go away. That would be defeating the JOYS OF LUCAS ELECTRICS
though 🙂 !

Thanks for all of your help. Especially the Clunk info. I have had one
car in the last 20 years. A 79 MGB (125k mi). MG's are amazingingly
durable ... ... ... if the owner is not negligent 🙂 .

enjoy your summer

dennis

DENNIS!

First, the basics: Half of all electrical problems in the MG is
caused by loose/corroded/high resistance battery terminal ends. So, Remove
the cable ends, clean them, clean the battery posts, open the clamps, and
resecure them. Half of the rest of the problems is caused by a dirty
fusebox. Remove the fusebox, remove the fuses, clean the fusebox in a
glassbead cabinet, with ammonia (soak it), something! Then crimp all the
female connecters before reattaching them, AND, squeeze the fuse clips to
ensure a good connection.

Please note: the "proper" power lead to your CD player is
WHITE/GREEN and is dangling out of the console loom, just waiting for you to
use it. This is an UNFUSED wire which is "ON" at the first key position
(OFF, FIRST(ACC), ON(IGN), START).

Why at night, why when the engine is warm, why not the rest of the
gauges -- these I cannot imagine without looking at the car. But follow the
rules above and expect success!

SAFETY FAST!
ElectricsBrake LightsI'm having a brake light problem (i.e., they don't work!) on my 74 B. My
voltmeter shows that I've got current in the socket when the brake pedal
is depressed, as I think it should. The light bulbs are double filament,
and the ohmmeter says that both light bulbs circuits are complete. The
tailights work properly, but even when I push in on the light bulb to
ensure proper contact, the brake lights will not light on either side.


Thanks,

Dan Hiltz

DAN!

Throw away that voltmeter! The ONLY test equipment I use for MGs is
a 12v test light and a jumper wire. (Well, almost!). The laws of physics
are this: The brake light switch has extremely high resistance (a new one
does not, but yours does) so when you check the voltage with NO LOAD on the
circuit, you read 13.2, or battery voltage. BUT, when a load is placed on
the circuit (the brake lights), the resistance is too great to allow the
passage of enough current to light the bulbs. I'll bet you that if you
check the voltage at the GREEN/PURPLE wire with both bulbs in place and
switch closed (pedal down), you'll find virtually zero voltage! A test
light draws current and avoids these errors -- the voltmeter draws no
current (well, nearly none).

Test my theory by connecting the GREEN to the GREEN/PURPLE wires at
the brake light switch. This will send uninterrupted current to the back of
the car and the lights will work. The switch you need is not inexpensive
(about $30) but all attempts to open it, rework it, and make it work in the
car will be futile.

SAFETY FAST!
ElectricsReverse LightThank you for your reply. Sure enough, the Green/Brown wire was
connected to the Green/Red wires at the four-way connector. When I
unplugged it the turn signals started working properly. However, I do
not know where the Green/Brown is to be connected, and I noticed that
the reverse lights do not work at all now. I expect that the
Green/Brown is for the reverse lights, but I'm not sure where it is to
be connected. All other systems seem to be working properly. Would you
please direct me through the final step of this process? Thank you in
advance.

Jim!

The GREEN/BROWN wire entering the rear loom should be connected o
the GREEN/BROWN wire exiting the gearbox loom -- it's the reverse light
circuit.
ElectricsLightsI have a 1980 MGB, I am having problems with the lights, the right side
will
work and the left side will not, other times all lights will work, I
replaced
the fuse block and this corrected some of the problems but I still have
problems, do you have any suggestions, When the ignition is turned on the
right side lights stay on all the time but the left side will not burn.
HELP!!! I can wiggle the wires and then the lights will sometimes work.
Thanks Steve T.

STEVE!

Let me suggest that you look carefully at your wiring again. The
new fusebox should have a bridged connection at the top of the forward side,
and to one of the four common spades a RED/GREEN should be connected. The
third fuse, front, takes the WHITE/BROWN; the fourth fuse, front, takes the
BROWN wires.

The first fuse, rear, takes a pair of REDS; the second fuse, rear,
takes a pair of REDS; the third fuse, rear, takes the GREENS; and the fourth
fuse, rear, takes PURPLES.

Remove the fuses and squeeze the little clips together so they hold
the fuses more tightly. When you remove each female spade teminal, pinch it
with pliers so that it fits more snugly.

This should take care of MOST of these lighting problems!

SAFETY FAST!
ElectricsOverdrive SwitchJohn,

Thank you for telling me about the Overdrive/ TCSA switch function.

All electrical paths checked out but that one. I checked the new
switch after I removed it from the transmission and it was OK. The
problem was the plunger that activates the switch. It was frozen inside
the shifter remote control casting and wouldn't activate the switch.

After redrilling the shaft hole to remove some burrs, it works fine
now and all electrical paths are functioning properly. Obviously, the
transmission would have to be out of the car to discover the problem.
Now I know it will function properly after I reinstall the engine and
transmission.

Thank you for warning me about this before I had put everything back
together.

Ron Tugwell

RON!

Thanks for your nice note!
ElectricsAlternator WiringI have a 73 Jensen healey which came with a delco alternator. I have
been told the Lucas a1812 will work, so I purchased one. Now I don't
know how to hook it up. The delco had + - bat and Ind connectors, the
lucas has two large brass lugs, one smaller non brass lug, and a ground
lug on the housing. Any help would be appreciated. Enjoy you page.

Thanks
Roy Burnette

ROY! I hope I can help: The Lucas alternator has the three male spade
terminals: from the inside out: WIDE - WIDE - NARROW. The first WIDE is +
sensing; the second WIDE is the + output; the third spade, the narrow one,
is the INDICATOR lead. The alternator - connection is made through the
case. Hope this helps. John Twist
ElectricsOverdrive WiringMy overdrive gave out on me few weeks ago, it stays off so not too
much trouble.

However it's managed to burn out the wiring to the front of the car so
I've replaced that. I haven't missed something though have I, there is
only one wire to the over drive (via the switch)?

Also since this did not fix the problem I drained the gear box,
drained the overdrive and removed the solenoid, the wire that goes
into the sealed unit has sanpped off leaving 3/4mm protruding.

I have found an article by you on the web refering to rewinding and
repairing a solenoid, how did you get in to it to do this??

Thank you for any help you can offer...

Philip Dagnan

PHIL! Even before you rework the solenoid, be certain to fit an in-line
fuse to the overdrive circuit. We do this on ALL the MGBs we see fitted
with O/D. That circuit is now UNFUSED and can burn up the main harness,
right back to the ignition key if the short is bad enough!

Unwrap the plastic/paper from the solenoid, unwrap one turn of wire, and
solder a new piece of 18 AWG (American Wire Gauge!) wire to the fine
solenoid wire. Then tape the works back up again. You should be able to do
this without grossly increasing the diameter of the coil. If you have the
cast black plastic solenoid, this is not possible.

Good luck!
ElectricsReverse LightsHow do I make the revese lights work?To make your reverse lights work you need an operational switch on the gearbox and good lights are the rear of the car. The circuit works like this: The GREEN (HOT / IGN ON/ FUSED) provides power to the gearbox switch (junction of the main loom and gearbox loom). The switched lead (GREEN/BROWN) comes from the switch and goes to the rear lamps (junction of the rear loom and gearbox loom). The rear lights have to be grounded (ring terminal under the licence holder).

Test the circuit be jumping through the switch: Connect the GREEN/BROWN from the rear loom directly into the GREEN at the junction of the main and gearbox looms. Now, with the key on, the reverse lights should illuminate. If they don't, look at the bulbs and sockets.

Reconnect the gearbox switch: GREEN from main loom to GREEN of gearbox loom; GREEN/BROWN from gearbox loom to GREEN/BROWN of rear loom. With the ignition on, the lights should illuminate when you engage reverse.

Problems are: plugs disconnected from lamps; faulty switch; faulty bulbs -- in that order.
ElectricsReverse Lights SuccessJohn, with your help the reverse lights are now working! Thanks again
for all your help. Little by little I'm learning about these cars, and
working on them is lots of fun. Well, almost as much fun as driving
them. The next project is a '72 B. I may have more electrical
questions as this car needs a new wiring harness. Have a good week, and
I owe you one.

JAMES! Good going! Glad it all worked out!
ElectricsElectrical IssuesDEAR JOHN,
I HAVE NOT USED THIS SERVICE BEFORE AND I DO NOT KNOW IF I AM USING IT
CORRECTLY I.E., AM I SUPPOSED TO E-MAIL YOU OR FAX YOU AND DO I NEED TO
GIVE
YOU A CREDIT CARD # TO GET AN ANSWER TO E-MAIL (IF SO JUST LET ME KNOW SO
I
CAN GET THE # TO YOU ASAP).
MY FIRST CAR (1971) WAS A 1964 MIDGET. MY NEXT CAR WAS A 1972 MGB-GT.
THAT WAS A LONG TIME AGO ANG WHILE I USED TO BE VERY HANDY UNDER THE HOOD
AND
HAVE BEEN SURPRISED HOW MUCH HAS COME BACK TO ME AFTER 23 OR 24 YEARS, I
NEVER KNEW ANYTHING ABOUT ELECTRICAL TO SPEAK OF. I HAVE RECENTLY AQUIRED
A
1976 MGB THAT APPEARS TO BE IN REALLY GOOD SHAPE. THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE
PREVIOUS OWNERS HAVE REMOVED THINGS LIKE THE WINDSHIELD WASHER UNIT AND
OTHER
THINGS UNDER THE HOOD AS WELL AS HAVING GIVEN THE CAR ONE OF THE NASTIEST
PAINT JOBS ON THE PLANET. I CAN DEAL WITH THESE THINGS. IN ADDITION TO
UNHOOKING THINGS AND THEN HOOKING THEM BACK UP, I'M NOT SURE THE THINGS
WERE
HOOKED BACK UP PROPERLY. THE HORNS WORK WHEN YOU USE A WIRE TO CROSS THE
CONNECTIONS AT THE HORNS THEMSELVES BUT WHEN YOU PUSH THE HORN BUTTON YOU
GET
NOTHING(THERE IS FIRE TO THE SWITCH) OR IF YOU TOUCH THE ONE WIRE RUNNING
TO
THE SWITCH TO THE STEERING WHEEL, YOU GET A DULL LOW NOISE FROM THE HORN
AS
THOUGH IT IS TRYING TO SOUND BUT JUST CAN'T. HELP! I HAVE FINALLY GOTTEN
ALL THE LIGHTS TO WORK, HURRAY! I ALSO HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE BRAKE
PRESSURE SWITCH. IT HAS A HOT WIRE RUNNING TO IT, BUT DOES NOT WORK--I
HAVE
DISCOVERED THAT THE WIRE THAT RUNS FROM THE EMERGENCY BRAKE IS NOT HOOKED
UP
AND THERE IS NO CONNECTION ANYWHERE TO HOOK IT TO--HELP! THERE ARE OTHER
THINGS THAT I WILL NEED HELP ON IN THE FUTURE, ( I HAVE ALREADY GOTTEN
MUCH
HELP FROM YOUR ARCHIVE FILE) BUT FOR NOW I ALSO NEED TO KNOW HOW THE FUSE
BOX
SHOULD BE SET UP--I AM NOT SURE THAT WHO ERVER HOOKED THE WIRES BACK UP
DID
IT PROPERLY BECAUSE THE HORN LINE WHICH I BELIEVE SHOULD BE HOT ALL THE
TIME
IS ONLY HOT WHEN THE IGNITION SWITCH IS ON. WHAT COLORS GO TO WHICH POLES
ON
THE BOX--PLEASE HELP. IF I CAN JUST GET THE ELECTRICAL FINISHED THEN I
CAN
GET ON TO THE MECHANICS AND THEN THE ESTHETICS AND THEN TO DRIVING HEAVEN.
THANKS--GREG COTTON

GREG! Reading your note, all in capital letters, is a real eye burner!

The fuse box: If you look at the fuse box from the carburetter side,
then the left side, or front side of the box is the UNFUSED side. The right
side, or the rear side, is the FUSED side. Top to bottom on the front side:
1) Red with Green; 2) nothing; 3) WHITE; 4) BROWN. Top to bottom on the
rear side: 1) RED; 2 ) RED; 3) GREEN; 4) PURPLE. Half of all electrical
problems begin at the battery. CLEAN the battery, wash it down with baking
soda and water, tie it down, replace the battery clamps. Half of the
remainder of the problems come from a dirty fusebox. CLEAN your fusebox --
sandblast it, soak it in soda or ammonia -- something. Then pinch the fuse
contact together before fitting the fuses. Those two items will cover 75%
of your electrical problems.

The horn: You have a faulty contact at the center horn push. Ground
the horn brush (looks like a ball point pen with copper contacts) to see if
the horn works. If it does, then the problem is the horn push -- take it
apart and clean the metal contacts with 600 grit paper. Clean the ends of
the horn brush with the same paper. If the horn doesn't sound, earthing the
horn brush, then look further down the circuit -- is the purple/black wire
connected to the turn signal switch loom? Is the bush that wipes the back
of the steering wheel clean and in place. Simply test the circuit,
connexion to connexion until you find the high resistance, cleaning as you
go. It WILL work eventually!

The brake light switch: The brake light switch is located on the master
cylinder pedal box. It has two wires: GREEN and GREEN/PURPLE. The
pressure switch on the bottom of the master cylinder is the brake pressure
failure warning switch. This circuit is more complicated.

Remember, approaching any electrical malfunction WITHOUT a test light
and WITHOUT a schematic is a certain route to madness. Do you have both of
these?

Hope this little bit helps.

SAFETY FAST!
ElectricsCruise ControlAfternoon John

As sinful as it may seem, because of a leg problem, I must install a
cruise control in my 1951 MGTD. Has anyone done this before and what
type is recommended? Who manufacturers units that would be compatible
with the MG and how easy are they to install? I have done a minimal bit

of research and find there are types with magnets around the drive shaft

and another which goes in line with the speedometer cable for most cars.

But I don't know if either are compatible with an MG. Any information,
comment or recommendation would be appreciated.

Stu Keen

STU!

I believe there are three types of sensing units: high tension coil
wire; driveshaft magnet; and the speedo one (which is new on me!). I'm
certain you can make an attractive installation as I've seen some in MGBs
that simply disappear into the firewall. You might consider changing your
throttle to a cable design at the same time, as an MGA with a pedestal on
the firewall. I receive several inquires per year about cruise control --
I'd like to hear what you do, how you come out, on this one!
ElectricsBattery for 1971 MGB Dear Mr. Twist; I recently purchased two of the black plastic boxes to
fit
into the two battery holes in my 71 MGB roadster but am unable to find a
12
volt battery of the correct size to fit into one of the boxes. It would
have
to measure about 7 1/4 " by about 6 1/4" and this seems awful small to
start
this car. Do you have any suggestions on where to find a battery of this
size?
I just found your WEB page the other night and really enjoy all the
different things you hit on about the MGs. One of my sons just bought a
run
down 1973 MG and I am going to tell him of this site. Thanks. Ken

KEN!

I'd love to know the numbers of the cars you've purchased. I wonder
if we've seen them at the shop before?

The battery boxes are great for the six volt batteries, but not for
the twelve. I would remove the new box from the right, passenger, side of
the car and fit a group 26 twelve volt in there. Be certain to tie it down,
and to make the earth strap as short as possible (eight inches or so). Use
the one on the left to store tools or parts -- OR, fill it with ice and your
beverage cans the next time you take a trip!

If the battery box seems unusable, because of rust, simply cut a
piece of 3/4 plywood and fit that into the existing battery box -- that
should provide enough bottom support for the battery.

Come visit the next time you're downstate!

FAST FORWARD!
ElectricsCruise ControlThanks John for your reply. I have finished the installation of the cruise control in the MGTD. It went something like this:
I found that JC Whitney carried four cruise controls, but only one was applicable to the MG. Basic cost was $99 PLUS LABOR (MINE!) So what did it entail?
Well, for starters, the cruise control required a vacuum line. There are no vacuum lines in the TD. So I had to make one. Off came the hood (bonnet). Next I took out the breather and two-thirds of the intake manifold (there are three major pieces). I drilled in the center of the tubular "equalizer" intake manifold mounted to the engine block. Next I had to tap it to make threads for screwing in the vacuum hose nipple fitting. What a bear this was. Very thick aluminum or maybe it was cast iron. It took forever and I had visions of braking off the tap in the hole. I covered the bit and tap with grease to minimize metal filings falling into the manifold. I screwed the tap in and out very slowly. The diameter of the manifold was quite small thus the tap hit the opposite side before it was fully seated. Anyway, I coated the threads of the nipple with "make-a-gasket" solution and screwed the nipple in as far as it would go. I am confident it is a good seal.
Next I had to install a magnet on the drive shaft. Using a floor jack, I raised up the car and placed stationary jacks on each side. Then I crawled underneath, listening for any creaks of the 2000 pounds about to fall. I got the magnet wired on, then had to make a bracket to hold the sensor. I tapped the supports on either side of the drive shaft and mounted the pick-up sensor and routed the wires pass the master cylinder up in front of the firewall and into the cockpit through the hole where the wire harness passes.
So far so good, but then I received word from the NEMGTR that I should reverse the polarity of the MG, making the battery's Negative terminal chassis ground as is standard today. This would make the installation straight forward. Until getting the advice, I had planned to put in relays to circumvent polarity problems. I was told how simple it was to reverse, so decided to try. Initially the car would not run after making the switch. Whoops! Who says haste makes waste? I forgot the previous owner had installed a capacitive discharge ignition system and had transistorized one of the two fuel pumps (MK II has two as standard, but I have them electrically separated). I removed the cap, discharge system, which was designed for a positive ground system, and then everything ran fine. But soon I ran out of gas. I switched to the untransistorized fuel pump and I was up and running again. Upon investigation, I discovered I had fried the transistor in the old fuel pump. I removed the three component electronic circuit and restored the fuel pump back to its original mechanical configuration. It now runs fine.
Next, the servo was designed to pull the accelerator cable near the carburetor. There is NO cable in the TD, it is all metal rod linkage. This really limited where I could connect. Also, I had to find a place for the servo motor itself and the 43 inch cable attached. My main objective was to hide as much of this installation as I could so it would not appear obvious when showing the car. There were four possible locations but only one really met my objective. The manual said not to install the servo in the passenger compartment as it would be constantly operating and could be distracting. I figured the manufacturer had never considered putting it in a car with a noisy XPAG engine. Besides, the TD is a convertible and I figured the noise would not even be noticed. So I
installed the servo under the dash on the right side, passed the cable down behind the interior panel, through the floorboard, curved up over the exhaust pipe, pass the transmission and then up through the left floor board where it was attached to the accelerator pedal. I had to keep all bends in the cable to a minimum of 4 inches so it would not bind. My adrenalin might start pumping if the cable should snag and not release while going 60 mph.
Next I made all the electrical connections, to the coil, to positive 12 volts, to the brake light switch, to the ignition etc. Not knowing if this system would work, I did not cut any wires in case I had to return it. So, miles of wire were bundled up in the passenger compartment as I took off for my first test drive.
1) The servo responded only at 3500 rpm and was very erratic. I returned home and called the distributor of the Taiwanese product. I was told to change some dip switches. Off I drove again after making the changes.
2) I was able to actuate the cruise control anywhere between 2500 and 3500 rpm, but could not get it to respond above 3500. The system has a means of nudging the speed upward in half a mile an hour increments. I tried this, but it would not go any higher than 3550. I could feel the accelerator pedal being pulled by the cable but it would not hold. I returned home and made another call, getting a different technician. He said to change more dip switches and to reinstall the shorting plug which the manual said to remove for manual shift cars.
3) Vundabar! The cruise control performed flawlessly. I took the car up to 4500 rpm (the max I dare rev this 48 year old engine) and the cruise control kept it there. I did notice that sometimes when I actuate the control, it will speed up the car about 5 mph and then settle down to about where it was programmed. Probably has something to do about the magnet, the questionable smoothness of the XPAG or who knows what. Hakuna matata - not a problem. I could not even detect any noise coming from the servo. My hunches were right.
Now my project is to shorten all the wires and tidy up the installation.
The system, as installed, is virtually invisible. You see nothing in the cockpit, the controller/programmer flips down from under the dash and locks in place. In the engine compartment the ONLY thing you see is the vacuum hose. This can easily be disconnected and removed for show purposes. Then the only noticeable modification is the brass nipple on the manifold. However, it is now painted engine block red like the manifold and is directly under the breather and thus almost completely out of sight.
I read on the internet about the installation of a similar cruise control on two American cars. One guy said it took him three hours, the other said three days. In my case, I took a day planning the installation, seeing where and how everything would fit and analyzing many options. Then I took two and a half days to reverse polarity and install the system and a half day to run tests and make phone calls of distress.
The installation is fully functional.
Have a great day.
Stu,
ElectricsWiper switch question John
I have a 1973 mgb-gt manufacture date of 10/72. serial number in the
308,--- series
( sorry I do not have the entire number before me ) The car does not have
over drive.
The problem is I need a new wiper switch. and in looking through the
supply catalogs
that I have it appears that the switch is not in production.
Will a switch from a earlier year fit ? or a later year?
How about the midget series will any of those fit ?

Thanks for taking time with this minor question
Dave

DAVE!

You've probably already found a switch but this may help. A Midget
switch would work just fine. An earlier or later switch would work, too,
but you'll have to splice your plug onto the replacement switch. I cannot
believe that Moss, Victoria, or someone would NOT have that switch!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
Electrics1970 MG Midget My ignition light won't go out with engine running at 2000 rpm's. I
checked
the generator. The D terminal is putting out 1.5 volts at 2000 rpm. D and
F
together put out about 20 volts at 2000 rpm. Wiring is OK. Ground is OK. I
sit the control box??? I'm on my 3rd one now!!!

Thanks,
Jeff Hughes

JEFF!

This circuit involves four things: The Battery; The Generator; The
Control Box; and The Wiring.

The battery gravity should be about 1275 when fully charged, and
fully charged, it should spin your engine for thirty seconds without
dropping below 10.5 volts. The battery clamps should be nice and fresh.

The generator works or it doesn't. When you connect D to F at the
control box -- that is, you remove the BROWN/GREEN wire (F) and the heavy
gauge BROWN/YELLOW wire, and touch them together when the engine is doing
2000 rpm, you should have a BIG, FLASHY spark when you separate the wires
several seconds later. You either get this big flashy spark, or not. If
not, a problem with the generator.

The wiring is simply, but you DO need a ground for the system to
work. Add a ground, if you must, from the E terminal right to the battery.

Start up the car, turn on the headlights, have your associate hold
the rpm at about 2000 and disconnect a battery terminal. The car should
continue to run and the headlights continue to shine (although they will
seem to flicker).

Once in a blue moon (which I understand is much less frequently than
we all believe), there is a problem with the field windings in the
generator, causing a charging problem. If there is a problem with the
armature windings, the thing quickly stops working.

Your voltmeter should show about 14 volts at the battery with the
engine at 2000 rpms.

Hope some of this helps!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
ElectricsEarly 74 mgbI have a early 74 with electrical problems
1. Ignition light will not illuminate with engine not running(bulb is good
and ignition switch in the on position) and hot side seems to be on outer
jacket of bulb holder so I cannot tell if alt., is functioning
2. Head lamps are dim with engine running
3. All electrical appliances seem to run slow
Please respond if you can offer any suggestions
Philip W.Gilbert

PHILIP!

Obviously, the ignition warning light should come on when the key is
turned from OFF, through ACC, to the ON position. It should extinguish when
the engine exceeds about 800 rpm. If the light fails to illuminate there
are several possibilities: the light has burned out; the alternator is
faulty; the alternator connections have been reversed; or there are wiring
problems.

Remove the plug from the alternator -- the BROWN/YELLOW wire should
be the outermost. Take your 12v test light (like an ice pick); ground one
end on the engine; insert the other end into the BROWN/YELLOW socket of the
alternator plug; turn the ignition to ON. The test light should illuminate.
If it does not, the ignition warning lamp bulb is faulty or there are wiring
problems. Test both the other BROWN wires -- they should be HOT key ON or
OFF. If they are not, there are wiring problems.

The problem is probably a faulty alternator -- the brushes are worn
out or the regulator is fried. Contact me again when you've conducted the
tests above for the next step!

BTW! The Lucas alternators are not as durable as their American and
Japanese cousins. However, if you keep the battery posts CLEAN and TIGHT;
keep the battery clean and tied down; ensure that the wiring at the starter
solenoid is clean and not fractured, then the alternator will for for
THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS of miles.

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
ElectricsBackup lights on when in neutral I did have one current question I wondered if you could help with. When I put my 79B in the neutral position between 1st and 2nd gears the back up lights come on. Naturally when I shift from 1st to 2nd they flash as I go through neutral. Any idea what would cause this?

Thanks

Denny

Denny! The reverse light switch must be adjusted too deeply into the gearcase. It needs another shim (or more) underneath. This is a simple job, as the reverse light switch sits on the RH side of the gearbox, just at the position where the remote control attaches to the rear extension.

Hope this helps!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist, Service Manager
Electrics1977 Midget, turn signals The turn signals were operating at different speeds and I thought their
might
be a loose connection so I jiggled here and stuck a finger there. There
was
no smoke and there was no noise of fire, but the turn signals do not work
at
all. The same bulbs light for either so the bulbs are OK. The emergency
flashers do work. I checked the fuse diagram and the turn signals do not
have a dedicated fuse and all fuses were OK. I do not feel comfortable
going
into the dash for a loose wire or something else. I need help bad. I am
in
Farmington Hills, MI and would like to know if you can recommend a repair
shop in my neighborhood or give my some suggestions on trouble shooting I
may
be able to handle.
Thanks so much,
Matt Prosoli

Matt!

The problem with the turn signals is a difference in current passing
through the system, side to side. Either one of the lamps has a faulty
earth or one of the bulbs is not matched with the others, or both. Try
this: turn on the hazards and watch, carefully, at the front and at the
rear. Does one of the bulbs seem dimmer than the other?
If so, the problem is located in that lamp (either ground or bulb). Try
this: take your 12v test light, ensure a good earth, and make contact with
the four lamp bases in succession. If the test light glows, a faulty ground
is indicated. Try this: change both rear bulbs (1157 bulbs which will cost
you about $3.00). If that makes no difference, move those new bulbs to the
front.
One of these methods will diagnose or sort out your problem -- FOR
SURE!!

Contact Guy St John in Northville.

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist, Service Manager
Electrics1953 MGTD turn signal flasher I am the proud owner of a 1953 MG-TD, and was one of John Twist's first
customers back in the Stone Age, when all of us were younger....
My car is slowly being restored to its original condition, and I finally,
after 34 years, have the original turn signals working!
The flasher unit that was installed works ( it is a three-post,
purchased
from a local auto parts store) but the turn signal indicator light stays
on
all the time (it does flash when the unit is "on"...
Do I have the wrong type of flasher? What voltage, wattage, etc does it
require, or did I wire the thing the wrong way? I have moved all three
wires
on the unit around into different configurations, and it only works when
wired one way. The lights still flash on the car, but the dash light is on
constantly. Any ideas?
Also, my flasher indicator has a green lens - I have seen other MG's with
red lens. Which is correct? My car was built on July 14th, 1953, and we
figure it has a green lens due to its late production date. Moss Motors
catalogs indicate the unit is the same one used for the fuel indicator
light,
so it is green.....any ideas?

In advance, thank you for your assistance..

John L. Russell

John!

Nice to hear from you!

The turn lense, mounted in the centre of the dash, is supposed to be
green (I think). I know the ignition light is RED; I know the fuel light is
GREEN.

The flasher unit should be wired: X or B to the GREEN (battery)
wire; L to the GREEN/BROWN (Lights) wires; the P to the LIGHT GREEN (panel)
wire. I know the LUCAS units work correctly here -- we have fitted NAPA or
similar units in the past without difficulty. I wonder if your wiring is
mixed up?

Thanks for the note -- hope this little bit helps!

John
Electrics1980 mgb electrical questionHi John,
We met once at the TMGR meet in Waco TX hosted by Clay Sawyer and you referred me to an article once on Strombergs that helped. I need help again.

Here is the problem as occurred in chronological order:

1. My Air conditioner, fuel and temp guages stoped funtioning. I checked all fuses and connections in the box. OK. Still not working. THen they started working later???

2. My ignition light stayed on when engine running and got brighter with increased rpm. My battery eventually was dead and I got a new one.

3. Alternator still not charging. I then got it rebuilt.

4. Now, ignition light glows brighter (very bright) with increased rpms still.

SUGGESTIONS?

Randy Yates

Randy!

I believe you have two separate problems. First, you've got a faulty connection for your gauges. I don't remember if you have a 77-80 B or an earlier one. All B's have a fuse box that can corrode and lose contact with the fuses. REMOVE the fusebox and clean it!! Use a sandblaster, a solution of dilute acid, even a bowl of ammonia to soak it in -- but get it CLEAN and pinch the terminals dramatically to hold those fuses fast. In the 77-80 MGBs there is an IGNITION RELAY located to the FORWARD side of the fusebox. This has a BROWN, BLACK, WHITE, and WHITE/BROWN wire. Wiggle the wires and see if you lose your GREEN circuit (wipers,heater, gauges, brake lights, turn signals). If so, change this SPST relay with a LUCAS SRB 402 unit.

To correct the problem with the alternator: Remove and replace (preferably) or at least CLEAN the battery terminals. Ensure the battery is fully charged. Remove the wires at the starter solenoid (the heavy battery wire and the BROWN wires, all on the same stud), clean them, and replace them TIGHTLY, ensure that the alternator is plugged in correctly (BROWN/YELLOW towards the outside of the unit). On some models it is possible to connect the plug upside down. If these steps don't cure the alternator problem, take it back to your shop (or, send it here) and get if fixed correctly!

Hope all this helps a little bit!

John
ElectricsGauge wiring John -
I have had a water temp/oil pressure gauge for my 1953 MG-TD, and was
wondering if you could assist me in a question? I have had the car for 34
years (you have done work on it way, way in the past, back when you were a
new business) and have never had a water temp gauge that works. Now, it
will.
But: I have no idea how the coiled sending "wire" runs to the radiator,
where it screws into the upper part of the radiator.
Any ideas? I think it was coiled around the support for the radiator on
the
left side of the engine....
Your remarkds and insight are greatly appreciated..

John Russell


The capillary tube runs from the gauge down to the bottom left of
the firewall, through a grommet in the firewall, then along the left hand
radiator support rod, then it is coiled before it is fitted into the
expansion tank. Very often, an intermediate fitting is required.

You probably have this all fitted and working -- but if you have any
more questions, my backlog of technical questions is such that I should be
able to answer your next question quickly!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
ElectricsMGB Electrical Problem

Hi John,

Remember I mentioned that my nephew bought a '79 MGB? Well, now he's
encountered a problem, perhaps you can advise.

Electrical problem, this one sounds vaguely familiar to me but I don't
know
the late MGB's very well. First symptom seemed to be that the battery
would
occasionally go dead (not sure if this was related to the present
problem).
Then apparently today, he was driving the car and
the tach started bouncing around wildly, and the turn signals stopped
functioning. Then when he parked it & turned off the ignition, he noticed
that the ignition warning light and the brake warning light would not go
off
-- even with ignition off & key out. Next he noticed some smoke coming
from
under the hood -- no fire, just smoke. Looked under hood and he tells me
it
seemed to be coming from underneath the carburettor.

I seem to recall the late MGB's had some weird electrical problems, maybe
a
voltage stabilizer involved, is there an electric choke on the carb?

Any thoughts? I've cc'd my nephew on this mesage, if you have any ideas
please hit "reply all" and he will see your response. He lives 200 miles
from me so I'm not right there to look at things.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark Palmer

Mark!

It would seem that the problem lies not under the carb but within
the alternator -- on the other side of the engine.

All MGs need regular electrical maintenance -- and this 1979 is no
exception, only that besides the maintenance, it certainly needs some repair
now!

So, start at the battery: Remove the battery clamps; clean the
terminals on the battery; clean (or replace) the clamps; fit battery post
pads (to inhibit corrosion); remove, clean, and replace the earth cable;
clean the top of the battery with baking soda and water; charge the battery
fully (one day on a "trickle charger;" and tie the battery down. To do all
this, remove the soft top from the back and work over the rear fender, DO
NOT try to work with the top up -- you'll damage the dash by lying on the
back of the passenger seat! Now the battery is serviced.

Next, work with the connections at the starter motor. Remove the
wiring from the main terminal (the heavy black from the battery and the
several heavy browns from the wiring loom). Tighten the nut on the starter
solenoid stud (13mm), then refit the wiring. CAUTION HERE -- if you're
working under the car, rear wheels on the ground, be CERTAIN to leave the
car in neutral, as it's easy to hit the connection on the solenoid which
engages the starter motor, and THUMP, you'll walk the car off the jack
stands!!!

I am more than pleased to discuss any of this, or the repairs you're
facing, if you'll call me. You can call during the technical hour -- or,
you can call me at home 616 676 1031.

Hope this little bit helps!

John

SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
Phone: (616) 682 0800
Fax: (616) 682 0801
www.universitymotorsltd.com

John Twist is pleased to answer your technical enquiries during his
TECHNICAL HOUR. Call between 1-2 pm EST Monday-Friday.



ElectricsM.G.B 12 volt conversionJohn : I am trying to find a 12 volt batt. to fit in the passenger side of my 64 B.
but can't find one small enough to fit the frame. I read your note in the MGB Experience web site. What exactly is a Group 28, Is that the trade name, ie. Exide etc.? I reside ( winter ) near Tampa Fl. and am having a dificult time finding one to fit by any Mnfg.
Many thanks. Norm Mouldey.

NORM! You've probably already found a battery to work -- but we use group 26 (not 28). That will "just" fit into the box. Use new "American style" clamps on the battery. Move the earth cable from the left to the right side, too.

John
ElectricsHead Lamp Position On is Switched hello from southern tenn. weather may be a tad nicer,
but wet vs your snow. i have a 78 mbg. the new head
lamp switch on the left side of column shroud is at
off position when it is at a forward position toward
dash. the on positon is full rear near the steering
wheel. i had to replace to old switch and i remember
that off was at the rear, then flip it forward to park
lites and then full forward for head lamps. which is
correct since i don 't have an original owner's
manuel? have great day!

Kelly!

The switch is OFF when at its rear most position -- the same
configuration as you remember with your original switch. Simply reverse
the positions of the BROWN and the BLUE wires on the switch and you'll have
it correct!

John
Electrics69' B Roadster, Guages turn erratically while ignition is oI have a `69 B roadster that the gauges operate erratically on. I have driven the car as a daily driver for the last 3 years and 12,000+ miles with no problems. But 2 weeks ago the battery failed in the vehicle for the second time this year. After replacing the battery and starting the car I noticed that none of the gauges were working, I jiggled the wires behind the dash and they came back on. They went out once more and the same strategy solved the problem the second time. However, the problem has become much worse in the last day or so. Whenever the gauges go out a set of wires in the back of the dash (the ones that control fuel pump and ignition and plug into the tach) heat up and the radio lights flicker and then go out and the gauges follow suit. The problem appears to be heat related since when the car is cool or has sat for a few minutes the gauges work for a little while. This morning I drove the car about two miles, during the drive I left the radio on, everytime I stepped on the brake the radio would go off and come back on when I released the brake. I parked the car and turned the radio off, then I stepped on the brake, the radio clock lights went out, the guages fell to their resting places, and the brake lights went out. I drove the car home with no guages or brake lights. An hour or so later I went out and checked my fuses, they were all good. Out of curiosity I started the car to see if they would work, they did. I drove the car about three miles and then parked it. The guages, radio, and lights worked perfectly the whole time. I am baffled by this problem with the gauges and radio. Any suggestions that you may have would be greatly appreciated.
Robert Fairey

Robert!

I believe the problem is simply the fusebox. Try this for starters: Remove the fusebox from the car, sandblast it if you have access to some sort of media blaster -- or, failing that, place the fusebox into a bowl of ammonia -- something to clean the green and corrosion from the contacts. Once clean, pinch the "fingers" that hold the fuses, and, pinch the female spade terminals. With good connections and a clean fusebox, this problem should be eliminated.

John
Electrics1971 MGB Electrical ProblemJohn,

Thank you for your earlier assistance in determining that my intermittent
hesitancy and tach swing was the result of a loose ground connection to
my
starter solenoid.

A few weeks ago, I brought my 1971 B into a local body shop for some
repaint
work. Misc. scratches, nicks, etc. When I got it back, I noticed an
oddity... when driving with the lights off, it was running about 1000 rpm
on
idle, when I turned the lights on (either parking or beams) it dropped
down
to 800 rpm. At speed, the 200 rpm difference also occurred. I checked the
connections which the body shop had cut and reconnected to all the parking
lights and resoldered them. No change. This problem does not occur with
the
radio or heater fans on... cause? corrective measure to take?

Also,possibly related, when driving back from an away event, I decided to
keep up with a Porche 914 and was running 90 mph area on an open stretch
of
the Interstate for about 15 minutes. When I slowed to exit, flipped my
lights on to say "farewell", shifted to neutral and the car stalled! I
was
able to restart easily by turning the key. This issue continued all the
way
home whenever I shifted to neutral prior to stopping. When I returned
home,
I increased the slow idle back to 1000 rpms and the problem has not
repeated
itself... cause? comment?

Thank you in advance for your assistance!

Best regards,

Bart & Audrey Savino


Bart!

I've read your letter twice and cannot determine if, in fact, the
engine changes speed. I suspect it is not changing speed, it's just the
tachometer which changes the indicated rpm. If this is the case, then the
problem probably lies with the power or earth connection right at the
tachometer. The dash lights require an earth, and if that earth is
marginal, then the power required to run the dash light in the tach may be
affecting the voltage passing through the tach. So -- find the BLACK wires
which earth the tach and make certain they're connected under the knurled
knobs which hold the tach fast to the dash.

About the running problem. I wonder if one of the carb pistons is
sticking up just a bit (which would lean out the idle and cause it to
stall). I would take the suctions chambers loose, clean them THOROUGHLY
with spray carb cleaner, and set up the mixtures. Or, it may be that you
damaged the points which has closed them up, increasing the dwell, and
retarded the timing. Point gap is 0.015", dwell is 60 degrees, timing is
about 20 BTDC at idle.

Let me know what you find!

John
ElectricsAlternator Problem
John,
I replaced the alternator on a 1974 MGB GT. I am still not getting a
charging voltage at the battery. I checked the voltage at the plug that
attaches to the alternator. The center terminal reads 12 volts, the A
terminal 12 volts but the I terminal is only 1/2 volt when the ignition
switch is turned on; should that also read 12 volts? Perhaps there is
excessive resistance in that circuit. I am thinking of running a jumper
from the battery to the I terminal and then checking the charging
voltage. Is this a good move?

The schematic shows that the I terminal is connected to the Alternator
warning light. I can't recall ever seeing an alternator warning light.
Is it possible I don‚'t have one? Thanks

Fred Jacobowitz

Fred!

YES, your 1974 MGB/GT DOES have an ignition light. It lies between
the tach and speedo, next to the bright light indicator (blue). The
ignition warning light lense is red. It may be that the bulb has burned
out. You may find it helpful to remove the air control from the dash before
you try to snake your hand up behind the dash to remove the bulb. This bulb
receives power from the ignition switch on a WHITE wire which is HOT with
the ignition ON and it is UNFUSED. The bulb grounds through the
BROWN/YELLOW wire which winds it way, through the loom, to the alternator,
and should be connected to the outmost, small spade terminal. "I" is for
Indicator. When you turn the ignition ON, the bulb grounds through the
alternator rotor and then to ground. When the alternator begins spinning
and making voltage, the "I" terminal rises to charging voltage -- placing
the same voltage on each side of the indicator bulb, extinguishing the
filament.

The plug to the alternator should carry this BROWN/ YELLOW wire,
along with a heavy gauge BROWN (charging/output) wire, and perhaps a light
gauge BROWN (sensing) wire. The two BROWNS should be hot ignition ON or
OFF.

You should be able to ground the BROWN/YELLOW with a jumper and with
the key switch ON, get the ignition light to illuminate.

Some rebuilt alternators are faulty.

Let me know if I may be of more service or help.

John
Electrics1952 MGTD Fuel Warning Light John,

I hope you can take the time to answer a technical question for me. I have
a 1952 MGTD that has a problem with the fuel warning light. I removed the
float switch from the gas tank and found it to be froze-up. It had the
original cork type gaskets. I opened up the housing and found some old gas
with varnish smell inside. I have removed the rubber and insulator
material
and soaked it in carburetor cleaner. The mechanism now works OK. I bought
a
gasket set from Moss Motors. The gaskets are made of a rubber-like
material.

My question is this. Should there be some kind of oil or something inside?
If I close up the unit with air inside, will gas leak inside the unit and
if it does, will that cause an explosion when the electrical contact is
made? None of my books say anything about the switch/sending unit.

Thanks in advance,

Dave Parker

Dave!

I have never seen a fuel sending unit explode, nor have I ever heard
of one catching fire -- not in 30 years in the trade, so it must not occur.
It may be that the air/fuel mixture is too heavily fuel so there's not a
mixture to ignite. It may be that the spark is so miniscule that it just
doesn't have the heat necessary to ignite the mixture.

However, on many (most, all?) the units, there is a very thin copper
wire wound loosely around the axle that holds the copper contacts, and that
wire is attached both the to the axle and to ground. This wire then carries
the current rather than trusting an erratic contact made between the axle
and the pot metal base.

Be cautious of those neoprene (or whatever they are) gaskets.
Sometimes they'll balloon up and leak like a sieve. Moss says they've
tested these things in all sorts of fuel -- but something, sometimes, makes
them fail. We always use cork ones in the shop.

Hope this helps!

John
ElectricsMG TD Add Turn Light John,
I am rebuilding a 1952 MG TD and mine did not originally come with
turn signals, however I would like to add them to make it more
practical for everyday use. I am currently rewiring the entire car
and purchased a wiring harness with built in wiring for the turn
signals. What else do I need to do to fit turn signals to this car??
Do I have to replace the bulbs and the housing for the tail lights and
the front sidelamps, or do I need to add something new all together??
Thanks for the guidance in finishing this project.
Kate

Kate!

In addition to the wiring loom, you'll need a three pole flasher
unit; a turn signal relay; a turn signal switch; two new sockets for the
front wing lamps; and a dash indicator (if you wish to fit it). If you
don't fit the dash light, then go with a more modern two pole flasher (as a
1980 MGB turn signal flasher unit). If you don't want to purchase the
switch and relay new (probably $400 together), then find used ones on eBay
(you can always fix the old ones), OR, you can make up these parts with
non-original parts from radio shack for about $30. You have to fit those
front dual filament bulb holders, though. Hope this helps.

John
ElectricsThe Light That FlickersI hope all is well. It was a pleasure to see you again at the meet in Dallas in July. Your seminar on valve adjusting was the most easy to understand and helpful that I had ever attended.

I recently replaced the ignition relay on my 1979 'B. It would start but not run, and this seems to have fixed the problem, as it is now running fine. However, since the replacement, the ignition light on the instrument panel flickers. There seems to be no pattern to the flickering, as it flickers at all rpm levels. I had the idea that there was a loose wire, but could not find one that seemed to be loose in the area of the relay.

I would appreciate any help that you may be able to offer.


Jim Pendleton

Jim!

Thank you for a most wonderful compliment!

The circuit for the ignition warning lamp is this: One leg of the warning light is connected to the field diodes on the alternator. There are no splices or connections (LUCAS -- Loose, Unsoldered Connexions And Splices) between the lamp and the plug at the back of the alternator. If there is a problem with the alternator, the light might flicker. But, of course, the light should remain extinguished during normal running. The fact that it illuminates indicates a bad connexion either at the back of the alternator, within the alternator, or at the starter solenoid.

The other leg of the circuit provides power from the ignition switch. A WHITE wire leaves the ignition switch, runs through a plug, then to the ignition warning light. If this wire were to occasionally earth, then the light would flicker -- but, on the other hand, if it occasionally earthed, the WHITE circuit would incinerate -- so it's not that!

I'd put my money on the alternator or connexions at the starter motor solenoid.

Let me know what you've found!

Flickers: Isn't that the "full" position on the Lucas Lighting switch -- Flicker, Dim, Off?

Good luck!

John
ElectricsIgnition Warning LightMr. Twist:

Any help would be appreciated. '56 MGA 1500; Ignition Warning Light came on, found dynamo armature wrappings burned, disintegrated. Replaced dynamo, but Warning Light burned brighter and pulsed; was told likely 'fried' voltage regulator when dynamo burned up. Replaced voltage regulator, same result, warning light still brighter and pulsating.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Gary Hancock

Gary!

There are four components in the system: Dynamo (Generator); Control Box (Regulator); Battery; Wiring.

First of all, polarise the dynamo. Do this by jumping between the A and F terminals on the control box. Spark, Spark! Just jump these terminals twice -- don't linger with your jumper wire (or screwdriver, or paperclip, or penny) -- just spark, spark, and it's done.

Now, remove the YELLOW/GREEN from the F terminal of the control box. Remove the heavy gauge YELLOW from the D terminal of the control box. Have your associate start up the engine and rev it to about 2000 rpm. Touch these wires together, hold them together for maybe two seconds, then separate them. You should be a LARGE, FLASHY spark (it's about 100 volts!). If you DO, then the dynamo is OK; if you don't then the dynamo (or wiring) is faulty.

If the dynamo works and the light remains on, then purchase and fit a new control box.

That should do it!

Questions? Call me in the evening.

John
ElectricsThe Light That Flickers Cont.Thanks for your quick response. I found that the brown wire with the yellow tracer was not connected. I also found that the screws that hold the plastic cover on the back of the alternator were missing. I was unable to get the spade connector on the brown with yellow tracer wire to plug into anything on the alternator. I removed the white plug from the alternator and found that three spades were intact in the back of the alternator. There doesn't seem to be anything in the white plug to hold the brown/yellow wire, although the other two wires are securely fastened. Is something missing from the plug?

Moss does not show the white plug nor the screws to hold the plastic cover on the alternator in their catalog. Any further advice that you can offer for the mechanically declined would be most appreciated.


Jim!
Just use some small (maybe #4?) Phillips screws from the hwd store to hold the cover on.

The BROWN/YELLOW spade has a barb -- fold this barb outwards and then slip the spade into the white plastic block. The barb should hold the spade in place. Now you should have three wires in the plug to connect to the three spades on the alternator.

John
ElectricsImproper wiring connections Ref:
1) Official MGB 1975-1980 Workshop Manual, Section Na.12, page 246.
2) Tech Tips in Moss Restoration Parts & Accessories Catalog MGB-16

John,

1. I would like to solicit your help in identifying the proper connections
for the two (2) wiring harnesses that connect to the Transmission on a
1977
MGB w/Overdrive.

- I can account for all the connections on Harness #1....... to the Rev
Switch, OD Inhibit Switch, OD Switch on Gear Shift, and OD Solenoid, which
is consistent with the wiring diagram in Ref 1) (above)

- The problem is with Harness #2 that connects the "Vacuum Advance Relay"
(on the Break Pedal Box) to the "Micro Switch" (mounted on the
Transmission). There are two (2) wires (a Yellow/Brown and a White/Brown)
in this bundle with no apparent place to terminate. Note: There are
"bullet
connectors on both ends of both these wires, plus there is connector
sleeve
on one end of the yellow/brown wire.

- Ref 2) indicates the yellow/brown wire goes to ....Drivers's Seat Belt
to
Time Delay Buzzer; however, I do not see any place in the transmission
tunnel (under the car) to make this connection.

2. Any advice you have to offer would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Paul!

Let's start at the connection between the main harness, the rear
harness, and the gearbox harness, located at the rear of the right front
inner fender. There is a four-way Lucas female connector which receives
power from a WHITE wire, and transfers that to another WHITE wire from the
rear loom to operate the fuel pump. This is an unfused circuit! Also
connected to this four way connecter is a WHITE/BROWN wire, most often
encased in a black plastic sheath. Later cars have this wire part of the
gearbox loom. This WHITE/BROWN **MUST** be fused to ensure that the loom
doesn't burn up from a dead short. Simply fit an in-line fuse between the
bullet connector and the WHITE/BROWN wire.

This WHITE/BROWN is connected to a YELLOW/PURPLE and then enters the 3/4
lockout switch, on the top left of the remote control housing. A YELLOW
(*)wire leaves this switch (which goes hot in 3rd or 4th gear) and is
connected to what looks like a "micro-switch" at the front of the remote
control assembly. This micro-switch goes continuous in reverse, 2nd, and
4th. Leaving that switch is eventually a YELLOW/RED which goes up the TCSA
(transmission controlled spark advance) switch on the brake master cylinder
box. So, the only time the TCSA switch can receive power is when the gear
lever is in 3rd or 4th AND in reverse, 2nd, or 4th. So -- that TCSA switch
is powered ONLY in 4th gear.

If you have overdrive, then there is yet another YELLOW wire which
connects to the YELLOW/RED connectors and goes to the overdrive switch in
the gear lever. From the gear lever, there is a YELLOW/PURPLE which goes to
the overdrive solenoid.

The whole point of this is to run the TCSA switch only in fourth,
and to allow the overdrive to work only in fourth.

By 1978, the two switches had been replaced by a single switch
(still located at the left top of the remote control assy).

Trying to explain all this without a wiring diagram is so very
difficult.

Send me your fax number and I'll fax back the FACTORY wiring diagram
(which is wrong), but it may be better than yours!

John
Electricsline fuse John,

Thanks.

I found the location of the Junction Connector you identified, and the
White/Brown wire that goes to the Switches/Connections on the
Transmission
& Over Drive Solenoid. It is my understanding that I only need to
install
a "line fuse" in the White/Brown line that goes to the transmission. Is
that correct?

Regards,
Paul!

Yes! Just fit an in-line fuse to that WHITE/BROWN wire and fit
about a 10amp fuse to the holder.

John
ElectricsRadioQuick question: that Sony radio you installed a few years ago has stopped working (no power). I don't see a blown fuse, and the line fuse to the radio seems intact.

Can you give me a suggested troubleshooting list? In particular I'd like to figure out whether current is reaching the radio and I don't know the best way to check that.

Thanks in advance for your reply. - Terry
Terry!

First of all, arm yourself with a 12v test light. Don't use a meter -- you'll get confusing readings. The test light either works or it doesn't. So -- test the radio power wire, then find the white/green wire behind the radio console -- that should go hot with the key is turned from off to acc. Then come back to the steering column and test that wire at the key switch. Your failure to get power to the radio lies somewhere along this circuit. Find it logically by backing up to the ignition switch.

Hope this helps!

John
ElectricsAlternator 78B
Hello , I have a 1978 MGB Roadster, and have some questions that I hope you can help me with?
After driving the car for about 2 or 3 months the regulator on the alternator goes, once its bin replaced the car runs fine again, until the 2 to 3 months is up, what is wrong??
I am also leaking anti-freeze, not from any hoses, the rad, or thermostat. It starts leaking once the car belts start moving? When the car sits it won't leak????

Thank You,
Well -- you've got an interesting problem with the alternator. Here are some "rules." The Lucas alternator is a good unit as long as the battery is never jumped; the battery cable ends are kept clean and right (that means remove them, clean the clamps and the posts, and refit); and the main connection from the battery to the wiring is tight -- at the starter solenoid.

Here are some more: The rectifier is always the unit that fails, so ALWAYS solder in a new one. Always change the brushes, as they're so inexpensive. The regulators never go bad. To every rule there is an exception.

So -- what's wrong with yours? I am loathe to diagnose it from this distance, but I simply cannot believe that your regulator keeps failing. I believe you're continuing to mis-diagnose the problem.

The water pump can (and sometimes does) leak ONLY when the car is running. So, take the car for a run then let it idle and watch under the pump. That should tell you the truth!

Hope this helps!

John

ElectricsBrushes for Lucas dynamo Dear Mr. Twist,

I have a 1925 Rover 16/50 (in the family since my grandfather bought it
new
in England) containing a Lucas "dynamo type E.418.L 12 volt" (according to
the service manual). It works, but I have no idea how old the brushes are
and feel I should try to obtain a new set (of three). In browsing the
internet, I found that you service Lucas dynamos, but possibly not ones
going back to 1925. On the other hand, the same brushes may have been
used
on many generations of dynamo. Can you help?

Regards,

Kenneth
Kenneth!

I do not know if the brushes I have would work -- but you know that
an "old fashioned" starter/generator shop in your home town will certainly
have brushes that will work. The nice thing about the carbon brushes is
that you can ALWAYS make larger ones smaller with some relatively fine
sandpaper (220 grit). The opposite, of course, is not possible! In any
case, I bet your local shop can help you out just fine!

John
Electricsre-polarise GeneratorHi John,
I wonder if you had any ideas about a problem I'm having with my B?
My friends at the body shop connected the battery with a negative ground
as opposed to the right way! It had been driven about 5 miles that way.
I replaced the bad fuse for the radio and that now works. However the
battery fails to hold a charge. The ignition light glows (1/2 bright) on
occasion at speed and certainly when the headlights are on. I have
tightened the fan belt to ensure no slippage. I have had the generator
tested too and that's OK. Help!
regards,
Marty
Marty!

At worst, both the generator and control box are damaged. At least,
you'll want to re-polarise the generator.
Follow these steps:

1) Polarise the control box -- with a jumper wire, flash twice between the
starter solenoid "hot" lead and the "F" (smaller) terminal on the back of
the alternator. Now the system should work correctly.

2) With the engine running about 2000 rpm and headlights ON, disconnect the
negative lead on the battery. If the engine continues to run, then the
charging system is working.

3) With the engine running about 2000 rpm, disconnect the D and F wires
from the back of the generator. Use your jumper wire and connect these two
terminals together for about one second, then break the connection. If you
get a large flashy spark, the generator is working. If you don't get the
spark, remove the dynamo and send it out for repair.

4) Repair of the control box is an exercise in futility. Purchase a new
one if you have to.

Hope this helps.

John
ElectricsStarter Motor In 4th gear, I can push my
car,
and the engine revolves, so it is not seized. I tried the test you
suggested, and when I touch the brown/white wire to the spade, nothing
happens-- no spark, no turning starter motor. Zip. I thjough it would be
easier to test the starter out of the car, so I pulled it. I used jumper
cables, and hooked the - cable to the starter motor case. When I touch
the
+ lead to the middle spade lug, the solonoid kicks out the gear that
engages
the flywheel. Nothing happens when I touch the + lead to the other two
spades. My Haynes says to connect a jumper between the battery and the
STA
terminal of the starter, and try it; but I haven't done so, as I don't
want
to screw anything up. Any additonal tests I can try to determine if the
starter motor or solonoid is bad? My though is that if they both pass,
it's
the relay, of course that shows what I know. I appreciate the help. Pat
Pat!

At the most, the solenoid has four connections. The bottom most
stud (as fitted to the car) is the isolated power connection -- your battery
cable and the BROWN wires to the electrical system connect here. The STA
stud is connected directly to the brushes within the starter motor. The
"normal" sized spade terminal is connected to the pull and hold coils in the
solenoid. The much smaller sized spade is the battery voltage output for
the 1974-1979 MGBs with a reduced coil voltage circuit.

Connect one jumper lead to the case (makes no difference which one).
Connect the other jumper to the isolated terminal (usually carries a spade
terminal). Use a small screwdriver, something, and jump between the HOT
stud and the spade for the solenoid. The solenoid should SLAM closed and
the starter motor should spin FAST! You an also connect one jumper to the
STA terminal -- this will spin the starter motor but NOT work the solenoid.
Let me know what you find out.

BTW -- in the second test, better to connect the jumper to the STA
terminal first, then touch the starter case second. This does not damage
the threads on the solenoid by arcing.

John

ElectricsTF Wiring
Hey John,

A few months ago I dismantled my TF dash for refinishing. I tagged or
made notes in order to rewire correctly. However I seem to have
confused myself somewhat and need some help.

The amp indicator Ihave the brown/white wire noted to the left pole
and the brown to the right, I don't know if I was looking from the front
or rear when I made that note.

The same for the ignition switch, does the brown/blue wire go to the
left when viewed from the car seat, the white to the right? There is a
faded cloth covered wire from the lite switch, which pole does this go
to?

I have a shop manual and wiring diagram but the switches are not
imprinted or marked so I can't say which is pole 36 or 9 on the
ignition switch. (None of the others are either). All the other stuff I
properly tagged or left wired.
Bob!

Ammeter: Try the connections one way -- turn on the lights, the ammeter
should show a discharge. If the ammeter shows a charge (+), then reverse
the connections. This wiring depends on the polarity of the car, too.

Light Switch: The Brown/Blue wire is the power wire and the White wire
powers the fuel pump/fusebox/ignition light. It makes NO difference which
way these are connected as the switch is simply an OFF-ON switch.


The faded wire is more difficult. The Light Switch has a Brown/Blue for
power; red goes out to the various lamps; and Blue goes to the headlight
dimmer switch (where it's switched to Blue/White for Bright; and Blue/Red
for Dip. Among the many red wires is one from the dash loom that goes to
the dash light switch (first position instrument lights/second position
"map" lights up under the cowl). So, it may be that the fabric covered wire
is the one that goes to the RED connection of the Headlight switch. If you
cannot determine the positions of the switch (A is power, S1 is the first
step in the switch (reds), S2 is the second step in the switch (Blue), then
use your 12v test light to test and Brown/Blue for power.

I hope this little bit has helped you out!

John

Electrics22258 GeneratorJohn: Did the 22258 Generator have a cooling fan installed on it typically? This one from the '57 I'm working on did not. I notice Vicky Brit only has the fan listed for the C40 Gen while Moss has fans listed for the 22258 and the C40 models.

Problems in running without it?????

Thanks again...

Marv

Marv!

All generators SHOULD have a cooling fan on them. It's a quick fit if the pulley comes off without a great struggle! I would add it if it were mine or in my shop.

John
ElectricsAlternator Mr. Twist,
I read that you will not handle these prior to 1 Sept and that is fine.
Here is my question regarding a '72 MGB. When the alternator is attached
to
the engine, but the wiring is not connected, I attached my test meter with
one lead to the center or middle terminal of the plug receiver on the back
of the alternator and the other lead to the head (for ground) and got a
complete circuit. Is this supposed to happen or does that indicate a
problem with the alternator?
Thanks for whenever you can get to it. I live in the middle of no where
so
more proximate sources of knowledge just don't exist.
Roger
Roger!

You must suspect a problem with the alternator or you wouldn't be
checking this out. You know, when you turn the ignition ON, the ignition
warning light should illuminate. When you exceed about 800-1000 rpm the
ignition warning light extinguishes, showing that the alternator is
charging.

On the plug at the back of the alternator, the inner most spade is
probably unused, even though it may have a light gauge BROWN sensing wire
from the solenoid attached to it. The center spade is the OUTPUT spade with
a heavy gauge BROWN wire. The outermost spade, the "normal" sized spade is
the indicator lead which carries a BROWN/YELLOW wire.

If you test both BROWN wires, they should be HOT. If you test the
BROWN/YELLOW wire, the earthed test light should illuminate when you turn
the ignition switch to ON.

If you place an ohmmeter between the center spade and earth, you'll
find infinite resistance in one direction (negative earth); and about 1,000
ohms in the other direction (positive earth).

If you connect your test light to a power source, then touch the
alternator case to ensure it is working, the light will illuminate when
touched to the outer, indicator lead. It will NOT light when touched to the
middle, power, or to the inner, sensor, spade.

Hope this helps.

John
ElectricsBlinkersJohn


Two weeks ago I noticed that my blinkers were not "blinking" I checked all
the lights and they are lighting even on the dash but when I turn on the
turn signal either direction the lights inside and out come on but don't
blink. Any sugestions for what I need to check?
Dave
Dave!

The turn signal flasher is very voltage sensitive. If the
alternator is not making 14 volts, the turns won't wink. If there are
faulty grounds then not enough current can pass through the turn signal
flasher unit and it won't wink. So:

Check you fan belt. Is it tight? You should not be able to rotate
the alternator pulley anti-clockwise. Do you have a voltmeter? If you do,
connect it to the bottom fuse and to ground. When the engine is doing 1000
rpm or above, the alternator should be producing 14 volts.

Turn on your hazard lights. Watch both the front and the rear
lamps. They should be BRIGHT! If they seem dimmer than normal, then check
for a good ground at each lamp. Test for the ground by using a test light.
Place one end of the test light on a good ground -- a bolt on the engine,
for instance. Then, test the test light! Use the bottom fuse for a power
source. Now, with the turn signals turned on, push the ice-pick end of the
test light onto the base of the turn signal lamp. If the test light glows,
then there is a faulty earth. It would be odd to have both earths faulty at
the same time, but it could happen.

However, the problem is probably a faulty flasher unit. You can buy
a simply turn signal flasher at NAPA for a couple of bucks. Plug it in and
see if that makes a difference!

Hope all this helps, Dave!

John

ElectricsElectricalMr. Twist,
1. I have a 1980 MGB. For quite some time now I have been having an electrical problem. It started out being a very little problem, but have very slowly, been becoming worse. In order to explain my problem, I will give some senarios.....

When I turn my heater fan on, the turn signals do not work, the blinking light just stays on.
When I have my windsheild wipers on, and I turn my headlights on, the wiper speed slows down.
If I have my headlights on, the turnsignal works very slowly.
When I have the headlights and the wipers on, the turnsignals dont work at all unless I turn the dash-lights all the way down.
When at a stop light with multiple devices running, the turnsignals do not work although when I rev the engine up, they start blinking slowly.



These are a few observations that I have made although that is not all the instances.Now here's what I have done in my quest to solve this problem.

I have replaced both the positive and negetive cables coming from the battery.
I have checked my motor-mount ground and it's fine.
My father, an electrician, checked my grounds and the multimeter determined that my grounds are fine.
I have a 1 to 2 volt drop at the fuse box. we noticed that some of the power-carrying lines at the fuse box didn't look very good so we replaced those connectors and it sped the blinker up, but did not solve the problem.
My battery is fine. It doesn't have a bad cell.
When I replaced the Battery cables, once again, it helped but did not fix the problem. It sped my starter(revs) too.



My father believes that the problem lies somewhere near the power wire that leaves the starter solinoid and that powers the components. He says that the wire is so small and carries so much that it might need to be replaced, or the terminals at the starter are also bad.

What is your opinion? Have you run accross this problem before? Do you have any advise?

Thank you very much for your help.

2. I checked the belt for tightness and it was fine. I removed the fusebox and cleaned it. It didn't look that dirty but I cleaned it up and it helped, but didn't cure the problem.

When I checked the voltage, I checked it a the fusebox, at the bottom fuse (since it was hot even when the ignition was off) and found that when the car was turned off, I had aprox. 12.47 volts. When I first started the car though the auto-choke was engaged and the idle was higher I don't know how high it was but the voltage reading was approx. 14.00 volts. when I blipped the accelerator and the Idle went down, to 500 rpm, I got the reading of 12.96.

About the ignition light on the dash. At night for example, I start the car, the light is on until i rev the engine up to 800-1000 rpm, and then the light goes off. When I turn the headlights on and rev the engine or just drive the car around. The ignition light is barely on, but as the rev's go up, the light gets much brighter. Then, when I drop back down into idle, the light fades back down to barely visible.


Sincerely,
Mike
Mike!
1. The turn signals are very voltage sensitive -- their slow blink rate or no blinking indicates that the voltage in the electrical circuit is too low. Here are some things to do:

Clean the fusebox -- actually remove it and sandblast or glassbead the unit -- or, let is soak in ammonia or dilute acid (not both!) for a little while, until the terminals return to their natural copper color. Be careful in reinstallation as the unit does have a top and bottom -- the top, front, two terminals are bridged.

Check the voltage in the circuit -- you should find 14 to 14.5 while running (vs 13 when the engine is off). Sometimes the fan belt is so loose that the alternator pulley just doesn't turn quickly enough. Sometimes there's a fault within the alternator. I suspect you have an alternator problem -- loose belt, corroded connections, faulty regulator -- something like that.

Write back when you've done the fusebox cleaning and have checked the voltage and tightened the fan belt. We'll go from there. Oh -- by the way, tell me about the ignition light. It should illuminate when you turn the key on, then extinguish when you've exceeded 800-1000 rpm, never to illuminate or glow again, no matter the condition.

2. The fact that the alternator light glows indicates a problem with the charging. Although it might be corroded battery posts or a loose connexion at the starter solenoid, it's probably the alternator. You can probably have yours rebuilt at an electric shop for less than $100. Be wary of "rebuilt" units offered in stores and through major suppliers -- they're often not very good.

Hope this helps a bit.

John
ElectricsWiring 69 MidgetJohn
I am restoring a 69 midget and i am down to rewiring it. I have a new
front and rear harness but I am not sure where to start on either the
front
or the rear? My second question is the wiring diagram in the haynes
repair book, is that enough of info to do this job and if not where can I
find the info I need?

I have done anything like this before and have outside help (Jim and other
club members) but I want to have what they need when the time comes to ask
for there help.

Thanks for your time and advice.

Carl
Carl!

The job is not as daunting as it first appears.

#1 -- get a wiring schematic for YOUR YEAR specifically, not some
generic thing from Haynes. If you want the REAL THING, I'll make a copy for
you. Now, you can either get multiple small copies, you can get multiple
larger copies, or you can get a large poster. The large poster is really
helpful, unless you still have your 20/20 vision!

#2 -- lay the wiring into place, physically. Stretch, bend, wrap --
and get is laid out.

#3 -- connect the loom wire by wire. Start at the corners (easiest)
and work towards the dash. Don't waste time "checking" each circuit as you
go. It'll be wrought with frustration -- just do the WHOLE job.

#4 -- don't connect the battery tightly at the beginning -- just a
loose connection will do. Test the lights and ignition functions (wiper,
heater, etc).

#5 -- polarize the generation (simply jump between A and F on the
control box -- twice -- briefly -- "spark, spark" and it's all done).

#6 -- Test the function of everything.

WARNING! Approaching an electrical malfunction without the proper
schematic and a test light is a certain route to madness.

John

ElectricsParking LightsMr. Twist:
Read your articles in the COMGO magazine and I hope you can help. I have a 1952 TD which I had a frame up restoration done by British Cars Ltd. of St Louis in 1998. All wiring is new. A few years ago, my parking lights would go off when I turned the switch up for the head lights. The switch was not replaced in the restoration. Either set of lights works well but, not together. It has been suggested that I may have a grounding problem. Hope you can shed some light on a solution?
Thank you, Harold
Harold!

The wiring is incorrectly connected at the rear of the lighting switch, that's all.
When you look at the back of the lighting switch, with the "A" terminal at 12:00 then the IGN terminal will be in the middle. The lighting connections will be along the bottom. From left to right, there is a "T", blank, "H", and "L". The "T" is for "T"aillights. To this screw connect an in line fuse, then connect the four or five individual RED parking light wires to the other end of the fuse. Connect the BLUE wires to "H" for Headlamps. This BLUE wire then travels to the dipper switch where it is changed to main or dip. The "L" is for Driving lamps that come on with the parking lights but NOT the headlights. Now, I may have one of these positions confused, but you'll see when you get under the dash.

Hope this helps.
John
ElectricsVoltage ConverterI read on your published comments in NAMGBR that you recommend a 24 volt voltage converter to power a 12volt negative ground radio with 12volt positive ground cars. Can you elaborate a bit on the installation, and a possible source for this device?

Have you ever run across a good "hidden" fm antenna I could install inside my B?

Regards,

Dan
Dan!

You have several options: 1)Leave well enough alone and listen to the clatter of the valves and the whispers of the dynamo brushes -- after all, the sound of the engine should be music enough to your ears; 2) switch the vehicle to negative earth (very easy but for the tachometer which will cost $75 or so); 3) find a "voltage inverter" on eBay (I just sold an original Archer unit for about $20) and install that.

Of course, there are variations. You can fit a positive earth AM radio, as originally fitted to the MGB (probably Magnavox internals); you can simply set your boom box on the seat;.....

The voltage inverter doesn't really invert anything, except your wallet, and not for very long. Right now, your MGB has a neutral frame and a -12 power source; or, your MGB has a neutral power source and a 12+ frame -- however you want to look at it. Enter the voltage inverter. This unit has an output of 24+. Couple that with the 12+ chassis frame and the frame effectively becomes neutral and the 24+ wire effectively produces 12volts+.

Quite frankly, for my money, I'd switch over the negative earth and buy a recent, decent, radio with extras.

Let me know if I can be of more assistance!

Oh! Yes! The antenna! Mount it lengthwise, under the chassis, under the passenger seat. Support the end and middle in large rubber corks; those, in turn, held fast with zip ties. I know this works!

John

Electrics72B FusesHi Mr. Twist,
Can I use north american glass fuses when Lucas 17/35 are not available ?, and @ what rating ?.
Best regards,
Barry
Barry!

Use 10amp on the top two lighting circuits; use 15amps in the other two. You can boost that bottom one to 20 or 25 if the horn draws so much current that it wants to blow.

John
ElectricsPerTronix WiringJohn,

I have referred back to your tech tips many times while restoring a 77 MGB for my 16 year old son. Not sure if you reply to questions but thought I would give it a try.
The car in question came to me with a PerTronix Ignitor installed and during restoration I began to question the wiring of the Ignitor. The car is running and is driven daily to and from Soccer practice. The reason I questioned the wiring is because I noticed the Coil was getting very HOT. The Coil is now wired hot through the resisted wire and the ignitor is fed 12 volts. Should the ignitor be fed through the original resistor? I went to the PerTronix web site for answers and learned nothing.
Kevin
Kevin!

The coil gets hot because it is "on" too long or because the primary wiring has shorted -- unless it's wired wrong to start with.

There are two coils: one has 3.5 ohms internal resistance; the other 1.5 ohms. The first receives battery voltage; the second receives a reduced voltage (about 6-8 volts). The first is powered by a WHITE wire; the second by a pair of WHITE/GREEN.

In either case, I would power the Pertronix from a 12 volts source -- the fusebox is a good point.

Hope this helps at this late date.

John
ElectricsCigarette LighterIs the hole for my cigarette lighter (just to the left of the radio) "stock" or did one of the previous owners get happy with a drill? I haven't noticed that extra hole/lighter in other '62-'67 dashes, but then again I don't see that many. Moss catalog does not show the location, but does list a lighter as "Optional". Just curious.

Regards,

Tom
Tom,

The cigarette lighters (as well as radios and antennas) were dealer installed -- so the position of the hole, the quality of the cut, etc, all hinge on the young mechanic doing the work. I believe you'll find that a stock unit will fit the hole.

Hope this helps.

John
ElectricsElectrical ProblemDear John,

1. As most "Dear John" letters begin, I am having a problem with our relationship (me and my MGB). I have a '79 MGB. For months now, when I step on the break or use my turn directional signal I lose my Tach, gas gauge, temp gauge, radiator fan and break lights. Normally, they return within a few minutes and go out again at the next touch of my break pedal. This time, however, they have not returned. I have replaced the relay switch, cleaned the fuse connections, checked wire connections. I don't know if either of these are related to the problem but, my ignition light is always on (two years), and I recently replaced the ignition switch (several months ago). Some of the greatest technical minds in our club are scratching their heads on this one. Can you help? Thanks.


2. I squeezed the fuse tabs together, even put in new fuse, cleaned tabs and connectors but problem still exists. There are two relay switches on the wall. Should I replace them?

Bill
Bill!

1. 1979 MGB. Ignition switch to "ON" closes the ignition relay. Ignition relay closed energizes the third fuse (WHITE/BROWN front side and GREEN rear side). The problem lies in one of these three components. If the ignition switch had failed the car wouldn't run. Rule that out. When the ignition relay fails the cooling fans also fail to run. Jiggling this relay will cause a faulty one to switch on and off. So, with the ignition ON and the heater motor running, shake the relay. If the relay's operation is erratic, the heater blower motor will turn on and off. This relay appears the same size as a 35mm film canister and lies in FRONT of the fusebox.

But these are not your problems. Your problem is an erratic connection at the fusebox. Remove that third fuse, pinch the tabs together -- bend them together -- then fit a new fuse (20a). I think this will do it.

If your ignition light has been on for two years and the battery has not gone dead, then the alternator must be charging -- but perhaps not charging enough. Does the light remain bright or barely glow. Does the glow change when you operate the wipers, turns, brake lights, or heater motor?

Hope this helps -- get back in touch!


2. Replace relay IN FRONT of the fusebox, SPST Normally open. White and Black run the coil, Brown and White/Brown to the contacts. Good luck. let me know!

John
Electrics69 MGCAny idea if a GM altertnator would fit my car?Jay!

You can make anything work. You can make the case that all modern
alternators are better than that Lucas one. But remember, a new part here,
a new part there, and pretty soon you've got a Miata.

The Lucas alternator will recharge the battery just fine -- it's a
good unit that requires only the cleaning of electrical connections on an
occasional basis.

If you do wish to change over, then use a Saturn 100 amp alt which
will, with some fiddling, bolt right up.

John

ElectricsWiper MotorJohn

I have a 69 midget and my wipers won't park. They are either on low or
high but will not park, they just run on low. I unplug them when they are
not needed. I was thinking that it could be my wiper switch at the
steering column or my wiper motor. I can't find anything on this subject
in any of my books. Any suggestions would be appreciated?

Carl
Carl!

I think you are telling me that the wipers run all the time and will
not shut off. There is a switch on the underside of the wiper motor that is
pushed open by a little cam on the back side of the large gear in the wiper
motor gearbox. On your car, a Circlip on the shaft of that gear has fallen
off. Now the gear rides too high in the gearbox to operate the switch.

To repair this problem, loosen the gland nut (3/4") from the wiper
rack to the wiper motor. Remove the wiper motor from the inner wheel arch.
Remove the cover of the wiper motor gearcase. Push down on the white
plastic gear while you fit a new Circlip onto the gearshaft (at the bottom
of the gearcase),.

Hope this helps.

John
ElectricsWiring HarnessesJohn
Question about my '69 MGB/GT:

Do you have a recommendation for wiring harness suppliers? My dash
harness melted all the way down to the starter. I have to rewire. Which
supplier is best in your experience?

By the way, the alternator that you rebuilt is (was) charging fine, and
the wires to it are not burned. It is probably still OK.

Fred
Fred!

Our experience has been wonderful with British Wiring in Olympia Fields, Illinois. www.britishwiring.com Contact Leslie -- she'll help you
out!

John
Electrics79BJohn
I have a 1979 MGB
I tried to charge up my car and when I started the other car the
alternaror started to get very hot in the MGB and if I keep the car
charging I think it would have started a fire. When I put the cables
on
the other car the hot cablle makes a spark which it shouldn`t do it
never did this before I don`t try to charge the the MGB anymore.
What should I look for to fix this problem?
JIM

Jim!

It sounds to me like you got the positve and negative cables
mixed
up. You know, the battery cables on the car, when original, were both
black. But, over the years it is not uncommon for us to see replacement
ground cables. These, sometimes are RED. So, it is not unusual for us
to
see a RED cable for negative and a BLACK cable for positive -- exactly
opposite of what you would expect. I'll be that's what's happened. Do
let
me know how you solved it.

John
ElectricsLucas Battery CapsJohn; I have acquired a set of dry NOS Lucas 6 volt batteries, these are black cased and not current production red-mid 70's I am guessing. The terminals are drilled to use Lucas Helment head connectors. They are perfect EXCEPT one is missing the red bar cap that covers all three cell ports. Do you think that you might come up with a couple of these in used albeit nice condition so as to have a spare and make this set of batteries functional? The car is rolling along-I just found an NOS SHELLY jack for it while rummaging through a dealer buyout of Triumph parts. My Minilites are being painted to match the Works Old EnglishWhite hardtop and all of the major projects are out of the shop so the car can soon go on a rotisserie. The welding is pretty much done with the exception of the battery boxes. The original owner had cut these out and fitted a 12V in the boot on the passenger side to distribute weight better when he autocrossed the car. I will convert back to the original set up but retain the hand-made Koni conversion as that is easily retrofitted to Armstrongs.
Tony
Tony!
I'll bet that something comes up on eBay. I've printed out your msg and if I have something at the shop I'll let you know.
How can you leave those Koni shocks on a car you're trying to make so original?
John

ElectricsBrake Lights Will Not Shut OffJohn:
I have a MG TD 1952 that the rear brake light are now staying on all the time. I have tried to wiggle the brake pedal with no success. Can you tell me where to look to solve the problem?
Wayne

Wayne!

You have one of three problems: crossed wiring (do you have a turn signal box); a faulty brake light switch (staying closed); or no brake pedal freeplay (allowing pressure to remain in the brakes).

First -- ensure you have 1/2" of pedal freeplay. If you're running real fluid you should be OK. If you're running silicone fluid then there's a problem INSIDE the master cylinder (write back and I'll go through the procedure to reposition the piston).

Disconnect the brake light switch. If the switch is the problem then dropping one wire will cause the lights to cease illuminating.

Hope this little bit helps!

John
ElectricsMGC Charging SystemWent to fire up the 1968 MGC last week..reconnected the battery ground...tried to fire it up....it was dead.

I disconnected the alternator and put the charger on it.

Yes...Negative to negative and positive to positive.

Battery appeared to re-charge on trickle...

Went to reconnect alternator and ...SPARK!

"This ain't right, I say!"

Pulled the one wire off of the alternator that I had connected (brown).

Then...

I disconnected battery at ground (negative terminal).

Reconnected alternator.

Went to reconnect ground....SPARK at battery terminal.

"This ain't right, I say!"

Any clue as to what's going on here?

OK...The saga continues....

I swapped out the battery just in case it was a short in the battery itself.

I connected the alternator back up (black wire on top, brown beneath it) and reconnected the battery.

It SPARKED at the negative terminal.

For grins, (I would say tickles and grins, but I didn't want to get shocked), I disconnected the alternator and reconnected the ground to the battery. NO SPARK.

I verified that the ignition is indeed switched OFF.

I have a feeling that the alternator, or maybe the alternator control box, is at fault.

In this model of MG, what does the Alternator Control Box do as a function? Could the fault lie here? (My '69 MGC does NOT have this feature.)

Also noticed the one time I did get the C started (a few weeks ago), that the tach would jump to 7000 rmp or so until the car started, then show normal rpm.

The 1968 MGC (and MGB) have an external voltage regulator. By 1969 it was incorporated into the alternator itself.

There is, sometimes, a tiny spark when connecting the alternator, especially on the later style (about 1977-), but there should not be a large spark -- certainly.

There must be some fault within the alternator. You can have it tested or rebuilt (or both) down there, or you can send it up here and I'll run right through it.

There are two large spade terminals on your alternator. The outermost spade is the output, the innermost is the earth. It is nearly impossible to reverse the connection -- but look at the wires at the alternator just for fun.

I doubt there is anything in the control box which would give these symptoms. That doesn't mean it's good -- but there is not a path for the current to take through this control box to give a spark like you're getting at the battery.

John
ElectricsPositive Ground, TCJohn:

My TC is a positive ground system. is there a quick reference on how to
change to negative? is there a reason not to?

Thanks much.


Bill

Bill!

The car cares not a hoot whether it's positive or negative earth. Positive earth was the convention at the time. In 1968 the MG changed to negative earth. All the components work the same except for the ammeter (which, not reversed, will read backwards) and the coil (which, not reversed, will cause the spark to jump from the "L" to the center electrode with no ill effects whatsoever). So why change? Only the modern electrical equipment -- radios, CDs, scanners, etc.

To change, reverse the battery. Polarize the dynamo -- jump between A and F on the control box, twice -- spark, spark -- and it's all done. Reverse the ammeter connections (unless the wiring is especially crusty); reverse the low tension leads on the coil; and that's about all -- UNLESS -- the fuel pump is a polarized model -- either the Halls effect style or wrapped in RED tape indicating a diode style. This is more complicated now -- write back if you have a more modern, polarized pump!



John
ElectricsMGA WiringJohn.

Someone told me that the MGA wiring is not fused throughout and there
are wires that might burn up. Do you add a fuse and where should it be
put.

Thanks.

Pete
Pete!

There are several "dangerous" unfused circuits: Ignition, parking lights, and headlights. The only circuit I've ever seen burned is the parking light (red) circuit. Here's how to fuse it:

Get an in line fuse holder. Fit one end into the headlamp switch at S1 -- where the RED wires are right now. Then, butt connect the RED wires and the other end of the fuse holder. DONE! Now the parking light circuit is fused -- use about a 10amp fuse here.


John
ElectricsIgnition RelayRecently a ground wire shorted out going to the ignition relay. I replaced the wire andattempted to start the engine. No Luck ... but the fuel pump continues to run till I pull the whitewire off of the relay. Do you think that the relay could be bad or maby another problem in the wire harness?

Thanks in Advance
Roger

Roger!

It seems that you've got the wiring to the ignition relay wrong and the BROWN wire is energizing the WHITE circuit. If you are using a LUCAS SRB 402 relay, then the BROWN wire goes to the copper spade which is 90 degrees from the other three. The opposite spade receives the WHITE/BROWN. The other two receive the WHITE and the BLACK in no particular order.

If you are using a different relay, the coil receives the WHITE and BLACK and the points (normally open) received the BROWN and WHITE/BROWN.

More questions/ problems? Call me!

John
ElectricsDiodeWhere might I find a diode to replace the one from the brake warning light?
Thanks again
Skip
Skip!

There might be something available through NAPA, but Radio Shack has all kinds of diodes. The rating seems pretty low -- maybe 16 volts (as the alternator is 14 v max) and maybe 3 watts (to power the ignition warning light).

I usually just take the one out of the wiring and leave it on the alternator, not replacing the one under the dash.

John
ElectricsHeadlights FluctuateDear John,
I have noticed that the headlights fluctuate in brightness while the car is idleing. The alternator belt is snug and the car idles reasonably smooth. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Anthony

Anthony

This situation is almost always caused by a problem with the voltage regulator in the alternator. You could buy another alternator -- you could change the regulator in the alternator -- but first:

Clean the battery clamps -- don't just look at them and call them clean.
Ensure that the battery is full -- top it off with distilled (de-ionized) water if necessary
Ensure the earth strap is tight to the frame in the battery box.
Remove all the BROWN wires from the starter solenoid, tighten the inner nut on the solenoid stud, clean all the wires, ensure their integrity (broken strands?), then refit.

If the problem still persists, then go for the regulator!

Hope this helps.

John
ElectricsAlternator InformationHi there,


I have a 1952 Bedford truck fitted with 12V Lucas equipment. The motor is currently being rebuilt and I am looking for replacement parts to suit the generator. I have listed the Lucas part No. below and I would like to know if you have a NOS dynamo/generator or even parts to suit. If you have anything second hand, that might also be useful. I would prefer a NOS generator or if not available, one that is reconditioned. The details for the generator are listed below;



Lucas Dynamo/Generator 12V



Lucas Model No. – C39PV-2



Lucas Type – L-O



Lucas Ordering No. – 22258B



The numbers stamped on the casing of the generator appear as follows;



LUCAS



MADE IN ENGLAND



22258B I151



C39PV2 LO 12V



I have managed to purchase a NOS armature to suit the generator, but the keyway is narrower than that on the original armature. I have filed down the woodruff key, but I‘m not too keen on utilising this method.



The part No. of the NOS armature I have bought is 227987AX. Is it possible for you to check if this is the right armature for this generator?



If you can assist me in any way,



Thanks,



Sam.

Sam!

I have printed out your letter tonight and will see if I can come up with any information to help you out. We have many starter/alternator shops that still provide good service for old generators, including Lucas. There must be similar shops in Australia. If it is just the armature that is causing a problem, I'm sure you could have yours rewound -- or -- take the newer armature to a machine shop with your pulley and ask them to deepen/widen the Woodruff key cut.

Hope this helps a little!

John
ElectricsBrake Warning Light SwitchAdvice on this one..the brake light keeps coming on...I've cleaned the brake master cylinder switch underneath it and the connecting plug three times. It appears some fluid somehow is leaking into it. Is there a repair kit or something else I can do?

Keith
Keith!

The brake warning light switch on your 1979 MGB is integral with the master cylinder. This shuttle valve earths a switch if there is a difference in pressure between the front and rear brake hydraulic circuits. If the switch is getting damp or dripping with brake fluid, then the master cylinder needs a rebuild. Hope this helps

John
ElectricsAlternator ConversionJohn:
I have an August, 1966 MGB (GHN3L 98066) on which I have just completed a major driveline rebuild. In the process, I installed an alternator conversion purchased from one of the major suppliers, with a "2-wire" alternator which retains the original RB340 regulator.

The car was already converted to negative ground. The alternator conversion calls for the brown/yellow "D" lead on the regulator to be spliced into one of the "B" leads (either to the ignition switch or the fuse box) and the "F" lead to be relocated to the "D" terminal. The alternator installation and the wiring conversion have been done according to instructions, checked and re-checked with no problems apparent.

The situation is this:
1) When the key is turned on, the warning light glows (no problem).
2) When the motor is started, the warning light goes out (no problem).
3) When the motor is shut off (and the key is off), the warning light glows (PROBLEM).

I pulled the regulator cover and noted that the cut-out is remaining closed when the key is turned off, so I disconnected the battery to open the cut-out. When running, the cut-out is closing at approximately 12.8-13 volts (no load), which as I recall is in the acceptable range.

I have checked and re-checked the conversion wiring, cleaned up all of the old regulator connections, and directly grounded the regulator. As the regulator I was using had been in service with the old generator for many years, I suspected a cut-out problem and substituted a new regulator I've been keeping as a spare, but the same problem occurred. I can't help but think that I'm missing something really obvious, but the brain is fading rapidly. Any suggestions??

Glenn

Glenn,

To keep the system working correctly, you really have to gut the old RB340 to keep the current from getting to earth. I just did one -- but you can do it too. Cut out the swamping resistors; cut out the F to D resistor (for the voltage regulator); Cut the points so there is NO WAY that any current can pass between B F or D and earth.

Connect the heavy BROWN/GREEN wire to the alternator output; connect the light BROWN/YELLOW to the alternator indicator lead, and you should be all set to go.

Hope this helps!

John
ElectricsFusebox, LEJohn,

I have the same electrical problem everybody else that signs on to your site has. I removed the fuse box and cleaned it. Checked the power on the fuses. Only the bottom two have power. The second fuse which controls tach, blinkers, etc is sporadic, but got everything going except for one tail light.

My radiator fans weren't working I touched the two ends together and they went on, so I replaced the sensor. They worked.

While I'm doing all of this, I cleaned the two pop in fuses that hang under the fuse box. Now I don't get any power to the fan sensor. I have a concern about the top two fuse, but I can't drive the car without the overheat fans working. Please Help me.

Gene
Gene!

Let's take this from the top down:

#1 fuse runs one side or one diagonal on the parking lights / side markers / licence lights
#2 fuse runs the opposite side or opposite diagonal
#3 fuse runs everything that works when the key is on -- gauges, turns, brake and reverse lights, wipers, heater motor, those kinds of things
#4 fuse runs the components that work with the key on or off -- the horn, the bright light flashers, the cigarette lighter, the trunk and interior lights.

The fusebox does NOT control the hazards, the anti run-on valve, the headlights, the fuel pump, the coil, the overdrive, NOR does it control the cooling fans.

The two in-line, pop-in fuses are the hazards and the anti run-on valve. The headlights are not fused -- neither is the fuel pump, the coil, the overdrive (although it should be and can be). The cooling fans are fused through a circuit breaker (the size of a rectangular turn signal flasher box), located just to the front and lower than the fusebox.

The connections for the fusebox are:

#1 FRONT: Top or second spade receives a RED/GREEN
#2 FRONT: See above
#3 FRONT: Receives WHITE/BROWN wires from the ignition relay
#4 FRONT: Receives a BROWN (always hot, unfused) wire from the starter motor solenoid HOT stud.

#1 REAR Pair of Reds
#2 REAR Pair of Reds
#3 REAR Three or four GREENS on two spade terminals
#4 REAR Pair or three PURPLES on two spade terminals.

The front side of the fusebox is the UNFUSED side; the rear is the FUSED side.
The top front two fuses have a bridged connection (look on the underside of the fusebox).

The cooling fan circuit runs from the ignition relay to the front side of the #3 fuse (or directly) to the circuit breaker. From the circuit breaker the heavy green runs to the thermostatic sensor. From the thermostatic sensor to the motor is GREEN/BLACK to the motor. From the motor to earth is BLACK.

WARNING: Approaching any electrical malfunction without a test light and without the wiring diagram for YOUR MGB is a certain route to madness!

Hope some of this helps.

John
ElectricsIgnition LightJohn,
I have a 1978 MBG roadster and at low idle the ignition light comes on. I just replaced my alternator and the light still seems to flicker on at low idle, being below 1000 rpm.
I had the old alternator checked and it was only putting out about 14 amps that is why I replaced it. Am I missing something I should be replacing, as I don't understand why the light is still coming on.
Please let me know
Thanks
Scott
Scott!

The alternator light usually remains on until you exceed 800 - 1000 rpm at which time it extinguishes. It should not flicker.

Here are some things to check: Battery posts; starter connexion; and alternator connexions.

Remove the clamps from the battery, clean the posts and clamps, and refit. Also, Remove the earth strap from the chassis, clean it, and refit it.

Remove the heavy BROWN wires from the starter solenoid. Tighten the nut at the solenoid, then refit the BROWN wires along with the heavy, black cable from the battery.

Lastly, work with the alternator plug so that the female spade connectors do, in fact, grip the male spades in the back of the unit tightly.

Your alternator should produce 30-40 amps -- if it's spinning quickly enough and if there is a heavy load on it. The ignition warning light is usually the only indicator you need to determine if the unit is working well. The alternator produces 14v when the engine is running over about 1000 rpm.

Hope this helps.

John
ElectricsErratic ElectricalMr. Twist,
1975 MGB
I am having troubles with my turn signals, flashers, and alternator indicator light.
Recently the alternator light did not totally go out after starting my car. It would glow and then dim as the RPMs increased, then glow brighter as the RPMs lowered. Is this a bad alternator or a dying battery? (FYI The battery is very close to its life expectancy!) Nothing like this has every happened in the 23 years I've owned the car. Also, the alternator is relatively new with only eight years and 8000 miles on it. It is a Bosch from Moss.
Then last night the turn signals would not blink - just steady on.
Next, the passenger's running lights and turn signals would not come on at all, then they would, then they wouldn't...
With the engine running and all lights off, the headlights would flash on and off like emergency lights...
Then the emergency lights would only work on driver's side...
Or not at all...
Or sometime they worked perfectly...
All fuses appear good.
Flasher units are "clicking" so I assume they are working.
Where should I begin my investigation?
Thanks,
John
John!

I have some things here for you to try. Let me know what has helped.

Clean the battery posts and cables to ensure a good connection. Pull the plug from the alternator (probably a Lucas alternator in a Bosch box), squeeze the terminals in the plug, and then refit.

Remove the fusebox, clean it in a sandblast cabinet or in vinegar or ammonia until it comes bright. Reinstall (make certain the bridged connection is at the top, forward side).

Most of your problems should be solved.

If the ignition warning light continues to glow, then the alternator is faulty.

Let me know!

John
ElectricsBattery DrainingGood Morning John

I recently noted a strong odor of rotten eggs coming from my 1975 MGB. This ultimately was found to be a bad alternator which cooked the battery.

Both replaced.

Now I have a problem with the new battery which has checked out good, completely discharging in about 2 hours when sitting in the garage. So, not being a mechanic I tried a couple things to see where the possible electricity is going. I pulled the fuses, still discharges, alternator checks ok. Before going any further, any ideas where to start?



Thanks

Tim
Tim,

Arm yourself with a 12 volt test light. Do not use a meter.

Remove the negative battery terminal and fit the test light between the battery post and the battery clamp. Now, any current coming out of the battery will illuminate the bulb.

Pull the bottom fuse, pull the plug from the back of the alternator, disconnect the anti run-on valve. If this doesn't extinguish the light, then there is a short -- VERY uncommon -- so you'll have to call me during tech time. The most common draw is the trunk light, but that takes a whole day to discharge a battery. It is not uncommon to get a faulty alternator. Your ignition light should illuminate when you turn the key to ON, and extinguish when the engine exceeds 800-1000 rpm.

Hope this helps.

John
ElectricsSeatbelt Buzzer, Engine Shuts OffI HAVE TWO BASIC PRBLEMS

I purchased a 1974 1/2 MGBGT ALL ORIGINAL AND IT WAS NOT RUNNING TOO WELL BUT WAS RUNNING. I DECIEDED AFTER TRYING TO TUNE IT THAT I WOULD HAVE A VALVE JOB DONE. OF COURSE I TOOK OFF ALL THE EMISSION CONTROLS IN THE PROCESS AND SINCE ALL THE ORIGINAL HOSES WERE CRACKED AND SPLIT I DECIDED TO LEAVE THEM OFF FOR THE TIME BEING. I LEFT THE ANTI RUNON VALVE ON HOWERVER

I GOT MY HEAD BACK AND INSTALLED IT AND ADJUSTED THE VALVE TAPPET CLEARANCE AND PUT THE SU HIF4 CARBS BACK ON.

I STARTED THE ENGINE AND AFTER ABOUT 30 SECONDS IT SHUTS OFF AND IT SEEMS TO BE FOR LACK OF FUEL BUT IVE TRIED EVERYTHING I CAN AND IT STILL SHUTS OFF MAYBE YOU HAVE THE ANSWER

PROBLEM NUMBER TWO IS THE WARNING HORN GOES OF UNDER THE DASH I THINK IT MAY BE THE SEATBELT ALARM . HOW DO I JUMPER THIS OUT.
GIL
Gil,

The seat belt warning buzzer is the easier of these two problems. Remove the column covers, and pull the purplish wire from the exposed spade terminal on the side or bottom of the key switch. Now the buzzer will be silent.

The smog system is composed of the air pump, the injector rail, and the gulp valve. Block the injector holes with 7/16-20 Allen set screws -- it looks good like that. Remove the gulp valve and bracket. Remove the 90 degree fitting in the center of the intake manifold -- tap that 1/4" NPT and fit an Allen pipe plug -- then it looks finished and won't leak air.

The ELC or Evaporative Loss Control system is helpful to keep in place. I believe this may also be the source of your problems. Let's use the charcoal canister as the starting point. There are three lines at the top of the canister. One loops to a steel line that goes back to the gas tank. Make sure the line is free into the tank -- blow through it and you should feel air/fuel escaping through the filler neck. One runs over to the HIF carbs, to the float bowls. Make sure that line is clear. One fits to the valve cover. Make sure that line is not cracked.

During engine operation, fresh air enters the tube below the anti run-on valve, travels through that valve and into the bottom of the canister. It is drawn out of the canister and into the engine, then out of the engine and into the carburetters (from the front tappet inspection cover hose). In this way, the charcoal within the canister is continually being washed with fresh air and the unburned hydrocarbons (gasoline) is purged from the charcoal. If the canister plugs up then the engine places a vacuum in the gasoline tank and in the float bowls and the car will quit running. That's just what the anti run-on valve does when you turn the key off.

The anti run-on valve is HOT when the key is off and is grounded only when there's oil pressure -- that's in those two to ten seconds after you turn the car off. So the valve only works for a couple of seconds. You can hear is CLICK off after you've turned the key off and the engine quits running. When the valve operates, it blocks the free flow of air and the canister begins to evacuate. Further, by the valve's operation, manifold vacuum is routed to the canister which creates a tremendous depression. That vacuum is transferred over to the carbs, on top of the gasoline in the float bowl. Now the vacuum created inside the carb at the jet is not enough to draw gasoline from the float bowl and the engine stops dead.

I suspect this may be occurring to your car right now -- not properly -- but from incorrectly connected hoses or a plugged canister.

Hope this helps!

John
ElectricsBlowing the Fuse QuestionHello John,


I enjoy your Youtube videos - they are the best. My problem is that my newly bought 76 MGB keeps blowing the 3rd fuse. It started when I turned on the lights and used the turn signals. The turn signals stopped working along with the tach, gas gauge and temp gauge. I replaced the turn signal switch. The fuse still blows and the shop where I have says that about 40 amps are going thru it. Any ideas to where to look?


Thanks for your help as I know you are a very busy shopowner.


Frank
Frank,

The most common cause for an excessive draw on the 3rd fuse is that
the wire which should be attached to the manifold heater (between the carb
and the intake manifold) has been left loose and it's touching ground. It's
a heavy green wire, sheathed for some of its length in a black plastic
covering.

John
ElectricsReplacing Two 6Volts with One 12Volt BatteryHi John,

Quick question. I just purchased a 62 MKII MGA that has been off the road
for about 10 years. I don't know if the motor will even turn, but I do
know the batteries are dead. It still has 2 6 volts installed. My
question is simply: Is there any reason to put 2 sixes back in it, or is
it a no brainer to go ahead and put a good 12 volt in it? If so, is there
anything else I need to do with the electrical system while I'm at it?

Thanks,

Greg

Greg,

I used to be a member of the positive earth club! I had twin sixes
in my 1962 MGA 1600 Mark II Deluxe. I had helmet clamps on the cables.
Then I wanted to fit an electronic ignition......

One of my six volts was faulty so I joined the dark side. Besides,
those 17HF batteries from Interstate are very difficult to get now and
they're very expensive.

A single group 26 battery, supported on a piece of plywood about 7
1/4 by 7 1/4
will keep the bottom of the battery from chafing against the edge of battery
box.

There is no inherent advantage between positive or negative earth.
Negative earth is "modern" and will allow you to use modern electronic
devices without the fear of a dead short.

Place the battery on the passenger side and shorten up the earth
cable to fit on that side also.

Hope this helps!

John
ElectricsDamaged BatteriesMr. Twist,


I am writing to inquire about a possible electrical problem I am experiencing with the MGA your company worked on a couple of years ago. Otto Green told me to ask you if you thought there could be a problem with the alternator or coil that could be damaging the battery in the car. I have replaced two batteries, 1 each year of ownership. If you believe the alternator could be the problem, could you please tell me where I can get an alternator for a 1958 MGA? I believe you told me before that you sold coils. If that is incorrect, could you please also tell me where to purchase one?



Thanks,

Steve
Steve,


The MGA is fitted with a generator and control box. The generator only does what the control box, or regulator, tells it to do. If the battery is overcharging, boiling out the electrolyte, and forcing you to purchase a new battery, then changing the control box might be in order.

Give me a call if you're still working with this problem.

John
ElectricsPuchasing A Starter MotorJohn,

Do you sell a starter motor for a 1973 spitfire, or can you recommend someone you trust who does?

Thank You

Peter
Peter,

That starter motor is very common -- it's the M35G unit used on T series MGs, MGAs, Midgets and Sprites, as well as the Spitfires and GT6 models. You should be able to purchase a rebuilt unit from your local auto supplier for around $100.

John
ElectricsMGB Electrical Short?When I was driving 'B' around at night with lights on, everything shut down, engine, lights, etc. It would shut down for 5 secs, then come back on, then shot off again and come back on. I made it home and parked it. I have changed the engine to body ground wire and wonder what you thought of the 'complete' shut down' problem. Thanks and any help would be appreciated



If everything winked out, then there must have been a disconnect at the battery or at the starter motor solenoid (where all the BROWN wires connect to the main battery power cable). You can eliminate this problem by going just a bit further than you did -- at least remove, clean, and replace the connection at the positive side of the battery. And, then, go to the starter motor, remove all the BROWN wires, tighten up the stud, then refit all the BROWN wires. One more thing -- there is a white rectangular connector on the later MGBs, just to the rear of the fusebox, into which four BROWN wires are fitted. Pull those wires out, crimp the ends with pliers, and refit them.

Somewhere in all of this you will have fixed your faulty connection.
ElectricsMGA Charging ProblemSo as to not waste your time, I'll get right to the point:
My MGA 1500's charging light came on yesterday. I spent some time
(probably not enough) viewing some of your online videos. In my
'diagnosis' phase, I connected the field terminal on the generator direct
to the battery for a short time, and checked to see if the charging light
was extinguished (it wasn't)

Then I monkeyed some with the regulator, including pushing on the two
contacts once or twice (this was BEFORE I read your admonishment not to do
this)

Finally I followed your guidance to jumper the Dynamo and Field terminals
together, and take a voltage reading to ground.. Nothing.. then your
second advice to momentarily touch those connections together and look for
a spark... again nothing.

So, removed the generator, and found in both brushes severely worn, one
had broken up in its holder. Aha... I carefully replaced with new brushes
I had on hand, and reassembled, using a bit of Dielectric grease on the
brush screw terminals. After assembly, I spun it by hand, and visually
checked that the brushes were seating on the commutator.

Alas, after reinstalling the generator, cleaning the contacts on the
control box, resetting the regulator contacts to .015, and polarizing
twice, I'm still getting no voltage output from the generator, using the
two methods described above.

1) Do you think I may have damaged the windings in my ham-handed
checkout?

2) I'm not averse to just springing for a new generator, but first
wondering if you have any other possible actions I could take to revive
it? (At just a bit over $100, it just doesn't seem worth it to try my
luck again with one of the auto electric rebuild shops around here)

3) If a new generator seems to be the advice, will I encounter any
difficulties removing the pulley from the old?

4) Although my car is in superb physical condition, I am finding that
basic preventative maintenance tasks seem to have been deferred by the
P.O. Based on my generator brush discovery, should I just go ahead and
yank the starter and check those brushes, or assume that the intermittent
starter usage might result in longer lived brushes?
There are four components in the charging system: generator,
control box (regulator), wiring, and battery. Polarize your rebuilt
generator and test it on the car by jumping between the D and F. You should
get a big flash when the engine is doing anything above an idle. If you
don't, then perhaps the brushes have hung up somehow and are not following
the commutator, or perhaps something has grounded. Work with the generator
until you can do no more yourself. You should be able to have it rebuilt by
some local shop for under $100. Once that's working, then you can, by
elimination, discover if the control box is working OK.
ElectricsRadio Static Here's a strange one, I think. I just put a new radio in my '79 MGB.
FM is fine, but there's a bit of popping static on AM that seems to
increase with speed. I remember years ago it had something to do with
the ignition system, but can't remember the fix. The mystery - it goes
away upon acceleration, but as soon as I let of the gas, it comes
back. What can I do about it?
Since the static follows the speed of the engine, then the source is
either the ignition system or the alternator. The common source is the
ignition system. You can change to resistance plugs (Champion RN9YC or
#415) if you have a non-resistor plug in there now. You can change the
wires and/or cap and rotor. I don't have any tricks for you to follow to
find the problem -- so it's only by substitution that you can achieve a zzzz
free am reception. Let me know what you found.
ElectricsTD GeneratorI have a few questions about the oiler on an MG TD generator.
I ordered the felt from a parts supplier, and it's longer than the oiler - so, how much of it should I use?
The operation manual for the TD says to unscrew the lubricator, take out the spring and the felt, fill the tube with grease and reinstall it. That sounds like the grease would be above the felt, in the top end of the oiler when it's installed. Is that correct? It would seem more logical to put the grease in the opening in the generator, where the lubricator screws on.
What grease would you recommend?
The bushing at the rear of the armature is an oil impregnated bushing. Oil applied on the outside of the bearing will seep through and oil the contact area between the steel in the armature and the bronze on the inside of the bearing. So, I would stuff that wick through the spring and then oil it up. Then, place a slug of grease between the bushing and the oiler and screw it in. We use NGLI #2 lithium grease for nearly every application on the car.
ElectricsAH Negative Ground Conversion I have a1963 AH 3000 positive ground. On e-bay there is an ad for a fuel pump and tack,positive ground,it says replace these two items and rewire the battery and all will work? Is this true
Converting to negative ground is only necessary if you're going to fit a modern radio into the car.

The steps are relatively easy:

Reverse the battery
Polarize the generator (use a jumper wire and flash twice between A and F on the control box)
ENSURE that you have a negative earth fuel pump -- the original fuel pumps were not polarized, but the new and improved ones have diodes. If you fit a positive earth pump to a negative earth car it can catch on fire!
Convert the tachometer -- this is a step by step process which requires calibration at the end, but you can do it at home. If you want to send it out, we'll do it for $50 -- you can call Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck NY to get their rebuild price.
Reverse the ignition coil leads. - to the coil, + to the white power wire; or SW to the coil and CB to the power wire.
ElectricsTD FusesMy 53 MG TD has a five lug regulator and a separate fuse block for two fuses. Are both fuses to be rated at 35 amps or a combination of 35 and 50 amps? One fuse, the one with the most wires, is the WHITE/GREEN fuse (stop lights,turn signals, fuel light, wiper motor). That one is a 20 amp (Lucas says 17 with a 35 amp surge).

The other fuse, the one with two or three wires, is the horn. The horn draws more current than anything else in the car -- it's not even wired through the ammeter. That one will also work OK with a 20 amp (usually), but better to use a 30 -- again, Lucas has a "surge" protection of about 50.

It's always best to use the lowest amperage that will work -- but a dead short, in all but the turn signal circuit, will snap even a 50 amp fuse.

Speaking of the turn circuit -- be sure to fuse that RED circuit coming from the back of the lighting switch. Pull all the RED wires from the "T" terminal. Fit one end of an in-line fuse into that slot on the switch, and connect the other end of the fuse holder to the five or so RED wires. Use a ten amp fuse here.
ElectricsBallast Resistor Wiring / Head Work EstimateI was out today to pick my B after it had an ignition failure this past weekend. I had a spare coil, which I felt was not the problem but I changed it anyway. I also thought it could have been the ignition switch, the relay, or even the ballast resistor. I wish I had replaced the relay I gave away a couple of summers ago to someone in trouble! Now that I am back on the road I have a few questions. Is the ballast resistor connection just to the right of the ignition coil? I see a green wire to the right and a white and white with brown coming out the other side. I know the green is the ignition circuit. The other question involves some engine work that I am contemplating in the future. The bottom of the engine seems to be solid with good oil pressure and really no problems with burning oil. But after 76,000 I am wondering about the condition of the cam shaft and the overall condition of the cylinder head. I do notice a little slop between the valves and rockers the last time I was checking the valve gap. From the outside the head looks good, but as far as the underside who knows. I have also heard that the later cams tended to be a softer alloy and that sometime after 60,000 miles they began to show significant wear. If my head was still in good shape, what would it cost in time and labor to change out the valve assembly, seats, guides, polish it up to increase the flow of gasses in and out, and to replace the cam and associated lifters and push rods? I know this is an estimate, and I am basing it on your experience. If my head had problems, what does a replacement run?
There is a ballast resistor within the wiring loom itself. This pinkish wire connects to the WHITE or the WHITE/BROWN circuit on the outside of the wiring loom, just below the fusebox . This resistance wire then travels to the left front of the car where it exits the loom, is connected to a WHITE/GREEN wire which then runs all the way back to the ignition coil. This delivers 6-8 volts to the ignition coil during operation. WHY?

The gov't wants to eliminate unburned hydrocarbons. They want the car to start quickly, stop quickly, accelerate slowly and decelerate slowly -- all to lessen the quantity of unburned hydrocarbons spewed into the air.

At start up you need a really good, hot, intense spark. In a "normal" car, the 12 volt coil delivers an 18,000 volt spark. But, when the starter motor is running, the voltage in the car is depressed to about 10 volts, so the resulting spark voltage is less than normal. Again, you want the hottest spark at startup. So, the engineers designed the coil to run on 6-8 volts -- except at startup. When you turn the key to START, the starter solenoid sends battery voltage (about 10 volts) to the coil through the second WHITE/GREEN wire. Now the coil is receiving MORE voltage than usual and producing a spark which is much hotter than usual -- but just at startup.

The rear side of the coil has a pair of WHITE/BLACK wires -- one from the distributor switching, one to the tachometer.

Just changing the cam in your engine, in place, would be about $1200. Changing the bearings and oil pump would be, in place, about $600. Removing the cylinder head, getting it upgraded, and replacing it would be about $1200. Getting the head ported and polished is another $350 on top of that. If we were to do all these jobs at the same time, there would be come savings, certainly. Give me a call or stop out and Lisa or I can go over these jobs with you.
Electrics1973 Spitfire Starter MotorDo you sell a starter motor for a 1973 spitfire, or can you recommend someone you trust who does? That starter motor is very common -- it's the M35G unit used on T series MGs, MGAs, Midgets and Sprites, as well as the Spitfires and GT6 models. You should be able to purchase a rebuilt unit from your local auto supplier for around $100.
ElectricsFuel Pump Wiring
ElectricsMGB Battery ChargingMy '77 B (you worked on this car when I was on the
faculty at University of Michigan) was totaled this summer in
a parking lot, I replaced it with a '75 B, and I am getting to
know a new car...one quirk is that the polarity in the electrical
system is reversed (discovered when I replaced the battery), when
the alternator went out, my local guy said rewired the car to get
polarity back to normal, but when I attached my trickle charger this
winter, no go--lead me to check and the battery was still hooked up
neg-pos...pos-neg...I called the guy, he is not concerned...should I
be? (I reversed wires on charger to try to charge up...power is out right
now so don't know outcome yet...) Thanks
Your MGB is negative earth, negative ground. This is common with
all modern vehicles. Sometimes the ground cable has been replaced with a
red cable, making ground red and power black -- just opposite of what you
would expect -- but the important thing is that the battery is hooked up
with the negative (-) terminal connected to ground. If you hook it up
backwards, the alternator will cook -- sometimes even catch on fire!

When you connect your trickle charger, the easiest way to do it is
to go under the bonnet. Connect the black lead from the charger to a bolt
or stud on the engine. Connect the red lead to the clips that hold the
bottom fuse in the fuse box. You should see a little spark if the charger
is plugged in and you make the second connection with the alligator clips.

This is a perfectly acceptable method of charging your car and will
not over tax the wiring -- and it's easier than trying to gain access to the
battery.
ElectricsBenefits of Converting to Negative GroundLast year I purchased a beautiful older restoration of an OEW 1967 MGB/GT Special with overdrive which is both cosmetically and mechanically close to original specs. The car has the original positive ground system with twin 6 volt batterys and thev original dynamo. This year I plan to do some upgrades to make the car more reliable. These include putting in a S U electronic fuel pump, a petronix electronic ignition and put in a high torque starter. The question is will the original electrical system handle these changes or do I need a twelve volt battery and a negative earth system? The car does not have a radio and everthing on the car is as original except I put in halogen lights. The car is not a trailer queen and I expect to drive it on nice days putting on about 1500 miles per year. The car has been trouble free so far and I want to keep it that way.

After over 30 years of owning my 1962 MGA 1600 Mark Ii Deluxe, I finally converted it to negative earth and a single twelve volt. Why? One of the sixes was bad -- and new ones are harder to come by -- plus, they're made with 1950's technology and the new batteries are much, much better. I wanted to change to Pertonix and didn't want to deal with the positive earth system. So, are you geeked on originality or is it of little matter?

There is no inherent advantage of negative earth over positive earth. The group 26 twelve volt sits in the passenger battery compartment just fine. If you ever wanted to add something modern (a radio, for example), or if someone besdies you was driving the car and needed a jump, the negative earth is so much more common.

The only disadvantage to the high torque starters is that the power lug sits very close to the distributor, so pay attention to that.
ElectricsPolarizing / Generator Testing Restoring a 61 MGA 1600. Tried checking out the Lucas 22744B C40 generator that is out of the car and unused for years. Hooked up a DC volt meter to the D (fat flat spade) and grounded to the casing, then turned the armature with a brush on a drill - got nothing at all. I read an article that talked about the magnetic field being lost over time so I wanted to be sure I do this properly if that is indeed the next thing to try.
Found articles that talk about polarizing and jumper wires which weren't entirely clear to me on where to "touch" the wires and they all have me doing it with the generator and regulator in the car usiing the hot side of the starter solenoid.....so that is why I'm asking for your help. Can you advise me on how to establish the magnetic field and bench check the generator unit? By the way I intend to convert to a negative grounded system in my restore.
I'm thinking this 22744 was a replacement unit as I'm only finding references to it in Midget/Sprite and TC/TD applications. I would intend to replace it with the appropriate generator from MOSS if this one turns out to be bad. Any thoughts about going for an alternator if a replacement is required?
First polarize the generator by grounding the case and energizing the small spade, the "F" terminal, with the hot wire from your battery. This magnetizes the poles on the field windings.

Now, when you spin the generator with your wire wheel you should pick up a voltage of 1-2 volts between the larger terminal, "D," and ground. To make the generator work more powerfully, connect D and F and run your voltmeter between that connection and ground. If you can spin the pulley fast enough you can get up to 100 volts!
ElectricsLight Grounding You have inspired me to get the old ragtop out and look at it again. I had almost given up and was going to put it on ebay. I recently put a new haz. switch on the 79 mgb. The left rear light was not flashing but the tail lights worked so I figured - put a new 1156 bulb. The existing bulb was ok. I took the fixture off and found that the ground was bad. Sanding the inside did not work. Why would the light fixture itself be insulated from the frame? Even the "nuts" holding the fixture in have plastic insulating washers. I jury rigged it by stripping wire and wrapping it around the outiside ot the bulb holder (taping it on) and running the other end to an attachment stud. Any advise will be appreciated. It is not a driver yet but may be with your inspiration. You seem to be close to understanding Lucas! I'm surprised that you'd find such a fault in your climate -- up here in the cold, wet, and salty winter we've encountered all sorts of disconnects. In the case of a socket isolating itself from the lamp base, peening the little tabs usually does it. It does seem odd that the nuts holding the lamp base to the body are isolated with plastic, but the ends of those nuts have little sharp points which I've suspected ensure the earth connection.
ElectricsMidget Radio Wondered about the AM radio. It squeeks - no music ( ok there probably isn't any music on AM ). My wife thinks it worked before its 25 year hibernation. I did get it removed, hoping to figure out the problem. Wondered if our car a negative ground? There is a local "radio guy" to take a look at it. Any suggestions? Many of those BMC radios were Motorola underneath. Yes, your Midget is negative ground. If your local guy cannot make it work, there are a host of repair shops listed in "Services" in Hemmings Motor News.
ElectricsWiring Harness Installation / Overheating1) I am going to install a new wiring harness in a 1972 MGB. Do yuo have any tips that might make the jobs easier or more fool-proof?

2) My car,, 1972 MGB, continues to run after I shut the key off. What could be the problem and how can I fix it? I dont think it has a anti-runon valve?

3) I am having problems with overheating. I am lossing antifreeze. It seems to just be boiling out some. At high way speeds it seems ok. I assume that tis is because of the greater air flow in the engine compartment. What sould I do? Flush and fill? How can I tell if the water pump is good? Should I be able to smell it if is is burning in the cylinders? See it if it is in the oil?
For your wiring harness, it is best if you physically placed it into the car then hooked up one connection at a time. With your year car you should have a anti run-on valve, it is powered with a slate with purple wire. Watch the youtube video for help. Over heating is very common with bad timing. your timing should be 32 DEG MAX with the vacuum disconnected.
ElectricsTCSA SwitchI'm De-toxing my 1980 MGB. I'm not understanding DT13. on page 310 in the book Haynes Restoration Manual MGB. I know where the vacuum advance is (it is on the distributor) What is TCSA switch? Than were is the inlet manifold? The picture in my book is real dark and I can't see it! TCSA is the Transmission Control Spark Advance. The inlet to the manifold is between the head and the carb and takes 1/4" NPT plug.
ElectricsFaulty Wiper SwitchAbout a week or so ago, I purchased a new wiper switch for my ’79 MGB. It arrived a couple days ago, and I attempted to install it today. As you know, it appears to be a very straightforward installation – remove the cowling, unplug the old switch, remove the old switch, attach the new switch, plug it in, replace the cowling.



I did this, but the wiper switch doesn’t work as the original did (both are Lucas, and appear identical). First of all, in the “off” position, the wipers appear to wipe intermittently – sweep, 1-second pause, sweep, repeat. In the “single wipe” position (pushing the lever up), the wipers stop completely – and the lever won’t stay in this position, so the wipers are always on. The “low speed” position appears to work normally, as does the “high speed” position – although the switch doesn’t want to stay in the “high speed” position, and jumps back to the “low speed” position – like the spring is too strong.



Any ideas of what I’ve done wrong?

We have made a YouTube video pertaining to your problem. it can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9_C2QAnk9A&feature=channel_page.
ElectricsMGA Turn Signals I have a 1960 MGA 1600 and want to ask you a question regarding
directionals. I was having trouble with the right side front
directional.
I checked the wires and they seemed OK. Now, the the directionals
started
blinking at all four bulbs. This occurs even when the dash switch is
turned
right or left. I installed a new flasher unit to no avail. I'm thinking
its
a wiring issue. Can you help?
You do have a wiring issue in the rear of your car. I
think that your wires are confused. Your green with white should be for
the right side, the green with red should be for the left and the green
with purple should be for the brakes. Any other questions, please call
during my tech hour.
ElectricsMGB Loud Horn
ElectricsMidget FuseboxThere are several brown wires that have what looks like a heat shrink covering on them that are in the area of the fuse box. We think we have identified all of the wires that do go to the fuses box, but these are extras. The fuse box had been relocated and all of the original wires had been spliced so not many of the original wire colors were present. We have put it back in it's proper location and connected the wires to the correct terminals according to the wiring diagram. Again this is on a 1978 Midget.

I think there is a top and a bottom when looking at the fuse box like on a B. How do tell the correct orientation when installing the fuse box?
The fusebox is fitted upside down from the MGB orientation. That is, the two bridged connections are at the bottom. The wires from the top to the bottom on the battery side should be: Brown; White; Empty; Red/Green. The wires from the top to the bottom on the fender side should be: Purple; Green; Red; Red. Those Brown wires with the black shrink tubing on them should all be common. The original loom had a translucent whitish four way connector into which these were fitted.
ElectricsAlternator WiringI'm in the process of changing out a Lucas ACR 16 34 Amp Alternator for a
Delco CS130 96 Amp Alternator.
My Lucas has 3 wires coming out. From what I can tell from colors, 2 are
heavy gage Brown w/Black and 1 thin Yellow w.Black. Obviously the colors
are really worn and hard to distinguish color wise.
My new Delco has wiring instructions that say Large & Small Solid Brown
along with Large Red from Alternator to the battery post on the
alternator. The Small Brown on the new plug to the Brown w/Yellow tracer
from the wire harness.
I've been on the web trying to find wiring diagrams for both alternators
with absolutely no luck. I've also tried several wiring combinations and
all I have succeeded in doing was the lock the starter up.
Any info will be much appreciated.
The BROWN wires are always hot and are connected directly to the
starter solenoid. The BROWN/YELLOW is the indicator light. That's about as
much as I can tell you. You can call, and that might be helpful if you
haven't already got this sorted out.
ElectricsMGA Rheostat / Potentiometer ohmsDoes anyone know the resistance value (0 - x ohms) of the panel light dimmer rheostat/potentiometer, or where to find it?I just checked an MGA potentiometer to find a range of 0-12 ohms. Doesn't seem like much, but I checked it thrice. It must be the same as an MGB.
ElectricsMidget Ignition WiringI recently dragged home a refugee midget that with a little clean up, should be running for this summer. My first hurdle is electrical. The previous owner replaced the battery, ignition switch, points/ condenser, cap and rotor, coil, plugs and wires--but had not gotten it running. At first, I had no spark whatsoever. By switching to known good wires, cap, rotor, and coil from my other midget, i got a feeble spark when i first started cranking, then nothing until just as I released the key. I decided to try jumpering 12v directly to the hot side of the coil and then I did get a nice steady stream of spark--so I suspect a wiring problem. My next plan is to try and trace the circuit back thru the harness and clean/ tighten each connection. I swapped the fuse box for a freshly cleaned (not new) unit. I am crossing my fingers that the car is not simply diabolically possessed! My problem is, I cannot find a wiring diagram that exactly matches my car--it appears that my coil is powered directly thru the ignition switch while the negative side (white with black tracer?) leads from distributor to coil and then the negative side of the tach. (I disconnected the tach suspecting a short in this circuit.) I did find one such diagram for the primary circuit, but other parts of the same diagram don't seem to match this car. (?)

At the aftermarket ignition switch, I have green/white, light brown/grey, dark brown, and white/ red--how do these align correctly with the harness? Also, what is the relay looking box on the rh fenderwell near/ outboard of the fusebox?
There is a direct connection from the key switch to the hot side of the ignition coil. The negative side of the coil is correctly connected to the distributor and to the tachometer.

The fusebox is wired "upside down" from the MGB. From the top, down, it's BROWN, WHITE, and RED/GREEN on the unfused side (pay attention to the buss between the two terminals at the bottom right); and PURPLE, GREEN, RED, and RED on the fused side.

From the ignition switch you have: BROWN - Hot, unfused, power INTO the ignition switch; WHITE/GREEN - first position, unfused, power to the radio; WHITE - second position, unfused, power out to the fusebox, coil, and fuel pump; WHITE/RED - start position, unfused, power to the starter relay. You may also have a SLATE wire which is hot, fused, when the key is OFF to work the anti-run on circuit.
ElectricsWiring HarnessDo you have a recommendation for wiring harness suppliers? My dash
harness melted all the way down to the starter. I have to rewire. Which
supplier is best in your experience?

By the way, the alternator that you rebuilt is (was) charging fine, and
the wires to it are not burned. It is probably still OK.
Our experience has been wonderful with British Wiring in Olympia Fields, Illinois. www.britishwiring.com Contact Leslie -- she'll help you out!
EngineEngineyes i have a 1973 mgb it have a newer mottor in it i think it is a 75 to a 78 it dont have the tack gear on the driver side and it has the weber carb on it the quist is on the rocker a semb the is a shem that was on it beteewn the head and rocker bracket i need to now what bracket it goes under are is all of then need this From 1972 through 1980 there were two shims fitted under the rocker assembly -- on the middle two pedestals. This was to place a bit of tension on the rocker shaft so it would prevent tramping -- vibration under certain conditions. The earlier engines did not have these shims -- but they did have much stronger valve springs. I have found them in the wrong places or non at all. It is not critical that they be fitted.
EngineOil PassageI was watching one of the videos that John made where he was talking about the 1500 cc engine and how the #3 bearing is not lubricated well. He recommended boring out the oil passage to help. What if during the rebuild the oil passage was not bored out, what can I do now or what should I avoid during driving? High speeds or high revving? Once the engine is assembled there is nothing more you can do, save keeping the oil clean and fresh. We use 20W/50 on all our engines. Change the oil at least once a season (in the fall before storage) and at 2500 mile increments. Watch your oil pressure gauge – you should always have at least 60 psi when you’re running at high speed. Hope this helps!
EngineEngine Smoking After RebuildHi John, Sorry to bother you. If I lived closer than the east side of Toronto I would just drop the car off with a blank cheque and have you fix it. I have just rebuilt the engine ( 1952 ) new >030 areolite piston with hastings rings , new bronze valve guides at .002 clearance ( a bit tight ) 30 weight non detergent oil for first 20 miles of break in . Problem is it smokes quite badly , especial;y when hot . I am told the piston andring clearances were to spec as provided to the engine shop . Rings were set at 120 degrees apart on insertion into bores . All spark plugs show wet and black. Timing is 10 degrees advanced . Roller cam kit installed compression 165psi on all cylinders wet or dry. All cylinders fire dwell at 60 degrees. Carbs rebuilt by joe Curto. at 5 flats down. At the first rebuild seven years ago using County four ring pistons there was no smoke at start up at all . I am quite confused by all this and more than a little frustrated . Hope you can help, thanks , Keith Keith! It is normal for engines to smoke for a short time after a rebuild. The inexpensive solution to your problem may simply be a 200 mile run up and down the 401 (carrying extra oil with you, for sure) to help the engine break in. The engine smokes for three reasons: the PCV system is plugged causing internal pressure; the valve guides are leaking; or the rings are not doing their job. The TD engine has an oil draught tube on the left side of the engine. These were sometimes replaced by finned side covers with very restricted breather vents which can cause smoking by allowing the sump to pressurize. If the oil draught tube is original there should be no problem. You can always remove the oil filler and blow into the engine. There should be absolutely no restriction to any air pressure. If the valve guides are faulty the smoking is exacerbated by high manifold vacuum -- it will smoke much worse idling or after a deceleration. But, in the end, it's almost always the rings. Faced with the prospect of removing the head and sump to hone the cylinders and change the rings, I'd drive it for several hundred miles at highway speed. Set your timing to 32 degrees before top dead center at maximum advance. Your original 40152 distributor has a 16 degree advance which translates to 32 degrees on the crank. I believe ten degrees at idle is probably too little advance, especially if the springs are even a bit loose or stretched. It is essential to dial in the carbs. After matching the air flow, test the mixture. As you lift the air piston about 1/8 inch three things may occur. The engine may run faster and faster -- alerting you that the carbs are set too rich. The engine may stumble and fall -- alerting you that the carbs are set too lean. The "perfect" mixture allows the engine to rise about 50 rpm and then fall off. Work one carb, then the other. You may have to adjust the idle speed several times as you achieve the best mixture. Rev the engine between every adjustment. Hope this little bit helps.
EngineOil Leak / PCVI\'m having trouble with oil coming out of the side cover vent on my 75 MGB. It is extreme at highway speeds. I have alot of moisture (white slim) in the valve cover. New valves were fitted last year and I\'m wondering if the head gasket might be leaking. There is no smoke coming out of the exhaust so I don\'t necessarily think it is blow-by from worn rings. The car is a daily driver for my 17 yr old daughter. Tom, Your 1975 MGB has a PCV system that works this way: Filtered air enters the engine through the 1/2" tube from the charcoal adsorption canister. Dirty air and blowby exits the front tappet inspection cover and is vented into the carburetter. This draft keeps the inside of the engine clean. If the tappet cover is blocked, intentionally or because the metal gauze inside has been baked (an overly hot catalytic converter perhaps years ago), then the engine will leak and blow oil out of nearly every gasket and seal. If the tappet cover is open and vented to a carb or the atmosphere, then excessive blowby is mostly likely the cause of worn compression rings. Make sure there is no impediment for the gasses to exit the engine. The milky white is the water/oil mix, again from the combustion. I doubt there is a head gasket problem.
EngineSmog System> Question: Hi John, > I'm a new 1979 MGB owner and found that the car has been been substantially de-smogged and many lines and intakes related to the emission controls have been blocked and plugged. I have a 2 part question. I'm wonderring how much of these changes are affecting the performance of my Zenith carburator and should I just leave it alone, though it looks unsightly and unusual. My second question is, if I chooose to remove all smog related apparatice from the engine and manifold, do you think a Weber carburator is a reasonable alternative that will require less maintenance. > Thank you and I enjoy your videos. > PeterPeter, There are three large sections of the smog system. One is the airpump; one is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system; and one is the Evaporative Loss Control System. The car does run better with the airpump and its associated plumbing removed. But, the remainder of the system is passive, does not impact performance, and should be left in place. If you will send me digital pictures of your underbonnet and then call me at tech time I can go over each hose and tell you if and where it should be connected. You may also find some of my YouTube videos helpful -- search YouTube for and scan the titles. Hope this helps!
EngineEngine Rebuild Cost> Question: How much should I expect to pay for a really serious engine rebuild? Do you know of a good shop in the Denver area?2012: Bob, Including a new clutch, installation, and tuning, you could spend as much as $5,000. We are in the $4000 -$4500 range here. You have the wonderful advantage of having Sportscar Craftsmen in Arvada. They are an excellent shop. John
EngineValve Stem SealsHi John,

I am going through the cylinder head from my 1960 MGA 1600, recovering from a coolant-to-oil leak. A friend of mine said he used Felpro valve stem seals rather than replacement originals. He thinks you may have given him the recommendation, but his memory is foggy.

So, the question: What should I use for valve stem seals? Do you have a recommended supplier?

Thanks a lot for the help. Happy spring time motoring.

Jay Fluehr

JAY!

Yes, use FEL-PRO seals, part Number SS 70373. These are for some sort of Chevy truck or something.

You'll not be able to use the internal cone (oil deflector) which sits inside the inner spring. Also, don't use the rubber O ring (which is nearly useless anyway).

These Felpro umbrella seals fit tightly around the valve guide and the stem and eliminate ALL oil leaking from the valve guides.

Hope this helps!
EngineHigh RPM'Morning John,

I hope this e-mail finds you well.

Got a question for you if you have time. I rebuilt the SU carbs and changed points/plugs/wires on my '68 B a few weeks ago. Everything is running great, it idles better and pick-up is much improved. The situation is now when I'm going about 60mph, the tach hovers around 4000. Before I did all of the above, it hovered around 3000rpm. What did I do? or what didn't I do?

Any quidence would be greatly appreciated as always. Also, do you still have the book for sale? I believe it was around $30 and have tons of tech tips. If so, I think I'd like to get a copy.

Comming down to MG2000 this year? I work in Cleveland and they have really done some great things the last 10 years. You'll have a good time and the Emerald Necklace does a good job at whatever they do.

Thanks again, John. Take care.

- Tony

TONY!

I cannot imagine what you did (or didn't do) to cause the tachometer to read differently than before the tune up. If the tach reading really drives you nuts, you can send it to me for calibration, or to Bob at Nisonger Instruments, Mamaroneck New York. I tell people to expect a reading of about 3500 at about 65 mph.

The technical book IS available for $30. Either call with your charge card number (try to call between 1-2 EST Mon - Fri -- that's my technical hour), or fax the particulars to: 616 682 0801.

YES, we'll see you in Cleveland!
EngineStarting Stored EngineJohn,

I have one more question. This MGB has been sitting for at least 13 years, and a friend told me before I try to start it I should remove the spark plugs and turn the cam shaft to make sure that the enginge isn't locked up.

I did and it isn't. He also said to pour a small amount of auto transmission fluid into where the spark go to coat the pistons and help remove any corrosion that might have built up over time. What do you think about this suggestion?

Thanks for your input.

Andy Phipps

ANDY!

The most important thing is to spin the engine to get oil pressure before trying to restart it after such a long time. The engine will spin more freely, and you'll get oil pressure more quickly, if you remove the spark plugs before spinning it with the starter motor. Oil down the cylinders will make little difference now -- had you done this when storing it, it would have prevented rust and corrosion -- but whatever has rusted and corroded has already done so. Oil down the cylinders will not hurt anything -- but if you get too much in there, it will make a real mess when you start spinning the motor!
EngineMotor MountsJohn

My motor mounts are getting a little soft from the oil that leaked from the engine. I have the engine pulled now and was wondering what is the best way to replace the drivers side mount?

Thank you

Michael Cerny

MICHAEL!

First, make certain you've purchased the "competition" mounts which are stronger and more durable.

Second, fit the rear / lower / innermost bolt into the motor mount bracket and WELD it into place -- that bolt is nothing but trouble trying to fit!

Third, it's necessary to remove the pinion from the rack and pinion to gain access to the nut on the bottom of the mount. Remove the shim pack from the top of the rack, remove the bolt at the steering U Joint, then slide the pinion out. This sounds like the workshop manual -- easy!! It's not. You'll probably have to grasp the pinion with vise-grips and drive it out.

Leave the pinion out until the engine is fitted, then when all is tight, replace the pinion and then center the steering wheel.
EngineRun-on, Hard Start77 MGB, Z/S carb, full emission equipment

Electronic Ignition Allison - been using it for the past 10 years (56,000 miles)

Recently had the engine rebuilt. I had not been using the vaccum advance since it was not connect when I purchased the car over ten years ago. The rebuilder reconnected the vaccum advance via a tee in the run-on control pipe and the manifold said it work correctly and I should use it. Engine does not ping under any driving conditions.

Engine now has about 1200 miles on the rebuild and runs great. EXCEPT when I want to shut it down or start it up when it is hot.

Likes to run on when I shut it down. Oil pressure switch, Ignition switch and run-on valve all work correctly , verified pressure switch ground, verified ignition (off) switching voltage, verified run on value switching (it clicks when I shut down and the oil pressure drops back to 0), cleaned connections.

When I start the engine hot it is very hard to start, starts ok if cold or cooled down for half hour or more.

Neither of these conditions is 100%, sometimes it shuts down quickly and sometimes it starts OK. I have renewed the carbon in the canistor. All hose connections are tight. I had the carb check by a local rebuilder who is experienced on Z/S he gave it a OK and I replaced the fuel line filter, has new plugs, new plug wiring, new distributor cap. A lot (most) of the tubing is also new. Once started purrs..... Just does not want to stop running and I am afraid I am going to pull in someplace for a coke or gas and not be able to restart it.

I have ran out of things to check. Any suggestions ? Thanks, Stan

STAN!

Your problems of run-on and hard start may be related. Look at the anti run-on system first.

When you place your finger over the end of the anti run-on valve inlet tube (located to the right of the radiator, on the front side of the radiator diaphragm) the engine should momentarily rise in rpm, then kill. If stopping the air flow into this tube does NOT kill the engine, then there IS a leak in the evaporative loss control system or in the positive crankcase ventilation system. Work with EVERY hose until you can get the engine to kill! Then the anti run-on system should work without hesitation.

If the engine DOES kill when the tube is blocked, but the engine doesn't kill when the key is turned off -- well, I'll have to think on that one!

To understand the system, follow the flow of the air: The gas tank is NOT vented to the atmosphere, but instead pushes air/fuel mixture into the charcoal adsorption canister when the fuel expands (when it warms up). Or, air is drawn through the canister and into the tank to replace gasoline which has been drawn out by the fuel pump.

The carburettor float bowl is NOT vented to the atmosphere, but instead pushes air/fuel mixture into the charcoal adsorption canister when the fuel in the bowl expands (after the engine is turned off and the heat causes the fuel to expand). For the carburettor to work correctly, atmospheric pressure MUST sit on top of the gasoline in the float bowl so that the gasoline can be pushed up and out of the jet when the air pressure there is depressed at the venturi (during running).

So, both of these are connected to the ADsorption canister, where fuel is ADsorped by the charcoal. This is the ELC (evaporative loss control) system. The gov't doesn't want raw fuel in the atmosphere.

During engine operation, air enters the anti run-on valve ventilation tube (at the radiator diaphragm), passes through the valve, into the bottom of the canister and through the charcoal (to purge it of fuel fumes), into the valve cover, through the engine, out of the front tappet inspection cover, and into the carburettor between the air piston and the throttle disc. Air is ALWAYS in motion through this system while the engine is running.

When you stop the air entering the system, the engine and the canister begins to evacuate. This, eventually, places a vacuum on top of the gasoline in the float bowl and starves the engine of the fuel in the "air/fuel" mixture.

When you energize the anti run-on valve, not only is this vent tube blocked, BUT, manifold vacuum REALLY evacuates the system and the engine is killed INSTANTLY for lack of fuel. You can energize the anti run-on valve (hot wire from the bottom of the fusebox to the stud which carries the SLATE/PURPLE wire on the valve) and test the integrity of the hoses.

Without a diagram, I know this is difficult to visualize.

The problem in the 1977 models and early 1978's is that the ignition coil is powered through the ignition relay. When you turn the key OFF, the ignition relay should turn off, of course -- BUT... The electricity coming out of the alternator, on the BROWN/YELLOW wire, which extinguishes the ignition light, now is free to pass through the ignition light, and continue to energize the WHITE circuit. When the fuel pump operates (WHITE CIRCUIT) the voltage drop is usually great enough of open the ignition relay. SO, fitting a diode into the BROWN/YELLOW wire (arrow of the diode pointed towards the alternator) also fixes your problem!

I suspect that the mixture is too rich, and the engine is flooding when trying to do a hot restart. Lean out the carb and try some more hot starts.

This was lengthy, but I hope it helps! Good luck!
EngineIdentifying EngineHi John;

I am hoping you can help with deciphering my engine number. I have a 1973 MGB GT that I purchased last October. My engine number is: 18V658M-L17025. I have checked this number against what is listed in Clausager's book "Original MGB" and cannot identify what 658M stands for. According to Clausager this engine was never put in MGBs on the assembly line. The engine does have AUD 550 SU carburetors which is right for the year. I have not sent of the BMIHT certificate to see if it is the original engine. If it is not then it would be of no help in determining what 658M stands for. Any suggestions?

Also, are you still running your workshop seminars?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Sincerely,

Mark Jones
New Brunswick, Canada

Mark!

The engine is one from an Austin Marina (sold in the UK as a Morris Marina). It is a severely detuned B series engine -- but who knows what has been changed in the meantime. In the end, it is the camshaft, valve size, distributor, and carbs that make the engine an MGB engine.

Watch our website for notes about next years technical seminars.
EngineGB Engine I am installing a GB engine in an MGA. All the info I have seen, and all the advise on the websites, says that I need to install an early MGB front cover and clutch fork on the MGA transmission ( 1600 model). However, after assembling the new engine/clutch, I compared it to the MGA 1622 which I had removed. The MGA with a used clutch measured 3-1/2" from the backplate to the actuation ring on the pressure plate. The GB, with a new clutch disc, measured 3-3/8". This 1/8" difference would be somewhat expected due to the clutch wear.

Am I missing something? Do I really need to change to the early B front cover or is the information wrong and the MGA front cover/fork ok?

ART!

You have probably solved your problems, but here is some more information. You have parts of two interchanges mixed up:

An MGA clutch can be upgraded to an MGB clutch. To do this, it is necessary to change the front cover of the gearbox to the MGB style, change the release bearing fork (and bearing), and, of course, change the clutch cover and disc to the MGB type.

An MGB engine can be fitted to an MGA, but you must change the rear plate, and have that plate opened to accept the MGB rear oil seal. Further, you have to fit an MGB flywheel which will accept the MGA clutch (65-67 MGB) so that the crash starter works.

In practice, I've seen all sorts of combinations -- some of which I would have sworn could not work -- but there they were, mashed and screwed together, working.
EngineLow Oil PressureMr. Twist,

I spoke with you on the telephone a couple of days ago about an MGA I recently purchased. The previous owner said that it probably needed to have it's engine overhauled. On the phone you had asked about the oil pressure, and it is about 35 lbs at regular running speeds. You said that was pretty low, and mentioned a couple of "not drastic" things that could cause that. I think I did pretty good with the purchase price, and I wouldn't want to run into any major engine problems in the near future, especially if I have the car sent from St. Louis, MO, up to you, so I wouldn't be against a complete engine rebuild. Can you give me a description of what you do in an engine rebuild, and some sort of prices. I have heard that these cars can be a bit quirky, so I know an estimate won't be exact.

Thank you for you time,

Jason J. Buchek

JASON!

The route to "proper" oil pressure is as follows:

1. Change the oil and filter -- use Castrol 20W/50 GTX
2. Change the oil pressure relief valve on the left rear of the block
3. Remove the sump and change the rod bearings and center main bearings (the first and last mains cannot be changed in the car), and replace the oil pump.
4. Remove the engine and replace the crank
5. Remove the engine and rebuild the engine.

1. $50
2. $50
3. $400
4. $1600
5. $4000

Since the prices begin to jump so dramatically, it's best to work UP! Yet, an examination of the rod bearings can determine the condition of the crank.

Hope this helps!
Engine1500cc EngineHello,

I have a '55 MG TF and have reason to think that the engine is the 1250cc engine and not the 1500cc engine. The car has been in my family for years and is now in my care. The brass plate on the block has been tampered with and the numbers cannot be read.

On the block is a casting number 168421 which matches numbers I have seen on other 1250cc engines. My dad never checked the numbers on the car when he bought it in 1979. Anyway, I am going to restore the car and may need to find an XPEG engine block. I am sure that is not an easy item to find. Any suggestions?

Is it true that the only difference between the 1250cc engine and the 1500cc engine is the block and pistons? The head, cam, etc are the same. Well, this is my situation. The car has the 1500 TF badges on the side, but I think the engine was changed before my dad bought the car. I would like to rebuild the correct engine when the time comes.

I would welcome your advice. Also, do you guys have a correct TF valve cover as mine is aftermarket?

Marty Ennis

MARTY!

Your suspicions are correct -- the 1250 block has a numerical casting number, the 1500 carries an alpha-numeric casting code ( I want to say it's an AEG prefix on the 1500, but I'm not certain). YET, in the end, this will bother only YOU! Continue to advertise for the 1500 block, but expect to pay handsomely! I would keep an advert up on www.mgcars.org.uk.

We do not have the correct TF valve cover.
EngineEmission ControlsDear Mr John H. Twist

I have just bought an MGB Roadster(Built May 1978) that has been imported in to the UK from southern California so it has the full nine yards when it comes to emission control systems installed. My girlfriend has given me the Haynes Restoration Manual For MGB's for a Christmas present that has a section in it written by you regarding "De-Toxing" US Cars. The excerpt that is in the book covers removal of the EEC system do you have anymore information regarding the removal of any other systems that were incorporated for the US market (Californian) (e.g. the Evaporation Loss Control System) so that I can get the car back to a basic engine

Gavin Hunt

New MGB Roadster owner

GAVIN!

My suggestion is to remove the air pump, air manifold, gulp valve, and associated plumbing -- but leave the ELC (evaporative loss control) system alone. That ELC system incorporates the charcoal canister, the evaporative canister in the boot -- and really does help keep the air clean without affecting the operation of the engine (much).

You can, of course, remove the carburettor, and solder shut the spring loaded poppet valve (the overrun valve) which will give you better throttle response on deceleration.

If you have any further questions, please get back in touch.
EngineValve Seat Machine DimensionsDear Sir,

I am in the process of rebuilding the head of my 73 MGB and in need of the valve seat machine dimensions for the intake valves. The engine # is 18V672 Z L9507 and from what I read, the intake valves are larger on that engine than the others. My "The Complete Official MGB" manual only provides the dimensions for what appears to be the smaller intake valve. I have just sent for your Tech Manual and as they say "the check is in the mail". I noted there was a section "MGB cylinder head data", perhaps that information is in the manual.

Thankyou

Sincerely
Earl A. Epps

EARL!

The head probably takes the 1 5/8" intake valve -- that is 1.625" Interestingly, this valve (minus the 5/16" stem) yields almost exactly 2.0 square inches of cross section. Note, too, that this valve is LARGER than the 1 1/2" carburettor!

Much more information than this is in the book. Hope you like it!
EngineHousing Bore SizesMr. Twist,

My name is Pete Ingwersen, AMGCR #1295 (I think), and I have my MGC engine in the shop for a complete rebuild. One question the shop has that the manual does not answer is the following: What are the housing bore sizes of the Main Caps and the Big End Rod Caps? These are not the journal or bearing diameters, but the actual diameter of the hole formed by the block and cap or rod and cap in which the bearing set. Where can I find these specifications? I need them in a hurry. Can you help me? Thanks for your time.

Pete Ingwersen

PETE!

The housing diameter for the main bearings is: 2.5210 - 2.5215
The housing diameter for the big end is: 2.1140 - 2.1145

This is not an uncommon question! Hope this helps!
EngineDetoxHi John,

I bought my first MG in September of 1999 from a couple in NC. It's a 73 Midget. They knew I was going to drive it home when they saw the smile on my face after the test-drive. It was fitted with pollution control equipment to pass NC inspection. I'm not required to e-test here in GA. I'd like to detox the engine but I can't find the information on your site. If you could point me in the right direction I would surely appreciate your help.


JIM! Quickly: Remove the air pump and air manifold -- plug the head with 7/16" Allen set screws (looks nice). Pull the 90 degree fitting from the intake manifold and tap it 1/4 NPT and fit an Allen pipe plug (looks nice). Remove the carbs and 1) solder the overrun valves from the button side, or 2) replace the throttle discs with new ones (non pollution). The new discs are, by far, the best solution because of air flow. Remove the gulp valve from the intake manifold and plumb the vacuum advance line directly from the manifold to the distributor.

That's all!
EngineEngine OptionsJohn,

I have a 1979 MGB that has been raped over the years and is in poor condition. I want to put a new carb, exhaust, and distributor in it. Right now there is no air pump, converter, or heater. It has a 25d distributor and the original carb. The car runs ok but it does not have any pickup or power from a stand still. The compression on the engine is good,so I am thinking about getting a weber DGV carb, big bore stainless steel exhaust, and a mallory dual point distributor. What do you think of this and what would you recommend with the options that are available(weber DCOE, header, lucas distributor, etc).

Thanks for your time,

Michael T. McLaughlin

Michael!

The first step in your search for power, reliability, and efficiency is a good tune up by someone who knows what they're doing. This can ("can") be a professional, but it can be YOU, too!

If you brought your MGB to my shop, we'd charge you around $250 for a "complete" tune up. You would be pleased. But, IF you wanted more, then you could elect to do some of this radical stuff you're fantasizing about.

Remember that Webers say "Bologna" on top; All Headers are LOUD, all headers leak, all headers are headaches; you do not need a dual point distributor -- no MG runs out of spark.

Where do you live? Do you want a step by step so that YOU can tune your MG. Maybe you'd fly me out to your house? (It might be less expensive than all this other stuff!).
EngineOil Leak, TimingDear John,

I need your help for engine reconstruction. I recently pulled the engine out for not a rebuild but for a rear engine leak. I think I have this problem solved. It's either because the rear plate was not tightened down good or the rear crank bearing cap was not smeared with a sealer before it was tightened down. By the way, what are your thoughts on this and what kind of sealer do you usually use on the bearing caps. On to my real problem- After getting all my new gaskets, I'm ready to set the motor at TDC and put the fly wheel back on. Following my shop manual, I rock the 4th lifter-exhaust just closing and inlet just opening. That should be TDC. Viewing the timing gears, the dimples should line up. Mine don't - does it really matter if they do or don't? The crank dimple points toward the cam but the cam dimple points 180 degrees away from where it should. Does it mean that I should undo the cam nut and rotate the cam 180 degrees?

Or just leave it. Now on to the flywheel orientation. The manual says the number 4 on the flywheel should be pointing to the number 4 and throws of the crank. What are the throws?

Thats about it. I would appreciate your expert opinion on my problems. I would love to get the car on the road come this Spring.

Sincerly yours,

Rick Davis

RICK!

You have two considerations -- a leaking rear oil seal and a problem understanding the workshop manual.

The engine has a problem not leaking out the rear. All there is there is that scroll thread which attempts to screw the oil back into the rear main cap. IF, IF you have had the engine "align bored" or "align honed" then the rear slinger will fit concentrically about the scroll thread and allow about 0.003 clearance, and it will not leak (at least, not much). By the way, there is a NEW rear seal soon on the market, which will offer a POSITIVE seal.

We use silicone gasket goo (RTV silicone sealant) on the rear gasket and on the block cork used between the rear cap and the sump. We use silicone goo on ONE SIDE of the sump gasket, and GREASE on the other -- in case the sump has to be removed at some time in the future.

When the dimples on the timing gear are NEXT to each other, the engine is firing on #4. When the dimple on the cam gear is at about 2:00 (opposite of the above), then the engine is firing on #1. When the rockers are "rocking" they are both open and the other cylinder is firing.
EngineHigh-RPM ScreechingDear Mr. Twist,

I got your name from my former mechanic (I had to move... military, you know how it is...). Since he revered your wisdom, I humbly ask for your technical assistance. I have a 1971 MGB. I just had the engine and transmission rebuilt and new U-Joints installed. I followed my mechanic's recommendations for engine break in and have recently finished it. I now have about 2000 miles on it and whenever I exceed approximately 3700 RPM, the engine starts to screech! I thought it might have been a belt, or my air pump seizing. I sprayed silicone lubricant onto the belts, no help. I removed the belt from the air pump, no help. Next I noticed that it didn't happen only at 3700, but if I down-shifted and popped the clutch, it would do it. Also, sometimes I can exceed 3700 RPM, only to have it start at a higher speed. It doesn't matter if the car is moving or not, so I think it's not the transmission. Could this be the water pump? or alternator? HELP!!!!

Michael Burman, SrA, USAF

Michael!

OK, it seems that your engine screams when it hits a certain rpm, whether you're on the road or not. So, disconnect the fan belt, drop it away from the engine, and run the engine up through that rpm range where the noise occurs. If it is gone, then the problem is the alternator or water pump. If it is not, then it's within the engine. I'd put my money on the alternator, but let me know!
EngineMGB Big Valve HeadHi There,

I am looking for an MGB big valve head (c. 1972-1974, with and 'L' cast in the back of the head). If you happen to have one laying around, would you please forward price and condition to:
Mike Franey
Thanks for your time, much appreciated.

Mike!

You know that you can install the larger valves into the older heads, at the same time that you have hardened valve seats installed. This is your easiest solution. However, I might have something lying around. If so, I'd want $250 for the head -- I would have it crack checked first to ensure that the cracks would be smaller than the size of the replacement valve seats. If you wanted me to prepare a head -- 100% done and set to install, with bronze silicone guides, hardened seals, umbrella seals, surfaced,
triple cut valve seats, then the final price would be about $600.
Let me know!
EngineDetoxI read your detox instructions for a 75-80 'B. How much of that applies
to my low-compression '72 'B?
Thanks J Donoghue

Mr Donoghue!
Just about all the information. The important things are to keep the evaporative loss control system in place -- that keeps the engine clean; to block off the fittings on the intake manifold so that the induction system
cannot leak; to clean the right side of the engine so that it looks nice. Set your timing at 15 BTDC at 1500, vacuum disconnected. I believe you'll find that the car will have a little more zip -- and that slowing down will be faster. If you really want to make a difference in the slow down,
solder the overrun valves shut (the carb butterflies). Heat the button side and flow solder onto the disc from the spring side.
Good luck!
engineWinter OilJohn
As you may or may not know I drive my 74 BGT year round - New Jersey. I normally use 20-50 oil in the engine and dashpots. What do you suggest for winter driving - 10-30?
Thanks Rick

Rick!

I drive my wife's MGB/GT all year round. Here, it gets just as cold as it does in New Jersey. I use Castrol 20W/50 all year round -- and in the carbs, too. Sometimes, on VERY COLD mornings, it'll take several minutes of driving before I get full oil pressure -- that oil must be like syrup on the bottom of the sump. But, I've done that for years and years. In fact, Caroline's car has 180,000 on the engine and the CRANK HAS NEVER BEEN OUT OF THE BLOCK!
Rick, thanks for all of your work on the MG Council!
EngineRear Engine Oil SealDear Mr. Twist,
The rear engine oil seal on my 1950 MGTD leaks badly and I would like to replace it with the Moss Motor seal. Do you know anyone you would recommend to do this work in the Philadelphia / Reading area
Thank you for your time.
Best Wishes, Michael B. Simson, MD

Dr Simson!

Let me suggest that you call Steve Harding, chairman of the Philadelphia MG club for a recommendation -- he lives at 1913-D Darby Road, Havertown -- he has an Email address, but I don't have it right here. Let me also suggest that you do not fit the Moss seal, but instead "do the right thing." You know that the crankshaft does not have a modern lip type seal. Instead, it has a scroll thread, or archimedes screw, that spins the oil back into the engine. Over a long period (fifty years!), the saddles that hold the main bearings, the slinger that surrounds the scroll
thread, and the crankshaft lose their common concentricity. The "real" solution is to disassemble the engine, get the lower end ALIGN BORED or ALIGN HONED. This will place all three circles with a common center, and
the original scroll thread will work wonderfully well. However, you can easily make the case that this work would far exceed the Moss rear seal in cost!

Good luck!
EngineRod IdentificationJohn
If you have time to dispense information.....I have a dismantled 1622 engine with various connecting rods, some from a 1622 and others from early Bs. Trying to sort out which rods belong to the 1622. Looking at casting numbers, I am assuming that 12H425 belong to cylinders 2 & 4 and 12H427 belong to cyls 1 & 3. Are these casting numbers
something I can use for positive identification or should I get out the micrometers.

Sincerely, George Horton - Anchorage, Alaska

GEORGE!

It is my understanding that the rods are the same between the 1622 and the MGB. Of course there are two different types of rods -- 1&3 and 2&4 because of the offset of the crank to the cylinders. Yet, I had a fellow call not too long ago concerned about the weight difference between his
rods -- about 16 grams. Remember on reassembly that the small oiling hole at the top of the rod bearing points AWAY from the camshaft. This isn't much help this late in the game, but I'm catching up on letters -- if you write again the answer will be a little more quickly forthcoming!
EngineDetoxingMr. Twist
I'm trying to finish detoxing my 1979 MGB with a single Zenith Stromberg carburetor. Two questions:
1) Your instructions state "Close down the air bleed by unscrewing the brass screw, then tightening the white plastic nut, then retightening the brass screw". Which screw is the "air bleed" screw? Is this component #15 (idle air regulator) as pictured on page 140 of the Complete Official MGB 1975-1980?
2) I'm fitting a gasket and plate to replace the removed EGR valve. Can I replace the EGR brass carburetor connection with a set screw?

Thank you, Russ Holder

RUSS! I thought that Alaska still had emission control inspections. The air bleed screw is the idle air regulator, which allows fresh air to bypass the jet/needle and lean out the idle mixture to achieve the correct CO
level. Just close it off and then tune the Stromberg as you would an SU -- by lifting the piston and judging the change in rpm. You certainly could replace the EGR port on the carburetter with a plug -- but you might need high speed (ported) vacuum sometime in the future for a
different distributor. Better just to cover the end of the brass port with a rubber nipple which you can purchase at the auto parts store. Hope this helps!
EngineValve ClearancesI didn't invent this one, so please don't give me any credit.

It involves a method to check clearances on MG valves using "The Rule of
Nine." When a particular valve is fully open, then the corresponding
number
valve is fully closed and the two numbers (of the two valves) add up to
nine.

e.g. when valve number 8 is fully open, then valve number one should be
fully closed and tappet clearances may be checked and adjusted on number
one. 8 + 1 = 9

Craig! Thanks so much for thinking of me on this one. It's much more
printable than the last one I got which was entitled "nipples up." I
believe I probably have included this in the tune-up section of my
technical book, but I'll make certain. As you know, most of my ditties
are just that. We just had our electrical technical seminar and I stumbled
on identifying the correct wire and placement as it enters the back of the
headlight bulb "Blue with White is Bright is Right."
EnginePistonJohn,
I am looking for a +.060 Piston for a 1098cc Midget engine. It
carries the
AE part number of 16179 and has 5 rings. Would you have one (or a set or
5)
in stock with rings? I can be reached at glownsdale@aol.com.
Thank you.
Gary Lownsdale

Gary!

Sorry, but try Pierce Manifolds -- they're in California, maybe 90 miles
south of San Francisco. Cannot remember the city name. He has quite a
quantity of NEW, OEM parts.
EngineLightening FlywheelHi,

Can you give me any advice on lightening a 1275 flywheel? I recently
purchased a used one that I'd like to remove a few pounds from. I
autocross my '60 Bugeye and believe the reduced reciprocating weight
would help.

TIA Herb

Herb!

Contact S Mark Palmer in Bethlehem, PA, chairman of the MG Vintage Racers
-- he may be able to help. Also, please contact Jeff Burns at Motorhead,
in Alexandria, Virginia. BTW Jeff used to pass out green covered book
matches titled "World Peace through British Cars." He's a good guy. Or,
go right to Brown and Gammons in Baldock, Herts, England. Sorry I don't
have the info at my fingertips.
EngineIdentifying EngineMr. Twist,

I sent an Email to you about a week ago. It was in reference to the Engine
in my 1977 MG Midget. It appears that my engine was a transplant but I
have
yet to determine what it is. It looks like the 1500 Spitfire but...the
serial number is DM 735E SS.
This is neither MG or Triumph so it seems. The Engine block is stamped
STANPART below the intake and exhaust ports.

I'm hoping that you could put some light on this thing. I'd like to know
what it is and where it comes from.

Thank you in advance.

Sincerely,
Dan Dwelley

Dan! I have absolutely no information about the TR engines, other than
some notes from the MG workshop manuals. I would expect to find a FM
prefix, followed by a UE suffix. Whether this is from an earlier TR sedan,
I don't know -- but I bet that if you contact the Roadster Factory in
Armagh, PA, they can give you some direction. You could also contact a TR
club in your area -- there must be a big one in the DC area.
EngineHeadsHi John, I have a cracked cylinder head on my stock 70 Mgbgt. Engine has
about 18k miles since rebuild by previous owner. Is it worthwhile
performance
wise to replace this head with one of the new alloy heads , standard or
crossflow? I use the car regularly for street use but find the performance
lacking when accelerating . Do I have to go for larger SUs and larger bore
exhaust system or will the stock system be adequate? Moss and Victoria
stock
these heads. Do you also and what would be the price?
Thanks, Leonard

Leonard!

You have three options, in increasing price: find an original cast
iron head (perhaps I can supply one at about $600), fit your original
equipment, ensure a GOOD tune-up, and be satisfied with "stock"
performance -- very well much greater than now. Second, fit the new
aluminium head, but ensure that it is smoothed prior to fitting -- these are
available from Moss and Victoria (I do not sell new parts by mail) for about
$800 plus the machine shop charge to set it all up -- you may get slightly
increased performance here. Third, the cross flow head will cost you nearly
$2000 or so by the time you're done with the manifolding, carbs, etc, but it
will provide a GREAT boost to power.
I am "Mr Original" and would advise you to find and fit a cast iron
head. That not being available, I would go with the aluminium replacement.

Hope this helps a bit!
EngineOil Pressure I have a 1968 MGB which has approx. 900 miles on it since it's engine
rebuild. It performs very well. My concern is with the oil pressure. It
has been running at 70 psi +/- but last week end it dropped to 55 psi
while
cruising at 2500 rpm. Now it usually stays at 70 but occasionally drops
to
55. If I accelerate or gear down it returns to 65 or 70. I have changed
the oil at 500 miles and examined it as well as the coolant. everything
appears to be normal.

There is a new oil pump in place and relief valve kit. The only other
possibilities that I can think of are the rocker arm shaft is worn. Their
were no holes in it when I cleaned it in the spring. And maybe the sensor
or the gauge. But why would it respond to higher rpms

Terry E. Carr

TERRY!

Your engine should hold about #70psi above about 1500 rpm. But, I
would NOT trust your oil pressure gauge if it is the original, electric
unit. The oil gauge will read higher or lower, depending on the output of
the alternator (which SHOULD be fixed) -- but the sending units are
notorious for being wrong. New sending units are about $US120. SO -- if
you have the opportunity and/or ability, change to a mechanical gauge
(71-76).

Low oil pressure can be caused by diluted oil, a sticky or unshimmed
oil pressure relief valve, or extreme use (loose bearings). The way you
describe your problem -- that is, the oil pressure sometimes reads like the
tachometer -- is usually caused by faulty rod bearings -- the crank is not
smooth or the rod caps have been switched from rod to rod.

Let me know more about your rebuild and I'll try to give you more
hints.
Remember, you CAN remove the sump and the OP relief valve without removing
the engine from the car.

FAST FORWARD!
EngineMotor NoiseMorning John,

Got a curious "question" about my 1968 MGB. Its got
a 1965 5-bolt main motor that seems to be making a
little more noise than usual in the block. The car
accelerates fine and have noticed no excessive leaking
of any kind of fluid. The noise isn't comming from
the valve cover area, it sounds further down. There
also isn't any additional smoking from the exhaust
than usual. The oil pressure is fine and no leaking
from the water pump - its seems to be cooling fine.

The car's got over 80,000+ miles with a minor rebuild
on the motor. The carb's were rebuilt about a month
ago. The timing belt and associated parts were
replaced about three years ago.

What else can I investigate? I know you are busy, but
really appreciate your time.

Thank you again.

- Tony Godfrey

TONY!

You should expect #65-75psi at highway speed with your engine, and a
pressure of 40 or so at idle. Ensure that you're using Castrol 20W/50 GTX.
Rod bearing noises evidence themselves by rapping, which dramatically
increases during acceleration (load). Wrist pin noises evidence themselves
by a slight rapping, heard during deceleration. Piston slap (a looseness in
the
bore) is worst at idle and silences as the rpm increases.

Ensure then engine is coming from the block by disconnecting the fan
belt and running the engine (maybe only for a minute) so that the water pump
and alternator are not turning.

Listen for the noise when the clutch is out, and when the clutch is
depressed (that can shift the crankshaft fore and aft slightly).

Rev the engine up to 5000 while sitting still and listen to see if
the noise is a szzzzzzz or a ringing -- this could be exhaust. These noises
are also harmonics, so that if it occurs at 2000 it will probably also
occur at 4000.

Ensure that the tappets are adjusted correctly -- even run the
engine with the valve cover off -- use a 0.010 feeler between the valve and
rocker on each valve. If the noise disappears, then the problem is a faulty
cam follower (lifter) or cam.

Hope some of this helps.

SAFETY FAST!
EngineOil Cooler John:

I hope the time you spent in Iowa was restful. I am Paul Brown, Willard
Brown's brother I live in Montclair. I own a 1967 Mineral Blue MGB.

After many tries to stop my "B" from smoking I have decided to have the
engine rebuilt. It is being done as I write this Email to you. My mechanic
says that I do not need an oil cooler after the rebuild because today's
motor
oils are much better than they were years ago. So, he is not attaching an
oil
cooler. Is that advisable? He tells me that if oil dose not reach a
certain
temperature it can actually be harmful to the engine. What are your
thoughts
on his advisement? He also says that after breaking the engine in with a
1000
miles of driving. The engine can be lubricated with a synthetic lubricant
like Mobil One. Is that possible? If so please advise. Is Mobil One the
best
synthetic? If not, please make a suggestion.

I am also replacing the Weber down draft with the original SU's. A bonus
the
he is rebuilding is a 18GB-U-H (5 bearing).

Please advise, I value your expert professional opinion.

Paul Brown

PAUL!

I have never seen a correlation between oil cooler use and engine
longevity. This I know: All (there are always exceptions) MGBs imported to
the US were fitted with oil coolers from 1962 - 1974/2. The 18V engines
with three piston rings and single row chains get more miles on them before
a rebuild is necessary than the older 18G engines.
Do you NEED an oil cooler? The answer is NO. Would I fit an oil
cooler to a 1967 MGB? The answer is YES -- because it is original, and
because those engines DO develop more heat than the later ones.
After your massive investment (a "total" engine easily costs $3000)
what's another $150 or so for the cooler and hoses?

Say hello to Willard!
EngineTicking SoundHere is a thorny one for you to cogitate!

READ THIS AND CONSIDER. YOUR INPUT IS VALUED.

The TiF (1955 TF 1500) is making a ticking sound, prominent at idle.
It sounds like a valve lash set way too wide. Here are some
observations related to this sound:
1. It occurs regularly at cam speed (I think, this is hard to tell),
and is most prominent at lower rpms, such as idle.
2. It lessens as the engine warms, but is still present. With a warm
engine, the intensity of the sound waxes and wanes.
3. It goes away under heavy load (such as starting away from a dead
stop), and quickly returns as the load lessens.
4. It is somewhat louder as the engine decellerates after
accellerating.
5. The sound is more prominent on the right side of the engine.
6. Using a screwdriver as a stethoscope, the sound seems loudest with
the screwdriver held against the head just in front of #2 sparking
plug and at the middle tappet cover bolt. It is not audible via
screwdriver anywhere else.
7. Pulling sparking plug wires reveals that the sound goes away if #2
has no spark, and returns immediately upon returning spark to #2.
8. Compression testing reveals: (pump-up pressure, amount of time
required to then decline to 100#) #1 - 160#, 12 sec.: #2 - 170#, 11
sec.:
#3 - 170#, 11 sec.: #4 - 170#, 12 sec.
9. Sound persists after ensuring correct valve lash settings.
10. By decreasing valve lash setting until it is just eliminated, the
sound disappears. In particular, eliminating valve lash on #3 valve
(intake
for #2 cylinder) eliminates the sound.
11. Observation of rocker action suggests all cam lobes functioning.

12. Inspection of rocker assembly reveals: 1. bushings and shaft in
good shape. 2. rocker pads (where they contact the valve) are pitted
on #2 intake and exhaust, and #4 exhaust. #2 exhaust is particularly
bad. These were then ground to present a smooth surface to the valve
stem, without any resultant change in the sound.
13. Lifters removed and inspected. #1 and #8 severly worn.
Inspection of cam (as best possible without actual cam removal) fails
to reveal
any obvious defect of the cam. New lifters installed using lots of
cam lube on the cam lobes and lifter faces. This does not eliminate
the
sound.
14. #2 intake pushrod slightly bent (about 1/16" out of straight).
Replaced, without impact on the sound.
15. All pushrods inspected and are otherwise free of galling
scraping, or cracks. Ends tight.
16. Engine rotated by hand (wrench on the front pulley bolt) until
piston #2 just starting to descend, as observed through spark plug
hole.
A screwdriver was then used to push down on the piston, looking for
any free play in the small end. None noted. Top of piston noted to
be carboned up (as are the other 3, as well).
16. With rocker assembly removed, intake and exhaust valves on cyl.
#2 do not wiggle back and forth.
(17. I considered removing I2 and E2 valves to inspect guides, but
cannot do so with engine in the car. However, looking through the
springs, the guides seem intact, although adequacy of this exam is
doubtful.)

SO!!!
The problem seems to be in cylinder #2. Is it a bad small end? Is it
a cracked rod? Is it cam-related? I am baffled why removal of valve
lash
AND removal of #2 spark both relieve the sound. ANY HELP IS
APPRECIATED!

P Smith

PHIL!

Run the engine at idle, noting the noise. Place a 0.010 feeler
between the rocker and valve stem -- if the noise goes away, then the
problem is cam/lifter/pushrod related.

A rapping on deceleration, is a loose gudgeon pin to con rod fit.

Please let me know what you find.

We now ALWAYS have the rods crack checked!
EngineRebuilding MotorI am rebuilding a 77 'B', the motor has to badly burned pistons. I
would like to rebuild it my self. Could you recommend a step by step
guide. I has gotten lists to parts for verious rebuilds, but I need
more guidance.

George!

Let me be so bold as to propose that you purchase about three books,
then use the information in all to determine your best route. The factory
workshop manual is essential (available as a Bentley reprint); my own
University Motors Technical Book is a GREAT help, as it has a step by step;
and the MGB Engine video is great.

I believe all are available from Ron Embling at Britbooks
1-800-READ-MGM. He's in upstate New York. My book is at the printers,
AGAIN!, and will be available in a week or so. Send me your snail mail
address and card number -- the book is $30.
EngineObtaining Original Engine NumberHello,

I'm currently having my 1976 MGB restored. During the engine rebuild, my
engine id plate must have been cooked and melted. I understand that it is
possible to obtain the history your car (engine number, chasis number, and
car specs) by writing to the British Motor Heritage Trust. I have two
questions. Is that the only way to obtain the original engine number?
Once I receive the engine number, is there a place you know of where I can
then get the number stamped onto the id plate?

Any input you can give me would be greatly appreciated!!

Thank you,

Bill

BILL!

Get the engine number from:

Anders Clausager, Archivist
British Motor Heritage
Archive Center
British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
Banbury Road
Gaydon, Warwickshire CV35 0BJ
ENGLAND

This service costs $40. You receive a certificate suitable for framing.

Then, send the number to Todd Clark, Clark Spares and Restoration, Swamp
Road, Doylestown (philadelphia area), PA. He can do the reverse stamping.

Hope this helps!

SAFETY FAST!
EngineRun-on ValvesGood Afternoon John

I have a1979/80 MGB LE. Recently my car would keep running on after I
shut
the engine off. I decided to order a new Anti-Run-on valve from Moss
after
testing the one I have by grounding the slate/yellow wire connected to the
oil pressue sending unit. I know the wires are good because I tested
them.
However, when I grounded my old run-on valve and the TWO new one I
oredered
from Moss, I did not hear the valve operate as apparently I should. Is
there a reason I would not hear the valve operate for my year car, or is
it
really possible that the TWO new valves that I ordered from Moss could be
bad? Thanks for your input.

Most Cordially,

Robert L.F. Clarke
Immigration Paralegal

Rose Rix & Bennett LLP

Robert!

Let me explain how the system works -- then you can re-check your
system. The anti run-on valve is designed to place a vacuum on top of the
gasoline in the float bowl at the instant the car is turned off. This
vacuum prohibits any gasoline from mixing with the air that is still being
drawn through the carburettor causing the engine STOP DEAD.

The SLATE wiring is HOT with the ignition switch turned OFF. The
SLATE circuit is wired through a fuse where it becomes SLATE/PURPLE. This
wire is connected to the anti run on valve. The other wire, SLATE/YELLOW,
connects the anti run-on valve to the oil pressure switch, which is normally
open -- that is, it closes only with oil pressure. Now the only time the
valve operates is when the key is turned off AND you have oil pressure --
that ten seconds or so after the engine has been shut off. You will not
hear the valve close, but you will hear it open when the oil pressure drops
to zip.

If you're still unclear, give me a call during my technical hour
1-2pm EST Mon-Fri, or Email me again.

SAFETY FAST!
EngineSuccessful Engine Replacement I have finished replacing the engine in my MG-TD. Took it on a 50 mile test run, one small seep was only problem.(mine). I must tell you that the work you did made a dramatic difference. It starts instantly, runs smooth(as smoothly as a 4 banger can) and is as solid as I have ever felt.
Thank you and your staff for a job well done and I'll be using you again if needed. Nice to deal with a business that offers good respectable service; hard to find these days.

VR, Skip Fritz

PS: Engine box badly damaged - I am glad I built it - not worth repairing, sorry.

SKIP!

Glad to know everything worked out well! Keep the oil changed and be sure to adjust the valves again after about 500 miles!
EngineReplacing EngineDear Mr. twist
I own a 1956 mga Ihave the old 1500 engine, its in very bad shape. I
would like to insert a datsun A14 engine and the macthing 5 speed
Trany Is there any information on this type of project.

Any help would be greatly enjoyed

Mike Alley

MIKE!

If this Datsun engine is the "J" series, then it is virtually the
same engine as the B series engine you have in the MGA right now. Let me
caution you. You will severely diminish the value of your MGA by fitting
non-standard parts. This is even more a problem if you have little
experience in engineering and this type of work -- as the finished product
will never "look right."

Why not rebuild the MGA engine -- or even fit a later model MGB
engine? I think you would be happier with the result!
EngineFreeze Out PlugDear Mr. Twist,
Thank you very much. It is the rear freeze out plug. Now all I
have
to do is read up on fixing the problem; since I never have had any
dealings
with freeze out plugs.
Thanks again
dave matos

DAVE! You'll have to remove both intake and exhaust manifolds, renewing the
manifold gasket, carb gaskets, and cleaning everything as you go. Take the
manifold to the auto parts store (NAPA, for instance), and they can get you
the right freeze plug.
These plugs are called freeze plugs, core plugs, or Welch plugs. They come
in dish or cup style -- you want the dish. And, the size you want it
fractional, not metric.
EngineValve Train NoiseJohn, a quick synopsis before my question: I by a 68MGB-GT not running.
Get
it running. Excessive valve train noise. Pull CAM, chunk of first lobe
missing. Tappets look like 50 year old hammers. Bore of #1 tappet appears
to
have small shiny flecks of metal imbedded into walls. Replace CAM,
tappets,
push rods, rocker assembly. Only minor help. Have engine rebuild performed
($2500) foolishly thinking block will get visual examination, etc. Rebuilt
engine sounds the same as before rebuild. Conclude only cylinders rebored,
tappet bores probably NOT rebored and then fitted with oversize tappets.

So here's the question. ARE there oversize tappets available for the MG
series B engines? Is the famous remark "oh, some of them just sound like
that" caused by worn tappet bores?

The first question is: what is making the noise in your engine? The second
question is: Does this noise indicate some fault with the engine or is it
just bothersome? The third question is: How can I quiet the engine?

So, first things first: disconnect the fan belt and run the engine. Is the
noise still there? If not, the cause is the alternator or water pump.
Next, plug the exhaust with a handful of rags while the engine is idling.
Does the noise increase or change? If so, then the problem is associated
with the exhaust systems or gaskets. Next, remove the valve cover and start
up the engine. Insert a 0.010 feeler gauge between the valve stem and
rocker on each of the eight valves. If one or more of these insertions
quiets the engine, then you know that the noise IS, in fact, coming from the
valve train. A clicky noise usually indicates a faulty cam follower or cam
lobe. However, excessively worn rockers and rocker bushings can interfere
with proper valve adjustment and can leave a clickity-clickity noise. A
renewed rocker shaft can cost $200 or so. The proper valve adjustment for
an 18GK engine is 0.015" HOT. BTW, oversize cam followers are probably not
available -- I've never heard of such an item (although it does make sense)
in my 30 years of MGing.

Hope this points you in the right direction to find the noise!

FAST FORWARD!
EngineDe-toxing Mr. Twist,

I recently purchased a copy of your excellent Technical Manual and
enjoyed
reading the many informative articles. I have a question concerning the
article
on "De-Toxing" the MGB engine. I have been cautioned by an experienced
mechanic
that blanking of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve could possibly result
in
overheating problems in some parts of an engine. I was wondering if you
have
ever experienced this problem in a de-toxed MGB engine?

Also, as part of a complete engine and transmission overhaul that I
am
engaged in, I have purchased a Transmission / Overdrive unit from MG Cosas
in
Texas. My intention is to salvage a few needed internal transmission / OD
parts
that are no longer in production or available from Moss Motors. I would
like to
offer the remaining parts to someone who could put them to use, and I was
wondering if you might have a need for them at University Motors?

Thanks for your time and consideration.

John McCarthy

JOHN!

The EGR valves ALWAYS leak into the intake manifold -- so blocking
it off can only assure you that the mixture is not leaning out at idle.
You'll find that you can tap the original Stromberg, combination manifold
with a 1/4 NPT taper pipe tap and fit a 1/4 NPT allen set screw -- this
looks better than a condenser or bolt hanging on the end of a hose (which
will then leak). Also, you'll find that 7/16-20 allen set screws look good
in the air injection ports in the cylinder head. Anyway, I , personally, am
convinced that the car runs better without all those leaking
"anti-pollution" hoses and fittings.

I would be pleased to receive any extra OD parts you have -- we do a
fair number of OD rebuilds here at the shop.
I have attached a step by step for the all synchro gearbox -- but it's for
the STD box, not the OD (I think). We use this in our technical seminars in
February.

Thanks again!

SAFETY FAST!
EngineDesmoggingDear John,

I've been following your desmogging how-to and have a couple of
questions about the vent lines leading to the cannisters (and removing
the cans). My B is an 80.

Is it okay to plug the fuel tank vent line way back in the trunk if I
drill a small hole in the underside of the gas cap?

Plugging the vent off the top of the valve cover will not cause any
harmful effects to the engine. True or false?

About the third vent line--the one off my Zenith carb. Surely you can't
just plug that one can you? Won't it upset the proper function of the
thing, such as it is? I've heard about fuel backing up in that line and
getting right into the cannisters.

Thanks for all the help to so many over the years.

pete in Toronto

ps: The four 7/16 by 1 inch bolts that I used to plug the air manifold
holes on the block stick out pretty far, a la the Frankenstein monster's
neck. How come you suggest 1 inch and not shorter? Just curious. Would
it work to braze fill the original screws?

DEAR PETE!

I should really update that "desmogging" article. We've used
7/16-20 x 1/2 socket set screws for years -- they give a nice flush
appearance.

DO NOT remove the charcoal canisters! There is no need to remove
the expansion tank can in the boot, either! Ensure that all the lines are
in good condition! The original factory fuel lines and evaporative lines
rupture lengthwise without warning, so you're best advised to change ALL of
them (except for the formed hoses between the anti run-on valve and the
charcoal adsorption canisters).

Leave ALL the ELC (Evaporative Loss Control) lines in place
underbonnet! This system keeps the inside of the engine clean and allows
you to shut the car off without it dieseling. Leave all the PCV (Positive
Crankcase Ventilation) lines in place for the same reason.

So, only remove the air pump, the air injection manifold, the gulp
valve. Blocking off the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve is helpful,
and soldering shut the spring loaded button on the throttle disc will assist
a more speedy de-celeration.

Hope this helps!
EngineStarter Pinion & Flywheel Meshed TogetherGreetings John!

You may recall that I am the one who bought Barry Rutheiser's '53 TD about
a
year ago, and I have been enjoying it a great deal--until about 3:00 this
afternoon.

While trying to start it, the starter pinion and flywheel seem to have
gotten meshed together. I thought that the "cure" for this was to put the
car in gear and roll it forward. I am able to get the car into gear, but
I
seem to not be able to get the car to move when I push it. I can only get
it to rock back and forth.

I realize that this is a question you've probably answered many, many
times
before for stupid newbie owners like myself, but I am hoping that you
might
be willing to help me out with some advice as to what to do next. Help!!!

Thanks very much!

Dennis Leipold

DENNIS!

You've got the right idea but the wrong direction!! Change the
gearlever into FOURTH gear and push the car BACKWARDS about three feet.
This will unscrew the starter pinion from the flywheel ring gear teeth.
Pushing the car forward only makes the condition worse, and can bend the
starter armature. Hope this helps!
EngineHand CrankHello, do have a decent hand crank for my 55 TF ???. Thanks , Dave
Cates /POR/xpeg/2527/hde43/8678

DAVE!

Sorry, no I do not. Try Bill Hinkle in North Carolina, Gerry Goguen
at Abingdon Spares, Ship Kelsey at Shadetree Auto in California,
www.mgcars.org.uk, or run an ad in TSO, British Car, Safety Fast, Enjoying
MG, MG Enthusiast, or MG WORLD. Good luck!
EngineSeats, Unlocking Seized EngineHello John:
I am currently restoring a MGA and have Deluxe Seats for it. Do you know
whether standard seat rails fit the deluxe seats? I looked in a 1600 parts
book and it did not seem to have a separate listing for seat rails for
Deluxe
Seats.
Also, I have acquired a Twin Cam that had sat in a barn for ten + years.
The
hydraulics are shot, of course, and the engine is locked up. Do you know
of
any trick way to unlock a seized engine. I realize that the rings are
probably shot but I wanted to get the car running and driving before I did
extensive restoration work on it. Any suggestions? The car itself looks to
be
in really good shape and would be considered a nice "driver" if it were
running!
Sorry to hear that you are no longer doing your "summer party."
I did get to go to one of them a few years ago (without my car) and really
enjoyed it.
Thanks for everything you do to promote the MG marque.
Sincerely,
Brian Findley

BRIAN!

The method we've used successfully in 100% of the "frozen engines"
with which we've had to free up -- except for the last which was a horribly
rusty MG Midget 1500 -- is this:

Remove the plugs and drool in diesel fuel, WD40, Marvel Mystery Oil,
Breakaway -- some sort of penetrating solvent.
Then, strip off the starter motor, carbs, maybe the dynamo so that the
entire right hand side of the engine is exposed. Use a LONG prybar (we
purchase ours from the tool man -- they look like GIANT screwdrivers), and
work between the rear engine bearing plate and the flywheel teeth, trying to
move the engine clockwise or anti-clockwise. Once you get it to move, even
a little bit, you're nearly home free. Rotate the engine completely, by
hand, maybe twice. Then, with a chain, rope, or strap, tow the car at 20mph
in second or third gear. By the time you've towed it a mile, the engine
will be free enough to turn by hand! Then, reassemble, start it up and
drive it for several hundred miles to free up the rings.

As I wrote before, if you need more info, call me at home.
EngineOil CoolerJohn:

Even though I have a very able mechanic Peter McCarthy of Midnight Auto
Inc. who
has rebuilt my MGB engine. It seems to be running well to date. I do have
some
questions and hope you will reply. I look on you as the ultimate
repository of
knowledge for MGB's. As you know during the rebuild it was decided not to
reinstall old oil cooler for a few reasons sledge from old engine and
advisement
from mechanic (Peter) that it is not needed due to quality of today's
oils. Will
not having a oil cooler effect the engine temperature? i.e. water and
engine
temperature. I drove my car over the weekend (10/31/99) and the
water/engine
temperature was above 190 degrees at 201 degrees. Is this normal? I don't
want
to over heat engine and burn it up.

Oh by the why, the compression ratio has been increased from 8:5:1~9:4:1.
Please advise as soon as possible. Can I buy a larger radiator? I am
having
troulbe with my techometer (negative ground) and speedometer. Do you
rebuild
them? What are the cost?

Paul M. Brown

Paul!

If you have very few miles on the rebuild (under 1000), then expect
a higher running temperature in the beginning as there is so much more
friction during the run-in time. I believe, as does your mechanic, that the
oil coolers offer no great advantage. However, the high compression of your
engine will result in MORE HEAT produced if you continue to burn low octane
fuel. So, purchase that 92 or 94 stuff at those inflated prices -- as your
engine really needs something around 100 octane to run well. Remember that
of all that gasoline you purchase, only about 1/3 is converted to power, and
some 2/3 is expelled in heat. A mismatch of compression and octane
exacerbates that problem. You can purchase octane enhancers -- but they
only last a short time in the tank (they are lightweight, volatile compounds
that boil away at atmospheric pressure). On the other hand, I'd wait until
you've got a solid 1000 miles on the engine before making any dramatic
changes in anything. Remember, too, that those gauges are not always
accurate, despite their precision.

There are a number of potential problems with the tach (wiring,
power, earth, and ignition system changes), as with the speedo (90 degree
drive unit, cable, speedo, and speedo gears). Without knowing more, it is
too soon to call for a rebuild of the gauges themselves. However, use
Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck, NY.

Hope this helps.
Engine'69 MGB-GT fuel hoses; oil cooler hose Hello, and thanks for your tech manual. I have the 18GH eng. Is it
preferable to replace the braided fuel hoses (from the "T" to the carbs)
with regular nitrile/neoprene hoses? And any comments re installing a
fuel filter in the eng compartment?

The Moss catalog and Bentley manual, p. 453, show the oil hose from rear
eng block connected to the RHS fitting on the oil cooler. Does it
matter that PO installed hose from eng block to the LHS/driver's side of
the oil cooler?

Kent

KENT!

You can use the braided fuel lines and the modern neoprene hoses
interchangeably. The neoprene are the right price. The braided look best.

It make no difference which way the oil travels through the oil
cooler! If you have the opportunity, slacken those fittings and coat them
with ANTI-SEIZE so that, in the distance future, they're come apart! If
they do not want to turn, don't force them or you'll wreck them. There is a
neat way to get them loose, though.

You'll need your torch and a bucket of cold water and a couple of
handfuls of rags. Soak the rags in the water. Heat the joint between the
hose and the oil cooler with your torch until the nut just starts blowing
some red in the flame (not red from junk burning away, but a minute later
when it's REALLY hot). Then, hand the torch to your assistant, collect as
many rags as you can in both hands, and quench the heated joint as quickly
and as thoroughly as possible. Now the nut will spin off the cooler,
virtually by hand!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
EngineRemoval of Emissions Equipment Hello John, My name is Rich Bartner and I am the new owner of a like-new
1980
MGB roadster which I've just purchased here in Florida. My question is:
Can
the emissions hardware factory installed on the engine, be removed and
replaced by either OEM or aftermarket parts to upgrade the performance and
improve the appearance and serviceability of the engine? Is there any
written
material describing what and how? Do you know of any shops which could
undertake this conversion, and the approximate cost? Am I better off
thinking
about a Rover V8 conversion? I know I've thrown many questions all at
once,
and I apologize for that, but I do want to seriously think about this
point.
Regards, and thank you, Rich Bartner

RICH!

RICH!

You want to join the North American MGB Register -- 1-800-NAMGBR-1
as a nearly first step in your ownership of that 1980 MGB! Also, visit
www.mgcars.org.uk as that site is SO good, and it links to nearly every
other MG site around!

About that emission control equipment: Your car will run better
without it; it will look better, underbonnet without it; and the chances of
underbonnet fire will be greatly reduced with it missing. It is a violation
of Federal Law for a mechanic to remove it, but the whole job shouldn't cost
you over $60. You can remove it yourself with your Craftsmen tools
(remember, nearly the WHOLE car is American thread). I have a technical
book for $30 postpaid, which among some 250 pages, details the removal.

A V8 conversion is nice, but expect to pay around $10,000 for the
job. I'd try the emission equipment removal first!

Call during my technical hour: 1-2pm EST Monday-Friday for more
advice!

SAFETY FAST!
John Twist, Service Manager
EnginePistonsWhy are the pistons marked "front"

Some pistons have the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) hole offset to effectively give the engine a longer stroke. These pistons have an arrow and must be fitted with the arrow pointed towards the front. Most of our pistons are not made in this manner. The oil hole is pointed AWAY from the cam and is designed to oil the underside of the piston.
Hope this helps!
SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
EngineTwin Cam crank measurements Hi John:

As requested, this is a quick reminder to ask you to please take the
measurements on the Twin Cam crank presently for sale on ebay:

Steve! Remind me again in case your request ends up where some of my
"memories" go -- I'll try to do that tomorrow for you. You know, Lyle
York
knew a guy who made an MGB 5 main twin cam using all Twin Cam parts but
added that nose on the crank.

I have been in contact with this person, he being Bill Spohn form the
northwest US; Washington, maybe? Anyway, he did build up such an engine,
with a 5-main MGB block and cross-drilled / nitrided crank, and the
balance
being Twin Cam. Bill wanted a large capacity and strong crank for racing
purposes. Since I'm building a street engine, and since I wanted an
original appearance, Bill recommended that I find a 1622 block and crank.
I
found a nice set, it passed the magnaflux test, so I'm now accumulating
the
Twin Cam bits and saving for the machine work in a few years.

Well, thanks in advance for taking the measurements.

Regards,
Steve Johnson

From the rear side of the front main bearing:

First Diameter (the main bearing)
Ends 1.520 from rear
2.000 diameter

Second Diameter
Ends 3.174 from rear
1.749 diameter

Third Diameter
Ends 4.257 from rear
1.489 diameter and keyed

Fourth Diameter (front pulley)
Ends 5.620 from rear
1.125 diameter and keyed

Hope this helps.
EngineMidget Blown Head Gasket John,

I recently Rebuilt 75 Midget 1500 Engine (Calif low comp dished pistons)
inlcuding
head. Weber carb....runs fine for few month or so and then blows head
gasket between 1&2 (twice). I checked block "deck" and head with
steel straight edge and appears flat. I initally torque as per spec and
then re-torque after 500 miles.

My next thought is to mill the head just in case it is the
culprit. I used stock gasket and copper spray sealant. If milling is the
right thing...how much can I take off? Also..any sources for better
gasket?

Maybe not related, but I put several thousand miles on this engine
before rebuild and even though the valve guides were worn causing
heavy oil consumption(I replaced them and ground valve/seats),
everything else "miked" out dead in middle of specs including
cylinders.

I'll try to call you tomorrow from work.
Cheers! Dave Testerman

DAVE!

The problem is simply a warped head or a warped block. Hope that
it's the former!! I would have the head surfaced (the shop might have to
remove 0.005 or 0.010" or so to ensure a flat surface). There are two types
of head gaskets, but the earlier ones simply don't work at all, so I don't
think that's your problem. The surfacing should do the trick!

SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
Engine'79 B Cylinder Head John,

I have a '79 MGB with 62,000 miles. As far as I know, the cylinder head
has never been removed or serviced. I am in the process of removing the
intake/exhaust manifold to fix a vacuum leak. (I found the leak using
info from your 2000 edition of the UML Technical Book. Thanks.)

What's the likelihood that the head could use preventive maintenance or
other service after 21 years and 62,000 miles? I'll only be 11 bolts
away from pulling it off. The last time I checked the hot compression
(10,000 miles ago) it was not low: 1155 dry, 190 wet (with a shot of
oil), 2150 dry, 195 wet, 3 145 dry, 185 wet, 4 145 dry, 185 wet. I
was a little puzzled at the readings because the spec is 130 psi. I got
similar readings with a different gauge.

Thanks for any help,

Tony Campbell
Tony Campbell


Tony! Try that compression test before you go further! Although it's not
possible to warm up the engine at this time, if the figures exceed 10% in
variation, then adjust the valves and try it again. The valve clearance is
0.013" HOT, so I'd adjust them about 0.014" COLD. Don't worry about the
actual pressure readings -- about 150 is a good figure. Gauges are
different; the speed of the engine is a factor -- just look for a max of
10%. If you find that the adjusted valves give a difference of greater than
10%, then it's time to remove the head. When you do decide to have the
valve job, have the machine shop fit hardened seats, umbrella oil seals,
silicone bronze valve guides (allowing 0.002" working clearance), along with
a crack check and valve job. You DON'T need exotic valves -- the factory
ones are just fine. Expect to pay around $400 for all this work on the
head.

Hope this helps!

SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
EngineValve ticking noise A few miles back, my 69B developed a valve ticking noise when under load.
If I'm in third or fourth gear and start going up a hill, I get this
ticking sound. Some advice from friends sugggested an ignition problem.
Gave the car a good tune up (cap, rotor, points, condensor, plugs, wires,
oil, filter, and air filter), reset the timing, tuned the carb. It now
starts and idles better than ever. But the tick persists. It now also
appears if I'm driving along at mid throttle and then suddenly let off the
gas. The oil pressure stays around 55-60, I assume the gauge is
functioning. Should I be considering a new oil pump or clogged strainer?




You very well have sorted this out -- I apologise for the long delay
answering; my computer was down and I got soooo far behind!

Ticks in the engine are caused by: valve lash (but that's regardless of
acceleration/deceleration/free-float); spark knock (acceleration) -- test by
changing the timing (retard it by 10 degrees); faulty rod bearings (clatters
on heavy acceleration only, quickly develops into a KNOCK); faulty wrist
pins (usually ticky on deceleration).

I've enclosed an article I wrote some time ago that may be helpful. Let me
know what you found!

John
Enginecrankshaft nuthi, do you know what is the socket size for crankshaft nut? I have a 32mm that is to small and 36mm that is to big. thank you very much.
my e-mail is

Use a 1 5/16" socket. Remember, this car has very, very few metric threads!
EngineThreading Oil Galley Passage Holes for Pipe PlugsDear John,

There is currently a thread on the MG Enthusiast's BBS, MGB Technical, concerning the threading of the oil galley holes, normally plugged with a brass plug, for use with a pipe plug. This is mentioned in your Technical Book, but not in any depth nor with any real information about the process. Would you be so kind as to post a response on the BBS. Thanks, Les Bengtson

Les!

The two "main" oil galleries must be opened and cleaned, no matter what type of cleaning you plan to do -- caustic soda or baking. Drill out the brass plugs on the front (or rear) then use a long shaft or rod to tap out the plugs from the other end. You can re-use the two plugs you've saved -- at the BACK of the block. The front of the two galleries should be tapped 1/4" NPT, then we use socket set screws. Careful use of the tap allows the plug to sit just under the surface of the block.

If you are to bake the block, then the machine shop will probably want to shot peen it to clean off all the ash. Now you need to remove ALL, ALL, ALL the brass plugs. Let me explain just where they are:

Rear of block -- two on main gallery, one on gallery from oil pump to diagonal feed. Tap the last (or all three) 1/4" NPT.

Top of Block -- None

Front of Block -- two on main galleries -- tap 1/4" NPT

Bottom of Block -- two at oil pressure relief valve. Tap these 1/8" NPT. Mark these holes so that you replace the plugs in the correct location -- wrong gets you ZERO oil pressure or 400 psi!

Right side of Block -- 5 main has two plugs under the distributor boss; all have a plug for the cross drilling from the cam to the chain tensioner. Tap these 1/8" NPT.

Left side of Block -- the large brass plug at the bottom of the distributor drive gear need not be removed -- but clean this THOROUGHLY!! There may be another small plug on this side for the camshaft oiling -- 1/8" NPT.

Run the NPT tap into the hole about 1/2 down the threads, then test fit the pipe plug. Do this again and again until the top of the plug sits BELOW the surface of the block on those holes which have a plate on top (front, rear, bottom).

I hope this helps you out a little bit!!

John

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
EngineRe: MG Q&AJohn,
Can you give me a "rough idea" of how much you would charge for an engine rebuild (major short block and head, new pistons etc.) assuming you dont find a cracked crank, cracked block or head etc.. This is the 1950 xpag 1250 engine serial number lhx 1643. I did run this car on the road before I tore it apart and it had no unusuall sounds. It did blow some oil past the rings when cold. The transmission worked well but does need seals etc. so I need you to "go through" it as well as the clutch and pressure plate (I have new clutch disc and roller throw out bearing and springs. The biggest issue here is that it will need to be in show condition so the cosmetics are a big deal and I prefer to do that myself. If you could short block it and refurbish the head and go through the trans and clutch I can do the rest. I do want the upgraded Moss seals to prevent oiling up the chassis and clutch. I would bring the engine and trans to your shop and pick it up when done. Again, I ask for a rough idea only of the cost and would not hold you to any pre discussed price estimates.

Awaiting your kind reply,

Dallas A. Cook

Dallas!

Your letter arrived a couple of days after my father passed away. That, coupled with the rush of the holidays left your important questions unanswered. I would be pleased to give you some prices -- unless you've given up on me and have already found another shop.

The first thing is, we can make it RIGHT! The second thing is, we can make it look GREAT -- BEAUTIFUL, in fact.

The engine, complete, is easily $4500 -- but some of this depends on the condition of various components. The gearbox is easily $900 -- to rebuild the box with new bearings, needles, seals and gaskets -- and to make it BEAUTIFUL. Also, in that $900 is enough to rebush the bell housing and the main case, if necessary.

Again, my apologies for the long delay in answering. If you're still interested, just write back. I'm getting close to catching up on my older emails and have been answering the new ones each day.

John
Engine1976 MGB - losing oil Also, I just had the engine rebuilt on my '76 B. I recently took it for a
50 or so mile trek that had me going up a mountain twice...not a steep
mountain, but one that i could still run it in 4th gear comfortably. when i
got back, the oil level was down about 1/2 - 3/4 of a quart. the engine has
less than 2,500 miles since the rebuild. the rebuild consisted of new
pistons, rings, oil pump, valves , the whole works...a basic complete
engine rebuild. i did not, however, put the Felpro SS70373 umbrella oil
seals on the car that you mention in your tech tips page. Do you think that
it would be a good idea to install them now? If so, how much do you sell
them for and would you be able to provide a tech sheet for my mechanic so
they would be installed properly? or, aren't they that difficult to
install?
Bill Etter

BILL!

It is not uncommon for a freshly rebuilt engine to consume more oil
than it "should" -- but this condition eventually disappears as the rings
bed in. I doubt the problem you have is caused by the lack of valve
seals -- but it IS possible to fit them. Follow this: Remove the rocker
assy, remove the rockers and retorque to the cylinder head. Remove the
plugs. Either pressurise the each cylinder in succession with air -- or --
feet rope into the cylinder when the piston is at BDC, then rotate the
engine until the rope is pushed up against the bottom of the valves. Use a
pair of long screwdrivers to lever the collet retaining plate down, remove
the collets (keepers), remove the plate, and the spring(s). Use the
prophylactic in the valve seal kit, use a lot of grease, and fit the
umbrella seal. Then, reassemble.

If your car was in our shop, I would charge three hours to do this
job ($180) plus the parts. Good luck!

John
EngineMGA 1500 Rear Main Cap (Broken Crank)Hi John,

We've met before at Namgar events and you've helped with a few questions in the past. Here's my situation and question.

My crank (MGA 1500) just broke beneath the rear main cap. The cap was ruined but the block appears to be okay (visually).

My first reaction was to try to locate another cap, then it dawned on me that due to necessary alignment these were probably line-bored, and thus unique to each engine. Is there anything I can do to save the block as the rest of the engine is in top condition? I was thinking it may be possible to get a replacement cap, then bore all three mains oversize. I have never seen bearings, however, that were oversized in their outer diameter. Any thoughts? Hope all is well.

Best Regards,

Greg Snooks

Greg!

The cap truly is part of the block and the rule is that you cannot switch caps, block to block. Consider that you have to completely disassemble the engine anyway and that fixing a cap to the rear main requires at least an align bore. Consider that anyone who will sell you a rear main cap will loose any value in the block he has. So, it's probably easier to get another block. You'll still want to have it aligned bored or align honed -- and you'll have to fit cam bearings and have the bores changed to meet your pistons. It's an expensive operation no matter how you look at it!

Remember that 1500 and 1600 cranks are the same, whether they're from MGAs or Nash Metropolitans! Those new ones offered by Moss are products from India, and you may find that an original one is a better piece.

Hope this helps.

John
EngineThreading Oil Galley Passage Holes for Pipe PlugsDear John,

There is currently a thread on the MG Enthusiast's BBS, MGB Technical, concerning the threading of the oil galley holes, normally plugged with a brass plug, for use with a pipe plug. This is mentioned in your Technical Book, but not in any depth nor with any real information about the process. Would you be so kind as to post a response on the BBS. Thanks, Les Bengtson



Les!

The two "main" oil galleries must be opened and cleaned, no matter what type of cleaning you plan to do -- caustic soda or baking. Drill out the brass plugs on the front (or rear) then use a long shaft or rod to tap out the plugs from the other end. You can re-use the two plugs you've saved -- at the BACK of the block. The front of the two galleries should be tapped 1/4" NPT, then we use socket set screws. Careful use of the tap allows the plug to sit just under the surface of the block.

If you are to bake the block, then the machine shop will probably want to shot peen it to clean off all the ash. Now you need to remove ALL, ALL, ALL the brass plugs. Let me explain just where they are:

Rear of block -- two on main gallery, one on gallery from oil pump to diagonal feed. Tap the last (or all three) 1/4" NPT.

Top of Block -- None

Front of Block -- two on main galleries -- tap 1/4" NPT

Bottom of Block -- two at oil pressure relief valve. Tap these 1/8" NPT. Mark these holes so that you replace the plugs in the correct location -- wrong gets you ZERO oil pressure or 400 psi!

Right side of Block -- 5 main has two plugs under the distributor boss; all have a plug for the cross drilling from the cam to the chain tensioner. Tap these 1/8" NPT.

Left side of Block -- the large brass plug at the bottom of the distributor drive gear need not be removed -- but clean this THOROUGHLY!! There may be another small plug on this side for the camshaft oiling -- 1/8" NPT.

Run the NPT tap into the hole about 1/2 down the threads, then test fit the pipe plug. Do this again and again until the top of the plug sits BELOW the surface of the block on those holes which have a plate on top (front, rear, bottom).

I hope this helps you out a little bit!!

John



EngineMG Rocker Arm BushingsJohn, I am preparing to have 2 sets of rockers rebushed 1 "A" & 1 "B". I have noticed that the B has only one oil hole and the A has two with the one requiring the rivet to be drilled out. Is it necessary to use both holes or did the factory decide the one is enough as the B? It look as if the second hole is lubing the pushrod tip.
Thanks,
Scott Shirk
TX

SCOTT!

The earlier set of rockers is drilled so that oil can move from the shaft over to the top of the pushrod. It obviously oils the pushrod BETTER than the later style. All throughout production small changes were made when it was realized that the original designs were too expensive (and unnecessary) to continue. This is one of those "changes" that was not an improvement -- the older ones ARE better!

John
EngineEGR ValvesRecently the EGR valve on my 76 Midget failed. So I blocked the vacuum line and went on my way till I could find a replacement. But there seem to be none available. The same EGR is used on the Spitfire and TR8 I believe. Do you know of a source for replacements or where I could find a suitable diaphram to replace the one in mine that has disintegrated? Surely someone makes these or rebuilds them but if so I haven't been able to locate them using the Internet. What do folks who drive their cars in states with strict emission laws do if critical emission parts aren't available? Steve Olson

Steve!

The EGR valve has little or no effect on performance -- it is nearly completely an emissions related "add-on" so you won't run poorly because it's now inoperative. If you fail an emissions test, then, yes, you can probably find one. I might have a good used one. But fitting these things is problemsome. I think you'll find everything is just fine the way it is right now.

John
EngineRe-Torque on Heads

John
I am under the impression that a "C" head should be retorqued after a hundred miles or so. Once the initial torque is set at 75lbs. What is the correct procedure. Obviously the sequence of torque should be followed. But do you loosen all and then re-torque or does one just check that they have not moved?
Also should the threads be lubricated on the studs before fitted to the block?
Ed


Ed!

To ensure a consistent force at the cylinder head stud, each nut and stud must have the same resistance to turn -- hence I wire wheel and oil the studs before fitting them. I run them, oiled, into the block to about 5 lb-ft, and then torque the head in an ascending pattern of 10 - 20 - 30 - 40 - and finally 50 lb-ft on the MGB. The factory calls for 55 lb-ft, but that's a dry torque (and I've snapped studs at 55#) so I go just a bit lower. I would stop at 70 on the MGC. The retorque, done so soon after the running-in, would not require loosening, re-oiling, and torquing -- I would simply pull the studs down to the proper torque (in this case 75) in the spiral pattern in the workshop manual. I hope this helps!

Hope this helps!

John
EngineMG TD Oil and OdometerJohn:
I recently purchased a 1951 TD that was restored about 10 years ago.
The guages were refurbished in England about four years ago and showed 300 miles when I bought the car. After driving this year for about 500 miles I noticed oil obscurring the trip odometer. Oil was coming up the speedo cable and dripping inside the housing and showing up on the lower mounted trip odometer. The level of oil in the trans is not too high, and I am baffled. Any thoughts?
Sandy Bates

Sandy!

The problem lies not in your gauge or in the speedo cable, but in the speedo drive at the gearbox. The gearbox oil must be slipping between the speedo pinion and its housing. You'll want to remove these pieces from the gearbox, then polish the shaft of the pinion gear. Or, you may want to find another housing and gear. You could also, of course, drill a very small hole 3/32? through the bottom of the housing, just in front of the speedo cable, to allow the oil to drain onto the ground -- rather than work up the cable -- but that's the only $1.00 solution I can think of.

John
EngineMotor UpgradeHi John,

I have the opportunity to purchase a 1955 MG-TF 1500 without a engine or transmission. I have a 1967 MGB parts car with the engine and o/d trans in good condition. Is putting the B engine and trans into the TF a possibility? Do you have any knowledge or is there a website or printed material with information on how to do this or am I flying by the seat of my pants?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely, Jim Hearne

Jim!

You will not have to re-invent the wheel on this project, but it will be tedious. Your first step is to find some people who have this combination in their TD/TF, who have done the work themselves, and can offer you tips, hints, etc. You might find someone through the internet, but more likely through the New England MG T Register. Try them at: www.nemgt.org.

You know, when it's done, it won't be worth as much as a "real" TF, no matter how nice you make it. If you really want a TF, wait for a complete one.

John
EngineReplacing My Crank PulleyJohn,
At GT-25 it became necessary to replace my crank pulley on my MGA 1600. The only available replacement was from an MGB. I asked you about the feasibility of that; and you said keep the B pulley on the engine: it would be better for the car.

Now I can not set the timing of the motor. Is it necessary to install a B timing chain cover? If not, please advise about setting the timing. What preventative actions should I take while this tear-down occurs?

What strobe setting should I use?

Les Bari and his two younger daughters have become a 4 MG family: 1500 A, chrome B, C tourer, rubber B. They say Hello to you and yours.

Safety Fast!

Jeff Fields

Jeff!

Sorry for the delay!

You must have fitted a pulley from the 18V engines (with the timing mark at 11:00 instead of 6:00). I measured this the other day, and I think I remember that the distance, along the circumference was seven inches from that 11:00 mark back down to the 6:00 position. I would set the timing at 7 degrees BTDC static, or about 20 BTDC at idle (800).

If you fit a later MGB front cover (with matching timing marks) you'll not only be able to time the car from above!!!! but you'll have the advantage of a rear mounted rubber seal! (Remember to fit the newer splash shield with this cover).

Best to you and Les! My daughter (16) has use of her uncle's 73 Mallard Green MGB; and my son (14) has a 1971 MGB/GT of his own which he's working on.

John
EngineEngines for '57 MGAJohn,

In your opinion, which year mgb 5main engine would you think is the better? I am looking to place this in my 57 A
I have heard stories of austin marina engines fitted into certain mgb from the factory. These engines I hear are not as sturdy as mgb. www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcc/sf/990303.htm
I am seeking reliability as well as performance. Also, I have read and heard so many different opinions on engine swaps I do not know which is right. If you could point me to some successful swaps, I would be in your debt.

First of all, consider originality -- your 1500 engine is the better engine for your car from that standpoint and requires no changes to anything!

Then, consider the 1800 G or GA engine -- the three main MGB engine. This has the increased displacement and will fit right into your car, needing only the rear engine backing plate changed to the one that was on the original engine.

The 1800 GB (and newer) engine is the better engine, no question, but it requires a lot of fiddling: You have to take YOUR rear engine plate and have it opened up to accept the rear seal for the 1800 MGB engine (the opposite side of that is the engine won't leak oil from the rear main!). Then, you need a flywheel from a 1965-1967 MGB (this one has the correct ring gear for your car). Then you have to get the tachometer from that same MGB (65-67) and fit it in place of your rev counter, as the later MGB engines do not have a tachometer take off.

The Marina engines use a MUCH smaller input shaft than the MGBs, plus their sumps are on an angle because the Marina engines were fitted nose up in those sedans (plus, where are you going to find a Marina engine?)

You can run an 1800 five main crank in a 1800 three main block and use the lighter con rods and lighter (better) pistons.

Again, I'd rebuild the 1500.

John
Engine1977 MGB Emission Testing in Arizona John:
Have reviewed your Q & A's. Like to ask this question. I have a 1977
MGB.
Have owned since 1988 and is quite nicely restored. I moved to Arizona
and
now must pass Phoenix emissions. I have all the emissions gear on the car
and all seems to be working. I have had the Carburetor apart twice in
last
2 weeks checking needles, O rings, floats, etc. This work was done by a
Carb shop on the bench. The spark plugs, wires and rotor were changed.
Problem is at idle the car will not pass CO and/or HC. It is close. Az
requires Idle HC of 250 and CO of 2.20 for my year MGB. My car is
presently at 243 for HC and 3.65 for CO. Problem is when we adjust the
lean/rich with the adjusting tool, the numbers swing the other way and CO
will be good but HC is not.
The mechanic I use is using a CO analyzer but not certain how reliable it
is.

The catalytic converter is on the car but is probably original and has
nothing in it. It is a straight pipe. My guess is this will impact the
HC
reading out the tail pipe no matter how lean/rich the Carb gets set? Also
it is noted that the oil does not seem to stay in the dashpot very long.
not sure where it goes.
The upside is this car has run very well for the last 14 years and has
received much TLC but new need to get by the AZ. emissions requirements.
Any insight you can provide will be appreciated by all of us who have MG's
in Maricopa county, Az.
Thanks. Happy New Year
Carl Mitchell


Carl!

Of course, the gub'mint doesn't want your car to run well, it wants
it to pollute correctly at idle. What to do?

The car runs better with advanced timing at idle -- but for
emissions, make sure the vacuum advance is NOT working at idle. Make
certain you have FRESH oil -- heavier rather than lighter weight. In some
cases, you can block off the hose from the front tappet inspection cover to
the carb by inserting a ball bearing into the hose (not to be seen).
Usually, lean out the mixture as much as you can.

We don't have those stupid emission control laws here in Michigan,
so I have little first hand experience with setting these things up -- what
I've told you is about all I know.

When YOU get it sorted out, write back and tell me what you found so
that when the next person writes, I have something to say.

BTW -- I've included my Stromberg article for your interest!

Happy New Year!

John

EngineZB Magnette Oil Pressure & Effect
John,
After the rebuild of the 1500 engine in my ZB Magnette I am now
experiencing
engine oil pressure of 80psi @ speed and 50psi @idle. My
concern is this - I am losing oil thru the "slinger" oil return at the rear
of
the engine which in turn leaks out thru the bottom of the trans. housing
(small hole with cotter pin). Research shows that this engine as provided
from
the factory would produce 50psi @ speed and 15-25psi @ idle. From your
experience is the oil return system on these engines adequate enough to
handle
the pressure I described? If not how can I reduce the pressure so as to stop
the oil being lost? Also if you have any other ideas or recommendations
concerning this situation I would greatly appreciate any or all input.

Thank you very much,
Ed
I wonder what you've done to reduce the oil leaking. Were you
successful?

When we rebuild a three main B series engine, we always have the
bottom end of the engine align bored (or align honed). This ensures that
the groove on the crank is concentric with the hole at the rear main. Once
the engine is together, any fitting is impossible.

You can reduce the oil pressure by working with the oil pressure
relief valve at the left rear of the block. Either remove the shims,
shorten the spring, or weaken the spring. But, I'd suffer some oil leaking
rather than dropping the OP.

There is no easy oil recovery system I know. BUT, there is a rear
seal available through Peter Alberda of Zeeland, Michigan. Peter has a rear
seal that WORKS!

Hope to see you this year!

John

EngineUmbrella Sleeves
John,

I met you at the recent GOF in St Augustine, FL - I have the yellow TC
that
was fogging for mosquitoes during your rolling tech session. You
mentioned
umbrella seals for the valves but didn't have a NAPA part number handy.
Do
you have it available now?

Thanks,

Gene Gillam
Gene!

I've just rediscovered your note. The Felpro number is SS 72522.
Hope this helps at this late date!

John

EngineOil Leak in Engine Block
John,
How would you like to hear another MG adventure. I recently started up a
TD
that had the engine rebuilt several years ago. Went through the start-up
sequence to make sure I had oil coming to the rocker, but was concerned
that
it took a long time to prime the pump and get oil to the upper engine. I
started the engine for a short run without water in the radiator and was
lucky I took this calculated risk. Within seconds oil began dripping from
the right side of the engine block. Shut down and started searching for
the
leak. I don't usually get excited about finding a leak with a new engine,
it's part of the process. However, this oil was coming out of the water
drain spigot on the right side of the block. This boggled my somewhat
frozen Alaskan mind. First thought was cracked block or head allowing oil
to seep into the water galleries.

First I pulled the cylinder head and began searching for answers. After
considerable time, I noticed oil in the two banana shaped water galleries
in
the rear of the block. Since these match the two on the back of the head,
I
looked harder at the head. Could not see anything that would cause a leak
until I removed the rectangular rear cover plate. It appears that the
machine shop had removed the set plug that fills the rear oil gallery
hole -
oil was coming up at 50psi and turning towards the rear of the cyl head
where it flowed freely out of this 1/4 inch hole and down into the water
gallery.

Using a proper thread pitch bolt, I cut it to proper length and notched
the
end with a Dremel. Put this in as a plug and replaced the cylinder head.
Now my problem was removing oil from the water gallery. First paint
thinner
was injected until it flowed freely from the water drain spigot, followed
by
hot soapy water, and finally flushed with just hot water. I have a well
oiled water system!!

Overall, I was lucky on two counts. I had not filled the radiator so I
didn't wind up with water and oil circulating throughout the engine, and
second, I had left the water drain tap open by mistake - otherwise we
would
have never noticed the oil dripping out of it.

Is this the first time you have heard of this gigantic screw-up?

Take care and thanks for your note. If ever in Alaska, stop by. I have
several MGs including two As, a TD, and a TF. We started a British Sports
Car club here in Anchorage, and after two years have almost 80 members.
It
is amazing what's up here. We have members with TAs, PBs, several Ts and
As, A-Healeys of every size, E-Jags and a pristine 120.


Sincerely, George
George!

This is the second time I've heard this story. The first was with a
fellow who didn't have the water pump installed and was getting oil running
from one of the bolt or stud holes where the pump mounts. He was certain he
had a cracked block. I kept talking to him and eventually hazarded upon the
cause of the problem -- same as yours! Good thing you had the drain open!

EngineSwap Front and End Plates in 76 and 68 Engines?I AM PUTTING A 1976 MGB EGINE INTO A 68 MGB. DO I SWAP FRONT AND END PLATES FROM THE 68 ENGINE ONTO THE 76 ENGINE?
THANKS,

JIM

Jim! Change the front plate only -- you might want to save the dual chain from the 68 and fit it to the 76 engine, but it's not necessary.

John
EngineRPM in MGCabout my 69 MGC. In first and second gear when I hit 3500rpm it seems to be starving for gas and begins to sputter. I can't get it to smooth out or go any faster. I've replaced the carb jets, pulled the choke at 3500rpm, played with timing etc. It doesn't seen to do it in 3 or 4 gear but id have to pay more attention while in third. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim
Jim!

You complain of sputtering at 3500rpm in 1st and 2nd. You are certain that this fault occurs at a certain rpm, NOT a certain road speed. I would imagine that you'd have the same problem in 3rd and 4th at 3500.

I do not believe the problem is fuel related -- rather ignition. I'd change the points, test the plug wires, clean the coil -- and test it --, and clean/replace the Champion spark plugs with RN9YC gapped at 0.035". Test the coil? Remove the plugs so the engine spins over quickly. Have your associate spin the engine with the key. Use your grounded test light and move the tip of the test light around the top of the coil -- inspecting for the intensity of the spark AND for tracks along the coil tower.

I'll put my bet on the ignition side of this problem. Let me know what you find out!

John
EngineConvert to a Tickford
I need some advice. I have two MG TAs, a '36 and a '38. The '36 is a
basket case and the '38 requires total restoration. A fellow that I bought
an engine and transmission from suggested that I convert one of these cars
to a Tickford. Is this a good idea? I know that some of the specialized
parts would be hard to find and probably very expensive, but would a built
up Tickford be worth the extra cost and effort? Also, do you do babbet
bearings, and if so what does it cost to rebabbet the mains and rods? Thank
you. William
William!

It is NEVER "worth" restoring an MG (or probably any car, for that
matter). If you want a nicely restored TA, go out and buy one -- you'll
have less time and money invested than re-doing your own. But ----- if you
love the process ---- well then, you're in our camp!

Creating a Tickford would be a tremendous job -- but there is a man
who has most of the parts -- a dentist from Horton, Michigan, phone 517 563
2740 / work 517 563 2314.

Expect to pay about $1200 to have the bearings poured for the three
mains, the cam, and the four rods!

John
Engine60A Timing Cover

Hello John, I am a friend and car club member with Jim Swenson at British Car Service INC. in Powhatan, VA. He told me if anyone would know the answer to this question it would be you. I have a 1960 MGA that I restored. I have found a timing cover to an MGB that I would like to install to reduce the oil leak from the cloth ring. My question would be in regard to the oil thrower. I have heard mixed opinions. One is that I can use the same thrower and the other is I should use one from an MGB. However when I call Moss or Jim looked in the part magazine the parts numbers are the same. It takes a bit to take everything off to get this done and I would rather not put it back together and find the thrower making noise because it hits the timing cover. What are your thoughts?

Mark!

There are several different varieties of front timing covers: Felt Seal, timing marks at 6:00; Rubber front fitting seal, timing marks at 6:00; Rubber rear fitting seal, timing marks at 6:00; Rubber rear fitting seal, timing marks at 11:00. Avoid the front fitting rubber seal -- they discovered those didn't work! The timing marks at 11:00 is the "best" cover, but should be fitted with a later, harmonic balancer with corresponding marks. In any case, you MUST use the later style of oil thrower with the rubber seal front covers. The earlier style will rub against the cover!

John
EngineEngine Rebuild
I took my dismantled 79 mgb engine to a machine shop this morning for
analysis. He is going to clean and then measure, then let me know what
is needed. Was told I needed replacement parts before boring and other
repairs could be done. Apparently he wants to custom fit pistons,
bearings etc. Does that make sense? Question #2, do you reccomend
particular manufacturers pistons, rings ,etc. Is it possible to buy a
reliable " lower engine rebuild kit"?

Thanks for your time Bob
Bob!

We purchase nearly all of our parts through Moss -- so I am not
aware of all the different parts sources you can use to get parts -- but
"custom" parts doesn't make any sense. I know that most machine shops can
order, right through their own suppliers, parts for the MGB engines. As he
is the one assembling the engine, he is the one who has to take
responsibility for the parts. On top of that, he supplements what he makes
with a little mark-up on the parts. Don't begrudge him that!

Nearly all of the pistons and bearings which we have purchased
through Moss have been high quality. Let your shop know that he can get
them directly from Moss.

When we perform an engine rebuild, we often include: cylinder head
work -- hardened seats, bronze-silicone guides, but standard valves!
Clutch, rod/main/thrust/cam bearings, pistons or rings, cam, lifters, chain,
tensioner, all gaskets and seals.

I've got a nice section in the Technical Book about the MGB engine.
If you're doing the work yourself, it may be very helpful!

John

EnginePiston Sizes The machinist suggested that he had seen ,as an example, +.030 pistons
come as +.029 and +.030, he wants to bore each cylinder to fit each
piston in that instance. That didn't sound quite right to me.

I am going to reassemble the engine the engine myself. I have the 97
version of your tec. manual and have used it in the past.

Again thanks and yours in Brit cars

Bob
Bob!

You'll notice on the top of the block there are numbers in diamonds
(rhombuses) -- these are the original size measurements to allow the factory
to fit corresponding sized pistons (which were also marked with their ten
thousandths oversize). I've not heard of a machinist doing this before. It
is a very delicate job -- he obviously knows what he's doing!

John


EngineLost screw in Engine?Dear John:

I have a 1974 MGB chrome bumper with the air pump and air manifold removed. I used setscrews to plug up the manifold holds.

While driving, suddenly I heard a loud tapping there was no change in the car's performance and at first I thought maybe I had hit something and created a hole in the exhaust system.

Home was about 15 minutes away and when I got there and investigated I found that one of the set screw, the first one, was not longer there and I'm assuming in has fallen into the engine.

What, if anything can I do?

Thanks

Butch

BUTCH! I believe you'll find that the plug fell OUT of the engine, not into it. The result is that there is now a hole from the exhaust into the engine bay -- that "tapping" sound which is really an exhaust sound. Simply fit another plug -- and tighten up those other three.

John
EngineOil FiltersIs there a way to convert a 68B paper filter to an inverted spin on filter?
all the kits I have seen only go up to 67

Tom
Tom!

Fit the top loading spin-on filter adaptor from a 1970 - 1980 MGB.

John
Engine80LEJohn I got my car apart last night from the fire, it was this way when I bought it, the exhaust manifold was cracked open about a 1/4 inch between the 1st and 2nd cylinder, what caused that and is that probably where the fire started ?
thanks
Ronald
Ron!

The casting on the manifolds was not good, and some of them continued to bend while "curing" on the engine blocks. Later in production -- about 1977, BL replaced that earlier manifold with a more durable one which included a very large boss for strengthening. You can purchase a new manifold; you can purchase a used manifold (I have one). When you install it make CERTAIN to strap the exhaust to the joint between the engine & gearbox!

That leak probably ignited the fire, but the fires were most often caused by a loose automatic choke assy which allowed raw gasoline to drip onto the catalytic converter. Once the choke came loose, the car would begin to run rich, which would cause the converter to glow red hot. Drip...Drip...Drip..... It's a wonder more did not incinerate!

John
EngineRocker Arm LubricationHello John - I've have been browsing through your tech tips and find them very informative. I have a newly aquired 1974 MGB. I have replaced the worn rocker arm shaft and rebushed the rockers. appear to have good oil flow to the pushrod ball and socket but no oil "squirting" out of the front bleed hole for valve stem lubrication. I rebushed and drilled the bushings as per the original. Also, as per the origianal, the depression in the bushing I.D is located at the bottom of the rocker shaft. The front lubricating hole does not appear to line up to any holes in the rocker arm shaft. What am I missing here??? How does the oil get to the forward hole to lubricate the valves?
Doug!

You have assembled the rockers correctly. The relief on the bushing should be at the bottom as that groove holds the oil and the pressure on the bushing is at the bottom. Oil "oozes" out the pushrod end and down the threads; it "oozes" out the squirter hole, and down the end of the rocker to the valve stem. If you were to bring the idle rpm up to 3000 with the valve cover off, I believe you'd see a lot more oil moving than you see now! Of course, you'd nearly have to take a bath when you were through!

Hope this little bit helps!

John
Engine John,
Quick and easy question.

Have just completed reinstallation of the proper emissions set up on a
'71B.

Looking for FACTORY correct clamps. Are they the double wire british,
solid jubilee or flat copper fuel line type? ,... or something
different?

Also, I've ordered some from Moss and consistently get the copper fuel
line
type which are too small in diameter; a proper source would be
appreciated.

2 more questions:

1, Where can I get the proper sized 2 wire clamps?
2, When the MG's came from the factory, I know they had no radios, but
were
there antenna installed? Hole cut for the antennas? or just a solid
fender?

Best regards,


Bart
Bart!


The hoses associated with the air pump, air manifold, and gulp
valve
are all double wire. The smaller clamps -- vacuum to the gulp valve --
are
solid band (with screw and nut). Hope this helps!


Tell me which clamps you want for which application and their
esign -- and I'll send them to you! Make it about $10 for a small handful
of clamps.

The factory did not install the radios -- they were dealer
installed -- hence the discrepancies in positioning of the antennas. Me? I
prefer the RH front fender, at the very crest, left and right; immediately
right of the rear line of the bonnet.


John
EnginePressure Failure Switch Hi John
The car is just a
shell at this stage.One question of many but I don't understand the
brake pressure failure switch.I am trying to determine if the switch I
have is good or not. It has two (terminals) pin connectors which my
meter indicates 0 resistance(as if the switch contacts were closed) no
matter which way you move the lever (which I believe would normally be
moved by the spool in the body caused by front or back brake failure).
To me when this switch is in the center position the switch should be
open but my meter indicates it is always closed (0 resistance). I just
noticed a wire at the bottom of the two pin connectors joining them
together which to me explains why my meter indicates the 0 resistance.
Should that wire be there? If it should then I guess I don't understand
how this switch functions. Hope you can help! Do you have replacement
switches?
Many Thanks
Don
Don!
The switch is a mandated safety item. When the piston in the
cylinder moves fore or aft, because of the loss of pressure in the front or
rear circuit, the piston contacts the pin from the bottom of the switch,
grounding it. The lamp in the brake pressure failure light is wired hot --
therefore, when the switch is grounded, the lamp illuminates. So why two
wires? A safety warning light is no good if it doesn't work! So -- you
have to be able to check the circuit. When you push the switch, you ground
the second wire! From the battery: current to the bulb, from the bulb to
the switch, across the switch, from the switch to the failure light switch,
from there to ground.

I hope I've made this clear. If not, I can sketch the circuit and
send it along.

John
Engine"S" in Engine NumberI have 64 mgb. Car number GHN3L 321
engine number 18S-G-U-H 425

I have been trying to find out what the "S" designates. Any help would be appreciated.
The originally delivered MG engines were 18G. At the introduction of the Smith's PCV valve the prefix was changed to 18GA. Of course, the five main bearing brought the 18GB.

The MGBs which were imported through the northwest, maybe the west altogether, had some sort of problem with the engines, what I do not know. These engines were changed by the dealers to the 18S engines. Only several hundred were so changed. I've always attributed the "S" to "substitute," but my British motor lexicon is limited, so it probably means something else!

We have more than several of these 18S engines in our database.

John


EngineEngine PaintJohn-

I have been looking all over for MGC green engine paint (not 'Healey
Green,'
but the silver gray-green used on C engines) without success. Do you know
of a
source or a reasonable substitute?

Thanks
Steve

Steve!

Contact Keith Sanders in the cc line. Keith's the chairman of the
American MGC Register and I'll bet that somewhere in their archives, someone
has already done all the research. I, myself, do not have an answer.

John

Extra Information:
1. To my knowledge the AH color is the same one used on the C. I used it on my cars for years.
Tom

2. A little more paint info from Rick Ingrm
I have seen various shades of the "Healey green". Perhaps the original post referred to the dark healey green that was used on some of the Sprites, etc.

I feel that the true MGC/Healey green is the silver/green shade. When I repainted the block on my C, I ordered the paint from the East Coast (can't remember the name, but it's something like Hirsch). I came in identical to my needs...and matched what was already on the block...an unrestored example....But when I loaned it to a friend with a 1968 MGC, he added some additional silver to lighten the green on his block and match the paint....hence, my Healey green 1969 MGC has an engine block with a deeper shade of Healey green than Dane's 1968 MGC engine block.

Knowing the variances throughout the builds of many BL products, I kind of wonder if there were different shades used for this paint throughout the build...Joe may mix the paint different than Sam....

rick
EngineOilQuestion----what type/weight oil do you recommend putting in shock absorbers for my 1977 MGB? I have never added any oil to the shocks, & I have owned the car since 1980. I was not aware that the shocks required oil. Is it necessary to remove the shock(s) from the car, drain it, & refill it?

Thanks in advance.
Shock oil is a 50 weight hydraulic oil with a seal sweller and an anti-foaming agent. Most of the oils available are a much light viscosity -- but with all the wear and tear on our shocks, that heavier weight is better than lighter weight -- but any weight is better than none at all!

Front shocks have a filler -- a 5/16" BSF nut which you can see, looking straight in above the front tire; the rear shocks the same filler, just under those white plastic plugs on the far outside of the rear shelf area behind the seats.

Moss sells the shockoil.

Hope this helps!

John



EngineEngine NoiseI have a 1955 MG TF 1500. The engine is making a
tapping/clicking/clacking
noise after the engine warms up. It sounds good when first started but as
it warms up it starts making more noise. The noise seems to be coming
from
under the valve cover. The valve clearances are set to the recommended
gaps. What might be making this noise? What can be done to solve the
noise problem? I'd appreciate your help.

Howard!

Use a 0.010" feeler, and with the engine idling, slide that feeler
between each rocker and valve stem from front to rear. When the clacking
noise disappears, you've found the valve that is the source of the problem.

It could be a bad cam follower and cam (common on the MGB), but I
suspect that one of the ends of the pushrod has come loose (common on the T
type). Remove that one pushrod and get it crimped and spot welded -- or
simply purchase a new one.

Hope this helps.

John
Engine80B Motor RebuildJohn

Met you at GOF South in April, (I proudly received a 2nd in class), you diagnosed my 80B as needing a cam. Well I have decided to have the motor completely gone through and would like your input on some thoughts.
1. Replace Weber DGAV w/Twin SU's
2. Replace with 1.5 or 1.75 SU's
3. Cam to use w/either size SU's
4. Cylinder Head port modifications required
5. Compression Ratio recommended
6. Exhaust system recommended
7. 5 speed Ford Sierra type 9 gearbox, (no modification to car), bolt-in conversion, from The Five Speed Co.

Sincerely
Dave
Dave!

If I were you, these are the steps I would take:

Return the engine to original condition. Fit a new cam (an earlier cam) but keep the Stromberg carb etc. All renewed, this will work very well.

More power: Two things: change to dual SUs and have some porting and polishing on the cylinder head.

Real power: Fit the Moss Supercharger.

Horsepower = torque x rpm. The RPM is easy -- you just use your right foot. It's the torque that's expensive.

The engine wants to breathe, but it doesn't need larger carbs as the #1 restriction to power is the size and shape of the inlet valve ports.

That five speed gearbox is nice, but remember that there are no parts easily available.

Give me a call sometime and we can discuss this further!

John

EngineCompression RatioJohn,

I attended the GOF and was present for your Tech Session on the lawn at the Palm Coast and We all really enjoyed.

While there I read in the new issue of the Classic Motorsport magazine about the MGB.
To be to the Point: What do I need to do to change my "73" B motor from a 78 HP to a
98 HP (66-67 vintage) Block. The only difference I can see is the Compression Ratio. I suspect that it is either the head or the Pistons (or both), and removal of the emissions stuff, but I am not sure how to accomplish that.

Thanks

Gregg
Gregg!

Horsepower = RPM x Torque. RPM is cheap -- just use your right foot and rev the engine to 5500. Torque is expensive, but these are the steps I would take:

Tune the car as well as possible. A single Stromberg carbed MGB will run pretty well -- and the cost is pretty low. Professionally, about $350.

Fit dual SU carbs. My preference is the HS carb from 1963-1971. Professionally, about $1250.

Fit a better cam. Professionally, about $1000.

Flow the cylinder head -- that is port and polish, matching manifolding, etc. Professionally, about $2000.

Finally, fit the Moss supercharger. Professionally, about $3500.

Combining steps will drop the price of each step, of course.
You are right about the engine -- the higher the compression, the more power you can get -- but the higher octane you'll need. Best to stay right in the 8:1 to 9:1 range.

Hope this little bit helps!

John
EngineAnsa Exhaust I have a 1979 MGB. I have installed an original 1974 cast iron exhaust
manifold and the matching downpipe. I'm confused about how to put an Ansa
exhaust on it. At the recommendation of a friend, I bought the MG0125
(old center) and MG0227 (the new rear).

Will this fit? My friend says he has done several this way. I'm having
difficulty getting it to fit. the MG0125 will fit, but its outlet is then
point at the rear axle housing. There is no way to connect the MG0227 to
it. I'm going to ask my friend how he did it.

On the other side, the guy at the parts store that sales Ansa says only
the combination of the MG0225 and MG0227 will work togother on this car.
He says the old exhaust manifold and downpipe have nothing to do with it.

What combination of Ansa has worked for you on a 1979 MGB with the old
manifold?

--
That combination would be difficult to fit, to be sure. If you have a 1979,
then you want the 225 and the 227. It will connect right up to your down
pipe (from a 1968-1974). Or, ask your buddy there to come over and fit
this hybrid system for you!

We've fit ANSA's for 25 years. They are the best exhaust you can purchase
for the car, hands down!

John
EngineMGA Engine to 5 Main MGBIs there a supplier you recommend for an electronic tach or a place to send the original mechanical tach for an upgrade conversion since I am converting to a 5 main bearing MGB engine? Where can I find the conversion plate to match the engine and transmission (using the MGA Transmission)?

Thank you,

Don
Don!

Try an MGB or Midget, 1964 through 1967 for that tachometer -- perhaps eBay. Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck often has units.

My suggestion on the rear plate is to have the plate from the MGA engine opened up to 3 1/2" to accept the five main seal. This is a job for a machine shop. You'll need that flywheel from the five main - three synchro gearbox MGB combination, too, along with the front cover for the gearbox and release bearing fork.

I did this on my MGA about 25 years ago -- it provided me with wonderfully reliable power until I decided to go "original" and find a proper 1622.

Hope this helps!

John
EngineAccelerator is StickyJohn,
Hi! I’ve heard and read a lot about you . . . all good.

I’m a new owner of a ’62 MGA Mk II. Can you tell me why the accelerator pedal has a sticky feel or movement to it? I’ve lubed the mechanical pieces under the dash from side to side but no luck?

Best regards,
Mark
Mark!

Three reasons for the sticky feeling: welded cable; misaligned parts; lack of lubrication; overly strong return spring.

Welded cable: lack of a good ground between chassis and engine cause the throttle cable to carry some of the current, so the inner cable welds itself to the outer cable.

Misaligned parts: As the inner throttle cable exits the outer cable, it should not exit on the bias -- it should be straight out.

Lack of lubrication: pivot bearings on the throttle pedal shaft (inside the car).

The throttle pedal shaft has a small spring (on the right side of the cockpit floor), and a moderately strong spring at the carbs.

I cannot imagine another reason.

Hope this helps.

John
EnginePayen head gaskets hello,
thank you for your great posts.....Do you have an
opinion on the 'payen' head gaskets please and do you
believe that they solve the leaky head problem in the
b-series please?
thank you,
-Jeremy
Jeremy!

The new Payen gaskets include a strip along the RH side, I suppose
to stop the water weeping endemic to all our engines. Does this strip work?
We've stopped adding the copper wire and just fit the gaskets as they are
provided. So far, so good!

John

Engine10CG EngineI understand from some of the literature I've read that my 10CG engine
has inherent problems (crankshaft bearings?). My goal is to restore
the car (not running since purchase) to a "reliable" street/pleasure
vehicle.
If the engine proves to need a rebuild, can the weak spots be upgraded
economically or should I look for a 1275 substitute? I have had no
success locating a British shop in Montana--know where 1275's are
available if that's a better choice? (We'll be coming to the Midwest
this summer if that helps.)
Thanks.
Herb
Herb!

The 10 CG engine is really just a bored out 948cc (9CG) with a
longer stroke which continues to use the 1.75" main journals. The 10CC and
the 12CC-12V use a 2.00" main journal. That larger diameter bearing
offers about 15% more surface area in the 10CC engine which is not really a
dramatic increase. The main advantage to the 1250 engine is the increase in
displacement, which, still around 15%, is not negligible. Plus, that 1275
engine is a really refined workhorse!

The 10CG engine, if properly machined, will keep your early Midget
original, and I doubt you would encounter any real difficulties. That
"proper machining" includes align honing of the main bearing saddles and the
rear oil slinger. If you cannot find a shop in your area that can do a
proper job, then send the block to a shop who can do the work -- this
machining is a very critical step!

At one time, 1275 engines were fairly plentiful, but it's
increasingly difficult to find them.

We can organize the machining for you if you want to keep the car
original.

John
EngineTorque SettingHI JOHN!; I HAVE MY 74 BGT THAT I SUPERCHARGED LAST YEAR, I ALSO HAVE A MOSS MOTORS ALUMINIUM CYLINDER HEAD. I RECENTLY BLEW THE HEAD GASKET, AND I WAS WONDERING IF THERE IS A DIFFERENT TORQUE SETTING FOR THE ALLOY HEAD, OR IS 50 LBS OK?

Chris
Chris!

If you are using original studs, or the "competition studs" offered by APT, then you can go higher with that head torque. I always use 55 lb-ft on the original studs, and that's with the studs oiled which translates to a greater downward force. Of course, you have to "feel" each stud and if one begins to turn (to stretch) more than it should, you should replace it with another. Those APT studs take a much higher torque than the factory studs. Be wary of the Moss studs, as our experience is that they can snap at as little as 35 lb-ft. Retorquing the head, even several times, is important, too. Because of the great expansion of the aluminium, I would torque the head cold.

The coefficient of expansion for aluminium is about 2 x 10 (-5) per degree Centigrade. So, for a head of about four inches in thickness, rising from about room temp to about 200F, the head will expand by (60degrees Centigrade times about four inches times 0.00002) about 50 thousandths of an inch. Since the cylinder head studs are 3/8-24, then each turn of the head nut yields about 40 thousandths of an inch. So, the expansion is about the same as one turn of the head nut!

While it is easy to skim the bottom of the head to within several thousandths of an inch, surfacing the top of the block is a real chore -- obviously, as you have to disassemble the engine!

If the gasket blew out between one and two, or between three and four, I would suggest laying a short piece (two inch)of twisted copper wire (use two individual strands from normal 16 gauge automotive stranded wire), held against the top of the block with a dab or two of silicone gasket sealant. Place the new head gasket on top of this, and the head on top of that.

With a boost of less than 10 psi, you shouldn't encounter any more problems.

John
EngineExhaust StudsI really enjoy reading your tech tips.
I would appreciate you telling me if it is alright to use new exhaust studs that have coarse threads on both ends. The original studs seem to have one side that is fine thread along with a larger nut for the exhaust flange. What do you suggest to make my new engine safe ?

Thank you
DAVE
Dave!

I am certain that you will encounter no problems using "coarse/coarse" studs. However, even NAPA sells "coarse/fine" studs (about two inches long). You know, the original nuts were brass, but we find that they loosen over time (although they're not supposed to bond with the steel). We now use "prevailing torque" nuts (we call them elliptical nuts because the thread is distorted on one side into an ellipse).

Moss sells the correct studs, too.

John
Engine76 MGB - Weber CarbsDear John,
You have helped me over the phone several times in the 15 years
I
have owned my 76 MGB. Congratsulations on becoming the technical advisor.
I have two questions. I hope to convert to the Weber carb and was
wondering
if you have any used or rebuilt around, and also how to size up or order
the
exhaust maniflod I will need to replace the combined manifold I now have,
and what sort of surgery is needed on the headpipe. I also need to
replace
my heater core as it has been leaking antifreeze for some time now and
fogging the windows. Is there a source for these besides Moss? An
internet
note from Chicago MG club decribed the preocedure (looks awful) and
mentioned a core replacement for around $100, considerably less than Moss'
quote. Currently I have the Stromberg setup and it has started running
very
rich after it warms up (and rough) and becomes impossible to restart
unless
it cools off completely, making me think that the choke is sticking, only
I'm not sure how to get at the choke. Take care, Hal
Dear Hal!

Your best bet is to purchase a new Weber, not a used one. However,
Weber has been on strike for a while now and the carbs are not easily found.
If you must purchase this unit, get the DGV32/36 progressive and not the
36/36 which is simply not suitable for the car.

For less than the price of a Weber you can get your original
Stromberg rebuilt. Several firms, including mine, perform that service.

Before changing the heater core, CHANGE the hose clamps and hoses
that attach the heater matrix to the heater control valve and the return
pipe. If these clamps get loose (common), then the coolant sprays directly
into the heater box giveing the impression that the core is faulty. They
are rarely, if EVER, bad. But, you live in a colder climate than do the
rest of us.

Changing the core is very difficult, true. There is a way to do it
fast, but it bends up the front of the heater box pretty fiercely.

Let me know!

John
EngineFitting Thrust Washerstips for fitting the thrust washers in a '79 MG Midget 1500CC engine??
Just HELP PLEASE

Mike
Mike

The workshop manual calls for about 0.010 clearance. This is wrong,
wrong, wrong. You want 0.002-0.003. Purchase oversize thrust washers and
surface them if necessary so that they fit allowing just that bit of end
float.

If the engine is ALL apart, then you should have the bottom end
align honed and the rear thrust washer relief cut away to accept TWO thrust
washers at the rear face of the rear main cap.

Contact me again if you want ALL the spiffy 1500 Midget rebuild
notes.

John
EngineMoss Oil SealJohn, I read your March, 2002 email answer to Dr. Simson regarding not using
the Moss seal and recommending that he "do the right thing" and have the
engine Align Bored and Honed.
I unfortunately have the original Moss oil seal installed which did not
work. Short of putting in the new kit or "doing the right thing" has anyone
figured out a method to make this old system work? Special materials or
modifications? I would be satisfied with the old quarter size oil puddle
that I had before the Moss seal was installed. Now it looks like the Exxon
Valdiz beached on my garage floor.
Thanks for any help.

Bill
Bill!

If that Moss seal is fitted EXACTLY correctly, if it is fitted with EXTREME
care, if your machine shop has experience in fitting them before, then it
can be successful. My personal experience is mixed -- that means that the
Moss seal has worked several times; and it has not worked several times. For
each time it has not worked it has cost me dearly!

The only way out is to disassemble the engine, remove the bearing pins, get
the bottom end align honed, the slinger align honed (to 0.007" larger than
the scroll thread on YOUR crank). The engine is build with metric
measurements.

The main bearing housing is 56.54mm which is 2.2177-2.2185". the groove on
the crank should be 58.75 -.03 -.07 or 2.313 (although 2.312 is more
commonly fine). Therefore, the housing bore is 59.00 +.05 -0.0 or 2.323 (use
2.3185).

This is a very frustrating type of problem. If I were you I would contact
Moss and ask for ALL of their technical updates and try, once more, to get
that seal to work.

I've been where you are. Good luck!

John
EngineFront Pulley in MGAJohn,

Thanks for your expert advice at this year’s MGA get together. I had the MGA with the loose front pulley. This pulley has been that way for nearly 25 years (and 30,000 miles). You stated we would not make it back here. My son and I safely made it back to Louisville. I will heed your advice (and immediately changed the seat backs around after your review). Again, this is very good for me, as I have had this car for many years and all I have is the manual.



Thanks for donating your time and expertise,



Steve


STEVE!



You're really fortunate that the wear has not progressed so much that the front pulley has come loose from the crank altogether.



The "correct" and profession fix here is to remove the engine, remove the crank, get it welded up and recut, and fit a new front pulley.



A simpler "correct" fix invovles using a new keyway, soldering it into the crank, which is difficult.



The dollar solution is to remove the front nut and then drill a 1/4" hole into the crank and pulley using the inside diameter of the pulley and outside diameter of the crank as the center for the hole. Drill in about 1/2", drive in a 1/4" pin, then refit the locktab and nut.



Doesn't that tickety tick from the pulley drive you nuts?



Hope this helps.



John



EngineMGB Engine ProblemHi John, I have a problem with my 71B that I cannot figure out. I have
switched out a motor from my parts car (79B) into my 71. The 71 was leaking
badly and was 15 years old. The new engine's #3 cylinder is dead. There is
fire to the plug as well as the other three. The engine fires right up and
seems to run good (except for the miss). After the engine reaches running
temperature (just above 'N") I am getting quite a bit of grey smoke from the
exhaust especially after coming to a stop and then taking off ( I expect
this is unburnt fuel from the #3 cylinder building up in the exhaust). I
have replaced valve seals, rebuilt the carb (a Weber DGV), installed new
plug wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor. It is equipped with a new
Petronics Igniter electronic ignition module. I have checked the compression
and it seems to be good (#1 140lb, #2 145lb, #3 155lb and #4 165lb all plugs
out, reading taken after 6 revolutions (needle stopped climbing)). Any
ideas?
Thanks for your help!

Mark
Mark!

Very interesting. If the compression is good then the engine is OK,
unless the cam lobe(s) for #3 are just horrid. Watch the engine run with
the valve cover off. Are the #5 and #6 valves opening the same distance as
the other valves? If you can see a difference, it's too much.

You have spark at #3. it could be that the new plug got so washed
in gasoline at some point that it quit firing. It could be a bad plug.
change it for a new one, or swap it with #1.

You have to have compression, spark, and air/fuel. So, it could be
that there is an air leak at the 3/4 port between that aluminium manifold
and the head. While the engine is idling, spray carb cleaner around the
inlet manifold at the head. If there is a leak the engine speed will change
dramatically. It rises or falls depending on the severity of the leak and
the mixture of the carb.

Please let me know what it was when you find it.

John
EngineT-Type Engine ColoursJohn
If you have time to reply, I'd appreciate your advice.

I am at last reassembling the engine of my TF 1250 (well, about 1350 now, as it's 100 thou oversize!) and would like to paint it correctly. At present the block is yellow and the rest silver. I have the dark red paint for the block and head, and believe that the generator and starter should be black, but what about the bits and pieces? Alloy sump, timing chain cover, oil pump body/filter mount, fan and pulleys, inlet manifold, engine stabilizer assembly? Oh, and how about the gearbox?

Also,a couple of years ago I bought from you a front oil seal for the crankshaft, Moss # 120-750. It is narrower than the grooves in sump and cover but snug diametrically. Do you use a sealant on the o/d, and if so,what type? You told me which way round to fit it but I've now forgotten; does the spring go inside or out?

Thanks in advance. All the best,

Michael
Michael!

The engine is most certainly that dark red. We've used PPG DAR 2673H also PPG 50782Y. I shy away from the Moss spray paint because several drops on anti-freeze stain it indelibly. I wish I could tell you the paint we use right now, but I'm at home and the paint is at the shop! You can call any day during tech time and I'll go out and get the can to see for sure.

My understanding is that the dynamo and the starter motor are black. The sump is usually unpainted. The bell housing is usually unpainted. The aluminium timing chain cover is usually painted. Water pump and pulleys are engine color. Intake manifold is engine color. Exhaust manifold is just rust -- you can have it "jet hot coated" and that makes for a very, very nice appearance. They were aluminized originally, but that's hard to duplicate and it only last for so long.

That seal is narrower than the slot in the sump and timing cover, but with some silicone sealant (Dow Corning RTV clear) and a little attention to detail the seal will line up just fine.

John
EngineMGB Engine Mount Good evening,
I really enjoyed reading your tech tips on the North American MGB
Register web site. Would you have any advice with regard to replacing the
left front engine mount on a 1979 MGB? Mine's broken, and I can feel the
vibration of the engine against the steering column when I make right
turns (not good - hence I'm not driving it while I figure out what to do).
I'm trying to figure out if this is something I can do myself or if it's
something I need to find a shop to do for me. Any advice you have to
offer would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Kevin


Kevin!

There are two parts to the engine mounts: the rubber mount itself;
and, the engine bracket.

The rubber mount on the right side is easily changed; the engine
bracket on the right is easily changed.

The rubber mount on the left can be changed without removing the
steering pinion, but it's nearly impossible. The engine bracket on the left
is very difficult to change.

When installing new engine brackets, weld a gusset at the top corner
where the tear begins -- that will prevent the new bracket from tearing as
the old one.

Let me know what you've done!

John
EngineDiameter of PistonsJohn,
I am restoring a MGTF1500 with I bought here in Holland with a 1250 engine in it. I was lucky to find a 1500 motor here in the neighbourhood.
This motor has the following pistons L57 AEF119 TO SUIT +0,030 BORE , the diameter I meassured on one piston was 72.75 mm. This should be 72.763 mm.
Can you tell me which max. cylinderdiameter belongs to this pistendiam.

Regards
Ernst

Ernst!
About the XPAG: You know, all the basic measurements are metric. Hence the bore of 72mm and the stroke of 90mm yielding 1466 cc. However, since the engines were supplied in countries which used inches as the basic measurements, nearly all overbore and undersizes are in inch increments.

A 0.030" overbore is 0.762mm. That means that the piston should measure 72.762mm less the bore clearance of some 0.005" or 0.127mm or about 72.635mm. The difference between your measurement of your piston 72.75mm and my calculation of 72.635 (the calculated piston size for a 0.030" overbore) is 0.115mm or about 0.005 -- which could be errors in measurement or errors in piston to bore clearances.

The book gives a clearance at the thrust face of 0.0021-0.0024" (or 0.053-0.061mm). So, I would bore the block at 72.75mm + 0,57mm or 73.32mm.

But, in the end, go with the suggestion of your machine shop.

Do not miss the most important part of the machining -- and that is align boring or align honing of the block and sizing the rear slinger to run 0.007" or 0.178 larger than the scroll thread on the crankshaft. The main cap diameter should be 56.54mm.
There are many jobs for the machine shop: boring the cylinders; turning the crankshaft; fitting the cam bearings; etc.
One part of the machine work which is often forgotten is to machine the main journals -- where the main bearings are located. These three holes become distorted over time. The machine shop removes the pins which hold the bearings, then they skim a little metal from the main caps. Now the hole is no longer round. Then, they run a boring or honing bar inside the three main caps and bore or hone those holes round.

The same job should be performed on the rear slinger -- the device that keeps the oil from leaking past the rear main journal.


Hope some of this helps!

John
EngineSticky Oil Pump?Sir,

Thanks for the informative article on overdrive.

I have a 1980 MBG LE (#508817) that is fitted with overdrive. The OD worked intermittently when I 1st got the car (April 05), but now not at all. I have confirmed that the gearbox has enough oil. I have tested the electrical by placing my volt meter in line on the gearshift switch. It registers 12V when the ignition is ON, the gearshift switch is switched to "IN", and I slide the shifter into the 4TH gear position. 0V when the shiftger is out if 4TH.

Would this indicate that 3/4 switch and solinoid are ok?

Eliminating oil level and eletrical, would you suspect a sticky oil pump?

Thanks again,

Thomas
Thomas!

If you've tested the voltage at the Lucas female connector between the operational wire and the solenoid wire -- and it's hot when the switch is ON, then I'll agree that you've got power.

If you have power but no overdrive operation, then the solenoid itself -- or the oilpump are culprits.

You can remove the bottom cover, watch the oil pump, and turn the driveshaft by hand to see if the oil pump bobs up and down. If it's stuck down, remove it and clean the burrs off the piston.

Hope this helps.

John
EngineOil ConsumptionJohn

I saw a note in MGB driver that we (members of NAMBGR) can e-mail you and ask a question concering problems with their car.

I just went to the "triathlon" in VT last weekend and had some difficulty keeping oil in the engine. I drove approx 600 miles and used 8 quarts of oil. (not good).

Prior to this trip, I was having a high temperature situation to which I replaced the radiator , checked the water pump and removed the thermostat. we learned that the head gasket was leaking. (at this time I would use about 1 quart of oil every 400-500 miles). I had the head gasket replaced and the head reworked. (valves ground)

Max rpm was 3,000-3,500 during the trip.

If I kept the speed down below 3,000 rpm on the return trip & it seemed to reduce the oil usage.

there is no smoke from the exhaust, no leaking, compression is 125 in all cylinders, spark plugs are black a bit sooty but not fouled.

If you hold your hand approximately 2-3 inches from the exhaust you get small crystalized particles on you hand. (they do not smear like oil)

Can you assist in what might be the problem?

Gary
Gary!

Oil consumption is caused by leaking or by burning. If the engine is leaking it's obvious when you park -- there will be oil drips or puddles larger than a nickel or quarter sized drop that the "dry" ones leave. If it is not leaking then it MUST be burning.

The engine burns oil in three ways: the PCV system pressurizes and the oil control rings cannot scrape the oil off the walls. Check your PCV hoses to make CERTAIN that they are open and unrestricted.

The second way the oil is burned is when it's drawn between the valve stem and guide. This results in a lot of smoke at idle and on deceleration.

But the problem is always the rings -- and it's probably yours. One quart of oil spread out over a hundred miles doesn't leave a trail of blue!

Hone the cylinders and fit new rings!

John


EngineAbrath ExhaustHi John:

Forty years ago when I had an Austin Healy sprite I put an Abarth exhaust on
it. I loved the sound and those two little exhaust tips sticking out from
under the bumper. Is there anything similar on the market today that I
could put on my MG TD?

Thanks for your help,

Gene
Gene!

Gosh, we just had a twin piped TD in the shop -- but that unit was as old as the one you fitted 40 years ago!

I do not know anyone who makes such a creature -- although with some work and fabrication I'll be you could come up with something!

John

EngineOil and Oil Filter for StorageJohn,
Need recommendation for oil, (viscosity, type, etc.) for my 80' B and 52 TD. And oil filter for the B. I store them from late November to early spring.

Thanks,
Bob
Bob!

We use Castrol 20W/50 GTX for all engines, TC through MGB LE. Use 80/90 gear oil in the TD gearbox and that same GTX in the MGB gearbox. Use 80/90 hypoid gear oil in the diff on the TD and MGB -- and the same in the rack an pinion. I used to use engine oil (factory specification) for the carburetter dampers, but have now changed to that much heavier 80/90 gear oil.

Be sure to use some moth balls!

We have winter storage instructions available

John

EngineCompression on 1971 MGBJohn,

I just took compression readings on my 1971 MGB 1800V engine.
My readings show 110 PSI across all piston cylinders (engine warm). Absolutely no variance between cylinders.

My question:
I believe that 130 PSI is the proper compression pressure for my engine. Is 110 PSI acceptable compression or would you suggest replacing the piston rings.
Is it a requirement to take the engine out to replace the piston rings?

I am also planning on replacing the current head with a new one. Will a new cylinder head improve the compression pressure also?

Sincerely

Doug
Doug!

You have no need to fret! The imperative here is that the cylinders have consistent compression. That they do, so you're in great shape. The maximum variation suggested by most good engine tuners is 10%.

Now about the actual figure. There is a "static compression" calculated from the displacement and the size of the cylinder head. Say that's 8:1. Atmospheric pressure is about 15psi. So, 8 x 15 = 120 less the 15 we started with leaves a static compression of 105psi.

But, there are many more factors at play. First is the cam. The inlet valve doesn't close until 52 degrees AFTER Bottom Dead Center -- on the compression stroke, so if you were turning the engine over by hand, the piston would have traveled 52 degrees with the inlet valve open -- building up no compression! If the engine is stone cold, then not much heat will be generated, but if the engine is warm, the heat of the compressed air will be greater -- and it is the heat of the compressed air which pushes the compression to those figures higher than the "static compression."

Then there is the accuracy of the gauge you're using. If it's an old unit, purchased for little, it may not be very true. If it's new and expensive, the readings may be better. How many times did you spin the engine? Twice? Twelve times?

Doug, the CRITICAL function here is consistency! You have consistency. You have great compression.

Hope this helps!

John
EngineGold Seal Engines and Blue InteriorJohn-
I have several questions that you have probably seen before. I am
looking at purchasing a 1964 MGB "project" car that has been sitting
for 20 years. The advertisement says the body is in reasonable shape
and the engine is a factory "Gold-seal motor". The owner says he
bought the car a year ago from a restorer in Minnesota who was getting
out of the business who said he took the engine out of the car and
stored it safely away to prevent it from getting cannibalized in the
yard for other MG projects. The engine is painted gold and currently
out of the car.

I am somewhat skeptical of this story and I was wondering if you could
tell me anything about gold seal engines? Is there a way to identify
the engine by a serial number that could somehow be linked back to the
car? If it can be verified as a true gold seal replacement does the
lack of an original engine impact the value of the car? Before
installing the engine back in the car, could it be painted to look like
a factory original?

The other question I had concerns the interior. The car is iris blue
with medium/light blue leather seats with dark blue piping. Yet when I
attempt to research available interiors on these pull handle cars, I
only find that black and tan interiors were offered. Moss Motors
doesn’t list blue leather either as replacements. Can you comment?

I would appreciate any information you can provide.

Best regards,
Jim
Jim!

The factory offered "Goldseal" and "Silverseal" rebuilt components. Your Goldseal engine has an engine tag, no doubt with the prefix 48G. Give me the actual engine number and I can tell you more -- but the bottom line is "YES"there were Goldseal engines. You can certainly paint the engine the original maroon -- but you know, your "original" Goldseal engine would be a conversation piece at any MG event.

My Factory Parts Book -- AKD 3227 -- lists Seat and Seat Fittings: Seat Assembly - bucket - RH - Blue with Pale Blue piping. AKE 4492. The top and tonneau were also available in blue.

I believe I still have one copy of this AKD3227, an invaluable source of information for your 1964 pull handle (?) MGB. I'd be pleased to send it to you for $45, shipping included. It, coupled with Clausager's "Original MGB," makes up the basic documentation for the MGB. Plus, it has EVERY SINGLE part drawn and labeled. It is impossible to restore an early MGB without it. Yet, it is not a popular book. Mine is a reprint of the original.

Good luck!

John


EngineExhaust Manifold GasketJohn,

I am the proud, relatively new owner of a 1979 MGB roadster. Recently, I successfully replaced the clutch. Actually still in the re-assembly process.

My question relates to re-installation of the exhaust manifold. I found an orange colored rubbery material on portions of my old gasket. It looks like someone added some kind of gasket compound at the last installation. Is this ever done? I thought that the new metalic gasket was usually installed without additional sealants. Does such a sealer exist that will withstand the temps in that area of the engine? Is it appropriate to use such a material?

Most sincerely

Doug

Doug!

You've probably already worked through this....

the orange stuff was high temperature silicone gasket material. It was used around the #1 inlet port as the manifolds warp and this port lifts away from its seat. Best bet is to have the manifold resurfaced (on a long belt sander).

Let me know if you need any more assistance.

John
EngineRear Seal LeakOn my 75 B, with a LH overdrive, I am leaking major oil from the rear OD seal right behind the driveshaft flange. I don't have the opportunity to remove the engine and tranny from the car. So, as you can guess, I'm contacting you with the question: " can I replace the rear OD oil seal with the overdrive in the car from under the car?" Some folks mention needing an impact wrench, which I also don't have..

Anyway, thanks for reading, Hear you're a major MG guru.

Derek

Derek!

It is very odd for the rear seal to leak. Make sure that's the source! You can purchase oil dye from NAPA and use a black light to cause the dye to fluoresce -- making the source of the leak unmistakable. You'll have to clean off the gearbox, add the dye through the filler hole, run the car for a couple of miles, come back, jack it up and look with your black light.

If it is the rear seal, you need to drop the driveshaft, remove the rear nut, and withdraw the rear flange. Then you need to polish the seal surface on the flange and change the seal. You'll need a BIG screwdriver to pry out the seal. You will need an impact wrench (you can rent, beg, borrow, steal battery operated ones).

Get your diagnosis right before you start! All the oil leaking from the engine washes back onto the gearbox and it's not uncommon to misdiagnose an oil leak.

Hope this helps!

John
EngineEngine Swap, MidgetHi Folks,

This past weekend my midget crapped out in Ann Arbor-I live in Ohio 150 miles away. The mechanic (Larry at Illi's Auto Service in Ann Arbor called me today and told me the engine's seized and I'm looking at 2-3K for repair. That's what the car's worth but I've been thinking perhaps an engine swap may be cheaper. I've been terribly depressed all afternoon thinking about what I'm going to do. Can you offer me any suggestions?

Thanks Mike
Mike!

It's so very unusual to have an engine seize up during operation -- unless it's lacking coolant or oil. We have no rebuilt engines. Any "used" engine you purchase will be a pig in a poke. Any Midget 1500 engine or Spitfire 1500 engine will work. Two to three thousand for a rebuild is a low price.

Give me a call!

John
EngineValve TickingGreetings John--

I have a valve that continues to "tick" regardless of repeated adjustments ( it's actually the 1969 MGB engine's valve, not mine). I religiously follow the "sacred rule of 9." I'd appreciate any suggestions you might have. Is it likely that the contact face (rocker arm-valve stem) of the rocker arm needs to be "dressed?"

With highest regards--

David
David!

You can quickly identify that ticking valve by inserting a 0.010" feeler between the valve stem and rocker face as the engine is running. But if, after repeated adjustments, you must conclude that the camshaft and lifter are faulty (the ticking comes from an incorrect ramp closing speed). We can change a cam in our shop in a day, but it's quite a task. Remove the distributor drive gear, pushrods and lifters, front cover, gears and chain, radiator, sometime the oil cooler, and the cam will side out the front of the engine. Sometimes you have to lift the engine off the mounts to remove the front pulley. Call me if you need any more information!


John
EngineValve SealsHi,

I'm having some "burning issues" with my 1961 MGA.

Smoke on acceleration and idle, as well as start up.

Do you have a link as to how to install the Feltpro umbrella seals - without removing the head ?

Many thanks,



Duncan
Duncan,

You can change the valve seals without removing the cylinder head. Use Felpro SS70373 seals.

Loosen all the rockers completely, then rotate the engine, slipping each rocker off the pushrod when possible. Remove the #1 and the #8 rockers completely (withdraw the split pin). Position the rockers vertically so they cannot push down on the valve stem.

Use compressed air in the cylinders, or, failing that, feed a couple feet of cotton clothesline into the cylinder (piston down), then rotate the engine (by hand) until the rope is pushed up tightly against the valves.

Use a pair of screwdrivers, lever UNDER the rocker shaft, and DOWN on the valve spring cap. Lift away the collets, remove the cap, the springs, and the oil shroud. Do NOT replace the oil shroud or it will tear the umbrella seals to shreds within several revolutions.

Use lots of grease for installation.

Replace the collets in the same manner as removal.

This task is easier with two people -- but BE CAREFUL -- as the collets are very small and easily lost!

Hope this helps!

John
EngineMain Bearing SealsIt has been some time since we talked. You re-built a steering rack and front shocks for me sometime ago,both are doing well thank you.

I am installing the afore mentioned seals on the oil pan the 1969 MG Midget. As you can see there are several choices to make . Confusing to say the least. Not being a mechanic I have a couple of questions on the subject. Well,actually,a couple of dumb questions.

After soaking in oil would the seals need any further sealing other than Hylomar gasket seal at the point where the main and cap seals meet or would the Hylomar be compatible with the oil (I think not) to seal the entire cap "seal"?


Thanking you in advance.

John

John!

The modern corn gaskets provided with most kits won't break as they're impregnated with some sort of rubber or flexible plastic. Hence, no need to soak.

These gaskets are compressed dramatically and really don't need gasket goo, but if you do use some, I'd just use RTV silicone sealant (I prefer the clear variety).

When fitted, the gaskets will be incrementally longer than the slot into which they fit.

Draw the sump up evenly, back and forth, from the center to the ends.

Hope this helps!

John
EngineReplacement Valve CoverDear John,

I want to replace my stock 18V valve cover, (which has a breather tube that connects to the charcoal canister) for a polished cast aluminum valve cover which does not have a breather tube.
What are my options? Doesn't the breather tube act like a PCV vavle?????

Thanks,
TOM
Tom,

Note that the tube from your original valve cover, while it's about 1/2" in diameter, has only a 5/64" hole at the end. If you fit a 1/4" NPT pipe nipple to your new valve cover, solder a washer on the end - something - so that the final hole is the same size as the original (or you'll lean out your mixture).

John
EngineEngine ColorDear John,

What color was the engine block & cylinder head painted in 1979
MGB 18 V ?????
What color was the valve cover???

Mine is RED on the block and BLACK on the cover!
Thanks,
TOM
Tom,

Engine "red" is really primer. Engine was painted BLACK (DAR 9000 in PPG), as was the valve cover. I've attached my notes about the Stromberg. Hope this all helps.

John
EngineEngine SmokeHi John,
Talked to you last night about the PCV valve on the '68 Midget ( I have owned the car all of 3 days, its a surprise for my wife as her first car was a '67 back in '69) and how I thought it was causing the engine to burn oil. Again, after the car has run for about 5 to10 min. alot of blue smoke comes out the exhaust. I also notice when running down the road there is less smoke and a lot more when starting up from a stop.
I have checked the PCV and have found oil inside, spring looks ok, as does the diaphragm and plunger. With the engine running and the PCV opened up, if I push down on the diaphragm with my finger (closing the valve) the vacuum keeps the diaphragm pulled in (down). If I increase the idle the vacuum pulls the diaphragm down into the valve housing. However, when I clean out the oil and put the PCV back together it takes longer for the smoke to appear. The oil filler cap (plastic) is not plugged as I can suck or blow air through it. Ug! The separator (can) is not clogged as I can also blow air back through the hose. The hoses to and from the valve are not cracked, matter of fact they look new. I have also noticed when I put my finger over the port coming from the separator there is, I think, a strong vacuum and a small amount of air pressure coming out of the hose from the separator. You did mention compression rings. Can't find what the speck is (psi). Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Roger
Roger,

Another option here for a temporary fix -- is to leave the hose from the separator loose -- vent it to the ground -- and to plug up the PCV valve. Then drive it and see if it continues to smoke.

Smoking at idle and taking off is a tell tale sign of bad valve guides -- I don't think this is the problem, but try disconnecting the valve. In the end, it's probably the rings. You can check for compression and you can expect to find a consistent compression + or - 10%. I have no "real" or "proper" figures, as the compression indicated is a function of the gauge, the speed of the engine, the heat of the engine, and the valve lash.

Hope this helps!

John
EngineSnapped Timing ChainCan a snapped timing chain ever physically jam a crank shaft from rotating?

It is my last hope before I start pulling the engine
Pohs Eesteh!

If the chain has snapped, you usually have some free movement of the crank, maybe not 360, but some. The chain cannot snap by itself, and in the ONE case I've seen of a snapped chain in my 35 years in this trade, it happened at speed -- and the force of the engine carried the chain into and out of the timing cover -- it was a terrible mess.

Before you pull the engine, please give me a call so we can go over the possibilities.

John
EngineMGB SuperchargerHey John,



I have a quick question that I just can’t seem to figure out. Ever since I got the super charger installed (on the 76) I smell a fuel smell pretty strong on the driver’s side post acceleration (at speed 65 and above). Nothing at idle or general driving. Just when I put my foot down around 4000 RPM. I am also noticing that I am producing a decent amount of brown smoke out the pipe when this happens. Definitely not blue smoke and doesn’t smell like oil it legitimately smells like gas. Do I just have the carb setup bad? Could it be the original fuel pump is pushing too much fuel? Etc etc. be glad to try anything.




Thoughts?



Thanks in advance,



Josh
Josh,

That gasoline smell is often from the boot -- broken lines around the fuel tank. But, in your situation, the smell, accompanied by unburnt gasoline, means that the carb is overflowing at that point. Where do you have the carb vent routed? It should go to the charcoal canister -- but if there is none, then it should hang down near the bottom of the car. What have you found in the meantime?

John
EngineRocker PostsG'day John,


On dismantling the Head, I found 2 shims under the centre 2 Rocker Posts - are they necessary & if so why.
- I put a straight edge over the top of the head & its flat (I have had the bottom faced).

Cheers
David
David,

it is a mystery to me why the center two rocker stands have those shims. They were added, I believe, at the introduction of the 18V engine in 1972. We always replace them, but I haven't a clue why they're fitted. All the earlier cars seem to work just fine!

John
EngineXPAG Head StudsI have a 1954 Lotus Mark VI fitted with a 1466cc XPAG factory-racing-block, Laystall-Lucas aluminum head, and TC gearbox.

1. The head studs and nuts seem to be 10-1.5 mm. Can I chase the threads with 10-1.5 mm die and tap?

2. What torque would you recommend I use for the head nuts with my aluminum head?
(I'm using a .110" solid copper head gasket to drop its racing days compression of about 12:1 to a more
reasonable 9:1.)

3. Is it true that the XPAG (my engine) and the 1466 XPEG had different bore spacings?

Thank you,

Walter
Walter,


The studs are, in fact, 10mm x 1.5 so you can use a 10x1.5 tap and die to clean the threads on the studs and the nuts.

I would use a torque of 50#, then retorque to 50# when the engine is hot.

The bore spacings remain the same XPAG or XPEG, as the crankshafts are all the same.

Hope this helps.

John
EngineCrankshaft LocktabHi John,



How far need to go crankshaft pulley into the crankshaft? Right now the face of my pulley is 1/8” into the face of the front face of crankshaft shaft. I though the oil thrower it was installed wrong so I removed the front cover to verified the installation of the oil thrower, I verified the F stamped on oil thrower it was looking forward. The only change I did during the rebuilt was to removed the single wheelchain into double wheelchain following the installation instructions of the Haynes Manual. Also the locktab washer for the crankshaft, its supposed to have a notch or a tooth in the inside diameter of the washer. Thank you very much Jorge


Jorge,

The end of the crankshaft sits about 1/8" below the face of the front pulley -- so you have your crank assembled correctly. The lock tab is driven into the half moon detent on the face of the pulley, then folded over that 1 5/16" nut in the front. It is not necessary for the locktab to have a keyway cut into it. Some do, some don't.

Hope this helps!

John
EngineUmbrella Valve GuidesI have purchased your tech book and am putting it to good use rebuilding my TD from the frame up. I have the peter Edney video on rebuilding the XPAG and I see you advise umbrella valve seals too . Tell me is there a corresponding valve guide with a circular lip that engages the seal that is available as well? ( Boy I wish I lived closer ! )
Keith
Keith --

The umbrella seal will remain on the guide from friction -- if you're concerned, have your machine shop chuck up the guides and pin a groove in them.

If you need the Felpro seal number, call me at the shop during tech time -- I cannot locate that number here at the house.

John
EngineLarger BoreHi John,

What is your stand on the larger bore MGB engines? I'm considering this on my next rebuild coming up soon.

Many thanks,

Kevin
Kevin,

Power = torque x rpm. The torque is expensive, the rpm is your foot on the throttle.

You can increase torque by increasing displacement. The cylinder walls will hold at 0.160 over (that's the standard Lotus piston). Another CRITICAL factor is the condition of the cylinder head. Get Sean Brown to port, flow, and polish the head for you. Those two factors should increase your HP to the rear wheels from something around 60 to as much as 75.

Call me during tech time, or come to our "Tuning for Speed" class next weekend (see the info at www.eclecticmotorworks.com)

John
EngineBlue smoke out exhaustHi John,


Talked to you last night about the PCV valve on the '68 Midget and how I thought it was causing the engine to burn oil. Again, after the car has run for about 5 to10 min. alot of blue smoke comes out the exhaust. I also notice when running down the road there is less smoke and a lot more when starting up from a stop.

I have checked the PCV and have found oil inside, spring looks ok, as does the diaphragm and plunger. With the engine running and the PCV opened up, if I push down on the diaphragm with my finger (closing the valve) the vacuum keeps the diaphragm pulled in (down). If I increase the idle the vacuum pulls the diaphragm down into the valve housing. However, when I clean out the oil and put the PCV back together it takes longer for the smoke to appear. The oil filler cap (plastic) is not plugged as I can suck or blow air through it. Ug! The separator (can) is not clogged as I can also blow air back through the hose. The hoses to and from the valve are not cracked, matter of fact they look new. I have also noticed when I put my finger over the port coming from the separator there is, I think, a strong vacuum and a small amount of air pressure coming out of the hose from the separator. You did mention compression rings. Can't find what the speck is (psi). Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Roger
Roger,

Another option here for a temporary fix -- is to leave the hose from the separator loose -- vent it to the ground -- and to plug up the PCV valve. Then drive it and see if it continues to smoke.

Smoking at idle and taking off is a tell tale sign of bad valve guides -- I don't think this is the problem, but try disconnecting the valve. In the end, it's probably the rings. You can check for compression and you can expect to find a consistent compression + or - 10%. I have no "real" or "proper" figures, as the compression indicated is a function of the gauge, the speed of the engine, the heat of the engine, and the valve lash.

Hope this helps!

John
EngineCam TimingHello John,

I have a stock 1971 MGB that appears to have jumped a tooth on the timing chain. The engine will start and run but has a pretty bad shake in it (no knocks) and is down on power.

I was pulling away from a light when there was a "ba-bing" noise (sounded more like a spring breaking?) and the roughness shake was immediately apparent. I dove the car home and checked the timing. The timing light showed that it had retarded itself about 20 degrees (no marks on that side to be exact) so I put it back to 14 degrees by the light. The distributor wasn't loose and the dwell on the points was correct before and after whatever happened to move the timing.

My multiple questions are:

1. Have you ever heard of a double row chain jumping? (crude check of the slop in the timing chain shows about 12 degrees of slop without the motor running--assumption that the tensioner isn't pressurized when turning the engine with a ratchet,,,)

2. Is the crank pulley a solid steel piece or a harmonic balancer that may have slipped?

3. Is it easier to raise the engine up to get the crank pulley off or is it smarter to drop the steering rack?

4. Other people have speculated that something in the flywheel/clutch may have broken free, creating the imbalance to put the shake in the engine. (Shake is there at idle with no forward movement of the car)

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer.

Best regards,

Jim
Jim,

In my nearly forty years of servicing MGs, I've yet to see a timing chain slip, so I doubt that is the problem. There is a method for checking cam timing:

Set the #1 inlet valve to 0.060" instead of the normal 0.015". Roll the engine over, by hand, slipping a piece of paper between the valve and the rocker. When the timing mark hits TDC, the rocker should "just" grab the paper. Don't forget to reset the clearance.

Check the compression.

If it IS a tooth off, the engine simply won't run well at all, if at all.

Let me know what you find!

John
EngineGasoline in the OilJohn,

Need to ask for you expert advise and opinion. I'm having a problem with the B.
I haven't really driven it since the trip to Michigan and went to start it this weekend and it is smoke very badly out of the exhaust but even worst oil seems to be coming from every imaginable area of the motor. I check the oil and it is extremely high, well over the full line. When running I have no oil pressure. Any thoughts other than what I already know...something very very bad seems to be happening? Your knowledge is valuable would love to know what you think.



Safety Fast,



Les
Les!

It seems to me that you've got gasoline in your oil -- hence the overfill, the low oil pressure, and the smoke. Do two things, Les: drain the gas/oil from the sump and refill it; disconnect your carb(s) from the charcoal canister and try to purge the gasoline vapors from the canister.

Give me a call, Les, and let me know how it's working out!

John
EngineHi John,


I have a question regarding oil changes for my 74 MGB. I live in Orillia Ontario and drive the car only about 200 miles a year. (for the time being until my 2 year old can come with me!) With this mileage in mind how often should I change the engine oil and filter?



Thanks for your help!



Sincerely,



Andrew

Andrew!

The rule is: change the oil just before storage. This prevents the acids in the oil from eating away at the bearing material. But, gosh, after only 200 miles a season, I'm sure that an annual oil change is probably excessive. But I'd do it every other or every third year if I were you.


John
EngineMGB Oil Change RuleHi John,


I have a question regarding oil changes for my 74 MGB. I live in Orillia Ontario and drive the car only about 200 miles a year. (for the time being until my 2 year old can come with me!) With this mileage in mind how often should I change the engine oil and filter?



Thanks for your help!



Sincerely,



Andrew

Andrew!

The rule is: change the oil just before storage. This prevents the acids in the oil from eating away at the bearing material. But, gosh, after only 200 miles a season, I'm sure that an annual oil change is probably excessive. But I'd do it every other or every third year if I were you.


John
EngineSearching for Supercharger for MGAJohn,

I am looking for a Judson supercharger for my 1961 MGA 1600 coupe. Can you help? Or point me in the right direction?

Thanks.

Jim
Jim!

The only reason you would choose the Judson over the new Moss one is because you want to add only period devices and accessories. The Moss blower is SO VERY MUCH better than the Judson -- hands down!

If you haven't already, contact Carl Heideman at Eclectic Motorworks in Holland, Michigan. He knows the name of the US expert on Judson units.


John
EngineModern Oil Lacking?Dear John


No doubt you are aware of the problem being talked about, that the formula for modern oil is lacking various ingredients considered essential for our older cars? I am the original owner 1974.5 MGB GT (my only car/regular driver), and I have just had a new engine installed in her; I'm particularly anxious not to ruin it! I have heard various suggestions - add STP; add something called "Compcam"; use "Red Line" synthetic oil.......what are your thoughts?

Whenever you have time, I'd be very interested to know your opinion, please?

Many thanks.


Ruth
Ruth!

You SURE want to have enough ZDDP in your oil at startup! Where to find it? Red Line has enough; Castrol makes a racing oil with enough; or you can call David Anton at APT (or contact them through APT-FAST.com) as he sells excellent cams and must have this stuff on the shelf.

I am still uncertain as to the veracity of the original complaints and if they are as dire as some state, what the proper plan of attack is. My Castrol rep tells me that their racing oil is good.

Hope this little bit helps.

John
EngineSuitable Replacement Valve Stem SealJohn,
Hi. I hope you had great holidays. I haven't sent you a question in a few years, but I sure would like to know what valve stem seals your shop uses when rebuilding MGB cylinder heads. I've heard the little o-rings that came w/ my rebuild kit aren't the way to go. Any recommendations with manufacturer and part number would be very helpful at this point in my project.

thanks in advance.

- Dan



Dan

We use Felpro SS 70373 which fit some sort of Chevy truck. They are
the perfect replacement for those little O rings, which, while better than
nothing, just don't do a very good job.

Be sure to have your machine shop open the bronze-silicone valve
guides (if you're using those) to 0.002 instead of 0.0005 or the valve stems
will gall.

Hope this helps!

John

EngineMGB Oil LeakI currently have three MGBs, a 1968, 1978 and a 1980. On two of the MGs I am having issues with dripping oil from the bottom of the overdrive. (The cover that hold the wire screen filter). I have replaced both of the screen filter/gaskets and I continue to get seepage through the small bolts that hold the bottom plate of the filter cover. ) have tried using Teflon tape with no success) I dare not over tighten the small machine bolts due to possibility of stripping out the threads. This dripping is causing my wife to give me grief about stains in the garage and on the driveways. Short of using a sealer what would be your guidance? Is there a particular sealer you may suggest or is there something I should be looking for or am doing something wrong? This is a common, passive leak. Some of the suppliers were, for a time, providing a low quality mesh screen (not the heavy gray gasket material laminated around the screen but a very light tan colored paper type of filter) -- and those are more prone to leak. You can reduce the leaking by surfacing the bottom plate with fine sandpaper so that it is flat to start. I use grease on the filter faces. You can use RTV silicone sealant on the threads of the bolts -- a liberal amount of sealant - which will ooze into the cavities and stop most of the leaks. You can use that same type of silicone sealant on the face of the gasket/filter, but use it sparingly, and in lieu of grease.

Another option is to purchase several large size trays, like pizza pans, and fill them with oil absorbent or kitty litter. This will pick up the oil before it hits the concrete in the garage. Dish detergent (Cascade) will work well to remove the existing stains from concrete.
EngineEngine Break InCould you please direct me to info about the break in of a newly rebuilt engine. I am having trouble finding any. There are a couple of things here. First, make sure you have added extra ZDDP into the oil. This will protect the cam during run in. Then, get oil pressure BEFORE you start up the engine -- FOR SURE! Remove the plugs and spin the engine until the oil pressure gauge blips. I always leave the valves very loose -- something around 0.020 to 0.030 during the run in process. Run it at 2-3000 rpm (whatever the cam mfg asks you to do) for about half an hour. Then re-torque the head and adjust the valves to 0.012 or 0.015, whichever the cam mfg asks for. Never walk away from the engine -- that's just asking for trouble!
EngineCam Duration, Lift, and Timinghello, I have a problem, what cam duration, lift and timing would work for my engine setup? The cam will be reground to my specs. The lifters are the later short lifters with tubular push rods.It is bored .060 over, with the dished pistons, the rods are lightened and polished with ARP hardware, everything is balanced and the flywheel has been lightened some (but I don't remember how much). It will be using a long center branch header with a 1 7/8" or 2" exhaust into a Supertrap. I have a pair of 40DCOE Webers for it. Any ideas on baseline jetting just to get it started? Also what is the minimum clearance between the cam and the rod bolts?The rods are not the angle cut early rods. Remember that the crossflow head does not flow better than the original cast iron head until you exceed about 5000 rpm -- after that, the crossflow is really the nuts. Therefore, it's not any better for "regular" driving. Purchase your cam for the rpm range you'll be driving the car. If you are going to be using the car on the street, then I wouldn't go much more than about 270 duration. You can ask for a little higher lift (original spec is 0.265 at the cam), but the more the lift, the shorter the life of the cam. Don't forget to use ZDDP ad an additive when you change the oil. If I can find the chart, I'll include the camshaft specification sheet today -- if I cannot find it, I'll try to send it along tomorrow.
EngineMGB Rear Oil Seal Leak Per our conversation this morning, appreciate if you could email the
information in regards to the 1971 MGB rear crank oil seal replacement and
the reason for the engine oil leak from the transmission housing (*behind
the oil sump cover).

Also, do you have a copy of the repair/shop manual on a PDF file that you
could email me?

Hope I could replace the rear crank oil seal without removing the crank
shaft. the engine No# 18GB-U-H-67858.
There are two reasons that the rear oil seal is leaking on your MGB engine.
The inside of the engine may be pressurized because the front tappet cover
ventilation hose is plugged; or the seal/crankshaft may be faulty.

If the seal is faulty, the crank may be faulty too. If the seal surface on
the crankshaft is grooved, repair it with a speedi-sleeve from Chicago
Rawhide -- CR 99350. Install the speedi-sleeve backwards to the
instructions.

To gain access to the seal you will have to remove the engine from the car.
Remove the clutch, remove the flywheel, and remove the rear engine bearing
plate. You will need a new gasket for the rear of the engine. You should fit a new clutch.
EngineMGB Valve GuideHope you can help me. I had the head rebuilt on my 69 MGB with harden valve seats. The engine ran fine for a few minutes then started skipping. I removed the valve cover only to find a valve stuck open. I removed the head and took it back to the machine shop. The machine shop is a reputable shop with an excellent reputation. He checked the head and polished the valve stems and checked the valve guides. I reinstalled the head and it worked perfect for about 5 miles then it started skipping again. I removed the valve cover only to find another valve stuck open. The valves are adjusted cold to the specification called out in the owner’s manual. I have removed the head again and plan to take it back to the machine shop. The oil was changed as part of the head work and the engine averaged around 60 PSI of oil pressure. I have been working with MGB’s for many years and have never had this problem. Have you every experienced this problem?

______________________________________

Thanks for your assistance. I spoke to the machine shop about the head and he told me that he had to replace all the exhaust valves because they were rubbing the guides. The new guides were the cast iron type with a smooth guide surface. He told me that he plans to cut ridges in the guides and taper the lower part of the guides (apparently they were flat on the bottom). The new guides were from Federal Mogul and appeared to be cut differently from previous guides for MGB according to the machine shop. He also plans to open the valve guides some and install the small o-ring on the valve stem. Hopefully this will correct my problem.
The problem you have is with the valve guide, not the valve. There are two types of valve guides: cast iron and manganese bronze, the latter type are a coppery color. The cast iron guides require half a thousandths clearance between the valve stem and the inside of the guide; the manganese bronze require four times that, or 0.002". The little O rings are not sufficient to control oil consumption, so with the manganese bronze valves especially, use FELPRO umbrella oil seals SS 70373. Your problem is not uncommon at all -- you only need to open up the valve guides some.

______________________________________

Do NOT use the small o rings! Use the FELPRO SS 70373 umbrella seals.
EngineBugeye Sprite EngineI have had my 1959 Bugeye Sprite since 2003 and have done nearly all my own repairs. This winter I am pulling the engine and transmission to install a ribcase in place of the smooth case. With the engine out (0.948 liter) I am inquiring what the cost may be to have the engine evaluated, cleaned, painted and all gaskets and seals replaced to prevent (preferably) oil leaks. As of present, the engine operates admirably, but I want to improve its reliability. This is not a racing car but a hobby car and reliability and economy is the goal. I have checked the compression and it is not significantly out of spec. The car does not burn oil. A separate cost to have rings replaced and the valves/seats improved would be appreciated.

The condition of an engine is a function of four factors: Compression; Condition of the camshaft; Oil Pressure; and Oil Consumption.

With the engine out of the car, the oil pressure cannot be determined. With the engine out of the car, oil consumption cannot be measured. The compression is easily checked. The condition of the cam only requires that the rocker assemble is removed from the head and a dial indicator used to check the cam lift.

The bugeye has several areas that can leak oil passively; several from which it can leak under pressure. The front seal was originally felt -- a rubber lip seal is the best to fit there. The valve cover gasket can leak easily -- but that's just a cork gasket replacement. The side covers can leak -- again, those are cork seals. The sump gasket never leaks unless it was installed incorrectly. The rear engine seal is a very different matter altogether.

The rear seal is a slinger -- a scroll thread on the crank that screws the oil back into the engine. To ensure this is working correctly, the engine must be completely disassembled, the bottom end of the engine align honed or align bored, and new bearings installed.

Offhand, a "complete engine" rebuild would be in the neighborhood of $4500.
EngineMGB Moss Oil Filter Adapter I have a Moss Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter that came installed on my 66 MGB
when I bought it. I'm having trouble with the hex bolt interfering with
the
top of the filter and jamming the filter into the hex bolt. Then, it's
very
difficult to remove the filter, and when you eventually do, the hex bolt
comes out with it. This problem is documented on the web at MGAGURU.com.

I'm trying to use a NAPA 1516 (Wix 51516).

Just wondering if you know of another filter element that works better
with
the Moss Adapter?
I am no fan of those spin on adaptors, that's for sure! The best
way to take care of this problem is to take the adaptor to a friend or shop
with a lathe and reduce the thickness of the nut. Our experience has been
that the nut holds the filter proud of the sealing surface and allows the
filter to leak!
EngineBearing WiggleSince 1980 I own (and sometimes drive...) several Morris Minor's, Austin A40's and MG Midget's; and never had a problem with front bearings, till recently, as my A40 developed (probably due to electrocemical corrosion in the metal after a very long idling period) a rumbling in the left front wheel bearing. I orded a new set of bearings (ball bearings, open on one side, you can take out the inner races) from a reputable source, put them in the car ("thrust" on the outer race facing to each other, not forgetting the distance piece), but now I have a more than noticeable backlash in the hub because there is no way to adjust the bearing's preload, like you have shown in the MGB's hub with the aid of adding/extracting shims.

Of course I do not want to waist your time, and I can only please you to give me a hint - I had believed from myself that I know everything on these A-series equipped cars, because I had done all thinkable work on them...but this time I am really out of ideas. Or should I simply install a new set again and say to myself the old ones were defective...but I like to know the reason! Here in Austria the people who worked on those cars (or at least owned one) are long gone, so there is nobody to ask...
It is not uncommon for the outer race to wiggle in the housing. The quick fix for that is to use a prick punch and make about 200 little dimples on the inner hub surface.

If the bearings do not fit closely enough together, then remove CAREFULLY some of the length from the distance tube. If you take off too much, you'll have to find a shim to make up the difference. This is a tedious method since you have to assemble, measure or feel, disassemble, shorten the piece, reassemble...... Use oil when you are setting it up -- grease it only when you are done.
EngineAnti Run On Valve The B was running fine when I drove to my friends house to have him help
me
install a Pertronix electronic ignition. When then decided to take the
distributor completely out and really give it a good cleaning. In the
process of removing the distributor we accidentally broke off the nipple
connection to the anti run-on valve. To be honest I am not certain the
electrical connections to the top of the anti-run on valve were connected
for many years so I was not too concerned that we had lost the nipple.
My
friend felt bad about breaking off the plastic nipple and he decided to
at
least correct the rather loose wires at the top. During this process of
getting good electrical connection he noted that the switch (noted in the
photograph at about 2:00) got extremely HOT so much so that he
disconnected
power to the switch (also in the photo).

My questions, which I am willing to call in if your would prefer, are:

1. What could be causing the valve switch to get so hot?

2. The anti run on valve is about $90.00 from Moss. Is this something
that
is really needed or just part of the 70s attempt to satisfy emissions
standards ? As I mentioned I really think the electrical connections were
not good before my recent activity.

3 The B now runs very rough, and is sluggish with frequent backfire
through
the carbs. Is this most likely a result form the Pertronix install, the
lack of connection to the Anti-run on valve, or possibly all or none with
other causes?

3.4 My next steps will be to isolate any vacuum leaks and the re-balance
the
carbs. Does the install of the Pertronix mandate a re-balance of the
carbs
in and of itself ? Do I need to wait until after I receive and install
the
new anti run-on equipment before doing the carb balance?
The anti run on valve wiring is HOT only when the key is OFF --
unless the two in-line fuses beneath the fusebox have been connected
crisr-cross (slate with brown / brown with slate). The switch is grounded
ONLY when you have oil pressure -- unless the oil pressure switch is the
normally closed type (as used on oil pressure lights).

Set your timing at 32 BTDC maximum with the vacuum disconnected.

The anti run-on valve is not critical -- sometimes you can make a
fix by heating a 3/16" section of copper tube (or 1/8") and pushing it
into
the hole that was once the nipple. Allow it to cool. Then replace the
hose. connected or not it will not cause the car to run poorly.
Engine1969 MGB Spin On Oil FilterWe met briefly at MG2008 this past summer and during the rolling tech session you suggested I change my oil filter from the inverted Tecalemit cannister to a spin-on type. I seem to recall that the benefit for converting would be faster time to reach proper oil pressure. Right now, when I start the car, the pressure hangs low for 5-6 seconds, then goes up to normal (60-75lbs) at 1000 RPM idle.

I have a 1969 MGB and in looking at the various catalogs, I'm somewhat confused as they don't mention a provision for an oil cooler (which I have on the car). The Moss catalog lists P/N: 460-910 as the filter head and my question is.....will this have a connection for the oil cooler hose? I'm probably making this more complicated than need be, but just want to be sure.

Also, is this type of job doable for a relative novice such as myself?
The oil filter setup you have is the worst one. You would be better off going to a scrap yard and finding one. If you can find one on EBay it will be better quality than the one from Moss. However, if there is not one on EBay, the one from Moss would be better quality than the one you have.
EngineSmog SystemI purchased a 1974 1/2 MGBGT ALL ORIGINAL AND IT WAS NOT RUNNING TOO WELL BUT WAS RUNNING. I DECIEDED AFTER TRYING TO TUNE IT THAT I WOULD HAVE A VALVE JOB DONE. OF COURSE I TOOK OFF ALL THE EMISSION CONTROLS IN THE PROCESS AND SINCE ALL THE ORIGINAL HOSES WERE CRACKED AND SPLIT I DECIDED TO LEAVE THEM OFF FOR THE TIME BEING. I LEFT THE ANTI RUNON VALVE ON HOWERVER

I GOT MY HEAD BACK AND INSTALLED IT AND ADJUSTED THE VALVE TAPPET CLEARANCE AND PUT THE SU HIF4 CARBS BACK ON.

I STARTED THE ENGINE AND AFTER ABOUT 30 SECONDS I SHUTS OFF AND IT SEEMS TO BE FOR LACK OF FUEL BUT IVE TRIED EVERYTHING I CAN AND IT STILL SHUTS OFF MAYBE YOU HAVE THE ANSWER

PROBLEM NUMBER TWO IS THE WARNING HORN GOES OF UNDER THE DASH I TH INK IT MAY BE THE SEATBELT ALARM . HOW DO I JUMPER THIS OUT. BRYSON LESLEY SAID U HAVE A QUICK FIX.



The seat belt warning buzzer is the easier of these two problems. Remove the column covers, and pull the purplish wire from the exposed spade terminal on the side or bottom of the key switch. Now the buzzer will be silent.

The smog system is composed of the air pump, the injector rail, and the gulp valve. Block the injector holes with 7/16-20 Allen set screws -- it looks good like that. Remove the gulp valve and bracket. Remove the 90 degree fitting in the center of the intake manifold -- tap that 1/4" NPT and fit an Allen pipe plug -- then it looks finished and won't leak air.

The ELC or Evaporative Loss Control system is helpful to keep in place. I believe this may also be the source of your problems. Let's use the charcoal canister as the starting point. There are three lines at the top of the canister. One loops to a steel line that goes back to the gas tank. Make sure the line is free into the tank -- blow through it and you should feel air/fuel escaping through the filler neck. One runs over to the HIF carbs, to the float bowls. Make sure that line is clear. One fits to the valve cover. Make sure that line is not cracked.

During engine operation, fresh air enters the tube below the anti run-on valve, travels through that valve and into the bottom of the canister. It is drawn out of the canister and into the engine, then out of the engine and into the carburetters (from the front tappet inspection cover hose). In this way, the charcoal within the canister is continually being washed with fresh air and the unburned hydrocarbons (gasoline) is purged from the charcoal. If the canister plugs up then the engine places a vacuum in the gasoline tank and in the float bowls and the car will quit running. That's just what the anti run-on valve does when you turn the key off.

The anti run-on valve is HOT when the key is off and is grounded only when there's oil pressure -- that's in those two to ten seconds after you turn the car off. So the valve only works for a couple of seconds. You can hear is CLICK off after you've turned the key off and the engine quits running. When the valve operates, it blocks the free flow of air and the canister begins to evacuate. Further, by the valve's operation, manifold vacuum is routed to the canister which creates a tremendous depression. That vacuum is transferred over to the carbs, on top of the gasoline in the float bowl. Now the vacuum created inside the carb at the jet is not enough to draw gasoline from the float bowl and the engine stops dead.

I suspect this may be occurring to your car right now -- not properly -- but from incorrectly connected hoses or a plugged canister.

EngineNew Motor Oil As you know, several reports have appeared recently in British car publications (e.g., MGCars.org.uk) stating that reformulations of commonly used motor oils are resulting in very serious damage to our British engines.

Please let me have your thoughts about his issue, and your recommendations on how I and other MG owners may deal with this problem.
I have spoken with a rep from Castrol; I have Googled "ZDDP engine oil;" and I am reading as much as I can, as quickly as I can. I do believe that I'll include my thoughts on the matter in my next UML mailer. Right now, it would appear that this compound is critical at new engine break-in (hence the special grease provided by the cam manufacturers), and less important as the engine ages.

The company rep from Castrol told me "not to worry," but that didn't set my mind at ease.
More information follows.
EngineSnaped Timing ChainCan a snapped timing chain ever physically jam a crank shaft from rotating?

It is my last hope before I start pulling the engine.
If the chain has snapped, you usually have some free movement of the crank, maybe not 360, but some. The chain cannot snap by itself, and in the ONE case I've seen of a snapped chain in my 35 years in this trade, it happened at speed -- and the force of the engine carried the chain into and out of the timing cover -- it was a terrible mess.

Before you pull the engine, please give me a call so we can go over the possibilities.
EngineChanging Valve GuidesIn the Bentley Manual it states that you can replace the valve guides by driving them down into the combustion side of the head. After 30 some years of these parts being in the head. Just how easily is it to remove these guides with a drift without damaging the head? Would a hydraulic press work better?There are two reasons why I would like to remove the guides myself. First I live on the Outer Banks of North Carolina where there are no machine shops. The nearest machine shop is around 70 miles one way. The second is the price given to me. $350 and I supply the guides. I should have added a third reason. Which is the workmanship down here isn't the greatest. If you want something done right you need to do it yourself. Which leads to a good self education in the skill trades. Why people down here except the poor workmanship I do no! t understand. I did take an engine I am planning to rebuild to one of the best (I am told by our club) machine shop up in Virginia Beach, Va for cleaning, cam bearing replacement and to have the crank reground. That was March 7, 2007. As of today I am still waiting for it to be done. I have never done any cylinder head work myself -- I've always sent it off to our machine shop. The machining is a critical process, as you well know from the descriptions you've given. We do not have the machinery to rework the cylinder heads ourselves. I would suggest that you find a good shop for this work -- so I'll make a pitch for our services. We (with our machine shop) can completely rework a cylinder head for an MGB for about $550. Whoa! That's $200 more than your local shop charges. Here's why: the head is baked (not boiled in caustic soda) and then shot peened to remove all the external scale and carbon; the guides are pressed out; the new silicone-bronze guides are pressed in and reamed; new seats are installed on the exhaust (hardened, to prevent valve recession); the head is crack checked (that's probably just after the cleaning!); the head is surfaced; and there is a triple angle cut placed on the valve seat -- plus there are umbrella oil seals installed to prevent the oil from leaking down the guides. This is a common and frequent repair for us. For an additional $300, the shop will port and polish the head to give you more power. The workmanship is excellent and we're only a UPS shipment away.

If you are doing this job yourself, you might consider not even changing the valve guides but simply installing the Felpro Seals SS 70373. If you do install new silicone-bronze guides, be sure to have them opened to 0.002" (instead of 0.0005" as the workshop manual suggests). New valves are not necessary and sodium valves, stainless valves, etc are simply not worth the extra money. It's those hardened seats which make all the difference!

I would use a press and a shouldered mandrel to remove the guides -- but I would not be concerned about the time they've been in place -- that shouldn't make a difference.
EngineMG T-type Manifold ColorI have a question that I thought that you could help me with. The T Type exhaust manifold
that we generally have aluminized, getting that white color, what was the coating originally?
Why was it there? Many british cars did not have a coating.
When asked about the "original" color on the manifolds, I usually reply "rust!" But, you're right, the original T type manifolds were aluminized. We've found that Jet Hot Coating is a really excellent method of protecting the manifold -- and making it look really great. There are a variety of colors from black to silver to purple. You can Google them and get an address. We just got some back for a Jag XKE which were originally porcelainized. This jet hot coating looks SO much better and will last far, far longer!
EngineMGB GT Exhaust UpgradeI am looking for advice on which exhaust system to
replace the Moss SS system I have on my 67BGT. I am
experiencing gobs of back pressure from my present
system(it can knock down walls at three feet from
the exhaust tip).
It has been suggested that replacing with a bigger
bore I will enjoy better acceleration and power.
Which of the systems do you think best and where do
you recommend I shop?
Ansa, Monza, Peco??
You won't easily believe what I have to say here, but Carl Heideman's numerous dynamometer pulls bear this out: "Big Bore" exhausts make nary a difference in power.

But, for looks, for sound, and for durability, the ANSA!

For power: a good tune-up; electronic ignition (2 hp); MSD ignition (as much as 2hp); port and polish on the head (as much as 10 hp); the Moss blower (30 hp). These all are about $100/hp.
EngineEngine InstallationI am currently having my engine rebuilt by Kent Prather, stage 2 to 3. I am very excited to get it back soon he is almost done. Any suggestion you may have upon install would be greatly appreciated. Kent will put the engine on the dyno and then it should be ready to go.
Make sure that Kent uses grease on both sides of the cork sump gasket. You will have to remove that sump to insert the engine into the car, unless the body is off and the toeboard is out. Grease on both sides allows the sump to fall away easily once the bolts are removed without damaging the gasket. I know! I had the sump off this one twice!
EngineMGB Sidecover GasketI've recently (within the last two year) completed a 99.9% restoration, and dont like the way my front tappet cover is affixed. Since purchasing the car in '92, I have had multiple oil leaks, yet after rebuilding the engine only the front tappet cover has leaked more than other spots.

I replaced the origonal front cover with a more planer unit purchased from Motorhead (Fairfax, VA) and used excessive amounts of RTV...but I'm afraid if I hit that breather hose, I'll knock the cover loose.

Do you sell a unitary tappet cover replacement for both covers?
Funny your email should arrive right now. We ALWAYS change the side cover gaskets when the engine is out of the car. The trick here is to use a THIN cork gasket -- made for the MGA. Those thick cork or thick rubber gaskets are simply not suitable for the front cover. We get our gaskets from Moss or Engle. We use a bit of clear silicone RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket. On a 77 MGB, you can do the job in place without removing the manifold (although with some difficulty!).
EngineEngine Break-InI saw your pictures of the engine break-in and was wondering how you kept the engine on top of the table – without it roaming all over? I noticed the vice grips towards the front of the oil filter and was thinking maybe you had some mounting system to clamp on to. It would seem that the engine would want to jump around but it doesn't -- it just sits there. Oh, I suppose if you let it run for a while it could, possible, move around -- but just idling it doesn't move at all. If you were going to run an engine on a bench as this for 15 minutes or an hour you could simply strap it down. But, really, I don't think you'll have a problem. I know, it's counter-intuitive.
EngineMain BearingI am rebuilding a 52 TD engine and my machine shop is needing the main bearing housing bore size and what tolerance is allowed . This is for the actual main cap and block casting. The housing diameter is 56.54mm or 2.2177-2.2185".

But the IMPORTANT information is the slinger info -- as that will be what keeps the engine from discharging copious quantities of oil into the bell housing:

Groove on crankshaft: 58.75 -.03 -.07 mm or 2.313 (figure 2.312")
Housing bore 59.00 +.05 -0 or 2.323 (use 2.3185).
EngineTD Valve Angle am rebuilding a 52 TD head with new steelite valves and standard guides and competition springs. My question is I have read a couple different oppinons about valve angle . Should it be kept at the 30 degree angle or cut to the 45 degree angle or what is your best opinnon. Thanks again for your help .

I would keep the 30 degree valve face but make sure your machine shop gives it a triple cut to allow the gasses to sweep around the valve seat with less restriction. But, for the record, I don't do our own valve jobs -- we send them out. We've had any number of heads -- XPAG / XPEG -- ported and polished. I've never asked my machine shop about changing the face. But, offhand, to get a 45 degree face, you'd end up cutting away some of the outside diameter or you'd have to reduce the valve margin -- neither one of them a good idea.
Engine'79 Midget Manifold NutsMy current issue is this... I am in the process of removing the intake manifold on my 1979 Midget. I can't seem to get at those lower manifold nuts. Precisely what wrench can I use to get them loose? Do I need a specialized tool?

All I can suggest is blood, toil, sweat, and, perhaps, some tears! Use an open end 9/16" wrench and move those nuts 1/16 of a turn at a time -- whatever -- until they come loose. Be sure to chase the threads of the stud and nut, and use plenty of grease when you reassemble so that the job goes quickly in the other direction. I assume you've removed the carburetter and the heat shield, as those will certainly slow you down. Let me know how it's worked out!
EngineMG Oil LeakI have a minor problem that I'm hoping you can help me with. My MG, like most tends to "mark her territory" as most MG's do. my problem compared to most is minor in that she only drips from 2 places, the bottom drain plug on the tranny and the drain plug on the rear end. Since these plugs have no shoulders on them do you have a suggestion for stopping the leaks? The only thing I can thgink of is plumber's pipe dope. Don't be too hasty. Follow me through on this. The engine leaks everywhere: from the valve cover filler, the valve cover, the side covers, the front seal, the front engine bearing plate, the rear seal...... About the only place it doesn't leak is the drain plug. What??? They why is the oil on the plug? The oil moves down and back, from gravity and the force of the wind, and ends up dangling from the drain plugs.

Here is a method to find the REAL leaks. Buy the NAPA oil dye which has a Balkamp part number. Pour this into the oil. Use a black light and watch for the leaks. If it's just some slow, passive leaks, you'll have to run the car for a number of miles and then examine it. You'll find the real leaks above the drain plug.

However, the drain plug uses a copper washer (6K638). The drain in the gearbox is a taper pipe thread. The gearbox plug you can silicone or use some Teflon pipe tape on.
EngineMGB Valve LiftYou've answered every question I have about diagnosing problems in my MGB's engine, save one. As I understand it, one of the things I need to check out is the valve lift. I'm not sure how to go about this. Can you clarify this?
The cam lift, on a normal MGB camshaft, is about 1/4". This is amplified through the rocker arm ratio (about 1 1/2 to 1) for a total valve lift of about 3/8". The cam guys will tell you that 0.010" wear on a lobe is too great. That works out to 0.014" at the valve. You cannot even begin to see such a slight difference. BUT, if you can see that one valve is opening less than the others, then the lobe is terribly worn. If the valve is an inlet, you will be underpowered at speed; if the valve is an exhaust, you'll burn the valve (and head) soon. It is VERY uncommon to see any difference in the lift simply by watching them bob up and down, with the valve cover off, at a very low idle -- but IF you can see a difference, it's cam time.
Engine'74 Midget Engine ColorCan you tell me, or tell me where I can find, what the correct engine
color is for my '74 Midget (1275). I seem to be able to find body
colors, but not engine color.
Black. PPG DAR9000. Black. Gloss, semi-gloss, flat? Well, not flat.
Gloss sure looks nice on the valve cover. The earlier engines (prior to
about 1972) were red, a deep maroon red, but the later engines were BLACK!
EngineEngine BearingI have an 1800 3 main engine on which the pilot
bearing spun in the crank. I do not know if the
bearing absorbed the wear or the crank shaft.
What is the diameter of each supposed to be?
I have ordered a replacement bearing from the
usual suspects but I am concerned that it may
be a loose fit in the crank.
You can hold the new spigot bush in place with Locktite. You can scar the inside of the hole with a prick punch and then use Locktite. The bushing should be oilite which is constructed of powdered brass and oil, pressed into shape. Therefore, it's not possible to sweat solder on the outside. Well, that said, you can tin the outside but then you'll have to soak the bushing in hot oil for an hour or so to ensure that it is fully lubricated.
EngineHot Valve Adjustment A little background:, I've owned a 76-TR6 since March (my first British car) and I've been improving the carbs, ignition, etc. over the past few months.

I love working on this car!

I read the 6-Pack forum and everything else I can get my ears and hands on. I especially like your You Tube videos! (my next toy will be an MG)!

Here is the question: Last month I adjusted the valves. The general consensus on the 6Pack forum was to adjust the valves cold. I believe the Haynes Manual also says to adjust cold. After reviewing your video about adjusting valves (where you mention to do it hot), I am still wondering which is best. I know we are talking about a very small difference here, but I am, by trade, a structural engineer and somewhat anal. So I would like to know which is best.

My car is stock, as far as I know, so there is no aftermarket cam in it.

Your thoughts?
The valve lash changes by about 0.001" between stone cold and really hot. Personally, I do not believe that it makes any difference if the valves are set at 0.010" or at 0.012" or at 0.015" as long as they are all set the same. The thickness of a human hair or two cannot affect the valve operation very much! From my viewpoint, the important thing is that the valve lash is the same when the engine is running -- hence my advice to adjust the valves when they're hot.

When adjusting a six cylinder, I watch the first six valves and adjust the rear six. When that's done, I watch the rear six and adjust the front six. Watching the movement of all twelve valves is too much for me! If you watched the YouTube video about adjusting the valves on a TF, which I believe I do in about five minutes, then adjusting the valves in your TR6 shouldn't take more than about eight!
EngineMGB Engine In An MGA
EngineEngine Ticking Now I have an issue for which I could use some direct wisdom.

Here's my problem: I have a '62 MGA MkII with an intermittent, loud
ticking sound that occurs most noticeably at idle, after the car has
warmed up, and seems to disappear at driving RPMs. It's not a 100%
steady ticking, but rather "skips a beat" every now and again. To
start, valve clearances are all as should be, .015 when hot, and
compression is good: 1=180, 2=160, 3=160, 4=160. A timing light shows a
steady 20 degrees BTDC at idle.

At first it was difficult to determine the origination, but I was pretty
sure it was coming from the front of the block. After perusing the Q&A
database, I suspected it might have been a bad pushrod, but further
investigation (using a .010 feeler between the rocker and valve stem
while the car was idling) seemed to rule this out, as there was no
difference in the sound.

Next, using a mechanics stethoscope, I poked around the block and then
ended up by the water pump (having recently installed a new radiator, I
was a little worried something didn't get flushed out before I installed
it and was now living in the water pump). Then I landed on the timing
chain cover and BINGO, there it was. In retrospect, that is pretty much
exactly what it sounds like: a moving chain flapping against something.

So, while I probably seem to have tracked it down, I'm still left with a
few quandaries before I rip out the radiator. First of all, does this
seem likely, for the chain to get loose enough to contact the cover?
And would this suggest the tensioner is kaput? Should I just plan on
replacing the chain and tensioner? And though this is relatively
painless, is there anything else you think it might possibly be? I saw
somewhere else in the database some mention of piston slap, which had
similar symptoms (louder at idle, disappearing at higher RPMs), and
sounds much more dire.
You could take the fan belt off to make sure that its not the water pump or
generator, but it sounds like its the timing chain. There is no substitute
to calling the shop for help. John has his technical hour from 1-2 EST
Monday - Friday.
EngineLow Oil PressureAs a relatively new owner of a 1957 MGA 1500, I’ve found some conflicting information on the subject of oil pressure and was hoping you could help clarify it. It seems that most people I’ve spoken with have recently rebuilt engines so they aren’t necessarily a realistic reference for one that’s got a lot of years behind it. While I’m sure it’s inevitable that I will need to have it rebuilt, I would like to drive the car for at least this season, if possible, if for no other reason than to recharge my enthusiasm after far too many surprises while trying to make the car reasonably roadworthy (but still not much to look at).

I am using Castrol GTX 20W/50 oil with a Fram filter (Moss spin-on conversion). My dual gauge is new, which I hope means it is reasonably accurate. On startup, the oil pressure is around 65 psi. The oil pressure stays reasonably high for some time after the coolant temperature has reached a normal level (180 deg. thermostat), but by the time I’ve run it for maybe a half hour, it is down to around 20 psi or slightly below at 1000 rpm idle and at 40 psi or slightly below at 2500 rpm. I haven’t had it out in temperatures above about 70 deg. so far, so I’m imagining things getting worse as summer gets here. I’m not sure at what point the alarm bells should be going off in my head though. In the original workshop manual, they say the oil pressure should not be less than 10 psi at idle and it should not be below 30 psi at “road speed”. Most of the comments I’ve seen on the internet seem to suggest it should never be lower than 50 psi at 3000 rpm, however, so I don’t know who to listen to.

I’ve had some people tell me it should be fine for a few thousand more miles and some suggestions that adding an oil cooler would help. I’m planning to make a 600 mile round-trip in July to attend GT-33, my first NAMGAR event, but I may reconsider driving it if there’s an imminent catastrophic failure of some kind. Even though roadside breakdowns make for some great fireside stories, I’d rather avoid them and be a boring conversationalist.
Your bearings are bad. Do not drive your car until they get changed. You need to change the 4 rods, center main, and oil pump. All of which can be done from under the car. There is no substitute to calling the shop for help. John has his technical hour from 1-2 EST Monday - Friday.
EngineT Type Engine BearingI have a YB, with a TF Goldstar replacement engine that need building.
My crank is turned to .10 under, and I need rod and main bearings. What kind do you recommend?
Also, there is a set of Vendervell rod bearings in the size I need with a buy it now of 89.00 dollars. Are these good bearings, fair price?
There is a crummy supply of bearings. Vendervell is the best you can get.
EngineT Type Engine ThreadsAfter many years I'm getting ready to assemble my friend's 1954 TF. I'd like to mount the engine on my engine stand. I tried some new BSF 5/16-22 bolts and they didn't quite seem to fit. The one that I tried, with lubricant, went in with just a little more resistance than expected. I didn't turn it in very far, but as far as it went the threads were slightly distorted. So, my question is: Are the proper bolts BSF 5/16-22 and do I need to buy such a tap and chase the threads or is it something else?
I am not quite sure where you want to mount it, but the engine is all metric. I believes you are looking for a 8 X 1.00 Metric.
EngineMG T Series Spin On Oil Filter A bit of discussion on our forum regarding your MGA - No Oil Pressure
video on youtube...

Are the spin on filter adaptors for the T series (moss/grunau) similar to
the MGA spin on? Its been mentioned that the T series bypass valves are
not part of the adaptor, but in the oil pump? Couple people are wondering
if they should have their adaptors machined or changed or tossed? (I
myself enjoy the taste of 20-50 oil as I unscrew bolts and slip my grip on
the stock cannister).
The MGA/MGB spin on adaptors which take the place of the original,
wonderful felt element filters do NOT have the bypass valve in them.
Therefore, once the filter plugs or slows the movement of oil, the only
indication is a lack of oil pressure on the gauge. In my nearly 40 years of
working with MGs, I cannot remember ever seeing a plugged filter.

The XPAGs with the vertical filter have an oil pressure relief valve
between the block and the pump. The XPAGs and XPEGs with the horizontal
filters have an oil pressure relief valve located in the pump housing. I've
seen very few spin on adaptors for T series, but my feeling is that the OP
relief valve works in either case.

The later TD and TF horizontal filters are not so difficult to
change and get lined up -- but the filter on the MGAs and early MGBs -67
have TWO housings which must be seated. Unseated, it's possible to dump the
full four quarts on the floor within about 30 seconds -- I know!
EngineRemoving a Broken StudI was preparing to adjust my valves by loosening and then retorquing the head nuts to 50lbs as you tought in class. Using my cheapo Harbor Freight torque wrench I snapped the stud almost flush - there is about 1/8 inch of the stud still visible.

I could try to enlist a friend to bring welding gear to my garage and try to weld the nut back onto the stud.

Would another option be to just remove the head assuming the head itself isnt threaded? If I removed the head I should be able to remove the stud just using some pliers. Is removing the head as simple as just removing all the nuts and pulling it off or am I going to be creating other complications? Would I need to replace the head gasket? Any other parts?
If some of the stud is visible, then welding to it is certainly acceptable. Another option is to drill it (start with a 1/8" bit) and then eventually thread it with a tap, then fit a bolt and jam nut and unscrew it. Another option is to drill it with a pilot, then use a reverse drill which will eventually grab it and unscrew it.

If you do remove the head, it's not so bad of a job (and you can clean the combustion chambers). You WILL need a new head gasket at least.

Let me know how you repaired this!

Some of the new studs are not very strong at all -- and some of the inferior wrenches are terribly inaccurate.
EngineEngine Identification TagsA mechanic friend recently inherited a 1967 MGB-GT that he is
rehabilitating. He would appreciate information that would help him locate
all the identification tags in the engine compartment or replace the missing ones.
There is a tag on the engine: 18GB U H ...... between the second
and third spark plugs. There is a tag to the right of the radiator on the
right inner fender, screwed in place with the VIN eg GHD 3L ....... There
is a tag welded to the body on the left side of the rad (opposite of the VIN

tag) with the body number eg MGB......... Once you have the VIN, you can
write to British Motor Heritage at Gaydon in England and purchase a copy of
the production information.
EngineFixing MGB Compression About six months ago I bought a 79 B and drove it back from WI to LA. The engine has about 3k on an rebuild. It has a 45 DCOE and had the small foam air cleaner which I found had totally disintegrated. My first thought was to run a compression check and found pressures in 1 and 4 to be 110 & 100 respectively. Cylinders 3 & 4 are 130. The previous owner threw in a pair of SU with K & N's, needless to they are going on as soon as this is resolved. It looks to me that a set of rings maybe in order. What are you thoughts?
I would start with the head. You need to find where it is leaking, start by torquing the head and adjusting the valves. Please call during my tech hour so I can explain what to do.
EngineMGB Engine RestorationI have a ’71 MGB with 18GK engine that was put away in a shed for about 25 years. The engine was overhauled to some degree sometime before it was parked in the shed. No special preparation for storage, other than draining the cooling system, appears to have been done. The owner had considered restoring it himself and did replace rotors, pads, drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, clutch cylinders, and a few sundry parts before deciding to let the project go to the highest bidder …….. namely me.



The engine had not been run for 25 years, so I did a compression check and found #4 cylinder near 0 psi. I decided that it would be best to pull the engine/transmission and thoroughly examine the internals since it was likely parked for 25 years with old, dirty oil in the crankcase. I found the cam and crank in very good condition, but the bearings show what I believe is deterioration from acids in the old oil (flaky, spotty, blotchy appearance).



My main concern at this time is whether I should rebore the block since the piston skirt to cylinder wall clearance is about .004 inch. I think the spec is more like .001 to .002 inch. Is that correct? Do I need to have the cylinders bored out and install new pistons? I’ll probably never drive the car more than a few thousand miles a year, if that much.



The low compression on #4 cylinder was due to a rusty exhaust valve and seat. The exhaust valves in particular show wear from the valve seats. Is it best to have hardened seats and stellite exhaust valves put in now or would a simple regrind be sufficient for a car that will only be driven a couple thousand miles a year?



In the end, I still want a dependable engine, so I’m not afraid to invest what’s necessary. What’s the best way to go here?

All engine work is expensive, so my approach is to make the engine run first, take it on a long drive and then rate the engine by these four considerations: compression; oil pressure; oil consumption; camshaft condition. Had you started it up, you probably would have found that it ran well. You then could have changed the bearings and redone the cylinder head. But all's not lost!

I'm assuming you have the engine pretty well apart. You will want to cut the ridge and hone the cylinder walls, first with long stones to ensure parallel surfaces, then with a glaze breaker to achieve a 60 degree crosshatch. The clearance you find is just fine. You will want to fit new rings and all new bearings, along with an oil pump rebuild kit.

When you send the head out for a recondition, be sure to have it crack checked, surfaced, hardened seats installed on the exhaust valves, new guides installed, and umbrella seals fitted. Spend the extra $500-$600 and have it ported and polished to achieve a little more power (about $100/horsepower).

My tech book has a step by step instruction for rebuilding the engine -- you might find that helpful.

If you have further questions, please call during tech time. Good luck with your project!
EngineMGB Rear SealGot a quick question. I am now rebuilding a '68 MGB whose engine had been rebuilt several years ago and has good compression. It leaks oil from the rear of the engine - leaves a spot about 5" in diameter each time I park it after driving. Sounds like a rear main seal. But here's what's strange. I put the car up on ramps, had it idling while I lay underneath, and watched for oil dripping and never saw anything! Waited about 10 minutes with engine idling. So, appears not to leak while running but only after shutdown.

Any ideas? Like to avoid removing the engine if not required.
If the engine is leaking from the rear seal, it is doing so for one of two reasons: 1) the engine is pressurizing and oil is blowing out wherever it can (including the rear seal); or 2) the seal and/or crank is faulty. If 1), then the engine won't leak idling because the internal pressure is not great enough. If 2), then while it is leaking, the oil is being flung onto the inside surface of the bell housing and won't drool down for a while (after the car is shut down).

So, I would check the front tappet inspection breather hose. Remove it from the Smith's PCV valve and blow into it to make sure that you can move air through the hose and front cover and then have it escape from the filler cap. Second, I would make sure that the Smith's PCV valve is clean. If all that's OK, then the sad truth is that you'll have to work with the engine. Until then, keep a large pizza pan in the garage filled with oil dry or kitty litter -- and make sure to keep adding oil!
EngineNon-Original ExhaustMy '79 Midget has an old performance header (four welded once stainless pipes) which is still in good condition. A flange was made up to connect the balance of the exhaust system which slipped over the header...very poorly! It leaks badly and needs to be replaced. I find exhaust systems available through Moss or VB but only with a flange for the 1500. Can you suggest anyplace to or anyone to resolve the problem. I was going to try to weld a piece onto the conventional pipe after removing the flange but have been unable to find anything locally which will fit the header and the pipe. I hate to bother you with this but YOU ARE THE GUY WITH THE ANSWERS. We have an exhaust shop right down the street. When we get into a jam -- non original parts -- we take the MGs there. The one fellow on site does a wonderful job. You probably have a shop like that near you.
EngineMGB Screaming NoiseOur MGB motor (USA MGBLE 03-1979) is producing a very high screaming noise.

It seems the crankshaft is causing this noise. If we turn the shaft by hand the noise is also being produced.



We've made a 1 minute video. Is it possible to indicate the cause of this noise by listening to the video noise.

Please be aware that on the background there is an additional noise of a shipping motor to be avoid.

The case is the high screaming noise.

The video is to be seen by clicking on the following link:



http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=--XX4PZgpdQ



Can you give us an idea what causes the screaming sound?

Appreciate your cooperation in this.
Your video was very helpful! It was a wonderful idea to use this medium so I could listen. I will encourage others to use You Tube the same way you have.

If the gearbox was in gear and not turning, then I would suggest that the problem is that the spigot bushing or pilot bushing has a burr, a lip, or is distorted so that the bushing grabs the first motion shaft of the gearbox. This is very common on a rebuild and occurs only when the clutch is depressed (engine turning, gearbox not turning), and when it is cold. Now there are two crankshaft bushings, one very much longer than the other. You have not said that you have rebuilt the engine, but it looks very fresh and the engine ID tag is missing. Did you change the spigot bushing? To repair this problem, you will need to remove the engine and sand the inside diameter of the bushing -- perhaps put just a wipe of grease in it for lubrication.
EngineMG T Type Manifold Hardware and Jet CoatHaving removed the carbs I decided this would be an excellent time to have my
exhaust manifold "Jet-Hot" coated to reduce engine compartment temp.
(Discovered a really nastie looking weld hiding on my exhaust manifold....ground it
down re-welded & bead blasted it...)
I was wondering if you have (or know of a source) were I could obtain new
stainless steel studs and brass nuts for :
Manifolds to engine block / Carbs to Intake manifold / Exhaust manifold to exhaust.
I am a little Leary about obtaining the proper threads from the boyz @ my local NAPA
store for these!
Remember that those threads are 8x1.00metric in the cylinder head; and 10x1.50metric on the bottom of the manifold. I have not used stainless in these applications. Have you tried McMaster's in Chicago? We have changed from using brass nuts to using "prevailing torque" nuts -- especially on the bottom of the manifold. These are easily available.

Be sure you have the manifold "Jet Hot Coated" and not simply "Jet Coated" -- we've just ground off the "jet coating" to smooth the manifold for the "jet hot coating." I expect you're using the firm in Pennsylvania -- if you're dealing with someone else, call me for the 800 number for the firm I'm using.
EngineMGTF Cylinder BoreI am restoring a MGTF1500 with I bought here in Holland with a 1250 engine in it. You gave me the name of Gregg Purvis on the beginning of this year. Gregg did find one engine in parts and that looks good, but it was expensive with the transportcosts to Holland.
I was lucky to find a 1500 motor here in the neighbourhood.
This motor has the following pistons L57 AEF119 TO SUIT +0,030 BORE , the diameter I meassured on one piston was 72.75 mm. This should be 72.763 mm.
Can you tell me which max. cylinderdiameter belongs to this pistendiam.
About the XPEG: You know, all the basic measurements are metric. Hence the bore of 72mm and the stroke of 90mm yielding 1466 cc. However, since the engines were supplied in countries which used inches as the basic measurements, nearly all overbore and undersizes are in inch increments.

A 0.030" overbore is 0.762mm. That means that the piston should measure 72.762mm less the bore clearance of some 0.005" or 0.127mm or about 72.635mm. The difference between your measurement of your piston 72.75mm and my calculation of 72.635 (the calculated piston size for a 0.030" overbore) is 0.115mm or about 0.005 -- which could be errors in measurement or errors in piston to bore clearances.

The book gives a clearance at the thrust face of 0.0021-0.0024" (or 0.053-0.061mm). So, I would bore the block at 72.75mm + 0,057mm or 73.32 72,807 mm. (I think this was a little fault the red will be the bore.)

But, in the end, go with the suggestion of your machine shop.

Do not miss the most important part of the machining -- and that is align boring or align honing of the block and sizing the rear slinger to run 0.007" or 0.178 larger than the scroll thread on the crankshaft. The main cap diameter should be 56.54mm.
EngineBroken Head Stud I screwed up!

I was preparing to adjust my valves by loosening and then
retorquing the head nuts to 50lbs as you tought in class. Using my
cheapo Harbor Freight torque wrench I snapped the stud almost flush -
there is about 1/8 inch of the stud still visible.

I could try to enlist a friend to bring welding gear to my
garage and try to weld the nut back onto the stud.

Would another option be to just remove the head assuming the
head itself isnt threaded? If I removed the head I should be able to
remove the stud just using some pliers. Is removing the head as simple
as just removing all the nuts and pulling it off or am I going to be
creating other complications? Would I need to replace the head gasket?
Any other parts?
If some of the stud is visible, then welding to it is certainly acceptable. Another option is to drill it (start with a 1/8" bit) and then eventually thread it with a tap, then fit a bolt and jam nut and unscrew it. Another option is to drill it with a pilot, then use a reverse drill which will eventually grab it and unscrew it.

If you do remove the head, it's not so bad of a job (and you can clean the combustion chambers). You WILL need a new head gasket at least.

Let me know how you repaired this!

Some of the new studs are not very strong at all -- and some of the inferior wrenches are terribly inaccurate.
EngineValve LiftHi, your YouTube videos are fantastic! You've answered every question I have about diagnosing problems in my MGB's engine, save one. As I understand it, one of the things I need to check out is the valve lift. I'm not sure how to go about this. Can you clarify this? The cam lift, on a normal MGB camshaft, is about 1/4". This is amplified through the rocker arm ratio (about 1 1/2 to 1) for a total valve lift of about 3/8". The cam guys will tell you that 0.010" wear on a lobe is too great. That works out to 0.014" at the valve. You cannot even begin to see such a slight difference. BUT, if you can see that one valve is opening less than the others, then the lobe is terribly worn. If the valve is an inlet, you will be underpowered at speed; if the valve is an exhaust, you'll burn the valve (and head) soon. It is VERY uncommon to see any difference in the lift simply by watching them bob up and down, with the valve cover off, at a very low idle -- but IF you can see a difference, it's cam time.
EngineLower Manifold NutsMy current issue is this... I am in the process of removing the intake manifold on my 1979 Midget. I can't seem to get at those lower manifold nuts. Precisely what wrench can I use to get them loose? Do I need a specialized tool? All I can suggest is blood, toil, sweat, and, perhaps, some tears! Use an open end 9/16" wrench and move those nuts 1/16 of a turn at a time -- whatever -- until they come loose. Be sure to chase the threads of the stud and nut, and use plenty of grease when you reassemble so that the job goes quickly in the other direction. I assume you've removed the carburetter and the heat shield, as those will certainly slow you down.
EnginePinion Oil Seal I need to replace my pinion oil seal on my tube axle. I am concerned
about having to use special tools as per workshop manual.
I do have standard torque wrenches. Do you recommend this operation?
If not, I am not sure who could do this here in the Milwaukee area.
This is a difficult task to do at home as you need a "special tool"
and the drive flange can be very difficult to remove.
Basically, you're going to remove the front flange of the differential, pry
out the seal, fit a new seal, and refit the flange. The flange is
sometimes stuck, stuck fast -- so you need to tap it forward with your
hammer, turning it slightly between each tap so nothing is bent or stressed.
When the flange comes off, you will want to polish the contact surface with
some fine grit paper (600 or so).

The old seal comes out with a pry bar or with a long, heavy
screwdriver. The new one is inserted and tapped into place with a hammer --
carefully!

Now comes the part that needs finesse. Reinstall the flange, fit
the nut, then begin to tighten the nut, constantly feeling the restriction
to movement of the front flange. You are searching for a pre-load, or
resistance to turn, of about one foot pound. The "feel" is a very slight
tightening. The problem here is that the flange rotates independently of
the crown wheel by as little as 1/8" on its circumference -- and you must
gauge the preload in that distance! Further, you should not use an air
impact to turn the nut as there is little control. You should use a long
1/2" breaker bar. But, you have to keep the flange from turning, so you'll
have to make up a tool that you can bolt to the front flange. I've used a
3/4" piece of rod, about two feet long, with two 5/16" holes on one end.
Run two 5/16" bolts through those holes, fix them tightly with nuts, and use
that, passed through the 5/16" holes in the diff flange to keep the flange
from turning. You could bolt this tool to the front flange, but then you
wouldn't be able to feel the preload. Tighten, feel; tighten, feel;
tighten,feel. Eventually you'll begin to draw the two taper bearings close
together and achieve this very slight resistance to turn.

I'd be pleased to review this with you on the phone. Of course, it
would make a good addition to our YouTube videos.

BTW, don't forget to refill the diff with oil!
EngineMGB 3 Main EngineI decided to put a 3 main MGB engine into my 1960 MGA. The MGA's 1600 engine is bored 0.40 over and has liners, and I was scared to eyebrow the block to enable use of a modern flowed cylinder head on the engine to get more power.

I've never worked on a 3 main MGB engine before. I bought a used shortblock for $100. When I got home with it and cleaned up the tops of the pistons, they look eerily like factory pistons! They are stamped MOWOG in the middle, with "Front" on the front side. They have a "3" stamped on the far side. Does this mean that these are 0.30 oversize? Does this mean that they are the original pistons and the block hasn't been bored out yet (which I find hard to believe)?
The pistons were originally sized at 3.160 inches. That number, stamped on the top (and stamped on the top of the block sometimes -- if you look carefully) is the number of ten thousandths oversize. The number is sometimes inside a rhombus. The blocks were bored and hone then measured. The pistons were spun and measured. The bores were not all the same size -- nor were the pistons. This marking allowed the factory to get the best fit. It is meaningless today.

The MGB block will work just fine for you. Consider using Pete Alberta's rear main seal -- it's very expensive, to be sure, but it is a positive seal. Otherwise, ensure that your machine shop align bores the main caps.
EngineMGB Exhaust I am looking for advice on which exhaust system to
replace the Moss SS system I have on my 67BGT. I am
experiencing gobs of back pressure from my present
system(it can knock down walls at three feet from
the exhaust tip).
It has been suggested that replacing with a bigger
bore I will enjoy better acceleration and power.
Which of the systems do you think best and where do
you recommend I shop?
Ansa, Monza, Peco??
You won't easily believe what I have to say
here, but Carl
Heideman's numerous dynamometer pulls bear this
out: "Big Bore"
exhausts make nary a difference in power.

But, for looks, for sound, and for
durability, the ANSA!

For power: a good tune-up; electronic
ignition (2 hp); MSD
ignition (as much as 2hp); port and polish on the
head (as much as
10 hp); the Moss blower (30 hp). These all are
about $100/hp.
EngineJudson Supercharger I am looking for a Judson supercharger for my 1961 MGA 1600 coupe. Can you help? Or point me in the right direction? Thanks. The only reason you would choose the Judson over the new Moss one is because you want to add only period devices and accessories. The Moss blower is SO VERY MUCH better than the Judson -- hands down!

If you haven't already, contact Carl Heideman at Eclectic Motorworks in Holland, Michigan. He knows the name of the US expert on Judson units.
EngineAdding ZDDP to OilYou won't know me, but I've seen you at various MG gatherings over the years! One day I'd love to get out to Michigan!

No doubt you are aware of the problem being talked about, that the formula for modern oil is lacking various ingredients considered essential for our older cars? I am the original owner 1974.5 MGB GT (my only car/regular driver), and I have just had a new engine installed in her; I'm particularly anxious not to ruin it! I have heard various suggestions - add STP; add something called "Compcam"; use "Red Line" synthetic oil.......what are your thoughts?

Whenever you have time, I'd be very interested to know your opinion, please? Many thanks.
You SURE want to have enough ZDDP in your oil at startup! Where to find it? Red Line has enough; Castrol makes a racing oil with enough; or you can call David Anton at APT (or contact them through APT-FAST.com) as he sells excellent cams and must have this stuff on the shelf.

I am still uncertain as to the veracity of the original complaints and if they are as dire as some state, what the proper plan of attack is. My Castrol rep tells me that their racing oil is good.
EngineValve Stem Seals Hi. I hope you had great holidays. I haven't sent you a question in a few
years, but I sure would like to know what valve stem seals your shop uses
when rebuilding
MGB cylinder heads. I've heard the little o-rings that came w/ my rebuild
kit aren't the way to go. Any recommendations with manufacturer and part
number would
be very helpful at this point in my project.
We use Felpro SS 70373 which fit some sort of Chevy truck. They are
the perfect replacement for those little O rings, which, while better than
nothing, just don't do a very good job.

Be sure to have your machine shop open the bronze-silicone valve
guides (if you're using those) to 0.002 instead of 0.0005 or the valve stems
will gall.
FuelFuelThe springs for the throttle stop screw on the SU carbs on the 74 where can i get them? On the MGB the car has sat for ten years it now has a new fuel pump the car will run but looks like it's burning coa,much of the emissions styff if gone along with air filter,which would be the best anb cheepest way to go? ps the engine doesn"t sound bad no oil smoke and no rattles also no cat on this car. Thank you for your help. Woody Woody, You can purchase the carburetter adjuster screw springs (AUC 2451) from MossMotors.com or from JoeCurto.com. If I were you, I'd find a set of original air filters as those have the greatest cross section of filtering surface and use inexpensive paper filter elements. If you want to send me a digital picture of the engine bay -- several shots from several angles, I can tell you if the emission control system has been disconnected properly -- for if it has been improperly removed or plugged it may make the engine smoke. Catalytic converters were not fitted until after 1975. Hope this helps a bit. John
FuelFuelMr. Twist, I have a 1980 MGB and that has had HS-4's installed for many years. I recently purchased a Zenith Stromberg 175 CD-2 with the long-term thought of returning the car to it's original configuration somewhere down the road. This particular carb was removed from a 1977 MGB. I noticed that the idle air regulator is not installed on the carb and that the port has been sealed with some sort of epoxy-like material. My first thought was to simply clean out the port and install a new regulator, but then I got to wondering why it was removed in the first place. I also noticed that the Haynes repair manual says "if installed" when it refers to that piece. Question - should I clean out the port and install a new regulator or is it better to leave it removed and the carb sealed? Thank you, Bob Finley Bob, First of all, I'd leave the HS-4s on the MGB. If you do the math, the twin 1 1/2" throats offer half again the cross sectional area of the single 175 Stromberg (the 175 stands for 1.75 inches). Further, the air flow is much more direct into the cylinders and doesn't have to turn those dramatic 90 degree corners as it does in the Stromberg manifold. Then, too, the exhaust is plumbed out of the engine in a double Y manifold (if you're using the factory exhaust manifold) instead of doing about a 180 degree turn as it does on the Stromberg manifold. I LOVE the twin SU carbs! The idle air regulator is for mixing a little more air to the mixture -- added beyond the gasoline metering needle. This is necessary to meet idle air emissions. In practice, I usually shut that valve all the way down when I'm tuning a Stromberg for performance (We have no emission regulations in Michigan for our MGs). If your goal is to return the car to factory specification, then you WILL want the idle air control as it was fitted to all Federal, California, and Canadian spec MGBs. There are plenty of Strombergs available at swap meets and on eBay, so your time is probably better spent doing something other than clearing the JB weld out of the air holes in that existing carb. Hope this helps. John
FuelFuelHello John, Thank you sir for your online support. I've watched your YouTube videos & more other info but my question remains. My 1966 Volvo 122s has twin su carbs but came w. different needles HZ rear & KD front. Carbs are marked different & slightly different in appearance also. Rear marked AUD 8108 on oil damper cap & AUD 8103 on front one. Float bowl lid marked AUC 94F (rear)& 33F (front). Seems to run best w. rear totally lean on bottom mix nut up, & 1 1/2 turn down on front mix nut. Is this ok? waiting on unisyn & new fuel pump (moved uphill) to recalibrate them. Thank you in advance for your advice. Sincerely, Andrew Lee San Clemente California Andrew, I do not know the specifics for your Volvo but I can tell you this -- it is ESSENTIAL that the carbs are matched and that they do the same thing as the other, at the same time. I would suggest that you contact JoeCurto.com as he has the most extensive SU inventory in the USA, plus he knows your carburetters intimately. He can offer you the parts you need (needles, dampers,....) to make the carbs match. Remember that a good tune up requires that all four systems are in top notch condition -- emissions, engine, ignition, and finally fuel. Hope this helps a bit. John
FuelFuel PumpHi John! I'm experiencing a problem with my Sprite. It will occasionally act like it's run out of fuel, stall out and not restart. The Fuel filter is dry and when I disconnect the fuel line from the carb and turn over the engine I get nothing. I've eventually been able to get it restarted after waiting a while and using starting fluid! But this has happened multiple times. I've never heard of a mechanical fuel pump acting in this manor. Your thoughts?'d forgotten that there is a mechanical pump on your engine. Most of the cars we see have an electric pump at the back. It appears that the mechanical pump is losing its prime -- that's from air entering the system between the tank and the pump. Loosen and retighten all the fittings. My experience with mechanical pumps is that they work -- or not.
FuelCaruburetor Linkage Hi John, I just wanted to say thank you for your great videos. I'm the proud owner of a 58 MGA project, which I've had for the last 10 years or so. My car had been in storage for a while, so I'm nursing her back to health. Anyway, I noticed that fuel was pouring out the back of the rear carb, so I decided to rebuild the carbs and in doing some research found your videos. After watching your video I realized that my car's throttle arm has been in the wrong position since I've owned the vehicle and as a result I've likely never been able to open the throttle fully. I really really want to thank you for that video and I'm really excited to get the carbs back on the car so I can take her for a spin with the throttle arm in the correct position! I have one small question, my choke linkage did appear to be connected correctly, however there is a considerable amount of slop in the arms which connect to the jets. Is this normal or should I replace the levers? Thanks again and keep the videos coming!!Several notes about the choke assembly... The choke cable should be held to the inside rear bolt of the pedal assembly (the ring that fits around the pedal draught excluder) by a small clip. The choke levers have 5/16” holes but a 3/16” clevis pin. This allows the levers to be moved up some distance without dropping the jet. This is designed so that the fast idle cam can begin to work before the mixture is enriched. With the 90 degree connector pin disconnected (or at least the clamping nuts run to their extremes) pull up both arms until they lever against the jets. Don’t let the jets begin to move. Then, position the clamping nuts so that both arms begin to drop the jets simultaneously. Now, pull the levers about half that distance and tighten the cable stop holding the inner choke cable. Remember to twirl the inner cable several turns so that the choke knob on the dash is loaded anti clockwise – so it more easily locks into position when the choke cable is withdrawn from the dash. Ensure that the jets have dropped as far as they can when the cable is at its full extension. When the engine is idling, pull the choke cable out until the engine is running at it’s fastest. You’ll find that the idle will increase, and then once the jets begin to drop that the idle will fall back down. Select the position where it’s running the fastest and then set the fast idle screw so that the engine rpm is 1600-1800. It’s not uncommon for the bracket that holds the choke cable sheath to be mispositioned. Use a pair of pliers to angle this bracket and position it so that the inner cable is able to draw the arms up with as little bias on the cable as possible. Obviously this must be done before locking the inner cable with the cable stop. It is possible to solder in a new inner cable to the original choke cable. This is (in my humble opinion) far superior to the new cables which rarely lock well. Hope this helps!
FuelAutochokeNo, I have not found a video on rebuilding the Zenith-Stomberg 175 carburetor. I also rebuilt the choke like the video suggested but with the car at normal operating temperature the coolant hardly moves the spring compared to when I boil it in water. What is going on?Ensure that you are running a 195F thermostat. Ensure that the water flow from the head is not restricted -- and that the return line is open as well. I have found restricted lines in the past. Remember, too, that when you open the bi-metal spring to the atmosphere, the temp falls considerably, hence the rotation will seem a lot less than it does when boiling.
FuelRough EngineDear University Motors,

I have a 1978 MGB roadster with a believed-accurate 84,000 miles on it, and have just returned from an uneventful 500 mile round trip to a British car show in the Smokies. Day before yesterday I had it out, and it started to smoke heavily from the tailpipe (and I mean a lot of smoke), going about 55 mph in 4th. It soon started missing, and wouldn't idle at all. Coming home, it was running so roughly up a hill that I didn't think I would make it home, smoking all the way. The car had the cylinder head off a couple of years ago, new valve guides, seats, and machine work, and has been modified with a '71 twin SU/exhaust-intake set up, and no smog gear. I also had the points replaced with an Ignitor electronic system last month. Any suggestions when I attempt to drive it to Greg, my mechanic, later this week?

RANDALL!

I'll put my money on a hole in one of the pistons! I'm certain that Greg will do a compression test first off -- and then let you know. He'll probably find that three cylinders have excellent compression, but one of them has none. With luck, you won't need any more work on the cylinder head (lapping the valves is ALWAYS a good idea, any time the head is removed). And with luck, the cylinder bores won't be scratched or grooved, and you can simply fit a new set of STD low compression pistons.

Let me know what Greg finds!
Fuel45 DCOE CarbCould set me on the correct path, for modifying the 71MGB Engine.
So that it could handle the 45 DCOE Carb...

Steven P. Keese

STEVEN!

For the sidedraught 45 DCOE to work well it is imperative that the compression is nearly equal in all cylinders -- closer than the 10% variation often given for ensuring proper operation.

The distributor must be purely mechanical -- giving you a maximum advance of 35 degrees, yet idling at about 20 BTDC.

The engine must run HOT -- use a 195 degree thermostat.

Still, expect a momentary stall when you make a full throttle acceleration from stop -- this is the nature of the beast.

These sidedraughts are for racing -- they are not for tooling around town. I believe you'll find the SU carburettor a much better carb for all round use!
fuelFuel Enricher Choke, Changing Carb I am the fellow who called you yesterday at around noon from North Carolina... kindly gave me your home number and I wasn't able to get to the MG to take the fuel enricher "choke" off last night. I'm going to try it this weekend and will call you back next week if I can't find the problem. I was a litttle embarrassed yesterday, I didn't feel like I had all the facts in order when we talked and I want to jot down a few notes that will be benenficial and get the most out of your few minutes on the phone. I have the MG restoration book that guides you through "detoxing" the emission control system. I believe you are referenced in that book. I will go throught that step-by-step, then re-evaluate and if I can't figure this problem out I will recontact you.

If you answer this E-mail, I would like to ask if you have heard anything about putting on the MGB carbs on these Midgets? Where might I find info on that?

Thanks

Bob Hollingsworth

BOB!

As I remember, you have a 1977-1979 Midget with an automatic choke on the Zenith Stromberg. Remove that choke assy (three copper colored, slotted screws) and check the mixture. If you cannot lean the carburettor with the choke removed, then the needle and/or jet may be the problem (or the float height). If the carburettor does run well, then the problem must be the automatic choke.

The Home delivery Midget 1500s used twin HS4 carbs. You'll need the factory manifold which you can purchase most easily from British sources.

Good luck! Call back!
FuelElectronic Fuel PumpWho makes this Electric Fuel-Pump??

the only Labels are:

* Made in Canada
* Warning, must use a filter, or will null the warranty
* (+) (-)

I took it off a 71MGB(That reside, in my Backyard), the Carb on the 71 was a 45 DCOE.. I installed just the Electric Fuel-Pump, on my Daughters 77MGB, with out the carb(45DCOE).

Now Fuel is dumping out of the bottom of the carb(StromZ)..

Does it need a Regulator / is the needle valve stuck???

Steven P. Keese

STEVE!

I do not know the manufacturer -- perhaps for Tire Canada? In any event, it should work just fine UNLESS it develops more than THREE PSI. You can rap the Stromberg with the wooden handle of your hammer to try to get the shutoff valve to close (needle and seat); you can measure the psi of the pump; you can purchase a factory, SU fuel pump (but that wouldn't take care of the sticky needle and seat, if that IS the problem). A regulator can reduce the line pressure to two psi.
FuelGas TankJohn,

Am interested in new or rebuilt 1971 gas tank. Mine has some leaks. What is cost to repair?

Carter Brown

Carter!

Almost any attempt to repair the MGB gasoline tank is futile. There is a design flaw which allows dirt to sit on the very front edge of the tank -- which, in turn, holds moisture, and that rusts through. The best solution is to purchase a new tank and coat the top of the new tank with tar before fitting it. The tank is about $200; the installation time is 2-3 hours, depending on the difficulty in removing the old one. So, at my shop, the price to install a new tank would be about $340 to $400. If you attempt this job yourself, be EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS as the tank is a terrible bomb, just waiting for ignition!!
FuelCarburettor LeakHello there,

I recently purchased a 1978 MGB that has a minor problem, the carburetter (a Zenith 175 CD) has a leak on the side (the leak is not huge, but there's oil and fuel around the area), the ex-owner of the car pointed this out to me and told me that the broken piece is no longer sold. I received a catalog from Victoria British and they sell every piece of the carburetter except that one 🙁 problem is that the engine shakes a lot, the smell of fuel not being burnt properly is really bad and the car of course hesitates when accelerated. I suppose that air is getting inside of the carburator through here. Can you guys help? Please let me know if this is something that can be repaired.

Thanks in advance,

Alexis

ALEXIS!

If you want us to rebuild the carburettor, we can do that. If you want to order the piece you need, you must describe it better, or simply give me a call between 1-2pm EST Mon - Fri, and I can see if we can find a rebuilt piece to send.

The shaking is caused my misfiring -- probably a difference in the mixture between 1/2 and 3/4 -- probably a vacuum leak along the manifold to head gasket, but perhaps somewhere else.

Tell me where you're writing from, perhaps there's a shop I know that I could refer. OR, come here yourself with the carb, and I'll rebuild it as you watch!
FuelAdjusting CarbsJohn,

I just wanted to tell you how valuable the 'adjusting your carbs' part of your seminar was this past Feb. You may not remember, but you demonstrated adjusting the carbs on a GT. The car was running very rough with the #1 and 2 cylinders not firing. The problem was no fuel from the front carb.

This past weekend, I took my TC on an extended drive with the rebuilt carbs. The car ran fine for an hour or so, then began missing out. After a couple of stabs at points, etc., I discovered that the #3 and 4 cylinders were not firing. I took the air chamber off of the rear carb suspecting that the piston was sticking. When I did, the jet needle fell out!

I repositioned it, tightened the set screw, and reassembled. The car runs like a champ!

Thanks for an excellent confidence building experience.

Mike

Mike!

Thanks for the kind note. Hope those carbs continue to operate correctly!
FuelClicking I have a 1974 MGB which has a constant clicking when I turn on the ignition, and all during driving. I was told that this could be a faulty fuel pump. Could you please advise if this is a possibility. And if so, what is the estimated cost to bring my car to your shop.

My wife and I visited your shop last year and found your staff to be very helpful.

Thank you.

Russ Hess

RUSS!

The factory SU fuel pump clicks only when it moves the fuel required by the carbs -- perhaps once every ten or twenty seconds. If your MGB has a factory fuel pump, then the problem is that the pump is faulty, or there is a leak on the inlet side of the pump. If your MGB has an aftermarket pump, then you may have to suffer the rattling until you get another pump. Sometimes the noise can be greatly reduced by mounting the offensive pump on rubber insulation. If you do have an aftermarket pump and you brought the car to my shop and wanted a factory pump installed, the cost could be about $150.

Hope this helps!
FuelSmog Pumps, BackfiringJohn,

I have a '79 MGB that has an affinity for destroying smog pumps. The previous owners went through 2 or 3 before I got it. For me it has destroyed two of the Moss Motors replacement pumps (modified Nissan devices) over the course of about 2000 miles. The gulp valves and check valves fail as well. Have you any advice in this area?

I have one idea, but I don't know if it makes sense. When I accelerate from a stop and the engine's cold it backfires(?) in the engine compartment. It's not a like a gunshot out the tailpipe, more like a loud poof, I think through the carb. The thing is, if it's in the intake system, why would it affect the smog pump in the exhaust side?

I don't notice this explosive poofing so much when it's warmed up. Only when it's first catching at startup and, as I said, when I'm accelerating from a stop, cold.

I suspect that my automatic choke needs some tweaking. I've read your procedure and will perform it when I get a chance. After boiling my thermal mass do I need to put something on the spring to stave off rust?

Thanks for any advice you can give,

Tony Campbell
San Diego, CA

Tony!

The spitting, coughing, hiccuping, you experience when the engine is cold is a result of a lean mixture or retarded timing. Check the timing first! Set the timing at 15 degrees before top dead center at 1500 rpm, vacuum disconnected. Then, make certain that you connect the vacuum advance line directly to the intake manifold (NOT through the TCSA switch on the master cylinder box). This will ensure proper timing for good running. Then adjust the mixture. Use your Stromberg adjusting tool. Lift the air piston with the tool (angle it dramatically and lift). The engine rpm should INCREASE about 50 rpm and then fall off. If the rpm falls immediately, the mixture is too lean; if the rpm rises and rises, well over 50 rpm as the air piston is lifted, the mixture is too rich. Turn the tool clockwise to pull the needle up into the air piston; hence out of the jet, making the mixture richer.

I am unable to tell you that this coughing/spitting is causing a problem with the air pump -- but, eliminating it cannot do anything but help!
FuelHD-8 CarbsMr. Twist,

I am one of the technical advisers for the Philadelphia MG Club and currently have a problem that I suspect not too many, if anyone, has ever run into. I spoke to Mr. Joe Curto last week about the situation and he could not help me by thought that possibly you could. If you cannot help me directly, maybe you could suggest a direction for me to go. The problem is as follows.

I have a couple of HD-8's from a Mk10 Jaguar that I am planning on using on my MGC and E-Type Jaguar. Due to possible concerns with bonnett clearance, I had the Mk-10 carb dash pots cut to the same heigth as the E-Type dash pots. About 0.250". All of the remaining critcal issues regarding these carbs seems to be identical as the E-Type carbs after having comparing them with a friends carbs. I thought(?) that I had inspected all three carbs sufficiently before having them cut to screw in the cap and damper only to find that one dashpot only has one thread left in it. I suspect that this is a Whitworth thread but am not sure. The cap and damper measure about 0.687" in diameter and have around 26TPI. I believe that the dashpots on all SU's, and maybe Zeinths, use the same thread and cannot believe that I am the first to have this problem. Someone has to know, and have, the proper tap for these dash pots to cut another one or two treads for me. I was going to send Burlen Fuel Systems an E-Mail about this but cannot find a web page or E-Mail address for them. I know that they are havingnew carbs manufacutered as some other may and therefore the tap has to be avaible. I am willing to pay someone to do this but need to know who and were. I do not really want to buy a tap for three - five carbs.

I would appreciate any advise or suggestions that you may have

Thank You

Fred Wright

FRED!

I've got a catalogue from SU at the shop -- they're owned by DANA, the US automotive corporation! Try them as SU, as SU/BUTEC. Call me tomorrow, 1-2pm EST and I'll give you their website as it's printed on the back of the catalogue!

Also, try Robert Clark, of Clark and Clark Specialities. Robert had some octagonal dampers made up with an MG logo -- and HE found out what the threads were (from SU, I believe). He sent me a note some time ago with the thread form -- but you're right -- it's a Whitworth form. I've included him in the cc line. Perhaps he can help!
FuelRich Needles John, I am looking for a set of rich needles for my 1.5" SU's. I ported and polished the head on my xpeg engine, and now seem to be running a bit lean above about 2000rpm. Haven't had any luck with MOSS or Abingdon Spares. Do you have any leads I might follow to find these needles?

Scott McAllister
Cleveland, Tn.

SCOTT!

Joe Curto has nearly ALL the SU parts. Try him! His e-mail address is joecurto@aol.com.
FuelZenith Stromberg Carb Air Cleaner I recently attempted to put a k&n filter on my zenith CD carb. The car was running fine before I put this filter on. It works fine when I replace the old filter apparatus back on the car. The car has just been completely restored ( including engine rebuild). When the k&n filter is in place the idle is rough and there are lots of flat spots on acceleration. I advanced the timing (that helped a bit) but there is still hesitation on acceleration. I also adjusted the mixture up and down and nothing seems to help. I cant figure if the car is getting too much air or too little or what. Have you ever had someone successfully install a k&n on a zenith. Can it be done.

Thanks
Mick

MICK!

The simple truth is that the Zenith Stromberg carb works ONLY with the factory air cleaner. I had to have a guy sleep overnight at my house once while I was discovering this truth!! Another time, a fellow from Texas sent me a case of Lone Star beer in an old suitcase for the simple suggestion to refit the factory air cleaner.

When the engine is run without the air cleaner, too much air gets under the piston and pushes it up too high -- thus leaning out the mixture. I know a different needle would do the trick, but WHAT needle I have no idea. So, I always fit the factory air cleaner.

Why not call the place you ordered the air cleaner from and ask THEM??
FuelWeber Carb I have a 1977 MGB with a Weber carb. The car runs, very rough, very rich, and backfires on occasion. The timing is correct accoring to the timing light and staic timing. Th choke is manual and operational.

I can not "lean" the carb out (maybe I don't know how). Could you help me? I have attended your technical seminars and have used the experience to do a full restoration on my 61 MGA.

Thanks,

Ed. Sherman

ED!

I should have you speak with the guy whose letter I just answered -- he figured the answer to his running problems was a WEBER!! Your Weber has a screw, just like your lawn mower carb, for adjusting the mixture at idle. It's often on an angle pointing towards the passenger. Screwing it in and out changes the idle smoothness dramatically -- I just did one this morning!

Is the air cleaner free from grit?
FuelStarving for FuelDear Mr. TWIST,

I have "recently" acquired a 79 MG MIDGET , about two years ago . Since my ownership of the car unfortunately , I have only put about 100 miles on it. When I purchased the MG, it had just finished a complete engine and transmission rebuild, with paper work and receipts to prove. On my way home after just purchasing the car I ran into a little difficulty keeping the engine running on the open road "highway". The MG runs fine around town as long as I don't get my "foot" into it. If I try to accelerate to rapidly than the MG starves for gas. The electric fuel pump does run extensively to try to keep up with the demand for gas.... I'm sure this won't help the longevity "life" of the pump . After pushing in the clutch and taking it out of gear and coasting for a few seconds it recovers and I can continue on my way.

Since this glorious drive home I have taken it to a mech. that works primarily on European cars. I have had It in and out of the mech's shop since that first day . The mech has rebuilt the carburetor with a kit from Victoria British , adding new dampening oil , new rings , gaskets , ect. what ever comes in the kit I have no idea . I took the vehicle home , assuming that the problem was fixed , well to my surprise It ran a little better but still had a problem accelerating fast and getting over 50 - 55 miles an hour. I took it back to the mech. , for further diagnosis .

Well more parts and labor involved , the mech. installed all new fuel lines , a fuel filter and a new fuel pump, 3.5 to 9 lbs of pressure on the pump. Once again I took the car home and encountered the same problem . I of course took the car back to the mech. .... and after further test he assured me that the carburetor was built properly and the lines were all correct , as well as the fuel pressure was proper. We even took a drive In the car together with a fuel pressure gage hooked-up to make sure that the carburetor was getting all the gas that it should. Well extremely discouraged I took the car home and parked it for quite some time now. Still starting it occasionally to let the engine idle and run for a while to ensure that it stays clean and free of "inner garbage".

I have recently spoken to another individual that insist that the car must have a venting problem... and that the carburetor isn't "drawing" the gas like it should . As well this individual has suggested to ditch the carburetor and get a Weber. I would rather try and find out what exactly is wrong, before dropping around $650.00 into a new Weber , and intake to find that this doesn't fix the problem either .

Well that's about it , if you have any ideas or suggestions what so ever " please , please ", email me back, or drop a letter on your site how ever you might contact me . Any help is greatly appreciated. By the way great web site , I have just found it and it has lots of information , and possibly if the "problem can't be solved ..... I might think about making a long road trip from TEXAS with the car on a trailer just to get it to your shop.

Thanks
Thomas "no-gas" Dimase
79' MG MIDGET

THOMAS!

There are two easy answers -- try these and then get back in touch.

#1 -- make certain that the original air cleaner is on the car. It simply will not run well with some chromed up, aftermarket thing.

#2 -- and this is probably the problem -- DISCONNECT the charcoal canister from the carburetter -- the line exists either ABOVE the fuel entry -- or on the front side of the carb. These canisters get plugged up and place a vacuum above the gasoline in the float bowl -- which leans out the mixture at higher speeds.
FuelFuel Problem John, let me describe a strange occurrence that is happening with the above car. I am in the process of restoring this car and I am having a fuel problem which started a few months ago while I had the engine out and it was a warm day the fuel would push out through the open fuel line in the engine compartment, On removal of the gas cap which resulted in a strong sucking sound out of the fill pipe but by leaving the cap off this process stops. Now I have everything back in place last weekend I tried to turn the engine over what happened was that the fuel pump ticked over as normal then slowed down but kept running resulting in the fuel running through the carburetor and then into the first emissions canister and spilling out into the engine compartment. I have now purchased a new canister but not fitted it yet as I believe that they must be something wrong with the fuel breather system.

Could you please advise as soon as possible or give me a quick note and I could call you during your lunchtime tech advise sessions, I am hoping you will be able to get back to me as soon as possible as I am getting itchy to get this out on the road.

Talk to you soon thanks again

Steve Plimmer

STEVE!

I believe you have two problems. The first one is a plugged ELC system; the second is a problem with the needle and seat in the carb (or reversed fuel and ELC lines).

There is a charcoal canister fitted to the MGB from 1970 through 1980. All the air entering the tank (to replace gasoline drawn out by the pump) and all air/fuel leaving the tank (expansion from heat) must pass through the canister. The charcoal adsorbs the fuel vapor, which is, in turn, drawn through the engine and into the carb when the engine is running. The problem you describe is a classic case of a plugged line from the tank to the canister, or most unusually, a plugged canister.

The second problem is either (simply) reversed fuel and ELC (evaporative loss control) lines. The ELC line enters the carb at the topmost, the fuel enters at the bottommost (I only assume you have a late model, Stromberged MGB). Otherwise, you have leaky or sticky floats or needles/seats in the carb (if you had HIF carbs, this wouldn't surprise me).

There is never a need to buy a new canister, as the old one is easily dis-assembled, and the charcoal can be placed on a sheet of metal (a cookie sheet when the wife isn't home) and "activated" by exposure to the sun all day.

Hope this helps
FuelVokes Air CleanerI am looking for a Vokes air cleaner assembly for a 55 TF 1500. Do you have one or know where I might find one? Thanks

HOWARD! I would suggest that you try the "shotgun" approach and write EVERYONE whose name you can find who deal in MG parts -- private and businesses. I have been successful in finding parts in this way. Additionally, try the website www.mgcars.org.uk to place your wanted advert.

You can try Abingdon Spares in Walpole NH; Mick Conde who trades as Keystone Classic Cars in Jeannette, PA.

Good luck!
FuelFuel Hose Boots Is there a supplier for the rubber boots that fit over the end of the fuel system hoses? moss and victoria british only sell them with the hoses
thanks

DAN! Contact Joe Curto in New York. Joe sells all things SU. Hope this
helps!
FuelHigh IdleJohn,
This letter hails from Chesnee, S.C. The garden spot of South Carolina of which Gramling S.C. is one of our run down suburbs. Bill Sapp argues otherwise but his attitude is typical of people who live in such areas. I have a '79 B (its from Gramling) in my garage that does not want to idle
down once the engine gets up to operating temperature. It has a single Stromberg. The air pump is missing and the vacuum advance has been disabled. The throttle has been backed off all the way and the kick down device for the cold idle is disengaging once the engine warms up. The
timing is set at 15 degrees and holds steady with a timing light. I have checked for vacuum leaks and have not found one. Any ideas of what to do with this thing other than get rid of it? I also have a question concerning TD's. Do they have a rear oil seal or is the crank grooved?
Thank you for your time and expertise. Larry Diaz

The high idle you are experiencing with the Stromberg is the fault of the throttle disc. It is being held open by the throttle cable or throttle screw adjustment; or, the overrun valve is so weak (and you have the car so well tuned) that the vacuum is pulling that valve open. Perhaps this Stromberg article at the end of this message may help.

The XPAG/XPEG engines have a scroll thread at the rear of the crank that screws (well, it's supposed to) the oil back into the sump. It is ESSENTIAL during the rebuild that the bottom end of the engine be ALIGN HONED or ALIGN BORED. This ensures that the saddles and the rear slinger are concentric. I do have all the specific technical information in my technical book.
FuelTesting Fuel Pump, Gas Tank Rust I purchased a 1979 MGB Tourer this fall. Negative earth ground. This is
my first MG project. The car was difficult to start due to lack of fuel
when I purchased it. The car appears to have most of the original fuel
lines which I am in the process of replacing along with auto body repair,
etc. I have removed the fuel pump and would like to know if there is a
way for me to test the pump at home or if I would be better off boxing it
up and sending to you to get checked out. What does a new fuel pump cost
versus a rebuild?

I've removed the gas tank and repainted the exterior. No rusted through
spots. There is some rust on the interior. Any suggestions for
"stabilizing" the interior gas tank rust short of replacing the fuel
tank?

Thank you,
Russ Holder

RUSS! A good idea to change the fuel hoses! The original lines fail, not
with pinholes, but splitting along their length, gushing gasoline
EVERYWHERE. They are very, very dangerous! Modern American fuel line,
reinforced with webbing (the regular kind of fuel line) is a perfect
substitute.
The main reason the fuel pump quits working is because of a loss of power
or earth. Use your 12v test light to ensure that the WHITE wire attached
to the pump is HOT, ignition ON; and that the body of the pump is EARTH.
Easiest way: connect the test light to the WHITE wire and push the prick
end against the metal solenoid body of the pump. The light should
illuminate. Loss of power is most often the "impact switch" located behind
the dash above your left knee (it pops and disconnects when the car has
been hit, jarred, or shocked); loss of earth is most often the
disconnection of the large ring of BLACK earth wires behind the licence
plate bracket.
There is no way to clean or protect the gasoline tank other than removing
it from the vehicle. And, at that point, spend the money and fit a new
one! Fitting a "see-through" gasoline filter in place of the metal can is
a good solution to monitoring a dirty tank.

Hope this helps!
FuelRebuilding Fuel PumpI AM LOOKING FOR A MAJOR REBUILD KIT (ALL SEALS AND DIAPHRAGM) FOR AN SU
FUEL PUMP ON A 73 MGB ROADSTER. THE BODY IS IN GOOD SHAPE.

THANKS FOR ANY HELP.

PETER

Peter! Let me warn you that 10% of fuel pump rebuilds fail. Therefore,
for the $50 or so that you'll spend on the parts, the price of the new pump
(about $100), makes the $50 extra that you've spent a good insurance
policy. The $50 that you've saved won't mean much if you find yourself
sitting by the side of the road. This is just my experience -- you may be
fortunate to be in the 90% group!
FuelMixturejohn, the mixture was too rich which flooded the carb and woudn't let it
run
or restart. I guess it shut off instead off getting the cat red hot,
better
then a fire, I drove the car up and down the driveway. It seems fine and
mixture seems right as you explained in your article and haynes manual.
Another aspect of the mgb I have learned, with your help. Its hard to
work on
something when you haven't seen it done. Now I can teach someone else.
I'll
take it to a friend to check the co next week.


thanks again for your help and patience. It must be hard to talk to
hobbiests
that are not mechanics. but I worked in auto parts in my youth

thanks again

larry strassman

Larry!

I'm so pleased that the car is running better. Stay in touch!
FuelProblems With Air FilterJOHN LARRY AGAIN, SINCE I SPOKE TO YOU LAST CAR STARTS FINE AND IDLES
NICELY,
RAISING PISTON AND IT SEEMS RIGHT . DROVE UP AND DOWN DRIVEWAY SEEMED
FINE,
W/O AIR FILTER. WITH AIR FILTER WON' T MOVE VERY FAST 0-60 IN ABOUT A
HOUR.
FILTER DOESN'T LOOK DIRTY WIFE SAYS CAR STINKS MORE THEN SHE REMEMBERS.
SMOKE
OUT OF TAILPIPE CLEAR AT IDLE , BLACK ON REVING. STILL TO RICH, TO LEAN
NEED
CO METER? ANY THOUGHTS WOULD BE APPRECIATED

Larry! The air cleaner richens the mixture -- so it MUST be on when you
adjust the carb. How to lift the piston? Unscrew the damper, angle it off
to the side, and lift. It will grab the side of the dashpot and allow the
piston to rise.
Remember, when the carb is adjusted correctly the rpm will increase about
50 when the piston begins to be lifted, then fall off. Use that 1/8" allen
wrench down the middle of the piston to change the mixture. Clockwise is
rich. Make the initial turns, one turn at a time; then by halves; then by
quarters. The car MUST be HOT (Normal on the temp gauge) and you MUST have
half a tank of good gasoline.
You are having such a time with this! Are you absolutely CERTAIN that the
plugs are clean and gapped to 0.035", that the timing is set at 15 BTDC at
1500 vacuum disconnected, that you have no manifold air leaks?
FuelBuying Rebuilt Stromberg CarbHello!

I have a 1979 M.G. midget with a Stromberg 150CD-4T carburetor,
Stromberg #C3962. I am looking to buy a rebuilt one. Please email me
information about availability and cost.

Thank you very much.

Gary Sonnenberg

GARY!

Please read over the two articles, attached, to give you some ideas
before you take the plunge and purchase a rebuilt carb. On the other hand,
you can send yours to me and I'll rebuild it for about $300. Turnaround
right now is probably three weeks. In another two weeks the turnaround will
be two weeks. BUT, you can probably find the problem by working with the
articles attached -- and/or calling me during my technical hour 1-2pm EST
Monday - Friday at 616 682 0800.

Fast Forward!
FuelWeber CarbsI just came across your web site and must say that I am impressed.
Some very good reading there! I have a quick question for you, and that
is:
My 1973 MGB SU carbs are in desperate need of an overhaul. Is
it worth it in time and hassle, and performance, to go with Webber
Carbs? I've been thinking about it for a while.
Any input would be welcome.
Thanks;
Jonathan Shaffner

JONATHAN!

I hope I've not written too late. Throw away that order for the
Weber carb! Work with/repair the HIF carbs -- you'll be more pleased --
I'll be more pleased.

The SUs are wonderful carbs -- but after a time parts need to be
replaced! So, in yours, it is the floats, the needles and seats, the jets,
the needles, but MOST OF ALL, the small O rings that make up the rotary
chokes. Once these begin to leak, all efforts to tune the car -- and later,
all attempts to drive the car, are wrought with frustration.

You can do this work yourself -- it's not difficult -- OR, you can
send them to me. The turnaround time right now is about three weeks. In
another month, it'll be down to two weeks.

If Kimber has wanted Webers on MGs, he would have make a deal with
Mussolini in the 30's.

SAFETY FAST!
FuelFuel PumpHello John!

I have a question about the fuel pump in my '66 Midget (10CC).

Over the years, I have experienced hesitation, loss of power, and other
assorted power ills that we, on occasion, have talked about. I never
could
find an electrical problem and always suspected my fuel system. Now, my
fuel
pump isn;'t working (pumping). I have rebuild this pump twice in the last
6
years. I am ready to replace it completely rather than rebuilding again.

My question: I the various cataloges, British Victoria, Moss, etc., the
fuel
pumps are listed as Negative or Positive. I'm assuming Negative means
negative ground, and Positive, as positive ground. My car is wired as
Negative ground, yet the pictures they show of the positive fuel pump
isn't
the one I have, and the picture of the one I have is listed as Positive.
What do I need to do - if anything - when replacing the pump being sure
the
polarity is correct?

Hopefully I can get the machine back on the road this summer.

Best wishes,

Mark V'Soske

MARK!

A couple of notes: rebuilding an electric fuel pump is an exercise
in futility. Rarely does the rebuild work well -- and when you're stalled
on US 23 in heavy traffic, you probably wish that you'd purchased a new one!

The fuel pumps have points, just like the distributor. To keep the
points from burning up, a condenser was fitted, just like the distributor.
Lately (past ten years), a new and improved method of keeping the points
from sparking has been introduced -- fitting of a diode instead of a
condenser. This "new and improved" method works well, BUT you MUST observe
battery polarity! If the car is wire negative earth, then the pump MUST be
negative earth. If the car is still POSITIVE earth, the pump MUST be
positive. A mismatch caused a nearly dead short through the diode -- it
will glow RED HOT and melt the top of the pump. So these pumps are new, but
maybe not "improved."

Buy the negative earth pump for your car.

Say hello to John Alexander when you see him!

SAFETY FAST!
FuelGasHi,

I cannot find lead additive in my area for my '73
and '77 MGB.

I tried all the regular auto parts stores in my area.

Do you have lead additive for sale??

Please advise. Many thanks.

Tom Lawrence

TOM! No need to waste your money on mystery cans. Simply use 89 octane.
Some day, you will burn out your exhaust valves -- usually number three
exhaust. At that time be certain to have installed: hardened seats;
bronze-silicone guides; umbrella seals. The 1977 was designed to run on
unleaded; the 1973 will run just fine too! My wife's 1973 MGB/GT has used
89 octane for the past fifteen years.

FAST FORWARD!
FuelFuel PumpThanks for the tips on bleeding the brakes and locating the line that
blows a fuse.

Took the fuel line off at the front T and pumped out two bottles of
Coke. But the fuel pump still works continuously. Have run the '68B
roadster for only a few minutes at a time from the street (where I keep
it covered so that the lack of plates will not be noticed) to the
driveway 10' away where I can work on it. Might the problem go away
when I get it registered and can run it around the beltway? If that
doesn't work, I'll take off the fuel line at the pump and pump out gas.

Got a used folding frame for the top (I have the stowaway frame). The
seller gave me a 1" flat, countersunk bolt. Now I know the thread but
the seller said that each side takes two different lengths of bolts. If
so, what lengths?

I may need seat belts, the ones without the take-up creel. Would you
have a set of good used or new ones? If so, how much?

Thanks again.

Jerry Stilkind

JERRY! If the fuel pump is an original, SU pump, then it will shut off
once the pressure in the fuel line reaches about 2-3psi. If the pump does
NOT shut off, but continues chattering away, then: you're out of gas;
you've got a leak in the inlet line (which would result in tiny bubbles in
the gasoline pumping into the Coke bottle); you've got a failure in one of
the one way valves in the pump (cannot remember when that was a problem).
Some aftermarket pumps hum and hum and hum!!
You are correct, however -- if you drive the car, sometimes (should I say
"rarely?") the problem will go away.

Those bolts holding the top frame on the car are 1/4-28 flathead phillips.
We used to have a source for them, but now purchase them from Moss.

I would simply purchase new seat belts -- three point fixed -- unless you're
really keen on the original BMC "Magnetic" belts. For those, contact Jeff at
Motorhead; look at www.mgcars.org.uk; and/or advertise directly in some of
the MG club publications -- the Washington DC Centre is right there -- and
they have many, many members with many, many MGs. Someone has what you
want!

Call me during my tech hour any day, Jerry, I enjoy speaking with you.
FuelGas Tank VentingDear Mr. Twist:
I own 3 MGBs: a 1965; a 1970 (GT); and a 1975. The 65 and 70 have had
their original gas tanks replaced, and the 75 still retains its factory
installed tank. Every summer I encounter a situation that has been a real
puzzle. On hot days, gasoline in the fuel tank backs up the filler
connection, pushes out the vented cap and spills all over the back bumper.
I've talked with several people in an effort to find out what is going on.
Everyone has theories on why it happens, but the only working solution is
"don't fill up the tanks when the weather is warm, or going to be warm."
Only recently has it occurred to me that the 75 (with the original tank
still in place) doesn't suffer from the overspilling. Additionally, I
reread, more carefully, several of my MG books and came across the statement
that factory installed gas tanks have some sort of "buffer" inside to absorb
expansion that gasoline undergoes when the ambient temperature gets very
warm. Apparently, the after-market replacement tanks do not contain this
"expansion" buffer, and this is why such tanks overflow when the gasoline
inside expands. What do you think?
Sincely yours.
Kevin J. Holland

Kevin!

Gas tanks, from the T series through the 1969 MGB were vented
directly to the atmosphere. In this "old fashioned" method, gasoline
expansion pushed air/fuel mixture out of the vent hole in the cap to the
air; conversely, as the gasoline was used, air would enter the tank to
replace the gasoline, through that same vent.

In 1970 (through 1980), an improved system was installed. These
tanks have an internal expansion chamber, AND, the cars were fitted with an
expansion tank at the right rear of the boot. Now, any expansion of the
gasoline forces the air/fuel mixture from the tank to the expansion tank,
and from there through the charcoal adsorption canister (rear of the RH side
of the underbonnet), and from there into the atmosphere. The activated
charcoal captures most of the fuel vapor. When the engine is running,
fresh air is drawn through the charcoal adsorption canister and vented into
the carburetters, thereby purging the charcoal canister of the fumes.

The problem with this new and improved system is twofold. First, if
the lines in the boot crack open (which they ALL are doing in the 1977 -
1980 MGBs), then the fuel vapor fills the boot and makes its way into the
cockpit, nauseating the occupants! Secondly, if the line from the expansion
tank to the charcoal canister becomes plugged, then the tank bulges from the
pressure (the fuel cap will eventually vent excess pressure), but the tank
will implode from lack of air to replace the gasoline used. I've seen new
gas tanks sucked up flat from this problem!

Whether the aftermarket tanks contain this internal expansion
cavity, I do not know. But if connected to the proper fittings, expansion
of the gasoline should not be a problem. Factory tanks carry an "NRP"
prefix on the part number.
FuelGas Smell HELLO JOHN,,,IVE HEARD NOTHING BUT GOOD ABOUT YOU,,AND I HOPE TO GET TO
PERSONALLY MEET YOU SOME DAY,,THE PROBLEM I HAVE IS A FAINT GAS SMELL WHEN
DRIVING MY CAR(77MGB),,IVE CHECKED UNDER THE CAR,,,UNDER THE
HOOD,,,CANNISTER,,,ETC,,,NO LUCK,,,AS FAR AS SEEING ANY LEAKS,,,AGAIN,,ITS
FAINT,,,BUT WHEN DRIVING,,EVEN WITH THE TOP DOWN,,YOU CAN SMELL IT...ANY
IDEAS???THANKS ,,,VINCE,ROCHESTER NY

Vince!

The late model MGBs 1977 - 1980, used a type of non-reinforced hose
in the fuel system that is DANGEROUS on the pressure side and aggravating on
the ELC (Evaporative Loss Control) side. In the former, this fuel line is
used between the tank and pump, pump and line, line and filter, filter and
rollover valve, and rollover valve and carb. Lots of line to change TODAY!!
PLUS, the rollover valves are now all leaking (some SAFETY device) and
should be plumbed out of the system.
In the latter, the non-reinforced line connects the fuel tank to the fuel
evap canister in the boot (right side), the evap canister to the line, the
line to the charcoal canister. The lines in the boot are the ones that have
split. You are getting the smell from there!
Fuel77 MGB John
I have a 77 MGB with a Zenith carb. Here in Georgia we are getting serious
about emissions on even older cars. I feel I will have to clean up this
car
by getting a catalitic converter and changing the carb. What is the most
cost effective and technically effective way to do this. I have heard
using
two HSU carbs or using one big HSU carb that bolts to the existing
manfold.
Can you give me some guidance before I have something done.

Thanks

Tom Jostworth
Atlanta, Ga.

TOM!

Your 1977 MGB was originally fitted with a Zenith Stromberg 175CD
carburetter, a catalytic converter, an ELC system, and a smog pump. If you
will have to meet emissions regulations, you'd better not stray from the
original carb, but instead rework your original system to original specs.
The car will run just fine with the original equipment!

You can, for instance, send that carb to me for a rebuild -- we
charge about $300 for a complete rebuild. You can purchase a new carb from
Moss or Victoria. I can also supply the converter (used) and the complete
air pump assembly if you are really serious about doing this correctly.

If you are interested in making the car run really well, then a
conversion to dual SUs is just the nuts! I would not, however, use a Marina
manifold (dual front exhaust and single carb) as the carb will sit on an
angle, and screw up the float height. Neither would I substitute a 1 3/4 SU
for the 1 3/4 Stromberg.

Hope this makes sense.
Fuel1952 MGTD Hello, I am looking for a breather plug for the valve cover to my 52'
MGTD as I have replaced the air filters with chrome after market air
cleaners. Please let me know if you have this in stock, as well as an
800 number and parts catalog.

Thanks, Doug

DOUG!

We do not sell parts by mail order. I would fashion something
attractive and simply block off that port. You DO have a 3/4" ID pipe that
hangs from the left side of the engine. That should give you pretty good
ventilation in nearly all situations. On the other hand, consider using a
1/2" piece of black fuel hose and routing that to one of the carbs. Use an
expanded 1/2" OD screen door spring inside the 1/2" fuel line to keep it
from collapsing when you make that tight 90 degree turn!SAFETY FAST!
FuelZenith- Stromberg Throttle Response I acquired '79B (Arizona car - NO RUST but sorely neglected). Because it
had no rust I decided to spend some money on it and I have done a lot of
work to get it back into original condition (in some cases maybe better
than original). I tend to lean toward originality (I even like the
backfire on deceleration). I have replaced the entire interior, dash,
windscreen, front end rebuild, clutch assembly, all new chrome fittings,
new top, had it professionally repainted to original Russet Brown while
I had all the lights and chrome off (wish it were BRG like my '74 E-type
I bought new and let slip away- no kicking necessary -- I've already
kicked myself enough), etc. etc.. The intent was to end up with a nice
stock car. I don't mind spending whatever it takes to get it running to
match the way it looks. It was running fine (idle was rough but
tolerable) when I acquired it and gradually went down hill. Till it
finally got to the point that down hill was about all it would do.


Carb was so rich the heat from the catalytic converter melted the
plastic knob on the damper. I replaced the damper and the EGR and Gulp
valve as a precaution thinking the diaphragms might fail from the
effects of the heat and leave me stranded. And while I was doing that I
went ahead and replaced the PCV valve. The pump seems to be fine. The
diaphragm in the carb is ok. All of this took place before I found your
web site.
Enough background.

Now, when I release the throttle between shifts, the rpm will
momentarily increase then about a second later drop off to an idle. A
second is really a long time when you approach a traffic light and let
off the accelerator and the car continues at speed for that second
before decelerating. The carb is still rich and I am waiting on an
adjustment tool to correct this. I don't know if it is going to solve
the problem. I've been told this was normal. If so, isn't this a little
rough on the clutch? not to mention dangerous in a sudden situation when
you need to stop quickly? Have you ever run across this before? Any
suggestions would be appreciated. I am not very familiar with MG having
only had this on about a year but am not a stranger to auto mechanics.

I have read your article on detoxing and on those damn Zenith-Stromberg
carbs. I have also ordered your technical manual.
Do you recommend detox? Is the result really worth the effort? I would
prefer smooth running and idle over originality in this case, but if
good idle and smooth running can be obtained with originality that would
preferable. We do not have emission testing in this part of the state
but any knowledgeable mechanic would miss the pump and fittings -
especially on a later year car.

Thanks for your time. I wish I lived closer to your location and could
just drop this off to have it tuned up.


Ed Dudley

ED!

The problem you describe is caused by problems in the emission
control system. If you remove the smog system, and do it correctly, then
all these problems will disappear (except the richness). Let me try to
explain what is happening.

When you de-celerate, the manifold depression (vacuum) rises
dramatically, as the engine wants to suck in as much air as it can. The
sensing tube connected to the gulp valve transfers this vacuum to the valve,
which then opens. The air pump blows fresh air, under pressure, into the
exhaust manifold. Now there is supposed to be a restrictor in the line from
the pump to the gulp valve -- this is often missing. That hose is about
1/2" diameter, but the restrictor has a hole which is only about 1/8"
diameter! Because your car is running rich, this extra air improves
combustion and the car runs better (faster).
Additionally, there is an "overrun" valve in the throttle disc. The
manifold depression causes this to open, which slows deceleration (and lets
more of the over-rich mixture into the intake manifold). The pop pop
popping from the exhaust is the unburned gasoline igniting as at passes
beyond the catalytic converter (if you have one).

What to do? First, get the mixture back to "normal." Ensure there
is a restrictor in the hose from the pump to the valve. If the spring
tension on the overrun valve is too weak, change the throttle disc.

OR: Remove all that stuff, solder up the valve, and the car will
run GREAT!

You make mention of a PCV valve. There is no PCV valve in the
system. I wonder who has added what, or what it is you are describing.

Hope this offers some slight assistance.

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
FuelMixtureThanks for the info. The PCV mentioned was actually EGR (opps). I plan
to follow your suggestions.
I've adjusted the mixture and the difference in performance is already astounding. Once I get it to decelerate properly it will be really nice.
Thanks again. Ed Dudley
FuelFUEL TANK SENDING UNIT hello.. just a quick question please.. what is the OHM reading for a 1978
MGB FUEL TANK sending unit.. both the EMPTY and FULL settings..

also, where might i send my original gauges to get the fronts of them
redone.. ? i would prefer to have my gauge faces white with black letters
/
numbers


John "BARNEY" Bauernhuber

BARNEY!

I believe the range is from about 50 to 200 ohms, something like
that -- but I forgot to test a unit today at work. If you want, call me at
the shop during my technical hour 1-2pm EST Monday - Friday, and I'll pull
one from stock and check it as you wait. Try me at 616 682 0800. BUT!!
Don't try me Tuesday or Wednesday. I'll be home doing necessary paperwork!

SAFETY FAST!
John Twist, Service Manager
Fuel"Online" and Zenith Carbs 1) I recently bought an '80 MGBLE , which has a rough idle. A thread on
the
MG Car Enthusiasts site refers to an article by John Twist "Those Damned
Zenith-Strombergs' which was recomended as a tuning guide. I wonder how I
might get a copy.
2) I tried to find same on your "online" section, but could not open that
page. Perhaps a problem exists with that site.
Thanks for helping!
Bill Cole

Now available by emailing me directly, or purchasing my technical book. Thanks. John
FuelChoke Hi John,

My name is Larry, I just received a LE MGB - mfg. 6/79, with 21K miles,
from a
friend, who was the original owner. Basically, he just retired and
passed along his
"toy" to me. As a result I am on a very steep learning curve on MG
repairs.

After reading your article " Those Damned Zenith Strombergs" and see
your reference concerning a manual choke conversion. it appear that this
information is just what I need.

Basically, I dealing with what you call running rich. There is quite of
bit of carbon coming
out of the exhaust and new plug have a thin carbon dusting after running
the engine for a
few minutes. Another observation is that I need to keep the engine
running 1500 rpm
or it will die. Once it does, it appears to want to " cool down" before
I can get it started
again.

Anyway, I am curious to know your recommendations. It has been
recommended, as
thought process.
1. Get the automatic choke working, temporary solution. Do you have any
detailed
instructions? I have a hayes manual and Leyton.
2. Consider installing a manual choke, slightly longer term view.
3. Consider installing Weber DGV carburetor, longer view. but should
keep the old
Zenith 175 CD2, in case I need to switch back for some
"inspections". In this case
there appears to be three varieties - electric chokes, water chokes
and manual. The
recommendation is to install a manual.

Any comments are greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Larry

Newbe to MGBs

Larry!

Keep the original carburetter. The cost of a manual choke or a
complete carb replacement exceeds a rebuild of your carb. I've enclosed
more information about those Strombergs -- perhaps something here will be
helpful.

Disconnect the choke from the carb (three slotted, copper colored
screws). Run the engine. Is it still so rich?
If the carb seems OK (or at least is adjustable) with the choke
disconnected, then the choke or the mating flange is the problem. If the
carb continues to run rich (and is not adjustable) with the choke
disconnected, then the problem is the float height, jet, or needle (or a
combination).

Hope this little bit helps.

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
Fuelrunning too richJohn, Thank you for setting me straight on leaning my TD. I called you during tech hour earlier this month about black smoke, fouled plugs, and 8 mpg. You gave me 4 suggestions; The 1st was to disconnect the chokes. When I did this the front carb choke slammed closed. The rod connecting the levers was about 1/4 inch short, thus leaving the choke partially operating. I should have called you 3 sets of plugs ago, to say nothing of 1200 miles at 8 mpg. Things are very smooth now and I am getting 22 mpg. Should I try any gas additive to help clean out the mess I may have created in the combustion chambers or manifold?

Thanks again
Bob ellis

Bob!

I think a high speed run will clean the plugs better than any can of magic. Make certain you're using the correct plugs! Very often the head has been exchanged and the plug that SHOULD fit the car is wrong. Measure the depth of the threads in the cylinder head for an "L" plug (1/2") or an "N" plug (3/4"). Use an L-86 or L-87 or an N-5.


John
Fuelmanual chokeplease send info on zenith carb choke, i just bought a 1980 le with an underhood fire, an am wondering what to do? someone told me to put a manual choke on this one and use it, i also have older su carbs i could possiby fix or buy a weber.any thoughts about which is best for the least amount of money? the car has only 30k miles on it.


thanks

Ron!

If you are concerned with originality, then you should rebuild the Stromberg and refit it. If you are looking for the least expensive option, you should rebuild the Stromberg. If you want "retro" power, then the SUs are in your future -- those twin 1 1/2" carbs draught half again as much air/fuel as the Stromberg. The Weber is clean and fast, but you'll need an exhaust manifold -- and the headers the vendors sell with the Weber are noisy, they leak, and they are headaches.

If you brought your MGB to my shop, I'd urge you to rebuild the Stromberg. If you can't rebuild it yourself, send it to me! Prices are on my website.

SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
FuelRebuilding original carb - remove cat. converter john if i rebuild the original carb shold i leave the cat. converter on or remove, i plan on removing all smog stuff thanks, ronald

Ron!

If you are concerned with originality, then you should rebuild the Stromberg and refit it. If you are looking for the least expensive option, you should rebuild the Stromberg. If you want "retro" power, then the SUs are in your future -- those twin 1 1/2" carbs draught half again as much air/fuel as the Stromberg. The Weber is clean and fast, but you'll need an exhaust manifold -- and the headers the vendors sell with the Weber are noisy, they leak, and they are headaches.

If you brought your MGB to my shop, I'd urge you to rebuild the Stromberg. If you can't rebuild it yourself, send it to me! Prices are on my website.

SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
Fuel1970 MGB Hi John,

First, let me say that I recently checked your tech tips page out and it
is very, very nice. Thanks for all of the information. I have two
questions for you. And here they are:

I have a stock 1970 MGB with dual S.U. HS4 carbs. This car is so
difficult to start in cold weather. When I pull out the choke, I don't
feel the accelerator being pulled away from my foot like I thought I did
when I ran another set of S.U.s on my 1976 B. I thought the first 1/3
should be a fast idle-like movement.? Second, even when it is warm, if I
pull out the choke the whole way out, the engine doesn't 'load up' like I
thought it would. It idles the same with the choke in as it does the whole
way out. Does this mean that the choke/fast idle mechanism isn't working at
all on these carbs? Any suggestions on what I should do or with what might
be happening there? What should I look for?

BILL!

Have your associate (Kim?) pull the choke while you watch the carbs.
The jets should drop AT LEAST 1/4" from the bottom of the jet bearing. If
they don't, then you'll have to lubricate the linkages. Secondly, the idle
SHOULD increase. This is more difficult since it's so hard to reach the
fast idle screws (on the bottom of the linkages). Remove the air cleaners
and have your associate HOLD the choke cable so that the engine runs as fast
as it will. Adjust the fast idle screws so that each carb is drawing the
same amount of air AND the engine is idling at about 1800 rpm.
FuelMGB Fuel Pump and FuseJohn!
I installed an inline fuse on the white wire to the fuel pump on my 1980 MGB, I need to know what size fuse to install. Thanks for your time and help.

Richard O'Connor
King, NC

Richard!

I just measured the coil in the fuel pump to find it has 3 ohms. So, when the points close and full current runs through the coil, it's drawing just over 4 amps (3ohms x 4amps = 12 volts). I would fit a 5 amp fuse here -- but since the initial draw might be a surge, be prepared to change that to a ten amp fuse. You are trying to avoid burned wiring from a dead short, so a 10 amp fuse should protect you very well. I'm interested to know if the five amp fuse works -- perhaps you can write back and tell me!

John

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
Phone: (616) 682 0800
Fax: (616) 682 0801
www.universitymotorsltd.com
John

Thank you for the your time to calculate the amperage of a su fuel pump. I tried a five amp fuse and it works fine. I haven't driven the car I detailing it for show. The car sat 20 years and has less than 400 miles on it. So when I bought it I had to go through the carburetor. Actually I had the local MG mechanic show me.

I put the carburetor on the car and proceeded to run the back the needle adjustment out too far and had to take it apart and fix it. I did everything you mentioned in the article you send me, "Those damn Zenith Strombergs". Now in some circles I am not considered right up stairs, but I kind of like these carburetors. My problem is the car runs rich when the choke is on, black smoke out the tail pipe and back fires. How can I fix this?

Thanks again for your help. I have wanted one of these cars since I was 13 and sat in a MG Midget in a dealership in East Liverpool, Ohio. Now at 46 I am glad I bought this one.


Richard O'Connnor


Richard!

There is a fellow in East Liverpool with whom I used to buy and sell parts -- Bob Beck. He and Janet lived on Allison Street; he had T type MGs. Wonder if he's still around those parts?

Hope all's well with your fuel pump!

John

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
Phone: (616) 682 0800
Fax: (616) 682 0801
www.universitymotorsltd.com






Fuel1972 MGB/GT Vapor Recovery System Failure John,
1972 MGB/GT
Can't find an answer anywhere. Fuel is pouring out of the vapor recovery
charcoal canister through the overflow onto the ground. Where do I start
to
eliminate this obvious vapor recovery system failure?
Appreciate the help.
Ed

Ed!

Your HIF carbs are overflowing -- that gasoline is pouring into the
charcoal canister and from there into the engine and onto the ground. What
to do?

Change the oil and filter.

Remove the charcoal canister and let the charcoal pellets ventilate.
Activate them by lighting them with your propane torch and turning them, as
they burn, until they simply won't burn by themselves anymore. Do this
AFTER! most of the gasoline has evaporated.

Change the fuel pump to a factory model if you have an aftermarket
pump on the car. You cannot exceed 3psi!!!

Remove the carbs, replace the needle and seats with the Viton tipped
valves. The new "Grose Valves" on the market do NOT fit the HIFs, no matter
what the advertisements say!
Joe Curto sells the Viton tipped valves.

Hope this helps!

John
FuelFump Pump & Tachometer Are Talking to each other...Howdy from the Nickel City!

Just got back in the "British car thing" again with a '72 Midget after selling my '74 Midget back in 1993. I guess the call of an empty garage was too much to handle.

O.K. here is the problem - when the ignition key is moved to the "on position" but not to "start" you can hear the very slow clicking of the electrical fuel pump (looks like an original Lucas unit to me) but at the same time the Tach needle jumps to the same beat on each fuel pump click.
Very strange. The car is from the West Coast and I am slowly replacing all of the rubber gaskets and rubber items as I move around the outside of the car. I expect to work my way under the dashboard later next week. Anything to check as to why both electrical units are dancing together?

Mike Pelone

Mike!

The 1972 Midgets began with 105501, so your Midget must be between that number and 123730 (beginning of 1973). You should have an alternator. Follow me through on this: the tach takes its pulse as the current passes from the key switch to the hot side of the coil. The key switch is BROWN on the HOT side, and WHITE on the IGN ON side. There are three WHITE wires. One goes to the tach and from there to the coil. One goes to the ignition warning light. The last goes to the fuel pump and the fusebox. It must be that the fuel pump has been incorrectly wired to/through the ignition coil circuit -- and that results in the pulse you see when the pump operates.

At least that's what I can figure out on a hot Saturday night sitting at my computer!

John
FuelRebuilt CarbsDear John:

You recently rebuild my carbs. They were off of a 1974 MGB, chrome bumper.
The air pump, air manifold and related tubing have been removed - I'm the guy that had the screw fall OUT of the engine. The evaporative loss system has been left intact.

I followed your instructions - I believe - and installed the carbs. I have two problems that may or may not be related.

First, the at rest idle drifts. This was also a problem before the rebuild. I believe now that it started when the air pump and manifold were removed. If I set the idle between 800 - 900 RPM, it will (sometimes) drop to 500 - 600 RPM when I come to a stoplight.

Second, the car is running hot. I've had the car for six years now and only once did the running temp rise above N. That was a faultily thermostat, so I tried a new thermostat, no luck. Now the only was to stop the temp from continuing to rise is to turn on the heater. This happens whatever the outside temperature; I could be in traffic in 90 degrees, or just idling in the shade at 70 degrees. The only other things that help is travailing over 60 MPH.

Any help or direction you could give me would greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Butch Parilo
Fuel1969 MGC/GT Fuel Problem
Hi. I have owned a 1969 MGC-GT since 1984. I lived overseas for several
years so
it got limited use for a long time and since coming back I've had a fuel
problem
so I just haven't driven it for fear of it catching on fire.

I'll explain the problem and hope you can offer some suggestions as to
what the
problem is. What happens is that when I turn on the ignition, fuel pours
out of
an overflow pipe at the carburetor and runs down the side of engine. I had
Gross
jets in it (since the mid 80's) so I replaced them with new standard
needle
valve jets thinking that the float valve was not shutting off the fuel to
the
carbs but it still made no difference.

I have a friend who's a mechanic and he told me the pressure from my fuel
pump
may be too high and that's what's causing it. He suggested possibly an
in-line
fuel regulator. I took an old regulator he had and used it just to test it
out
(I really don't want a jerry-rigged set-up) and it appeared to solve the
problem. However, I struggled to get it to balance between shutting the
fuel
down enough to keep it from pouring out yet still feed fuel to run the
engine.

Q: Do you think I am dealing with a faulty fuel pump?

Q: I replaced the stock fuel pump back in the 80's with an electronic one
because the factory unit went out. If it is the fuel pump, do you have a
replacement and how much would it cost (how do I order one)?

If you think it may be something else please let me know. Any advice you
can
provide would be appreciated.

Also, I am missing the "C" in MGC-GT on the rear hatch.

Q: Do you have any of those or know where can I get one?

Finally, I am considering selling the car once I get the fuel problem
fixed
because I just don't seem to have the time for it that I used to. I bought
it
with 34K original miles (it apparently had sat for a long time based on
the
rotor corrosion) and have dumped a lot of money into it mechanically over
the
years. I fully restored it in 1992 replacing the rusted out rocker panels
and
lower rear quarters with metal panels, detailed the engine cmpt.,
repainted the
wire wheels, etc.. a class "A" job. It has new carpet and it has always
ran
great except for this fuel overflow problem. The only thing really left to
restore is the original leather seats which are very tattered. It is BRG
in
color. It now has 42K miles original.
Q: Do you have an idea of what it's value may be (ballpark) and what the
best
way to sell it would be since MG's are a pretty specialized market?

Q: Would there be any opportunities to sell it through your organization?

I live in Richmond, KY which is just south of Lexington off I75. Thanks
for your
help and advice.

Regards,

Dave
Dave!

The factory fuel pump is always the best one -- it delivers plenty
of fuel (flow) but maintains a low pressure (max 3 lbs). The standard
needle and seats (especially the Vitron tipped ones) can handle that three
pounds pressure with no difficulty.

You'll want to tie in with the American MGC Register; also look
through Hemmings Motor News, British Car Magazine, as well as Classic MG
Magazine and a recent copy of Moss Motoring. These will help you decide
where, between $10,000 and $14,000 (or so), you'll want to price your car.

Find ALL the MG club sites from www.mgcars.org.uk

Hope this helps!

John
Fuel1979 MGB - fitting dual carbsJohn,
It was just as you thought the voltage stabiliser. It had gotten moved out
of
level when I was working under the dash before the problem started. I have
a79 B I'm thinking about installing SU carburettors,I currently have a
downdraft Weber. I have two sets of SU's AUD326R ,405R that need rebuilt .
Which of these would be suitable for my application and is it difficult to
install with nothing to compare too?
(such as hoses and linkage)

Thanks For Your Help
Randy
Randy!

You can probably find another MG owner not too far away and use his
MG as a guide for your installation. I prefer the HS carbs (float bowls on
the side) rather than the HIF (float bowls on the bottom), but either are
OK. I also prefer the vented HS carbs (a vent between the suction chamber
and the throttle disc, at 45 degrees, to the front of the front and to the
rear of the rear), so that you can hook up the emission controls more
easily.


John
FuelFuel Pump Wiring


My problem is while driving along at hiway speeds on the freeway in California, I ran over a 4x4 piece of lumber laying across the road. I ran over the 4x4 with my left front tire and it made a loud bang as it hit the underside of the car. The car took the bump rather well considering, but about 2 miles down the road the car started to act like it was running out of gas. I pulled off of the freeway and off to the side of a road where I had plenty of room to check out the car safely. I notice that the fuel pump was not ticking and I was not getting gas into the carb. My trusty test light showed that I was not getting power to the fuel pump. I have by-passed the roll over switch because it had been leaking previously. My question is, there a fuse that I can't find that allows power to the fuel pump? I would like suggestions as where to look before I start taking wiring looms apart to see where the white wire from the fuel pump eventually ends up. My MGB is a 1980 LE by the way. Any information that you may render would surely be appreciated. I've searched your manual and couldn't find this information anywhere. Thanks in advance for any help you can give. Bob


I was transferring files tonight when I came upon yours. You have, no doubt, found that the "impact switch" which lies above your left knee had "popped." Usually, simply depressing that switch (or is it pulling it up?) will reset it. What did you find?

John

FuelMore power to 79 MGB in CarbsHey, John!

I'm looking for wisdom to help me with my '79 MGB roadster. It's stock, but I have fond memories of the power and relative simplicity of my '63 'B ("Rodney the Batmobile" - long story).

I have a set of SU HIF carbs from a '72 B (probably need overhaul), and a free-flow exhaust header. Would like to detox, swap out Zenith and associated exhaust/catatonic converter and hopefully get closer to that '63 performance. =o)

Any and all articles helpful in this quest would be vastly appreciated. Also paid for.

Thanks!!
-Chris
Chris!

With proper tuning, you can make that single Stromberg pretty snappy. If that route does not make the car as fast and reliable as you wish, then the dual carb conversion is a good route. A couple of comments.

Use the factory exhaust manifold rather than the header. All headers are noisy, all headers leak, all headers are headaches. Rebuild the HIF's before you use them. The existing distributor will be OK -- but if the distributor is from an unknown origin, make certain that it matches the carbs.

John
Fuelthrottle open?John,

I'm helping the kid next door with his 77 MGB. As soon as the engine starts, it goes to full throttle. We installed a carb kit with all new gaskets, O rings, and a new diaphragm, but the rams still do not respond to the linkage. The butterfly valve opens and closed correctly. How can the engine over rev. when this valve is closed? Piston and damper also seem to be working. I have a 76 Spitfire with a similar crab, but it has never acted like this. I would appreciate any help.

Ray
Ray!

The throttle must still be open! OR, the spring loaded deceleration valve in the butterfly must be weak or jammed open. Unscrew both adjuster nuts for the throttle cable. Make certain the throttle disc closes ALL the way! Make sure the automatic choke is tight and not causing the throttle to jam open. If all else fails, remove the carb to check that spring loaded valve -- but I'll bet it's something easier. Let me know what you found!

John

FuelCarb Rebuild Kit John,

Because I have those crazy British SU Carburettors, no one seems to have
the
rebuild kit or replacement needles. Can you help me out on this?

Here are the numbers:

AUD2277 Tag # FZX1122F

AUD2277 Tag # FZX1122R

Needles: ADN

My online Moss rep said he has tried all of the usual places, but no one
has
them. He recommended I contact a UK company (???)

Can you help me?

Thanks!

Gabe
Well, the guy I use for the odd SU (is that redundant?) is Joe Curto --
Try the phone -- 718 762 7878
FuelCarb Running Rich JOHN,
JOHN, I HAVE ONE QUESTION WHEN ADJUSTING THE
VALVES DO YOU JUST TIGHTEN DOWN TILL THERE IS A LITTLE RESISTANCE ON THE
FEELER GAUGE AND ALSO DO YOU PUSH DOWN ON THE SET SCREW WHILE ADJUSTING,
WHAT
IS THE BEST WAY? I AM GOING TO GO THROUGH AND CHECK THE VALVE CLEARANCE
NEXT.

THANKS,
KARL
Karl!

Follow me through on this:

Run the engine until it's nice and hot; leave the plugs in; remove
the valve cover; you'll notice that two valves are open (down). Adjust the
opposite two valves. What? Imagine a centre line between #4 and #5 valves;
a line of symmetry; an imaginary mirror. The opposite of #1 is #8, the
opposite of #3 is #6. As soon as you've adjusted the valves to 0.010" --
which drags slightly on the feeler, then bump the engine over half a turn
and two other valves will open -- adjust the opposite valves. The number of
the valve open added to the number of the valve to be adjusted always equals
nine. Continue until you're done, then go through and check them quickly.

Hope this has helped!

John

FuelFuel in 71BGreetings John,
I've just purchased my wife a 1971 MG for her birthday. Now it's been
quite
a few years since she had hers and leaded fuel was the norm. What is the
proper procedure for fuel in these cars? Unleaded only, Unleaded with and
additive? High test, If an additive, how much for how many gallons.

Thank-you
Tom
Tom!

I would try the midgrade first -- something like 89 octane. If that
allows the engine to ping / spark knock / diesel, then I would try the high
grade. You cannot purchase leaded gasoline, and even those substitutes
don't really do the job. Just fill it up at the pump. Someday you'll have
to do a valve job -- then you can install hardened seats and better valve
guides -- but until then, just enjoy the drive!

John
FuelTank FuelJohn
Do I have to remove the fuel tank of my B/GT to replace the tank fuel
level sending unit?
Thank you for your consideration.
Roger
Roger!

It is NOT necessary to remove the tank -- but this is a job best
attempted when the tank is very low on fuel! Follow these notes: Jack the
car up on the RH side, so the gasoline flows to the LH (driver's) side. Use
a blunt chisel and tap the three pronged ring anti-clockwise until it falls
away from the small cams on the tank. Fit a NEW seal (ARA 1501) and a NEW
ring (ARA 1502). Fit the seal first, covered in grease; fit the new sending
unit second, front and back surface covered in grease (where it will contact
the sealing ring and the rubber seal), then fit the ring, tapping it slowly
and carefully clockwise until it wants to turn no more. In my shop this is
a half hour job.

John

FuelSU CarbsJohn Twist.
I have a set of HS4 carbs on my mgb powered mga. They have the plastic one piece float i.e.. no metal tab to bend to set the float / fuel level. I am not having any problems with fuel but with emission test's at idle. I feel that I may be getting too much fuel. How can I check/adjust this situation Can you help.
Thankyou.
Roger
Roger!

Ensure that the float height, the distance between the top of the float and the bottom of the float bowl lid, is 1/8 - 3/16", when you hold the assembly upside down. Change the float height by fitting thin washers under the needle and seats.

Hope this helps!

John

FuelHow many amps does a SU fuel pump pullI installed an inline fuse on the white wire to the fuel pump on my 1980 MGB, I need to know what size fuse to install. Thanks for your time and help.

Richard O'Connor
King, NC
Richard!

I just measured the coil in the fuel pump to find it has 3 ohms. So, when the points close and full current runs through the coil, it's drawing just over 4 amps (3ohms x 4amps = 12 volts). I would fit a 5 amp fuse here -- but since the initial draw might be a surge, be prepared to change that to a ten amp fuse. You are trying to avoid burned wiring from a dead short, so a 10 amp fuse should protect you very well. I'm interested to know if the five amp fuse works -- perhaps you can write back and tell me!

John

FuelMGB Z-S CarbMr. Twist-- I would appreciate your thoughts on a problem I'm having with the Zenith- Stromberg carburetor on my 1980 MGB with 10,000 miles. This carb was rebuilt 3 years ago by a very experienced foreign car mechanic. Since then, I have made idle adjustments using your article on these carbs in the Moss catalog as a guide, and always make sure there is adequate oil in the dashpot. The car runs beautifully once it is fully warmed up. The problem I have is cold starting. It must be cranked 3-4 times after sitting overnight before it catches. Then it idles high (1800 rpm), and there is a "popping" sound through the exhaust pipe. This problem only happens when the car sits overnight. After the first start of the day, it starts fine the rest of the day even if it sits for hours. The next morning it is again difficult to start, and the exhaust popping is present. This started last year. Once the engine reaches proper operating temperature, it smoothes out, the idle drops to 900 rpm, and it runs better than it ever has with plenty of power. I assume the problem is with the coolant controlled automatic choke, but don't know how to approach the problem. I want to keep this car completely original, but perhaps I should convert to a manual choke. Do you have any suggestions?
Thank you, Ed
Ed!

I understand (and applaud) your desire to keep your car original. You WILL be able to make it start easily but you probably won't be able to get rid of all the popping as long as the air pump is on the engine and is connected properly.

You are correct: The problem lies in the choke. You have two options -- repair it yourself using my instructions -- or -- send me the automatic choke and I'll fix it.

This is what I would do first: Loosen the 1/2" headed bolt that fastens the water jacket to the heat mass. Then, disconnect the two hoses from the water jacket and plug them with 7/16" bolts. Remove the bolt the rest of the way and CAREFULLY lever the water jacket away from the heat mass. Then, remove the three screws that hold the heat mass to the auto choke.

Remove the heat mass and carefully remove the black plastic insulator. Now you can work with the auto choke and calibrate the heat mass.

Copiously oil the inside of the autochoke, and exercise it -- hold the throttle wide open and move the little lever which engages the bi-metal strip of the heat mass from its 3:00 position to the 12:00 position -- about twenty times.

Place the heat mass in a pan of water and bring it to a boil. Pick the heat mass from the boiling water and inspect the alignment of the bi-metal strip -- well, really the rectangle -- and the line scribed in the circumference of the heat mass. That line is usually ill-defined or worse, completely obliterated. Cut a new line with your hacksaw wherever the rectangle is positioned.

Now reassemble the unit, taking GREAT care to match the finger of the choke with the rectangle of the bi-metal strip. Position all three lines (the boss on the auto choke body, the raised line on the black plastic insulator, and the line you just made with the hacksaw), in line.

Be certain to adjust the carburetter needle with the Stromberg tool in the same manner you would adjust an SU carburetter.

Questions? Write back or call during tech time!

John
FuelSU Carbs Hello John,
My 73 MGB spent the last several years in a barn - it is in good shape
and cranks - However the forward SU had a family of mice in the
aircleaner. (Back carb is perfect ) I cannot get the suction piston out
even though I have been soaking it in carb cleaner for several weeks.
Can it be fixed - are there any tricks to geting it loose? Exchange?
Thanks ,
Bill
Bill!

One trick is the heat, then quench the assembly -- that works
excellently, especially with metals of different compositions (which is not
the case here). Hold the suction chamber with pliers, heat it with your
propane torch for several minutes -- ALWAYS turning the suction chamber so
no one place becomes hotter than another -- then PLUNGE it into a pail of
COLD water. The shock should separate the two easily.

Hope this helps!

John
FuelMGTD Mark II John,

At some time in the past, the original air intake manifold and air cleaner
canister from my Mark II (12086 TD/C 11593) were removed and lost.
Chrome air cleaners with paper filters were installed.
I want to return it to the original condition.

Will the original air intake manifold from another (not Mark II) fit the
larger 1.5-inch Mark II SU's?

Was the air cleaner canister on Mark II the same as on other XPAG
engines? Will it fit?

Thank you and best regards, Steve
Steve!

The 1 1/4" air manifold and oil bath air cleaner are too small to
fit the TD Mark II. You'll have to find the original pieces -- but they're
out there! Watch eBay! I remember seeing one in New Zealand or somewhere
for just a couple hundred dollars.

John




fuelManual Choke ConversionHi John,
I would like to hear more on the subject of Manual Choke Conversion for my 1980 MGB. I have been having a bit of problems with my auto-choke and would like to see about getting a Manual put on. I live on Maui, so, of course, I don't have cold mornings starts to worry about.

I wrote you some time ago about a manual choke conversion and you set me straight and it works very well here on Maui. Now I have another question to ask you on my MGB.
Just recently, as I am driving on the very few straight-aways of an island, at between 55-60 mph, my car begins to start cutting out and I look in my rear view mirror and see smoke coming from the exhaust. (This happens more frequently as time goes by.) I adjusted the valves and haven't seen much difference. I did a compression check and the #1 cylinder is at 155, #2 is at 145, #3 is at 60 (!) and the #4 is at 155. Can I assume that I have a bad valve? or.......what is your recommendation?

Thank you for any info you can give me.

Aloha

The problem was a cracked head on the #2 piston. (I don't understand the dip in compression on the #3.) However, I totally went throught the engine, bored and replaced the pistons and replaced the head with an aluminum head. Also found that the Zenith carb was pretty worn down and reluctantly, I replaced it with a weber. The car now has never ran so good and I'm getting around 7 miles per gallon more.
Larry!
The manual chokes are available from various merchants and come with fitting instructions. If you want to do the job "properly" then follow the instructions in my Stromberg article.

You have probably already had the cylinder head repaired. I wonder if that made the smoking better or worse? Was it just a burned valve or a hole in the piston? Let me know!

John



FuelNew CarbsHi John,

I am having problems getting my '80 MGB LE to run with a new set of daul SU HS4 carbs that I bought for it. When I try to start it, it runs for a couple seconds, then sputters and dies. The fuel pump is new, and I checked to make sure I am getting good fuel flow. The fuel filter is also new and the fuel is clean. The carbs are definately getting enough fuel, as the inside past the air piston are soaked. Could my problem still be fuel, or could it be ignition related? I have also installed new points and a new condenser. Could the firing order be wrong?

Cheers,
Dave
DAVE!

You probably discovered that it was your evaporative canister placing a vacuum on the gasoline in the float bowls. How did you solve the problem?

John
FuelReach Lower BoltJohn,

I am in the process of removing the carb from my 79
midget (manual choke) to send to you for overhaul. i
am having difficulty reaching the lower nut/bolt that
attaches to the engine. any suggestions on the best
way to approach this? your help is greatly
appreciated.

jay
Jay!

A thin wrench (1/2"), and move as much as possible out of the way to
gain access to this nut. You WILL eventually get it removed -- so what
about the refitting?

Chase the thread on the manifold stud to ensure that the NEW
5/16"-24 nut spins on without difficulty!

John



FuelCarb TuningJohn, thanks for assisting the MG enthusiasts. I have 3 MGB's, one is a beautiful 1973 dark tulip GT.

I bought the car a little over a year ago and was told that the SU carbs (and engine) were rebuilt. The engine (and carbs) run fantastic except at idle. It either idles smoothly at 1500 to 2000 rpm (too high) or drops to 1000 rpm and idles very rough and wants to stall. Can you "tune" or adjust these carbs without going through a complete rebuild?

Also, there is a gearbox noise similar to what I would call a bad "throw out bearing" when the car is in neutral and the clutch is engaged. (A bad throw out bearing is noisy when the clutch is disengaged, right??). Someone told me that it was a bad bearing in the rear of the engine. Does that sound correct?

Thanks.

Respectfully,
Mike
Mike!

Black Tulip? Not many of those. The next year they lightened the colour and called it Aconite.

Two problems, one or either of them are causing the problem. Carburetters: The spring loaded over-run valve in the throttle disc is weak and is opening too soon. Simply solder them shut.

Or, the rotary choke is causing a problem. I just answered the same problem earlier so I'm sending you that letter rather than repeat the instructions.

John
FuelFuel Starvation You have answered many questions regarding MGBs and what appears to be
fuel
starvation. I have a 69 MGB and have done a lot of what you have
suggested; new points, conderser, rotor, dist. cap., plug wires, fuel
pump,
fuel lines, etc. What is interesting in my case is that the car seems to
run fine if the rear end is either jacked up or on ramps or going up a
hill
in reverse. The problems seem to occur most frequently when going up a
hill, and to somewhat of a lesser degree on level ground. I did one other
check and that was to run the car on a level surface from a separate gas
can and it seemed to run fine. One of your replys indicated "boiling" of
gas above the gear box. Do you have any further suggestions to you
previous suggestions to others regarding fuel starvation. Also, in the
fuel tank is there any type of strainer that can get blocked that would
limit the amount of fuel or is it just completely open where the fuel is
drawn from.

Thanks - Bob
Bob!

This is an unusual problem, indeed! I think it would be best to
look at the float bowls again -- and while the lids are off, place the fuel
line into a can or bottle and turn on the key. The pump should deliver one
pint per minute (a LOT of gasoline!). If there is a supply problem, then
work backwards -- but I wonder about the pickup tube in the tank, which is
impossible to inspect.

Look in the bottom of the float bowls to ensure they are free from
silt or varnish.

Let me know what you find!

John
FuelRuns Only on Full ChokeHello John!

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

I have a 1979 MGB Roadster with approximately 124,000 miles on the original motor. I acquired the car after it had been sitting for 8 years in a garage in fairly poor condition. It is equipped with the original Stromberg carburettor (I know, I know, Webbers are cheap but they're on strike right now and I hate to pay the inflated price while availability is poor). For the driving I do the Stromberg performs adequately and there is no immediate reason to change.
The cast iron head was replaced about 3,000 miles ago with a complete, new, bolt-on head. The rings and cylinder walls appear to be very good for the miles on the motor. All emissions equipment has been removed. The timing is right on the nose, and the condition of the plugs and wires appears to be perfect and delivering a strong spark.

The car has always run well and smoothly. The head was replaced because I purchased the car in fairly poor condition and while running it for evaluation had major overheating problems due to fans that didn't work properly and a radiator that was nearly completely clogged. The head had many cracks that showed up during magnafluxing and was replaced. There are no overheating issues remaining. Oil pressure is good (60-70lbs) at speed for an original motor. The car does not appear to be burning excessive oil, and, for once, I have a british car that doesn't leak much, either!

At present, the car seems to be always starved for gas. The condition came on fairly slowly. I noticed that as I drove the car it felt like it was being held back by dragging brake shoes or a poorly adjusted emergency brake, but when I richened the mixture with the choke it broke away and ran smoothly and powerfully like it should. It starts a bit hard but idles fairly well, but when a demand is placed on the engine it shows all of the signs of a very lean mixture by hesitating, backfiring and stalling while at speed or bringing the rpms up while stopped. The only way to operate the car is at almost full choke all of the time.

The carburettor has been completely rebuilt and appears to be within reasonable spec for a carb 25 years old. The floats are good, and the needle, jet, diaphragm and all gaskets have been replaced. The water choke was replaced with a manual choke during the refurbishing three years ago. The carb has been set using the proper adjusting tool. Damper oil is properly installed.

The fuel filter is correct and new. The fuel pump is delivering 4+ lbs of fuel pressure at all loads. The fuel lines are in good condition and do not appear to be clogged. A smoke test on the motor does not reveal any obvious vacuum leaks. A clamp applied to the brake vacuum assist line causes no change in performance.

At idle I am getting between 3 and 5% CO through the exhaust as I adjust the carb, within reasonable spec. At about 35% (yikes!) it runs smoothly because it seems to be getting the fuel it needs. At idle at about 4% I am pulling about 18 inches of vacuum, but when I attempt to accelerate the motor the vacuum drops to 8 inches. Spraying starter fluid directly into the empty air cleaner casing brings the car to a smooth run at any rpm and brings the vacuum level right back to 18 inches until the fluid is burned and the motor returns to delivered fuel.

The only area I haven't gone to that offers a strong possibility is the head gasket. Even though I see nothing externally, perhaps there is a failure in one or more of the barriers between the cylinders? I was meticulous in prepping the block for the new gasket when I replaced the head but who knows? Maybe flooding the engine with extra fuel provides so much combustion that any breach is overcome?

I'm running out of things to check, and I'm almost out of hair to pull out. Before I start really tearing things apart, I thought I would ask your sage advice.Any insight is welcomed!

Thanks!

Steve
Steve!

Offhand, I'd say you were trying to run the car without the air cleaner completely fitted, as it runs very, very lean without the restrictions offered by that unit. But if that's not the problem:

Check compression -- consistent within 10%
Valve lash at 0,013" HOT
Thermostat brings car to temp in 3 minutes at 195F
Champion RN9YC (415) plugs at 0,035"
Timing: Original distributor? Fitted with an aftermarket trigger (optical or Hall's effect)? Then time at 15 BTDC at 1500 rpm, vacuum disconnected.
Aftermarket distributor; non-original distributor? Who knows? This is a CRITICAL point of the tune-up!
The condition of the mechanical and vacuum advance is very important, too.

Fuel: 1 pint of fuel per minute

Call me!

John
FuelSpring and NeedleHello john .
1. I am in the midst of rebuilding a 1974 m.G. midget and I have two things that I would like some sage words cast my way about. Question 1; After reassembling the carbs and re installing them , what should I set the heights of the needle jets for initial set up. I know that for my "B" the jets start point is dead level with the machined flat area where the slide sits at idle. Is it the same for the 1275 midget?

2. Question 2; After reassembling the front suspension that had been apart a year and a half and re fitting the drive line, the car still sits as though it has no drive line in it. I removed one of the front coils to see if the assy. was binding but it can be moved up to full bump and down again quite easily . Any suggestions?

Peter!
1. The shoulder of the needle should be flush with the machined bottom of the air piston. Ensure that the little scribed line on the barrel which holds the spring loaded needle is pointed towards the engine, towards the air vent holes in the air piston.

2. It might be that the spring has not seated at the top. The spring will seat within a couple hundred yards on your first test drive with a giant "sproing" noise! Too, the springs might be too stiff. I know there's been a terrible quality control problem with both the coil and leaf springs coming from England. Good luck!
John
FuelLeaking FuelDear John,
1. Ten years ago you did extensive work on my TD (I think the car was in your shop for several months in 1994). It has run very well since then. Thank you again for the fine work your shop did.
I have run into a problem that I have not been able to solve and wondered if you might have a suggestion for me. About a month ago I noticed that fuel was leaking from the fuel pump. It seemed to be coming from the seam between the pump body and the magnet housing. I removed the pump and inspected it. The pump fuel filter had considerable debris in it so I cleaned that. I ordered a new gasket and new filter and replaced those. I think I followed properly the instructions in the workshop manual about reassembling the pump body and magnet housing. After reassembly, the pump seems to work fine and the car runs well. However, after the car has sat for an hour or so in the garage, I notice that there is a little seapage of fuel on the bottom edge of the seam between pump body and magnet housing.
Can you give me any suggestions?

2. Thanks very much, John. It was the gasket between the intermediate housing and the diaphragm that I replaced, but I'll take a closer look at the other.

I may need to turn to Tom Ball in Akron. Have you a phone number for him?

I've also seen a listing in the Sacred Octagon for "Britsh Car Part Restoration Company." Do you have any experience with them?

Thanks very much.
Alex Ross
Alex,
1. I think you're on the right track here, and I'll bet that the surfaces are slightly warped, making a seal very difficult -- or, worse, there is a problem with the diaphragm. You know, there is that gasket between the two parts of the pump housing -- between the two aluminium pieces. There is also a gasket between the intermediate housing and the fuel pump diaphragm. Did you change both of those? You might try to dress the surfaces with some 180 grit paper on a REALLY flat surface. Tom Ball, in Akron, Ohio, offers rebuilt pumps, if you cannot get yours straightened out -- and his have an improved valving.
2. Lawrie Rhoads is a great guy -- he's been rebuilding pumps, horns, &c for years and years. I don't have Tom's number handy, but I'll bet he's in the phone book.

Hope this helps!

John

Fuel62 MGAJohn,
I hope this finds you in good health and prosperity. I have been fighting a problem with my ’62 MGA MKII. Its an original California that has never been restored and is absolutely rust free! My problem is with the fuel sending unit. I cannot get the present unit to seal properly and it constantly leaks fuel when the level is above the unit. I replaced the existing unit and was able to stop fuel leak completely but that sending unit was faulty (I took it apart and found the wire broken at the post). OK, enough history. I need a good used or NOS fuel sending unit to purchase and I have found the Moss replacements to be poor quality. If you have the ability to help me it would be greatly appreciated. I look forward to hearing from you. Cheers!



Jim!

Get your original unit rebuilt! We can do that work -- it's pretty expensive (two hours x $75/hour for about $150) but you get back a unit that WORKS, works correctly, and keeps the needle on the dash from jerking wildly. You can do it too -- but it's tricky!

Use a CORK gasket ONLY on that unit, and seal it with some Form a Gasket #2 (gooey stuff that is impervious to gasoline).

John




FuelCarb Problem in 1976 Midget I have a 1976 MG Midget with a Stromberg 150 CD Carburetor.

I am having a problem with the idle. Do you have any suggestions on how to "adjust" the carb to keep it running smooth?

Thanks for your time and energies. I love your web site.



GLENN
Glenn!

Air leaks -- that's your problem I'll bet. Find the air leaks by spraying carb cleaner (or starting fluid) between the head and manifold, manifold and carb, manifold fittings, etc while the enigne is idling. If there are leaks the engine will speed or stall -- you'll know you've found something!

On the other hand, screws the air bleed all the way down (the brass slotted screw on the RH side of the carb) and back the overrun valve all the way closed (the pyramid shaped device on the RH side of the carb in line with the throttle shaft) back that screw off until it jams.

Let me know what you find!

John

FuelLeaking Jet to Float Bowl ConnectionHi John;

A couple years ago I rebuilt the HS4 carburettors on my Spitfire 1500
engine. About a month ago I found both jets leaking where the jet screws
into the float bowl. I found that the rubberwasher had turned to mush,
probably due to fuel additives, and replace the rubber washer with viton
rubber washers. After a couple days I found again that I have gas leaking
from the connection between the float bowl and the jet. I gave the nuts a
bit more of a turn but they are still leaking. Any suggestions as to what
I may have done wrong?

Also, I am getting gas coming out of the top of the float bowl, right
around the float bowl cover, when I rev up the engine. The carurettors
were rebuilt a couple years ago with a genuine SU rebuild kit, including
replacing the float needle valves. Could it be that the float height is
not correct? These are non-adjustable plastic floats.

Thanks in advance for your time and your comments.

Sincerely,

Mark

Mark!

Some of these rubber parts fail prematurely. I do not know enough
about rubber products to tell you which ones are best. I've always gone to
Viton when there was a question. It is nigh impossible to change those in
place, at least on MGs. Stacked, from the outside in are: the nut; the
brass washer; the O ring.

Gasoline leaking from the top of the float is a result of the needle
and seat not closing -- that could be dirt in the fuel. But, a shaking
engine will stir up the gasoline enough to cause it to splash out.

The distance between the bottom of the float bowl lid and the top of
the float should be 1/8- 3/16".

Hope some of this helps.

John

Fuel1980 MGB fuel cut off valve Sir, I am very much so hoping you can help me. I am having a problem with a 1980 MGB. The fuel cut off valve (between the fuel filter and carb.) is leaking all over the place. I am thinking this is more of a safety hazard than a safety feature. I cannot find this part at VICTORIA BRITISH, nor at MOSS MOTORS. I was wondering if you could help me to find this part, or inform me on the safety of bypassing it.

Any advice you can give would definitely be appreciated.
Thank you,

Lee
Lee!

This "rollover" valve is designed to block the flow of fuel should the car turn upside down with a driver incapacitated or unable to switch off the ignition. It seemed like a good idea at the time -- but since they ALL leak, it really isn't much of a safety device!

You have two options: The easiest is to simply plumb through it. I remove them altogether -- three Phillips screws at the base. The other option is to drill through the device, push through a length of 5/16" steel line, and connect the hoses as though it was a working unit (you would do this ONLY if you wanted an "original" look to your firewall.). You can find these valves on eBay, but let me tell you that ALL of them leak -- so what's the point in purchasing another faulty unit.

The other danger, under the bonnet of your 1980 MGB is the unfused circuit to the TCSA switch and/or the overdrive circuit. While unrelated to the fuel danger above, this one, when the wire shorts (and it will short someday!), it burns the wiring loom from the ignition switch, across the back of the dash, and down to the gearbox. A very horrid, very expensive repair -- and COMPLETELY avoidable! If you have overdrive, then fuse the circuit. If you do not have overdrive, then simply disconnect the circuit.

This wire is WHITE or WHITE/BROWN and is within the gearbox loom or separate (depending on the year). It connects to the junction of the main loom and rear loom, right there at the rear of the right front inner fender. It is plugged into the WHITE wires (one comes from the impact switch, one goes to the fuel pump, and this one I'm discussing goes to the gearbox). Simply pull this wire from the four-way Lucas female connector and tie it back with a wire tie. If you haven't already, then move the vacuum from the manifold directly to the distributor -- rather than using the TCSA valve on the brake master cylinder box.

Hope this is all helpful!

John
FuelNecessity is the mother of invention.Hi John,

First off, just wanted you to know that your technical book has already paid for itself by keeping me from making a mistake with the distributor on my mgb. It really is a good manual -- thanks for putting it together.

I've got a couple of quick questions. My MGB-GT is basically a 1974, but the previous owner kludged it together. As a result, not everything was there when I bought it, and somethings just don't match up with any picture, manual, etc. So, here's a couple of real dummy questions that would be easy to answer if I had another MG to look at.

Question #1: Each of the SU carbs has a vacuum port connection near the throttle plate. The previous owner connected the distributor vacuum line to the port on the rear carb and plugged the port on the front carb. I'm not sure this is correct. I would guess that both ports should be plugged and that the vacuum line should be routed to the intake manifold itself. Your thoughts??

Question #2: The overflow outlet on fuel bowls on both carbs weren't connected to anything when I got the car. From the pictures/drawings I've seen, it looks like the car came from the factory with lines running downward from the overflow outlet. Unfortunately, none of the drawings show where they go. Do they just run downward so that any overflow drops to the ground, or do they really go somewhere?

Thanks in advance for your help. You are very gracious in offering this service.

--Mark

PS: Funny fix - I didn't want to spend $19.95 for the rubber gasket that holds the heater tubes to the heater box, so I went to home depot thinking, "Surely, there is something here that will cost less that I can use". I wound up buying a pack of scouring pads -- the green ones that are about 5/16 inch thick. I cut 5 of them to size, cut out the two holes for the heater pipes, and pasted them to the heater in a stack by using the left over window trim adhesive I had. Then, I coated them all with the adhesive, let it set and wound up with a perfect gasket for less than $3.00.

Then I got thinking about heater tubes (missing from the car when purchased). Back to Home Depot where I purchased a $1.97 P-trap extension in the plumbing section, which was cut in half. It fits the heater box perfectly and is the perfect complement to the scouring pad gasket.

Next step -- adapting the flexible hose from my wife's portable vacuum cleaner (when she's not looking) to go between the heater tubes and the demisters.

Mark!

Necessity is the mother of invention. You should write to Home Depot -- they might use your experience in an ad!! Then we'd get some free advertising for our MGs!

In 1974 the engine design was heavily influenced by emission control concerns. The distributor should be a 20 degree advance (on a limiting finger on the mechanical advance, deep inside the unit). If so, then the timing should be set at 15 BTDC at 1500 vacuum disconnected. Once timed, the vacuum should be connected to the intake manifold. If, on the other hand, the distributor is an earlier variety (about a 10 degree advance), then the timing should be about 20 degrees at idle, vacuum disconnected, and then connected to a tit on the carb (usually the rear carb). With any distributor, the maximum advance cannot exceed 32 degrees at 4000, vacuum disconnected.

The 1974 came equipped with a charcoal canister to provide Evaporative Loss Control (ELC) to the gas tank and the carb float bowls. If that's gone, then simply allow the vents from the float bowls to dump down the side of the engine.

Call if you have more questions!

John



FuelMidget Zenith Carb LeakingHello John,

I have a 75 MG that is leaking fuel into the air cleaner box. I have heard these carbs are problematic.

Thanks!

Richard

Richard!

There are two reasons the air cleaner is filling with gasoline: the needle and seat in the carb float bowl is stuck open; or, the vent line from the carb to the charcoal canister is plugged.

Try this first: Remove the vent line from the carb to the charcoal canister from the carb. Have you associate spin the car over. Does gasoline pour from the brass vent pipe? If it does, then the carb has to come off and the float bowl has to come off and the needle and seat has to be changed.

But, if by removing this line the car now runs well, then blow out the lines and clean out the charcoal canister.



John
FuelFuel SmellHi John,

My trip back to Toronto was great, 75-80 mph and rain all the way. All went well until I blew off the resonator 2 hours out of Toronto. I removed it and stowed the resonator in the trunk, it seems the unit bottomed out on something, as there was a deep scrape on the bottom. That must have cracked the weld, and then it was just a matter of time.

There is one condition with the car that I forgot to mention when at the seminar and one which excists from time to time, perhaps you can shed some light on it.
There is a raw fuel smell that I can only detect from the drivers seat following hard accleration. The fuel tank dosen't leak and there is no fuel leak from the carb or any fuel lines. In an attempt to diagnose the problem I have run the float bowl overflow line into a plastic bottle to catch overflow fuel and in the hope that the problem is due to a float related issue. The odor is not as bad but it is still there. Any thoughts?
Tomorrow the car is going in for a leak down test as the "new" engine is using copious amounts of oil.

Anyway, so goes the supercharger saga.
Cheers,

Jon
Jon!

The fuel smell is either from the tank or from the carb. If it's the tank, then there is a problem (crack or tear) in an evap hose from the tank to the canister mounted on the RH inner fender.

If it's the carb -- well -- install a new or second fuel filter to get the particulates from the fuel. You could change the needle and seat on that HIF carb using the Viton tipped style instead of the steel tip (but I really don't know which style is in there now.).

BTW! Make CERTAIN that you double check the three bolts holding the idler pulley plate. These have cracked in numerous blower applications.



John
FuelDowndraft WeberJohn,

I have a question I hope you can answer. Or direct my attention to your website.

The 1980 MGB I bought had the Stromberg carb replaced with a Weber downdraft. It seems that my fuel consumption is high and my exhaust is a bit gassy smelling. I get about 14 MPG. Isn’t that a bit low?

Can you suggest if it is low what I might do?

Thanks in advance.

Eric
Eric!

Most carb problems are really ignition problems. Try this:

Time your MGB at 32 BTDC at about 4500 rpm, vacuum disconnected. Then, ensure that the vacuum is attached to the MANIFOLD vacuum port (highest on deceleration and idle).

Do you have the 32/36 progressive, the 32/36, or the way too large 36/36?

John
FuelVentingJohn,

I recently cleaned the HIF4 carbs and replaced the floats and needle and seats because I had flooding issues after changing the fuel filter and allowing some crud from the old rubber fuel lines to contaminate the float system. I cursed the HIFs because I had to remove them but now think they're a pretty smart carburetor. The fuel lines are all new, as are all the intake gaskets, shaft seals etc. There are no vacuum or air leaks.

I'm careful to do one change at a time to prevent muddling things up.

The car is a very clean no-winters car that had two mature owners before me and was very well maintained by professional mechanics. I'm the first owner to work on it but I have a long background in auto mechanics.

After making sure the carbs were working properly and carefully adjusted, I set out last weekend to remove the air pump and such. I plugged the air rail holes, plugged the small line that went to the gulp valve (3/16"-1/4") and plugged the angled 5/8" T for the gulp valve in the middle of the intake manifold. I left the small hose that runs to the other side by the canister to (the anti-run-on valve?) I think that's what it is with the two wires on top sitting right in front of the canister.

The car runs great! No flat spots, pulls at all rpm ranges much better than a car with 125K on it should. (head has 20K) I'm sure when I freshen-up the motor next year or the following, I'll have a bit more power but it runs fine. I have 2-1/2" K&Ns with APT CNC'd stub stacks and a stock-size Falcon stainless steel exhaust. I'm running what I think are original size needles in un-worn jets. I don't feel the need to go up to the next needle size but I'm not sure about that. I don't know if I'm missing any additional power due to carb leaning. It feels OK and I have a very smooth idle.

What I'm really not sure about and why I'm emailing you is did I do a complete and accurate de-smogging on this car? Like I said I still have the vacuum hose from the manifold to the run-on valve. (The vacuum advance line is of course still functioning as well, and the car has a Crane electronic ignition.) Also, would it be wise to plug off the carb vacuums for the side crankcase vent and run the vent instead to the 5/8" L fitting on the manifold? Should there be a PCV valve somewhere in the system? What if I switch to an aluminum valve cover? Should it be vented or not? I see that Victoria British has these that vent but all others use a venting cap. My car still has the stock steel cover with the rear vent connected to the canister.

I look forward to receiving your insight and suggestions about my particular set-up on my MGB.

Dan
Dan!

I read through your email and am pretty sure you've done it correctly.

We use 7/16-20 socket set screws in the cylinder head so that it looks attractive. We use a 1/4 NPT socket screw in the intake manifold to look good and to ensure there are no leaks. We remove the gulp valve and replace the fitting with both copper washers. BUT -- leave everything else the same!

Check your timing at 32 BTDC at 4500 rpm vacuum disconnected. If you want to change needles, use the ABD needles -- I've found them the best.

If you want to aluminium valve cover, use a 1/4" pipe nipple for ventilation, but RESTRICT the opening to 5/64 (look at your existing valve cover).

I do think you're home free!

John
FuelCarb OverflowJohn, thanks again for supporting the hobby. I have 1973 MGB GT (Black Tulip) that I took out of storage yesterday. It always goes into storage with a full tank and plenty of Stabil. It started up fine and I let it run for 20 minutes before I took it out on the road. As I pulled on the highway, I noticed that under medium or hard throttle, it would bog down, but under light throttle it was OK. About three miles into my ride, it died and would not restart. I called a tow truck and waited. 30 minutes later, it started but only ran about 100 feet before dying again. Had it towed back home (northern Michigan). I've had the car for 3 or 4 years. I replaced the fuel filter when I bought it. The fuel pump "looks" reasonably new, recognizing that doesn't mean much. Am I on the right track?
Thanks John.
John!

First, don't let the car warm up like that again. Simply start it and drive it -- just like a real car.

My guess is that the carbs are overflowing. Disconnect the line that runs from the front of the front carb, through a steel line, to the back of the back carb, and then to the charcoal adsorption canister. Disconnect the line at each carb. Turn on the key. Does fuel pour from either air vent on the carb?

Next, disconnect the fuel line from the carb. Place it into a can or bottle. Turn on the key. The pump should deliver one pint per minute.

Then, give me a call at tech time!

John
FuelPCV SystemHi John and cheers from Canada.

I don't have a local MG specialist close to me and hope you can answer a question. On my 74 1/2 MGB the crankcase breather pipe that normally goes to the carbs (HIF) has been disconnected and vented to the air, presumably to keep oil etc. out of the carbs. However the breather pipe that connects the carbs is now open to the air and is sucking air (ie. the crankcase hose has simply been disconnected from the Y fitting.) The car seems to be running OK. Should the open connection connecting the carbs be closed up. I could simply reconnect the crankcase hose but could oil be a problem? Or could I leave the crankcase hose as it is and block the opening in the connection between the carbs? Or just leave things as they are? I am wondering if any of this is a potential problem. The plugs look OK (Does the breather hose enter the carbs on the air side or engine side of the butterfly valve. If the latter could this cause a problem with the valves or maybe this is compensated for by excessively rich adjustment at the carbs? Anyway hope you can enlighten me. Thanks and cheers.

Gord
Gord!

It is important to have the PCV system connect up correctly. This system keeps the inside of the engine clean of water vapors and harmful, acidic blowby.

The system is simple: Fresh air enters the black tube hanging from the anti run-on valve. It passes through the valve and into the bottom of the charcoal adsorption canister. It passes through the charcoal, purging the gasoline fumes from the charcoal, then into the engine. From the engine, the air is pulled through the oil separator on the side of the front tappet inspection cover, and then into the carbs, where it is combusted.

The gasoline tank is connected to this system. As the fuel expands, the air/fuel mixture on top of the gasoline is vented through the canister, trapping the unburned hydrocarbons. Then, when gasoline is pulled from the tank by the pump, the air drawn into the tank must pass through the charcoal canister. Prior to 1970 the tanks were vented directly to the atmosphere.

The carbs are connected to this system, too. The float bowls need atmospheric pressure on top of the gasoline to push the fuel into the jet. But, when the car is turned off and the underbonnet temperatures increase, the fuel in the carbs expands and pushes air/fuel mixture out -- that is also trapped by the canister.

The anti run-on valve is also designed to keep air/fuel mixtures from entering the atmosphere by shutting the engine down positively. When the valve operates, it closes the fresh air vent and the draft created at the carbs pulls the air out of the charcoal canister. This places a vacuum on top of the gasoline in the float bowls which may kill the engine. But, just to make certain the shut-off is really positive, manifold vacuum is connected to the charcoal canister (at the anti run-on valve) which REALLY creates a vacuum in the float bowls and the engine shuts off NOW!

I would reconnect your PCV system and re-adjust the carbs (which are probably enrichened too much right now).

John
FuelFuel Filter1ST. I PURCHASED A NEW FUEL FILTER THIS DAY 7/05/06 NO INSTRUCTIONS CAME ON HOW TO PROPERLY INSTALL IT. ON THE ONE END THERE IS THE WORD "IN" NO ARROWS JUST THE WORD "IN." NOW DOES THAT MEAN THAT END GETS CONNECTED TO THE FUEL LINE THAT GOES TO THE GAS TANK OR THE LINE GOING TO THE CARBURATOR? 2ND. AFTER I INSTALLED THE NEW FUEL FILTER I ASLO INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY, WHEN I STARTED IT UP IT WAS IDLELING PRETTY ROUGH FOR A FEW MINUTES THEN STALLED OUT. I TOOK THE COVER OFF MY SINGLE CARBURATOR AND SPRAYED SOME CLEANER IN THE CHAMBER, MOUNTED THE THE COVER BACK ON IT AND IT HASN'T STARTED BACK UP SINCE, IT WANTS TO BUT IT WON'T STAY RUNNING. IT SOUNDS LIKE IT IS BEING CHOKED, WHAT IS WRONG? THANK YOU!

GINO
Gino!

The fuel filter should be connected so that the gasoline comes up the pipe, IN the filter, and out to the carb.

The rotational alignment of the piston and the rubber diaphragm is critical. Take the top of the carb back off, look at the edge of the diaphragm -- you'll see a little nub -- that goes at 9:00 (as you're facing the carb).

Change the plugs (use Champion RN9YC - #415) and it'll start right back up. It's NEVER a good idea to leave the car idling for any length of time.

Hope this little bit helps.

John
FuelDashpot OilWould you please advise me as to the best fluid to use in the dashpots? I hear everything from 20w oil to marvel oil.
Please advise.
Thanks, Randy

Randy!

Besides what you've found, I've seen 3 in 1 oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, and antifreeze!

I have been using 90 weight gear oil. Actually, it's 80/90 hypoid gear oil. WHAT? AM I NUTS? Follow me through on this.

The mixture must richen at acceleration. It is the resistance to movement that keeps the venturi small and effects the enrichening. Even the newest original SU is 32 years old. The brass damper piston has been running against the inside of the steel dashpot tube all this time -- some wear has occurred. The heavier oil accounts for that wear. What about the "new" SU carbs? The ones I've seen have a mismatch between the OD of the brass piston and the ID of the dashpot -- hence the necessity of heavier oil.

Try it out!

John
FuelAdjusting the MixtureJohn,
I have a 1977 MGB. I recently replaced the o-ring on the needle holder in the piston. It wasn't holding oil. My question is on adjusting with the moss tool. Should the carb vent hose be connected? Also, do you screw the course idle nut and the brass fine idle screw all the way closed when adjusting the needle or lifting the piston (air cleaner on) to check for lean or richness? I have the Damn ZS Carb article that you sent me, but it doesn't say where to position the idle nut and screw. Thanks for your help,
Don
Don,

I always close down the air bleed -- that's the coarse and fine adjustment on the right side (facing the carb) of the carb. That adjustment is used to meet idle emission specs, and since there are no emission specs to meet in all but a handful of counties, the bleed has no use.

Start with the needle a bit rich -- screw the adjuster tool all the way clockwise and then back it off a turn. As the engine warms up, continually rev it to keep it from fouling the plugs. Once the auto choke has come completely off, then lift the piston to make the final adjustments. Oh, yes, absolutely have the vent tube from the from tappet inspection cover attached to the right rear of the carb!

Push a small screwdriver down the throat of the carb, under the piston, then turn the shank so that the blade lifts the air piston. As you begin to lift the piston, judge the change in rpm. If the engine revs higher and higher the farther you lift the piston, then the adjustment is too RICH -- turn the tool anti-clockwise to lean it out. If the engine stumbles and falls as you barely begin to lift the piston, then the adjustment is too LEAN -- turn the tool clockwise to enrichen it. The "perfect" position allows the engine to continue to run at the same rpm or just barely, incrementally, allows the rpm to rise just as you lift the piston 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch.

Remember that the car WILL NOT RUN without the air cleaner -- so any high speed idle testing, any road testing, MUST be with the original, factory air cleaner.

Once you're on the road and want to test the mixture, simply unscrew the damper assy, push it to one side which will jam up the valve, and lift slightly. Listen for the resulting change in rpm.

Hope this helps!

John
FuelBest Carburetors?Dear John,
I want to replace my worn out Zenith-Stromberg for a downdraft Weber 2 bbl. ( cost with intake manifold & electric choke is less than $ 600. Do I need to replace the stock exhaust manifold for a pre- 1975 one? If so where can I find one? Moss & Victoria do not stock this part.
Would I be better off to have you rebuild the Z-S carb???
Thanks,
TOM
Tom,

A rebuilt Stromberg will cost you $300-$400 -- much less than the Weber -- PLUS, it will perform well at low speed. Another option is to fit twin HS4 or HIF4 SU carburetters. The rebuilt Stromberg is certainly the way to go. We do rebuild the Strombergs, but isn't the prospect of your business that I'm giving you this advice -- the more original you can stay, the nicer the car remains.

John
FuelChoke ConversionJohn,
Has anyone ever converted the water choke over to an electric choke? The wire that goes to the induction heater under the carb could be used to activate the electric choke. Just a thought if a guy could find a choke cap the right size.
Don

Don,

The chokes on the Weber carbs look about the right size, and could, I suppose,
be fitted with some work. But remember that the electric chokes work as a function of time; the water chokes work as a function of engine temperature -- and it is this latter engineering which makes them superior to the electric units.

John
FuelFuel Gauge TroubleshootingJohn

Can you tell me what the voltage reading to ground would be coming off the voltage stabilizer to the fuel gage? I am trouble shooting a fuel gauge that suddenly quit working.

Thanks
Don
Don,

The most common fault with the fuel gauge is the sending unit. Either the float is saturated and has sunk - or - the resistance wiring has fractured. If your electric temp gauge continues to work then the sending unit is most certainly the problem.

The voltage stabilizer does not provide a constant source of voltage but acts like a turn signal. You can watch it work by taking your 12v test light, grounding one end, and connecting the other end to the GREEN/BLUE wire that attaches to the temp sending unit. Turn the key ON, the test light will glow - and after about 20 seconds will begin a slow pulsing - ON OFF ON OFF. The stabilizer gives bursts of battery voltage. The higher the voltage in the circuit (close to 14) the fewer the bursts, the lower the voltage (close to 12), the more frequent the bursts. Hence a "stabilization" of voltage over time.

The new stabilizers are flawed, the last I knew. Moss had pulled them from inventory, although other firms continue to sell them. I'm sure something will be on the market soon. Of course, as with any other device on the MG, you can open the stabilizer, clean the points, and adjust the tension on the bi-metal strip.

Hope this helps!

John
FuelStallingJohn,
I haven't written before, but I ran into a sudden stalling condition that I thought would be helpful to your readers. Perhaps you already know about it though.

Problem:
1. The engine stops dead. No indication anything is wrong.
2. Analysis: No fuel at filter input in engine compartment. Pump runs constantly, but doesn't sound normal. Air pulsations present at fuel line removed from filter in engine compartment. Suspect fuel pump does work and lack of fuel is some other problem.
3. Prepare to remove fuel pump to determine cause for fuel blockage.
4. In process of removing fuel lines, discovered input fuel fitting is very loose.
5. Tighten fitting while pump is still in the car and replace fuel line.
6. Engine starts & runs fine.

Both input and output fittings are of right angle design rather than in-line as they should be. The right angle design puts a rotational load on the fitting's screw thread when the line is connected. With normal vibration, and over time, the fitting can loosen and the pump sucks air.
This repair can be made in a few minutes at no cost if you are aware of the condition. I chose to replace all the fuel lines under the car, so it took a little while longer.

I hope this may also solve a hot idle condition that has eluded me for some time:
When the ambient temperature is extremely hot and the car has been driven for some time in slow city traffic, the idle speed drops to about 200 RPM and it runs very rough. If the engine dies or is shut off, dieseling occurs. Normal idle is restored when engine temperature is lowered, usually by driving at faster speeds. The engine does not appear to be overheated. Temperature gauge is in normal zone, no smells, fans cycle normally. Any comments?

Best regards,
Wes
Wes,


The fuel pump would rather try to move air than fuel. Any leak results in the pump chattering and blowing bubbles!

Your engine sounds like it's too rich. You can lean it out easily with the Stromberg tool. Do you still have an airpump fitted (Cook County?). They always run better without the smog pump. However, the dieseling is caused by a leak in the evaporative loss control system. Check all the hoses.

Call if you're still having some difficulties.

John
FuelCarburetor SeatJOHN

MOSS AND ALL INFORMATION I HAVE SHOW A GASKET UNDER THE SEAT ON HIF4 CARBURATORS. MINE DIDNT HAVE ANY AND THE GASKET KIT FOR AUF550 CARB DIDNT HAVE THEM.

DO I NEED THEM???

GIL
Gil,

Tightened firmly against the aluminium body, the needle and seats do not need washers for sealing. Sometimes, if the float height and needle and seat assembly are at grossly different positions, then the washers can assist with float height adjustment.

Remember that on the HIF the center of the scoop of the float should be level with the bottom of the carb before the spring collapses in the needle and seat.

Hope this helps!

John
FuelFuel PumpHey John, I haven't presented any problems lately but I now have one. Recently I had a fuel pump failure in my 80 MGB. Not the kind that a bang on the pump would reactivate but gas in the trunk. Don't know why me and the car aren't in orbit. Somehow, I guess, the diaphragm failed and allowed gas to flow in that direction but no one in this area has seen that before. Have you? Any guesses what may have happened? Any blockages anywhere?


Thanks Bob
Bob,

Gasoline on the trunk floor is a very unusual problem. You know, the fuel pump is vented -- the black plastic cap vents, through a hose, into the frame of the car; the base of the solenoid is vented, through a hose, into the trunk. The one side of the fuel diaphragm moves fuel, the other has be ventilated. There is a one way valve in the plastic cap so that, in theory, the air moves from the trunk, where it's dry, through the pump, and into the frame. If the diaphragm perforates, then fuel can make its escape -- through both of those tubes. I think I've only seen this several times before (in the last 30+ years!). So, again, it's very unusual, but not unheard of!

John
FuelSU Carb BalancingJohn I talked with you on 9/5/07 and had to cut short our talk. I told you that my 74 MGB can not keep it's balance and after a high rev the balance ball in the front SU drops to the bottom of my balance tool. that the idle mixture is leaned out all the way in both carbs. If I get it running somewhat smooth, then take it down the road the RPM goes high (around 2500 and climbing) and stays high. As if the throttle was stuck. I can not keep a balance, nor idle rpm's, or even the idle mixture set right. (It's running rich) This is what I have done trying to correct the problem:

1. rebuilt the head
2. set the valve clearance
3. timed the engine
4. new plugs and points plus gapping
5. Checked for vacuum leaks around intake manifold and all vacuum lines with both propane and oil
6. cleaned the SU with mineral spirits, and soap /water
7. blew out all passageways
8. replaced all gaskets and O rings
9. re bushed the throttle
10. replaced the throttle shaft (old throttle shaft and bushings were bad)
11. soldered the spring shut on throttle plates
12 made sure throttle plate closed correctly
13. Checked and made sure no throttle linkage was binding
14. made sure float was not leaking and set a correct level

Outside of the starter valve what else do you think might be causing my problem?

John

John,

Make sure your timing is set correctly. There are three methods: static timing -- set the points to open at about 4 degrees AFTER top dead center (your distributor has an 18 degree cam (36 crank degrees); idle timing -- set it at 15 degrees BTDC at 1500, vacuum disconnected; maximum timing -- set it at 32 degrees BTDC at about 4500 rpm, vacuum disconnected. The last method is the best. But this DOES NOT explain the problems you're having with the idle.

The only reason the car runs at one speed or another is from the amount of air/fuel mixture entering the cylinders. Timing, mixture adjustment, valve adjustment, coil wires..... these all do not figure into this at all. So, your erratic idle must have to do with mechanical interference (not enough end float on your interconnecting linkages), or some sort of air leak, either at the throttle disc (a problem with your soldering or disc alignment), or with a vacuum leak between the carbs and manifold.

We use spray carburetter cleaner between the head and manifold, manifold and heat shield, heat shield and spacer blocks, spacer blocks and carbs to find air leaks. We also train the carb cleaner spray at the ends of the shafts on the carbs and around the fittings on the manifold.

Something in the above is your problem. Look again and give me a call during technical hour!

John
FuelMounting SU Carbs on an MGBHi John,
I have a quick question for you concerning my 1969 MGB.
Can the SU fuel pump be mounted up front on the firewall the same as a MGTD. I realize that some pumps push better than they pull.
Thanks and regards,
Van
Van,

The pump can be mounted there and will work, but it is designed to push more than pull, so it's better to mount it in the proper location.

Hope this helps.

John
FuelSU Pumps vs. Aftermarket Electric PumpsJohn,
Love your tube movies.
My question is about the SU fuel pumps in B's. Personally haven't had a problem (yet), but I met quite a number of B fans that have a spare SU pump in the trunk or replaced it with electronic versions. What's your experience with the reliability of SU fuel pumps ? What can you do to maintain them properly ?
What are common faults ?
And it should tick, right ?

Keep those movies comming,

Ruud
Ruud!

My own experience with the SU pumps has been great. It is, however,
an electric device and they do have a failure rate. My suggestion would be
to purchase an extra pump and carry it with you (along with new AUC 2141
washers (x4)). Keep that new pump DRY or the points will corrode.

What about the "new" and "improved" Hall's effect pumps that don't
use points? They are a little more expensive but are supposed to be better.
I've only every seen two, and one of those had failed.

I am not a fan of aftermarket pumps -- they are either rattling all
the time or produce too much pressure or something.

Good luck!

John
FuelDifferent Carb/Worse Gas Mil I ordered the MGB Single Sidedraft MCHH Weber Carb Conversion from
Weber.com, I believe it is model 45 and replaced my Stromberg carburetor.
The choke cable seemed too short to go through the elbow and attach to the
choke cylinder. I shortened the elbow and the choke and the carburetor
seemed to work fine and gives a lot more pep to the engine. However my gas
mileage has gone from 28 mpg to 15mpg. Is there something I can do to
adjust the carburetor to get back better gas mileage? Or is the choke
staying on because the cylinder is not seating down into the choke
chamber?


Best Regards,
Randy
Randy,

The 45 DCOE single side draught Weber carburetter is designed for
high speed use. It usually doesn't work too well at low speeds, and usually
not from stop to 5mph -- but above that it can really make the MGB fast.
This is not without a cost -- and that is the mileage. But remember, fast
accelerations burn up lots of gas and your foot on the throttle is one of
the major causes of low mileage.

Please remember that the 175 CD Stromberg carb is not a faulty carb,
it is simply misunderstood my most and therefore blamed for lots of
problems. A complete Stromberg rebuild is in the neighborhood of $350 to
$400 and that, I'm sure, is far less than you spent on the Weber.

You might try to run your choke cable through the firewall in a
different location, or you might try to find a longer choke cable to solve
this choke problem.

Good luck.

John
FuelDashpot OilJohn,

Dashpot oil is straight 20w ok,, I had my carbs rebuilt and it looks like they put trans (red) fluid in them...


Peter
Peter,

We use 90 weight gear oil now -- it's much better for a rich acceleration!

John
FuelEthanol in GasolineDear John:
I am a long time owner of many MGBs and my current one is a '65 tourer. Over the years I have had its engine, transmission, and other bits and pieces rebuilt. I do most of the "easy" work myself like changing the thermostat from winter to summer, etc., but rely upon a terrific local shop, Motorhead, ltd. to take care of the "hard" stuff.

I'm writing to seek your advice on the affects of ethanol in gasoline on MGBs. As I'm sure you are aware, parts of the country have started using the 10% ethanol mixture in the local gasoline. I've been reading on the web some disconcerting comments about how the ethanol mixture will be a problem for older cars that have carburetors, rubber seals, and hoses.

I've read both sides of the discussions, am totally confused, and would like your take on the situation. I usually add an octane boostser and dry gas once or twice a year to my fuel. My present MGB isn't my daily driver but I use it quite regularly on clear, dry days, year-around, so the fuel is "changed" on a consistent basis.

What do you think?

Thanks for your wonderful web site and for just being there!
Sincerely,

Kevin
Kevin,

Of course, ethanol does not contain the same number of BTU's, gallon for gallon, as does "real" gasoline. But so far the only problem that we've encounted with our MGs is the gross expansion of rubber gaskets. Fortunately, there are not many of these within the fuel system. There are some rubber gaskets inside the fuel pump, but they've not been a problem at all. The rubber O ring that seals the sending unit against the tank on the MGB has not been a problem. The only snags we've hit are with the aftermarket rubber sending unit gaskets for the T type, MGA, and early MGB.

So, as far as it goes right now, we've seen no downside (except mileage) to the addition of ethanol to the gasoline.



John
FuelGas LeakHi John



I have a 1956 MGA. I noticed in the last couple of days a leak from the fuel tank. It appears to be leaking from a device on the passenger side of the tank. It has recently got cold here but the garage is always above freezing. The previous owner had a new fuel tank installed. Is it possible the colder temperatures have caused a seal to break? Is the device on the passenger side of the tank the fuel level equipment. Any suggestions as to what the most common causes of the leak could be.



Best regards

Jeff
Jeff,

The unit on the RH side of the tank is the fuel sending unit.

It could be that the cold weather has exposed a poorly fitted unit; it could be that the unit was fitted with a rubber gasket which will leak under all but perfect conditions; it could be that you've added some gasoline which has either 1) filled the tank higher than what it was, hence exposing a leak which was always there; or 2) you have alcohol in your gasoline which can make that rubber gasket fail.

In any case, drain the tank (the fitting on the bottom), or siphon it out. Then, remove the sending unit and give me a call and we can decide what the problem was and how it can be repaired.

Hope this helps.

John
FuelBoiling GasolineIf you could please answer a question. I have a 1980 MGB. it has a zenith -stromberg manual choke. starts and runs great.
I tried a small air cleaner a while back but soon found out it needed the original type as it must have the proper restictions i guess. Runs great again.

Since i have messed with the mixture and air i still have it run good but sometimes upon stopping the engine for a short time, i get what seems to be vapor lock. Cranks but wont start. If i unscrew the damper , where the oil goes into the carb , i notice the cranking is a little faster and she will start. I screw the damper back in and drive away as normal. Doesn`t do this all the time but quite a lot. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It's not vapor lock really, but it is a problem associated with the boiling of the gasoline. Lifting the air piston leans the mixture and that's why you can start the car much more easily while doing this. Here are some things that may help: Ensure that the choke is working well -- as it moves to full choke when the car is shut off; ensure that the air diaphragm is not oversized (from carb cleaner) and is supple (it can get brittle if the carb backfires and it heats up). You can also ease starting by holding your foot to the floor (hence the throttle wide open) while cranking -- this will lean the mixture more than leaving your foot off the throttle. There is not much you can do about the underbonnet temperature -- but make sure both your cooling fans are working. Hope this little bit helps.
FuelAnti Run On Valve I recently attended your road show at John Mangles garage in St Louis and
was inspired to take better care of the basics on my 74 B.

The B was running fine when I drove to my friends house to have him help
me
install a Pertronix electronic ignition. When then decided to take the
distributor completely out and really give it a good cleaning. In the
process of removing the distributor we accidentally broke off the nipple
connection to the anti run-on valve. To be honest I am not certain the
electrical connections to the top of the anti-run on valve were connected
for many years so I was not too concerned that we had lost the nipple.
My
friend felt bad about breaking off the plastic nipple and he decided to
at
least correct the rather loose wires at the top. During this process of
getting good electrical connection he noted that the switch (noted in the
photograph at about 2:00) got extremely HOT so much so that he
disconnected
power to the switch (also in the photo).

My questions, which I am willing to call in if your would prefer, are:

1. What could be causing the valve switch to get so hot?

2. The anti run on valve is about $90.00 from Moss. Is this something
that
is really needed or just part of the 70s attempt to satisfy emissions
standards ? As I mentioned I really think the electrical connections were
not good before my recent activity.

3 The B now runs very rough, and is sluggish with frequent backfire
through
the carbs. Is this most likely a result form the Pertronix install, the
lack of connection to the Anti-run on valve, or possibly all or none with
other causes?

3.4 My next steps will be to isolate any vacuum leaks and the re-balance
the
carbs. Does the install of the Pertronix mandate a re-balance of the
carbs
in and of itself ? Do I need to wait until after I receive and install
the
new anti run-on equipment before doing the carb balance?
The anti run on valve wiring is HOT only when the key is OFF --
unless the two in-line fuses beneath the fusebox have been connected
crisr-cross (slate with brown / brown with slate). The switch is grounded
ONLY when you have oil pressure -- unless the oil pressure switch is the
normally closed type (as used on oil pressure lights).

Set your timing at 32 BTDC maximum with the vacuum disconnected.

The anti run-on valve is not critical -- sometimes you can make a
fix by heating a 3/16" section of copper tube (or 1/8") and pushing it
into
the hole that was once the nipple. Allow it to cool. Then replace the
hose. connected or not it will not cause the car to run poorly.
FuelLeaking Fuel PumpHey John, I haven't presented any problems lately but I now have one. Recently I had a fuel pump failure in my 80 MGB. Not the kind that a bang on the pump would reactivate but gas in the trunk. Don't know why me and the car aren't in orbit. Somehow, I guess, the diaphragm failed and allowed gas to flow in that direction but no one in this area has seen that before. Have you? Any guesses what may have happened? Any blockages anywhere? Gasoline on the trunk floor is a very unusual problem. You know, the fuel pump is vented -- the black plastic cap vents, through a hose, into the frame of the car; the base of the solenoid is vented, through a hose, into the trunk. The one side of the fuel diaphragm moves fuel, the other has be ventilated. There is a one way valve in the plastic cap so that, in theory, the air moves from the trunk, where it's dry, through the pump, and into the frame. If the diaphragm perforates, then fuel can make its escape -- through both of those tubes. I think I've only seen this several times before (in the last 30+ years!). So, again, it's very unusual, but not unheard of!
FuelInconsistant Fuel Pump Working on a 1958 MGA I discovered it's fuel pump had stopped pumping (no clicking noise). Checking the terminal connection with a test light showed power is being supplied when the key is on. Checking with a voltmeter showed 12 volts supplied. I also noticed that when the key was turned on, and again a second or two after the key was turned off, there was an audible click from the pump. I removed the pump and connected it to a 12 volt source (positive to case and negative to terminal) and the pump ran. The pump was in the vertical position at this time and it pumped out what fuel it still contained without any problem. I noticed however that when the pump ran it would occasionally pause, like something was sticking, then restart. These pauses were of various time lengths and seemingly without any pattern, nor did it matter if the pump was vertical or horizontal. Does this need an electrical rebuild and is there a kit for these pumps or is a replacement unit needed? What are the costs? This pump does not have the red tape around the motor that I've heard means a dual polarity pump but it does have the stepped cap over the points that I think indicates a high volume unit.
There are two possibilities: Faulty Points - or - blocked fuel tank.

If the tank is blocked -- if the pickup line is plugged, then the pump will not cycle but get hot. You can tell quickly if the pickup line is open -- either it siphons or not.

If the points are dirty, then the fuel pump action can be inconsistent. Easiest solution is to buy a new pump. Next solution is to follow the workshop manual step-by-step and remove the points, sand them to clean them, and refit. Where the manual calls for 2/3 of an unscrew of the diaphragm, make it a whole turn. You'll want to purchase a couple of gaskets before starting. Those long 2BA screws into the body may be frozen -- let them soak a long time as breaking one will force you to purchase a new pump.

If you are close-by, you can come around and we'll rebuild the pump in a matter of half an hour or so.

Tom Ball, Akron, Ohio, has excellent quality rebuilt pumps.
FuelEngine Bay Fuel Supply LineHere is my question: How was the fuel supply line originally routed in the engine bay on this car? (Built date: December 1973) I have a 1971 MGB where the supply line runs along the firewall, than forward along the driver side past the carburetors, through a fuel filter to the front carburetor port and from there to the rear one.



On my car, before I disassembled it, the fuel line had the fuel filter installed at the firewall (close to the exhaust manifold, the reason why I doubt that this was original), than it split through a brass Y-connector. A short hose ran to the rear carburetor port, a longer one to the front.



Is there anyplace where I could find a picture or diagram of the carburetor line routing for this car?

The fuel line runs across the back of the firewall, then along the left hand side of the left inner fender. There is a fuel filter in the line just to the rear of the small bracket on the left inner fender that hold a clip which, in turn, holds the fuel line.



The HIF carbs are fed from the front -- there's an intermediate hose between the carbs.



If you send me your FAX number, I'll send along a picture (as best as I can find) of the placement.

FuelAcceleration Flat Spot.I have a basically stock 1979 MGB. Several years ago I purchased a HS6 manifold and carb kit from Moss Motors and recently got around to installing it on my car. At the same time I installed an exhaust header (1 3/4 inch stainless with heat shield wrap), ram horns and a manual choke kit. When I started the car up an took it for test ride I got a nasty flat spot. Back to the garage. Pulled everything apart. Noticed that the lands on the manifold were slightly thinner than the lands on the exhaust manifold. Also noticed that the HS6's were a late model that also had a port for crank case vent tubes. Blocked off the vent tubes, doubled up the gasket under the carbs (all new gaskets), disconnected and blocked off the distributor vacuum line, reset the timing and installed new plugs. Got out my SU Carburetor Tuning book and went to work setting up the carbs. Checked everything. float level correct, needles centered and no't loose , jets initial setting 2 turns down after verifying jet level with carb base.

Started up and let the engine warm up thoroughly. Set the initial idle with vacuum synchronize, set mixture at idle and at 3000 rpm with color tune (no load). Flat spot gone while carb linkage is loose. As soon as everything is snugged up the flat spot is back only now its worse. Running up the jets (leaning mixture) results in backfiring. Running down the jets (richening mixture) makes the flat spot worse. Do either of you have any suggestions?
First of all, connect the front tappet inspection cover to the carb vents -- use a 90 degree hose and the plastic Y piece. Use 5/16' hose from the Y piece to the carbs and you won't need clamps (it looks better without clamps).

Connect the vacuum advance from the manifold to the carburetter. Now timing is CRITICAL -- most carb problems come from faulty timing. Set your advance at 32 BTDC at about 4000 rpm with the vacuum disconnected. That's full advance. Then, connect the vacuum and you should have a good idle.

About the mismatched manifold thicknesses. Use the original manifold washers, but solder or glue half of a 3/8 flatwasher (maybe a couple of them) to make up the difference beween 9/16 and 7/16."

Ensure that your throttle is opening fully -- have your associate sit in the car and press the throttle to the floor. Then attempt to open the carbs more. I f you can get movement, then you must reposition the throttle linkage or reposition the throttle stop screw (on the firewall).
FuelHigh IdleI have set the ignition pretty well but here is the problem. The engine rebuild included a new VP-11 APT cam, I had to overbore to .060, and a ported and polished standard late head, opening up the ports a good deal. I have needed ether to start it initially when cold so far. Once warm it runs way too fast, about 2100 rpm at idle with the choke off and throttle screws backed out full. If I lift a carb (standard HIFs) piston it dies out nearly all the way. That tells me the carbs are too lean. Looking in the throat of the carbs the jets are maybe 1/16ths or less down from the shoulder in the carb intake. If I richen the carbs, it should speed up more. I'm guessing that with the increased volume flowing through the vacuum in the intake is lifting the carb pistons too much and drawing more fuel. It seems to me that the only solution is to change needles to something that allows less fuel at idle. Is my logic wrong?
Rev the engine right up to 4000 or so and set the timing at 32 BTDC at max advance with the vacuum disconnected. By 4000 the distributor has usually opened all the way. Then let it idle down and re-connect the vacuum -- if you check it again at idle, it wouldn't be uncommon to find it at 25-40 BTDC because of the vacuum.

Get that idle DOWN -- there is either a mechanical reason the idle is too high, or there is an air leak. You can find the air leaks with spray carb cleaner -- or you can listen to the carbs to discover which one is draughting more than the other. If the engine doesn't have enough air, it will slow down and kill. Timing and mixture will not cause a fast idle.

The jets are probably close to being in the right spot -- but after you get it idling at 800-1000, then lift the pistons, just as the workshop manual suggests, and judge the change in rpm. The engine idles rich, so when you lift the piston the rpm will rise about 50, then fall off.
FuelMGB Idle Drop With Engaged ClutchI WAS HELPING A FRIEND OF MINE WITH A 1972 MGB. WE SET UP THE CARBS, THE CAR RUNS WELL BUT. WHEN HE PUTS THE CLUTCH IN THE IDLE DROPS FROM 800 DOWN TO 400 RPM. This condition is more common on the HIF carbed MGs than the HS variety. The car is not running as well as it should be and just that little extra resistance to turn slows the engine. You want to work more with the tune-up. Make sure that your timing is 32 BTDC at about 4500 rpm vacuum disconnected -- and then, after connecting the vacuum, double check to find that the timing is up around 30 BTDC or so. It is essential that the vacuum advance work to give you a really good idle.

Adjust the carbs as you would an earlier SU. Check the mixture by lifting the air piston every so slightly. This reduces the vacuum at the jet and leans out the mixture. Since the car idles rich, leaning out the mixture will cause the car to run more efficiently -- faster -- but only briefly -- then the idle falls off. If, when you lift the piston the rpm climbs and climbs, it's too rich. If, when you lift the piston the rpm falls away, it's too lean. You want the rpm to rise about 50 (barely discernable) and then fall off -- but you need to hear the rpm increase.

The power that the engine makes at idle is consumed by the resistance to turn -- and the idle speed stabilizes. The more efficiently the engine runs, the more power it makes, and the higher that equilibrium point becomes -- which is the reason you have to set the idle screws back down as you approach the highest state of tune.
FuelMidget PCV Valve Talked to you last night about the PCV valve on the '68 Midget ( I have owned the car all of 3 days, its a surprise for my wife as her first car was a '67 back in '69) and how I thought it was causing the engine to burn oil. Again, after the car has run for about 5 to10 min. alot of blue smoke comes out the exhaust. I also notice when running down the road there is less smoke and a lot more when starting up from a stop.
I have checked the PCV and have found oil inside, spring looks ok, as does the diaphragm and plunger. With the engine running and the PCV opened up, if I push down on the diaphragm with my finger (closing the valve) the vacuum keeps the diaphragm pulled in (down). If I increase the idle the vacuum pulls the diaphragm down into the valve housing. However, when I clean out the oil and put the PCV back together it takes longer for the smoke to appear. The oil filler cap (plastic) is not plugged as I can suck or blow air through it. Ug! The separator (can) is not clogged as I can also blow air back through the hose. The hoses to and from the valve are not cracked, matter of fact they look new. I have also noticed when I put my finger over the port coming from the separator there is, I think, a strong vacuum and a small amount of air pressure coming out of the hose from the separator. You did mention compression rings. Can't find what the speck is (psi).
Another option here for a temporary fix -- is to leave the hose from the separator loose -- vent it to the ground -- and to plug up the PCV valve. Then drive it and see if it continues to smoke.

Smoking at idle and taking off is a tell tale sign of bad valve guides -- I don't think this is the problem, but try disconnecting the valve. In the end, it's probably the rings. You can check for compression and you can expect to find a consistent compression + or - 10%. I have no "real" or "proper" figures, as the compression indicated is a function of the gauge, the speed of the engine, the heat of the engine, and the valve lash.
FuelCarb Throttle DisksMy carbs have over run valves, can I change them to solid disks and will I have to cut a notch on bottom for the bypass idle ?You have two options. Replace the discs and cut the very smallest slot you can - or - simple solder the existing overrun valves shut. In the second case, heat the thottle disc from the button side and flow flux and solder into the spring side. Once it's really flooded with solder and cooled, cut away the exposed spring and shaft, which certainly affect air flow.
FuelCarb HoleI have the following question regarding the subject choke assembly on a Zenith-Stromberg Carburetor CD 175 CD-2 #3766:

Q: Should the threaded hole (approx. 7/32 in. diameter) in the aluminum body that looks in on the choke lever & arm be plugged with a screw?

Note: This vehicle has been in storage since I installed the new choke assembly, which was over 3-years ago. Since I do not have the old choke assembly, I do not know what the threaded hole is for.

There is no problem leaving the hole open.
FuelStromberg Running RichI have just read your article on the University Motors website :

http://www.bmcno.org/tech%20tips/zenith%20stromberg%20tech%20tips.htm



I have just put a rebuilt rover v8 engine into my Triumph Stag. The engine has twin Zenith 175 carburetors on it. I am having difficulty with the engine running very rich. I have opened the carburetors by taking the mass with the water jacket and bimetallic spring off. Then I replaced these back on to the carburetors:



1. I lined up the notches on the mass and the body – ran reasonably well but still VERY rich
2. rotated the mass some 15 degrees anticlockwise (looking at the nut on the face of the mass) – started reasonably well but seemed to get richer as it reached operating temperature – ended up with gouts of black smoke out of the exhaust.


I am very puzzled now as I have read that I should rotate the mass anticlockwise if I find the engine runs rich – or do I have another problem?



By the way I have a horrible suspicion that I rotated the nut on the face of the mass whilst trying to work out how to open up the choke – is this an issue?



Your article (shortcut above) mentions a notch in the bimetallic spring – is this the same as the loop in the spring?
Please review my YouTube videos about the Strombergs. Log onto YouTube and then search for our videos by placing "universitymotorsltd" in the search window. We have about 55 videos up right now, and four or so cover the Strombergs. BTW, when you turn the heatmass anticlockwise it should lean out the mixture -- but calibration is important!
Fuel"Those Damn Zenith Strombergs"Per your recommendation during the carburetor seminar, please send me a copy of the write up you provided Peter on Tuesday morning on the Stromberg equipment. I have a friend at B&W with a Stromberg carb that is interested in it.

University Motors Press
THOSE DAMN ZENITH STROMBERGS

The Home model MGBs and Midgets were not plagued with this Triumph inspired imitation SU. We are. The Home and most export model MGBs and Midgets (running the Triumph Spitfire 1500 engine) continued to use twin HIF4 carbs. The Canadian, Federal, and California specification MGs were fitted with the Stromberg. Emission specifications were cited as reasons to move to one carb (more easily kept in tune than two carbs), but why not choose the HIF6? Despite all the assurances of the manufacturer that this single carb could lessen emissions, the Zenith often runs dramatically rich.

When the carburettor does run extremely rich, and if the emission control system (air pump and catalytic converter) is still in place, then the converter will glow cherry red-hot. This carburettor is responsible for hundreds of underbonnet fires! Yet, with a little regular maintenance, this carb will provide quick starts, perform correctly and safely, and can offer relatively high mileage compared to the twin SUs.

ADJUSTING THE CARBURETTOR

Properly tuning the Stromberg requires the Factory specific “Stromberg Adjusting Tool.” This is a long 1/8” Allen wrench within a pinned tube. The Allen wrench turns the adjuster screw; the pinned tube keeps the air piston from rotating and tearing the carburettor diaphragm. In addition, to adjust the fast idle and normal idle, have a 10mm (or 3/8”) long open end wrench, a small screwdriver, and a medium screwdriver available. A tach/dwell is always helpful.

Start the engine from cold. Adjust the spring loaded idle screw until the engine runs at 1600 – 1800 rpm. Once the engine reaches operating temperature and the choke is off, adjust the lock-nut screw (hence the 10mm wrench) until the engine idles at 850-900 rpm. Make all further adjustments to the spring loaded screw.

Now adjust the mixture. First, shut the idle air bleed screw all the way. This is the brass screw within the 5/8 hex white valve on the right, or rear, side of the carburettor. Now, lift the air piston ever so slightly and judge the change in rpm. Either lift the piston with a small screwdriver, down the throat; or, better, unscrew the dashpot damper, angle it dramatically, and lift. A “perfect” mixture allows an increase of about 50rpm as the piston as raised. If lifting the piston higher and higher causes the idle speed to continue to increase, the mixture is too rich. If, on the other hand, the idle speed slows or stumbles while lifting the piston, the mixture is too lean. Turn the Allen wrench CLOCKWISE to ENRICHEN the


mixture. Turn the Allen wrench ANTI-CLOCKWISE to LEAN the mixture. Make adjustments first in full turns, then in half turns, and finally in quarter turns. Rev up the engine, blow out the exhaust, between EACH adjustment! Again, raise the piston SLIGHTLY and judge the change in rpm. The rpm will rise about 50, then fall off the higher the piston is raised.


RUNNING RICH

The most common complaint in tuning this carburettor is that not matter what adjustments are made, the mixture remains too rich. There are five major reasons:

1) The air cleaner is filthy and sooted. This is not uncommon, as ANY leaks at the exhaust manifold will soot up a fresh air cleaner in no time at all! Expect to find those leaks between the head to manifold, manifold to converter / manifold to front pipe, manifold to front pipe, or a cracked exhaust manifold. Once the air filter is restricted, the vacuum at the venturi increases, which causes a higher fuel to air mixture.

2) The Evaporative Loss Control (ELC) system is pressurised. This condition is very uncommon, but easily checked. Remove the vapour line from the carburettor – the one that connects the carb float bowl to the charcoal adsorption canister. There should be NO CHANGE in the idle speed or operation of the engine. If there is a change – the idle speed increases or decreases – then inspect the ELC system for blockages. If the ELC system is pressurised then the gasoline will be pushed into the jet with more than atmospheric pressure – causing a higher fuel to air mixture. It is far more common for the ELC system to develop a vacuum that creates a lean running condition. In fact, it is the primary cause of lean running!

3) There is a problem with the automatic choke. Choke problems account for most rich running problems!

a) The choke assembly has separated slightly from the carburettor body. In this condition, the vacuum from the carburettor draws fuel from the carb float bowl along the loose gasket, bypassing the choke valve (closed during running). Simply tighten the three slotted copper coloured screws to eliminate this problem!

b) The choke lever and fast idle cam are stuck partly open. A good tune-up includes service to this assembly. Remove the heat mass from the choke, and the choke from the carb. Tighten the small axle nut, then lubricate (oil and/or WD-40) while exercising the piston and cam assembly.

c) The bi-metal spring in the heat mass is not correctly calibrated. To recalibrate, remove the heat mass from the choke and boil it. While still at boiling temp, mark the outside of the heat mass housing to indicate the position of the small rectangle at the end of the bi-metallic spring.
Once cooled, notch that mark with a file or hack saw. Replace the heat mass with this NEW mark aligned with the mark on the black plastic insulator and the complementary mark on the choke housing.

d) The passageway for the vacuum kick piston is sooted. When the engine is not running, the spring loaded, vacuum kick piston pulls the choke all the way ON. Once the engine is started, the vacuum in the intake manifold is routed to the underside of the kick piston, pulling it all the way OFF. The position of the bi-metal spring in the heat mass then determines the true position of the choke. If the passageway is plugged, the choke remains ON. To clear this small hole, remove the choke assembly from the carb, then use a piece of small diameter wire to clear the hole. Compressed air and carburettor cleaner are helpful!

e) The mating flange of the choke assembly is warped. If the mating surfaces are not parallel, then intake manifold vacuum will pull gasoline from the float bowl, by-passing the choke valve (as in “a”). Remove the heat mass, then remove the choke from the carburettor body. SURFACE the mating flange with 600 (or so) paper.
Clean the choke assembly CAREFULLY, as any grit entering the vacuum kick piston will foul its operation. Blow carburettor cleaner / compressed air through the vacuum kick piston from the INSIDE port!

f) The brass valve in the choke housing is not fully seated. We have encountered this condition only several times. Determine the positive seat of the choke sliding pin by ensuring the vacuum kick piston has not bottomed on the interior housing of the choke assembly. The vacuum kick piston must have free play to move farther after the pin is fully seated in it’s housing.

If the automatic choke is suspected to cause rich running, remove it, tape over the holes and orifices, and recheck the mixture. Whether the choke is attached or not attached should make NO DIFFERENCE in engine operation (once the engine is thoroughly warmed).

4) The air piston rubber diaphragm is torn. The greater the demand for air/fuel mixture, the higher the air piston must rise. If the diaphragm is torn, the piston will sit lower than normal, increasing the vacuum at the venturi which increases the fuel to air ratio. When the diaphragm is badly torn, the MG is limited to about 15 mph, spewing huge clouds of block, sooty, uncombusted exhaust. Simply remove the suction chamber, withdraw the piston, and inspect the diaphragm. Replace the old screws with NEW 10-32 x ½” Phillips roundhead screws.

5) The needle is disassembled. This is a rare condition. The metering needle is held in a small barrel, under spring force, by a very small pin. If this pin breaks or dislodges, then the needle pops upward by 1/8” or so, and even full adjustment cannot correct for such a gross misplacement. To inspect for this problem, remove the air piston. The shoulder of the metering needle should be in plain view. If it has slipped up inside the barrel and if the metering needle has dramatic up and down freeplay, then either replace the needle or repair it (paper clip wire works wonderfully).


RUNNING LEAN

A lean running condition is often described as a hesitation, a lack of full power, as though the car was running against a strong headwind or pulling a trailer. Retarded timing or a weak fuel to air mixture causes leanness. There are several causes of lean running:

1) The ELC system is plugged. This places a vacuum above the gasoline in the float bowl. Remove the vent line from the carb and note any change. A plugged charcoal adsorption canister (from dirt or from a previous “overflowing “ condition) or plugged vent lines from the bottom of the anti-run on valve are the most common problems.

2) The float height is set too low. Remove the carb to properly set the float height (5/8” or 16mm) or simply align the casting mark of the float parallel with the bottom of the carburettor body.

3) The air cleaner is not fitted – OR – an aftermarket air clean is fitted. For reasons (still unclear to this author) of air pressure available to the bottom of the carburettor air piston diaphragm, this carb WILL NOT run correctly with any air cleaner but the factory cleaner!!! It may rev up in the shop OK, and it may run fine to about 2500 rpm – but it will not operate well on the road!


CARB WILL NOT IDLE DOWN

Sometimes the carb will not idle at lower than 1000 or 1200 rpm. This is almost always a mechanical problem, but the possibilities include:

1) Throttle cable is stiff or incorrectly adjusted. Leave this cable loose until the carb is completely adjusted, THEN tighten the two nuts with 7/16" wrenches, allowing ¼” freeplay at the cable pedestal on the bulkhead.

2) The cam within the automatic choke is not returning to a "full off" position. Sometimes the plastic plunger on the bottom side of the au
FuelDe-Smogging Section In Technical ManualI got the technical manual, thanks, but there wasn't a
section on de-smogging the MGB. I think it must have been left out
for the 2008 sessions. A legal issue? I believe you had the
instructions on your web site at one time. Any way you can email them?
The de-smogging section was in the technical manual. It is located in the first 100 pages. You can fill your MGB dashpots the same
way you did with your Triumph carbs. I fill them to over flow. When
your dashpots are being consumed on one tank of gas, it is time to change your O-rings.
FuelDe-Smogging / Wiper Switch I have been sifting through your many videos and I must say I have learned a great deal. I am starting to restore my 1978 MGB Roadster and have a few questions to ask, if you don't mind that is. Firstly, the previous owner took off the emission system and very badly plugged the holes and just left some open. I ordered a "Detox Kit" off of ebay and hope to take care of some of that, but I was wondering, will this give me worse gas mileage by him taking this system off and me plugging the holes? Could this have any adverse effects on the performance of my MG? Second, my windshield wiper system is a bit funky, I have to have the switch in between settings for it to turn off, could you maybe tell me if the switch is bad, or if the wipers just won't seat properly, or maybe something entirely different? If you don't feel like responding or something along those lines let me know and I won't take it to heart or anything as I know you are a busy man. It is actually better for your car with the smog equipment off of your car. Make sure the evaporative system is still on your car and the charcoal canister is still on your car. The charcoal canister is good for your car. As for the wiper switch, we put up a video about the working of the wiper switch.
FuelShorter Carb Needle / Fixed Distributor Base PlateWant to get
info on how to order your tech. manual+ I recently purchased a 1976 MGB
w/ all emissions still connected (sticker under bonnet says,"Conforms to
California regulations", not sure if all US made cars had that.) ,car
has 52,000 mls on it.Engine is running rich (I did veiw your video's on
S-Z carbs + read the some of the tech. Q+A page,THANK YOU!!!),
disassembled carb ,found gas was starting to gel clogging some ports,
ordered parts for rebuild for my S-Z 175 CD2 carb, tag # 54243 (3766).
Received a new metering needle from Moss part# 374-400 #45H, which is
shorter than the needle that was removed. Can you tell me the part
number that is correct for my carb? Carb has been worked on previously.
Also, the carb gasket kit came with two different washers for needle and
seat assembly. One is very thin, the other is a thick metal , which one
is correct? Also ordered a Grose type ball valve. Dist. has a Piranha
electronic ignition conversion kit installed.While disassembling dist.
for inspection + cleaning I noticed the metal base plate for mounting
sensor is fixed + cannot move. Since rod from vac.advance is connected
to base plate it makes vac advance non functioning !!! Is this correct
for conversion kits to do this ??
The length is ok if it is different as long as it
has the same profile. As for the washers they just get used as required.
Your dist. is not correct. The base plate should move. Either a screw was
put in which is too long causing it not to move or it is a fix plate. Some
were made with fixed plates even though its not right.
FuelFuel PumpI have a question about Automotive Electric Fuel Pump. I'm not sure were the wires go? I have a pink and black. Also, I know the one end hooks to the fuel filter . Does the other end go to the Carburetor? The fuel filter is normally located under the bonnet. We are not familiar with aftermarket fuel pumps and cannot assist you.
FuelTriumph Water Choke have a 1980 triumph spitfire with a broken Fast idle pin housing? That is the plastic pieces on the outside of the water choke used by the accelerator are broken (not the plug).

Excuse the lack of "technical terms" - do you know of a place I can order parts for the auto. water choke?
John does not have that part for the water choke you are looking for and he does not know where another one could be found. Sorry for not being more of a help.
FuelTR6 Running LeanMy TR6 seems to be running chronically lean. Plugs indicate a
bone-white electrode on each cylinder. The 'air valve lift test' says
mixture is weak. Motor feels a little hamstrung, without that fatty,
meaty midrange you'd expect. No vacuum or airleaks that I can find.
Timing is dead on. The carbs balance out with a flow-meter at idle and
about 3k or so.

I'm running Strombergs with B1AF needles with individual filters (K&N).
I've got the needles screwed all the way in (clockwise) and I'm running
40 weight in the dampers. Stock manifold, head, exhaust. I let a guy I
was buying all my parts from do a carb rebuild, but I think he just went
over the shaft and replaced all the rubber bits that wear.

It seems to me I should be able to dial in some richness with the needle
height, but no good. I've pulled the valves to confirm the needles were
free enough to rise and fall with the adjuster, and they are. Do you
think there's anything I'm missing here? Is there a richer needle I
could get? Maybe a function of the high ethynol levels in the fuel?
Have you heard this complaint from 6 setups?
Gosh, the usual complaint is that the carbs run too rich all the
time. Some would suggest that the air filters are not restrictive enough
and you should go with richer needles. I know this is the case with MGBs
when chaing over to the K&N filters, although the original needles work well
and the AAA needles the manufacturer suggests are too rich.

What about the float height? I know it's a bear to get those carbs
off, but the float can be (and sometimes is) fitted upside down. When
properly placed, the casting line in the float should run parallel with the
bottom edge of the carb.

Another thing to investigate would be the evaporative canister. If
the canister is not venting well enough, then the vacuum from the carbs
could be pulling on the air in the float chambers and causing a lean
condition.
FuelAnti Run-On ValveI have an 80B with a
run on problem. I've watched the video on YouTube about the ELC system's
and noticed that when you plugged up the fresh air hose coming from the
anti-run-on valve that the car stalls. When i tried this with my vehicle,
the car ran perfectly fine. All the hoses are hooked up properly
according to diagrams i've found, and i cannot find a reason why it won't
work correctly. Is there anything in particular that you've come across
in your experience that would cause this to happen?
There are three possibilities that come to mind. First, the anti
run-on valve might not be working. With the engine running, place your
fingers on the anti run-on valve. Have your associate turn the engine OFF.
You should feel the valve click when the key is turned to OFF and it should
click again, up to ten seconds later. If it doesn't work, check out the
wiring connections and the fuse in the slate wiring (under the fusebox). If
it does...

Feel each hose throughout its length. It is VERY common to have the
hose between the steel line and he carb cracked or perforated -- same with
the hose from the canister to the valve cover.

If one of the screws holding the auto choke to the carb are missing
(not uncommon) then a vacuum cannot be created inside the float bowl.
FuelVacuum LeakI have a 1980 MGB. I just detoxed it per your manual and rebuilt the Zenith. It runs great except at idle it cycles from 750 rpm to 1000. It just goes up then down, never threatening to stall just "roaming".
Is that a mixture issue? It runs great at normal speed.
You have a textbook example of a vacuum leak. Find the leak by training a spray of carb cleaner between the head and manifold, manifold and heat shield, heat shield and spacer block, spacer block and carburetter, all the manifold fittings, the joint between the brake master cylinder and the brake servo. When you find the leak the idle will either rise or fall dramatically as the carb cleaner is drawn into the airflow. The most common area to find this leak is the #1 inlet port. Repair is difficult as many of the manifolds are warped. Give me a call for more information.
FuelLeaking Fuel PumpMy fuel pump is leaking on my 1972 MGB so I am planning to replace it. I plan to buy the electronic version that is a direct replacement. Is there anything special I need to do, or can I just disconnect and remove the old one and install the new one? Is it hard to do? It is very unusual for a fuel pump to be leaking. Check the fittings and lines around the fuel pump to make sure the leak is not coming from somewhere else. if you do disconnect just make sure the lines are clamped shut so fuel wont leak all over you. E. Lawrie Rhodes rebuilds fuel pumps. (508) 359-2077 Elawrene@verzion.net.
FuelMeasuring Carb Air FlowAbout HIF carbs tuning, I don’t have a gauge to measure the amount of air flow. Can I use a vacuum gauge connected to the pipe on the collector, just after the carbs?



How do you use the rubber tube that you showed on the video, to use instead of the air flow gauge?

You cannot use a vacuum gauge. Put the tube to your ear and listen closely. If one is drawing more air it will be making a louder vacuum noise.
FuelAffects of EthanolI am a long time owner of many MGBs and my current one is a '65 tourer. Over the years I have had its engine, transmission, and other bits and pieces rebuilt. I do most of the "easy" work myself like changing the thermostat from winter to summer, etc., but rely upon a terrific local shop, Motorhead, ltd. to take care of the "hard" stuff.

I'm writing to seek your advice on the affects of ethanol in gasoline on MGBs. As I'm sure you are aware, parts of the country have started using the 10% ethanol mixture in the local gasoline. I've been reading on the web some disconcerting comments about how the ethanol mixture will be a problem for older cars that have carburetors, rubber seals, and hoses.

http://www.aaamidatlantic.com/automotive/carbuying/articles.asp?aid=24
I've read both sides of the discussions, am totally confused, and would like your take on the situation. I usually add an octane boostser and dry gas once or twice a year to my fuel. My present MGB isn't my daily driver but I use it quite regularly on clear, dry days, year-around, so the fuel is "changed" on a consistent basis.

What do you think?
Of course, ethanol does not contain the same number of BTU's, gallon for gallon, as does "real" gasoline. But so far the only problem that we've encounted with our MGs is the gross expansion of rubber gaskets. Fortunately, there are not many of these within the fuel system. There are some rubber gaskets inside the fuel pump, but they've not been a problem at all. The rubber O ring that seals the sending unit against the tank on the MGB has not been a problem. The only snags we've hit are with the aftermarket rubber sending unit gaskets for the T type, MGA, and early MGB.

So, as far as it goes right now, we've seen no downside (except mileage) to the addition of ethanol to the gasoline.
FuelMGA Fuel LeakI have a 1956 MGA. I recently bought it from a fellow in Colorado Springs and had it shipped to Burlington, Ontario. I noticed in the last couple of days a leak from the fuel tank. It appears to be leaking from a device on the passenger side of the tank. It has recently got cold here but the garage is always above freezing. The previous owner had a new fuel tank installed. Is it possible the colder temperatures have caused a seal to break? Is the device on the passenger side of the tank the fuel level equipment. Any suggestions as to what the most common causes of the leak could be.

The unit on the RH side of the tank is the fuel sending unit.

It could be that the cold weather has exposed a poorly fitted unit; it could be that the unit was fitted with a rubber gasket which will leak under all but perfect conditions; it could be that you've added some gasoline which has either 1) filled the tank higher than what it was, hence exposing a leak which was always there; or 2) you have alcohol in your gasoline which can make that rubber gasket fail.

In any case, drain the tank (the fitting on the bottom), or siphon it out. Then, remove the sending unit and give me a call and we can decide what the problem was and how it can be repaired.
GaugesGaugesTo-date the restoration is proceeding well (as time & $$$ permit) however I am unable to acquire or sight the retaining clip/spring or bracket for the oil gauge. It appears there were only a very limited number of cars other than those sent to the USA which had square gauges as per the attached photo’s and very few sent to Australia. I would be very appreciative if you could assist with any info or photo of what is required. Thanking you in anticipation of your responseHarry, The picture attached with your email shows a rectangular mechanical oil pressure gauge common to all US / California / Canadian MGBs 1972 – 1976. This gauge was supported on two studs with a stylized tall round nut with a screwdriver slot on the end. My guess is that the thread is either 10-32 (really 2BA) or it could be 4BA, but that’s pretty small, so I doubt it. I don’t have a dash easily available to examine. I looked through our extensive VIN file and found a car previous to yours: GHN 5UE 340 156 G, engine 18V672Z L 24971, body MGBU 607176, commission number G23N 095975Z. The one following yours is GHN 5UE 340 277. Both were built in 1/74. The latter on we have listed as Bronze Yellow. Hope this little bit helps. John
GaugesSpeedometer Thread SizeI would like to know the thread size, both internal and external on a 1968 MGB speedometer drive. I'd like to put a electronic speedometer from Autometer in my car. I can make a threaded adapter for their speed sensor that attaches to the transmission if I was certain of the MGB angle drive thread size. My gauges check it to be about .750 or 19mm. A 1mm thread pitch gauge is my best fit, but I heard there is a Witworth thread close to that size. I just don't know. if you could steer me the right direction I would appreciate it. Thanks, Mike ConleyMike, You are correct, it's a British thread. The speedometer drive housing -- the accepts the 90 degree drive or the speedo cable, uses a 3/4 -26 British Standard Brass thread. The inside diameter of the plastic housing is 0.542 which appears neither metric nor fractional. Hope this helps.
GaugesTachometerDear John,

I have recently found your website for University Motors Ltd. I would like to both congratulate you on a site written by, and for, MG enthusiasts and to ask for some help.

I currently have a problem related to the tachometer of my 1976 MG Midget.

I have recently purchased a replacement tacho as the previous unit would jam at approximately 3500rpm. The unit I have been supplied with is an RVI2430/00, this unit is does not have the same electrical connections as the previous one, and does not work correctly. This is now the second RVI2430 unit and I am still having problems.

There are three connectors on the rear of the RVI2430/00, a male bullet, a female bullet and a male spade connector. In the dashboard position for the tacho there are three wires, a black ground, a green +12V female bullet and a black/white female spade connector. The black/white wire connects to the positive terminal of the coil and displays a +12V square wave with a frequency of the engine tickover.

I have tried to connect this tacho in the obvious manner of green-male spade, black-tacho securing nut and black/white-male bullet. This configuration shows no reading on the tacho.

My questions are as follows ;-

1) Will an RVI 2430/00 unit work with a 1500 Midgets wiring?

2) Is a voltage stabiliser, or any other piece of equipment required with the RVI 2430?

3) What should the wiring connections be for a 1500 Midget with a RVI 2430 unit?

Any help or suggestions you could provide would be greatfully accepted, as I have now had this problem for a number of weeks.

Regards,

Steven Sloan

STEVEN!

The problem here is that you have an earlier tachometer. Let me explain. The first tachs picked up a pulse between the key switch and the positive side of the coil. The very early units had an external "impulse loop." The next style (yours) had an internal impulse loop and polarized connectors for the wiring (male and female bullets). The later tachs (finally) picked up the impulse from the distributor side of the coil. Therefore, the earlier tachs had FOUR connexions -- power, earth, and the two operational wires; the later tachs had THREE connexions -- power, earth, and one operational wire.

So, to make your tach work, ensure the unit is earthed (spade or from one of the mounting studs) and that it has power (GREEN to the isolated spade on the back). I would run two wires down to the coil, and place the tach between the coil and the distributor (wire from negative side of coil to tach; and wire from tach to distributor). Which bullet (male or female) is which, I don't know -- you can find that by substitution.

Hope this helps
GaugesSpeedometer Hi I am looking for a speedometer for a 741/2 rubber bumper with O/D.The body # is GHN5UE365691-G and the speedometer that is in came with the car is a SN-5230/13 1000. I think the O/D unit was added to the car. Right now the speedometer and odemeter are 30% off. I am running low profile tires but I don't think they would make this big of a differnce.(185/65 14) I think I need a 5230/085 from what info I could dig up.

Thanks for your time

Steve Cote

STEVE!

This is probably the situation. You have an original speedometer in your car -- one that is calibrated at 1000 turns per mile (a small 1000 is printed on the bottom RH of the face). At some time in the past, an earlier overdrive was fitted (a top fill gearbox) which drives the speedo at 1280 turns per mile. So, you need a speedo fitted to an MGB from 1968 - 1974 (with that 1280 on the bottom RH of the face). There are two types of bezels, rounded (earlier) and angular (later). These are easily changed one unit to the other. Expect to pay around $50 for the unit, used.
GaugesSpeedometer RepairJohn,

Do you know of anyone who repairs speedometers? The one in my TD is missing the details for driving the odometer and I'm not sure if the speedometer even works. I'd like to do everything possible to repair the original this turning to Moss.

thanks,
Steve Stiff

Steve!

We use Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck, New York for our instrument repair. They can probably help you. I don't have the number, but the area code is 914.
GaugesInstrument Cluster Panel Mr. Twist, I am in the process of restoring a 1939 MG TB. Trying to keep it as original as possible, I am wondering if you can restore or recommend someone to restore the instrument cluster panel. It is the original flat black color and has some of the original white lettering above several of the controls still visible. I'd like to go back with the flat black color, but the letter font is rather odd and I'm perplexed as to how to get this lettering restored. I'd be interested in any ideas you would be willing to share.

Thanks,
Bill Gardner

BILL!

While there are two companies in this country that do a wonder job with instruments -- Nisonger Instruments and Palo Alto Speedometer, I believe the job you want can be performed either by Craig Seabrook, trading as "The Whitworth Shop" in Novelty, Ohio, or by John Marks, trading as Vintage Restoration, Tunbridge Wells, Kent, England (011 44) 189 252 5499.

Hope this helps.
GaugesSpeedometersDoes UM repair/calibrate speedometers? I want to have mine done over the winter but can't find a place that can do it.
Thanks, Tom Davis, 66MGB

Tom! We do not perform speedometer repairs. Instead send yours to Bob at Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck, New York; or Palo Alto Speedometer (I suppose in Palo Alto, CA). We use Nisonger. You can also use Moma in Albuquerque.
GaugesSpeedometer FluctuatingJohn,
I hope the bad weather we are hearing about down here is not in your neck of the woods. If it is then I guess it is better you than us! Several years back Sapp had a speedometer in his "B" that was fluctuating at speed of 40 to 50 mph. He ask you what the problem was and you told him
the cable. He bought a cable and I installed it. That solved the problem. I now have a T.D. with the same problem except when the speedometer fluctuates it does so violently. This fluctuating starts at 18-20 mph. I
installed a new cable but it did not solve the problem. Is there a simple solution to the problem like a light oiling?
As usual thanks for you help and I guess I'll owe you a beer and a hot dog at the next gathering.

Larry Diaz

The MGB problem is easy compared to yours -- well, at least less expensive. In your case it is the speedometer unit itself which is faulty. Remove it and send it to BOB at Nisonger Instruments, 570 Mamaroneck Highway, Mamaronect, NY -- he'll repair it and charge you about $100-$125
(my guess) and it'll work GREAT! You know, with this scare about tainted meat (from some Michigan packagers), one of the local schools has removed hot dogs from the menu -- can you imagine -- the great American hot dog -- banned in Wyoming,Michigan?? What is this world coming to?
GaugesTachometer John,

Thanks for all the information! I've a question about the tach in my '62
MGA. Recently I put in a 5 main 1800 and obviously the mechanical tach
won't
work. Have you ever done a conversion? Can the face of the Jaeger be
switched with a tach that will fit the dash dimensions and work? Any
ideas
at all on this?

I'd really like to have a tach again and I know there are many MGA's with
1800's in them, what do they all do?

Thanks,
Christopher

CHRIS!

The easiest solution is to use the SMITH'S tachometer from a 1965 - 1967
MGB or MIDGET. Yes, it says SMITHS on the face, but few will notice. You
can purchase this unit from Nisonger Instruments, Mamaroneck Highway,
Mamaroneck, New York. Bob, there, has been in the business for half a
century! This unit requires power (GREEN), earth (BLACK), and has an
"impulse loop" which must be connected either: 1) between the ignition
switch and the coil - which you can do WITHOUT adding wiring to the car,
or; 2) between the coil and the distributor which gives a better reading
(sometimes) and is easier to connect -- yet adds two wires between the dash
and the coil/distributor.
You don't relish the thought of non-matching instruments? Then switch to
SMITH'S instruments for both the TACH and the SPEEDO. But, before you send
your speedo to Bob, do this: Drive a measured distance -- on the Xpressway
-- and give Bob the actual mileage (from the mile markers) and the
indicated mileage (from your trip odometer). From your speedo and from the
error you've noted, Bob can provide you with a SPEEDO which will be "spot
on" in accuracy and match the face of the tachometer.
Total price for the whole thing -- probably $250 -- but that's my guess --
check with Bob. Area code 914.

Good luck!
GaugesSpeedometerJohn,

The first time I heard of you was back in the early 80's when you were
writing for Abingdon Classics. I called you back then for advise too!
My
problem is with my 1979 MGB, after running for 1/2 hr or so my
speedometer
cuts out. I am stumped on what to change. I have a new cable to put in,
but a quick inspection of the origional doesn't find anything grossly
wrong
compared to the new one. The car only has 47K miles on it. Is there any
way to check to two right angle assemblies, both seem to move freely, and
I
hate to take a guess as they are fairly expensive. I would appreciate
any
suggestions.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike!

There are very few components in this system: Gear on the gearbox
mainshaft; pinion gear on the gearbox; 90 degree drive unit on the gearbox;
speedo cable; speedometer. Which one is at fault? My guess is that the
nut on the back of the gearbox is loose and the speedometer drive gear
begins to freewheel. Or, maybe it's the pinion gear -- a plastic gear on a
steel axle -- perhaps that is spinning.
Tighten the rear nut on the gearbox with a 1 5/16" socket -- remove the
driveshaft first. An air ratchet makes this job MUCH easier.
Remove the pinion gear with a 7/16 socket -- WHOA -- all the gearbox oil
want to drain out -- well, not ALL -- but most of it. Maybe drain the
gearbox first -- at least you can control that draining.
I believe you'll find your problem(s) there.
GaugesClockThe clock in the tach of my MGTD does not operate. It has been repaired
twice. I understand there is a quartz replacement, using the original
face. The person that sold me the TD suggested I contact you for an
address of who might have these replacements. Can you help?

Thanks for any help you can render.

Safe/Fast

Stu Keen

STU!

Before you buy a new clock, remember that there is a small hole in the
clock (on its circumference) through which you can pass a pin to push the
escapement to start the clock. Most start on their own, but some require a
push. This happens anytime the battery is disconnected.

Contact Hal Kramer who writes for "The Sacred Octagon" at Drawer 220,
Oneonta, New York -- part of the New England MG 'T' Register.

Hope this helps!
GaugesSpeedometerJohn, Whoa, putting radials on the MGTD, like you said, was a GREAT
improvement. Now when I go into a turn, I have much better control of
the road. I find that I am also driving faster, because the radials are
a much more comfortable ride and I feel I have better control of the car
overall.


PROBLEM: I seem to be experiencing a difference in speedometer reading
now that I have the radials. Do you have any idea how much the
speedometer might be off now that I have "squishier" tires? The radials,
Continental 165R 15, are inflated to 32 psi. Is this a good level? It's
what the garage suggested.

Thanks again for your help. I'm off this weekend to the Sebring Vintage
Car Race, but don't intend to enter mine. Just be an observer. The
Suncoast British Car Club is going over in a caravan, lead by a 1952
Black Rolls Royce.

Stu Keen

STU!

There are two units in one: speedometer and odometer. Check the odometer
the next time you're on the expressway. The farther you drive, the more
accurate the correction. Take the "actual" mileage -- say 48 miles, and
the "indicated" mileage (from the speedo) -- say 38 miles. Now, send the
unit to Bob at Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck, New York. Give him
these two readings. He will change the gears inside the unit so that the
odometer reads correctly -- AND set the speedo so it reads right, too.
Although, I suspect that you didn't drive it much BEFORE you fitted the
radials and perhaps you are just more aware of the error, now, if there is
one.

I run those tires 28/30 or 30/32 front to rear.
GaugesSpeedometer & Odometer ProblemsJohn
I've recently purchased a MGCGT that appears to be in very good
condition, but of course has a number of small problems that must be
dealt with. My question to you concerns the speedometer which
fluctuates as I drive and the tachometer which operates normally then
dies, and then recovers after a bit. I know I used to run into this 35
years ago when I owned a series of MGs but I cannot remember the remedy.

Thanks for your help,
Paul Eckenroth

Paul!

The problem with the speedometer is probably the cable which is binding,
winding up, then whipping. Replacement of the cable is not easy, but it's
the first step! If you have overdrive, then you'll certainly purchase an
OD cable. If, however, you have a STD gearbox, STILL purchase the O/D
cable and eliminate the 90 degree drive on the side of the gearbox (allow
the speedo cable a wide radius). That 90 degree drive unit causes a lot of
trouble (but NOT the trouble you're having).

The problem with the tachometer is either inside the tach itself (send it
to Nisonger Instruments, Mamaroneck, New York) or simply the WHITE/GREEN
fuse in the fusebox. CLEAN that fusebox, PINCH the terminals, and you'll
probably have eliminated the erratic tach.
GaugesSpeedometer WobbleMr. Twist,

My 75 MGB speedo wobbles at low speeds and evens
out at higher speeds, although 10 mph too slow.
Any idea what may cause this?

Thanks in advance.

Robert Stevens

ROBERT!

A wobbly speedo is caused by a faulty speedo cable. You have two
cables in your car: 90 degree drive on the gearbox to the EGR counter; and
counter to speedo. My advice is to purchase an overdrive cable for 1974,
and fit that directly from the gearbox (no 90 degree drive) and route it
around the EGR counter. This will probably solve your problem. The gearbox
cable is wire wound and when it encounters some resistance on the inside of
the cable sheath will drag then whip -- causing the fluctuating needle.
Rarely is the problem in the speedo itself.

FAST FORWARD!
GaugesSpeedo Gear I have a 68 b with OD. The speedo gear seems to be worn out in the trans. Can I replace this gear by just removing the rear housing and the bearing? Or do I have to remove the OD housing. Is this a common problem? Any help would be appreciated. lalkie@acsol.net Thanks Larry

Larry! A 1968 MGB with a top fill gearbox should have WHITE speedo gears. You can purchase the driven gear, insert it and see if it works. Of course, if the cable is jammed, or if the speedo is stuck, then you run the chance of ruining the new gear, but the option is pretty difficult:

You MUST remove the engine and gearbox; remove the O/D from the gearcase; disassemble the O/D so that you can drive the annulus from the rear housing, and change the driving gear. There are exceptions to all rules. If you are VERY, VERY careful, it is possible to remove the annulus housing from the back of the O/D without removing the O/D from the gearbox. But you must be so careful not to disturb the relative positions of the planet gears!

So, make CERTAIN that the speedo and speedo cable are A#1 before you begin on this job!
GaugesGaugesJohn,

I need advice. While driving my 1980 MGB the gages for gas, heat and,
tach, stopped working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced
it
and it blew again but this time I smelled smoke coming from under the
dashboard. After I got home and using my volt/ohm meter, I determined
that
the voltage stabilizer was shot and replaced it along with the 2 green
wires connected to it. The insulation on the green wires was melted so
seemed like a good idea since I was under the dash.

All the gages and associated items on this circuit are working again. The
problem I have now is that when I put the turn signal on either left or
right, both sides blink at the same time just like putting on the hazard
warning lights, which never did work. I suspect that this problem is
related to the voltage stabilizer problem and the burned green wires since
the turn signals worked fine before the stabilizer went bad. I checked
the
turn signal switch with my volt/olm meter and it seems fine. Other then
re-wiring the turn signals do you have any suggestions where I should look
first. I suspect a direct short in the harness.

Thanks,

Len Kosatka

LEN!

I agree with your diagnosis that the GREEN/WHITE and the GREEN/RED
wires have shorted within the loom -- but WHERE??? Other than removing the
main loom, stripping the insulation, separating the individual wires, and
rewrapping and re-installing, I can offer no information. As dreadful as
this seems, the "dollar solution" is to run new wires from the turn signal
switch plug to the junction of the main and rear loom at the rear of the
right front inner fender. You will have to DISCONNECT the GREEN/WHITE and
GREEN/RED from the main loom (rear side) which now enter the Lucas four way
connectors which will knock out your turn signal dash indicators, but at
least you'll have turn signals!

I cannot imagine why the voltage stabiliser would have caused this
problem! This is the first dead short failure of that component of which
I'm aware. Could it be that something brushed up against it?
GaugesSpeedometersspeedometer?

There are several speedos, for sure. The speedos work with springs and magnets; the odometers are gear driven. So, check the odometer FIRST. Drive a measured distance on the xway (you've got to trust the government on this one) between mile markers and note the mileage you've elapsed. If you've gone 83 miles, and the odo says 82.3, then you'll not get closer than that! If you've gone 83 miles and the odo says 67.3, then you've got the wrong speedo. In either case, sent the unit to Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck, New York -- Bob will either recalibrate your speedo (if the odo is right); or, he will regear the odo AND recalibrate the speedo if the unit is the wrong one. This is the BEST way to approach the problem.FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist, Service Manager
GaugesspeedometerChris!

First the speedo as that's easier. A waving speedo is caused by a
binding speedo cable. The turning part of the cable snags, slows down, the
cable between that and the speedo continues to turn and "tightens up" then
it all lets loose and whips the speedo, indicating a momentary increase in
speed. Replace the cable with a new one. The other reason is that the
speedo itself is bound up from the trip odometer. In this case, watch the
trip odo (well, keep your eyes on the road, too) and see if the wave is
synchronous with the movement of the trip 1/10 mile indicator.

The electronic tachometer is wired thus: case to earth, spade
terminal to fused hot (Green). The small stud holds the plastic impulse
loop which is connected between the key switch and the hot side of the coil.
Do you have the impulse loop ( I doubt it). Also, as this is a
transistorized unit, it must have the correct earth (ground) to work. Is
your MGA positive or negative earth? The tach is originally positive earth.
Have you had it converted.

Call me during my technical hour for more details: 1-2pm EST M-F at
616 682 0800. Hope this helps

John Twist
GaugesFuel Guage in 1980 MGB Dear John:

I have seen your excellent advice over the years but this is the first
time I
have contacted you. My fuel gauge in my 80 MGB has not worked for several
years. All of a sudden, a couple of weeks back, I filled the tank and the
gauge read full. Elated, I began to notice the fuel gauge.
Unfortunately,
after a few miles, the gauge begins to fall and by the time I travel 70-90
miles, it reads empty again. This has happened each time I fill her up.
Do
you have any suggestions?
Howard

Howard!
The fuel sending unit is faulty -- purchase a new sending unit and a new
ring and seal -- probably $60 altogether. Jack the car up on the RH side so
the remaining gasoline rolls into the left hand side of the tank. Use a
blunted chisel to remove and refit the seals.
John

John!
Also, a backyard mechanic replaced my original distributor and electronic
ignition with a point type distributor. My RPM gauge does not work.
There
appears to be a two prong connection hanging loose near the distributor.
Is
this the lead wire to the RPM gauge? Do I need to replace the Distributor
to
get the RPM gauge to work?

There has to be a WHITE/BLACK connection at the coil (which provides the
impulse for the tach). It must have been disconnected.


Also, I have one complete Midget that hasn't run in many years plus a good
body shell with no engine and rough interior. Where would the best place
be
to advertise these for sale?
Howard Meade

Howard!
Try www.mgcars.org.uk
John

John!
Sorry about the weird stuff but I'm truly not a mechanic and totally inept
in
regards to electrical problems.

Thank you for the forum to ask.
Best Regards,
Howard Meade

GaugesWhere can I get an MGA Gauge Rebuild
Dear Sirs:

Do rebuild MGA gauges and if not would you make a recommendation.

Thank you for your help

Tim
My first stop is always Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck, NY. They seem to advertise everywhere!


GaugesMGB Tachometer reading problemsJohn
My 65B's tach reads approx. double what it should I have swapped it for another tach which I know to be good but the problem is still there.
I still have not been able to trace where the problem is The car is completely standard and does not have electronic ignition
I have also noted that the warmer it gets the more eractic the reading gets Any suggestions you have would be appreciated
thks
John
John!

You can work with the position and size of the "impulse loop" (the white ignition wire threaded through the small plastic block on the back of the tachometer). If this fails, then send the instrument to Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck, New York for repair.

John
GaugesGauge for 67B Hello John,
A little over a year ago you helped get my 67 MGB-GT running. The car
is
still road worthy and driven often.
I need your help with a gauge. Seems I shorted out my generator gauge
and
now it doesn't work. I've looked through some of the parts catalogs, but
they
don't mention this gauge. Is it possible to buy a new gauge or can the old
one be rebuilt?

Kit!

You have either an ammeter or a voltmeter -- I cannot remember which
one. The car doesn't need that meter, so you could simply leave it
disconnected. But, I'll bet you can find one through eBay that would match
the one you have now. Also, contact Bob at Nisonger Instruments in
Mamaroneck, NY, as he rebuilds all the Smiths/Jaeger gauges. Hope this
helps!

John
GaugesSpeedo for 62AMy Jaeger speedo on my 1962 MGA 1600 Mark II is done for. Can it be replaced with a 63 or 64 B speedo?

If I want to rebuild the unit who are good contacts for the rebuild or purchase of another unit?


The large diameter gauges, Jaeger or Smiths, are interchangeable from 1956-1967. In the case of the speedometers, the critical feature is the "turns per mile" that the speedo cable makes to register one mile on the odometer. The speedometer is calibrated from that tpm, too.

Your MGA is probably calibrated at 1440 tpm (that number is located on the bottom right of the face of the speedometer), but depending on the diff ratio, could be larger or smaller. An early MGB is calibrated at 1040.

What to do?

Send your instrument to Bob at Nisonger Instruments (see their website www.nisongerinstruments.com) in Mamaroneck, NY. I cannot vouch for their pricing, but it will probably cost you about $150. I can vouch for their quality, which is excellent. eBay? Buying a used unit is a pig in a poke.

Hope this helps.

John
GaugesMGB Speedometer and ChokeJohn,
I have a 1967 MGB roadster, I bought a replacement for my 67B, but when I recieved it one of the mounting screws on the back of the case was broke off.
I took the guts out of the replacement gage and thought I would switch it out with my original one. My problem, I can't get it into the original case, the trip meter shaft won't allow me to get it back inside the case. I know there has to be a simple way to do this, but I just can't figure it out. Any help would be appreciated.
Please answer asap by email, as I would like to get it back together.

Second question, I have a 1976 B that I want to install a weber downdraft carb with elec. choke on, how would you recommend I setup the choke?
Thanks,
Mickey
Mickey!

You've already fix these problems, I'm sure -- but if not.

On the speedo you'll see the world's second tiniest tension pin through the extension of the trip odo shaft. Remove that tension pin.

I am no fan of the Weber downdraught carbs. Get that Stromberg fixed. It can and will work well for you if the rebuild is done correctly.

John
GaugesTrip OdometerHi Mr. Twist,

I am looking at buying a 1967 MGB Roadster from a private individual that has very very low miles and NO rust. However, there is a knob in the glovebox that is broken that is connected somehow with resetting the trip odometer. The trip odometer does not work (numbers do not change) so I am presuming that there is a gear or something inside the speedometer housing broken that is driven by the cable running from the knob in the glovebox. Can these two things (knob in glovebox and trip odometer in speedometer housing) usually be fixed or are these two issues usually something that cannot be fixed (in general, I realize there are always exceptions) and so I can either buy the car and live with the problems or else not buy the car?

If either or both of the problems can be fixed can you please give me a general idea of what I am looking at in repair costs?

Thank you Mr. Twist.

Greg
Greg!

The trip odometer is reset with a small knurled knob that hangs beneath the speedometer itself. It is necessary to push this knob and its connecting shat upwards to engage the resetting gears. I have no idea what the knob in the glovebox might be -- unless it was owner installed. No matter, I would not let this prevent the purchase of the car! Worse case -- you remove the speedometer and send it to Nisonger in Mamaroneck NY for a rebuild -- it'll cost you about $150.


John
GaugesDash Lights and TachometerDear John,
I am a proud owner of a 1966 MGB. I've had it since 1974 and have had relatively little problems with it.
I have two questions:

First- I converted it to 12v.+. As you know ther tach will not work. I did reverse the diode as suggested in the Moss cat. But to no avail. What else can I try and can I replace the tach with another years model?

Second- the dash lights are not very bright at any time (the very few times I drive at night). I have cleaned the contacts, the bulbs and even painted the inside of the instruments white for more light reflection...again what else can I do.

Ever appreciative of your help and knowledge!!!
Sincerely,

Joseph
Joseph!

The dash lights are the easier of your two dilemmas to solve.

First, the dash rheostat must be clean. Often, simply rotating it back and forth twenty times or so will effectively clean the contacts. Second, the bulbs must be new. Bulbs with years and years of use develop a coating on the inside of the glass -- an opaque silvery black -- I suspect from the discharge from the filament. You can easily purchase these bulbs from NAPA. Or, you can purchase the bulbs from Little British Car Company in a halogen (at least some kind of extra brilliance). Hope this helps.

The tach requires its circuit board to be properly polarized -- and requires the impulse loop to be properly polarized. You have to do three things here: Reverse the power and earth contacts within the tach; reverse the flow through the impulse loop (cutting the wires and reversing them); and, lastly, recalibrating the tach (deftly holding it, in hand, with a shop tach connected to the ignition circuit, and dialing it in around 3500 rpm -using the rheostat on the back side of the unit to adjust the position of the needle.

Call if you have further questions!

John
GaugesGas Gauge FailureJohn,

All electric works except for the gas gauge. When I put my test light on the lead going into the gas tank I have power. Is it likely internal to the tank?

Keith
Keith!

Your test light, placed between earth and the GREEN/BLACK wire at the tank, should flash ON-OFF-ON-OFF like a slow turn signal. At the same time the gauge will move over to FULL. This lets you know that the voltage stabilizer is working (a bi-metal strip, just as a turn signal flasher), and the gauge and wiring is OK. The fault is ALWAYS the sending unit

The unit most often fails because the float sinks. A broken wire is the next most common reason.

Jack the car up on the RH side, so all the gasoline moves over to the LH side. Start with far less than 1/2 tank. Use a blunt drift to tunk tunk tunk the sealing ring anti-clockwise. Use a new ring and gasket (ARA 1701 and ARA 1702), both well greased.

Hope this helps!

John
GaugesTemperature GaugeJohn,

1977 B

Temp gauge does not indicate.

Solid green wire at dash end pulses the light tester.

I’ve replaced the sender with no luck.

Putting a direct ground on the green with stripe wire connected to the gauge causes the temp reading to max indication with power on.

The car runs great and isn’t overheating.



Help?!

Eric!

Test the wire at the temperature sensor -- the GREEN/BLUE wire. It should pulse after the ignition has been on for 20 seconds or so. My guess is that there is a high resistance connexion there at the end of the GREEN/BLUE wire.



John
GaugesTach, Fuel, and Temp Gauge FailureJohn,
I have a 1979 MGB LE. I just finished doing a restoration project on it that has taken a couple years. I was out driving today, and something happen to my gauges that I'm stumped on.
While driving the tachometer, fuel gauge, and temp, all just stopped working. Then a couple of minutes later that started working again.
Any ideas what may cause this? Please help, I'm stumped on this.


Thanks

Adam
Adam!

You have one of two problems: a faulty ignition relay (or connections), or a dirty fusebox. Start at the fusebox. You're looking at the third fuse down -- WHITE/BROWN on the forward, unfused side; GREEN on the rearward, fused side. Use your 12volt testlight. Is there power on the WHITE/BROWN clips? If not, then the ignition relay will be the problem. That's the round relay, in FRONT of the fusebox with four wires: BROWN and WHITE/BROWN -- and -- WHITE and BLACK. You can temporarily jump the WHITE to the WHITE/BROWN and see if everything is working correctly.

Hope this helps!

John
GaugesFaulty Tach, BugeyeJohn:
Having just read your tech. articles in May/June MGB DRIVER, I thought you may be able to offer insight into my 1959 Bugeye tach. conversion problem. PO has converted it to NEG. ground. I purchased a used electric tach, the kind with the wire loop that fits in the hole where the mechanical tach is. Following Frank Clarici's instructions, I open the new/used tach. and it appears that the green wire and the resister have been swapped by it's PO. Before hooking up the tach., I ran a wire from the hot (with ignition on) side of switch and touched the other end to either side of the coil. when touching to the coil, engine started to quit. Shorting something out. Something is BACKASSWORD.
Do you have any clues and where I should start troubleshooting?

Thank You
Paul

Paul!

The earlier style tachometer senses the pulse on the power side of the coil. The later tachometers use a pulse from the distributor side of the coil.

The tach must have power -- from a GREEN, fused wire to the spade. It must be earthed (BLACK wire under one of the legs holding it against the dash).

The impulse loop must be connected from the key switch to the + post on the ignition coil (the - side of the coil goes to the distributor). The impulse loop will not drive the tach if the current is going in the wrong direction -- so hook it up one way first and if that doesn't work, reverse the position of the wires.

The reason your engine quit is because you applied power to the distributor side of the coil.

Hope this helps

John
GaugesTemperature Gauge, V8 ConversionHello Mr. John Twist,

I have put a 1963 Buick 215 aluminum V8 in my 1980 MGB. I am trying to use the original temp gauge. My problem is that after running the engine for just several minutes the gauge goes over to HOT. I have tested the gauge by grounding it on a battery and it appears to be fine. I bought a new sender from Victoria British. Though the engine does not have a thermostat in, I did put a thermostat in without the guts for restriction. The car has not been rewired yet so the gauge is wired direct without the voltage stabilzer and black "thing" coming off the output/green wire side of the stabilzer.

My questions are: Where should the needle on the gauge be pointing at about 180 degrees? I know that the car is not running hot when the gauge is sitting on HOT because I put a digital temp probe on the temp sender and it reads about 180 degrees in addition to not being THAT hot to the touch of hand. Is my gauge bad? Or could I have a pocket of air trapped next to the sender instead of coolant covering it. What is the purpose of the voltage stabilzer? Will not using one change the reading on the fuel gauge or ruin a tach that I tried to convert to read 8 cylinder by installing a potentimeter?

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated. I am stumped as to what to do next.

Thanks, Dirk

Dirk!

The voltage stabilizer is an integral part of the gauge circuits -- without it the gauges will read considerably higher than they should. The stabilizer works much like a turn signal flasher, switching on and off. With the stabilizer, though, the higher the voltage, the more it's off; the less the voltage, the more it's on. So, it "stabilizes" the voltage over a period of time -- it does NOT give a constant voltage.

I do not have the resistance ranges for the sending units right here -- I do believe they're on some of the better MG technical websites.

The stabilizer has nothing to do with the tachometer -- so you're clear there.

Right now there are no stabilizers. Moss is trying to come up with a source.

Hope this little bit helps!

John
GaugesInaccurate SpeedometerHi John;

We just did a conversion from a standard transmission to an overdrive on a '74 MGB. We used the later LH version box and everything went great until we road tested it and noted a slight variation in the speedometer (10 to 12
mph low). We expected there to be a variation and made sure that the pinon gear in the transmission body was right. I guess we didn't take into account that the "gearing" drive in the speedo body would be different or incompatible.??

Our research suggests that there are a couple of solutions, but I would love to hear your suggestion before we dive in and waste a bunch of time.
Thanks!!
Jim!

There are two speedo drive speeds between 1968 and 1980: 1280 turns per mile 68-74; and 1000 tpm between 74/2 and 80. You have installed a 1000 tpm geared OD into a car with a 1280 speedo. So, you're off 20%.

Two solutions: remove the OD and replace the gears with the proper ones (new, about $150, I think); or, find a 1000 speedo and install it.

Easy decision!

John
GaugesSpeedo RemovalJohn,
I'm trying to replace the glass in my speedo on my 79 mgb. I can get my hand behind it and remove the light and cable. I understand you can grab the speedo from behind, twist it and push in to release it but doesn't seem to work. Any trick to doing this?
Keith
Keith!

Push the speedo INTO the dash, rotate it to about 2:00, and it will come right out of the dash.

John

BTW, you'll have to get a good glass man for that piece as there is a hole for the trip odo reset right down at 6:00.
GaugesTachometer DelayJohn,

I hope you can answer this question, I would greatly appreciate your help.

I have not had any luck finding any information after scouring the internet to find an answer. What might be causing my tachometer from not responding at all after I start the engine until I rev the engine several times.

It will not change from zero even after the engine warms up until the engine is reved.

Thanks for your help.

Mike
Mike,

Something like a quarter to a third of all later MGBs now suffer this delay. It actually isn't a delay but a sticky needle. If you rap your knuckle on the face of the instrument, the needle will pop right up. You can have the instrument repaired by Nisonger Instruments, Mamaroneck, New York for $100+ or suffer the condition.

Hope this helps!

John
GaugesTemperature Gauge, MGB LEHello John,
I've had an apparent change in the operating temperature range of my 1980 MGB LE and just wanted to run the inquiry past you.

About a month ago while on a short drive I noticed that my temperature gauge began to fluctuate wildly, never going to HOT but dropping just above the COLD end of the gauge,then rising. As I was close to the regular coolant change I not only performed that, but of course replaced the thermostat.The gauge then went much higher than usual, but stayed at a uniform place about 3/8'' to the right of the midway point. What did change was that the twin cooling fans were now coming on earlier than in the past and running much longer, basically operating throughout most of any drive.

A longtime friend who owns a local auto shop and is well familiar with MG's said that after my explanation wondered if the origional thermostat (3 years old) might not have been malfunctioning in the first place, as the small but fluctuating gauge range didn't sound right,saying that it should stay in and around the same spot after reaching operating temperature. By the way John, I also replaced the radiator & engine temperature sending units as I had spares,with the thermostat packaged as a 180 degree unit.

In short, my question is on 1980 LE's providing the gauge is good should the needle run just a touch to the right of the gauge center with little movement up ? and is substantially longer run time of the twin fans normal?

Thanks so much for your time and the continuing help and support to the members of the NAMGBR

Sincerely

Steve
Dear Steve,

The fluctuating and the higher temp may be caused by two things -- which is about all I can think of so early this morning, and so late after you wrote.

If the original thermostat was opening and closing, then the indicated temperature would rise and fall. Thermostats usually don't open and close with such regularity, but I have seen it happen. More likely there is a problem with the voltage stabilizer, sending an erratic voltage to the gauge on the dash; but since that problem has not occurred since you changed the thermostat, it must have been the t-stat after all.

If the timing in the engine is not correct, then the engine will produce a lot more heat. Double check with a dial back timing light -- set the timing at 32 BTDC at about 4000 rpm, vacuum disconnected.

By now you've probably solved the problem. Please let me know what you found!

John
GaugesJumping TachAs the Subject title indicates, my 1966 MGB has a mad jumping needle on the Tacho.

The car has been converted to neg earth and the tacho has been working fine before now.

Firstly, as I turn the ignition the needle jumps right up to the max rpm. The needle after running for 5 minutes slowly comes down, firstly indicating a minus reading, when you rev the car, the needle flicks backwards towards 0rpm.

Then after another 5 mins, it starts to read as it should. It's as though the polarity is self fixing, although as I said, it has worked fine before now.

A bloody gremlin has got in!

Have you seen or heard of such a thing before?
I wonder if you are using the standard 25D distributor, with points,
or, if you are using a more modern electronic ignition. Some of the
electronic ignitions cause odd readings on the tachometer.

If you are using points, I wonder if you, yourself, made the
internal changes in the tach, or if it was something someone did for you. I
would be pleased to forward some pictures showing the wiring changes inside
the unit. Those must have been made correctly or it wouldn't work at all,
but perhaps a piece of solder dripped onto some adjoining circuit board?

I've seen these RVI tachs do what you've seen, but only rarely. In
each of these situations I suggest that you send it to an instrument
rebuilder. The only one I know in England is John Marks at Tunbridge Wells.
GaugesSpeedo Calibration I received the differential on Friday; it looks good and I am sure it
will work as well as it looks. Thanks.
One of the phone conversations we had you were telling me about who to
send my speedo to so and the information they need to recalibrate it. If you
could email me with this information it would be a great help. Again thanks
it's been a pleasure doing business with you and your company.
We use two different companies for speedometer work: Nisonger
Instruments in Mamaroneck NY and Mo-MA in Albuquerque NM. They ask for the
necessary information in different ways:

The speedometer is calibrated in turns per mile. A very late MGB
uses 1000 turns per mile. This means that when the speedo cable has turned
1000 times, the odometer will have recorded one mile. It also means that if
the cable is turning at 1000 turns per minute, that the speedo will read 60
mph (one mile a minute).

Nisonger asks for the number of time the cable turns in a mile.
Here's how to calculate that number:

Lay out a course of either 1/100 or 2/100 of a mile. Now 1/100 of a
mile is 52.8 feet, or 52 feet, 10 5/8". Our course is double that, for the
longer the course, the more accurate the reading. You will need a degree
wheel, similar to the ones used for degreeing in a camshaft. You will need
three or four people - one to steer, one to count, and two to push the car
through the course. Wind a piece of mechanics wire to two locations on the
rear bumper and twist the wire tight, leaving a tail that nearly brushes
against the ground -- you'll use this to mark the start and stop of the car
through the course. We've always placed this on the rear bumper. Place the
speedo cable through the center of the degree wheel and fix a length of
mashing tape on the inner cable so it makes a "flag" of sorts. The pushers
now push the car to the start position (they cannot back up unless you then
push the car forward five or ten feet). Turn the degree wheel so that the
flag is at ZERO. The pushers begin pushing the car through the course, the
man on the steering wheel keeping a keen eye on the stopping point. No one
talks! The counter keeps counting the turns until finally the car comes to
rest. The counter then writes down the total number of turns and the
remainder in degrees. Let's say, for example, he gets 13 turns and 250
degrees. Don't trust one passage. We always do this three times in
succession. Say he gets 13 turns and 200 degrees on the next and 13 turns
260 on the last. Average those runs.
Add 250 to 200 to 260 to find 710 and divide that by three to get 237
degrees. Now, 237 is a fraction of a full turn, and is 237/360 or 0.658.
So, on the average, your cable has turned 13.658 turns over the course.
Multiply that by 100 to yield 1366 turns per mile. You will provide that
information to Bob at Nisonger and he will make your speedo register one
mile at 1366 turns (or very close). You MUST have YOUR tires on the car, as
this turns per mile figure is a function of the tire diameter, the rear axle
ratio, and he gearbox speedo gear ratio.

Mo-Ma wants you to place a mark on the rear wheel, push the car so
many turns, measure the diameter of the tire, and count the turns. You'll
have to speak directly to Mo-Ma to get their formula.

In the end, you will have a very accurate odometer and speedo!
GaugesOdometer and Speedometer ProblemsMy 1960 mga's speedo works but the odometer does not. Any suggestions before I take it out of the car? Could there be a cable issue? What do you charge to rebuild? If you do not offer that service who would you recommend?
The speedo cable drives the speedometer and the odometer. If the
speedo is working, then you know the cable is OK. Sometimes the pawl which
drives the ratcheting odometer gear falls off. If so, it will be loose in
the bottom of the speedometer housing. You can pretty easily disassemble
the workings from the can -- except for the glass which will be STUCK to the
rubber O rings, so be careful prying. If this little pawl is in place (or
not loose), then I'd suggest you send it to Nisonger Instruments in
Mamaroneck NY or to Margaret at Mo-Ma in Albuquerque NM for a rebuild. I
haven't looked, but repair information is probably up on Barney Gaylord's
MGAGURU.com site. Hope this helps.
GaugesMGB Temperature Gauge I have a 77 B. I have noted that the gauge says it is running very hot. The fans do not come on until the needle is about a needle width past the beginning of the H mark. (Tested at idle) The engine is at around 200 degrees. What might the problem be. Radiator appears good. Engine rebuilt about 1000 miles ago. Car starts and drives OK.
The cooling fans are designed to come on at a relatively high temp -- so that 200F is about right. What doesn't seem correct is the indication on the dash. I wonder if the gauge is reading correctly. To test the gauge and the voltage stabiliser, remove the GREEN/BLUE wire from the temp sensor, under the thermostat housing. Use a 12V test light, ground one end and push the icepick end into the spade terminal on the wire. Turn on the ignition and watch to see what happens. The light should illuminate but after 20 or 30 seconds, the bulb should to begin to wink on and off like a slow turn signal. This is the voltage stabilizer working. If the bulb doesn't wink, that shows that there is too much voltage getting through the system and the temp gauge will read high (and so does the gas gauge). If the test light does wink, then perhaps you have the wrong sending unit in the engine. Hope this helps a bit.
GaugesSpeedometerMy 1960 mga's speedo works but the odometer does not. Any
suggestions
before I take it out of the car? Could there be a cable issue?
What do you charge to rebuild? If you do not offer that service who would
you recommend?
The speedo cable drives the speedometer and the odometer.
If the speedo is working, then you know the cable is OK. Sometimes
the pawl which drives the ratcheting odometer gear falls off. If so,
it will be loose in the bottom of the speedometer housing. You can
pretty easily disassemble the workings from the can -- except for
the glass which will be STUCK to the rubber O rings, so be careful
prying. If this little pawl is in place (or not loose), then I'd
suggest you send it to Nisonger Instruments in Mamaroneck NY or to
Margaret at Mo-Ma in Albuquerque NM for a rebuild. I haven't looked,
but repair information is probably up on Barney Gaylord's
MGAGURU.com site. Hope this helps.
GaugesSpeedometer CalibrationI need to recalibrate my 52 MGTD speedometer now that I have installed a 5 speed transmission. Do you do this service? If not, can you recommend someone.The speedometer and odometer are calibrated by the number of turns per mile that the speedo cable makes. MG TD speedometers are calibrated at about 1500 turns per mile; MGAs at about 1400; Midgets about 1300; MGBs about 1200. Finally, in 1974, all MG speedometers were calibrated at 1000 turns per mile.



Whenever the tires, wheels, differential, or gearbox is changed, a complementary change must be made in the calibration of the speedometer to assure accuracy.



The odometer is gear driven; it either works or it does not. The speedometer is driven by springs and magnets and loses its accuracy over a period of time.



To calibrate the speedometer it is necessary to determine the speedo cable’s turns per mile. In practice, it is not necessary to traverse one mile; 1/100 of a mile will do just fine.



This is a three person job – one pushes, one steers, and the third counts turns of the cable.



Measure off 1/100 of a mile – that’s 52.80 feet, or 52 feet, 9 and 5/8 inches. Mark the beginning and end with a line.



Fix a wire to the back bumper, allowing it to drop vertically and just skim the ground.



Disconnect the speedo cable from the back of the speedo and pull it as far as possible from under the dash.



Fit the cable through the center of a timing wheel – a holed disc used to set up camshaft timing – showing 360 degrees in single degree increments.



Wrap a piece of masking tape around the inner cable, allowing a “flag” or extension of several inches.



Push the car to the start line (if you overrun the line, back up the car 10 feet and come at the line again, or the cable will have slack).



Rotate the timing disc until the flag points at zero degrees.



Push the car to the finish line.



Now the person counting will have counted the turns (for instance 13) plus a partial turn, say 194 degrees. Calculate the decimal equivalent of the partial turn:



194

---- = 0.538 = 0.54

360



Therefore the cable has turned 13.54 turns for 1/100 of a mile, or 1354 turns for a mile.



Make this measurement three times and average the trials!



Send your speedometer to Bob at Nisonger Instruments, Mamaroneck, New York with the turns per mile you have measured with your gearbox, your differential, your wheels, and your tires, and Bob will return to you a speedometer that will accurately indicate the mph with a working, accurate odometer.
GearboxGearboxey john... many years ago i pullled the engine and tranny to my moms 57a... I remember when i pulled the shifter module off... a spring and ball bearing shot out at me... which i retrieved.. if you can believe that... well... i just dropped in the engine and tranny... want to put the shifter module back on.... ken and kelvin at moss dont know where the spring and bearing go.. and i noticed there doesnt seeem to be one missing from the shifter....plunger etc.. where does this go.. hellllllppppppp thanks... btw.. i took this car apart in 1970...and have been drgging it around new jersey for alll these years... my initial goal was to have the car ready for my 40 yr reunion since thats when i took it apart... at the time i had a 62mkII1600ohc which i shoulda kept, and a '60a. My sister has a '60 in pretty good shape... my goal is to finish the job this spring... as a tribute to my mom... it was her car back in '66 when my sister blew the engine in '68. They kept after me to fix it up but i was always 'too busy'.. or broke. Well my dad passed 10 years ago.. and my mom passed on christmas day last year... so as a tribute to her.. i wanna finish her up...im in a rush... i have cancer and wanna finish the car before my ticket gets punched....thanks for any help you can give me...jm btw... my mother was Miss Michigan-1946 Miss America Pageant.. from New Baltimore.... lil fyi...so its go 'history'.....a lil local flavor... Jim, At the base of the gear shift lever, where it fits into a socket on the remote control assembly (the shifter module), there is a spring and ball. The ball fits into the rear of the socket first, then the spring, and then a split pin. The goal of this assy is to reduce the vibration of the gear lever. It is not necessary for shifting -- but the lever will feel tighter with it fitted than otherwise. Gosh -- I've had a 62 Mark II Deluxe since 1976 which I drive a LOT during the summer months. But my ownership doesn't hold a candle to yours. I appreciate your notes about your mother and father. Today is the third year anniversary of my late wife, Caroline's, death. Hope this helps a bit! John
GearboxLate Model Overdrive I'm getting ready to put my 69 engine back in and purchased a late model OD out of a rubber bumper driver. I didn't pay attention to the year, and after watching your video I need to recheck the switches. I purchased replacement switches from BPNW, as well as a new 'roller' throwout berring (a part I've never replaced before). I bought 2 switches - so my reverse lights will be sure to go on (lol). I'll have to fabricate a wireing harness for the OD unit, and that's why I was searching out videos and on line tips. I want to have the OD on the shifter rather than the column (I had a 77 and liked it). The whit board drawing was helpfull for understanding the circuit. I know I'm not the first to do this conversion, any racomendations on where to look for examples or advise before I confuse myself beyond all hope? THanks for your help. I appreciate you posting the videos, they are a great help for us amature gear heads. BTW - I'm in Sacramento CA and took the family on a route 66 road trip this summer and included Michigan, Ohio, and Indiana. You live in beautiful country! THanks again! Several comments here. The rubber bumper MGBs have a speedo that is calibrated at 1000 turns per mile. The 1968 - 1974 MGBs, chrome bumper, have a speedo that's calibrated at 1280 TPM. It's far easier to change speedos than it is to change the drive gears in the overdrive unit. Your speedo has a rounded chrome bezel; the later units have an angular bezel -- they are interchangeable, too. You can probably find a speedo on eBay or from Sportscar Craftsmen in Arvada, CO. Your 1969 already has an overdrive switch combined with the washer and wiper switch. The OD switch works fore and aft. When it's pulled aft, the YELLOW wire goes hot. This wire exits the loom at the junction of the main loom / rear loom / gearbox loom -- all at the rear of the right hand inner fender. You'll find it there in a Lucas two way female connector. You can use this wire, or not. To fit the more modern thumb switch on the gear lever, you'll need a modern gear lever, the cap and switch. (How can something used from 1977 through 1980 be termed "modern?") Run a lead from the GREEN terminal of the fusebox (or fuse that Yellow wire) to the 3-4 lockout switch. Run a wire from the lockout switch to the thumb switch. Run a wire from the thumb switch to the overdrive solenoid. Now, when you turn on the ignition, when the gear lever is in the 3rd or 4th gear gate, and when the switch is ON you'll have power to the solenoid. If this were me, I'd not fit the thumb switch and simply use the switch already on the column. Hope this helps! John
GearboxOverdrive Oil LeakI have an oil leak that seems to be coming from the overdrive solenoid wire grommet or solenoid plate gasket. Should there be oil in the solenoid housing or do I need to replace the O-rings to prevent oil entering? Kind regards, Didier from BelgiumDidier! Yes, change the three O rings at the top of the solenoid assembly. Also, inspect the 3/16" ball bearing and change that if it shoes any signs of wear. Sometimes, when the O rings fail, the overdrive will cycle on and off when the gearbox is in direct drive. J'ai travellez in Bruxelles pour huit semaines in 1966 pour le supermarche Delhaize "le Leon." Hope this helps!
GearboxOverdrive & SpeedometerJohn,

First off, thank you for the help on my wifes 79 Midget. The exhaust manifold was cracked, and the two mount nuts, bottom center, were loose, allowing exhaust gas into the intake. The carburetor required new needle. (old one flat on one side). It was converted to manual choke befor I got it. I had to take the choke apart to get the grit out. It can and will go back in wrong, allowing it to run fine at idle, and reving in the drive, but sputter and run like the proverbial dog. Car runs great now thank you.

My overdrive question is on the speedometer. The vehicle is a 1963/64, (not sure which year really) MGB Roadster. Body # GHN3L-23082, Engine # 18G-U-H-23156. The car was retro fitted with an overdrive unit. The gearbox still has the original 90 degree fitting for the cable. The speedometer is #1060. I have sent it in to be recalibrated. The company said according to their formula it shoud be right. It's NOT.......

My question is when overdrive is fitted as an afterthought, what else needs to be changed in order to get the right readings?

Your help as always is greatly appreciated.

Bill

BILL!!

Try this for 100% correct calibration:

Fit the speedo back into the dash and go out for a LONG drive on the expressway. Now you'll have to trust the government on this one!

Drive an exact miles, based on the mile markers -- the longer the better. Let's say you drive 82 miles. Now the odometer will indicate a certain number of miles, let's say, in this case, it reads 93.7. Take those two numbers: ACTUAL miles and INDICATED miles, then send the unit back to Bob at Nisonger Instruments at Mamaroneck, New York and he'll correct the gears and the speedo so that the speedo works in YOUR car!!

Hope this helps!
GearboxSpeedometer Drive GearIs it possible to remove speedometer drive gear on a 1980 MGB in the transmission with out removing the trans if so how?????

There are two gears in this assembly: the driving gear and the driven (or pinion) gear. The pinion gear is easily removed for inspection. However, the gear on the mainshaft cannot be removed without removing the gearbox from the car. It is possible to remove just the gearbox without the engine.

It is possible to check everything else in the system simply by dropping the 90 degree unit from the box, attaching the cable end to your electric drill, and running the drill BACKWARDS. If the speedo works, then there is a problem with the driving gear, the pinion gear, or the fit of the cable into the pinion gear. Once or twice I've seen the rear nut of the gearbox loose, allowing the driving gear to freewheel.

Hope this helps.
GearboxSynchro WearMy second question regards the wear of the synchros. The teeth on the brass rings of my synchros are fine, and so are the teeth on the gears. It's the teeth on the sliding hubs that are about half worn off. These are the parts that are listed at $400.00 apiece in Moss! Is there any service available that will remachine these as they do for other makes of cars? Or do you have any good used hubs available? Maybe I'm jumping the gun here. Will half worn teeth cause grinding? I don't have any driving time on this tranny so I don't know how it shifted. I'm building a Heritage shell from scratch, and trying to avoid problems before installation. Thank you.

John!

The synchro rings are steel and usually work very well until the rings on the inside wear down -- UNLESS the synchro ring bursts (which new ones do at a rate of about 1:100!). Look for cracks to either side of the "house" shaped dogs or ears. Don't worry about those engagement teeth on the sliding hubs -- they're SUPPOSED to look like that! If you're still horrified at their condition, and believe my fast answer incorrect, send a digital picture of the hubs to me and I'll confirm. But, it would be odd to have ALL FOUR hubs worn, and worn evenly!

Hope this helps!
GearboxTransmission Oil I have a '68 MGB that I have owned for the las 30 years. I have always used straight 30 wt oil in the transmission because this was recommended to me back in the days when BMC was still alive. Three years ago I rebuilt the engine and installed a later transmission (from a '76) with overdrive. It is approaching the time to chane the oil and I am reading that 20-50 wt is recommended from many sources, and indeed is the recommended viscosity in the original publications. My local MG experts still maintain that 30 wt is the best, and, indeed, I have used it all these years with no problems. What is your recommendation? I appreciate your time in answering this as I have puzzled over this for quite a while.

Thanks again,

Carl Gwyn

CARL!

My first answer is always "Any oil is better than no oil!" The difference between straight 30 and 20W/50 is very little, but the workshop manual DOES ask for engine oil -- which is 20W/50. We've removed automatic transmission oil, or worse, 90 weight. I'd just use the 20W/50 and change it every 12,000 miles or so.
GearboxEarly Overdrive Transmission Can you sell me an early overdrive transmission for '64 MGB? Or can you rebuild and convert mine to O/D and provide the factory original straight chrome shift rod?

Thanks!

Stuart MacMillan

Stuart!

The straight chrome shift rod is not the problem -- finding the overdrive IS! I would log onto www.mgcars.org.uk and advertise, advertise, advertise for one. Expect to pay upwards of $1000 for this used, unknown box. But, your box IS good, and can be used for parts for a rebuild. I do not have any gearboxes like this. I wish I did!
GearboxOverdrive, Electronic Ignition John, After reading more, do I have a ballast in the wiring? I read some notes about "a ballast in the wiring system before the coil". If so I believe I should have gotten a 6V reading. Also, if it makes a difference I took out the seatbelt cutout a long time ago, and I am getting fuel and I hear the fuel pump ticking occasionally.

Thanks again,
Steve Sharpe

John,

I am stumped. M 75 B will not start. It cranks strongly but does not fire. I have the Crane electronic ignition mod and an earlier distributor (about '72) but otherwise the electrical system is pretty much standard. A couple weeks ago I had this problem but at that time my son had left the ignition on all day after not being able to start it on a cold morning (inexperience I'm sure). He had drained the battery so I charged it up overnight and it still wouldn't fire. I thought I remembered that leaving the ignition on could fry the coil so I switched in a new Lucas (gold) coil. It started immediately, so it seemed that this solved it. We took it for a 2 hour roundtrip last week and it worked great, starting immediately several times. This weekend it wouldn't fire at all again. I checked spark at the plug and got nothing. I checked the HT spark from the coil to the block and got nothing. I checked battery voltage to ground at the battery and from the brown wire at the fusebox and got 12V each place. Following the Lucas Fault Diagnosis book I checked coil Primary circuit by going from the + terminal on the coil to ground with the "distributor contacts closed" (in this case the disk in the distributor is in position to that blocks the light, i.e. not on a lobe on the distributor cam) and got 7.5 V instead of 12V. At that point the Lucas book said this indicated a fault between the battery feed and the +terminal and to check the circuit back to the supply. Could you give any suggestions as to likely culprits to check? I have the wiring diagram but I am confused as to how this could happen.

Separate issue. Last year I rebuilt my LH overdrive at your February course and am going to install it in my 72 GT renovation project next month. I can't find my note but I believe you said that 1. the driveshaft and engine backplate should be okay as is. 2. The only thing I need to change on the car is the speedo drive. Is that correct and what new part should I get for that?

Thanks for any help you can give me on these. Hopefully I'll have both my 75 Roadster and the 72 GT at Cleveland. See you there.

Steve Sharpe

STEVE!

The overdrive first! The OD has either 1280 or 1000 gears for the speedometer. White gears are 1280; Red gears are 1000. Yet, if it doesn't work out, then you must only change the speedometer in the dash to the other (1280 or 1000) to make the odometer and speedometer read correctly. You do not need another drive shaft. Just a longer speedo cable.

About the ignition -- my guess is that there is a problem with the electronic ignition itself. The coil is powered with twin WHITE/GREEN wires. One of these comes from the starter motor and gives battery voltage only at startup (about 10 volts). The other comes from a resistor wire, in the loom, and provides a lower voltage to the ignition coil (usually 6-8 volts WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING, but can read lower or higher depending if the points are open or closed). The other side of the coil carries a twin WHITE/BLACK - one goes to the distributor, one goes to the tachometer. There is also a "ballast resistor" next to the coil which is now no longer needed -- this is powered by a WHITE and feeds a WHITE/BLUE. It would be very unusual to lose two coils so quickly together.

So, again, you check the power side of the coil and find enough to light up your test light. Then, check the back side of the coil (the negative side). Spin the engine over -- the light should flash on and off. If it stays OFF, then the points (whatever) are not opening. If it stays ON, then the points (whatever) are not closing. Wiggle all the wires associated with that electronic unit.

Hope this helps!
GearboxTransmissionJohn,

I have a problem with a 72 BGT with the Laycock O/D tranny.

The car is a 1972 MGBGT, 220,000 miles on the car; engine has about 9,000 miles since rebuild. The transmission was taken from a 1971 GT parts car showing 87,000 on the clock, and has done about 25,000 in its present venue.

The unit works very well, with crisp up and down shifts, no slippage either in or out of o/d. UNTIL..... Until the road speed reaches between 50-55 mph, at which point the unit downshifts out of o/d. No matter whether in 3rd or 4th, if the o/d is on, when the road speed reaches the "critical" point, the o/d shifts out.

I have checked the usual suspects: fluid level is full; no obvious external leaks; all electrical connections are sound and tight, and all the electrical components test "OK."

Could it be somewhere in the hydraulic operating system? The pump is the only o/d component who's operation would vary directly with road speed, the pump operating off the output shaft. Or possibly a bad check valve?

Frankly I'm at a loss as to where to begin. Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

Rick Morrison

RICK!

The same Rick Morrison who was treasurer of the MGCC NA experience?

The rule is that ALL overdrive problems can be fixed IN PLACE. So, I would first double check the fluid level -- use Castrol 20W/50 GTX and ensure the box is full.

If that's the case, then I would try driving again holding the gear lever as far to the RIGHT as possible. The O/D lockout switch closes when the gear lever is pushed right (3rd or 4th gear gates) but sometimes the switch is "just on the edge" of working.

If that makes no difference, then I would drain the box and do the following:

1. Remove the oil pressure relief valve, clean it and change the O rings;
2. Remove the solenoid, clean all the parts, change the three O rings;
3. Remove the oil pump (my suspect of your trouble), clean it, and ensure that the roller on the top of the plunger is not loose from the axle. Clean the pump, fit new O rings;
4. Clean the magnets in the base of the unit;
5. Use carb cleaner and compressed air and clear out ALL the passageways.
6. Reassemble.
Somewhere in here, Rick, lies your problem. Only once have I found the roller on the oil pump faulty. If you have further, specific questions, give me a call, M - F 1-2pm EST.
GearboxLubing OverdriveHi John,
Thanks for rebuilding the MGB O/D gearbox for us this winter. I'm finally getting around to putting it back in the car and would like to know if there's anything special we need to do to ensure the O/D unit gets lube. Does filling the gearbox at the standard location suffice? Should we put a quart of lube in and tip the gearbox up on it's tail so the lube flows into the O/D unit?
Thanks,
Bill Putnam
Madison, WI


Bill!
The main box and the overdrive box use the same sump, so all the oil you add to the gearbox will end up where it's supposed to! Add three quarts, allow it to seek its own level, then add more as necessary. Good luck!
GearboxSynchro GearboxHi John,
Thanks for the diagnosis, it looks like I've got some work to do this winter. I hear that the later model B 4 synchro gearbox is the best one and I'm wondering if I should try installing one of them to mate up to the B motor. I hear the later model B overdrive gearbox would be much more difficult to install. Do you think either would be a worthwile project.
Thanks, John

JOHN!

It is NOT a good idea to fit the all synchro box to the MGA. Not only doesn't it easily fit, but the gearbox mounts are all wrong, the speedo will read incorrectly, you'll have to rework the length of the driveshaft,
the gear lever will be placed rearwards -- Ycch! And the MGB all synchro overdrive box would even be worse!
Work with that original box!
GearboxRebuilding Transmission Dear JohnTwist,
I feel like a kid asking the master a stupid Question but does your book
contain a section that would show me and help me through a rebuild
of my transmission, or can you refer me to a good book. I was going to
have someone rebuild it but a friend who used to have a Mga like mine and
is
a mechanic said he would help me. Although I am not a mechanic
I feel the need to know how it works. I bought my 1962 Mga Mark II in
September
and with little spare time I have and since I am mainly a carpenter I am
slowly
bringing Lorelea from a good runner to a great car. I have already
rebuilt
the
carbs cleaned up a lot of the wiring tuned the car, rebuilt top , car
doors , new latches
new rails and many little things. I don't care if the car is a show car
cause I
love to drive it. It does need a paint job and new seats. Although I am
so
broke
and I now have two jobs I love my car more than anything. I am 31 now
and
have
the car of my dreams since I was a little kid. I have always been exposed
to Mgs
My dad has a 53TD which he had since the 50s. His car took him through
nine
years of school a wife and three kids and this was year round in
Wisconsin.
Well anyway love your site and would love to take a class one day.
Please inform me of anything that might help.

Thanks Kindly
Marek Stralkowski MAREK!

I believe that both the workshop manual and the exploded views in the Moss
catalogue will give you the information you need to rebuild the box.
You'll be best served with an air run to run off the rear nut. Also, be
certain to mark the center bearing carrier and gearcase in two places with
a sharp chisel (so you know the proper alignment when you go to put it back
together). Don't be too concerned with the end float of the laygear -- up
to 0.015" while a LOT is still OK. Hope this little bit helps!
GearboxOverdriveHello Mr. Twist,

Brandon here in Atlanta with the overdrive problem. It is FIXED!!!!!!
I also replaced all the o-rings in the overdrive unit as well as the clutch
sliding member. Now I am riding, finally.
Thank you sooooo much for your help and suggestions. Let me know where I
need to send the tip to. I know your time is very important and I would
like to repay you in some way. Well I have logged about 100 miles on the b
so far without too much trouble (my plugs fouled cause I think my carbs
were a little rich) I am going to go riding tonight to add to it.
Talk to ya later,

Brandon! Congratulations on the fix! Glad to know that all is well and
that the problem is fixed. I'll have my hands in FOUR OD boxes on this
Monday/Tuesday at our technical seminar. Wish ME luck! John Thank me
by joining the North American MGB Register -- find them through
www.mgcars.org.uk
GearboxOverdrive, Steering Wheel Feedback, Color Hey Again John,

Hope your seminar went good. This weekend I got to take my B on the road
a
little. I put about 100 miles on it driving at speed (about 70-80 on the
interstate). Motor and overdrive perfect. I got a lot of feed back
through
the steering wheel though. All my shocks are good with good compression
and
rebound damping. What do you think I need to replace up front to tighten
up
the front end? Around town the car is alright, but at highway speeds it
is
pretty bouncy and like I said the steering wheel is jerky-shaky. Good
almost new tires and balance too.
Also-when shifting into overdrive or out of overdrive, should I use the
clutch or anything? I just don't want to tear up the overdrive now that
I
finally have it right.
Oh yeah, is there an internet site or any place I can look to find
out
the original color of my MGB? I am going to paint her soon and want to
see
what color it should be.
Thanks a lot sir
Talk to ya later,
Brandon

Brandon!

Good news about your OD. No need to use the foot clutch unless engagement
or disengagement is especially fierce.
Send me a note with your year (again) and the color you BELIEVE is the
correct one -- look up under the dash where NO ONE repaints the car. OR,
send a note to Heritage in England for the adoption information.
Vibration through the wheel: ALL vibrations begin at the road wheels.
Well, once in a blue moon it's the driveshaft which gives a whole vehicle
vibration. SO: inspect the front wheels: Spin for weaving in and out;
Spin for concentricity - bobbing up and down; Spin and feel the tread
looking for flat spots or strange wear. Some of those "computer balancers"
show the wheel as perfectly balanced -- but you CANNOT balance an out of
round tire! It is not the wheel bearings, rack, steering U joint, etc etc.
Worn out parts help transmit the vibrations more easily, but ALL steering
wheel vibration begins at the front wheels
GearboxOD Transmission Cone Clutch, Mallory DistributorJohn Kuhar at Medina Motor Sports in Medina Ohio is working on my OD
tranny.
The lining surface on the OD has separated. Is there somewhere he can buy
this piece? Does it glue back on?

I am also looking for a Mallory Unilite Dist..... I've heard that
Mallory
has been bought by someone. Do you know where I can buy one immediately??
thanks Brian Stimson
John Kuhar at Medina Motor Sports in Medina Ohio is working on my OD
tranny.
The lining surface on the OD has separated. Is there somewhere he can buy
this piece? Does it glue back on?

I am also looking for a Mallory Unilite Dist..... I've heard that
Mallory
has been bought by someone. Do you know where I can buy one immediately??
thanks Brian Stimson

Brian! The cone clutch or "sliding member" is available both from Moss and
from Victoria British -- at about $300! It is also available from Overdrive
Repair Services in England (whose address, phone, and fax I do not have
handy).
The dual point distributor offers three advantages: price
(about $125 new); high dwell; control of the advance. Try Moss and
Victoria, again; you don't need the high dwell as our MGs never run out of
spark; and the advance is as easily achievable in a Lucas unit as a Mallory.
If John is plotting the "best" advance curve for power for your engine, then
get him, me, or someone to create that advance in a Lucas unit. There are
Lucas distributors without vacuum advances -- which offers the advantage of
no wobbling of the CB plate and possible point bounce. For that matter,
Lucas offers a "high grade" set of points with a stronger spring to avoid
point bounce. A normal set of points bounces at about 7,000rpm.
GearboxOut of Gear
Good morning! I just purchased a restored 1957 MGA. I have a technical
question
to ask. I drove the car 60 miles getting it home with no problems.
Saturday
while driving a friend for a test drive the car felt like it came out of
gear.
There was no noise prior to and a very slight noise after.

Investigation showed the drive shaft was turning but no motion. Suspect
rear
end.

What could be the possible cause of this malfunction? What should I look
for?

In 1959 I purchased a red 59 MGA which I drove and raced for 2 years. I
currently have an original 1959 ( Mostly Gone)A which I hope to restore
using
the 57 as ref. I may need your services in the future as I progress with
my
restoration.

Thanks in advance for your help and advice. Dick

Dick! You've snapped a half shaft -- or axle. You'll need to pull the
drums, then pull the axle shafts, then disconnect the driveshaft from the
diff (pig), then pull the pig. If you have wire wheels you'll need to half
a new shaft pressed onto your hub; if you have disc wheels, you can simply
purchase a new shaft. Ensure that all the broken bits of metal, shavings,
and swarf are cleaned from the differential case. This is not a common
problem with an MGA, but not unheard of.
GearboxRear ExtensionJohn,
Here a question from the Netherlands. I am rebuilding a 3 sync mgb gearbox. Cleaned the parts, changed all the bearings and the 3 and 4th synchro rings. I fitted the rear extension simply by refitting the rear flange and nut. Here comes the problem. After tighten the rear flange nut there is still 0.5- 1 mm distance bewteen the gearbox rearface and the rear extension. After tighten the nuts which holds the rear extension and maincasing of the gearbox there is my opinon much strain on the bearings on the third motion shaft. Is this normal. Has is something to do with the position of the bearing in the rear extension.

Thanks in advance,


Peter Brokke

Peter! The rear extension fixes the center bearing, tightly, so that there can be neither fore nor aft movement. When I assemble a gearbox, I tighten the rear extension to maincase bolts BEFORE I fix the rear flange -- but it really makes no difference in which order you perform the tasks. As long as the eight or so fixing bolts (and two nuts) are tight, and as long as the speed gears sit "exactly" above the laygear gears, then all is well.

Look over the enclosed MGA/MGB gearbox assembly guide I made up for our February classes.

Hope this helps!
GearboxRear Seal Leak, Overdrive GearboxGreetings, John, hope all is well...
I have two items.
I have a 71 'B"...FYI, have been to your place of business in Grand
Rapids several times(old and current locations) ..... A far as I'm
concerned, your the guru of the hobbby/sport..........I have had 3
'B's, two 76 cars, and my current 71......(I was tired of the rubber
bumber sceen, although my last 76 ws really quite nice......wire wheels,
blue......solid body, really a nice car etc.....anyway, I sold it for
an original, unrestored 71 chrome bumper car......It's not as nice as
the 76 from a curb apeal stant point, a few dents, a little rust, but
loads more fun to drive then the 76.......So I'm happy with the
change...(my kids arent though)..Anyway, when I acquired the car 2
years ago, the first thing I did was rebuid lthe enigne. I rebuillt the
engine on my 2nd 76 with great success, and as I have little experiece
with body work,( i figured i'd wait a few years and bring the car to you
for the body resto) the engine was the best place to start,as it
needed work........You supplied me with a new head for this rebuild, as
the existing one was cracked......While visiting your place to pick up
the new head, I told you about a slight grove on the rear of the
crank, where the rear seal mates ...You advised me the correct rework
procedure included pulling the crank and maching the surface smooth, and
fitting a sleeve...Well, I didnt take yr advise.......and the rear seal
leaks like a bitch....After I drive the car, I can place paint pan
under the engine and catch approx 1/.8 cp of oil..
I guess my question is, besides, pullling the crank, and having the
machine work done like you said....Is there a gasket material or
something else i can apply to the rear eagine plate, or elsewhere to
slow this leak????YES, I know i have to pull the engine,,,,....

And by the way, since I'm gonna have to pull the engine, this leads to
my next question.
.....
2. Overdrive T/M. I want an overdrive gearbox bad .....I know they
are hard to find...I have 3 questions..a-.do yo have any O/D boxes
available for sale...b .do you have any experiecice obtaining boxes
direct from England...If so, can you .recommend a source,etc...
c - I know an experienced T/M technician can convert a standard box to
an overdrive box...Do you do this as a service at "u" motors, or do you
not advise it.....Do you have any other recommendations regarding
obtaining an overdrive box?

Regards, Dan Baessler

DAN!

Well, you don't have to disassemble the engine! Just do this:
Remove the engine from the car -- you can more easily remove the engine
WITHOUT the gearbox. Remove the clutch, the flywheel, and the rear engine
bearing plate. Purchase the Chicago Rawhide Speedi Sleeve, part number 3500
(for 3.500 inches), and drive it onto the back end of the crank. You DO NOT
have to do any machining. (You have two options when rebuilding: grind
that surface smooth at the crankshaft shop; OR, fit a speedi sleeve -- you
don't have to do both). BUT -- you must fit the sleeve BACKWARDS from the
way the instructions read, or you'll never drive it on far enough. Make
sure you wrap some tape around the rear edge of the speedi sleeve BEFORE you
fit a NEW REAR SEAL, so you don't cut the seal. Remove the tape before the
rear plate is completely fastened. This should do the trick!

We have overdrive gearboxes for sale -- but we only sell them
rebuilt and guaranteed -- for about $1200. It will substitute directly for
you existing box -- you don't even have to get another drive shaft!

SAFETY FAST!
GearboxOverdrive ProblemsJohn,

I read with great interest your article on overdrive units. I am just getting my roadster back on the road after 8 years of storage, she is running well but I remember prior to storing that the overdrive was playing up.

Only switching in intermittently, but staying in if the gear stick was held to the right and rear. There was also a slight gearbox oil leak.

Which do you believe to be the problem, the oil level or the 3/4 switch?

If the latter do you have a detailed procedure to change this unit as I am unfamiliar with overdrive units?

Many thanks,

John Porrill

JOHN!

The 3/4 switch is the problem -- and it IS a problem. It's the least accessible electrical component in the MGB! So, remove the console and the plate underneath. Disconnect the exhaust at the center and rear hangers, then disconnect the gearbox cross member from the frame. Whump, the tail end of the gearbox falls onto a lateral frame member. Now, with some dexterity, you can grasp the 3/4 switch (front, left of the gear lever) with a pair of pliers and rotate it 1/132 turn -- the threads are so coarse that any rotation loosens it and you can then spin it out by hand. Remember that the position of the new switch is critical! Use a shim to keep it from remaining closed all the time. Grease it up before you fit it. And, most importantly, TEST the circuit with your test light BEFORE you re-install!

Hope this helps!
GearboxOverdrive Gearbox John, I am in the process of converting my 79 B to a Overdrive
gearbox, I have purchased a newer O/D gearbox, with the blue label, the
longer speedo cable and the switch and cover for the gearshift. Do I need
anything else and how do I go about wiring up the switch to the gearbox
etc.
the gear box came with all its wires attached.
This my E-Mail address at work, M-F 6:30-4:30 and my E-Mail address
at home is steveatstl@aol.com I am a active member of the St Louis MG club
and some of the members recently attended your Summer party which we
discussed in our last meeting.


Thanks for all you do,


Steve Plimmer

Steve!

A couple of notes, at long last. You can use your existing drive
shaft. You MUST test your lockout switch BEFORE installing the OD into the
car, as the 4th gear lockout switch is the least accessible electrical
component in the MGB! Make certain that the switch closes as the gear lever
enters the 4th gear gate. Earlier boxes worked in 3rd and 4th -- yours only
works in 4th. Be certain to FUSE the WHITE power wire to the OD, where it
connects to the main loom -- just use an "in-line" fuse which you can
purchase at NAPA.

Trace the wiring by hand or with a test light. The power wire goes
to the 4th gear switch. From the 4th gear switch the power travels to the
button on the gear lever. From the gear lever the power travels to the
solenoid. Again, make certain this is all working BEFORE you fit it!

The reverse switch is on the right hand side of the intermediate
housing and received the GREEN and GREEN/BROWN wires. The 4th gear switch
is on the left side of the remote control housing and carries a YELLOW wire,
probably with a tracer.

Hope this helps!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
GearboxOverdrive; O rings Sir,

Recently purchased a '70 MGB-GT (cheap, good body, OD and drove it home).
It
has the 'black label' Laycock OD.

Question:

How many O'rings are used in the OD solenoid and where do they fit?? Mine
currently has (1) on the pintle shaft. Moss, Haynes et al show 3 O'rings
that appear to be differing sizes.

The OD does not currently work. 4th gear switch is good, have 12 vdc to
solenoid (solenoid works good on bench test), gearbox full of oil etc,
stalk
switch OK.

Thanks in advance. Have owned (5) MG's over the years and have a pretty
good handle on wrenching them. Just trying to eliminate possibilities
before
pulling OD apart.
Thanks, Don '75 B rd and '70 GT

Don! I wrote a good article about the overdrive's for the North American
MGB Register. They printed it and may have it on their website -- find
NAMGBR through the www.mgcars.org.uk site. I used to have a copy of the
article, but a VIRUS wiped my Word files clean last December.

There are THREE O rings associated with the solenoid:
One on the piston; TWO on the top plate (between the housing and the
solenoid electric cylinder).

Call me on my technical hour 1-2pm EST M-F at the shop and I'll answer
your questions. 99% of all overdrive problems can be fixed from under the
car!!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist, Service Manager
Gearbox1974 MGB Roadster - Overdrive doesn't turn offHi John!
I don't know if you can shed any light on the problem I have but if
I
don't ask I'll never know.
I've got a 1974 MGB Roadster with Overdrive. About a year ago after
speeding down the motorway I found my overdrive would not disengage, this
gave the obvious problem of not being able to engage reverse. After the car
was switched off for about 20 minutes or so and cooled down the overdrive
disengaged and the car was fine (For about 5 minutes)
Since that time its always been the same, the car is fine for between
5-10 minutes the overdrive clicks in and out nicely but once everythings
warmed up it doesnt turn off, and I have to swich off the engine and let it
cool down.
The car is my only car and is used daily so I need to get it fixed as
the
performance is affected when this happens and parkings a bloody nightmare.
For no apparent reason everything seemed to work fine for a few weeks
during the summer and I hoped the car had chosen to do its own repair but
after a couple of weeks the problem returned and its still there today.
My local garage say they can replace the unit but this requires taking
the engine out and the total cost will be about £500 (about 750 dollars)
If you have any information on trying to repair this or what the fault
might be I would be eternally grateful,
Thanks
Troy (From the U.K.)

Troy!

I've attached an article I wrote about OD's -- perhaps that will be
of some assistance.

Nearly 99% of all OD problems can be cured by removing the
solenoid/filter/oil pressure relief valve from the underside of the unit and
cleaning everything thoroughly.

Your problem lies in the oil pressure relief valve (or, maybe the
solenoid). Order up ALL the O rings and the filter. Drain the main box and
then drop the filter assy (the rectangular plate with the eight 2BA screws)
and allow the unit to drain for several hours. This will keep your face and
hair free from oil as you work on the unit. Remove the solenoid -- PAY
ATTENTION to the 3/16" ball!! Clean everything with aerosol carb cleaner,
fit the new O rings, lightly oil everything, and refit the unit with a fresh
gasket.
Just as you cleaned the solenoid, clean the OP relief valve (3/4 AF
spanner or socket). The valve rarely drops out -- it needs a little pull
with a hooked scribe (be careful not to totally damage the filter screen).
Again, clean, fit the new O rings, and replace.

If I did this work in my shop, I'd probably charge two hours, or
$US120 plus the parts (another $US20).

Good luck!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
GearboxOverdrive wiring John, I am converting to an overdrive transmission, and working on the
wiring....On page 10 of your 1995 Tech Seminars book, you show a diagram as
to how it should be wired... My old - non overdrive - wiring harness has
two wires that connect to the 3-4 switch, and the backup/reverse switch
mounted on the transmission. What happens when I disconnect the two wires
going to my 3-4 switch, and replace them with the wires that continue on to
the overdrive solenoid. What do /did they go to, and do I still need them?


Richard!

You probably have this all sorted out by now! My computer was down
for a bit and I got soooo far behind!

You should have three wires going to the gearbox: a GREEN for the
Reverse Light Switch; a GREEN/BROWN coming from the Reverse Light (and then
to the rear loom); and the WHITE or WHITE/BROWN going to the 3/4 switch (or
just 4th switch in 77-). The other side of the 3/4 goes to the solenoid.

Hope this little bit helps at this late date.

John Twist
Gearbox1972 MGBGreetings John,
I saw the 'University Challenge' column in MG World & thought you may be
able to help me with a problem.
The car is a 1972 MGB. It has been laid up for several years while under
restoration. I have been running the engine regularly to keep it free,
letting it run up to operating temperature but have not been able to run
the drivetrain since the rear axle is out.
The clutch is very hard to depress & has been so for some time. I presume
the clutch disc may be rusted to the pressure plate. Would this account
for
the stiff pedal & if so is there a method of freeing it without removing
the engine & gearbox?
Thank you in advance,
Graham.

Graham!

Unless the clutch disc rusted to BOTH the pressure plate AND the
flywheel, I doubt that corrosion is the reason for a stiff clutch pedal.
But -- it's less expensive and less time consuming to do the following
first!

Get the car warmed up, nose down the driveway. Start the car in
gear -- 1st or 2nd. Oh, it will lurch and jump, but it'll start alright --
and you just drive it around the block, and around and around. Keep hitting
the clutch pedal and the throttle at the same time. This will shock the
clutch disc loose from the flywheel/pressure plate and allow it to
freewheel. This technique has ALWAYS worked for me except for ONE Midget
1500 about ten years ago -- so it WILL work for you!

If the clutch hose is plugged -- and THAT's the reason the pedal is
stiff, then there will be quite a lag before the pressure plate grabs the
disc, right after you release the clutch. With this problem, repeatedly
pushing on the pedal will push the slave piston out of the bore and jam the
clutch disengaged. You'll have to rebuild the master, slave, and replace
the faulty hose.

Hope this helps!

John
Gearboxstuck overdriveJohn , I'm sure you've heard this one before but I couldn't find any similar case in your on line archive .
I recently installed a rebuilt o/d trans ( supplied by another shop ) in a late MGB . It goes into o/d perfectly but won't come out . After checking all obvious hydralic components , I determined it was a mechanical problem . If I strike the brake ring with a mallet it drops into direct drive . If I go into first gear and bounce on the gas pedal it drops into direct drive .
I promptly removed the engine/trans for exploratory surgery . The clutch ( sliding member ) was suspect , so I replaced it . I also measured the free lenth of the springs . The ( shorter ) release springs were within spec . The ( longer ) engagement springs measured about .050" short . I added a .015" shim under each . I was going to check the pressure on my valve spring checker but assumed the 150 lbs. the factory manual called for was bogus .
Needless to say , after re-assembly I still have the same problem .
Any suggestions would be appreciated . Thanks , Alan


Alan!

We've had some overdrives in the past that were very sluggish. In one case, we kept reducing the viscosity of the oil -- I think we ended up with 10-40, something like that, and it would come out of overdrive.

My "rule" is that all overdrive problems can be solved with the unit still in the car. Why not try to fit new O rings to everything -- ESPECIALLY the solenoid (there are three there). I know that for a while, we received one size (the one that fits on the solenoid piston --- the MOST important one) from Moss that was TOO LARGE. This would tend to keep the OD ENGAGED. It could be the oil pressure relief valve, too -- but probably the solenoid.

Then, there's the chance that the bores have worn and the pistons become cocked -- but my experience is that most problems have common causes -- so we're back to the oversize O rings.

Let me know what you find.

Attached is my article about overdrives. Hope all this helps.

John
GearboxP or J2 Gearbox
Hi John - well done - your web site is very interesting.

I am currently searching for a P type or even a J2 gearbox to finish off a
MG special I am building. Just wondering if you know of one or even
someone
that may have one. All help greatly appreciated - Thanks

John Hazelden

John!

I do not have any contacts for early MG spares. Your best,
probably, is to contact the Octagon Car Club in England -- I'm on vacation
in NC and don't have all my addresses with me -- but I believe you'll find
the Octagon Club link from www.mgcars.org.uk

John

PS I've included a copy to Bill Tantau of the North American MMM
register -- he may have some information.

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
(616) 682 0800
www.universitymotorsltd.com
GearboxTransmission SwitchesHi John,

Thanks very much for your response RE: Loose Spigot/Pilot bushing.

My standard to OD transmission conversion is creating more questions;
specifically the big switches. . .

The old full-synchro gearbox had two switches: the reverse light switch
and another (smaller) switch which should be the seat belt warning
switch on my '72 MGB. (The seat belt switch never worked . . . I always
buckle up before pulling the choke and don't really care about this
one.)

The new OD gearbox (latest model) has accommodations for two switches:
the reverse light switch and the overdrive isolation switch. Moss Motors
references these switches with the same part # (140-470), but with the
two different descriptions. Seems to me these are the same critter, just
different applications and locations on the OD gearbox. My question:
"Which location is for which -- or does it matter?" My hunch is that the
reverse light switch goes to the right side of the gearbox, and the OD
Isolation one goes to the left. Can you confirm this?

(I also have installed a fuse carrier in the yellow wire near the
manual OD switch (the multi-function stalk switch on right-hand of the
steering column. This seemed a prudent guard against unplanned faults.
Comments?)


Humbly await your response. . . . . . Greg Soulsby. . . . . . Safety Fast!

Greg!

Many apologies for taking so long to respond!

The switch on the RH side of the intermediate gearcase is the
REVERSE light switch. That takes a GREEN and a GREEN/BROWN. The switch on
the top LH side of the remote control is the LOCKOUT switch. That takes the
YELLOW overdrive wire and the other spade is connected to the overdrive
solenoid.

Make certain that you shim both of these switches carefully before
fitting the gearbox. The reverse switch is easily removed/shimmed after
installation (but easier before), but the OD switch is the least accessible,
electrical switch in the vehicle, requiring you to DROP the gearbox to
replace it!

Hope this all helps at this late date.

John

GearboxClip Removal

Hi John.........I am replacing a lay shaft because there is some wear on the old one. Could you please advise me on how to remove the clip holding the needle bearings in place. Thanks John Orrell

John!

I know you've already completed this task, but this is the way I do it:

The original laygear bearings are superior to the replacement ones now offered -- they must be -- there are twice as many! But those pesky clips!!!

The clips are "one time use." To remove them, simply place your centre punch 1/3 way around the circumference from the end and smack it with your hammer. The end gets pushed away from the groove and is easily grasped with pliers and pulled away!

Do you have an MGA or MGB?

John

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
(616) 682 0800
www.universitymotorsltd.com
Gearbox1970 MGB Stuck in ReverseAny ideas why my 1970 MGB with the standard 4 speed is stuck in reverse gear? Backed the thing up about a quarter mile and can't budge the gear shift lever out of reverse. Replaced the layshaft, reverse gear shaft, and laygear bears about 14 years ago. Haven't had problems up to now other than it being stiff getting it out of reverse.

While backing up, my non-mechanical wife, the smart one in the family who doesn't claim an MG, said she heard something snap. I did not hear anything. Backed the thing home and there were no strange noises coming from the transmission.

I have a feeling that I am headed to the engine hoist. I tried eating a can of spinach, however I could move the shift lever.

Appreciate any suggestions you can make.

Rob Struble



Purchased a used transmission for 75 bucks and am the process of installing it right now. Don't know if it is a great one, a good one, or just an okay one. I do know that it shifts through 4 forward gears, which is good.

Opened up the reverse stuck transmission (inspection plate) but did not disassemble. Everything looked fine, including the backlash between the various gears - in other words, nothing was stuck or binding. I will autopsy the thing this winter when the snow is flying and the MG driving could be better. At that time I will drop you an email telling you what I find. I won't forget you cause I am going to have you install new throttle shafts on my SU's after MGB season is past.

Thanks for the reply.

Rob
GearboxRebuilding Transmissions Robert!

I remember you from years ago! Many apologies for my tardy
response.

I would simply fit NEW wiper blades -- there are refills out
there,
apparently, that you can make work, but at $15 per blade and only two
blades
(am I right?), your investment just won't be that much!

The gearbox drain plug would be my guess -- smear some RTV
silicone
gasket goo on the threads of the plug before refitting. Sure, tighten
the
exposed bolts as you can find them.

Nice to hear from you again!

John

John,

Thanks for the note! My 69 roadster has three wipers; ended up getting
new
arms and blades. Looks nice and works well. Surprised how the car
survived
the storage. Changed all fluids and a new tonneau cover and its running
well.

My big project will be o/d conversion. Looking for the best way to do it.
My non-o/d trans is still rock solid and shifts well. I refilled it with
20W-50 and no problems. I do all the work on my car and have rebuilt
transmissions, though not MG.

If I can find the o/d & mainshaft unit, am wondering aloud whether I
should
mate to my trans. More trouble than it would be worth?

Thanks for remembering me!

Robert

Robert!

You want to find a COMPLETE overdrive and gearbox unit. If you try
to piece it together, you'll invariably miss a part, plus it will be more
expensive. Rebuilding is not difficult -- you can even bring it to our
rebuild seminar in February.

John
GearboxGearbox Rebuild Information Hello,

I am going to be rebuilding my Midget's ribcase gearbox soon and
wondered if you have any technical articles available that would be of
help. Since Mighty Words is no longer in business, is there some other
way to purchase your articles? Does the technical manual you offer have
any relevant information for gearbox rebuilding?

Thank you,

Eddie Sheffield

Eddie!

I don't have a tech article about the webcase gbx, but I must give
you one tip -- REPLACE the pin in the 1/2 sliding hub. Make that pin from
an old needle bearing (hardened) -- if you cannot salvage the correct
diameter from your gearbox, let me know and I'll put one in an envelope --
then you have to hand fit it so it's "just" long enough. If the pin is too
long, you cannot select 2nd gear; if it's too short, then the box easily
jams into first. The existing pin will be too short. Of course, make
certain that the 1/2 sliding hub is assembled correctly or you'll not be
able to select 2nd. Oh, one more thing -- the centre bearing has a wider
inner race than outer race. Miss this important but subtle difference and
the it will fall out of gear.

Hope this little bit helps.

John
Gearbox3 Synchro conversion to 4 Synchro OD-MGB John,

I read your tech tips with interest. There is obviously little about MGBs
that
you have not seen!

I have been told that the post 1967 4 synchro gearbox is more robust than
the 3
synchro box with which my early 1967 MGBGT was fitted.

I have managed to get a 4 synchro box with overdrive, but the gear lever
comes
out in a different place (several inches back),
and I understand that the box may or may not fit in the narrower
transmission
tunnel. (without some help from a heavy hammer???)

What is your advice? Should I go through the hassle of converting the
gearbox
to fit the engine by fitting a later backplate, and remounting the old
starter
to match the old flywheel etc, or should I just keep looking for a 3
synchro
with overdrive if I want one?

Thanks

John

John!

I've just come upon your letter (below) and wonder if I answered it
already. Have you performed the work already?

My thoughts are: Don't do it -- because it corrupts the originality
of the car, AND, it doesn't fit very well.

If you want to fit it, you DO have to move the gearlever back about
four inches, fit up a driveshaft (get one re-made at your local truck repair
shop who makes drive shafts all the time), either drill a LARGE hole in the
bellhousing to clear the crash starter -- or -- find a flywheel, backing
plate, and pre-engaged starter motor from a 1968-1970, measure your speedo
cable turns as you'll have to have the speedo recalibrated.

Again, let me know what you've done!

John
GearboxJumping Third Gear

To: John Twist

Sir.

Prior, you sent me information on how to fix my XPAG low oil pressure problem. Thank you for your help; more about that later.

Problem. My third gear jumps into neutral unless I am accelerating. All the other gears work fine in my 1951 MGTD (Car # 6211). Although I could have the car worked on locally, my friend on Maui, Paul Pigue, who first suggested I bring my oil pressure problem to you, again suggests that I consult with you. From the symptoms above, how difficult and expensive a job would you guestimate it would be should I ship my gear box to you. Would you comment on that, the best way to ship it, with or without gear box oil, the turn around time, your shop rate, and any other comment you might want to make.

I notice that a merchant on e-bay has a gear gearbox and bell housing up for auction. $200.00 starts the bidding. I was tempted, but with only an eye ball inspection by him, I thought that would be buying too blindly. What do you think?

About my oil pressure problem. My wife bought me the rich man's fix from Moss Motors. I am now getting 60 lbs on the freeway. However, when my 20-50 weight oil gets hot, the indicated pressure still goes to zero. Since I can see oil spouting 2 to 3cm on the rocker arm shaft, as viewed through the oil filler hole, I am no longer panicked by the zero reading.

My major question to you today is about my jumping third gear. I am very appreciative for your help.

Sincerely,

JIM Deutch

Jim!

You can always send the gearbox to me, but you would want to send it in THREE boxes -- one with the bell housing, one with the remote control, and one with the gearbox. Our time to repair the bell housing (new bushings and shaft) is about one hour; the time on the remote control (bushings and new shaft) is about one hour; the time on the main box is about 10 hours. We charge $60/hour.

BUT! You may resolve your problem by simply tightening the castle nut at the rear gearbox flange. Remove the drive shaft from the gearbox flange, withdraw the split pin, use your 9/16" BSF socket (or whatever fits), and draw that nut up more tightly. If you leave the car in gear, 1st gear, and have your associate hold the engine from turning the with starting handle, you can do this job a little more easily.

If that doesn't work, get back in touch

John
GearboxJumping Third Gear Cont.Jim!

You can always send the gearbox to me, but you would want to send it in THREE boxes -- one with the bell housing, one with the remote control, and one with the gearbox. Our time to repair the bell housing (new bushings and shaft) is about one hour; the time on the remote control (bushings and new shaft) is about one hour; the time on the main box is about 10 hours. We charge $60/hour.

BUT! You may resolve your problem by simply tightening the castle nut at the rear gearbox flange. Remove the drive shaft from the gearbox flange, withdraw the split pin, use your 9/16" BSF socket (or whatever fits), and draw that nut up more tightly. If you leave the car in gear, 1st gear, and have your associate hold the engine from turning the with starting handle, you can do this job a little more easily.

If that doesn't work, get back in touch


John
John: It was so good of you to reply to my third gear jumping into neutral problem. I shaired your solution with Paul Pigue on Maui and he wrote to me the following. If you would reply to his letters I would be very appreciaative. The solution to my problem is getting more complicated than my experience can manage. However, you engineering types can have fun, and I'll watch and try to learn. Thank you for responding to this letter.
JIM Deutch




Jim,

Some thoughts on the jumping out of third gear:

Observed from the top, it does not appear that their is full engagement
of the gear teeth with the striking dog. In fact, with the shift rod locked
in placed and holding the striking dog against the wear on the fork , the
gear teeth protrude about .025". With an effective engagement face on the
3rd gear teeth of only about .160" this is a significant amount. Summing
the wear factors the "wrong "way (as apparently occurs on deceleration)
allows as much as a .045" protrusion/non engagement. ( .020" wear factor}
On the other hand, on 2nd gear, summing the wear the "wrong" way still
gives .006 over engagement while summing the wear the "right" way gives an
almost .042 over engagement. (tooth face to tooth face, not the protruding
face of 1st gear) Averaging this .036" wear factor still gives an over
engagement of approximately .024".
The gearbox worked before so I assume that new gears, selector forks
and shift rods would bring everything back into tolerance, but we would
still not have the same engagement on 3rd gear as on 2nd gear. The
measurements just do not add up.{?} Their problem seems to be both wear and
some sort of discrepancy in the selector shaft detents or the forks or
the gearbox itself. The original manual mentions some sort of discrepancy
as the reason they installed the circlip on the 3rd gear shift rod as well
as the extra locking ball in the striking dog in the later gearboxes.
Having more time than money can we try an experiment: Shim the
mainshaft .030" forward to increase the engagement of 3rd gear? this should
result in better (almost full) engagement of 3rd gear, while maintaining
full engagement of 2nd gear. I understand that we would lose .030"
engagement on 1st gear but that seems less significant than on the other
gears.(?) Also, when you talk to John Twist, ask about the proper way to
set up the 4th gear. It may seem like a stupid question but just what are
the tolerances with the gears and what exactly constitutes "full"
engagement. My assumptions is when the leading face of the sliding hub
teeth (which are beveled) is flush with the rear face of the gear teeth,
which are square.
Finally, I have had some fun thinking about this, but I don't really
know what I am doing. The gearbox is easy to work on once you have
figured out the problem,and simply buying new gears etc. would certainly fix
it, but what fun is that? The real fun is figuring out the "whats and whys"
of what is happening.
I would love to sit down with John Twist for a little while, or even
go to work in his shop for a few months just to finds out how much I don"t
really know. What a hoot that would be. Let me know what you think, or when
you run any of this past John, what he thinks.


Pau

GearboxConverting to an Overdrive Gearbox John,

I was reading your Tech Tips on the North American MGB Register and saw
where
you said you have several rebuilt overdrive gearboxes.

I am the new owner of a nice 64 MGB and am considering converting to an
overdrive gearbox. Do you have one available? Can you give me
some things I need to watch out for or consider before I dig into this?

Thanks,

Tom
Tom!

The original OD was fitted with a relay and a vacuum switch. These
really aren't necessary except for originality.
The three synchro overdrives are very hard to find. The only difference
between your box and an overdrive is: the mainshaft; the intermediate
housing; and the overdrive. So, you can use some of your guts in the three
synchro. If you find an overdrive at a swap meet or on the internet, be
assured that the gearbox will have the "common" faults (bad 2nd synchro, bad
1st gear). I would think you'd have to pay $500 for a "rebuildable" box.

John


GearboxStages of assembling the Transmission in MGBI have a 1968 MGB with synchro transmission. I am in the final
stages of
assembling the transmission, and have some questions:

I am trying to calculate the shim thickness between the front
cover and
input shaft bearing, and the wording and method used in the
factory manual
is confusing me. Maybe because I don't speak the King's English
all that
good. I'm at work now and don't have the exact specs in front of
me, but
In
simple terms, am I trying to create a gap between the bearing and
front
cover, or am I trying to put on a slight preload with the front
cover,
thereby bending the cover inwards with the studs?

If you read it yourself, you can see it's written to indicate
preload.
First you measure front cover cavity depth, then add in for the
compressed
gasket. Then measure bearing height. Then they tell you they want
you to
add
shims until the bearing height is more than the front cover cavity
depth!
Do you agree? Wouldn't that crack the front cover? Shouldn't
there be a
gap
instead?



My second question regards the wear of the synchros. The teeth on
the
brass
rings of my synchros are fine, and so are the teeth on the gears.
It's the
teeth on the sliding hubs that are about half worn off. These are
the
parts
that are listed at $400.00 apiece in Moss! Is there any service
available
that will remachine these as they do for other makes of cars? Or
do you
have any good used hubs available? Maybe I'm jumping the gun here.
Will
half
worn teeth cause grinding? I don't have any driving time on this
tranny so
I
don't know how it shifted. I'm building a Heritage shell from
scratch, and
trying to avoid problems before installation. Thank you.

John!

I usually simply replace the shims I removed - with this extra step.
I use a prick punch and a hammer, and put about 100 little tiny prick punch marks in the front cover on the annulus that meets the bearing.
This raises the metal. Then, hold the shims in place with grease, and fit the cover to
the front. I use the thinnest film of silicone front gasket, to prevent any buildup which could block an oil gallery.
I've read that section, too, and you DO want a preload -- but only a couple of thousandths.


John!

` The synchro rings are steel and usually work very well until
the rings
on the inside wear down -- UNLESS the synchro ring bursts (which new
ones do
at a rate of about 1:100!). Look for cracks to either side of the
"house"
shaped dogs or ears. Don't worry about those engagement teeth on
the
sliding hubs -- they're SUPPOSED to look like that! If you're still
horrified at their condition, and believe my fast answer incorrect,
send a
digital picture of the hubs to me and I'll confirm. But, it would
be odd to
have ALL FOUR hubs worn, and worn evenly!

Hope this helps!


Gearbox79 MGB Overdrive
Mr. Twist...........Sir, we have corresponded before regarding my 1979
MGB overdrive.
Your reply to me was dated May 8th 1998. Many thanks for your advise.
Since that date I have spent many hours under the car, tinkering with the
solonoid, wiring, switch, pump, etc.until I finally gave up and have been
running without overdrive ever since. I was stumped!
Then I heard about "British Auto Shop" just outside Portland, Oregon,
which is about 60 miles from my home. I left the car with the English
mechanic there and the following week he called and told me that all the
things that I had done were fine, but that the problom was deeper and he
would have to pull the engine to fix it.
I told him to do whatever was needed and two weeks later I picked up the
car and everything was working fine. I now have a working overdrive. The
price was agreeable also.....no complaints there.
However, he told me that he had put Hypoid 80W90 in the transmission, and
10-40 in the engine. This is contrary to what I have read in your
articles which call for Engine oil (20-50) in both engine and
transmission.
Please let me know if I should change back to the oil that I have always
used in the engine and transmission.
I have always used Castrol 20-50 in both.
Sincerely, Stuart
Stuart!

We have used 20W/50 Castrol GTX for at least 25 years. Only twice
have we had to use a lighter weight oil in the OD gearbox to get the OD to
stop working. BL did issue a service memorandum calling for 80/90, but that
was quickly rescinded. TRs and other cars use the heavier weight oil. I
simply follow the information in the workshop manual! Use 20W/50!

John

GearboxGears in 79 MGB
Dear John

I have a 1979 MGB that last couple of times I have had it out it would
shift great but than two or 3 times I would have to double clutch it to
get it into gear. I was wondering if you could give me some ideas as to
what the problem might be.

Thank you very much for your time

David!

Just offhand, it would seem that the clutch master cylinder is not
developing the pressure needed to disengage the clutch. So, your problem
might be low fluid in the MC (because there's a leak); it might be that the
MC needs a rebuild (rebuild both the master AND the slave); or, worse, it
might be that the clutch has disassembled and you need a new clutch.

Try all the hydraulics first!

John


GearboxThread size for Gearshift
John,
I'm trying to replace knob with ANCO replacement; however, I'm unsure of
thread size of gearshift. Any ideas?
Thank You,
Richard
Richard!

I'm certain that it's a 5/16 - 18 coarse American USS thread.

John
Gearbox70 MG Clutch ProblemsMy son and I recently bought a 1970 1275cc MG Midget. This Midget sat in garage for 15 years. Needless to say it needs a lot of tendering loving care. The restoration was going fine until we got to the clutch. The clutch reservoir was completely dry and the slave cylinder piston was frozen. We have since replaced all of the clutch hydraulics and we have bled the system. However, the clutch still will not disengage (gears grind). When the clutch petal is depressed the slave cylinder moves approx. 3/4", until I attached the push rod to the release lever. The push rod only moves the release lever approx. 1/16". Do you have any idea what the problem could be? Also, is normal to be able to push against the push rod and have it move back into the slave cylinder, even at the same time as the clutch pedal is being depressed. \

Robert
Robert!

I believe your problem lies in the hydraulic circuit. It may be that the rebuild didn't work on the master, or it may be that there is a slight air leak (allowing air to enter the circuit, but so small that fluid does not leak out!). The master cylinder is easily rebuilt in place. DO NOT hone it!! as that seems to expand the bore prohibiting the necessary pressure build-up. If the master cylinder leaks externally, it's bad. BUT, it can leak internally, too. If the slave leaks, it's bad; if the slave is bad, it leaks. Loosen and retighten all the hose and pipe connections.

Let me know what you find!

John
GearboxGearbox Oil LeakJohn,

I have a 1969 MGB with the original, nonoverdrive gearbox. My problem is that transmission oil leaks past the oil seal on the speedometer pinion gear shaft. I have replaced the oil seal several times, but to no avail. The pinion shaft appears to be in good condition with no visible damage, and the oil seal fit is good, but I cannot stop the leak. This is a particular problem since sources such as Moss Motors indicates that the speedometer pinion is an obsolete part. The right angle drive on the transmission has recently given up and I am suspecting it has plastic gears that have been ruined by the oil leakage. Have you run across this sort of thing before, and do you have any suggestions? Thanks so much for the service you provide to the MG hobby.

John
John!

Despite the fact that it's bathed in oil, the speedo pinion "never" leaks. That is to say, I simply cannot remember the last time I saw one leak! So, I would suggest that you change the housing altogether.

The 90 degree drive has steel gears but it's an unnecessary expence! Simply purchase an overdrive cable and fit it directly into the gearbox. Allow a LARGE radius loop for the cable as it swings around by the gearbox cross member.

Hope this helps!

John
GearboxGearbox in 66BJohn, As always thanks for the continued updates on your business and projects. I am from the chicago area and recently had an overdrive transmission installed in my 66 B. Unfortunately the overdrive will not ingage. I have checked all the obvious items from connections to the electrical. This was a rebuilt trans from Quantum Mechanics in Connecticut. Any insight you may have would be appreciated. Thanks Jim Dahlke



Jim! You placed a test light into the wire that powers the solenoid, turned on the ignition, placed the gearbox in 3rd or 4th, and turned on the OD switch and the light illuminated? It should.

Sometimes a gearbox will stick in OD (and you don't know, really, unless you try to back up and find that you cannot).

You've got plenty of Castrol 20W/50 GTX in the gearbox?

I'll be it's something simple!

John

Gearbox3 Syncro to 4 Synchro BoxJohn,
1. I read your tech tips with interest. There is obviously little about
MGBs
that
you have not seen!

I have been told that the post 1967 4 synchro gearbox is more robust
than
the 3
synchro box with which my early 1967 MGBGT was fitted.

I have managed to get a 4 synchro box with overdrive, but the gear lever
comes
out in a different place (several inches back),
and I understand that the box may or may not fit in the narrower
transmission
tunnel. (without some help from a heavy hammer???)

What is your advice? Should I go through the hassle of converting the
gearbox
to fit the engine by fitting a later backplate, and remounting the old
starter
to match the old flywheel etc, or should I just keep looking for a 3
synchro
with overdrive if I want one?



2. Thanks for your reply. It was later than my decision, but welcome all the
same.

In the end, I opted to fit the 4 synchro overdrive to the 1967 MGBGT
because everyone I spoke to said that driving without an overdrive is hard
on the ears, and 3 synchro O/D boxes are as rare as hen's teeth.

I changed the engine backplate to match the new box, and fitted a new
flywheel and starter to match, and when I fitted the unit up to the body,
I
found that I only had to cut off a small corner (less than 2 in.) to clear
the starter motor.

Other than that the unit fitted well, with no further mods (the prop shaft
is the same length as the original one from the 3 synchro non O/D box)
except for the need to move the gear lever several inches backwards, which
I did by lengthening hole in the tranmission tunnel, and then cutting the
existing gear lever cover plate, lengthening it and fitting new "nutserts"
to bolt it over the longer opening.

I "recalibrated" the speedo roughly by measuring the speed at 50mph
against
another car, and then resetting the pointer to read 50 mph at that
deflection. This does result in an offset error at other speeds, but it's
the best I can do at home.

The car now works well, with a dash mounted O/D switch as originally
fitted.

Thanks

John
John!

1. My thoughts are: Don't do it -- because it corrupts the
originality of the car, AND, it doesn't fit very well.

If you want to fit it, you DO have to move the gearlever back
about
four inches, fit up a driveshaft (get one re-made at your local truck
repair
shop who makes drive shafts all the time), either drill a LARGE hole in
the
bellhousing to clear the crash starter -- or -- find a flywheel, backing
plate, and pre-engaged starter motor from a 1968-1970, measure your speedo
cable turns as you'll have to have the speedo recalibrated.

2. We've just refitted an all synchro box to an MGB/GT that came into
the shop with one. I'm glad to know that your upgrade was successful.

John
GearboxTransmission on 67BJohn,
Some time ago I rebuilt a 67 MGB transmission. I replaced the lay shaft and bearings. Everything else looked to be in good shape. Occasionally, when down shifting from fourth while slowing to a stop it fails to shift. After "jiggling" the shift lever for a while it shifts and returns to normal operation. Could you give me a hint as to what may be wrong?

Thanks,
John
John!

It could be that the lockout assy -- that fork that keeps you in one gear -- is really rough on one of the surfaces.

I cannot believe that you can fix it without removing the box -- although, quite frankly, I'd wait and see if it "cures" itself.

John
GearboxReplacing OverdriveJohn,
I am replacing rebuilding an overdrive to the best of my ability before reinstalling it in my 73 mgb. I have installed all o-rings except the ones that go in the operating pistons (plungers). I'm a little nervous about doing this. Can you please give me a little encouragement, advice. And what else to look for while inside the unit. Thanks in advance for your help.
Just grasp the pistons with pliers and PULL and "pop," out they come. Be careful refitting so as not to damage the O rings -- I always use some grease in re-assembly.

John


GearboxOverdrive TransmissionJohn,
I have a 1967 MGB Roadster. I would like to put an overdrive transmission in it but because of the 4spd syncro would prefer a "68 rather than the '67. Will the "68 overdrive fit and hook up ok? Is there any modification necessary? I ask because I have never undertaken anything like this before. Since I have never done anything like this before would I just be better off taking it to a shop and have them install it? Any info you might be able to provide would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
Bob!

I am always concerned with originality, so I would suggest that you find the three synchro overdrive. They are very rare, and very expensive.

Your other two options are: fitting the all synchro OD, which moves the gear lever rearwards by several inches and requires a change in the speedometer/odometer to ensure accuracy; or, fitting the Ford five speed gearbox offered by Pierce Manifolds. That five speed unit is really pretty nice, although from the originality standpoint..... well..... I do believe that the four synch OD and the five speed conversion will end up costing you about the same (in the neighborhood of $2000). Either job you can do yourself. If you choose the four synchro OD, write back for some more fitting instructions.

For my shop to fit either of these gearboxes, it would be about ten hours ($750) plus a new clutch (another $150 or so), which is in addition to the price you pay for the OD or the five speed.

Hope this helps!

John
GearboxMGB Overdrive TransmissionHello,
I have acquired an MGB overdrive transmission. Is there a way to test the overdrive out of the car to see if it needs to be rebuilt or not. I've had the gears checked out and they are all in serviceable condition and the solenoid clicks when 12 volt electricity is applied to it.
Regards,
Adam
Adam!

There are two types of that MGB overdrive, the three synchro and the four synchro. And then, there are two types of the four synchro box -- the top fill (1968-1974) and the side fill (1974 1/2 - 1980). As I don't know the unit you have, I can only address the larger questions.

If the gearbox is a three synchro, then YES, you should take it apart for a rebuild, as nearly all three synchro gearboxes are faulty. You would want to rebuild the overdrive at the same time. The "standard" rebuild for the main box would be six hours of labour; and four for the overdrive. Parts for the main box are easily $300, but you have to be careful, for there are incorrectly sized and faulty parts on the market.

If the gearbox is an all synchro, then the box is probably in excellent condition (they usually are!). The earlier models require a 1280 speedo; the later models a 1000 speedo.

Good luck!

John

if I can be of any assistance through my shop, please let me know.

GearboxOverdrive UnitJohn,
I have an 80 MGB with overdrive. Recently I am experiencing slipping in reverse. This only occurs after being driven and not when first started (cold). Is this an overdrive unit issue, main transmission issue, or both? Any repair suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Tom
Tom!

You are experiencing a problem with the overdrive unit, not the main gearbox. The fault lies in a worn cone clutch, what is properly called the "sliding member." A renewed one of these from Moss or Victoria will cost around $300 I think -- but it's the disassembly that's going to be the hard part!

There are two locking devices between the gearbox mainshaft and the overdrive output flange. The first is this cone clutch; the second is the one-way clutch. The one way clutch will allow the driveshaft to move faster than the mainshaft, but not slower. The one way clutch does not work in reverse.

Expect to pay a shop nearly $800 or so to get the engine/gearbox in and out of the car and fit a clutch. Then, add to that another four hours ($300) for the labor of going through the OD unit, plus the parts. An expensive repair!

Hope this helps!

John


GearboxMGB Overdrive TransmissionHello,
I have acquired an MGB overdrive transmission. Is there a way to test the overdrive out of the car to see if it needs to be rebuilt or not. I've had the gears checked out and they are all in serviceable condition and the solenoid clicks when 12 volt electricity is applied to it.
Regards,
Adam
Adam!

There are two types of that MGB overdrive, the three synchro and the four synchro. And then, there are two types of the four synchro box -- the top fill (1968-1974) and the side fill (1974 1/2 - 1980). As I don't know the unit you have, I can only address the larger questions.

If the gearbox is a three synchro, then YES, you should take it apart for a rebuild, as nearly all three synchro gearboxes are faulty. You would want to rebuild the overdrive at the same time. The "standard" rebuild for the main box would be six hours of labour; and four for the overdrive. Parts for the main box are easily $300, but you have to be careful, for there are incorrectly sized and faulty parts on the market.

If the gearbox is an all synchro, then the box is probably in excellent condition (they usually are!). The earlier models require a 1280 speedo; the later models a 1000 speedo.

Good luck!

John
GearboxTD GearboxJohn,
I rebuilt the gearbox on my TD and now that I'm ready to drop it in, I'm having trouble inserting the new Moss pilot bushing into the crank. (It's too tight.)

I don't have access to a machine shop. Do you recommend sanding it down or is there another way I haven't considered?

Cary
Cary!

The spigot bushing or pilot bush fits into the back of the crank with quite an interference fit. I usually drive it in with a deep socket on a 8" long 3/8 extension. The socket should fit squarely on the lip of the bushing. You'll note that one end of the bushing is tapered. That is the end that faces the rear of the engine -- the end you see after it's driven into place.

If you lip the bushing and it fits too snugly around the first motion shaft, then the bushing will scream when you depress the clutch when the engine is cold. This problem fades with time --but it's quite an annoying "eeeeeee" in the meantime.

On the other hand, some light sanding of the leading outside diameter of the bushing probably would hurt anything.

I hope I've answered your question. If you want to talk about it, call me during tech hour.

John
GearboxOverdrive- oil pressure relief valveJohn,

I purchased a well maintained '77 MGB w/ overdrive not long ago, and undertook a complete fluid swap. With Haynes book in hand, I changed the motor, rear axle, and trans oils, then refilled each (ended up making my own rear axle plug tool...can't find 'em!)

My issue lies with the OD; put simply, I messed up. What I thought was the OD drain plug...wasn't. When I remove a drain plug, I usually crawl out from under the car while the fluid drains off. So, I didn't see the OP relief valve assembly fall into my drain pan. I was pouring the old oil into a recycling drum and heard a thump on the screen; it was the valve part with the screen and an inner piece which was cut like a bearing. Nothing else came out, so I assumed that was it. After finding out what it was, I reinstalled the piece as I found it. Now, the overdrive no longer engages. (If I don't try to engage OD in the meantime, will I be fine just driving with regular 4 speed?)

I removed it again and checked inside the hole; found nothing else inside. I suspect the worst...that I've lost the rest of the assembly and don't have OD until I buy a new one. Can you shed some light onto my dilemma please? Any advice you could offer, particularly reassembly instructions, would be most appreciated. Thanks!

Josh
Josh!

The oil pressure relief valve in the OD is comprised of several parts:

The top piece is a low pressure valve
Beneath that is a very stiff spring
Beneath that is the main OP valve -- a cylinder with three diameters
Beneath that is the housing into which the OP valve fits
Surrounding that housing is a screen of very find mesh
And fitting around the housing, spring, valve, and low pressure valve is a screen about 3/4" in diameter and 1 1/2" long.

All these parts are steel, therefore magnetic, so with time, you might be able to drag your fixed magnet along the bottom of your oil barrel and find the parts.

Without this valve the OD cannot develop pressure to move the cone clutch. It will, however, work all day long in 4th just fine!

John
GearboxNoisy GearboxI have a '53 TD with transmission problems. It has rattled since I bought it 20 years ago.
I am thinking of replacing the tranny and I understand that it is possible to replace it with one from an MGA or MGB and get to higher speeds. Can you comment on the advisability of this and where to buy one?

Cliff

Cliff!

You have several options: rebuild your gearbox -- and that could cost $2000 easily; rebuild your remote control -- that's about $200; swap your differential to a lower ratio -- that's about $1200; change the gearbox over to a Japanese or Ford box. I'm not certain about the Japanese boxes or their availability. I do know that the Ford Sierra gearboxes are often noisy, but they do have that 5th gear.


John
GearboxOverdrive DisengagingI had my gearbox and overdrive rebuilt but am experiencing a problem after the unit warms up. applying power on an incline causes the overdrive to disengage however power to the solenoid remains on( attached a test light to check) easing momentarily off the power will cause the overdrive to re engage. this pattern repeats itself as i continue to drive. Any ideas?

Ken
Ken

I believe that the problem is a worn clutch -- either that or not enough hydraulic pressure. It could be that the oil pump is not operating well enough or that the oil pressure relief valve is blowing off too soon. Best case, you take apart what you can from the bottom, clean it out, check the spring length, and put it all back together and it works. Worst case, you have to take the engine/OD out of the car.

Let me know what you find!

John
GearboxFinding an Overdrive TransmissionI'm having the hardest time finding a good overdrive transmission for a 1974 MGB roadster. They're all over England, but shipping is very expensive, and
there's none in the U.S. to be had for less than $800-1000 and that's not rebuilt at all.

Do you guys ever sell good, realiable and/or rebuilt overdrive transmissions? If so, let me know.


Best Regards,
Drew
Drew!

Keep watching eBay and your local / national club newsletters. I just talked to a guy who purchased one at the Chicagoland swap meet for $350. Just keep looking! Moss sells new ones for about $2500 I think. Those used ones are out there! Next option: buy an MGB with overdrive, swap it out, clean up the car, and sell the car without the overdrive. With luck, the whole project will zero out!

John
GearboxShifting ProblemHi John!

I have encountered a shifting issue with my 1973 MGB. When I shift between 2nd and 3rd, I feel a little gear rub on the way up to 3rd. I'm fearful of causing
damage to the car, so I'm not driving it right now. What can you suggest?

Thanks!
Thom
Thom!

If you can engage reverse without grinding, then we know that the clutch hydraulics are OK. If the gearchange is clicky or grinds, especially changing down from 4th to 3rd, then we know that the third speed baulk ring has failed. Continuing to drive with a faulty synchro won't cost you any more than fixing the problem now -- and fixing it is only about $2000. So, for that, you can shift carefully! If the clutch hydraulics are faulty, well, that's a different problem and you should fix that immediately.

John
GearboxFirst Gear AssemblyI am looking for a 74 MG Midget 1275 first gear assembly. Any ideas?

Jim
Moss Motors? mossmotors.com
Victoria British?
The Winner's Circle, Rocky River? OH
Moss Europe
A-1 Gears, Canvey Island, England

Hope this helps

John
GearboxOver Drive- Sticks OnHi John,
are you in America?! I have a 1978 MGB Roadster (UK)(90,000 genuine miles)with a Laycock Overdrive which works in 3rd and 4th. It has an overdrive problem:- it gets stuck on. It works fine when I first set off and if I continue to click it in and out every 10 seconds or so it still works fine but if I leave it in for any length of time it sticks on. I've tried changing the solenoid o rings and the oil (20/50) but it makes no difference. Once I stop the car it takes about 30 minutes for the o/d
clutch to come out by itself. If I work at it when driving by continually flicking the switch every few seconds I can extend the time that the overdrive can remain in and then come out but when I do this and leave the overdrive engaged for several minutes when I switch it out it can take up to 30 seconds to kick out. The next time I use the car it seems as bad. I haven't used the car very much over the past two years and I wonder if
this problem is because of lack of use and it will gradually get better? It doesn't seem to me to be an electrical fault and I doubt it is hydraulic (why would it work at all if it was?) It seems more like the clutch is getting stuck on. Do you know what the clutch looks like? Does it have friction material which might be worn out? Can it get warped (it goes in and out smoothly when its working)? Could I try another type of oil? Is there anything else it might be? I don't think the problem is too far from being fixed as its not as if the overdrive is not working at all or is always engaged but I want to get it sorted before I try to drive it in reverse...

Incidentally your other comments about overdrive faults are absolutely spot on! Some years ago the cintred (how do you spell that word?!) bronze thrust washer broke into pieces which I found in the o/d sump. I replaced it with
a copper one when the gearbox clutch needed changed. The solenoid cable took a dead short on the body of the car at the gear lever and set the main loom on fire. It must carry quite a current. I've replaced the loom but it
hadn't occurred to me to fit a fuse. Great idea, I'll do that very soon. You mention yellow and white cables, I wonder what the colour is for me? Is it the live feed for the solenoid? I'll try to find it. What should the
fuse rating be?

Lots of questions!

Many thanks,

David
David!

Yes, I'm in sunny Grand Rapids, Michigan.

The OD can become stuck for two reasons -- failure to purge the oil pressure -- and failure of the springs to push the cone clutch from the annulus. You can fix the first problem, sometimes, from underneath.

Remove the oil pressure relief valve (3/4" bolt), and pull the assy out with a small, blunt hook or "L". Clean all the pieces thoroughly. You might as well remove the solenoid and clean that again, too. While both are removed, clean out both housings (in the OD housing) with spray carb cleaner.

Very often a lighter weight oil will allow the OD to return to direct drive more quickly. We have one that we had to take down to 5W/20 to make it work correctly.

There is a hole at the top of the relief valve through which the oil vents. I believe it's this hole, when blocked or plugged (too much gasket goo during a rebuild) that prevents the OD from relieving the pressure.

Hope some of this is helpful.

Thanks for the kind notes.

John
GearboxGearbox Noise, TDJohn,

How can I determine if my transmission rattle ( 53 TD) is the remote shifter mechanism or not?

Cliff
Cliff!

Some say that the noise transmitted through the gearlever is engine vibration; some say it's the forks surrounding the sliding hubs; some say it's loose selector shafts (that hold the forks). If the remote control has freeplay (the long shaft moves up when you press up against it, then it needs rebuilding. Will it eliminate the noise? I cannot say with certainty. I wish I could!

John
GearboxOverdrive GearboxJohn,


I have a 1970 MGB and would like to upgrade it to overdrive. The mechanic I use recommends I find a complete transmission with the overdrive unit to replace my original transmission. Is this necessary? Can I just purchase an overdrive gearbox and have it installed on my existing transmission? Your thoughts would be appreciated.


Thanks

Larry
Larry,

While the main box of the standard and overdrive gearboxes use the same components, the length of the mainshaft is considerably different. It is impossible to just "fit" an overdrive to the back of a standard gearbox. You need the whole unit.

Call with more questions!

John
GearboxMGB OverdriveJohn,

Firstly a big thank you for making yourself so available for questions, it is much appreciated. My question is in relation to a rebuild of my overdrive unit after a spectacular failure of 2 of the laygear bearings - sent metal flakes everywhere!

The overdrive has been stripped down and cleaned and I am preparing to replace all bearings (ball type) and o-rings /gaskets, the needle bearing has been cleaned and appears serviceable. I have also examined the uni-directional roller bearing set in the clutch and cannot see any evidence of pitting etc. I also cannot see any evidence of pitting on the outer race. Is it advisable to get these changed anyway and if so how difficult a job is it to remove the outer race? The clutch material is in good shape and is not showing any undue signs of wear. Is there anything else that you think I should look at?

Thanks for your time.

Chris
Chris,

It may have been the laygear bearings - OR - it may have been a soft
layshaft. But CERTAIN to drag a good quality file across the center of the
new layshaft to ensure that it is harder than the file!! Also, some of the
layshafts still come through too long -- ensure that the length is correct!

But to your questions, I'm sure you'll be OK if you simply clean out
everything. I've never removed the outer race of the one-way clutch but
have scraped the grooves with a dentist tool to extract the flaky metal.

Good luck!

John
GearboxMGB Overdrive

I am intending to install an electric overdrive in my 1963 B. I do not want to risk installing a worn / used device.

Where do you suggest I purchase one?

Is there anything unusual that I should be aware of before I begin?



Len

Len,

The addition of the overdrive is a wonderful thing! You know that you'll have to change the length of the drive shaft. You know that you'll have to change the speedo as the turns per mile change between the regular box and the overdrive. There was a relay and vacuum switch associated with the original installation. Personally, I believe that the switch and relay are overkill -- you don't really need it. Make sure you fuse the overdrive right at the switch so there is NO chance of a dead short.

As for the source of a good, rebuilt unit? I have no suggestions other than watching and waiting (which you've already done, I'm sure). That three synchro box is always faulty -- either the first gear teeth or the second gear synchronizer -- so I would plan to rebuild the entire gearbox when you get one.

John
Gearbox79 MGB Pops Out of Third GearJohn,
Recently finished a restoration of a 79 MGB in which I had the transmission out of the car. When driving to diagnose a blown head gasket before the restoration, I don't remember it ever popping out of gear but now it has a definite tendency to do so in third gear especially when downshifting into a stop light and occassionaly when accelerating in 3rd. This appears to be more prominent when first starting to drive it, becoming less frequent as the car is driven. Holding pressure to keep it in gear works but is not how I like to have my car operate. I don't have this problem in any of the other gears.
I'm not positive but suspect it had gear oil in the transmission when I got the car, I'm thinking I refilled with 30W oil (I see that you recommend 20/50W Castrol). Can you help with a diagnosis and recommendation?


Bruce
Bruce,

The most common cause of this problem is an overly tightly fitted gear lever boot. No kidding! To see if this is the cause, remove the four screws that hold the gear lever gaiter ring in place, remove the screw at the back of the console, then lift the console and pull out the gear lever gaiter. Now go drive around and see if the problem is still there. If it is (and it could be - but rarely) there are some fixes you can do from under the bonnet.

Let me know!

BTW, the proper stacking of all those pieces is: Gear lever boot, console, trim ring.


John
GearboxMGB OverdriveHallo Mr. John Twist,

A few days ago I asked you a question about my O/D. My O/D go's all the time on-out,on-out in third gear (and only in third gear),she works perfect in fourth gear.After a testdrive this morning I found this : when I push the gearstick to the right side (and I keep hem fast overdear) the O/D works well. Can I do somethings about this ?
The MGB is 1972/1973 with a laycock O/D

Thank you in advance

Etienne (from Belgium-Europe)
Dear Etienne,

The problem you have is the 3-4 lockout switch. This switch is either faulty or mispositioned, or both. My suggestion is to purchase a new switch (it is the same as the reverse light switch), and fit it. But before bringing the gearbox back into place, test that switch 20 times! to ensure that it is working correctly.

That 3-4 lockout switch is located on the front left of the remote control extension on the gearbox. It is the least accessible electrical component in the MGB. To get to it you've got to remove the console and the elliptical plate around the gear lever. Then you must drop the tail end of the gearbox. Remove the driveshaft and loosen the exhaust at the center and rear of the car. Then remove the four bolts that hold the cross member to the frame. The gearbox will fall several inches (nearly 10cm) down, allowing you to reach in, loosen the old switch and fit the new switch. Use lots of grease when fitting the new switch.

Hope this helps!

John
GearboxMGA ClutchMy 58 mga has clutch judder. Not much in reverse but in first gear after driving for 30 minutes. After driving for an hour or so, the oil from the rear crank seal is the size of a quarter on the ground. I don't know is the judder is from oil or from a bad clutch or a badly surface flywheel. The clutch does not slip once engaged.

Do you think the oil is causing the problem?

I would hate to resurface the fly wheel and change the clutch and have the same thing happen again!
Your oil leak is minimal, compared to all the other MGAs, so I would not ascribe your clutch shudder to oil. Nor would I think it was a roughed up flywheel. In nearly all situations the problem is a faulty clutch disc. There are six springs that cushion the gearbox from the flywheel -- and once those have collapsed or their housings elongated, shuddering results. Be sure to fit an AP clutch (the old Borg and Beck). If you hire a shop to do this work, it would normally cost around $1200 including some mounts, gaskets, etc.
GearboxMGB Overdrive and Reverse Failure This may be strange getting asked a question from so far away.. Sydney , AUSTRALIA, but I feel you would be the best person to ask as I purchased an American MGB LE and imported back to Australia and converted back to right hand drive.. This was a Californian car..( Los Angeles )

I am not 100% happy with the answers I am getting here as to the problem I am experiencing with the overdrive on my car as most B's here are 3rd and 4th gears whereas mine is only 4th gear...

I purchased the car 20 years ago at 105,000 miles and is now 116,000 miles.. AT 101,000 The car had an engine short block replacement and the clutch was renewed.

Once about three years ago after a long and fast run I experienced the problem first time and has not appeard again till recently, when this happens almost all the time now..

The problem is that when the car is cold the overdrive behaves quite normal, but when the car has warmed up after 10 - 15 minutes I cant engage reverse gear..
the gear will shitf into gear but the clutch wont engage.. I can turn the engine off and come back a few minutes and all is fine, the reverse gear engages.. the other problem is that I also the overdrive unit sometimes wont engage in top gear.. this is spasmotic.. something that happens very occasionally is that when accellerating hard in 1st or 2nd the clutch appears to slip for a second or two.. another thing that may be related or not is that when coming down a hill in thrd gear the clutch seams to have trouble engaging.. now all this happens when the engine is hot and whether engaged in overdrive or not...

When cold and in any gear the normal clutch checks out, by not slipping and will stall the engine..

I have just drained the gearbox and cleaned the filters and relaced the oil with a CASTROL GTX 2 ..20W -- 50 which CASTROL recommend for older vechicles,
and this did not improve the situation at all , if any thing may have made worse..

I have had such a vast range of opinions from o rings need replacing and the engine/gearbox needs to come out, to the solenoid needs replacing, and a range of other hints.

Thats why I have come to you as I feel you will put your finger on it right away.. If need be I am happy to phone and discuss if cant be answsered in a few words..
I would prefer something in writing if you have time so I can give to the person who will be doing the repairs..

My feeling is that is something electrical, that I hope can be tackled from the outside of the overdrive..

If the car is driven as is will any damage be done to the overdrive.?? ...
The Federal, Canadian, and I believe the Canadian specification MGBs, 77-80, had a TCSA circuit (transmission controlled spark advance) which allowed manifold vacuum to the distributor advance unit only in 4th gear. All a bunch of emissions junk. Since this circuit was in place, and since 3rd overdrive is nearly the same as 4th std, the manufacturer had OD work only in 4th gear.

That "lockout switch" is located on the remote control housing and is the least accessible electrical component in the car. It IS temperature sensitive (it shouldn't be, but sometimes is). Therefore, sometimes it will work when cool but not when hot. You can check this by pulling the gearlever rearwards when in 4th OD (when the OD is not working) to see if you can, by fiddling with the position of the gear lever, get the overdrive to engage. To change the switch all you have to do is disconnect the center and rear exhaust mounts, remove the driveshaft from the gearbox, drop the crossmember, and remove the console and elliptical plate beneath the radio console. The switch is a 16 x 2.0 metric thread, so turning it 1/1000 of a turn will free it up. There are orange shims under the switch, selective fitted. If you install a new switch, try it thirty times before reinstalling all the pieces/parts.

Failure to reverse is a fault of the oil pressure relief valve. Instructions are attached. My view is that 99% of all overdrive problems can be fixed from under the car. Read over the attached info and write back.



Gearbox1967 MGB/GT Overdrive Oil PumpHi I read with interest your advice on MGB overdrive faults. I have re built a 1967 MGB GT 3synchro with overdrive
All electrics are ok, as is solenoid lver travel, oil, etc. However the problem is o/d fails to work. after much adjusting etc it now just about engages when your foot is off throttle, but as soon as you accelerate it disengages.
As you say it could be oil pump stuck. I have tried to access it, but cannot get out the non return valve under it. Is there a special tool?. Do you have any other ideas? Gearbox did stand for a few years unused during rebuild. Also there was quite a lot of debris around filter.
The D type overdrive fitted to your 1967 MGB/GT is not as easily serviceable from under the car as the later model. It is simply not possible to remove the oil pump without first disassembling the overdrive unit (after it's out of the car!). You could try some inexpensive experiments before removing the engine/gearbox. I would drain the gearbox, fill it with paraffin, diesel fuel -- something very lightweight -- and go drive it for a couple of miles, switching the OD on and off. Then come back and drain it out; then try it again. Finally, drain both the main box and the OD, fill it with engine oil, and try again. I would be interested to know your success!
GearboxOverdrive FailureI have a 1979 MGB. The overdive works perfectly from cold (sitches in and out almost instantly) But as soon as I have driven less than 1 mile it fails to work.

The problem probably lies in something simple. Check the gearbox oil, for sure. Use Castrol 20W/50 and fill the box until it just stops dripping (you have the sidefill box with the filler plug on the right). When you're driving, in overdrive, push the gear lever right, back, left -- see if you can get the OD to switch on by the position of the lever. If that makes a difference then there is a problem with the lockout switch (the least accessible electrical component on the car!).



I've attached an article I wrote several years ago for the North American MGB Register -- hope it helps. You can always call during the Technical Hour
GearboxMGA LaygearI need a rear laygear thrust washer with a thickness of .160" for a MGA transmission. Can you supply?
My experience is that ALL the three synchro gearboxes fitted to the Magnettes, Nash Metros, MGAs and MGBs have something like 0.010" end float even though the specification is for 0.003." You would think that the laygear would bang back and forth under acceleration and deceleration in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears, but I've never heard one that I thought was making that kind of noise. We've built hundreds of boxes so I do believe that you'll be OK with the one you've got.
GearboxGearbox OilI got around to checking the gear box oil today and found that I was low about a pint. My memory told me that the transmission used the same oil as the engine so I put a pint of Castrol GTX 20-50 in the gear box. When I checked my notes I realized I should have used 30 weight motor oil. Do you think I have caused any damage? What should I do now?
What do you recommend for the gear box oil? Should it be detergent or non-detergent?


On a related subject, there is a lot of press these days about engine oil. Specifically, the additives have supposedly been removed from Castrol GTX 20-50. I was told that a better choice now would be Valvoline VR1 20-50 Racing Oil. I would be very interested in your opinion.

The gearbox takes "engine oil" and that Castrol 20W/50 is just great. Now there is some concern with Castrol 20W/50 being API rated and not having enough ZDDP -- and that, according to some, will cause a premature cam failure. But, apparently, the high ZDDP concentration is critical only in the first couple of thousand miles after engine rebuilding. A GM product, EOS, which is about $12, is easily added to the engine oil and increases the concentration of ZDDP to a high level.



You can Google "ZDDP British Car" and come up with a hundred articles right now. I'm still unsure as to the critical importance of all this -- but we DID change our engine oil to a diesel rated Valvoline 15w/40 after having used GTX for 30 years. I may change back -- we'll see.
GearboxChanging Overdrive OilI have a '71 MGB that you put an '69 overdrive unit in a few years back. It's now time for me to change the 20W-50 oil in it. I believe the overdrive and transmission share the oil in common. I believe that I have to remove the bottom plug on the overdrive unit to drain both. If I drop the cover and the screen/ magnets to clean the screen filter in the overdrive unit, do I have to be careful of anything falling-out? If you want to change ALL the oil in both the gearbox and overdrive, then removing the filter screen is the only way to drain the OD unit. However, it is just not necessary, on a routine service, to clean the OD filter nor to drain the OD. I would simply drain the gearbox and then refill. If you do plan on draining the OD, purchase a new filter screen first. We almost always simply coat both sides of the screen gasket with grease (allowing you to remove and replace the filter without tearing the gasket, but buy that extra filter just in case.
GearboxOverdrive Bearings I have completed the overhaul and have enjoyed the job. Unfortunately I
have noticed a pre loading of the bearings in the case of the overdrive
when I am torquing up the flange to 120lb/ft. I imagine that I must have
miscalculated the shim thickness slightly but would appreciate if you
could confirm my thoughts that if the shim is not thick enough this will cause
the
pre loading condition or have I got it the wrong way around?
I don't know the torque to expect but the annulus/rear flange assembly
should spin easily but not freewheel. You can add shims as needed, but give
the center nut on the flange a good crack with a hammer to ensure the
bearings are seated.
GearboxGearbox Mainshaft ShimMy friend and I recently pulled the engine and transmission from my 73 GT for a clutch replacement. In so doing, we noticed that the front bearing cover in the transmission was leaking considerably, and decided this was an excellent time to replace the gasket. When we removed the cover, we noticed some mauled metal sitting in the cover, which I now know to be the shim that was placed on the transmission main shaft for the preload on the bearing. Now luckily, the bearing, and it appears, the transmission was not damaged by the destruction of the shim, however, I am wary of placing a new one. Do you have any recommendations regarding this? It appeared to be a 2-3/1000th shim. Both he and I are of the opinion to leave it out. Can you comment?

This shim provides some load against the bearing so that it won't spin. There is a detailed section in the workshop manual about measuring and setting up the shim thickness. I usually use a prick punch and put about 100 punches into the surface that abuts the bearing. This will provide some load against the bearing but won't cause the front cover to flex. Hope this helps.
GearboxReverse Lockout Jammed I am driving a 1969 MGB with 59,000 miles. The car is 90% original.
My problem is, it won't shift into reverse. If I bang it hard enough,
to the left, I can break thru and get it to drop into reverse. We've
flushed the tranny twice, looked to be the original oil...There was
some improvement a few weeks later...Possible wishful thinking on my
part....I'm not sure...My mechanic seems to think replacing the
tranny is in order. The car drives and shifts like new. Its perfect...
(when going forward)...after watching your gearbox video, and seeing
how well made the gearbox is, we are hoping there could be another
solution. I am in PA and unable to bring it into your shop. Would you
be able to offer your opinion ?
I do believe your problem is solved more easily than a complete
gearbox replacement. It seems to me that it's just the reverse lockout
assembly that's jammed. Of course, it takes a slap to get the gear lever to
move left and into the reverse gate, but it shouldn't require more force
than a light slap.

Just above the reverse light switch is a hollow bolt -- I believe
it's either 9/16" or 5/8". Remove that hollowed bolt, spring, and plunger.
Drool a lot of oil in there -- exercise the gear lever. Then replace the
pieces, well greased. Also, remove the reverse light switch and see if that
is difficult to operate (it usually takes a little more effort than a thumb
push). If the switch is difficult to move then replace it.

And, between these two items you'll probably get your reverse
working well again. If your car was here in my shop it would take no more
than an hour to do all this.
GearboxGearbox WhineMy 72 MGB gearbox whines with engine idling and out of gear, the noise goes away if I push the clutch pedal in or if I roll the car forward or back wards about a foot.
What could it be ?
I want to tell you that the swishing you hear is common and normal. When the clutch is engaged (idling in neutral), then the laygear is spinning in the gearbox and throwing a lot of oil all over. You could change the oil -- use Castrol 20W/50. Yet, your comment about moving the car fore and aft is really puzzling. Oh -- you might try this -- spin off the gearknob and see if most or all of the noise is eliminated. Give me a call if you wish.
GearboxGearbox SwitchesOn the top of the 3 synchro gearbox I have 2 switches

switch one is the reverse light switch

switch two is the inhibitor switch

If i view my gearbox from the rear of the box (as if im driving the car) is the reverse light switch on the top left of the gearbox
The switch on the remote control housing is the 3-4 lockout or inhibitor switch; the switch on the intermediate housing (between the main box and the OD) is the reverse light switch. Test each of them about 20 times before installing the gearbox to the car!
GearboxDownshifting TroubleI need some advice I own a 1978 MG midget 1500 and in the summer
after about two hr. of driving I have trouble down shifting back into 1st
from
2nd. I'm using 80/90 gear lube,I've checked the fluid level and it's
fine,after
the tranny has cooled a bit I can downshift with no probs. Any ideas?

Just offhand, I never change from second to first. Instead, I
always knock it from second into neutral and take my foot off the clutch --
when coming down to a stoplight or stop sign. But, that doesn't answer your
question.

There is either some heat related change in the gearbox -- or --
there is a heat related change in the clutch.

The clutch must thoroughly disengage the gearbox from the engine.
If you have a failure to disengage, then you'll have problems changing gears
(some gears more than others), but it will be difficult if not impossible to
engage reverse as the gears will gnash. If you know that engaging reverse
works just fine when you encounter that first gear problem, then the fault
lies in the gearbox.

There are detent springs in the 1-2 sliding hub which, when weak,
don't allow the synchronizer to work. However, this is within the gearbox
and here, at this shop, it would cost about $2000 to repair!
GearboxGearbox ConditionIt is out of the car on the bench. I've never driven it. The input shaft has a for and aft end play of .025" all in movement of the front bearing race in it's cavity. The shaft has a side play of a + and- .040" at 7" forward of the bearing. A .005" disseminated shim forward of the bearing was found in several pieces in the front cover oil passages. The trans. oil was black. Looking in the side cover opening shows no signs of damage or wear on the gears. Do I need to replace the front bearing, shim(s), or what?
Having a heck of a time trying to remove rear seal. It's got a felt seal in a steel jacket. Any suggestions?
It's difficult to determine the condition of the gearbox when it's sitting on the bench. You can tell if it's faulty, but you cannot tell if it's good. The wearing parts are the teeth for reverse on all three gears, and the synchronizers. You can see the teeth (with difficulty); but you cannot see if the synchronizers are cracked. They're most usually OK.

About that front bearing. I would order up some shims (from Moss Motors), and then I would use a prick punch and put about 100 punches into the relieved surface of the front cover before fitting those new shims on top. You could use some bearing locktite, too, to hold those shims from moving and getting eaten up. I wouldn't be overly concerned with the lateral movement of the end of the first motion shaft. That's held in place by the spigot bushing at the end of the crank.

A chisel, a hammer, a piece of hacksaw blade, two big friends to hold the gearbox, a long pry bar. These all might be of assistance in removing that rear seal!
GearboxTesting The Gearbox am at the rolling chassis stage with a 52 TD that I bought ( more or less by accident) as a companion to a not too bad 78 MGB. I got the B up and running although not to perfection in the engine bay but did rather better on the body and trim.

The TD was a collection of parts, rather than a full car in parts. As I learned about TD's it became obvious that at least two cars were the source of the parts. For example the diff has BSF fasteners, which is not correct for my chassis (number 16555) and so forth.

I started at the diff and converted it to 4.555, using a modified Carl Cederstram approach and succeeded in getting the rear suspension fully assembled on the chassis. The drive shaft is now refurbished, bringing me to the gearbox, in the train of things.

It is an 8 inch unit, and appears to be in good shape while missing a couple of minor items in the shift lever assembly, all of which I have obtained from Moss.

iWith the top cover open the gears all appear in excellent shape, and it shiftds into all gears statically. Is there any way to truly test the unit to see if it is ok, before reinstalling it?

I hear people say that if it is worn it will pop out of gear. I don't know enough about gearboxes to know whether this makes any sense, but it seems to me that short of installing it and trying under road conditions it may not be easy to diagnose if it has any weaknesses. Finding a weakness then would mean quite a bit of backtracking, which I have already had a fill of.

All these boxes must have some wear; how much is acceptable, and where and how do you assess it?

Thinking ahead, to perhaps the enevitable, I see that a rebuild of a Gearbox with shift mechanism is estimated at 14 hrs by you. What is your hourly rate?
There is no way to test the box short of putting it in the car. You can, it sounds crazy I know, build up the chassis and take it for a drive. Just around the subdivision or block. This will let you know that your box works at slow speeds and saves you the hassle of dealing with the body around it (should you have to take it back out). The most important gear you have to check is 1st. If the teeth are in any way chipped your box will be very noisy.
We bill the rebuild at 16 hours, 12 on the main box, 2 to rebush the bellhousing and 2 to rebush the remote. At $80.00/hour that settles in around $1200.00. The parts are added on top, and to be quite honest those are the expensive bits. The last lay gear we bought for a customer ran us $1900.00.
GearboxStarter and Flywheel for a Newer Style TransmissionI know years ago you used to answer questions for AMGBA members. I am hoping you still do.
I am having an 18GB motor rebuilt from a 1966 GT and want to put it in my 1973 GT. I know that
I must change the back engine plate so I can use the newer style transmission and the pilot bushing in the crank.
I will also be changing the water pump and pulley to accommodate the alternator. My only remaining question is about the flywheel.
I know that the ring gear for the starter is different and either the ring needs to be changed or the entire flywheel.
Moss Motors lists 2 sizes of ring gears (10.75" and 11.5"). Do you know what size is correct and if I can use the 18GB flywheel
with the 1973 starter? What should I do?
You need to get a flywheel for the pre-engaged starter -- 1968 -1979 (the 1980 flywheels only have one positioning pin and won't fit your crank). Wear is very unusual on these later flywheels, so you won't have to get a ring gear! If you cannot find a ring gear locally, call me and we can work out an agreeable deal for a used one.

Gosh, I haven't officially answered tech questions for the AMGBA since about 1990! I'm now the tech chairman for the North American MGB Register.
GearboxMGB Overdrive After 29 years of MGB (1973 MGB) ownership, I have finally got around to
tracking down an overdrive gearbox, which I brought home in the fall. It
currently sits in my basement (where it is warm), while I check it over.
I
have taken apart and inspected and changed the o-rings in the overdrive
pump, relief valve and solenoid. I have cleaned and checked the "reverse"
and the " 3rd and 4th gear lock out" switches as per your excellent
youtube
video, and get a good strong light from the test light. Is there a way to
check the functioning of the solenoid itself? I can put some current to
it
through the above-mentioned switch, but am unable to tell if it is working
because it really is sealed up inside the overdrive.

Also, the overdrive gearbox is of an earlier vintage ('68 - '70 is
suspect)
and does not have the 3rd switch (on the right side of the control tower)
you speak about on the video for the seatbelt warning system. Should I
swap
the "control tower" from my existing gearbox and put it on the overdrive
unit to keep this switch enabled or leave the overdrive gearbox as it is,
and forget about the switch?

I plan to follow the engine removal instructions as outlined in my Bentley
Manual, unless you have a different set of instructions that would make
the
job easier or safer. I've heard a lot of opinions regarding whether or
not
to remove the engine separately first, then the gearbox, or whether to
remove them both together and separate them when they are on the floor.
Do
you have an opinion in this situation?
It's not possible to test the whole OD unless you can spin the first
motion shaft. Most hand held drills do not have a chuck that will fit the
shaft (0.800) nor the power to spin it quickly. Fortunately, most of the
boxes work most of the time.
If you've changed the O rings and watched the movement of the oil pump (to
ensure it's not galled and stuck down), then you'll be OK.

You will have to swap some parts from the remote control assy on the
exiting gearbox into your old remote to get the seatbelt interlock to work.
Quite frankly, I cannot think of a MGB that yet has that system working, so
you might just let it go.
GearboxVibration Problem Just an update for you, my vibration problem is still there. I think I
sourced the problem to the MGA pressure plate assembly. After speaking
with others, I was told to convert to an 3 synchro MGB pressure plate and
clutch. To complete the conversion, I need the following parts:

-3 synchro MGB front transmission cover
-3 synchro MGB clutch release arm

Would you happen to have these parts in good used condition?
It is true that the conversion from the heavier MGA pressure plate to
the MGB one is a good move. Not only do you get some weight advantage, but
the release bearing has 50% more surface area (hence, it lasts 1/3 longer?).
You really should have an MGB flywheel that has has the three alignment pins
for the pressure plate at 120 degree spacing -- the MGA flywheel has two
pins at 180 degrees. Plus, the MGB flywheel is dramatically lighter than
the MGA one. This is not as helpful for launch inertia, but in a lighter
car, especially on the track, the launch speed is not an issue. I have two
of the three pieces -- not the front cover for the gearbox -- that's the
difficult one!

But, after all that, I doubt your vibration is caused by an
out-of-balance flywheel.

This vibration that you get -- is it rpm related? Can you get the
vibration by sitting still and taking the engine up through 5500 or whatever
the upper limit is? Or, does this vibration evidence itself only when the
car is running down the road. If you can duplicate the vibration sitting
still, then the problem can lie in the engine or exhaust. If only on the
road, then the problem is probably wheel related.
GearboxMGB Gearbox Noise I have a noisy'75 MGB transmission w/OD. Is there a fluid so that the OD would still operate right that would quiet it? Not ready at this time for a rebuild. I am currently running 20w50 in it. It's unclear whether the noise you hear is while the MGB is running in direct or in overdrive. If the noise is evident in both drives, then perhaps it's really the differential. This is especially true if the noise changes between acceleration, free float, and deceleration. If the noise is from the gearbox, is it in 1st 2nd and 3rd but not 4th?

If you change the oil in the gearbox but find no swarf or metal, that's a good thing -- but then, where is the noise coming from. I'd change the oil in the differential, too. Use 80/90 hypoid in the diff.
GearboxMGB Popping Out of Gear I learned of the Shift Gaitor causing the popping out of third but my disassembly and correct reassembly did not solve the problem. It improved it but not solved. I also have a vinyl cover over the rubber gaitor and have tried to make sure it isn't "pulling" on the shifter. Do you have any other suggestions as to how to better position things to prevent this annoyance?
First of all, drive the car with the gearlever gaiters completely loose to make SURE that they are not the root of the cause.

Next, you will need to shim the springs for the detent plungers. You can gain access to these, with some difficulty, as they lie at the top of the gearbox on the left side -- you'll see these three 9/16" headed bolts to the rear of the carbs.

From the left to the right, the detents are Left- Reverse; Middle - first and second; Right - third and fourth. Remove the bolt and fit one or two #8 or #6 spring lockwashers above the springs to force the springs to collapse a little more than normal. You can remove the red fibre washer, too, which will force the bolt ever so slightly more deeply into the hole.
GearboxMGB Gearbox Leaking Oil
I have a 1969 MGB with the original, nonoverdrive gearbox. My problem is that transmission oil leaks past the oil seal on the speedometer pinion gear shaft. I have replaced the oil seal several times, but to no avail. The pinion shaft appears to be in good condition with no visible damage, and the oil seal fit is good, but I cannot stop the leak. This is a particular problem since sources such as Moss Motors indicates that the speedometer pinion is an obsolete part. The right angle drive on the transmission has recently given up and I am suspecting it has plastic gears that have been ruined by the oil leakage. Have you run across this sort of thing before, and do you have any suggestions? Thanks so much for the service you provide to the MG hobby.
Despite the fact that it's bathed in oil, the speedo pinion "never" leaks. That is to say, I simply cannot remember the last time I saw one leak! So, I would suggest that you change the housing altogether.

The 90 degree drive has steel gears but it's an unnecessary expence! Simply purchase an overdrive cable and fit it directly into the gearbox. Allow a LARGE radius loop for the cable as it swings around by the gearbox cross member.

If you cannot find a housing, let me know and I'll UPS one to you for $20 including the postage.
GearboxGearbox ProblemsI know I am not suppose to ask tech questions via email but I am getting fairly desperate here. While asking my question on two different MG forums I get two different responses. I ordered 4 new synchro rings from MOSS and when I put them on the second and third speed gear hub they do not go all the way up on the taper. This causes the gear to rotate very tightly. Is the baulk ring suppose to go all the way up the taper hub so the backside is against the gear? Do they have to wear in? My old ones will allow the gears to rotate freely because they do not bind on the hub. I hope I am explaining this well enough for you to understand. Thanks for taking the time to address this.
When you press the baulk ring onto the speed gear, there should be a 1/8" gap (maybe just a little less) when it's all the way home. If the two cones (one on the gear, one inside the synchro ring) are too small and too big, respectively, then the baulk ring will spin freely on the speed gear. You want those rings to BITE so tightly you cannot spin the gear. Perhaps you need different speed gears?
GearboxMGB OD installation After 29 years of MGB (1973 MGB) ownership, I have finally got around to
tracking down an overdrive gearbox, which I brought home in the fall. It
currently sits in my basement (where it is warm), while I check it over.
I
have taken apart and inspected and changed the o-rings in the overdrive
pump, relief valve and solenoid. I have cleaned and checked the "reverse"
and the " 3rd and 4th gear lock out" switches as per your excellent
youtube
video, and get a good strong light from the test light. Is there a way to
check the functioning of the solenoid itself? I can put some current to
it
through the above-mentioned switch, but am unable to tell if it is working
because it really is sealed up inside the overdrive.

Also, the overdrive gearbox is of an earlier vintage ('68 - '70 is
suspect)
and does not have the 3rd switch (on the right side of the control tower)
you speak about on the video for the seatbelt warning system. Should I
swap
the "control tower" from my existing gearbox and put it on the overdrive
unit to keep this switch enabled or leave the overdrive gearbox as it is,
and forget about the switch?

I plan to follow the engine removal instructions as outlined in my Bentley
Manual, unless you have a different set of instructions that would make
the
job easier or safer. I've heard a lot of opinions regarding whether or
not
to remove the engine separately first, then the gearbox, or whether to
remove them both together and separate them when they are on the floor.
Do
you have an opinion in this situation?
It's not possible to test the whole OD unless you can spin the first
motion shaft. Most hand held drills do not have a chuck that will fit the
shaft (0.800) nor the power to spin it quickly. Fortunately, most of the
boxes work most of the time.
If you've changed the O rings and watched the movement of the oil pump (to
ensure it's not galled and stuck down), then you'll be OK.

You will have to swap some parts from the remote control assy on the
exiting gearbox into your old remote to get the seatbelt interlock to work.
Quite frankly, I cannot think of a MGB that yet has that system working, so
you might just let it go.
GearboxAdding an OverdriveI am intending to install an electric overdrive in my 1963 B. I do not want to risk installing a worn / used device.

Where do you suggest I purchase one?

Is there anything unusual that I should be aware of before I begin?
The addition of the overdrive is a wonderful thing! You know that you'll have to change the length of the drive shaft. You know that you'll have to change the speedo as the turns per mile change between the regular box and the overdrive. There was a relay and vacuum switch associated with the original installation. Personally, I believe that the switch and relay are overkill -- you don't really need it. Make sure you fuse the overdrive right at the switch so there is NO change of a dead short.

As for the source of a good, rebuilt unit? I have no suggestions other than watching and waiting (which you've already done, I'm sure). That three synchro box is always faulty -- either the first gear teeth or the second gear synchronizer -- so I would plan to rebuild the entire gearbox when you get one.
GearboxPopping out of Gear Recently finished a restoration of a 79 MGB in which I had the transmission out of the car. When driving to diagnose a blown head gasket before the restoration, I don't remember it ever popping out of gear but now it has a definite tendency to do so in third gear especially when downshifting into a stop light and occassionaly when accelerating in 3rd. This appears to be more prominent when first starting to drive it, becoming less frequent as the car is driven. Holding pressure to keep it in gear works but is not how I like to have my car operate. I don't have this problem in any of the other gears.
I'm not positive but suspect it had gear oil in the transmission when I got the car, I'm thinking I refilled with 30W oil (I see that you recommend 20/50W Castrol). Can you help with a diagnosis and recommendation?
Bruce
The most common cause of this problem is an overly tightly fitted gear lever boot. No kidding! To see if this is the cause, remove the four screws that hold the gear lever gaiter ring in place, remove the screw at the back of the console, then lift the console and pull out the gear lever gaiter. Now go drive around and see if the problem is still there. If it is (and it could be - but rarely) there are some fixes you can do from under the bonnet.

Let me know!

BTW, the proper stacking of all those pieces is: Gear lever boot, console, trim ring.
GearboxFaulty 3-4 Gearbox SwitchA few days ago I asked you a question about mine O/D.Mine O/D go's all the time on-out,on-out in third gear (and only in third gear),she works perfect in fourth gear.After a testdrive this morning I found this : when I puch the gearstick to the richt side (and I keep hem fast overdear) the O/D works well. Can I do somethings about this ?
The MGB is 1972/1973 whit a laycock O/D
The problem you have is the 3-4 lockout switch. This switch is either faulty or mispositioned, or both. My suggestion is to purchase a new switch (it is the same as the reverse light switch), and fit it. But before bringing the gearbox back into place, test that switch 20 times! to ensure that it is working correctly.

That 3-4 lockout switch is located on the front left of the remote control extension on the gearbox. It is the least accessible electrical component in the MGB. To get to it you've got to remove the console and the elliptical plate around the gear lever. Then you must drop the tail end of the gearbox. Remove the driveshaft and loosen the exhaust at the center and rear of the car. Then remove the four bolts that hold the cross member to the frame. The gearbox will fall several inches (nearly 10cm) down, allowing you to reach in, loosen the old switch and fit the new switch. Use lots of grease when fitting the new switch.
HeatingHeater BoxMr. Twist -
I recently put a complete new heater box/core assembly (purchased from Moss) into my '69 B Roadster. As you know, it's not a fun job, especially getting the cable hooked up to the flapper valve on the bottom of the box. Now, it appears that there is a pinhole leak in the core that's causing steam to rise out of the cowl vent and the defrost outlets (there's no other reason for the steam) .... this did not make me happy. Now I have to pull it out again and verify the leak, though of course Moss is happy to replace it or pay for the repair. My question to you is, is there any way to get the core out of the box without having to completely pull the box out of the car? Is it possible to
get the front cover off the box and pull the core out? I'll bet this is a common question! If it's not possible, do you have any tricks that will help when it comes time to reassemble? Just fyi, the easiest way I found to do it was to pull the cable out of the sheath and attach to the heater box before putting the box into the car. When you put the heater box in, thread the cable core thru and under the dash. This pretty much solves the problem of kinking the cable if it's attached when you install the box. Then, it's possible to slide the sheath onto the cable and into the clamp on the bottom of the box. It's much easier
to get at the clamp that holds the sheath than it is to get at the one that anchors the cable core!

Thanks for your time.

Roger Hotelling

ROGER!

This information arrives late for your use, I know. The most common reason for a leak into the heater box is a loose hose connection at the front. When the hose is loose and anti-freeze leaks, it doesn't drip DOWN the front of the box, it squirts INTO the box -- making the owner believe
he's got a faulty core. The only way to remove the heater matrix is to make a small cut to the sheet metal of the heater box at the inlet pipe. Then, you can bend the
front cover down and gain easy access to the matrix. This is NOT something I like to talk about because it's so crude -- but, as you well know, removing that heater box the "PROPER" way takes hours. We always pull and replace the boxes with the flapper valve inner AND outer cable sheath attached.
IgnitionIgnitionI replaced the cap and rotor on my 77MGB (Allison Ignition) and it would not start. I put the old parts back on and it started and ran fine. I checked the new ones over and they looked fine. I put them back on and nothing. I put the old parts back on and nothing. The spark from the coil appeared to be weak so I replaced it. Still no sparks at the plugs. Everything looks fine but when I metered the coil input I had only 6 volts. The old coil was a twelve volt as is the new one. What did I do? I swapped caps and rotors twice and what was a running car is now garage art. Michael. I enjoy your videos. I need to tell you that I am an old school British car guy--I prefer side curtain cars with points and condensers but I can no longer afford those.The 1975 - 1979 MGBs have a six volt running circuit for the ignition. Only during "start" does the coil receive full battery voltage. That means that the coil must be a six volt coil with about a 1.5 -2.0 primary resistance. These coils are often labelled "12 volt - use with 2.0 ohm external resistor." So, if you're using a 12 volt coil in a six volt system, you'll get half the spark. That may be part of the problem! Hope this helps!
IgnitionIgnitionCan you tell me if the timing specs for these cars change as a result of the unleaded gas we use. My mechanic times my car by "feel/experience" and tells me that if set the timing to manufacturer specs it would not run well at all. If this is true how do we go about timing our cars properly. Timing is CRITICAL! Timing CANNOT be set by feel or experience.! It must be set with a timing light! Let me explain. Every other year or so we offer a technical seminar -- "Tuning for Speed." Several years ago we had a participant drive his 1967 MGB from Hershey PA to Grand Rapids for the seminar. The first day of the class we tune the car to extract as much power as we can from the existing components. Before we changed the timing, we checked it and found it to be at 27 degrees before top dead center at maximum mechanical advance -- around 4000 rpm -- vacuum disconnected. We set the timing at 32 BTDC and the next day placed the MGB on a dynamometer to find 62 HP at the rear wheels. Just for fun we set the timing back to 27. We lost FIVE horsepower! Timing is CRITICAL!! Set the timing in your MGB to 32 BTDC at maximum mechanical advance with the vacuum disconnected. You'll need a dial back timing light for most MGBs.
IgnitionIgnitionI am replacing a Lucas 25D distributor with a 45D E distributor. It has three wires brown-black and a steel uninsulated wire. How do I wire this to a new 4 post voltage regulator? Thanks The Lucas 25D distributor uses points. The one wire from the points is fitted to the negative post on the coil with a WHITE/BLACK wire. The Lucas 45D E distributor originally had a three wire loom -- WHITE, WHITE/BLUE, and WHITE/BLACK. This loom had a three pin connector and was joined to a complementary connector from the wiring loom. The WHITE was battery voltage, the WHITE/BLUE was connected through a drive resistor and supplied about 6 volts, and the WHITE/BLACK was the switching lead connected to the negative post on the coil. The 45 DE distributor had a square amplifier unit on it with a green plastic end. The rule of thumb is that ALL of these original units have failed. That is my guess with yours -- as the colors of the wires from the unit are not factory specification. But which replacement unit was fitted to your 45 DE is a mystery to me! If it were me, I would fit new points to the 25D unit and use that. You can always make points work -- but electronic units eventually fail. That said, the Pertronix units are dynamite. They work excellently and the failure rate is extremely low. When you do fit a working distributor, set the timing at 32 BTDC at full mechanical advance (around 4,000 rpm) with the vacuum disconnected. The voltage regulator you mention, if it is a voltage regulator, would be for the alternator.
IgnitionIgnitionJohn, I recently wrote you a note regarding my ignition light which comes on when I move the key to the off position from the second position. I made some progress. The new wire that put in from the alternator to the ignition light is red. The wire to the radio is also red. I think it's wonderful that the MGB people used the color codes for the wires. The red wire which should be brown yellow that goes from the alternator to the ignition light is correctly connected. It's the radio wire that is soldered to the white wire that goes from the ignition switch and then to a green wire. I cut the red radio wire that goes to the white wire. The part that connects to the green wire fell off. The good part is the car works fine. I'm replacing the ignition switch anyway. The green white wire that should go to the radio doesn't seem to have any juice. I used an ohm meter with the electricity off to see that somehow the green white wire is cut. This has been a wonderful learning experience. Steve Steve, The ignition switch on your 1980 has four positions. In the OFF position, the BROWN (hot) is connected to the SLATE wire which powers the anti run-on valve. In the first position, the BROWN is connected to the WHITE/GREEN wire which powers the radio. In the second position the BROWN is connected to the WHITE/GREEN and the WHITE. The WHITE, in turn, powers the fuel pump, coil, and a relay which switches on everything (brake lights, turn signals, heater motor, wiper motor....). In the third (START) position, the BROWN disconnects from the WHITE/GREEN but continues to power the WHITE -- and, it energizes the WHITE/RED wire which runs the starter motor circuit. By connecting the WHITE wire to another power source (it is unclear where your GREEN wire was connected), the ignition may have never really been cut off -- hence the ignition light remaining ON. I double you really need another ignition switch, so don't throw away your original in case the new one fails! Hope this helps. John
IgnitionDistributor InstallationHello: I'm the proud new owner of a 1974 MGB roadster that has not been started for 11 years. To gain knowledge of my new pride and joy, I have been viewing your U-Tube videos. Thank you for posting them. In the video about changing the distributor drive shaft gear (181), you lined up the timing marks and then took off the valve cover to determine if the engine was set to fire up number 4 or number 1 cylinder. You wiggled the rocker arms of number 1 and number 4 cylinders to determine which cylinder had both valves closed. In your first attempt, the number 4 cylinder rocker arms were loose so you rotated the engine by hand until the rocker arms for number 1 cylinder were loose. Before I saw your video, I set the timing marks at TDC, removed the distributor and mailed it to Advanced Distributors to have it rebuilt. I did not determine which cylinder was set to fire. When I removed the distributor cap, the rotor appeared to be set to fire the number 4 cylinder. My question............ Will I have a problem when I reinstall my distributor? I am not going to rotate the engine while the distributor is out. When I put it back in, I plan to set the rotor to the number 4 cylinder. Thank you in advance. Jerry, You are in luck! It matters not what you do to your engine while the distributor is out as the distributor only fits back into the engine one way! There is an offset keyway on the driving dog which prevents fitting the distributor into the engine wrong. That said, the distributor cam can be fitted to the shaft 180 degrees out. Could Jeff make a mistake assembling it. Probably not, but... Is it possible that the distributor drive gear is fitted to your engine 180 degrees out AND the distributor was 180 degrees out so that the wires are in the correct place in the cap (#1 at 1:00) and then Jeff sends the distributor back to you with the correct alignment which would cause the rotor to be 180 out (because the drive gear is 180 out). Well, these are bizarre eventualities. Chances are it will all fit right back together! That 1974 distributor has an 18 degree advance. The engine runs much better if this is reduced to ten degrees! If Jeff still has the distributor, give him a call and tell him you want it moved to ten degrees. Then, when you get it back, set the timing at 32 degrees BTDC at full mechanical advance (vacuum disconnected) which is around 4000 rpm. You’ll find the idle timing is about 20 BTDC vacuum disconnected and as much as 40 BTDC at idle with the vacuum working. The 73/74s have a problem with this long curve coupled with the manifold advance and the HIFs which result sometimes in a slow degrading of idle speed. By changing the advance spec, you won’t endure that problem. Hope this helps. John
IgnitionCoil WiringQuestion: I recently purchased a 1973 mbg that had been sitting for about 7 yrs. To get to point i'm tuning it up and it was running before i started just not good. Anyway when i installed the points resistor in dist. I'm connecting the resistor wire over the stud that has the rubber? bushing and connecting the negetive wire that comes from coil. my question is do the wires connect there or should there be a bushing or something separating then and should they both be touching/connected to the stud that sticks out of the points? I can't get it to crank now and that's the only thing I can think of that I may have wrong since everything else just has one place to go. thanks and look forward to your help.The small flexible wire from the spade terminal to the points is called the "LT lead" or Low Tension Lead. This should be common with the ring from the condenser lead, and common with the spring band from the points. These three items (the LT lead, the condenser wire, and the spring band) must NOT be grounded through the center stud. The items are usually stacked from the bottom thus: insulator, spring band, condenser lead, LT lead, insulator, washer (where fitted), and nut. Your error here is very, very common! The gap on those new points should be 0.015" to give a dwell of 60 degrees. When you time the engine, set it at full mechanical advance -- around 4000 rpm. Set the timing at 32 degrees before top dead center, vacuum disconnected. You'll need a dial back timing light for this operation -- or you'll have to make a new mark on the front pulley to allow you to achieve a 32 degree setting. Hope this helps!
IgnitionDistributorohn Thanks so much for your over the phone help while I tinkered with the SUs on my 73 MGB. Your explanation of setting the float levels was so much better than the way it's described in the Haynes manual. The choke O rings were available at NAPA. The O ring in the front carb looked like dried cardboard and crumbled upon removal. The barrel where it goes was all crudded as well. The O ring on the back carb was split. Replacing both O rings, cleaning all the orifices, and replacing the needles and seats and the float cover O rings did the trick. Car started right up and runs great. Feels like a timing adjustment may be in order so that's next on the agenda. Thanks again for all your help and your patience with my questions. Ken Oehler Naples, FLKen! Send your distributor to Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributor in Minnesota and ask him to fit a 12 degree cam. Right now you have an 18 degree cam in the distributor which makes idle timing a real problem. Once you have it back, set the timing at 32 BTDC at maximum advance -- usually around 4000 rpm with the vacuum disconnected. Your engine will perform EXCELLENTLY! Thanks for the nice note about the HIF O rings.
IgnitionTiming Gear PositionWhen rebuilding an 18V b engine the book states The timing dimples on crank gear and cam gear are opposite each other. I\'m being told by others that this is not correct. It is right or not? John Terschak John, When the dimples are next to each other the engine is firing on #4 and that's the confusion. One would expect it to be firing on #1. But, it doesn't make any difference. I line the gears/chain up on the bench to ensure that the marks are next to each other, then fit them to the engine (crank key at 12:00, cam key at about 2:00). When you fit the distributor drive gear, do so with the engine firing on #1 and set the drive gear into the block with the large half uppermost and the slot horizontal. As the drive gear slides into the cam, it will turn anti-clockwise and come to rest with the slot at about 2:00 - 8:00. Remember to get oil pressure BEFORE you start the engine!! Hope this helps!
IgnitionDistributorsJohn:

Thanks for you advice on the phone Tuesday evening. I appreciate the help.

As you described, please email me at the above email address regarding the basic procedure for installing the Lucas points based distributor you described. Thanks.

If you have any tips regarding re-timing the car, please include those as well.

Thanks again. Happy Holidays.

Steve Wilcox

STEVE!

There are two major types of MG distributors, both carrying vacuum advances: the 10 degree mechanical advance and the 20 degree mechanical advance. You CANNOT be certain of the advance until you remove the breaker plate from the top of the unit and examine the number stamped on the limiting finger. You may find a 13 degree -- call it 10; you may find an 18 degree, call it 20.

In the case of the 10 degree distributor: time the engine at 20 BTDC at idle and connect the vacuum to the carburettor (the top port on the Stromberg).

In the case of the 20 degree distributor: time the engine at 15 BTDC at 1500 rpm (vacuum disconnected), then connect the vacuum to the manifold.

Hope this helps at this late date!
IgnitionElectronic Ignition I own a '69 MGB and wish to convert it to an electronic ignition system. Should I use a conversion unit (such as the Crane) or is there a complete distributor available? What do you recommend and do you have anything available that I can purchase from you?

Thanks,

Mike Rose

MIKE!

My initial suggestion is to leave well enough alone! You do not need an electronic ignition on your 1969 MGB. Further, points are better! Points give you a clue when they're going to fail. They usually slowly wear and the points close up -- for each degree of dwell that the points close, the timing retards by one degree. The engine slowly loses power, it gets difficult to start. On the other hand, an electronic ignition works perfectly until it fails. Then you're dead in the water. Points can nearly ALWAYS be returned to working condition with a stick, a penny, a screwdriver, or a tire iron (I've used all those).

The only advantage to electronic ignition is that the dwell cannot change. The functions of mechanical advance and vacuum advance are not affected by installation of an electronic ignition.

There are several types of aftermarket electronic ignitions -- the Lumenition or Crane both are good; the new "Ignitor" fits completely within the distributor cap (hard to believe!). They are easily fitted and work well for many, many miles (until the day it fails!).
IgnitionElectronic Ignition, Mallory Dual Point Distributer, V8John

For the past 3-4 yrs I have been rebuilding a '79 MGB basket case. I've learned (the hard way) that you need to know what problems are likely when buying used British cars, but I'm determined to put a good looking, safe, and mechanically sound "B" on the road in time for MG '01 here in Mpls.

I spent the first year or so replacing/repairing anything broken and making the car road safe. The next year the sills were replaced, as well as the entire suspension: Spax shocks, new, lower leaf spring, coil over shocks in front, king pin sets, etc. Also, Mini lite rims and new, wider Dunlaps were added. Last year I stripped the car down to the body and had a local body shop replace all rusty panels and paint Guards Red. This spring I will put it back together with new leather interior, new carpeting, new top, etc The point here is that I'm trying to do as nice a job upgrading the car as Moss Motors can provide!

I plan to pull the engine for a rebuild in a year or two but until then I'm concerned about the current electronic ignition. As near as I can tell it's the unit that came out of Abingdon (the car has 80,000 miles) and the replacement elec ignition for a '79 from Moss doesn't match what I have. Instead of going further down the elec ignition road I'm considering converting to a distributor with points, and since Moss currently has the Mallory dual pt unit on sale I would upgrade to that unit. Would you recommend this switch especially since I plan to upgrade the engine for add'l HP when it is rebuilt?

My reasoning to convert is;

1. On an upgraded engine i.e. hi performance cam, replaced Stromb. carb, recommended head machining, etc the dual pt distributor would be an improvement over an elec ignition.
2. The full centrifigal advance feature gives better performance over a wider speed range and on a SU or Weber replacement carb I may lose the vacuum source.

One last question, do you agree with the author of "How To Give Your MGB V8 Power" when he recommends not installing an aluminum V8 in a roadster unless you replace the body with a new body shell?

Thanks for your time and advice.

Sincerely,

Marty Hanley

Marty!

The existing Lucas electronic ignition fitted to your 1979 MGB will work just fine. I assume that this is the black box under the coil, with a dual wire (red and black) running to the distributor.

The dual point Mallory has little advantage over your existing unit! It is a point style -- which I, personally, prefer over the electronic. But the dual points are not necessary, in that MG ignition coils do not run out of spark. The vacuum advance allows better mileage and economy. I wouldn't worry about it until you do your "engine rebuild."

Peter Burgess makes a difference between chrome bumper and rubber bumper cars, and the type of vacuum pickup (carburettor vs manifold). For US specification cars his information is not completely correct.
IgnitionVacuum Can you advise me as to where the dist. on this car should get it's vacuum supply? I have a pair of rebuilt carbs from Moss but they have no vacuum ports...... 1972 mgb

Many thanks for a moment of your time

Bob Craighead

Connect your distributor vacuum advance hose to the MANIFOLD!
IgnitionVacuum Advance DistributorsMr Twist,

I bought a 1974 MGB chrome bumper car from an MG enthusiast in Florence AL. that I am rebuilding the engine on. I have been following Peter Burgess's book How To Power Tune MGB's. One of the things he mentions if I am reading correctly is that on a chome bumper car the distributor vacuum advance is connected to the SUs and not the intake manifold as on rubber bumper cars. When I bought this car, the air injection system had been removed and the distributer vacuum advance was connected to the intake manifold.

Acording to my friend you don't mind answering questions of this nature. Is this the correct place to connect the vacuum? In all of the shop manuals etc. there is no mention of where this is connected.

Your help is greatly appreciated.
Sincerely, Jeff Buettner

JEFF!

Peter writes from an English perspective. There are TWO types of distributors: mechanical advance only and mechanical with vacuum advance.

The purely mechanical distributors, fitted to the T types, to the 1967 Sprite (!), and available now as Mallory dual point distributors, do not offer the economy that the vacuum units do.

There are TWO types of mechanical with vacuum advance distributors: Manifold vacuum OR carburettor vacuum. 1956 - 1971 is carburetter vacuum; 1972 - 1980 is manifold vacuum.

SO! Look INSIDE the distributor -- the limiting finger on the mechanical advance is stamped either about 10 degrees or about 20 degrees. If it is marked 10 degrees, then the vacuum advance should be connected to the carburettor vacuum, and timed 20 degrees BTDC at idle. If it is marked 20 degrees, then the vacuum advance should be connected to the MANIFOLD, and timing 15 BTDC @ 1500 rpm, vacuum disconnected.

I like the later, manifold vacuum, distributors. My advice is to keep that style on your car, but the fully mechanical would be OK too.

Hope this helps.
IgnitionDistributor Replacement Is there a replacement for my 25d distributor? I have ask the question on the Internet with varying answers. The D45 (which part number ?) the mallory dual-point or have my 25D rebuilt. My car has 117000 miles and I drive it just for fun,no competition. The problem with my 25D is shaft wobble and the vacuum can has a leak.

Thank you ,your advice will be greatly appreciated

David McNeill

DAVID!

Your original distributor is easily rebuilt -- it will cost you $60 plus parts (and that vacuum advance is about $60 itself!) at my shop.

You can fit the dual point Mallory, but you must experiment to get the correct idle advance and maximum advance. I believe the Mallory is about $140. The major advantage of the Mallory is that it is new. The "dual points" are not necessary on an MG. The loss of vacuum advance evidences itself in higher emissions and poorer gas mileage.

Your situation is no different than many other MGB owners. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
IgnitionVacuum AdvanceThe vacuum advance unit on this distributor is seized. I do not find a
replacement vacuum advance that matches up with this Lucas part # in Moss
or
Victoria British, etc.. What do I need/do? Thank you, Jim Orrell

JIM!
First, try M&G Vintage Auto in Tuxedo Park, NY -- they have rebuilt units
and new units which look virtually like the originals.
Second, use nearly any vacuum advance -- remember on your distributor, as
it is connected to the intake manifold (isn't it?), that it works only at
idle and deceleration. To make the car idle correctly, you need some
advance, but I'm not convinced that it is an absolutely critical number.
Hope this little bit helps.
IgnitionDistributorCould you please send me the information from the "Special Tuning
Booklet"
that my machinist would need to curve my distributor.I would prefer to
phone my credit card number to you.Could you please send me a phone
number?


Thank-You

Bill Burke

Bill! A side draught Weber carburetter requires a special
distributor
with no vacuum advance. I would suggest that you use points (you can
ALWAYS fix them and get back on the road). I can take your
distributor
and
turn it into the distributor that you need for about $150. This is
the
same distributor that the "Special Tuning Booklet" suggests.
IgnitionDistributor1977 MGB ,REBUILT STOCK SPEC.ENGINE WITH ''FAST ROAD'' CAM AND SIDE
DRAFT
WEBER CARB. HAVE EARLY STYLE DISTRIBUTOR THAT NEEDS TOTAL REBUILD.
WOULD
LIKE TO ELIMINATE POINTS.WOULD LIKE YOUR RECOMMENDATIONS WITH PRICES
AND
SPECS.



THANK YOU

BILL BURKE

Bill! My apologies for not getting back with you sooner!

These specs come from the factory comp handbook c-akd 4034c

Adv starts at 400; runs right up to 8 degrees at 1000; then changes its
slope and increases to 12 degrees at 3250. This is distributor degrees,
distributor rpm. I believe that the maximum advance is 35 degrees on the
crank -- so static timing would be 11 BTDC.

Hope this helps.

John
IgnitionDistributorHELLO JOHN,
I AM JERRY BUSH AND WE REALLY ENJOYED YOU AT ST.JO.
DURING YOUR WALKING TECH SESSION, YOU BREIFLY LOOKED AT OUR 1978 RED MGB (IT
WAS RIGHT AFTER THE BLACK MGB WITH THE FUEL LEAK YOU FIXED) WE HAVE THE
WEBBER CARB SET UP AND A DISTRIBUTOR WE WERE NOT SURE OF , WITH A LUMINATION
TRANSISTOR INGNITION. YOU RECOMMENDED A DUEL POINT MALLORY. I TOOK THIS
DISTRIBUTOR APART WHEN WE GOT HOME TO TULSA, AND FOUND IT RUSTED SOME AND
NOT MOVING INTERNALLY. THIS I HAVE FIXED. IT TURNS OUT TO BE A "25D"
MODEL 13 DEGREE, WITH THE LUMINATION ADDED. EVEN IF I GET IT TO RUNNING
GOOD AFTER CLEANING THIS UP, IS THIS A COMBINATION THAT IS AT ALL
ACCEPTABLE TO THE 1978 CAR, WITH A WEBBER?? AM I WASTING MY TIME??
THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOU INPUT,
REGARDS,
JERRY AND CHERYL BUSH

JERRY!

I would try that distributor in the following manner: Ensure the
dwell is 60 degrees (gap of 0.015"), set the timing at 20 degrees BTDC at
idle. Connect the vacuum to "high speed" or "ported" vacuum. You'll have
to judge the vacuum port on that downdraught Weber to make sure you have the
correct vacuum. Place the hose on your upper lip and rev the engine. If
the vacuum is greatest at idle and de-celeration, then it is MANIFOLD vacuum
and not satisfactory. If it is greatest on acceleration and higher speed
(throttle open), then it is the vacuum port you want. This combination
should give you reasonable performance.

It was a pleasure to come fix MGs in St Joseph, Missouri!
IgnitionTimingJohn,
I hope this finds you and yours in good health.
I have a quick question that I hope you can shed some light on. I just
rebuilt the engine on the 79 MGB. A few things were changed. It
presently
has HIF carbs and a non-electronic 45D distributor (new). There is no air
pump or cat converter. My question is what would be the best ignition
timing
setting? Would I go with the timing and procedure to match the engine or
the
carbs? The Haynes manual has a variety of different settings and
procedures
(i.e. set the timing @ 1500 RPM).

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill Waterstraat


P.S. In December I sold you a 73 MGB/GT that was trashed. I recently saw
what seemed like an identical car on a trailer going the other way on the
expressway in Chicago. I'm just curious if you resold it or not. Not
important!

BILL!

You have a late model distributor -- a 45 D with points -- probably
a 41427 which is sold as the Euro-spec MGB distributor. This unit uses a
gap of 0.015", a dwell of 51 degrees, and a timing of 20 BTDC at idle.
Then, connect the vacuum line to the brass fitting at the TOP of the
Stromberg carb -- the ported (or high speed) vacuum -- NOT the manifold
vacuum.

For the life of me, I cannot remember what we did with that car!
One guy took the carbs, we took the drive train, OH -- I believe we sold the
rest to a guy here in town -- my memory fails me!

Stop around when you can!

SAFETY FAST!
IgnitionTiming, ClunkJohn,
Received your reply concerning the timing on the 79 MGB. You wre correct
on
the distributor # but you mentioned a Stromberg carb and the connection of
the vacuum line to the ported vacuum. I have converted my engine to SU
HIF
carbs. What do I do in this situation? I have a 45D distributor (new) on
the engine. Any help is greatly appreciated.

On another subject, I have a severe "clunk" in the rear end when changing
directions from forward to reverse or visa versa. I have performed the
world
famous "John Twist Rear End Clunk Procedure" but the problem persists. I
would like to bring it to you to further diagnose the problem. I would
like
to bring it there at the end of the driving season probably like every
other
customer that you have. Would this be O.K. and can you let me know if I
can
leave the vehicle at your facility for possibly a week or two until I can
collect it after the repair. Again, your reply is appreciated concerning
your busy schedule.

Item # 3... We will be attending the Grand Rapids Grand Prix in August.
Will
you be in attendance? If you are, I would like to treat you to either
lunch
or dinner at the event. Please let me know.

Sincerely,
Bill

Bill!
You have the wrong distributor for your car! There are two ways
out: Change the distributor; or, drill a vent into the HIF. I've never
done the latter on a set of HIFs, but it's got to be less expensive than
changing the distributor.

The clunk is from: loose wire wheels; loose hubs; loose drive
shaft; faulty U Joints; and lastly, loose diff and pinion wheels in the
carrier. One or more of these is giving you the clunk -- and I can find it!

BTW, the engine from that old Harvest Gold GT just left for
Detroit for use in a guy's car. We used it in Caroline's car for a month or
so when we rebuilt her engine.

I believe the GP is the week AFTER the summer party. I'll look
forward to seeing you sometime around then!
IgnitionPoint GapGood morning, John;

I have a basic question which I would appreciate your thoughts on. I
have a 1951 MG TD MkII. The distributor is identified as the symmetric
type. The manual for the TD says that the gap between the points should
be between 0.010 in and 0.012 in. However, the person I purchased the
car from, who has restored and raced a number of British classic cars,
says he thinks he always set the gap at 0.015 in. Which is proper? None
of the manuals or books I have pertain to the enhanced Mk II engine
(basically a 1250 TF engine). I was wondering if perhaps this is the
reason the gap use to be set at 0.015. Which is correct or which do you
recommend?

Thank you for your time and have a great day.

Stu Keen

STU!

The gap of 0.010 to 0.012 should give you a dwell of about 41 -
49. It is so very difficult to describe what each of the three distributor
cams look like: the high lift has very high lobes; the symmetic has very
rounded lobes, and the asymmetic -- well, that one looks like Bub at the
local garage wrecked it on his grinding stone. I'm attaching a pix which
may help.

Time the car static at zero, but if you're using a timing light,
expect an advance of 13 BTDC at idle.

SAFETY FAST!
IgnitionGapsJohn;

Thank you for your reply. In your photo of distributor cams there is
listed initial and normal gaps. What is the difference? Is initial when
brand new? As stated, the previous owner set the breaker gap of a MGTD
symmetric cam at 0.015 and I am wondering why. He doesn't recall where
he got the figure, just that is what he always set ithe point gap at.

Stu Keen


Stu! I don't know that answer -- look for the dwell, as THAT is the figure
you want.
IgnitionCoilDear John:
A few months ago I sent you my distributor to be rebuilt. You did an
excellent job for me and I was very please with it. Both you and your
staff
were very courteous on the phone and I appreciate it greatly. To be
brief, I
need a coil for my 1958 MGA. From what I know I can purchase one through
Moss or Victoria British but I am concerned about the originality of it.
Do
you sell the old screw type coils that are silver and original to the car.
If so, please write back and give me a price. I really want my
restoration
to look as original as possible. Please give me a suggestion if you don't
have this item. Thanks so much and I recommend your services to all
fellow
British car enthusiasts that I know. ( Great Web Site ).

Thank You,
Robert R. Jacobsen

Robert!

I believe you have several options: find a used coil at a swap meet
or on the internet at www.mgcars.org.uk; find an original coil by sending
out a letter to ALL the vendors you can find in British Car Magazine, Safety
Fast, Enjoying MG, MG Magazine, Hemmings Motors News, and all the club
publications; or:

Purchase a new coil (DLB101) and fit a push-in copper connector to
the end of your coil wire as you would for any modern coil. BUT, use your
original threaded nut to give the appearance of originality! Take that
original nut and turn it down on a lathe or with a Dremel Tool so that it
"just" fits into the coil tower. I believe with a little time and care you
can make it appear just right. Lucas coil adhesive labels are available
from the major suppliers.

I wanted originality, too. I ran a screw in coil in my 1962 MGA
1600 Mark II Deluxe for years. Then it failed. I found a used one and fit
it -- it failed; I fit ANOTHER used one, and again had a coil failure. I
now run a modern coil with a push in wire connector. It's no long
"original" but it works. I do however, run twin six volt batteries with
helmet clamps, positive earth!

I have no original coils at the shop.

FAST FORWARD!
IgnitionDistributorJohn,

As always we had a great time at the Summer Party, thanks to all.

Tech Question: I was at the last Carb/Dizzy tech session, and know you
discussed it. Just don't remember what you said. On a distributor where
the rubbing block doesn't lie flat against the cam, does one bend the
backing plate to fix the alignment? The backing plate has the short
pivot pin.

Thanks!

Bob Haskell

Bob!

I prefer to bend the base plate. The base plate holds the CB
(contact breaker) plate. Striking this with the punch and hammer will tip
it so that the plastic (phenolic) cam follower rides parallel with the
distributor cam.
IgnitionPointsJohn -

Regarding my recent e-mail to you about my '76 B running rough. If you
have yet to compose an answer, relax! I found the problem. This
afternoon
after trying numerous other possibilities, I replaced the
Crane/Allison-equipped dist'r with another 25D4 with points/condenser.
There's still some tweaking to do in order to get a decent idle, but this
is the 2nd Crane/Allison failure I've experienced (the first on the way to
the Summer Party in '96) and it's the third Crane Allison failure I know
of.

Is this pretty common? I swear the '76 runs better than ever on good ol'
points. And when they go bad, I can replace 'em myself!

Thanks,

Allen

ALLEN!

It may be old fashioned ( I am a "member" of the Positive Earth
Club), but I just LOVE points. Points work nearly all the time and when
they fail, they usually give notice. Hard starting, loss of power, higher
engine temperature are all symptoms. AND, if the points DO fail on the
road -- you can nearly always return to speed using a screwdriver, knife,
stick, tire iron, coin (I've used all these!). I figure that electronic
ignitions are pointless because when they do fail, you're dead in the water
until your overnight shipment arrives.
IgnitionPoints Hi John -

Thanks so much for your reply. The Crane-Allsion equipped dist'r rides
very nicely in a box in the trunk while I enjoy trouble-free daily
commuting, thanks to points<<. The guy who sold the C-A to me(during a
moment of profound weakness in which I take little pride) tells me it's an
adjustment problem I can solve myself. Bless his heart, he even faxed all
20+ pages of the owner's manual to me. I've read it, and yes, I believe I
could get the thing to work ok... But why? I'm happy now!

Many thanks for your answer. Much as I could do nothing about it, I'll
never forgive myself for missing both Vancouver and particularly the Last
University Motors Summer Party, all in the same season.

We did make Hosers Eh! in Grand Bend Ontario - but we made the BIG
mistake
of arriving in our B. After 700+ trouble-free miles, we had an HIF float
failure right at the host hotel - which I quickly resolved the next day,
thanks to the correct new float from Obsolete Automotive in nearby Sarnia.
And diagnosis was expedited thanks to Ben Ouelette - a dedicated B/C
owner.
' Have to say the MGA folks did not bend over backwards to help - the only
time in my 15 years of MG passion when the marque of friendship was not
in
evidence. We missed the show - I spent the time putting the carb back
together. But we did make the fun rally - which was REALLY fun. I
didn't
realize until long after we got home that I could have blocked the fuel
line and run the car 50 yards to the car wash and another 100 yards to the
show field on one carb. In most venues, you can bet somebody would have
seen to that. We've seen it happen many times. Arrrgh!!! Live and
learn,
I guess. I love MGs and MG people. This is the first time I've ever had
a
complaint. It does not dampen my enthusiasm.

Again, thanks for your help. If you know of one for sale, by the way, I'm
looking for a Z Magnette.

Allen




ALLEN!

It may be old fashioned ( I am a "member" of the Positive Earth
Club), but I just LOVE points. Points work nearly all the time and when
they fail, they usually give notice. Hard starting, loss of power,
higher
engine temperature are all symptoms. AND, if the points DO fail on the
road -- you can nearly always return to speed using a screwdriver, knife,
stick, tire iron, coin (I've used all these!). I figure that electronic
ignitions are pointless because when they do fail, you're dead in the
water
until your overnight shipment arrives.
IgnitionIGNITION TMINGWHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO CK MY TIMING ON MY 1967 MGB THE CAR RUNS A LITTLE
HOT.CAN I USE A TIMING LIGHT THANK YOU
JOE

Joe!

You've probably already got your MGB timed -- but just in case you need some assistance:

Static time the car at about 5 degrees BTDC. Remove the low tension wire from the side of the distributor -- connect a 12v test light between the LT lead on the distributor and a HOT source (solenoid or fuse box). Now, when the points are closed, the test light will illuminate; when the points open, the light will extinguish.
Hold the rotor clockwise, then turn the distributor clockwise until the light "just" goes out. Lock down the distributor. It's timed.

Or: Use a timing light and set the timing at 20 degrees BTDC at idle (about 850/900 rpm). If you have a "normal" timing light, then you'll have to mark the front pulley 10 degrees before the real timing mark (use the timing marks on the front cover as a guide). If you have a timing light with an advance wheel, then you're all set.

Hope this little bit helps.

John
Ignition1979 MGB Distributor Problem Hi John,
My Dad sold me a '79 MGB awhile back that he's owned since 1984. It has
33K original miles. The engine has been slightly modified, in that it has
twin carbs and the air pump removed.

Here's my problem - It has a electronic distributor which I think has
failed. When I test for a spark, there is none.
Do you know if I can order a replacement "module" for it?
If so where? Also, how difficult would it be to replace the electronic
distributor with a conventional (points) distributor?
Thanks!
Steve Piotrowski

Steve!

Nearly all of the original Lucas electronic distributors have
failed. They are not a good unit. Your replacement options are: 1) a
complete distributor from an earlier model (63-69 time at 20 BTDC at idle,
vacuum to the carb; 70-74 time at 15 BTDC @1500 rpm vac disconnected, then,
after timing, connect to manifold); 2) a replacement distributor, often
sold as a "European spec" 41427 Lucas -- which is timed at 20 BTDC at idle,
vacuum connected to the carb; or 3) an electronic replacement system, either
Pertronix or similar. There are plusses and minuses to each. Me? I prefer
the Lucas 41427 distributor as it has points. Contact Moss Motors for
supply.

Hope this helps!

John
IgnitionSubject: Ignition Timing MGAJohn:
Trust you are well and happy holidays !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was unable to find the answer in your Q&A search so here goes.

I have a 57 MGA.
With everything connected and using an adjustable timming light... what is the correct dynamic ignition timming for my MGA. Currently I checked and it is approx 30 degrees BTDC @ 600 rpms

Thanks so very much,

David Gates

David!

The static, non-running, setting for the timing is 7 degrees BTDC. The dynamic timing -- at idle (about 800 rpm) should then be about 20 degrees BTDC. It is very common for the vacuum advance not to work in the MGA -- because of faulty connections at the carb or at the distributor -- ensure these are tight!

Still, after timing with a light -- you should go out for a test drive and ensure that the car is fast -- and that it does NOT spark knock during a full throttle acceleration in third gear.

Hope this helps!

John
IgnitionInternal Plugs Fouling John,

Yeah...that problem got sorted out... turned out to be
floating points...a PO used plain grease to lube the
points (and was a member of the "if one drop is good,
10 drops is better" fraternity). Once I got a handle
on that (and discovered the reality of disconnecting
the battery before I remove the distributor) it ran OK
for a while. Of course, now there are other problems
with this beast...seems like I've got some bad valves
(you don't want to know what the compression test I
ran says), the rings are pretty well shot as well(I go
through a quart of oil every tank full)The blowby is
very bad...there is a jet (!) of oil vapor coming out
of the filler cap.

Sounds like I need a engine build in the worst
way...(sigh!). Too bad the bucks aren't there now. But
at least it still runs (until number 1 plug fouls,
which takes a week or so).

Bill!

Use some N12Y plugs; that will slow down the fouling!

John


John,

I think your last sentence is the clue... I've pulled
the plugs several times and they had a film of oil on
them after the car "runs" for a couple of minutes.
Next time I start it it runs fine for a minute or two
and then the performance deteriorates...backfires,
runs rough, no power.

I have a Weber downflow on this (it was on it when I
got the car) and a crankcase breather hose is attached
to the air cleaner (behind the filter), and the entire
carb area is oily. When the car runs with the filter
off the carb, I can see quite a bit of oil smoke
blowing out of this hose. The car has been quite
throughly desmogged (maybe too throughly!) so my guess
is that the crankcase is somehow pressurizing (I need
to trace the hose and check if there is some sort of
PCV valve that is bad), blowing oil into the inlet
side of the engine and fouling the plugs...

I picked up a timing light this morning (my old one
died) and the timing (while the engine was running
well) was OK. So it's not a timing problem.

John Twist wrote:
The point gap should be 0.015" for a dwell of 60
degrees. The timing should
be 15 degrees before top dead centre at 1500 rpm,
vacuum disconnected. Make
certain those plugs are clean -- a fouled plug will
cause the engine to run
on less than all cylinders!

John

. . . . . . . . . . . .
Bill Daniels
IgnitionFiring OrderDear Mr. Twist,
I own a 1973 MGB with what I believe is a 1967
engine(no Numbers on the engine)I have owned this car
for years. I have owned MG's since 1974. This one has
SU carbs and distributor says 25D on it, model
#41491A.
The car runs great, and it passes DMV
inspections every year.
Looking at my distributor from the passenger
side and going in a clockwise direction the firing
order on this car is 1-2-4-3.Meaning that the number 1
spark plug wire goes from the number one plug to the
number one position on the distributor.The next
position in a clockwise direction on the distributor
connects that wire to the number 2 cylinder etc. etc.
This is not my imagination. Am I doing or not
understanding something correctly?
yotrulyuely,
Dave Matos

Dave!

You've simply mistaken the direction of the distributor! It runs
anti-clockwise. So, your firing order is really, from about 2:00 on the
cap, 1 - 3 - 4 - 2.

John
IgnitionMidget Ignition Coil
John,
Hope you are doing well. We are continuing our love/hate relationship
with
MG's, so I have a question that I hope you can answer:

We recently replaced the standard coil with a Lucas Sport coil rated at
30,000 volts. Since then, I can drive the car and it runs just fine for
about 45 minutes. Thereafter, it wants to sputter, lose power, and
eventually shut down while the car is moving. When I pull over, I can
start the engine right away and it runs fine again for about 60 seconds,
then starts to sputter, lose power, and shut down again. The fuel filter
has clear gas so I don't think that debris is clogging the fuel system.
Sometimes I tap the floats but I don't think thats the problem because I
don't need to do that to get the car running again.

We did not change the condenser so the car has the original stock
condenser. Should the condenser be changed also and if yes, what type do
you recommend? Or, does it sound like a different electrical problem or
fuel problem?

I hope you are doing well and thanks for your help.

Scott

Scott!

Many apologies for the horrible delay in answering your email.

Those Sport Coils not only provide more spark but they ALSO take
more current than the standard coils. That sometimes (in your case, most
likely), melt the plastic cam rider on the points and allow the points to
close up.

Solution? Use non-Lucas points (Blue Streak by NAPA) OR refit the
original coil.

You've probably solved the problem by now -- what did you do?

John
IgnitionSpark Plugs John:

Which Champion Spark Plugs would you recommend that I install in my MG-TD?
The engine serial no. is 3309 and the car is licensed as a 1951, but I
believe it was actually built in 1950.

Thank you for your advice.

Sincerely yours,

John Molnar

John!

Use Champion L-87 plugs, gapped at about 0.035" if you have a newer
ignition coil on the car. The original coils will only handle a gap of
about 0.025". There is always the chance that the head was changed and the
correct plug should be an "N" reach (N-5 plug), but that's probably not the
case. The length of the threads on Champions is 3/8" for "J"; 1/2" for "L";
and 3/4" for "N". Hope this helps!

John
Ignition1979 MGB Opus Electronic Ignition SystemJohn, My 79 MGB appears to still have the "opus" electronic ignition system (68,000 miles). I put 1,000 miles on the car this summer after 3 years of "fixing" and on my last drive of the year it quit on me. After sitting for awhile it would restart and run and then quit, requiring a tow home.

The car will run if the "drive resister" can be kept cool - but I don't believe that's the root of the problem. The Moss motors catalog identifies the Opus electronic ignition as unreliable - I haven't found out what was unreliable - did they tend to cause failure by overheating the systems?

Page 126 of the "Official Workshop Manual" identifies replacement of the "amplifier module" in three of the four options when ignition failure is occurring. The coil seems to be fine (fourth option).

What's your advice? I'm considering replacement of the old amplifier assembly with a new electronic ignition system (Crane, Ignitor).

Thank you.
Russ Holder

Russ!

There are two types of Lucas Electronic Ignitions fitted as "original equipment" to the MGBs. The first system is the inbuilt OPUS Electronic Ignition. This unit has the amplifier unit built into the side of the distributor, the 45DE (Electronic). While the British Leyland Technical Service Bulletin #78-A-1, dated April 1978, states: "The electronic ignition systems on British Leyland vehicles have proved to be remarkably reliable," there are NONE left in working order!

The later system used a black amplifier mounted under the ignition coil. These systems rarely fail.

Myself, I prefer the 41427 "European spec" points style distributor, buy many, many people have had excellent success with the Pertronix system installed right into your original distributor.

Hope this helps a little.

John
Ignition78 Midget Ignition System
I have a 1978 midget that will not crank. It was running fine and I was working on the radio when I shorted a wire. The fuse blew and I replaced it and finished the job. When I tried to start the car it would not start. The engine turns fine, but there is no fire coming from the coil. I have checked the power at the coil, it is okay. The three wires going to the distributor have power on two and no power on the other one. When I turn the engine over no power comes out of the one that was dead to begin with. Do you have any suggestions on what to test at this point?

Is it better to change over to a point system or replace the electronic system? Either way, do you have the parts to fix it and what are the costs of parts.

Thank you for your time.

Jackie
Jackie!

I think what happened was just the luck of the draw (some luck!!). You must have an original, factory Lucas ignition system. That has three wires running to the distributor (WHITE, WHITE/BLUE, and WHITE/BLACK). The WHITE and the WHITE/BLUE power the ignition amplifier, the WHITE/BLACK switches the coil off and on. I would purchase either a 41427 points style distributor (about $150) -- OR -- a Pertonix electronic ignition. Moss Motors handles both of these parts.

Hope this helps!

John

IgnitionTiming Setting
I have a 73 B with origional V engine. Previous owner rebuilt 40 over. What timing setting should I use.? Thank you again.
Try 0.013" HOT on the valve lash; set the timing at 15 BTDC at 1500 rpm vacuum disconnected (it will pull forward to 30-40 degrees when you reconnect the vac line).

IgnitionTimings and Setting for 77B
I would really appreciate your help in the timings and settings for my 1977 MGBGT. I stripped my 5 main bearing engine down and had the block rebored to +20 thou got all the new bits to recon the motor and have after many months finally got it all back in place and over Easter have fired her up . The settings that I used were from the MG manuel and were as follows 1, points.0.35mm 2.plugs.0.89mm. 3.static timing 7*B.T.D.C. 4, Rocker valves cold 0.38mm.5, Idle speed 750rpm. I got the engine to run on these settings and once the new paint and oil had burned of it settled down and I adjusted the idle speed it ran not to bad . The engine no is 18v847-h152236 and chassi is no ghd5-431559g , I know the +20 pistons make the engine 1822cc so can you give me advise as to what settings you would use for the reconditioned engine . It has hif4 twin su,s type ece 15 fzx1229 carbs needles std acd. Also a lucas 45d4 distributor,we can only get 96 octain unleaded gas here so i use this with valve master adative to run it on. I'm not a mechanic im a carpenter so this engine stuff is a hobby to me I haven't stopped smiling yet that the engine started for me. Thanks in anticipation and thanks for all the tips in your Q&A section. John I have been looking and looking in your Q&A section hopeing to see your surgestions for my engine timings which I sent to you 29th march . I hope you do not mind me resubmitting my question as I dont want to do any harm to the engine, if you could help me out I would be very greatfull.Dave
David!

From 1954 (Z type Magnettes) to the last 1980MGBs, there are only two main settings for the B series engine. Quickly -- this are:

1) A distributor with about a 10 degree maximum mechanical advance. This distributor requires that the engine is set at about 20 BTDC at idle and that the vacuum is connected to the fitting on the carburetter (NOT the manifold). It make no difference whether the vacuum is connected or not when timing (better, though, to have it disconnected). This is the same as about a 7 BTDC static setting. Follow through here: 10 degrees on the distributor cam gives 20 on the crank; 10 degrees on the vacuum advance give 20 on the crank. So, the static of 7 plus the 20 at the mechanical plus 20 at the vacuum gives a theoretical maximum of about 47 degrees. In fact, the car runs best with an observed 30 degree advance at higher speeds.

2) A distributor with about a 20 degree maximum mechanical advance. This distributor requires that the engine is set at about 15 BTDC at 1500 rpm, vacuum disconnected. The vacuum is later connected to the INTAKE MANIFOLD. This is still about the same as the 7 BTDC static setting, but now we have 20 on the distributor cam or 40 on the crank. The vacuum advance works on deceleration and idle (high manifold depression), so the maximum advance, again, is about 47 degrees.

Which distributor do you have? The 45D4 defines only the type of unit, not the unit itself. You probably have a 41427 which takes points -- it's the "European" distributor. This one has 10 degrees crank (treat it as #1 above).

Hope this little bit helps!

John

IgnitionMGB DistributorHi John,
I am having trouble with a 25 D distributor on my '80 MGB. I took off a Mallory daul point that came with the car and put on a 25d. I checked all the wiring connections (green/white to + on coil, white/black to - on coil). I'm not getting a spark at the points, I've tried switching coils and condensers, but this doesn't help. Any ideas?

Thanks.
Dave
Dave!

You may have installed the points incorrectly. Stacked from the bottom upwards: plastic insulator, band from the points, condenser lead, low tension lead, plastic insulator, washer (if fitted), and nut. It is common to accidentally place the condenser and LT leads under the nut, sending the current from the coil right to earth.

Let me know what you find!

John
IgnitionDistributorsHi John,
I am having trouble with a 25 D distributor on my '80 MGB. I took off a Mallory daul point that came with the car and put on a 25d. I checked all the wiring connections (green/white to + on coil, white/black to - on coil). I'm not getting a spark at the points, I've tried switching coils and condensers, but this doesn't help. Any ideas?

You were right about the plastic insulators. That was causing the no spark problem. After I got the car running and set the timing, it just doesn't seem to have much power going up hills. It has a Weber carb on it (older one). The car was much faster with the Mallory, but I want to keep a stock setup on the car. I was thinking of putting daul HIFs on it. Does this sound like a good idea to you?


Thanks.
Dave
Dave!
You may have installed the points incorrectly. Stacked from the bottom upwards: plastic insulator, band from the points, condenser lead, low tension lead, plastic insulator, washer (if fitted), and nut. It is common to accidentally place the condenser and LT leads under the nut, sending the current from the coil right to earth.

There are two types of distributors, basically: 10 degree advance and 20 degree advance. You cannot know which you have until you remove the plates holding the points and peer down at the limiting finger on the distributor cam. It might be marked 10, 12, 13, 18 -- round down or up to get one of the two types.

The 10 degree distributor should be timed at 20 BTDC at idle and the vacuum hooked to ported vacuum -- available at the throttle disc on the carb.

The 20 degree distributor should be timed at 15 BTDC at 1500 vacuum disconnected -- then hook the vacuum to the intake manifold.

You may need a correction here to give you more power. Let me know how it works out!


John

IgnitionIgnition My problem came up at a Predawn Rally at 3:30am on a Sunday. I had
driven to pick up my navigator 45 min away with no problem other than I
noticed my Gas Gage read 1/2 full or 1/2 empty, what ever I had filled
it the day before so I new it was toped off, also the temp gage was
running half of the normal temp but it was very cool at 3:30am. So I
didn't give it much thought either.

So after driving with lights and radio going about 45 min. to pick up my
navigator and got to the starting point of the Rally where I again
turned off the car and it sat for 30 min, We started the rally, The car
started and I turned on the head lights and it began to have ignition
problems (no power and sputtering), after trying to drive about 1/2 mile
it was ready to die. We pulled over and restarted it by pushing it, but
as soon as the head lights came on trouble started again. I got the car
home with the help of the rally masters head lights from behind my
stealthy 1975B (drove home with out head lights 20Min.and it ran fine).

After the rally and the sun was up I started the car and it ran fine as
long as I didn't turn on the head lights, 10-30seconds after turning on
the head lights it would start to die, as soon as it started to have the
ignition prob the voltage in the battery droped like a rock and had to
be charged for 10 min.before it would restart and then it ran fine again
as long as the head lights remained off, All the gages started working
again and no problems with turn signals or hazard lights etc. After
looking everywhere for burnt, frayed and loose wires all I can come up
with is the Alternator?
Have you ever come across this before
Robert!

Several things hit me right away. #1 Service the battery.
Physically REMOVE the clamps from the battery, clean them, clean the posts,
even disconnect and reconnect the earth strap at the battery. #2 Disconnect
and reconnect all the BROWN wires at the bottom of the starter solenoid --
the main battery cable and the smaller BROWNs leading to all the electrical
equipment. #3 Remove and clean the fusebox (clean it in a sandblaster or
with acid or soda).

Now, after all this, does your ignition light work correctly? Does
it come on with the ignition ON, does it extinguish when you exceed 1000 rpm
(indicating that the alternator is charging?).

Let me know what this does or does not accomplish!

John
IgnitionFive DegreesJohn,

So the more the worm gear has worn, the deeper drive gear shaft will drop on to the cam gear. This would translate into a larger rise and fall and great degree of rotation. I am assuming the five degrees is from full down to full up against the distributor clamp plate. I am visualizing this from memory (I have owned this car for 33 years).
Also, what is the best way to test the tolerance on the drive gear? The 1970's autocross cam has about 15k miles on it so should be ok.

Rick


Rick!
To determine the rotational freeplay of the distributor drive gear: Remove the distributor; insert a long 5/16-24 bolt (perhaps one is available from the HS air cleaner?) and snug it into the drive gear. Clip a pair of Vise-grips to the bolt and turn it clockwise and anti-clockwise. As it rotates the gear also rises and falls. The question is: what is the total rotational freeplay? The closer the gear has been fitted to the distributor gear housing the less up and down slop there is on the gear. I would think that about five degrees would be optimal.

Further to our discussion -- you can reduce the up and down freeplay by 1) machining away the underside of the distributor drive housing; or 2) adding material to the bottom of the housing (at the gear contact point), but that requires some careful welding, turning, and facing. This is not my technique! I just learned it this spring at a tech seminar in Atlanta from Kent Prather.

John



IgnitionBest Distributor The engine that came with the 1970 "B" is really a '73 or '74 engine based on the numbers. Also, it is a 5 main bearing design.

I am rebuilding it since it was poorly taken care of. My question is since this is a "smog" car and pre catalytic convertor, is the cam shaft ground to a low rise and duration as many American cars were in those 2 years? If so, I would like to replace it with a pre '73 / 74 cam shaft to get the better performance that would be offered by an earlier cam. Can you recommend a replacement?

I am not looking for anything other than stock, but earlier cams put in American "smog" cars greatly improved the performance. Would this require any change in distributor weights for advance?

Rich
Rich!

The earlier MGB camshaft - 252 degrees duration, is an excellent cam. It opens at 16 BTDC and closes at 56 ABDC. These cam timing specs were changed later on, retarding the cam's operation to increase tailpipe temperature.

You can go up to about 270 degrees and still have an engine which does not idle too lumpy. The original cam lift was 0.265 (although all the books say 0.250) and that is satisfactory.

The best distributor was the 40893 -- giving a total of 10 distributor degrees by about 2000 distributor rpm. The vacuum advance was connected to the carbs. The original distributor for the 1973 is not a bad unit, but it's timed 15 BTDC at 1500 vacuum disconnected (hooked later to the intake manifold). In both cases, timing should not exceed 32 degrees, high rpm, vacuum disconnected.

Hope this helps.

John
IgnitionFailing IgnitionI own a 1979 MGB and I am fairly certain that my ignition system is
failing.
It is a lumenition system. I have looked for a replacement lumenition
system but have not found one. Is it still available? Where could I
purchase a new one? If it is not available is there a system that you
would
recommend? Crane? Petronix? Other? Thanks for your help.

Howard!

I do believe that Crane bought out Lumenition. Myself, I prefer
the Pertronix Ignitor. But remember that electronic ignition systems will
all eventually fail -- usually at an inopportune time. My advice is to
purchase two and keep one in the glovebox or your toolbox in the car.

Hope this helps!

John
IgnitionLarger Gap for Spark PlugsI read that you like to gap the spark plugs on the XPAG at .035, I have
them gapped at .025, (Champion L7) My car is missing like crazy, it
starts fine but when I hit the gas it misses very badly. I have thought
the carb needle was stuck and have took all this apart and pput back
together carbs seem ok. I have fooled with mixture, idle speed etc.
I have some L86s< any ideas? should I change gap? replace with L86s?

thanks
Michael
Michael!

My experience with the plugs is that they have less a chance of fouling with that larger gap. However, if the coil is original, sometimes the spark isn't strong enough to bridge that larger gap. The solution -- fit a newer coil (Lucas DLB 101).

Missing on acceleration can also be caused by a lean mixture (enrichen the carbs) or by too light of an oil in the dashpot (I now use 90 weight to account for years of wear between the damper and the dashpot). It can also be caused by too small of a point gap (use 0.015").

Let me know what you found!

John

IgnitionGet Spark Plug into SocketJohn,

I have a 1979 midget, how on earth do you get the number 1 cylinder spark plug out the socket will not insert as it's right behind the alternator. Thanks in advance.


--
Kyle
Kyle!

You have to move the alternator! Handy, isn't it? Remember that this is a Triumph engine shoehorned into an MG with all the associated pollution control equipment. Even loosening the alternator can be a task. When refitting the alternator, use the longest fanbelt you can get.

You know, we have a 3/8" drive 13/16" socket that we've cut down specifically for fitting this application.

Hope this helps!

John

IgnitionTiming Advance, Higher Output Coil?Mr. Twist,

I recently installes a Weber DGEV into my 79'Midget. After addressing the usual intake vac. leak and the ventilation problem(pressure buildup in the engine, causing oil to seep from unusaul places..), which I'm still fighting, I was told to plug off the vac. advance on the dist. and the carb, as Webers don't work well with vac. advance. I'm running a 25D dist. with a Pertronix unit, and after advancing the timing to about 16 dgrees, noticed the engine pulled a lot better under acceleration than before. My question is, with the Pertronix and Weber being the only mod., would there be any real benefit from a higher output coil? If so, larger plug gap(running spec right now), and I do plan on an aftermarket exhaust header.
Any other suggestions for a peppier 1500?

Jim!

There are four links in the chain: emissions, engine, ignition, and carburetion.

Make sure that the engine has plenty of chance to vent into the air cleaner. Otherwise the oil gets contaminated and the engine fails prematurely.

You should have a 0.010" valve lash and the compression should be consistent within 10%. I'd run Champion RN12Y plugs gapped at 0.035". Make sure that the thermostat (which controls the BOTTOM end of the temp range) is high enough (at least 180F) to allow the engine to come up to operating temp quickly.

You should time the engine at 32 degrees BTDC at about 4500 rpm. This is the maximum timing for an MGB engine and although your engine is a little more "square" -- the bore and stroke are closer to the same distances -- I think that 32 would be good. A Pertonix switching unit can afford you a couple of hp instead of points. BUT! And this is IMPORTANT the 25D distributor you have might be all wrong for your application. See if you can get a number from the unit (41155 for example) and get that number to me. Another coil will do nothing -- absolutely nothing -- from the standpoint of performance, assuming yours is working correctly (which they nearly always are).

Come attend our "Tuning for Speed" seminar !

John
IgnitionCorrect DistributorJohn,

While ordering parts, I found that I have an older standard ignition - 25D Distributor. The Vicotria British catalog indicates that this should only be on model years 1962 through 1974. My roadster is a 1979 and I would expect to have a 45DE or 45DM Electronic Ignition Distributor.

I was wondering if possibly I have an older engine in my car. I know that this car has been raced at some time in the past and I'm wondering if an older, higher compression ratio engine is installed.

The VIN on the top of the dash is GHN5UL 481306G. The engine S/N is18V883AEL032559. An additional number found under the hood at the cross member with the hood latch is GU23T 967447P.

Is there a cross reference somewhere that can tell me the vintage of this engine and if it could have been the original engine for a 1979??

Thanks,

Doug

Doug!

I can tell you from experience that you have an original engine -- and if not the original engine to your car, at least one within a year of your production. That 18V883 prefix is 1977-1980.

There are about twenty distributors! Some are the 25D, point style; some are 45D, point style; and some are 45DE, electronic. For your car to PERFORM correctly, you must know which distributor you have so you can set the timing accordingly. If you can get the number from the side of the distributor (eg 41155) I can tell you from which year that distributor was taken (although it might be a Midget, an Austin America, who knows?). In the end, however, you should time the car at full advance -- that is 32 degrees BTDC at about 4500 rpm. Vacuum to manifold or carb? Depends on the advance of the cam inside the distributor -- a number from 10-18 stamped on the limiting finger of the distributor cam. Let me know what you find and I'll help you get this timed.

Hope this helps!

John
IgnitionMGB PetronixJohn:
I have two questions/problems with my 1968 mgb
roadster.
1) I recently installed a petronix ignition in the
car. It started and ran fine, although I felt the
timing was a little slower. I took it for a test
drive to the local hardware store about 2 miles away.
On the way back, about 500 yards from home, the car
quit and would not start. I walked home and returned
with the points and multimeter determined to find the
problem. When I opened the hood with the ignition on,
the white wire from the tach to the coil was cooking
and melting the insulation. I changed out the
petronix for the points and the car started and ran
fine, except I noticed that the tach was no longer
working. By the time I got home, the tach was
smoking. I removed the tach and opened the case to
see that the white wire where coiled around the pickup
coil had melted the insulation and done the same to
the pickup coil. The tach had recently been rebuilt
and had been working fine. I suspect that problem
started while the wire overheated with the petronix
installed.(Although the reason it had been rebuilt was
that I believe the prior owner had had a similar
problem with the tach overheating. Perhaps an
intermittent short somewhere within the wiring loom?)
I somehow doubt that as I recently drove the car on a
1500 mile trip with out any problem.
I am absolutely positive that the petronix was
installed correctly.
My question - is the petronix incompatible with the
in line tachometer, or can you suggest some other
reason for the failure. The car runs fine now with
the tach out of the car,and the tach wires jumped
together - although I know I have to replace those
tach white wires from the ignition switch to the tach
to the coil.

2) Although the car runs well at moderate speeds, when
on the open highway at speeds above 60-65mph the car
has started to exhibit an intermittent loss of power
with an accompanying smell of gasoline. After first
noticing that problem, I just happenned to replace the
inline fuel filter and the problem went away for what
I would guess was about three tanks of fuel. On the
road, when it happens, the road noise is too great to
determine if the loss of power is one cylinder
misfiring, or just a general rough running situation.
Do you have any idea of what this problem is. I do
have carb rebuild kits to install. It has never
happenned at slower speeds even when accelerating
through the gears.
I would appreciate any help you could give me on the
above problems.
Thanks,
John

John!

Those Pertronix units are very durable -- but there is a failure rate, of course. If yours went continuous then the coil would begin to heat up, but to have the WHITE wire begin smoking -- that's pretty unusual. It must have been the Pertronix since it worked OK after you changed back to the points.
the power moves from the key, through the impulse loop, through the coil, into the distributor. Odd.

When you called today we discussed the bad running. Again, it's the floats shaking or vibrating and allowing the carbs to flood. Hence it runs poorly and you get the smell of gasoline. Fix this by tightening the hinges with pliers. ensure that the distance from the float to the float bowl lid is 1/8-3/16".

Good luck!

John
IgnitionPlatinum PlugsHello John!

Why do you not like platinum plugs?

Best regards,

John
John!

I've never received as many letters as I did about my choice of plugs. It is my experience that the platinum plugs foul more quickly in our engines. If you experience is different, stay with what you have!

John
IgnitionTimingJohn:
Are you saying to set the timing at a high speed of 4000rpms and 24 degrees before tdc, don't you set it at a lower speed and tdc? I have very few marks on my car to set it to.
Wayne
Wayne!

You can use zero static with an test light; you can use 24 or 25 max at 4000 rpm with a dialback timing light.

John
IgnitionElectrontic IgnitionHi John,

I have a 1976 MGB with California specifications, I recently rebuilt the engine. Before I had a problem with the starter but thanks to you it has been fixed. The starter has a good cracking speed, but the engine won’t start, I noticed no spark in the spark plug. I used an Ignition spark check; I confirmed I don’t have spark in spark plug. It looks like I have a Lucas 45D distributor. Distributor cap, rotor and cables are new. I proceed to check the white and light green wire going into the + of the coil with a 12 volt test lamp and power is going into it. With the ignition on I checked the white and brown wire going into the fuse box and both have power. Then I replaced the coil with another one, still doing the same. The prior owner removed the point and condenser it and replaced with an electronic ignition kit with a black box. The black box I turned over, on the label does not have any information about model num. or the serial num. only states it was made by Allison Automotive co. and produced Aug 1, 1983. Also has instruction of installation I verified the installation is it corrects. (red wire into the + of the coil, the black wire into – of coil and purple wire ground), are three thin wire coming out of distributor 1 black , gray and white. Another female connection from the old system with three wires one is white with blue, white and white with black but this wire doesn’t have any male connection. I don’t know how to troubleshoot this electronic ignition kit; do you think this electronic ignition could be the problem with missing spark? Or is there another check I could do?
Thank you very much again
Jorge





Jorge,

All you can do with an electronic ignition that is not working is this:
1) Ensure the amplifier wiring is correct -- Red power, Purple earth, and Black to the rear side of the coil.
2) Ensure that the original wiring plug (white, white/blue,white/black) from the original wiring loom is not grounded out or shorted or connected to something else.
3) Ensure that the wiring from the amplifier to the distributor (that three wire loom) has good connections.
4) Ensure that the wheel? or magnetic pickup in the distributor is aligned or close to the pickup head.

This all assumes that you've checked the wire coming from the distributor and that there is no spark there. If there is then the problem lies in the cap/rotor/wires.

After all of this, if it still doesn't work, buy points or if it's a 45DE distributor, purchase the Pertronix unit (buy two -- one for a backup!).

Hope this helps!

John
IgnitionNo Spark at PlugsJohn, once again, thanks for your support. I have a '73 MGBGT that won't start. I have spark from the coil (new coil), spark at the points when they open but no spark at the plugs. I have transferred known good parts from another car (cap, rotor, wires and new plugs). Still no spark at the plugs. Any thoughts? Thanks.


Mike
Mike!

For the engine to start you must have spark, fuel, and compression. Just for fun, make sure you have plenty of fuel. Remove the fuel line from the carb, place it into a can, turn on the ignition, and ensure that you receive one pint of fuel per minute.

Remove the center coil lead from the dist cap, hold it up close to something metallic (eg, the coil), have your associate spin the engine. You should have a nice crisp 1/4" spark from the coil wire. If you don't, then work with the points/condenser. If you do, then that should travel through the rotor and out to the spark plug wire.

I check spark by fitting one spark plug lead onto the shank of a Phillips screwdriver. Hold the screwdriver by the wooden or plastic handle and place the shank next to something metallic. Spinning the engine over should give a pretty nice, blue, spark.

Hope this helps.

John
IgnitionTiming 32 degreesJohn I read with interest your recommendations, in MGB driver, for timing B engines at 32 degrees at 4500 rpm with vacuum disconnected.

I tried this, as I have been suspicious of incorrect timing since we re-started the B after a 30 year sit.

However, I cannot get a good feel as to how I should determine that I have reached 32 degrees, my damper and timing cover marks do not go this high.

There must be a simple explanation that I am not seeing, can you explain?

Thanks you in advance for your help.

Norm Peacey
Norm,


You are correct -- there are not enough marks to find 32 BTDC without a dial back timing light. I believe there are enough marks to get to 20 BTDC (each is five degrees). So, turn the engine until the timing mark on the pulley is at 20 BTDC and place a mark on the pulley at TDC with a paint pencil. Now you can view the timing with a standard timing light by setting the painted mark to 12 BTDC maximum. That 12 plus the original 20 will give you the 32.

Hope this helps.

John
IgnitionRemoving Distributor HousingGreetings John!

The camshaft for my 1969 MG-B engine arrived on time . I have begun the rather long process of
dismantling the engine. All has gone very smoothly with one exception. That is, to remove the distributor housing one must remove a single screw that threads into the right side of the block. Well, that screw refuses, at this point, to budge. The slot is very shallow so great care must be exercised so as not to strip that slot. I am soaking the screw with BP Blaster. I am very hesitant to use heat, but it may be necessary. I'd sincerely appreciate any advice and suggestions for removing the retaining screw and keeping it in good condition.

Most Cordially--

David
David!

Use a heavy duty screwdriver in the slot, then give the screwdriver a couple of heavy cracks with your hammer. That will set the blade of the screwdriver more deeply into the head of the screw, and it will shock the screw loose. This works EVERY time!

John
IgnitionMaximum AdvanceHi John:



I have spoken with you several times over the phone over the past many years and you have always given sound advice. You have helped me with distributor questions in the past, as well as a problem I had with a hesitation at
3300 - 3600 rpm, and I (we) have made progress over the years in making my "73 MGB run better. I have had to replace my distributor a couple of times over the years before I knew that the bushing could be replaced and the
original distributor rebuilt. I currently have a 25D and 45D that will both run in my car (neither are correct for my year of MGB or may not even have been for an MGB). I have had both tested on a distributor machine and the
25D has 28 degrees of mechanical advance at 4000 rpm and the 45D has 22 degrees at 2200 rpm. I have used 32-34 degrees as a maximum advance (as per your advice as well as published in Peter Burgess's book) and have set the
static accordingly not to exceed this value. Manifold vacuum is attached and functioning, but only plays a roll at lower rpm and is a non-issue at higher rpm, therefore max advance should not be exceeded, as I understand
it. The car seems to run better with the 45D. The car has a mild cam, some head and port mods as per instructions from Peter Burgess and the compression ratio is about 8.7:1.

I was looking through some old notes and correspondence last night and found a note I had written to you many years ago asking similar questions and in your reply you said, "...you need 20 -25 degrees at idle but maximum advance by 3000 -3500 rpm is 45 degrees." My question now is which value is the maximum advance that should not be exceeded, 32 - 34 degrees or 45 degrees?

Thanks for your help.

Cheers, Rob
Rob,

My old figures were wrong. The proper advance for the distributor is 32 MAX, vacuum disconnected. That 45D distributor will give you a better advance at the lower speeds.

Hope this helps!

John
IgnitionMisfireHi John.

I've a friend here in Lincoln, an older gentlemen, who has a '70 MGB, a later one, that develops a misfire in 3rd gear (4th also) at about 3500 RPM. He has done, or had done, the following things. New condenser, new distributor (Pertronix), rebuilt the alternator and checked the ground strap from the engine. The car runs fine until about 3500 revs in 3rd gear. At that point the car cuts out, the tach needle wavers, and the charge light comes in in the tach.

A few of us were trying to help him with it today, but we had no luck. In desperation I ran a ground from the tach to the frame with no effect. Any idea what we are missing? (We have already taken turns calling ourselves dummies, and are braced for something simple. Any advice or friendly insults are both solicited and accepted.

Thanks, John.

Bob
Bob,

I believe there is a problem with the HOT side of the ignition circuit, not the EARTH side. It is not uncommon for the main power wires at the starter solenoid to loosen or fracture from work hardening. Check all those connections there. Additionally, although I doubt it, there could be a problem with the connections right under the dash -- the main loom into the ignition switch loom -- BROWN and WHITE. The fact that the alternator light illuminates with the bouncing tach tells me that the ignition circuit is being interrupted -- opening -- and these are the two most common places to find it.

John
IgnitionDistributorsHi John,

A brief question for you. I'm installing a 1800 GA motor in my 57' MGA. The distributor (DM2) from the original 1500 motor is in excellent condition. Can I use the DM2 distributor with the 1800 motor without a loss of performance?




Martin
Martin,

YES, you can use the MGA distributor, The later, MGB has a slightly different advance curve, but if you time it with a dial back timing light at 32 BTDC at about 4000 rpm, vacuum disconnected, then it will run great.


John
IgnitionDistributor ProblemsDear Mr. Twist,

What would cause my 1975 MGB to hesitate at 2000 to 2500 RPMs in any gear? I have recently given the car a complete tune-up, replaced the Stromberg carburetor with the side draft weber.


Thank You,

Randy
Randy,

The most common problem since this occurs at an rpm and not at a
certain speed, would be a problem in/with the distributor. Since so many of
these distributors have been changed since new, let me know the type of
distributor you have (numbers off the side) and I'll give you correct timing
instructions.

John
IgnitionLucas Distributor Point GappingJohn,


The distributor is a Lucas 41599B4504 4274. After removing it to get the number I checked the points and regapped to .016 inches the car idle was really low. I readjusted the idle to 900 RPMs. The dwell is 44 degrees, but I am noticing condensation on the aluminum spacer that came with the side draft weber carburetor I installed. When revving the engine to 2000 - 2500 RPM the engine feels less smooth.

Thank You for your help!
Randy



Randy,

That distributor is a 45D4 and should have a point gap of 0.015" for
a dwell of about 52 degrees. Set the timing at 15 before top dead center at
1500, vacuum disconnected. See how that works.

John
IgnitionPetronix Vs. Points I have a 64 MGB that the previous owner installed with a Pertronix
electronic ignition.

I would like to change it back to a normal (and reliable) points/
condenser setup.

is there any step-by-step literature you could recommend that
would help me do this? I am unsure what parts may have been
discarded when he installed the electronic setup.

(or, if necessary, could I remove the distributor, cap, coil etc
and send to you for repair..).
All you would need is a new LT lead, points and a condenser. The
Pertonix adds 2 HP to the rear wheels. I ran points in my MGA
from 1976 until last year, when I switched. I am convinced that
they fail far less than points and condensers. You could buy a
second Pertonix and leave it in your car to be safe. I do not
drive around with an extra one in the car but carry many other
spare parts. If you still decide to put points back into your car
you need to take the distributor out of the car.
IgnitionMGB Distributor Rotor Failure have a '72 MGB with the original (I believe) distributor. My problem is that the rotors keep failing. I'll be driving along and suddenly the car will stop. I simply get out, replace the rotor with a new spare that I carry along and I'm happily back on the road. I cannot find any cracks on the failed rotor or other physical reason for the failure. I have tried Lucas rotors from Moss and aftermarket rotors from Discount Auto with the same results. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to the failures that I have observed. For example, I drove all the way to MG2006 in Gatlinburg and back (1400 miles roundtrip), then around my home area for months with no failures. Then another day, it failed just a block from home. (I've learned to carry a few spares in the boot!)
About four or five years ago there were a number of these rotors that failed. Not only are these rotors common to the MGB, but to the MGA and T types, let alone a host of other British vehicles.

Some surmised, at that time, that the inside diameter of the rotors were too small and, when pushed and seated onto the distributor cam, they cracked and allowed a short between the brass contact and the distributor cam below. I never completely accepted this theory, but I could not come up with a better one.

Another theory is that the ignition coils put out too much voltage and the spark seeks and finds an earth by shorting through the plastic. Do you have a high voltage ignition coil?

Again, this was a problem in the past, but is now pretty rare. This makes me believe the problem is between your coil and the resistance in your spark plug wires rather than in the rotor. But -- bottom line -- I do not have a definitive answer for you.
IgnitionIgnition SwitchI recently replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch (1980 MGB0) in hopes of getting more of a "springy return" when moving the key from the start to run position but no luck. This switch seems to hang more than the previous one and requires a manual move back to the "run" position. The starter and both ignition and starter relays have recently been replaced. Is this spring mechanism located in the locking portion of the switch?
The key tumbler rotates freely for a full 180 degrees. You can check that out when you have the electrical switch out of the unit.

The electrical switch as a very strong rotary spring that keeps the switch from remaining in the START position.

The tumbler has a shaft, in the shape of a bow-tie, that extends left from the tumbler and fits into a female slot in the switch. After a long period of use, the plastic in the electrical switch gets chewed up and the shaft from the tumbler can no longer rotate the switch -- and instead of turning the switch it all just jams up.

The only real solution is to bite the bullet and purchase a tumbler AND the electrical switch as a unit (now around $200 I think). I wish I had a less expensive solution for you!

We used to have a lock shop here in Grand Rapids and Arlene, the locksmith, would disassemble our tumblers and extend that bowtie. It always took a lot of work. Another option we've used in a pinch is to fill the slot in the switch with JB weld, then push the unit into the tumber and let it set up. But, if too much of that epoxy oozes into the switch or tumbler, then nothing turns -- so be careful!
IgnitionHigh Voltage CoilFor a Mark 1 MGB with standard points ignition (positive ground), does it help in starting and/or performance to mount a Lucas High Voltage Sports Coil?

Is the sports coil's higher voltage detrimental to the life of the rotor, points, and cap?

Do you need to increase the gap of the plugs? Any advantage to increasing the plug gap?
This is my opinion. You'll meet others with opposing opinions, I'm sure.

You cannot get something for nothing. The something here is a hotter spark. To get a hotter spark you have to run more current though the points. More current heats up the points and melts them (rarely); more current leads to shorter point life; the extra voltage induces a higher primary voltage at point opening and pushes the limits of the capacitor. All this to get more spark.

You don't need more spark. The regular 12 volt coil is wonderfully satisfactory for regular road use. I gap my plugs at 0.035" with a regular coil anyway.

The extra spark will find faults in the rotor and cap more quickly than a regular coil.

I do not use a high voltage coil myself, nor do I recommend using one to my customers.
IgnitionTiming ChangeOn a trip last week the timing went completely off... we weren't doing anything unusual. Just shut the car off. When we tried to restart the car the next day, it would start, but just barely and ran extremely rough. I had the timing light along and checked it. It was way off. The pulley mark was way clockwise of the timing marks. I adjusted the distributor back to 10 degrees BTDC at 1500 and it ran just fine. We drove it about 70 miles and as I was driving I noticed the idle speed was increasing at each idle. When I got home, I checked timing again, and this time the timing mark was way counterclockwise of the timing mark.

Do I have a distributor problem or a timing chain problem or something else. Can you help point me in the right direction? Original engine with no modifications. Distributor clamp was tight.
It's easier to tell you what ISN'T the problem than to diagnose it sitting here in front of this computer screen. It is not the timing chain; it is not the distributor drive gear. If the distributor is not moving then the problem must be in the distributor itself. The only two things that come to mind are: the plate holding the pick-up is moving; or the advance mechanism is frozen. There is no substitute to removing the distributor, placing it in the jaws of your bench vise (carefully!) and testing the advance mechanism and fiddling with the pickup device (whatever that may be).
Ignition'77 MGB TimingI have static timed the engine following the installation of a Euro-spec Distributor with a Petronix Ignitor. According to the Emission Sticker on the vehicle (1977 MGB), the Dynamic Timing should be set at 10 degrees BTDC @ 1500 RPM, and the carburetor should be adjusted for a CO idle emission level of 5 1/2 (+ or -) 1% . Are these still good numbers to use?

Set the timing at 20 BTDC at idle, or 32 MAX, vacuum disconnected. If you connect the vac advance to the intake manifold you're engine will idle VERY nicely. It should be connected to the high speed port on the Stromberg -- that little brass tube at the top, rear, but the manifold makes idle so much better.
IgnitionW & W/B Wires On The Coili have a 70 mgb gt
2 wires white and white black. where do they go on coil. also,removerd points and connector on side of dizzy. petronics replaced with red wire and black wire. wiring diagrams and other 70,s are all wired different.
your expertise would help me get gt(love gt'sa0 running
The white goes to the + on the coil and the W/B goes on the - terminal. The red wire goes on the + terminal and the black goes on the -.
IgnitionIgnition System TroubleI am currently working on my 1980 MGB LE which I have had since 1983. I am having some trouble with the ignition and would like to test the magnetic induction pick up. Is there a impedance test which will show me if the pick up is working? I do not have the OPUS electronic ignition system. I have the 2 wire system with the amplifier mounted to the inner fender. Also, do you know what the air gap on the star wheel should be adjusted to?

I think I read somewhere that this system is a GM item and that it is available at any automotive store. Do you know if this is true?

There is no impedance test, however the most common problem is broken wires. The CEI is the black box under the coil. If you have three wires going to the distributor, it is most likely faulty. The air gap is set to ten thousandths. We have never heard of the GM part but that does not mean it is not possible.

IgnitionBent Distributor CB PlateI was just wondering, after acidentally breaking the low tension lead on a 25d distributor I pulled the unit and noticed that the points only touch the cam when on the corner of it (the place that the points open). I am under the impression that the points should contact the cam at all times. Am I correct in this assumption? In the event that I am correct, would you suggest that I have a bad set of points, or otherwise.

As a bit of bacground I have previously dissasembled the distributor and cleaned and lubed it. This was done while I overhauled the engine. I am a competent mechanic, and have British car experience (via english motors), but could very well have made a mistake.

I was also wondering if you might be able to sell me a set of advance springs, as the originals have seen better days, and one shows obvious signs of fatigue. I have 1 3/4 su carbs, and a mild performance reground cam, and use the car mostly for track days. I hate to bother you for a relativley inexpensive set of springs, as I am sure you are rather busy. However I would enjoy hearing back from you to know whether I am headed in the right direction or not.
There is the base plate and there is the CB (contact breaker) plate. As the CB plate rotates on he base plate (when the vacuum advance works), it eventually wears a slot in the base plate and the little cylindrical "T" on the CB plate gets quite a notch worn in it, too. A combination of this wear allows the CB plate to sit on a dramatic angle -- and allows the cam rider to hit the distributor cam on only one end. To sort this out, rotate the cylindrical "T" on the CB plate, and use your hammer, carefully, to bend that "T" so that the plates do sit horizontally. I've got a YouTube video (find them in their search engine at "universitymotorsltd") about setting the points. That may be helpful.

I have a number of springs but they now have to be selectively fitted while using a distributor machine to map the advance. I can re-curve your distributor about $200 -- it takes two hours, easily! - plus there are always "issues" with the bearing, the cam, etc, etc. You know, you can gain about 2hp with Pertronix ignition, and smooth out the running with an MSD ignition.
Ignition1952 TD TimingI would like to check timing in my '52 TD but shop manual does not say what the advance should be at idle speed, mine is running about 5-7 degrees. is this ok or should it be more? Of the three choices to set the timing (static, idle, and maximum advance), the idle is the worst choice. You can set the timing at zero, static. That's factory specification and it's a good number to use. The distributor, the 40152, has a 16 degree cam, which gives 32 degrees at the crank on full advance (about 4000 rpm).
IgnitionDistributor RotorMy MGC distributor cap contact points are worn, seems the rotor must be hitting them. The spindle that the rotor sits on does not move side to side, indicating that the bearing is worn, but there is up and down movement of about ¼ inch. Is this normal? Jay! If the rotor is actually hitting the cap, then there is some sort of alignment problem. But, it is not uncommon for some metal to be lost during the arcing which normally occurs. With the cap on the distributor, the rotor should not make any noise, nor should you feel any ticking, as the rotor passes each pickup on the cap. If all the lugs are worn evenly, then it's probably "normal" wear. If some are distinctly shaved, and some are not, then the shaft is not true to the center of the cap and something needs alignment. The vertical play is proper.

IgnitionTiming IssueI have a beautiful blue 1980 MGB that is in near perfect condition. I am having a problem with timing that I hope you can help me with.

On a trip last week the timing went completely off... we weren't doing anything unusual. Just shut the car off. When we tried to restart the car the next day, it would start, but just barely and ran extremely rough. I had the timing light along and checked it. It was way off. The pulley mark was way clockwise of the timing marks. I adjusted the distributor back to 10 degrees BTDC at 1500 and it ran just fine. We drove it about 70 miles and as I was driving I noticed the idle speed was increasing at each idle. When I got home, I checked timing again, and this time the timing mark was way counterclockwise of the timing mark.

Do I have a distributor problem or a timing chain problem or something else. Can you help point me in the right direction? Original engine with no modifications. Distributor clamp was tight.
It's easier to tell you what ISN'T the problem than to diagnose it sitting here in front of this computer screen. It is not the timing chain; it is not the distributor drive gear. If the distributor is not moving then the problem must be in the distributor itself. The only two things that come to mind are: the plate holding the pick-up is moving; or the advance mechanism is frozen. There is no substitute to removing the distributor, placing it in the jaws of your bench vise (carefully!) and testing the advance mechanism and fiddling with the pickup device (whatever that may be).
InteriorSun VisorHi John, I have watched a BUNCH of your videos and am a fan just from those - Here's a question I can't find the answer to. I bought a 1980 B without sun visors. I have the visors, but can't figure out the installation. I don't have a socket tiny enough to fit inside the mount. Can you help? Sadly there is no MG enthusiast resource in the Lubbock area. I have wanted one since I was in High School and have not been disappointed! Will Will! Use a 1/4" drive 3/8" deep socket. That will do you! I counsel my customer to simply remove them -- they foul clear vision through the windscreen -- but in the Lone Star State with all that sun..... perhaps you're being prudent. Hope this helps!
InteriorSeatbeltsJohn,

Was reading your post on the MG BBS re seatbelts. I have an MGA I'm doing the floors/carpets on right now, and it only has dodgy lap belts. I would really prefer to have three point belts, but can't find out how to fit them or what type to fit. There doesn't appear to be a good place to mount these as the belt should affix higher than the shoulder, not below it. Would you have any advice?

Thanks,
Neil
--
61 A / 70 BGT / 68 CGT/ 56 BN2

NEIL!

We use the three point belts offered by Moss Motors. They come with a hook so they can be attached and unattached without any difficulty. This is my method of fixing the shoulder strap.

Locate the rearmost bolt fixing the rear fender onto the body whose captive nut lies within the cockpit -- it's about the fifth nut back from the front. Remove this bolt and substitute a much longer bolt -- say 1 1/2". You will have to thread it all the way down the shank (5/16-24). The protruding threaded portion of this bolt is now your anchor for the seat belt shoulder harness. Fit a couple of large fender washers, then double nut the end of the bolt. Now, simply hook the belt between the fender washers.

Hope this helps!
InteriorCarpet Another question I did want to ask you. I am going to recarpet and got some info from British Parts Locator from Woonsocket, RI. Have you ever heard of them or used any of the carpet kits they manufacture?

Denny Bavery

DENNY!

We had a customer who purchased the "economy" carpet set -- it took us about a WEEK to fit it! The "high priced" set is a much better deal. You might consider spending a little more than the US "high priced" set and purchase a kit from England -- these come with steamed, CAREFULLY fitted wheel arch pieces and tunnels -- they're real beauties. Perhaps I can offer a name if you call me 1-2pm EST Mon-Fri.
InteriorRemoving SeatJohn:
Can't believe I am asking this stupid question.
Have 64 B how the heck do you get the driver seat off the track to replace cushion? Can get left side off but right will not come off. Must be missing the obvious here.

Thanks,

Dave Gates

DAVID!

It is necessary to remove the four bolts securing the seat tracks to the floor, and then lift the whole works out. Best to have purchased new wood rails and spacers before beginning this work. The bolts are 1/4-28 with 7/16 heads. While the rear ones are usually OK to work with, the front ones can be rusted very badly!

Removal of the seat is relatively easy -- but installation, with the two slides dangling, the wood pieces moving all around, the spacers falling out of place -- well, it can be an exciting experience!

SAFETY FAST!
InteriorSeatsJohn:

I am looking to purchase a '68 C-GT and the seats are vinyl with a cloth
insert. It looks like regulation. The owner told me that the car was
originally purchased to go to South Carolina and the dealer was able to
get
"tropical" seats which was an option, although not one mentioned in the
book. Would you know if there was such a thing or where I could find out?

Thank you

John Cohn

John!

I have in front of me the MGC Body Parts List AKD 5067. Of the
seats listed, there is NO reference to a "tropical" seat, and all the seats
appear to be of the same type of construction. But, there are many
surprises in the world of MG! Contact Tom Boscarino who is in the cc line.
Perhaps Tom can shed some light on this.

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist, Service Manager
Interiormga carpetingHello can you suggest what carpeting is good for my MGA the last time I purchased some was 20yrs ago and it was not the best I want to see if a better quality is available Roy S.

Roy!

I got so far behind in my correspondence this summer that only now am I working backwards to try to answer most of the questions. You've obviously replaced your carpeting by now -- what did you use -- who did you buy it from -- were you satisfied? I've got the Moss Deluxe kit in mine -- but it's not the same as that old wool, jute backed stuff!

John
InteriorReplacing DashboardDear John,

Cheers from Canada. I am in the market for an MGB and found your excellent site. I was hoping you could help with a couple of questions: I recently looked at a nice 69 which had the padded, glovebox-less dash. Is it possible to replace the fascia with the earlier steel version or later post-72 dash with the glovebox, or is it too much bother?

Also what are your thoughts on the 3 synchro gear box vs the four, and the relative merits of overdrive. Up til now I've been fairly picky, but am having difficulty in finding a suitable car. My preference is 65-67 (5 bearing engine without the padded dash) or a 73-74 pre-rubber bumper model.

Anyway any advice would be appreciated. Thanks and cheers.

Regards,

Gordon

Gord!

Changing a dash is a LOT of trouble! I would find a car with the dash you like. My preferences for MGBs are first, the 73/74 MGB because they're the nicest, most refined chrome bumpered MGBs, then the 77-80 because they're the nicest rubber bumper models, then the 63-67 (they're very Spartan -- no amenities). I am not keen on the 68-71's, I don't like the dash; and I'm not keen on the 75-76 because they are not tuned well, nor do they have a good suspension. Buy the one you want -- don't try to create it.

The 1968 and newer have the all synchro gearboxes. These boxes are very good, very durable, and excellent in every way. They hardly ever fail. The three-synchro boxes eventually lose first gear (after second gear synchro has failed).

Hope this helps!

John

Thanks, John, for your prompt an helpful reply. A quick follow up: how much of a plus is the overdrive, or rather how much should one devalue a car not having it? Thanks again.

Gord

Gord!

Well, adding overdrive AFTER you buy the car would cost nearly $2000. But it certainly should add $500 or so to the value.

John
InteriorAMCO Center Arm RestHello,
I am looking for an AMCO center arm rest console for a 68/69/70 MGB. This is the full length center console with the clock in the front.

If you have one for sale, or know where I might find one I would appreciate it.

Thank You
Larry
Larry!

Sorry, I don't have anything. Use the "shotgun" approach -- write EVERY MG advertiser in Hemmings, British Car, Classic MG, and the various club publications -- include a picture and a self addressed, stamped envelope. You'll spend a hundred dollars in the search, but in the end you'll have a couple to choose from. Don't make phone calls, as the time and cost will eat you up!

Hope this helps!

John

Interiorlock ringshi i'm replacing the dash on my dads 77 mgb and i cant find the lock rings for the turn signal indicator lights or the same lock rings for the hazard,high beam ,ignition indicator lights .do you have these lock rings or do you know where i might find them?Byron!

I believe a small dollop of clear silicone sealant would hold these in place for a long, long time -- and it would allow you to remove them if necessary at a later time.

You're looking for "push nuts" or "speed nuts" but I'd only have used ones.

Let me know when you find something!

John

InteriorReplace DashI have a 68MGB, hate the padded dash and would like to replace with 67 dash which I love.
Do you have all the parts for purchase?
How difficult is the change?

Thanks

Steve
Steve!

While "all" modifications are possible on our MGs, I want to tell you that on a scale of 0-10, this one rates about a 9.5. The MGB body is not shaped to accept the steel dash.

So, you have two options: Clean up your car, sell it, and purchase a 63-67; or, find a padded dash from a 1972-76 MGB and fit that instead. Those later padded dashboards look pretty good, have a glovebox, have the vertical dash vents (which you would not be able to connect), and use the same instruments as your car.

Moss sells a padded dash cover to make the used 72-76 dash look like new. But, it is no small feat to recover the dash!

Hope this helps!

John
InteriorSteering Wheel RemovalJohn,

I'm helping a young guy with his '77 'b' and to replace the broken turn switch (one piece unit) we need to r & r the wheel.

Mark
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwf2BDC5DMo


The above is a link to a video of John removing a steering wheel!


Remove the center MG plastic disc

Back off the steering wheel nut (1") until it is FLUSH with the steering column

One guy sits on the drivers seat. He wedges his knees at 5:00 and 7:00 so that they press on the backside of the wheel. His right hand grasps the steering wheel at 12:00, pulling fiercely. In his left hand he holds a double faced hammer (we use a brass hammer). A ball peen hammer would work, a claw hammer should be left for carpentry. He holds this hammer against the nut/column.

The second guy stands to the left of the driver, holding a LARGER hammer -- three pounds, maybe. On the command of the driver -- ONLY on command of the driver, the second guy swings and strikes the first hammer. Several slow practice swings will give both guys a guess as to the movement -- so that no one's cheek or fingers are smashed.

The goal here is to pull on the wheel very strongly -- and to shock the column with a swift, hard smack.

If it doesn't come loose at once, strike it harder!

ONLY ONLY ONLY on command of the driver!

This will work.

The alignment mark on the turn signal switch should be at 9:00, not 3:00. DO NOT retighten the wheel until you've driven the car to ensure the wheel is as straight as possible.

Good Luck!

John
InteriorInterior Badge PlacementDear John Twist,

My question for you is not really for that section but just a question to you. It is not really technical.

At Triple C Motor Accessories www.triple-c.com they have two badges that were mounted on the dash of cars from University Motors in London. There is a rectangular badge, which apparently was mounted with two screws,
since it has the holes for it. Then there is a round badge, which must have been glued on, since it doesn't have holes for screws.

1. I assuem the two badges are from different times: Which badge went on the early (pull handle) MGB's, and on which models did the other badge go?

2. Exactly where was the badge mounted? I assume that it was probably placed on the lid of the glove compartment (?), but was it on the lower half or the upper half, left part or right part?

I realize that the badges may have been mounted randomly by whoever mechanic happened to put the finishing touches on the car, but perhaps there were some sort of guidelines or a place where they put it more often
than others.

Hope you can help me with this little mystery!

Safety Fast!

Jens.

Jens,

The round cloisonné badges are from the 1969 MGC "Specials" and originally had two pegs on the back. Affixing them today requires some good glue.

The rectangular badge is from an earlier time, but when, I don't know.

I've never been asked this question, and I've never thought about it myself. When I was there they put a long decal at the bottom, inside of the rear window (passenger cars).

I don't know who would know.

John
InteriorWindow RegulatorHello John,
I have a 1963 MGB, Chasis number GHN3L/7318. It is a very early B and has some parts that are different from the later models, even later 1963 models. I need to have the window regulators repaired, the spur and pinion gears have stripped. Are you able to repair these mechanisms? Is it possible to buy replacement gears for these regulators?

Best regards,
Ken
Ken,

We have repaired the MGA regulators, which truly ARE unavailable, by welding, cutting, and filing. The rivets used on these are fairly beefy -- so disassembling them, replacing the gear with a more modern one, etc etc is difficult.

John
Interior1966 MGB Dash Panel RefinishI have all bare parts that were stripped clean and stored (for an extended length of time) without being primed.

I have glass beaded the dash panel to clean up the surface and ready for priming.

What is the correct finish to apply?

How do you achieve it?

I have seen a crinkle black finish on a same year & model at an event.
The original finish is indeed the black crinkle. It was originally painted on but to get an even and consistent crinkle effect is nearly impossible. The best luck we have had is to have it professionally powder coated crinkle black. This will give it the consistent finish and it will look great. Good luck.
InteriorDash Repair Top PanelI have a 77 MGB and the dash developed a crack running from front to back. This is the only flaw in the dash and at least for now it is straight and narrow. Have you found a good repair for dash cracks other than replacing the entire dash which is about $300.00 from Moss. The Moss catalog also speaks of a repair top panel but gives no explaination as to what it is. Do you know? This is only about $50.00 and th crack is on the top of the dash.
The dash repair panel is a wonderfully easy option to a full dash replacement. The plastic overlay needs to be trimmed and sometimes heated and molded before fitting -- but once you've applied it to the dash top, it looks very nice. And, it's SO very much easier than a full dash replacement. The instructions provided are usually not as complete as you'd like, so remember to test fit it until it nearly snaps into place. Be sure to clean the top of the old dash repeatedly to remove the silicone from the plastic so that the new adhesive will stick.
InteriorOriginal Dash Plaque I live in Woodstock llinois and have a 55 TF 1500. I have been curious
about a small dash plaque (from another MG) that I have had for many
years and have no intention of parting with, but would like to tell my
son, who will eventually get it , if it is fairly rare and perhaps has
value.beyond sentiment. It states that it came from University Motors,
Grosvenor, W1 London., and has three emblems on it. It has a sort of
glass finish and is backed with metal.

Do you know if they are common in the US or not? I appreciate the fact
that you have better things to do with your time than answer Emails, but
would value your opinion.
They started making new dash plaques about ten years ago, the new ones
are not worth very much however the original ones are very rare. I knew
someone who bought one for $400. He is just now starting to wonder if it
was the original or a reproduction. The original dash plaques were made in
Piccadilly Circus and again, are very rare. There not just rare in the US but rare as an
entirety. If you have owned your dash plaque for over ten years I am are
pretty certain it is an original.
InteriorMG YT InterriorI have a1950 MG YT, Right Hand Drive that I have had for a number of years. It is basically a driver, we use for fun around town. My son is getting married in August and would like to use the car in his wedding. While the top and interior are fine for tooling around on my own, I would like it nicer for his wedding. Do you have any suggestions where I might be able to get these items, or have it done? It is not a show car, and we work on a budget. First step, just have the whole thing detailed by a professional shop -- cost you maybe $300. I doubt the bride and groom will be inspecting the pleating on the seats. You can hire your local auto upholsterer to fit black carpet and then get some fitted car covers for the seats. After that, it's hiring the upholsterer to redo the seats, etc. With luck, it will be sunshiny day and you won't have to worry about the top and sidecurtains.

Just offhand, I don't expect there is anyone around who has any patterns or tops / side curtains / seats already made up for this vehicle.
LubricantsLubricantsQuestion: john- i now have the 54 MGTF you had looked at for me via powerpoint. you were impressed. i am thrilled with it! some minor questions: 1. have only one key - best source for blanks? 2. valve cover leaks a little. titening the rear wheel helped a bit. other advice? (looks like 1/8" cork.) 3. the left rear shock leaks very very slightly. easy fix? ignore? 4. regular gas OK? type of oil you recommend? Phil Cooke at triple-c.com makes keys from the original key numbers (eg FA 573). The valve cover gasket is best purchased from Moss Motors (mossmotors.com). Their gaskets are thick cork and work wonderfully. Adhere the gasket to the cylinder head with silicone gasket goo and let the valve cover seek its own position. The rear shocks, the Armstrong lever type shocks, are durable. If they need rebuilding, use Peter Caldwell at Worldwide Imports in Madison WI. He does a fabulous job. On the other hand, if it's just an occasional drip, I'd ignore it. You'll find the TF leaks in many more places than just that shock! Use mid-grade gasoline -- 89 octane. If you do a compression check and find that the compression is really high (over 160 psi) then use the highest octane. The cars were prepared for very low octane ("pool gasoline" with an octane of 80) but after years of rebuilds or enhancements, who know the actual compression? I would use 20W/50 in the engine; 80/90 hypoid gear oil in the gearbox, differential, rack and pinion, and the carb dashpots (do NOT use GL5 -- GL4 is just fine, but the higher rating stuff will hurt the brass components). Use NGLI #2 lithium grease for all zerks and wheel bearings.
MiscMisc971 Midget First of all, thank you so much for your excellent videos and the information you provide on these wonderful little cars. As I've just recently acquired my car this info has been very helpful in not only troubleshooting but understanding my car better. One of the things I've always found helpful is listening to the car. I know I've got a lot of tuning to do but having a hard time of identifying what areas to tackle with out knowing what the car should sound like. I know it would be a huge effort but if there were videos that compared engine sounds with common issues to a well tuned one I think it would be very helpful. Most videos I've found have been modified engines or "first-start" that don't give a good reference point. Just a suggestion for a different angle on tuning.(see how I avoided using a "Twist" pun there?) And thanks again. Thanks for your kind comments! Whether it is the “martini effect” or what, it is all but impossible to correctly record sounds so that the listener has a clue. Years ago I had a fellow place a tape recorder on top of the air cleaner of his Magnette and record the engine sounds. When I listened to it, it might as well have been the sound of a jet engine. I couldn’t begin to discern which sound was which. So, it comes down to trying to explain the sounds with words -- a difficult job in any event. A faulty water pump sounds like a lot of gravel in a rotating can. A loose tappet has a reciprocating tick which is slower than engine rpm. Piston slap sounds like the engine is about to come apart – sort of like an idling diesel engine. A knock under acceleration is often a faulty rod bearing, but a pinging under acceleration is from the timing which is too far advanced. A whistling on deceleration is a vacuum leak. Spitting or coughing on slight acceleration is caused by retarded timing or a lean mixture. Gosh – there are probably twenty more sounds if I were to think about them – I wrote an article for the MGB Driver some years ago titled “Zizzes, Clunks, and Rattles” (something like that) but that encompassed sounds from the entire vehicle. Your comments are very well taken, however, as the engine is always talking to you and by listening you can understand so much. Hope this little bit helps. John
MiscGame of SkinsHas anyone had any luck removing door boot or bonnet skins and replacing the same door boot or bonnet skins successfully?Door skins on the MGB are available and “easily” changed. The aluminium skins on the MGA are also possible to change, albeit tedious as the aluminium wants to crack. The boot and bonnet on the MGBs are welded into place and I’ve never heard of anyone trying to change them. Hope this helps.
MiscMobile One, Teflon Additives Hi John! I have a 1970 MGB with a de-smogged, unleaded head, new engine from England from about 1985. Engine has only 5000 miles on it since new. My questions are:

#1 . What do you think about using Mobil One after about 7500 miles ( break-in)

#2 What is your opinion of the teflon additives in such a new engine and in the rear end gears ( Slick 50 etc)
There seems to be conflicting opinions in all the technical data published.. Some say these work great, some say these items were not designed for it. Don't all mechanical items as such benefit from increased lubricity?

I will proceed on your opinion.

Many thanks in advance.

Mark

MARK!

I will only add to your indecision about the use of these products. I'm a firm believer in Castrol 20W/50 for several reasons: You know that all our engines leak and burn oil. As such, there is an oil loss, and the oil gets pretty dirty within several thousands of miles. So why buy the expensive oil when Castrol will work? Another thing. Castrol GTX is made by the Burmah-Castrol Company, and it is only Liberia, Burmah, and the USA left on imperial measure.

The claims made by the Slick 50 manufacturers are impressive. But if it is REALLY that great, why wouldn't Shell or someone buy the company and put that stuff in all their oil?

I have never heard of synthetic oil, or Slick 50, for that matter, hurting any component of the MG (but I wouldn't use the slick 50 in an overdrive gearbox).

Hope this helps!
MiscMG Meet in Stowe, Vermont John, it was mentioned at our club last year that that there was going to be an MG meet at Stowe, Vermont this year late summer,early fall. Do you have any details or could you give us an addess we could contact.

Any help you could supply would be appreciated.

Hope you and your family are well.

Toronto MG Club

IAN!

Contact Abingdon Spares (they have an 800 number) in Walpole, New Hampshire, as they, no doubt, figure heavily into the event!
MiscRestoration CostMr. Twist,

I own a 1972 MG Midget and would like to have it restored. I was wondering if you could give me a ballpark figure on the cost entailed with such an undertaking. I know that the cost will be based on how extensive of a restoration is needed and without actually looking at the car it would be difficult to give an accurate estimate. My MG is in need of a serious engine rebuild, front end work, with minor body and interior work as well. I live in Hawaii at the moment, but the car is located near Kansas City, Missouri, so getting the car to you for an estimate is unlikely. I would appreciate a general figure if you have one or just a low end for minor restoration and high end for work you have done. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mahalo from Hawaii,
Kris Bird

Kris!

My first comment is financial. It would be far, far less expensive to sell your Midget for a song, then purchase one which is in A#1 excellent condition -- the most expensive chrome bumpered Midget is probably $6,000. If you shopped carefully, you would have a car in far better condition than the condition you could return yours. However, if you've owned your car for twenty years or so, or if it has some dramatic personal importance, then you're stuck -- you HAVE to fix it up!

First step is the "Complete Lubrication" and "Complete Tune-up." The first is about $400, the second about $250. Say the car needs a battery, some fiddling with the gas tank/fuel pump, and we're talking about $1000 to get the car up and running so we can take it around the block.

Then, we'll make a list of ALL the problems with the car -- rear brakes, front shocks, kingpins, etc. Here are some general prices: Rear brakes $300; front shock $150 each; Kingpins & A Arms $1000; Clutch $650; Rings and Rod Bearings $800; Soft Top $400; Windscreen $400; So, those amounts can (and do) add up!

After the mechanical work is done, then the body has to be repaired and, after that, the interior.

Before I launch into much more detail, please let me know your personal attachment to the car!
MiscMG CenterJohn, good to talk with you this morning. Could you please send me back the telephone number of the MG Center in England.

Thanx

Moss England is in receivership ("in administration" is the British phrase) but they can still help!

Find them at www.mossint.co.uk.

Also, try Brown and Gammons at 011 44 246 249 0049 in Baldock. They're excellent MG suppliers. www.ukmgparts.com.
MiscFasteners I have many bolts and small fasteners that are un-restorable,do you have a recomendation for a supplier of new fasteners for MGA's.Moss doesnt carry these.fender to body bolts for example. Will you guys except body parts for rebuilding such as fenders? desperate in San Diego.

Mark Belford
1959 MGA rdstr.

MARK!

Of course, the ENTIRE MGA is American fine thread, SAE. Well, not really, it's Unified National Fine. And, of course, there are exceptions -- but not many. Try Todd Clarke in Doylestown, PA -- and try British Tool. Plus, there was JUST a comment about this on the BBS at www.mgcars.org.uk.

Hope some of this helps.
MiscEngine and Transmission ValueHello John,

I am asking you the following questions on behalf of my good friend in Oklahoma who does not have the benefit of email. Thank you in advance for your reply!!!

I have for sale a 1977 Spitfire Midget engine and transmission with 34,325 documented miles. The engine is complete except for starter and alternator. The transmission is good but needs small aluminum block below the gearshift. Question: What are the engine and transmission worth?

I am looking for a hard top for 1977 MG Midget. Do you know anyone who has one?

Thank you!

Gosh! The flippant answer is "as much as you can get!" If you could get $1000 it would be a bonanza for you and still a deal for the purchaser -- but, a figure between $500 and $1000 is probably more realistic. The FIRST problem is to find the prospective buyer!

Sorry, no help with the hardtop. Try the www.mgcars.org.uk site!
MiscRestorationJohn,

I am currently having my 1960 1600 MGA partially restored. I have a few questions.

1. Will having it painted a non-original colour hurt the value? I am going to paint it pearl white and install red interior.

A: Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. You will not dramatically change the value of the MGA as long as the body work is good quality.
[hr]
2. I am responsible for doing the entire interior and was planning to purchase the seat kit, panel kit and carpeting from Moss Motors. Should I send the car to a shop or is it fairly easy to due at home.
[hr]
A: The Moss Motors kit is a wonderful kit. You'll be able to do this at home -- BUT -- read as much as you can about techniques first!
[hr]
3. I was planning to purchase 60 spoke chrome wire wheels or the knockoff sport wheels in Moss's catalog but I read a previous letter to you concerning restoring the original painted wire wheels. All five original wire wheels have a few broken spokes, need truing, rim bands, new inner tubes and tires.
A. Is it worth refurbishing the original wire wheels? NO! B. How soon can you refurbish the wire wheels
[hr]
CANNOT!
[hr]
C. How long will it take.
[hr]
MOOT POINT
[hr]
D. What will cost.
[hr]
SAME AS ABOVE
MiscFan & Generator Colors I'm currently in the process of restoring a '65 Midget and I'm trying to figure out the proper colors for the fan and generator. The original sales literature depicts the generator as being green like the engine, but the traces of paint that I see left on it appear to be black? As for the fan, it is completely covered in rust and I have no idea what color that is supposed to be. Please help!

Thanks,
Evan B. Ruesch

EVAN!

The dynamo is green, even though it may have left the Lucas company black. I believe that the engine fan and pully should be school bus yellow, but I would consult more "experts." Try Jeff Burns at www.motorheadltd.com.
MiscUniversity Motors Special MGCGTMr. Twist,

I have a book by Chris Harvey ,"The A B &C" which has a couple of photos of what he calls a University Motors Special MGCGT. Car in question is a two tone, dark on top, light from fender down, with plaid Recaro seats and mag wheels. Can you provide any info on this car and the soft top version of it? I would like to duplicate it with my 72 B. Specific questions are colors and seat details. Any other details would be appreciated also. I am working under the assumption that your University Motors is the creator of these cars but no information was provided on the makers address or even country. I hope that this does not fall under you moratorium on providing tech advice. I suspect that you are the only person that can provide this information. Can you be any help? Many thanks in advance for any information you may provide.

Gerry Masterman

Gerry!

While you though I was ignoring your letter, I was in contact with Howard Brooks who worked at University Motors before I did. His address in is the cc section. He has some memory of the MGC Specials and can give you some direction.

You know, University Motors was the sales agent for MG (a handshake deal between Kimber and UML's owner, Bradstock). When MG came under BL's control, they cut UML loose. THEN, when the MGC bombed, BL got UML to take the last couple hundred MGCs, nice guys that UML were. They hotted some of them up, etc.

I do have a small supply of MGC Special Badges -- something you'd certainly want. They're $25 each.
MiscCross Country Trip with 3.9 Rear John, I need your input on one more kinda realy important detail. Will my quite strong tf1500 be able to cross the country with a 3.9 rear?? heavey question isn't it. Is a very strong motor, rebuilt, but too what extent I do not know. Part 2, Unless you say 'no, don't do it' I will go with the 3:9, if so hit me with the dollars for all the needed parts to do the job. I do feel indebted to you for all your advice and patience. Plus , I do plan to wander thru your way to meet the famous Twist (you buy the beer of course).

Thanks , Dave Cates.

DAVE!

Write a note to Phil Smith, address in the cc line, whose TF runs (or ran) with a 3.9 diff. If you are going to do a cross country trip, on the xway, then the 3.9 would sound pretty good to me. But, that depends on the power you have available at the rear wheels. It takes about 18 horsepower to push your car down the road at 65 mph. That doesn't seem like a lot, I know, but getting that hp there is quite a feat! See what Phil tells you. You might also consider logging onto the www.mgcars.org.uk site and asking on the technical bbs -- but remember that "most" of what you hear is just bs!
MiscRusted Fasteners Hi John, I hope all is well with you and yours this cooold winter. I am in the process of going through my 1980 MGB roadster and replacing the badly rusted screws, bolts, and washers with new replacements, some stainless steel if I can find them. I am working in the trunk and find 4 or 5 bolts in the trunk floor, each one has 2 fender-type washers, and I can't figure out what size they are. Can you help me with this dilemma, and is there some reference book which might have the size and type of all the screws, bolts, nuts, and washers used in the MGB?

I would appreciate any help you might offer to me.

Regards, Rich Bartner (new NAMGBR member)

RICH!

ALL the bolts holding on the gas tank are 5/16-24. Yours are probably rusted badly. We often have to grind off the heads -- this is especially dangerous and any sparks around the gas tank are just harbingers of trouble. You could drill the heads off -- use a 1/8 pilot to get a hole through the head into the shank, then use a 11/32 to cut down into the bolt, therefore decapitating it.

When you go to fit the new tank, coat the entire top surface with a THICK coat of rustproofing -- rubberized undercoating -- something.

Hope this helps at this late date.
MiscAmmeter or Voltmeter I would like to install either an amp gauge or a volt gauge in my 1973 MG-B roadster and my 1974 MG-B GT. I have the latest catalog from XK's Unlimited and have selected two Smiths gauges. Should I install an amp gauge or a volt gauge or both? How would you recommend I make the connections for the wires and what gauge wire? I know I can connect into anything that lights up to get the gauges to light up at night but where do I make connections to make the gauges work?

I will appreciate any help. Thank you!

Jim Wofford

JIM!

My suggestion is to spend your money on something else. An ammeter can do nothing useful -- AND, by adding several extra connections in the wiring from the alternator, the alternator will fail sooner. The voltmeter is easily connected to the GREEN wires at the fusebox, or any green wire from the underdash. In this manner, it works ONLY when the key is on. The RED/WHITE circuit, under the dash is the panel light circuit.

If you want a fun gauge, get a vacuum gauge and connect it to the intake manifold. THIS will change your driving habits, as the larger the vacuum, the better the mileage!
MiscBuying an MGA Hello, I'm a french student and I already have an MGB GT 1966, but I found a MGA De Luxe that I will certainly buy. Before that, I would like to have more information about this rare car, like production number, serial number, ........

I have some books about MGA but I didn't find this informations, so if you could help me......

Thank you very much


Regards,

Pierre-Emmanuel Champailler

Monsieur!

The MGA Deluxes were built from chassis which were originally intended as MGA Twin Cams. You know that the twin cams were produced in 1959 and 1960, in both the 1500 and 1600 body styles (the 1500 taillite is a single unit on each side; the 1600 taillite is a double unit -- using the 1500 style on the bottom and a beehive lense on top -- this double taillite eliminated the need for the expensive relay box which allowed two filaments on the rear corner to do three things: stop, turn, and park). When the Twin Cam production was ceased, the "all round disc brake model" was born. Something like 2500 chassis were planned for the Twin Cam, and as 2111 were produced, the complement, 389, were Deluxes. In fact, there are a few more Deluxes -- but just 396, I believe. They were produced right up to the end of MGA production -- mine is a 1962 (GHN L2 103 779). I know of some that are in the 109 xxx range. There are a number of differences between the Deluxe and the Twin Cam -- the engine being the greatest, of course. The rev counter (tachometer) on the deluxe red lines at 5500, the Twin Cam at 6,000. The Twin Cam has a heater whose inlet is on the left, the Deluxes have theirs on the right.

More information is available through several sites -- one of which I've copied to you in another message.

What is the number of the one you are looking at?
MiscWhich Manual?John, another question if you don't mind.

I'm looking into getting a workshop manual for my 1974 MGB. Unfortunately (in this context) its a classic "hybrid" car, s/n 36542, with twin HIF4 carbs, rubber bumpers, and an engine number (18V836Z-L4148) that does not appear in any of the published lists that I have seen. I note that Moss lists two versions of the Bentley reprints of the factory manual, one covering 1962-1974 and another for 1975-1980. Which of these would be more appropriate for my car, or do I need both to cover it?

Thanks in advance for your help

Bert Holland

BERT!

You have the "1974 1/2" MGB, of which some 9000 were produced. You know that 1974 was a LONG model year, beginning in Sep 73 with chrome bumper cars, then from Jan 74 thru Aug 74 the "Dolly Parton" or "Sabrina" overriders were fitted, then from Sep thru Dec 74 with the real rubber bumpers and raised ride height.

Contact Steve Harding, 1913-D Darby Road, Havertown PA 19083 as Steve is the Registrar for these models.

Since most of the car is a 1974, I would purchase the manual for the earlier cars.

Hope this helps!
MiscFiat Parts and Service Do you have the resources to find parts and service a 1978 Fiat X1/9? I am looking at buying one and am curious if you would be able to work on it? thankyou for your time.

Chris Haley
(1977 MGB)

CHRIS!

I have no information about Italian cars. Perhaps you should search through Hemmings Motor News, and search the internet. University Motors is not prepared to work on these cars.

Why not buy another MG?
MiscAdvertising Cars for SaleDear Mr. Twist,

I hope that you might be able to help me out with a little problem that I'm having. That little problem is a 68 AH Sprite.

Unfortunately, due to a recent cancer diagnosis, I have decided not to continue with this restoration, and am now looking for
someone else who might be interested in a good starter restoration project. I have a good, solid rolling tub with a strong
motor and most of the original parts (I inventoried them last weekend).

Could you direct me to a publication, club, internet site where I could publicise or place an ad for the little buggar?

I would greatly appreciate any help or information that you might be able to give. I live down the road in Dayton, Ohio.

David Morrin

David!

Try the www.mgcars.org.uk site -- it's the best for exposure.
Try Hemmings Motor News.
And, try your local MG club -- perhaps Tony Burgess at 614 899 2394 or D Zimmerman (Midget Registrar) at 330 678 9394. If you will send just a bit more information -- in the form of an ad, I will post it on our For Sale board at the shop.

I wish you well in your battle!
MiscTech Help I thank you in advance for helping me out. I was very grateful to have stumbled upon your shop's WWW page after searching for good resources for some time now. Although I understand that you are no longer accepting technical questions, maybe you can point me in the right direction to
some other resource(s) for assistance. I grew up in Kalamazoo, and moved to Livonia, MI about 3 years ago. Since then, I have purchased a 1973 MGB Roadster (my first non-essential car). Unfortunately, when I moved, I
lost all of my "automotive resources." My question is, do you know any people, or shops in the Livonia area that carry MG parts, accessories, and especially knowledge? I am so tired of going to regular parts stores in the area. They usually know absolutely nothing about MG's. I admit that I am not a car expert, but part of my purchase decision was based on becoming better at it!
Thanks Again,
Jeff Chapman

Jeff!

I do accept questions, again, but find myself behind by, well, an embarrassing quantity of letters and enquiries! You may call, ANY DAY,Monday thru Friday, 1-2 pm EST at the shop to talk to me directly. The phone number is below. I would suggest that you join the Windsor-Detroit MG Club. Contact Guy St John in Northville. He's also set up to help you with your car. But, remember that we're only a solid two hours up I-96 from Telegraph! Why not attend our technical seminars in Februrary to familiarize yourself with your vehicle?
MiscFrench Metric i am looking for obsolete french metric taps and dies for use in the restoration of a MG TF.I wonder if you can help me or at least point me in the right direction. appreciate any help you can give me.
They're not so obsolete! You need French Metric for the engine and gearbox; BSF for most of the rest of the car; UNF (American SAE) for the rear axle; BSP for the fluids; Whitworth for the electricals; BSC for the windscreen; BA for the smaller sizes; The metric sizes are 5x.75 impossible except from Moss); 6 x 1.00; 8 x 1.00; 10 x 1.50; 12 x 1.50 which are available from most tool shops.

Plan to attend our technical seminars! This year we have our T&A seminar (always popular) -- that's MG "T" and MG "A". Look at our website, read the info below, or send me your name and USPS address and I'll forward some
information.
MiscPurchasing an MG I am from the cincinnati area and would like to purchase an intact and well running MGB, if possible. got your name from a guy in glen arbor, MI. do you know of any dealers or owners in this area who are selling? do you have any vehicles that are in good shape? Where should my
research start?

DAVID!

I have developed several "rules" for purchasing an MG.
1) Buy the MG you want -- if you want an MGA with wire wheels, don't settle for an MGB; if you want a red, chrome bumper MGB, don't settle for a green, rubber bumper MGB. You may think that "I'll change the colour later" but it'll cost you dearly.
2) Buy the NICEST MG you can afford. The most expensive MGB around is probably $9,000 (there are exceptions to all these rules). If you buy one for $3,000 and hope to fix it up, you'll have far more than the $9,000 invested when you're done and it still won't be as nice as the $9,000 one.
3) Avoid rust. An engine is only $3500 or so. Rust is far more expensive.
4) Look at six before you buy one. Keep a list of colour, of year, of mileage, of condition of the interior, of price -- of anything that's important to you.
5) Have your prospective purchase checked out BEFORE you buy it. If it needs a clutch, a front shock, rear brakes, and a soft top (about $1400), fair enough -- as long as you know BEFORE you buy.
5) Take your time. Haste makes waste!

Find these MGs in your local newspaper (even advertise for one), through the local MG club (call Dave Zyp in Cincinnati), through "for sale" boards at local foreign parts/repair establishments. I have never believed that
it's realistic to find one in Arizona (for instance) and hope that it's what you want.

Hope this makes sense.
MiscT-Shirt, Chrome PlatingJohn where can I get a T shirt with the MG logo
or pictures of early MG'sS
Who does your chrome plalting?
TONY!

TONY!

Contact Phil Cooke at Triple-C Enterprises for that T shirt. He has an Email address and a website too, I believe; Philip@Triple-c.com. We have a prep shop in Muskegon, Michigan, handle the little bit of chrome plating that we do.
MiscMGA V8 John, about 1 year ago your name was mentioned on the internet MG
Bulletin as someone who might know the owner of an MGA V8.
I am doing a similar conversion here in Australia and have some
questions I would like to put to the owner of such a beast. I have an
old front chassis half which I am using as the jig and am fitting an
Australian 4.4 litre version of the Rover 3.5 litre (only difference is
1/2" higher block- same front covers) and a 5 speed Toyota/3.9 diff
combo. I have the engine in but am not sure about the header runs. I
plan to set up extractors with each side being made up of 2 separate
pairs of pipes but space will be tight. Still not sure where to run them
(I have a minimum of 65mm between the left no 3 port and the diagonal
chassis brace).
Do you know of such a car? Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
regards
mark

Mark!

I do not remember the name of the owner of the one MGA V8 I've seen -- but
I remember one which the owner had ADDED 6" to the midsection -- making
the vehicle 6" WIDER than original. Other than that, which was difficult
to immediately determine (yet, "something" didn't seem original), the car
looked stock! When I remember who it was, I'll write again. Good luck!
MiscMGCJohn,

Sorry we will miss you at our Spring Fling. Cleveland sounds great.
Glad
the Rule of Nine is already in your technical book. I should have
guessed
that.

You mentioned MGC and my mouth started to drool. I have always wanted
one,
but
a) I can't decide between GT or roadster, automatic or stick,
overdrive or non-overdrive; and
b) I can't find any in my neck of the woods.

Any thoughts on the C that you would care to share with me?

God Bless you for your devotion to the LBC. Keep it up!

Craig

CRAIG!

You have a few more decisions: roadster or GT; auto or stick; if stick
OD or non OD; wire wheels or disc wheels; 1968 or 1969; and
Red/White/Blue/Green. Come on up to our "Sea of C's" for a spectacular
view of this monster MG! Contact Tom Boscarino (address above) for
information about the American MGC Register.
MiscSix-cylinderHi John,

I was waondering if you ever come across six cylinder MG's for sale like
the L,F or K or N type?

If so I am intersted depending on what it is and what state.

I look forward to hear from you.
Best regards,

Ruud Vinke

RUUD!

I have had only two or three pre-war ("Which war?" my kids will ask) MGs
in the shop. They are very rare and unusual in this country. I know that
Gerry Goguen of Abingdon Spares has some of his collection of MGs for sale.
Perhaps you could contact Tom Metcalf of the MMM register. He lives in
Ohio, several hours distant from here.
There is a fellow in Minnesota, whose name escapes me at the present, who
has had his L for sale for some time. I will try to remember his name and
contact you again.

BTW My g-g-g-grandfather's name was Esselstyn, corrupted from
VanYsselstyn. I believe they came here in the 1600's.
MiscLocating 1972 MGBI use to own a 1972 MGB GHN5UC264983G. I am trying to locate this car
would you know of a service that may do that or know where I could find
a good priced 72.

DOUG!

We will check our records. Additionally, contact the North American MGB
Register to see if they've seen it. I suppose you could make an inquiry to
the Department of State or Department of Transportation in the States you
figure the car may now reside. A letter will cost you very little --
whether it produces results.... who knows.

Look for another 1972 in Hemmings Motor News and through the fabulous
website: www.mgcars.org.uk .
Remember these rules in purchasing another: Look at six before you buy
one; buy the one you want (if you want a 72, don't "settle" for a 74); have
your prospective purchase checked out BEFORE you buy it; avoid rust; haste
makes waste.

Let me know where you are and I'll send you a note about the closest MG
club.
Misc1967 MGC John,

thanks for your reply.

Wasn't there a 1967 MGC also?

Can't seem to find the address for Tom Boscarino on your reply, unless he
is
at your University motors website address. sorry. can you please resend
his address and I will contact him. thanks. I really do have the MGC
bug
bad. maybe the prices will cure me...

Am going to seriously look at my Zenith carb and your tech tip for
rebuild
today. My 1500 Midget has no muscle, and runs rough. Hope I can find
out
what's wrong. Do you have anything on how to convert the Midget 1500
back
to UK style SU carb system? Or is the zenith OK and I just need to tweak
mine more?

Thanks again,

Craig John

Yes, there are 1967 MGCs, but only because they were built in 1967 and
because the cars are titled in England the year they were built -- not by
the "model" year.
MiscLearning Hi John

I'm a teacher living and working overseas in Japan and I am totally crazy
about old cars. I have a 1973 MGB that I own with my dad and it is
stored
back in Canada. Each summer I have about 10 weeks of vacation and I
would
like to begin restoring the MGB However, my mechanical skills are
extremely
lacking. I have purchased and read a number of books and technical
manuals
dealing with restoring the MGB. I would really like to get some practical
knowledge as well. Do you happen to know of a school or somebody in
Britain
or North America that happen to offer workshops or classes on automotive
restoration during the summer months? I have looked on the internet and
asked around but I haven't had much luck. If you could provide any leads
or
information I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks for your time

Carl Knudsen

Carl!
The "Complete MG Workshop Manual" is about three feet wide. It is not
available as a single volume -- you must buy it from various sources and
various authors -- about an inch width at a time; about $30/inch. And
STILL it is lacking in some areas. I will tell you this: I am working in
concert with a publisher to produce a series of wonderful books about the
MG hobby -- service and restoration. The first ones will be out this
summer (we hope).
After you have read everything you can, then either come down to our shop
for a week and help out -- watching this and that or simply begin on your
project. Experience is the best teacher. But, experience is build from
good judgement; good judgement from mistakes; mistakes from bad judgement
-- or something like that. The learning curve is slow in some places,
steep in others. Give me a ring when you're back on American soil -- or we
can continue this correspondence in anticipation of seeing you this summer.
My wife's grandmother visited Japan in 1925 -- lots of pictures and her
diaries from the trip make for interesting reading.
MiscTorqueJohn,
Thanks again for your advise. Would you please address the torque
question
i.e.. LB-ft or LB-in. Having not done any of this type, I don't have the
feel!
Thanks and keep up the good work. Your skill and knowledge are valuable
in
keeping these wonderful cars on the road.
Gene

GENE! Oh horrors that I should have written lb-ft! I meant to write lb-in
-- which, at 12 lb-in is less than a foot pound of torque. Just a little
resistance to turning. Much, much tighter than the front wheel bearing,
which has 0.002 or so free play. The diff can have NO free play.

John
MiscGreaseJohn you say in your tech notes, to coat the thrust washer and gears
with grease!!
1 What kind of grease?
2 Does'nt this mess up the gear oil?
3 You said the same for the pinion gear seal!

I just want to make sure I do it right..

Thanks

David HardyJohn you say in your tech notes, to coat the thrust washer and gears
with grease!!
1 What kind of grease?
2 Does'nt this mess up the gear oil?
3 You said the same for the pinion gear seal!

I just want to make sure I do it right..

Thanks

David Hardy

David!
Your note came in during my three week technical seminar marathon (seven
seminars in three weeks with two days off). I just wasn't able to answer
your question then. Of course, by now you've got the rear axle
re-assembled. I meant any grease, although we always use NGLI #2. Grease
is just really thick oil - and eventually breaks down and becomes one with
the oil; in fact, the oil assumes the grease. Hope this sets you at ease
this late in the game.
MiscFactory InformationJohn, Can you help me get in contact with the BMHT, I need help with a
serial # on a 1957 MGA

David

DAVID! Factory information is available from:

Anders Clausager, Archivist
Archive Center
Heritage Motor Centre
Banbury Road
Gaydon, Warwickshire CV35 0BJ
ENGLAND

I believe that the cost is $US40 for this service. Since you have only the
engine number and not the VIN, you might enclose more as their search will
take a longer time.

Hope this helps!
MiscMG HistoryTo John

Over the last few week I have been trying to research into the history
of the MG Sports Car, but have not been succesful in answering these
strange questions?

I was wondering if you could spare a few minutes to help me anwers some
these questions:

1) What was MG's famous slogan?
2) What was the first turbocharged MG?
3) Which town was home to MG from 1929-80?
4) Who were George Eyston Dancing Daughters?
5) Which company planned to buy MG after the 1980 Abingdon factory
closure?
6)What was the MGSSV?

Thank you for reading my E-mail and any help would be very appreciated.

Could you please E-mail answers.

Wickso


Dear Robert!

You ask some very unusual questions for one searching for a history
of the quintessential British sportscar.

You must know that Cecil Kimber, with his first wife, developed the slogan
"Safety Fast!" This was used in all advertising until the introduction of
the MGF, at which time the slogan was modernised to the now familiar "Fast
Forward." The prize, however, should be awarded to the MG Car Club (whose
monthly publication is "Safety Fast") for its recent slogan, "The Marque of
Friendship."

While any number of MGs were supercharged (that is, the air compressor was
driven by belts or from the crankshaft directly), I believe that the Metro
(the fastest MG built (0-60mph)) was the first turbocharged production car.
But, please remember that I am writing from the west side of the Atlantic --
and trying to understand vehicles I have rarely seen and have never
serviced.

Abingdon (formerly Berks, now Oxon) was the home of the MG assembly plant
for all those years. In fact, the main plant was just wrecked to make way
for a police headquarters. Yet, Abingdon has re-discovered tourism, and
many MG related sites are available to the traveller from the MGCC offices
to the MaGic Midget Pub.

George Eyeston's "Dancing Daughters" an all girls team entry (Skinner,
Evans, Simpson, Richmond, Eaton, & Allan) driving P types in the 1935 Le
Mans 24 hour race (JB 6156, JB 6157, & JB 6158) lost to the team of Singers.
Thank you for not asking why they are named "Dancing."

Following a week-long celebration in October, 1979, to which many American
MG dealers were invited to Abingdon (and for which the "Old Speckled Hen"
was first brewed by Morland), was "Black Monday" when Margaret Thatcher's
hatchet-man, Michael Edwardes, announced the end of MG. Despite great
scrambling by individuals and companies, most notably, Aston-Martin /
Lagonda, the company was not revived but was reduced to "badge-engineered"
vehicles for the next 15 years.

Whether to show the insanity of the USA's Federal safety specifications, or
whether to show that, no matter what, MG could compete, the MG "Safety
Systems Vehicle" was created in 1972. It was a far cry from a "real" MG,
yet, as Paris designers realise in the world of high fashion, it was a
harbinger of some of the safety systems eventually incorporated into many
cars.

While this answers your very specific questions, I believe you would have a
more interesting history if you worked with the economic impact on the city
of Abingdon, or if you used MG as an example of the decline of the British
motor industry. You know, in 1950 the British had about 99% of the import
market in the USA. Last year they had 0%. They never knew why they sold
vehicles in the USA -- and they have yet to figure out why they lost the
market. Here we are, flush with cash, just waiting for a new MG model after
20 years, but England has nothing to offer. It's a sad, sad story.

Hope this helps.
MiscWood Handled ScrewdriversDear John

I am trying to lay my hands on a source of MG TC 10" wood handled
screwdrivers and wondered if you could be of assistance in this regard.
Original or repro, doesn't matter.

Kind regards

John

JOHN!

I know I saw an advertisement within "The Sacred Octagon" of the New
England MG "T" Register -- some guy in Australia had tools for sale.
Contact them through Ron Embling at Britbooks in Otego, New York. Also,
contact the Octagon Car Club -- I believe there is info about them at that
great site: www.mgcars.org.uk

Sorry I cannot be of greater and more immediate assistance.
MiscPurchasing MGTDGreeting!

Want to purchase an MGTD. Need your help to locate a good, high point
car in the 12/M to 18/M price range.
Do you have a vehicle or know of any in the Midwest area?


PAT!

Follow these rules for purchase: Look at six before you buy one;
avoid rust and body damage -- mechanical failures are relatively cheap
compared to heavy duty body work; buy the one you want (if you want a red
one with wire wheels, hold out for a red one with wire wheels); haste makes
waste; once you've found the one you want, get it checked out BEFORE you buy
it. Lastly, take cash -- of course, this is now difficult with bank rules,
and potentially dangerous, but you'll save thou$ands. If the owner wants
16,500, and you lay out $15,000 in hundred dollar bills, he'll pale at the
sight and let you take it right there!

Look at the wonderful site at www.mgcars.org.uk, look at the ads in
Hemmings Motor News, find the website for the New England MG "T" Register.

Where are you located?
MiscThanksMr. Twist,
I attended the Heartland Regional in St. Joseph, Missouri this past
Saturday. I had the pleasure of listening to you answer questions fielded
from the car owners. As a member of the Kansas City MG Car Club, I thank
you for attending our annual show and for sharing your time with us.
Bill Grace

BILL! It is always a pleasure to come to an event as yours and fix MGs!
Next summer I hope to get to GOF Central in Minnesota where I can fix T
types! My daughter and I thoroughly enjoyed the Pony Express Museum later
in the day; and all my kids enjoyed the Military Museum just south of the
display field. On Sunday we found (with great difficulty) the Kansas City
Zoo -- but then went downtown to see the exhibit of the wreck of the
riverboat "Arabia." Were there riverboats around here to salvage, I'd be
digging now!
MiscPurchasing an MGHello,

I am consdidering buying a '74 MGB. the car seems to be in excellent
condition except for the wire wheels. They seem to be out of true and
cause a wobble at speeds in excess of 50mph. Is it possible to have the
tuned? Can you performe that service and if so how much? I have done
some research on purchasing replacement wheels and they are a bit
expensive. Perhpas there are other solutions? You assistance would be
much appreciated. Please contact me at the following:

Tom Gattis

TOM!

It is not possible to tune wire wheels. Well, it is almost always
impossible because the nipples have rusted to the spokes. The only "sure"
solution is to purchase new wire wheels -- and I would suggest Dayton Wire
wheels offered by British Wire Wheel of Canoga Park, CA (?). These units
use stainless spokes.

In the meantime, spin each of the five on the left front hub and
judge how much they wobble left and right, and how much they bounce up and
down (concentricity). Select the two that are the best and use those in the
front.

Remember that ALL vibration in the car starts in one of five places:
four wheels and the driveshaft. Faulty shocks will allow slight imbalance
to evidence itself by the wheel hopping at certain speeds (resulting in
dramatic steering wheel rotational vibration).

Also, and more importantly, remember the rules for buying MGs (or
anything else, I expect):
Look at six before you buy one
Buy the best (most expensive) you can possibly afford -- it's less
expensive in the long run.
Buy the one you want - don't settle for a blue one with disc wheels
when you want a red one with wire wheels.
Avoid rust!!! A complete engine is $4000; a complete restoration of
the body is $15,000
Haste makes waste, take your time
Before you actually purchase the one you've selected, take it to
someone who knows MGs so they can drive it and tell you what is wrong -- so
that you're not surprised AFTER you've purchased it.

One last thing. While carrying large sums of cash is discouraged
and said to be unsafe, the purchase price of the car will drop if you are
laying out $100 bills on the guy's kitchen table. If he wants $4500, lay
out 39 $100 bills and tell him that's all you can afford. He'll be so
impressed by that pile of cash he'll yield to your offer.

Hope this helps
MiscStoringHi John and Caroline,

Congratulations on your recent accolades - well deserved. Additional good
wishes on choosing to spend the free time available with the children and
allowing the other clubs to fill in with activities.

To tarp or not to tarp; that is the question? My concern for my Mister MG
is
the harshness of the salt air. Seem to be gathering rust faster than in
Michigan. Some people even cover the car while in the garage. Hoort ( a
name
long forgotten ) always said it was best left uncovered. What's the
opinion
of you - much more knowledgeable sources. Today I saw a magnificent 1960,
1600 - creamy white with wide white walls - owned by a charming man from
Austria. Of course, Austin 3000's abound and some B's, occassionally an A
or
midget.

Enjoy the Michigan summer.

If you have an e-mail for RB Hart, would you kindly forward it to me?

Sincerely,


Ann P. Dunham

ANN!

I know that leaving the car uncovered, in Michigan, is a good
idea -- but when you're 1000 feet off the Pacific beach, well, I don't know.
There are those giant plastic bags you can inflate/erect into which you can
drive the A for overnight / temporary storage. One guy here in town has
one with a little blower on it -- it keeps inflated by the slight air
pressure from the blower. There are others that have a flap, allowing you
to drive into it, close the flap, and then purchase dessicant to keep the
interior of the container especially dry.

It's muggy here today -- rained and rained last night and it's
steamy here at 1:30pm. Otherwise, I'd be out cleaning out the garage (a
planned annual activity) -- but it's too heavy. So I'm in here, trying to
get a slight catch up on Email.

Thanks for the article about the chef and the MG F.

SAFETY FAST!
MiscDealers Any idea as to what dealers import new MGs in the Lansing / Ann Arbor area? I think they are still producing them ? - i believe I saw some new one in Hamburg, Germany this summer .... prehaps a web site on MG dealers ?

Thanks



Professor Nicholas Mercuro

Dear Professor!

Sadly, there are no new MGs available for sale in North America. Now you can go to Singapore, Hong Kong, Sri Lanka, Sidney, Cape Town, even Hamburg, and buy that nifty MGF, but here in the largest auto market in the world? Sorry! You know, the British had 99% of the US import market in 1950; last year they had none (only an asterisk!!) They never understood why they had the market; they never understood why they lost the market. Now the owners of MG, the Rover Group, have been purchased by BMW, so perhaps the lessons of marketing will be passed along to my favorite auto manufacturer. How times change.
MiscTechnical ManualJohn, I just discovered your great site and find it very informative.
Wondering if your $30 technical manual speaks to bringing a '69 MGB-GT
back to life that's been sitting for the last 12 years? Unfortunately,
no special storage prep was done -- just a tarp covering. I guess I'm
looking for a logical outline to follow to get her back on the road.

Kent Cavenee

Kent, I've added you onto another message which covers the same topic.
But, yes, I do believe that the information in my technical manual would
assist you in returning your 69 BGT to the road!

If you're interested, either send me your USPS address and charge
card number to me at this site, or fax it through to the shop: 616 682 0801
MiscMGJohn -

Thanks, thanks, thanks, for all your e-mail. I own a bunch of MGs INSTEAD
of a late-model car - that's the only way I can afford to indulge myself in
this wonderful hobby. But hey, is there a new car out there - a Honda or a
BMW perhaps - where you can e-mail the most respected authority for
technical advice on a Saturday and get three responses before Sunday
evening? Years ago, when I was even crazier than I am now, I drove my
rusty '71 GT to Minneapolis at Christmas time. Surviving minus 24¬?
temperatures from Madison to Minneapolis, I lost a u-joint and froze the
crankcase breather, reducing my oil mileage to about 60 miles/quart. But I
did make it! On Monday the 23rd of December at 8 am, Mark Brandow at
Quality Coaches was ready to fix my MG, but I couldn't bring it in until
after Xmas because in a metropolitan area of 1.5 million people, I could
not find an available rental car!

Mark proved once more that day what you have proven over and over - and
still again this weekend: MG IS the marque of friendship. I'm drooling
over your job opening - I've gotten to be pretty good (OK, I haven't done a
transmission yet), I love to keep learning more, and I care. But I'm only
59, I've got a great job and I'd be crazy to give it up yet. Can you wait
6 years? I'll still be crawling under MGs with the verve and enthusiasm
of a 30-year-old. ' Might as well be doing it for folks I believe in.

I'm only half kidding. The bottom line is that it really isn't just the
car - it's the Cecil Kimbers and the John Thornleys and the John Twists
that make the MG Experience something profoundly special.

Thank you,

Allen
MiscVINJohn,

One more quick question, then I promise not to pester you (for a while,
anyway). The VIN on my car is GHN3L49843. The title says it's a 66,
which
I know is wrong. From what I can tell, this is a late 64, but with the 5
main bearing engine. Does that sound right?

Thanks...

Brad

BRAD!

You can get the factory information for $US40 from:

Anders Clausager, Archivist
British Motor Heritage Centre
Banbury Road
Gaydon, Warwickshire CV35 0BJ
England

Send them your VIN and you'll get back all the adoption
information -- on a certificate suitable for framing!

FAST FORWARD!
MiscV8 & Gearbox SwapDear John,

I have an ex Californian rubber nose MGB which is just perfect for my V8
conversion.
I'll be using an ex SD1 EFI V8 (flat top chamber) and would ultimately
love to mate it with a SD1 5 speed gearbox.
Those 5 speeds are few and far between in this country so as an
alternative I've heard that a 5 speed
from a TR 7 would be just as good.

Would you be able to tell me please if the MGB's gearbox tunnel requires
any modification, are the TR 7 box ratios
acceptable for the Rover V8 and what ratio would I have to use for the
diff.

Many thanks,


Geoff.

GEOFF!

My own knowledge of the V8 MGBs is very limited. I suggest you
contact Kurt Schley at mgv8news@aol.com. Kurt publishes a dynamite
newsletter about the V8 conversions and he'll be able to answer your
questions!

FAST FORWARD!
MiscThanksJohn,

Many thanks for the quick response to my question.
I greatly appreciate your professional advise.

Please call on me if you have any questions regarding
electronic engineering problems. I am a manager with
Epson Electronics and involved with consumer electronic
products.

Thanks again,
Tom Lawrence

Tom! Thanks for your note! Glad I could offer some help!
MiscSeat Belt RecallHi John
I'm trying to find out info on a recall of MGB Seat Belts for 1977-1980
that was in place by I believe Jaguar cars or Land-Rover. Can you assist
with any info?
Thanks
Jim McGhee

JIM! My understanding of this recall is that you must furnish the VIN of
your MGB to Land Rover North America, 4371 Parliament Place, Lanham,
Seabrook Maryland 20706, PH: 301 731 9040. They will replace the latch
portion (shorter portion) only.
But, I have not corresponded with them for some time -- the "recall" may
have expired or changed.

FAST FORWARD!
MiscSelling MGDear Mr. Twist,

I hope that you might be able to help me out with a little problem that I'm having. That little problem is a 68 AH Sprite. Unfortunately, due to a recent cancer diagnosis, I have decided not to continue with this restoration, and am now looking for someone else who might be interested in a good starter restoration project. I have a good, solid rolling tub with a strong motor and most of the original parts (I inventoried them last weekend).
Could you direct me to a publication, club, internet site where I could publicise or place an ad for the little buggar?

I would greatly appreciate any help or information that you might be able to give. I live down the road in Dayton, Ohio.

David Morrin

David!

Try the www.mgcars.org.uk site -- it's the best for exposure. Try Hemmings Motor News. And, try your local MG club -- perhaps Tony Burgess at 614 899 2394 or D Zimmerman (Midget Registrar) at 330 678 9394. If you will send just a bit more information -- in the form of an ad, I will post it on our For Sale board at the shop.
I wish you well in your battle!

SAFETY FAST!
MiscClubHi John,

I just found your site on the web and thought I would ask if you could
tell
me of a club in the Detroit or Oakland County area for either MG's or for
Midgets.
I just got a Midget a few months ago and would love to find other people
who
also love this little car.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Take Care,
Sharon Keil

SHARON!

Contact D Zimmerman at enmgr@sssnet.com. D (as in Dee, female) is
the secretary of the North American MGB Register, but she's also the
registrar for the Midgets. Also, contact Guy St John in Northville and ask
Guy about the Windsor Detroit MG Club. That should help!
MiscNuts & BoltsJohn-is ther a master list of all the nuts/bolts sizes/lengths for a
MGA? or should I make one as I reassemble?

george stringe

GEORGE!

Here's the scoop. You MUST purchase an MGA parts list. You need
this not only for the nuts and bolts, but for re-assembly detail. The parts
list includes EVERY nut and bolt. Then, you purchase my technical book --
in which there is a chart that can tell you that a FNZ 505 is a zinc 5/16
UNF nut or an HBZ 0504 is a zinc 5/16-24 hex cap screw 1/2" long.
There are some relatively common looking bolts that have factory part
numbers (AHH...) instead of the BMC fastener numbers, so your own chart is
helpful. Also, contact Todd Clarke, Swamp Road, Doylestown, PA, who also
offers a technical book!

SAFETY FAST!
MiscClosingI've heard that you've closed! Is that true? If not, I would like to sign up for one of your courses.

Ted Jackson

Rumors develop a life of their own, and while this is the first I've heard this one, I expect it won't be the last. And, to paraphrase: "rumors of our closing are greatly exaggerated!" Watch my web page for the dates for these exciting seminars!
MiscTechnical SeminarsI've got a MG Midget. I'm interested in your technical seminars. Have
you got anything planned for my kind of car?

Many thanks

Tom Wood

TOM!

Yes! The weekend seminar is later in February but I've left my
calendar at the shop. You can call for the exact date or wait a couple of
days until it's posted on my website. You'll love the seminars!
MiscSeatbelt Recallhi.. do not know if this a "tech" question per se, or not...

i was reading on the NHTSA recall website that there was a recall on MGB's
for thier seatbelts.. have you heard of this and also whom might i contact
as far as this recall...

i called the JAG dealer as per the website, and they know nothing of
this...

thank you.
John "BARNEY" Bauernhuber

BARNEY!

The information you have is probably older. Jaguar is now part of
Ford, of course, and the seatbelt recall campaign is being handled by Rover
North America which is in Virginia -- but I cannot remember where. Find
them on the web, probably. I know they were still warranting the belts as
of two years ago!
MiscAssembly DateI have a 1950 MGTD being restored and I would like to know when it was
assembled (Lots of TC parts in this car). VIN is TD 3416 and Engine # is
XPAG/TD/3713. It was, and will be again, Clipper Blue.

Thank you for your assistance.

Charley Howard

Charley!

Well, you know that the first TD was 0251, and taking a look in
Clausager's book makes me believe that yours was probably built in the
summer of 1950. 1123 was built in May; 2985 was July; 4237 was November.
The factory records were destroyed but the MG Car Club, Abingdon, Oxon, has
a good clue. Also, be certain to join the New England MGT Register, Drawer
220, Oneonta, New York

If you need assistance with the engine/gearbox/diff
conversion/carbs/dynamo/starter be sure to contact us!
MiscNeed MGA 1500 EngineSirs:

I am in need of an MGA 1500 engine. I have a January 1959 MGA 1500
with a 1600 engine. I know it is now acceptable to have an 1800 but
would like to keep mine original. As one of the last 1500's it should
have a "15GD" block and head.
I am in Wisconsin and have almost exhausted possibilities of finding one
here.
Would you have one or know of anyone wanting to sell or trade for a
1600?
Thanks for your help,
Dave Woerpel

DAVE!

Try Tom at British Miles 1-800-WE-FIX-MG. He's got lots of stuff.
MiscID Plate Stamping I am currently refurbishing a '72 B Roadster and will need to replace
the VIN plates. The dash top plate is missing and the door jamb plate
has most of the paint work off of it. I have obtained new blank plates,
but have been unable to find anyone who can stamp the plates with the
raised digits as the originals. If your company or someone that you
know can do this, I would appreciate you pointing me in the right
direction. Thank you for your assistance.


JAMES!

Use Todd Clarke of Clarke Spares and Restorations, Swamp Road,
Doylestown, PA. He has those reverse stamps, and while the charge to
renumber your plates is not insignificant, he does a really good job!
MiscWhat a relief to find someone who loves MGs! I inherited my Dad's '79 MGB and am getting ready to start restoring it.
I'm
planning to do the paint over this winter and, since I have never done
this
before, have purchased a book and communicated with Pete Freeman at
MyOldCar
to determine that the original paint was probably lacquer. Would you
concur?
I rubbed it with lacquer thinner and some color came off but I wasn't able
to
get much. Actually, the paint looks a lot shinier where I rubbed it.
Maybe
I should just buff the whole car with lacquer thinner?
I understand from Lundgren's that you might be able to advise me as I
proceed. Is that true?
I'm also planning to rebuild the seats this year. What are my
chances
of locating leather seat covers for less than the Victoria British
catalogue?
Looking forward to hearing from you at your convenience.

--- Mary Walter

MARY!

You're probably into your project, but here are some thoughts and
comments. Firstly, unless the car is really horrible, don't paint it.
Touch up and rubbing out is far easier and less expensive!! If you do want
to go the whole route, then remove EVERY external part of the car-- bumpers,
side markers, lift-the-dots, cockpit rail, all door internals, windscreen,
fresh air grille, headlights, chrome strips....... so that you have a
completely bare car. But, only remove from the car what you can prepare,
right then.
So, for example, remove the right rear side marker. Do whatever you're
going to do with this piece. Clean it, polish it, paint the inside or
rearside in silver paint, fit a new bulb, solder on a new Lucas male bullet,
fit the new gaskets, wash it -- whatever you're going to do, do it NOW.
Then, wrap a COMPLETE UNIT (gaskets, bulbs, nuts, screws....) in clear
plastic (so you'll know what it is next year), then move to the next
component! Only remove as much as you can repair RIGHT THEN!
You will have to go around the car and examine it to make an initial
parts order (about $500 from Moss or Victoria) for all the gaskets, chrome,
lenses, etc. Make certain you have a new windscreen and gaskets fitted!

But, back to your question. The car was painted in ENAMEL.

SAFETY FAST!
MiscMG TB John - we are owners of a 1937 TA and are looking for a TB to add to the
collection. Can you advise or help in our search

Victoria Campbell

Victoria!

Some years ago an older gentleman and his wife attended the summer
party from Toledo. They drove a BRG 1939 MG TB. Try to find them: Ken &
Viola Long, 809 North Centennial Road, Toledo, OH 43617. This is the ONLY
lead that I have for you. Let me know what you find out -- we haven't heard
from them in eight years or so.
MiscPurchasing 1969 MG Roadster John or whoever else can offer advice:

I'm up in Seattle, WA where I may purchase a 1969MG Roadster and I've
little idea what I am getting myself into. I've never owned a British car
and having read about your shop from a link on Nory's web site, I
decided you would be good people to talk with. Would you please take a
moment to offer me advice?
what I should look for on the car -- I keep hearing about rust -- and what
a 'good' price is, I'd appreciate it. The owner (in Sammammish) says that
he had the car rebuilt from the best parts of two cars, complete with 67
motor - he thinks. It's been garaged for 5 years but supposedly started on
the first try the other day. What do you think??

Thanks. -- Stacia Miller

Stacia!

You've probably already come to a conclusion regarding your MG
purchase, but these are my "rules."

Look at six MGs before you buy one. You need at least six to make
comparisons.

Buy the nicest, the most expensive, MG that you can afford. It will
be less expensive in the long run.

Buy the MG you want -- if you want a red one with wire wheels, hold
out for it!

Avoid Rust -- an engine is easy to rebuild -- rust is always a
horror!

Have the MG checked out BEFORE you buy it!

Take your time. Haste makes waste.

MGBs are available in a rainbow of colours; chrome or rubber
bumpers; disc or wire wheel; GTs or roadsters; standard or overdrive.

There are three major divisions of MGBs. 62-67: These are the
first, the spartan, MGBs. The nicest one is the 1967. 68-74: These are
still chrome bumper, but with safety and emission specifications. The
nicest of these is the 73-74. 75-80: These are the rubber bumper cars --
the nicest ones are the 77-80s. There are two groups of "transition"
MGBs -- years through which the mechanical and design tumbled until a "good"
car was born. These two transition groups are: 1968-1970 and 1975-1976.

Personally, I'm not keen on the 1969 models. But beauty is in the
eye of the beholder!

John
MiscQuestions John- Hi again. I'm Vic Myers, small brit refabber in Truckee Ca. I talked to you a month ago re distribs and advances for the rebuild 1977 MGB engine just completed: 80 over flat pistons ( about 9.1:1 it appears), roller rockers, med street cam, new SU HS4. All smog gone of course.
NEW HS4's?? You should have had me rebuild an original set for you. They'd work better and look nicer.


Problem: vac advance with vac pickup downstream of butterflies - at manifold- actually retards from abour 1200 to 2700 rpm under load on rolling road dyno.
ANSWER: Since the vacuum is connected to the manifold, as you begin to increase speed, the manifold depression decreases, letting the vacuum advance return to zero advance. That's why the timing retards at those low speeds. However, my experience on these distributors is that the cars run VERY well: Ensure a 20 degree mechanical advance (look at the limiting finger in the distributor). Set the timing at 15 BTDC at 1500 vac disc -- when you connect the vac the timing will pop up to 35 or so.


Question: Where on these 1971 circa HS4 can I tap a vac adv in front of the butterflys to get the proper adv curve using the vacuum?
In our discussion you advised using both the mech and the vac. Should I change the 15 degree plate out to the 10 degree plate? The pre-1967 dizzys are unavailable out here. Do you stock any of these pre-emission units?

I will do my best to measure the exact spot on the carb for the vacuum port. I do have original bodies with this fitting already in place!


Last Question: Using the new Mallory electronic distributor ( Moss 143-155) and giving up on above, do you recommend the vac/mech combo ( with tapping upstream of butterfly somehow) or just do the mech and suffer the low-midrange loss?

Since you're not worried about fuel economy, just go with the straight mechanical advance. Set it up so that the idle timing is about 20 and the MAXIMUM advance (by about 2000 dist rpm) is 35 degrees.

Have you any tech articles in the works for this apparent dilemma built in to the later MGB's?

As always, thanx very much for whatever help and advice you might offer. Regards, Vic

Hope this helps!
MiscDealers 5th December, 2001
New York

Dear University Motors,

I grew up in England in the 1960's, where my late father's greatest thrill
was his white MG BGT.
I have since moved with my young family to the States some four years ago
and
would like to recapture the MG spirit for my own kids.
I came across your fascinating web-site in my quest for an auto-dealer
specializing in the sale of MG's.
I would be most grateful for any suggestions as to whom I might contact. I
am
located in the New York City / Northern New Jersey vicinity.

I thank you in advance for advice.

Sincerely yours,
Daniel E. Kestenbaum

Daniel!

There are several major areas to review: the internet -- find
EVERYTHING MG that is worth learning on sites linked to www.mgcars.org.uk ;
magazines -- Classic MG Magazine -- Lunney, Dick
editor@classicmgmagazine.com and British Car Magazine -- Anderson, Gary
editor@britishcar.com.

There are several MG clubs in the States, all factionalised along
model lines. Try the North American MGB Register which cascades from the
mgcars.org site above.

There are very few "dealers" who have a selection of MGs. You'll
find them on the internet. I know of Steve's British Connection and
Northshore Imports, both in the Chicago area. There are more, of course.

Expect to pay probably no more than $7,000 for the absolutely nicest
MGB/GT you can find. The roadsters are worth much more!

Oh -- look in/on Hemmings.com or Hemmings Motor News -- they really
have a good selection.

We have two suppliers in New York -- Nisonger Instruments in
Mamaroneck; and Joe Curto in (oops, can't remember). There is also M&G
Vintage Auto in Tuxedo Park.

If there is anything else I can provide, please ask!

John
MiscWhitworth Fasteners1. Is it true that you must use Imperial Standard sized tools to work on
British cars? A bet is riding on your answer! I am an Admirer of Your Work GREG


Well, specifically, the tools required are not "Imperial Standard" but
"Whitworth" or "British Standard." Let me explain. Dr Whitworth, better
known for the Enfield rifle, by which Great Britain ensured the Pax
Britannica for nearly 100 years, was also the originator of the British
thread system, used until about 1955. Fractional in sizing, it is slightly
more coarse than the US (SAE) thread system -- but its BIG difference is
that the cap size (the size of the head of the bolt) was arrived by
calculation, based on the metallurgy of the day (1850's). So, an American
5/16 bolt has a cap of 1/2" and 24 threads per inch; a 5/16 British Standard
Fine bolt has a cap of 0.525" and 22 threads per inch. Besides the
difference in tpi, the angle of the thread is also different -- the British
bolt uses 55 degrees while SAE bolts use 60 degrees.
At the introduction of the MGA, the BSF use ended -- BUT, all pipe
connections involving the oil, gasoline, and cooling are BSP (British
Standard Pipe) threads which use the BSF wrenches. Further, the small
screws (like out 10-32 or 8-32) are BA (British Association) which have a
combination of fractional and metric sizing. Although a 5/16 socket fits a
2BA nut, and a 1/4 socket fits a 4 BA nut, there really is no substitute for
having the right tools.

What was the bet?

Hope this helps!

John





MiscLister JaguarGood day, I am looking for information on 1958/59 Lister Jaguar. Can you provide an direction, books, clubs or anything else? Thanks Phil Binley

Phil!

I am an MG guy -- I know little of Jags. I can only suppose that the Jag clubs could offer something -- or try Jerome at Terry's Jaguar to get some ideas.

John

MiscLister JaguarGood day, I am looking for information on 1958/59 Lister Jaguar. Can you provide an direction, books, clubs or anything else? Thanks Phil Binley

Phil!

I am an MG guy -- I know little of Jags. I can only suppose that the Jag clubs could offer something -- or try Jerome at Terry's Jaguar to get some ideas.

John

MiscWinter Storage of 72' MGBHi,
I saw your article in the Minnesota MG Group newsletter, and I have a question regarding winter storage. I've been told by another member that to ward off mice one can put fabric softener sheets in the interior of the car and a small cube of handsoap under each wheel. Your article suggests mothballs, and so I am wondering about your side of the debate. I've just spent money getting new sills and rockers replaced along with the castle rail section under the fenders replaced. Now, I am getting it repainted Mallard Green. After initially shelling out $3,200.00 for the car and now well over that for body work -- not to mention that I re-upholstered the seats and interior last spring -- I am concerned about taking proper car of the car. I do have a garage for it that I share with another person in my apartment building.
Thanks, Jeff

Jeff! I cannot say whether the soap and fabric softener works or not! I've never heard of this -- but that doesn't mean it's not a valid method -- OR, that it's not BETTER than the mothballs. I'd love to know if it works -- but you'll tell me if it doesn't!

Happy New Year!

John
MiscLooking for a MG Repair business like UM in Pennsylvania Hello, I am looking for a similar organization like yours in the
Philadelphia, Lancaster, Reading, Valley Forge, Downingtown, Pennsylvania
area!!! Any help you can offer will be appreciated!!! This car has been
under wraps since 1967!!

Matt Verdecchia MS, CEAP

Try Steve Harding, 1913-D Darby Road, Havertown, PA 19083

John

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
(616) 682 0800
www.universitymotorsltd.com
MiscMGA Road Driving
John

I have been working on a 1960 MGA that my friend has. The A was in
storage for quite some time and the engine was rebuilt along with the
carbs before he purchased it. The challenge before me is going up a hill
she fall on her face like it is running out of fuel, but you bring the
RPM down and you are on your way again. It sounds like she ran out of
fuel to me. We have replaced the distributor [ bushings were shot]
took the SUs apart cleaned and adjusted them and installed Grose
valves. A new fuel pump, tank, and filler. Cleaned the connections and
ground connections. Checked for vacuum leaks and replace the hose from
the distributor to the vacuum line. Each time we work on it, she runs
better and stronger, but when we come to a Big hill She falls on her face
under load. Can you offer any insights or direction that we need to
look at closer?
He loves driving the A and just wants to make it road worthy.

I always enjoy hearing from you, Thank you

Michael Cerny

Michael!

There are three main areas, three links in the chain, to make this
MGA start and run powerfully. The first is the engine: Is the compression
even? Are the valves adjusted to 0.015"? Do you have a thermostat that
allows the engine to quickly warm to operating temperature (180 F)?

The second is the ignition: Champion N-5 plugs gapped at 0.035"? A
nice spark from the coil? Points set at 0.015" for a dwell of 60 degrees?
Timing set at 20 degrees before top dead centre? Vacuum connected to the
rear carb?

The last is the fuel: Fuel flow steady at one pint per minute?
Vent tubes from the top of the carb open? Silt washed out of the bottom of
the float bowls? Carb pistons moving up and down easily? Oil in the
dampers? Exhaust unrestricted? Air cleaners cleaned and oiled (if wire
mesh)?

Write to me and let me know what you found, Michael!

John
Misc69 MG Roadster Mr John Twist,

Many years ago you were always helpful, as I kept
my "B" running with your advice. It went into storage
and now 10 years later I am pulling it out, again.

My most immediate question is: what brands offer
replacement refills or wiper blades for the MG's three-
blade setup? The car is not where I am at the moment
or I would measure the blades... the last time I
replaced them with Anco's. I seem to recall 10"?

Surely there are blades out there to be bought??

Also, the gearbox is totally dry/it all leaked on the
floor. Culprit is likely the gaskets?

Thanks, Robert Simeral

Robert!

I remember you from years ago! Many apologies for my tardy
response.

I would simply fit NEW wiper blades -- there are refills out there,
apparently, that you can make work, but at $15 per blade and only two blades
(am I right?), your investment just won't be that much!

The gearbox drain plug would be my guess -- smear some RTV silicone
gasket goo on the threads of the plug before refitting. Sure, tighten the
exposed bolts as you can find them.

Nice to hear from you again!

John
Misc1972 MGB/GT V.R.S.F Cont. | Ed!
|
| Your HIF carbs are overflowing -- that gasoline is pouring into
the
| charcoal canister and from there into the engine and onto the ground.
What
| to do?
|
| Change the oil and filter.
|
| Remove the charcoal canister and let the charcoal pellets
ventilate.
| Activate them by lighting them with your propane torch and turning them,
as
| they burn, until they simply won't burn by themselves anymore. Do this
| AFTER! most of the gasoline has evaporated.
|
| Change the fuel pump to a factory model if you have an
aftermarket
| pump on the car. You cannot exceed 3psi!!!
|
| Remove the carbs, replace the needle and seats with the Viton
tipped
| valves. The new "Grose Valves" on the market do NOT fit the HIFs, no
matter
what the advertisements say!
Joe Curto sells the Viton tipped valves.

Hope this helps!


John
Thank you!
How do I find Joe Curto who sells the Viton tipped valves?

I did indeed install the offending valves, years ago. No wonder I NEVER
have
been able to get a decent running car!

And how do I repay you for your time?

Edward K. Schenk

MiscTech Manual John, Many thanks, all is now well.

I have a 97or 98 version of your tech manual. Has it been greatly(?)
updated since? If so, how do I order one?

Thanks again Bob Runyan

Bob!

I do a massive update every year. Wait until February 2003 for the
next big update.

John
MiscTest titleHere's the question...Here's the answer.

Can I do a http://www.universitymotorsltd.com link?
MiscDrumming Noise at Cruising SpeedJohn :
What do you know about the drumming noise (vibration?) that gets set up at 70-ish MPH an an MGB GT?
It is at a practically legal cruising speed and I would like to loose it, any ideas?
Hope all is well with you
TTFN John

John : Thanx for your suggestion (Interesting that many other people were copied on the reply - do they have a drumming in their ears at 70 MPH too ?)

1. Exhaust : I have already had it replaced 2 years ago to a standard muffler/silencer and noise did diminish somewhat. Maybe it has not got rid of it completely and some engine/exhaust harmonics (more like cacophonics) still exist. I will try out your rev. test standing still.

2. Tyres (notice correct spelling ! ...Cheeky) : This is worth looking at again though I did have all 4 balanced (on the car) a little while back, this is not to say that it was done perfectly - there may still be vibration generated - I have another set of wheels I can use that are on my 79 LE which dont create a noise. I will swap them and hear what happens.

NB Whole back end was changed a few years ago ( the diff. went ) which made very little difference, I thing it changed the pitch.
If you think that it is possible that there is something in the GT design that may cause this in some cars would you let me know ?

I don't know how long it will take me to get rid of the noise, but I will keep you posted on the results of your well appreciated suggestions.
John!

Some noises are set up by harmonics from the engine and exhaust, some by the rotation of the tires. Sit in your driveway and rev the engine to 3500-4000 and see if you can duplicate the noise. If you can, then the problem is in the exhaust. If not, then there is probably a tire imbalance. This is just an armchair diagnosis from 300 miles -- so keep me informed as to what you find!

John
Misc1950 TDI had just purchase a 1950 td that has a ford engine in it. I was thinking about trying to find and MG engine and trans for it. do you think it would be worth it or would it be to costly to do.

Ed
Ed!

If the TD that you purchased runs and drives, then I would leave it as is. The cost of purchasing, rebuilding, and installing an original TD engine and gearbox, along with the carbs, starter, generator, etc, could easily cost $10,000 which might well exceed the value of the car.
Of course, if you did all the work yourself you might save $5,000 of this amount -- but it would be a LOT of work!

If you want an original TD, then continue to look for one -- when you find it, buy it -- then clean up and sell the TD you have now.

The nicest TD around is worth just shy of $20,000.

Hope this helps!

John

MiscChase?John,

Thanks for the advice. Removing the heat shield made
all the difference. The carb is on its' way to you as
I type this. What do you mean by 'CHASE' the
threads? I can see a little distortion on the
threading of the upper. The nut requires effort (open
end or socket wrench needed) to spin. The lower is
perfect and the nut spins with ease.

Thanks again,

Jay


Jay!

To make refitting a little easier, it is important to "chase" the
threads. Now, you know that a die makes threads -- you can cut a 5/16-24
thread on a piece of 5/16 rod with that die. But, there are such things as
"thread chasers," too! A thread chaser won't make a new thread but it will
"clean up" an older thread that is covered in rust or corrosion, or has been
damaged. You can purchase these thread chases, usually in a set, pretty
inexpensively -- try your local auto parts store. Instead of the whole set,
just by the one you need -- which, again, is 5/16 Fine American thread, or
5/16-24 SAE. Use new nuts when you re-install!

Hope this helps!

John
MiscBuying an MG!john:

great tech tips on the namgbr website. i got some pointers from your articles particularly the preference for an overdrive, su carbs, compression variance, rear end noises etc. i'm looking to buy my first mgb roadster. i've loved their look since i was a teen, 1/2 a life ago and finally, i think it's time. tell me something please, what would be your ideal purchase (year, options etc.)? if that ends up being incredibly rare or correspondingly expensive, would you mind listing a few others and perhaps some to avoid or some tell tale signs of a tight car?

how's the power in an mgb? i'm not expecting much but assume that as the production years passed, some improvements were made. i live near the rockies in the midst of some very mountainous highways, will an mgb overheat or take forever on a 10 mile mountain pass?

thanks in advance,

jeff
Jeff!

Look at six before you buy one!

My favorites? The "end" of each style: 66/67 which was as nice as the early MGBs became; 73/74 which was as nice as the chrome bumper MGBs got; 77-80 which are the most refined of the range and very drivable!

Most power? 66/67.

Stay away from the two "transition" models: 68-71 and 75-76. In these years the cars "tumbled" and didn't find their own until the next model year.

Buy the one you want!
Avoid Rust!
Take your time!
Buy the BEST one you possibly can.
Get it checked out BEFORE you buy it.

Good luck!

John

jeff
MiscUniversity Motors RegaliaJohn, a friend recently bequeathed to us two 'new' university motors badges. i would like to describe them to you and ask that you tell us their background, please.

first, we have a round metal medallion, about 1.5 inches in diameter. around the outside it says 'univsersity motors' at the top and 'special' at the bottom, with two emblems in the middle. it does not appear to be intended to be affixed to a car; rather perhaps to sit on a table top or something.

second, we have 1" by 2" rectangular medallion that says 'uniserity motors ltd' at the top and 'stratton house w1' at the bottom, and 'grovesnor 4141' below that. there are two holes in it toard the bottom [for affixing to something?] and three emblems in the midde.

was there / is there a university motors in the UK? are these badges from your business or perhaps from a british business?

any info that you may have on these would be very appreciated.

thanks

debbie
Debbie!

The Stratton House rectangular badge was used, I believe, in the forties and/or fifties. It has been reproduced by two different people -- one is nearly always for sale on eBay from the British source.

The University Motors Special was a badge created specifically for the MGC. At the end of production in 1969 the factory was "stuck" with a number of the MGCs. The motor magazines had written horrid things about their handling (mostly true) and they factory just couldn't sell them. So, they turned to their major sales agent, University Motors of Hanwell, W7 (greater London area) for help. UML hotted them up -- and affixed the badges -- and they sold out. These, too have been reproduced by at least two different people -- one is nearly always for sale on eBay from the British source. A note, here -- the REAL badges have two fixing pegs on the back -- the reproductions are simply concave.

University Motors was the main sales agent for MG -- a deal between Bradstock, the owner, and Kimber, head of MG. This lasted until BL took over from BMC in 1967. By 1985 UML ceased operation, blaming high costs, etc.

I worked at University Motors in 1972-1973 in Hanwell. I returned here, stole the name, and began operation. I refer to the British firm as the "original" University Motors.

Hope this helps.

John
MiscClassic Car InsuranceHello John,
Can you recommend an insurance company that offers reasonable rates for an early 70's MGB's? I was with Haggerty, but they raised rates considerably this year. (Close to $200/year.)
Thanks,
Dennis
Dennis!

If you are truly using your car only occasionally, parades and the like, then classic car insurance is for you. Try Condon and Skelley; JC Taylor, or Haggerty. If you drive your car to work on occasion, then simply tie it on to your normal auto insurance.

John
MiscStereo InstallationsJohn,

Do you know of any stereo installation kits for my
1978 MGB? It currently has an old Audiovox AM/FM
installed (well sort of - it was not really attached
to anything except for the facia on the console) that
I would like to replace.

Thanks John,

Ray
Ray!

We've had really good luck installing "modern" AM/FM cassette and
DVD players into that radio console. Sometimes an extra support is needed
at the rear to support the weight of the unit (in addition to the plastic
console). An extra ground is ALWAYS worth the trouble!

John

MiscMGFcould you please let me know if there are any manuals for the MG MGF as it seems Haynes does not publish them could you please let me know if there is an organisation that does publish a manual for this vehicle?
Pearl!

As the MGF was never, unfortunately, sold in this country, I have no knowledge. I would suggest that you post a note on the bulletin board for MGFs at www.mgcars.org.uk . Someone there will, no doubt, be able to offer assistance.

It's such a pity.... My belief is that if MGRover had sold the MGF here that they'd be running at capacity yet today instead of waiting for the Chinese to haul away all the scrap metal.

Hope this helps!

John

MiscMGB TowingJohn

Is it permissible to tow (4 wheels down or on a car dollie) an MGB (standard shift w/o overdrive) without any alterations to the car. Like disconnecting the drive shaft?

I realize I would need to install a battery cutoff switch so I could release the steering wheel lock.



Gary

Gary!

It is always advisable to disconnect the driveshaft when towing an MG for any distance over 25 miles. The problem is that the gearbox does not receive proper lubrication when just the mainshaft turns. To prevent damage to the gearbox bearings, it's necessary to disconnect the driveshaft.

You can NEVER tow an MGB with wire wheels backwards -- the wheels will come off!

You can tow the MGB on all four, but you'll want to disconnect the battery. Simply pulling the negative cable is all that's necessary!

We just sent an MGA away today for a 10 hour tow home. It was up in the front on a U-Haul tow dolly and the driveshaft was disconnected.

Hope this helps!

John
MiscUniveristy Motors RecordsJohn,
The reason for my inquiry is this - and it is a long shot. I own an MGB which started it's like in England. It was delivered to University Motors London on 21 March 1969 as a 'special', I think it had a bit more chrome on it or something. Lindsay told me you worked there, I have since read your story on your web site. I am trying to find out anything about the car's history in England. I know it's been a long time but do you know anything of the people who ran University Motors London and if any records were kept? My MGB spent it's first 20 years in England before being imported to Australia. In it's first year in England it must have been in a severe accident after which it was given a new body but the car's identity continued. I have traced car numbers etc through the British Motors Heritage Trust. It was restored in 1995 and eventually found it way to me. This little car has travelled to the other side of the globe and has probably had many owners - if only cars could talk. I might add that only an MG fanatic would try to trace a cars history. It is a long shot but if you know anything from your time at University Motors London I would appreciate it.
Peter
Peter!

I sure wish I could help you out! Mr Bradstock, the owner and founder of the original University Motors, Piccadilly, had a handshake deal with Kimber -- that UML was the sales agent for all MGs sold in the south of England. This was a lucrative association! But, when MG's parent, BMC, combined with all the other companies in 1967 to form BMHC, later British Leyland, that deal was terminated and University Motors lost its direct connection with the factory. They closed in 1985. It was, after all, "just" a car dealership with no one as fanatic as you or me at the helm. I've never found anyone who could tell me anything about the disposition of the records -- although I expect they were recycled and have returned as brown paper bags.


All the best!

John
MiscMGBs Through the YearsJohn,
While reading some of the E-mails, I came across one that you responded with the fact that the transition years should be avoided and that they tumbled. What does tumble mean? I have a 70B that I have owned since 73. After 26 years in the garage I now ready to restore it, should I part with it and find a better year or should I stay with the 70? Also you mentioned Clausager manual, is it still available?
Thanks,
Chad
Chad!

Tumble means, in this case, working towards something but not quite getting it. The 1967 was as nice as the pre-safety/pre-emission MGB got. Then they "tumbled" for a couple of years until they came to the 72/74 MGB which was as nice as the chrome bumpered MGB got. Then, they "tumbled" again for a couple of years until 1977 when they got the rubber bumpered MGB as nice as it ever got.

But after 26 years in the garage you don't really have a choice, do you? I mean, this is like the family that takes the sick dog to the Vet. The vet takes one look at it and says, "Gosh, it'll be so much cheaper if I just shoot it now and you go out and get another dog at the pound for $25." You, Chad, would have less time and money invested in this project if you put a garbage tag on the car and forgot you owned it -- and went out and purchased a "perfect" one for $15,000. But you can't, can you?

You need a plan, you need to get a good footing. Come visit us. Come to our technical seminars in February. Come work at a week at the shop. I'm happy to help any way I can.

John
MiscMGB Buying GuideJohn,
I looking for an MGB. I'm not sure what year cars have a better reputation so I need some guidance. Can you provide some information and information on ant cars you of that are for sale. I'm in the Detroit area.
Thanks,
Jim

Jim!

Look at six before you buy one.
Buy the most expensive, the very nicest one you can find.
Buy the one you want (red with wire wheels?)
Have it checked out BEFORE you pay for it.
Avoid rust
Take your time

look on Hemmings.com look at the MG sites mgcars.org.uk and mgbexperience for hints. eBay seems like a nice spot but when it ways "totally restored by the owner" it really means completely taken apart and reassembled incorrectly.

Give us a call anytime!

John
MiscGas Milage, TDJohn:
As I work on my 52 TD and it's starting to sound better, can you tell me what kind of milage I could get, right now it seems like 14 mpg,is that good or bad?
Wayne
Wayne!

You should get about 25 mpg. Of course, short, cold runs are worse for mileage -- and a heavy foot (lots of accelerating and braking) are bad for mileage -- but overall, expect 25 mpg.

John
MiscSteering Wheel PurchasingJohn,

My name is David, my father has a restored '74 MGBGT that we have almost completed. His birthday is comming up quickly and I would like to get him a new wood grain steering wheel. Since I personally don't know much about MGB's I was wondering if you could suggest a couple models or companies that would be able to help me in my current situation. I'm looking for either a 13" or 14" steering wheel. Thanks for any help you may be able to provide!

David.
David,

Log onto mossmotors.com or to victoriabritish.com, look over their selections, ensure the model year, and order!

Hope this helps!

John
MiscVehicle InformationJohn,

I have a friend who bought a MGB and found out later the engine tag was missing.
Is there any way to find out what the engine # was, the vin # is intact (GHN5UD294515 G).
Please email me asap, he would like to get this corrected as soon as he can.

Mickey
Mickey,

You can write for that information (maybe write for it on line) by contacting British Motor Heritage Industry Trust and providing them with your VIN.

www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk

Hope this helps!

John
MiscMG Without a TitleHi..I hope you can help me. I have a '76 Midget without a title. I don't have any info on previous owners and have tried to get information with state DMV. The only numbers I have are GAN6UG187285G...Is there someone you can refer me to for help? I live in West Virginia ..USA
Thanks for any help you may be able to give me.
Betsy
Betsy,

You can usually make application for a title with a bill of sale. The number you have given to me is the VIN. You can go to the British Motor Heritage site in Gaydon, England, and order up the production information sheet (the "adoption papers") but that will hold little sway with your local DMV bureaucrats. You are not the only person asking for a title on an older car, your DMV must have some process, some protocol for obtaining one.

John
MiscRules For Puchasing An MGDear John,

I'm looking for a restored 1967-1969 MGB roadster in excellent condition. Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Larry
Larry:

Thanks for your note. These are my six rules for purchasing an MG:

1) Look at six before you buy one.

2) Buy the very nicest (the most expensive) one you can -- it's less expensive in the long run.

3) Avoid rust. Rust is your greatest enemy.

4) Buy the one you want! Don't settle for colors or options you don't want.

5) Have the MG you finally decide to purchase checked out BEFORE you buy it.

6) Take your time. Haste makes waste.

We have a board of cars for sale here -- come up and visit our facility!

Hope this helps!

John
MiscTips on Purchasing an MGAHello John.

Let me start off by saying that your YouTube videos are great! I like seeing people put something worth while/educational on there instead of the usual dog skateboarding. I am considering purchasing a fixer upper 1959 MGA that hasn’t been started in a long time (7 years). Do you have a basic checklist that you use in a situation like this to start up a car in this situation? I know I will need to treat this carefully before just putting a new battery in and cranking it over. I imagine the engine as being pretty dry throughout.

I appreciate any input that you might have and I will keep watching your videos.

Talk to you later.

Brandon


Brandon,

If you brought your MGA here this is what I'd do:

Remove the plugs and introduce a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder.
Change the engine oil and filter
Spin the engine over until I had noted oil pressure on the gauge
Fit cleaned or new plugs
Remove the distributor and clean the points, set the gap to 0.015", and static time the engine at 10 degrees before top dead center
Remove the float bowl lids, clean out the float bowls
Remove the suction chambers, clean them, clean the air pistons, and lightly sand (with 600 paper - something like that) the metering needles to remove the verdigris.
Exercise the jets by moving the choke levers up and down about 50 times, all the time spraying the linkage and the inside of the carbs with oil.
Drain the fuel tank, introduce new fuel, then purge the fuel system by pumping a pint of fuel into a bottle or can.

Now the engine will start right up!

John
MiscVIN Numberjohn, would you about this number, 18V 658( M) L 17061 I can not find what the M is from. any help would be great. I don't have all my literature at my fingertips here at the shop, but I do believe you have an engine from an Austin Marina, sold in England as a Morris Marina. The sump has a flange at the rear (to attach to the gearbox) and the crankshaft is not bored as deeply as an MGB, making it impossible to fit an MGB gearbox to the engine.
MiscMGA InformationActually I was concerned the guy from Norway was a scammer. This is my first time ever selling something on Ebay. Did you get a chance to check out the auction? Can you give me an idea of what this stuff is worth? I’m selling these as part of my father-in-laws estate; my knowledge of MG’s is next to none.

Here’s a little more info on the cars:

What I listed as 61-62 appears to be a 57. It has a readable plate: Car # HDL43/28482, Eng. # BP156GB/18555. The engine had the same number as the plate. The body # was hard to read but guessing 34058

The red 59 had a body # 63849. The tag is on the car, but it was painted over. I didn't have any paint thinner.

The gray 59 did not have a plate with but the Body number might be 75291. The engine # is 15GD-U-H 4293

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

There are three major varieties of MGAs -- 1500; 1600; and 1600 MKII. The 1500's run from the first to 68850 all using the 1500 cc engine and having the single lense taillight and are nominally titled as 1956 - 1959. The 1600's run from 68851 through 100351 all using a 1600 engine and having a double lense taillight, titled from 1959-1961. The last MGAs, 100352 through 109070 have a horizontal taillight, a 1622 engine, and are titled as 1962s. All were available as roadsters or coupes. There was also an MGA Twin Cam, a very rare and desirable version, all having knockoff steel wheels (the regular MGAs had either bolt on disc wheels or wire wheels with spinners).

Values? Gosh -- look at Hemmings.com; autotrader.com; mgcars.org.uk.
MiscBuying An MGMy brother and I are looking to buy an MG together. This would be our
first car and although we have no mechanical experience (yet!) we'd
rather spend our time and money learning and loving a classic than some
new Toyota!!

What model(s) do you reccomend? Where should we look to buy one? What
should we look for when find one?
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Get the car you love and and stick
to it. If you want a red car, get a red car, if you get a yellow one you
will wish you got a red one. Also, get the best and most expensive one you
can. it will be a lot cheaper in the long run. Make sure there is no rust on
the car. It is your enemy. Get the car checked out before you buy. You can
look on Cars.com, Hemmings.com, MGcars.org.uk. Always remember haste makes
waste so take your time.
MiscFront Wheel Tow I had to take a job transfer to Milwaukee about 18 months ago and I took my 1969 MGB over on a frount wheel tow dollie. I have the engine out right now to install a new rear main seal, transmission seal and clutch assy and clean up the engine compartment. My question is I was reading a past MGB Driver and in your tech talk you said that would ruin the bearings because of lack of lubrication. I towed mine from Hudsonville to Racine how due i find out if I did any damage? I have the engine out now it would be easy to pull the transmission this way. The only way to discover a problem is by driving the car. You probably haven't done any damage, but I know that some people, on especially long trips, have encountered problems. It's just that the laygear doesn't spin when the car is being towed, and it is the splash of the oil from the laygear that gets the oil into the oil pump. I'd just go ahead with what you're doing and then drive the car normally. If you encounter any unusual noises, give me a call and I'll try to help you diagnose their origin.
MiscBronze Yellow Paint CodesI'm having a little trouble matching paint for my '72 Bronze Yellow MGB. I'm only getting the bottom half painted right now to cover necessary bodywork, so I'd like to have it match as close as possible. Do you have any suggestions or sources? Remove the bonnet or boot lid and ask your paint shop to match the color. The color will match much better than using "factory" codes. However, these may provide a starting point:

Factory BLVC 15
Ault & Wilborg 27944
ICI - two codes here 9785 and 7861
PPG 81827
Dupont 8581
Glasso / Rinshed Mason 6649
Misc3M GlueI am trying to locate the 3M part number for the adhesive you recommend to
attach the rear bow of the convertible top of an MGB to the top material.
I saw it on one of your videos on youtube but can no longer find it. By
the way, thank you for all of those videos. They are very helpful.
It is the 3M General Trim Adhesive. The part number is 08088.
MiscVin decipheringI recently purchased what I beleive to be, a 1967 Midget. I need help with the VIN. The paperwork states it as a 1967, but the VIN is GAN3L44137. Could you please decipher the Vin and let me know just what I have. Thanks a bunch.We were able to find that your car is a 65 or later. You could contact the "British Motor Heritage" and for $50 you could get all of the original information on your car. There should be a link on our website.
MiscVin Numbers I am working on and having a 1976 MGB limited restored. An officer with the stolen car task force was at the shop that is working on my MG, verifying a Vin number on a 1940 Ford Coup, and noticed that the Vin strip on the dash of my MG was loose. The officer picked it up and it appeared, to him, that the back rivets had been ground down and the strip then glued to the dash. Using his finger nail he popped lose the Vin plate on the drivers side door. The officer then looked at a number on the inside of the engine compartment to the right of the motor mount on the passenger side of the car and found a number there. That number did not match the number on the Vin plate from door.

I can not find anything that tells me if or where there are hidden Vin numbers or if the number that was found inside the engine on the frame is a frame number or the number part of the MGB Vin. Any links that would tell me what this number is or if there are hidden Vin numbers would be greatly appreciated.
The number on the engine does not match the on on the door. Only the dash top and door match. There are no hidden VIN numbers on the car. There was also no Limited Edition on 76 they only had the LE in 79 and 80.
MiscOriginal Sales RecordsI am restoring a 1966 Vanden Plas Princess 1100 that was first sold by University Motors in Hanwell in 1966. Do you have any contacts from Hanwell garage?
I would like to know if anyone knows where their sales record went.
The original University Motors worked out of several locations: Hanwell (where I worked); Epsom; and another I cannot remember right now. They were originally in the city center near Piccadilly, but the rent there became too high. I receive notes from time to time, as yours, but I've never found anyone who knew what happed to the original sales records. My guess is that they were all trashed. Even more frustrating is that I know of no one who worked in the offices who could offer you a better clue. When I called at the original building in 2000, where they were selling Toyotas or something, I enquired about the original University Motors. The salesman didn't know what I was talking about!
MiscMGB Rocker Switch Tool I have been watching all your You-tube videos and really enjoy them. I have learned a lot from watching you work on B's and your down to earth explanation on how to perform procedures. You just release 5 videos that I just watched and I was wondering about the MGB rocker switch tool. Can you tell me what gauge of steel did you use to make the tool and what are the dimensions of it? I am in the process of restoring my 71 MGB Roadster and would like to make such a tool to remove my rocker switches.

It's probably about 18 gauge -- stiff enough to depress the barbs but flexible enough to change dimentions simply by squeezing with thumb and forefinger. The switch is 1 1/4" tall, the tool should be about 1/2" wide.
MiscMGA Problems
MiscOrigamiHave you ever fixed an MG using origami?That would be interesting, but the answer is no.
PartsLooking for PartsLooking For:

1. Two switches plus red light to fill blank slots in console. The only switch I have now is the hazard and one round red lamp.
2. Set of wire wheels for same
3. Need to restore fenders behind front and rear wheels any suggestions.
4. Need console pieces behind radio and under stick.
5. Carpet Kit For trunk.
6. Chrome Vent cover on hood in front of wind shield.
7. Set of Sunvisors.

Regards Douglas Bell
modelrroader@aol.com

DOUGLAS!

Purchase your parts new from Moss or Victoria British in the USA, or Brown & Gammons or Moss in the UK. Find these parts used on www.mgcars.org.uk or through eBay.
PartsEngine Partstrying to locate engine parts for a mga 1600 (1588cc) motor, please, thanks, cindy douglas, douglas machine,

Try Moss Motors, Goleta California. They have a website www.mossmotors.com.
PartsParts I'm considering purchasing a 1969 MGC-GT up here in Toronto. The car I've found looks and runs great. The only thing that's holding me back from purchasing it is the potential problem of finding spare parts. I've looked at some of the catalogues from Moss, etc and they don't seem to carry much for the "C". I really want to buy but this car but I'm not going to if getting parts for it in North America is a nightmare. I know a lot of the parts, body etc are idential to the "B" but it's the engine/transmission/suspsension that I'm concerned about.

Any info (part source, experience) etc would be welcome.

Thanks
David

DAVID!

The MGC is much the same as the MGB, with these exceptions: engine; brakes; front suspension; steering. You know that only 9000 of these cars were built, and while the brakes, front suspension, and steering are unique, the engines are common with the Austin 3 litre cars (which are unknown on this continent). Yet, with a "Platinum Card" anything is available!

Please contact Jim Holody of London, Ontario -- he's been an MGC owner for years and knows these cars intimately. He'll also be able to tell you more about the ease and cost of MGC parts in Canada.

If you are an established MG owner, then the MGC is an interesting addition. Yet, if you have never had an MG, this car may (may) be more problemsome and/or difficult to maintain than you expect.

Hope this helps.
PartsParts Catalogmy name is stephen lakis and i am a recent owner of a spectacular
'57mga. do you have a parts catalogue that you could send me?
thank you.
steve lakis

STEVE!

I drove my spectacular 1962 MGA 1600 Mark II Deluxe to work this
morning -- but I erected the top when I put it into the garage -- don't know
how much more driving I'll be doing in it this year!

We do not sell parts by mail order. We do offer service. Watch our
Website for our winter technical seminars and component rebuild prices.

For parts: Moss Motors; Scarborough Faire; Todd Clark Spares (Swamp
Road, Doylestown, PA); Victoria British; Moss Darlington (England); and be
certain to join the MGA Register. Find everything at www.mgcars.org.uk!
PartsZB Magnette PartsHi,
I am looking for a steering wheel and a dome light for my ZB Magnette that I am restoring. Any ideas where I can get them? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Keith


Try NTG in Ipswich, England. Try Kip Motors in Dallas. Try Jeff Powell in Melrose Park, IL. Try Glenn Lenhard in St Petersburg, FL. Good luck!
PartsBrown and Gammonssomeone gave me a name of brown and gammons last week for a part but i have failed to find them on the net any help would appreciated. thanks, ronald Ron!

Try www.ukmgparts.com That should do it!

John
PartsPart DocumentationJohn,

You were so kind to reply earlier, I'd like to ask for a bit more help.

I am having difficulty finding Mk2-specific information.
Specifically, I do not know how to be certain what air intake manifold and
air cleaner canister were original equipment.

For example, I was recently told by an established UK parts company,
"The inlet manifold is exactly the same as the standard TD but bored out
to
accept the 1.5" carbs."
That supplier also wrote,
"As for the air cleaner cannister, I am not 100% sure if the original was
actually larger, as the connection pipe on the manifold did not differ."

How can I tell -- especially when dealing with a remote supplier and I
cannot examine the parts?
Does documentation of the parts exist?
Part numbers, dimensions, specifications?
Relative diameters and heights of the air filters, for example?
Differences in dimensions of air intake manifolds?
Even comparative pictures?

I would be extremely grateful for any help you could give.

Best regards, Steve
Steve!

The intake manifold is the same piece, only opened up to 1 1/2" --
that one is easy.

The air manifold and air cleaner, however, are specific to the TD
Mark II and are very rare (read "expensive") to find. Armed with a good
MasterCard and frequent searches on eBay, etc -- you'll find it!

Let me know how it works (worked) out.

John
PartsSource for PartsHELLO JOHN,
After having a look at the engine in my 1966 "B," it looks like it will wait to be gone through - sat toooooo long. Will try "good" rebuilt I bought in 2001 (check it out first).
What is the best source for engine parts (as in, where do you get them?) for a "civillian" in far Northern New York State, or a shop that works on automobiles? I have also read that even the pistons sold by MOSS Motors are 2nd rate substitutes, as the real thing is no longer available. If I were to guess, I'd try to find something the right size by Weisco (sp?) - used during my Karting days and in MANY oval track cars, among other applications. Hope it was a GREAT weekend and is a GOOD week.
Thanks
BILL
Bill!

All the original manufacturers are gone -- or combined into a division of Delphi. There is another manufacturer which supplies most of the British engine parts now -- County. These parts are sourced worldwide. Some may still come from England, some come from India. Not all the parts are the same high quality as the factory parts. Check EACH part carefully before fitting.

We purchase nearly all of our parts from Moss.

John
RestorationRestoring Early TDJohn-

I'm beginning to reassemble my 1950 TD (TD/2378 EXLU) having recovered it after 40 years in storage. In replacing some of the wood, I would like to know what type/size nails you use for fastening the sheet metal to the wood frame.

The car was first registered in the U.S. in July 1950. We are aiming to have her fully restored by July 2000. Do you know the manufacture date of the car? It is an early TD as it has the slow running cable and a couple of other TC features on it. Any help you can give will be appreciated.

Sincerely,

George Payne
Tucson, AZ

GEORGE!

Sitting here at the computer, I'm not certain what to tell you -- I really should ask Gregg at the shop who does all our T type work -- but I'm going to guess that the nail or brad should be about 3/4" long. The existing holes in the metal work should give you a good guide for the diameter -- certainly less than 1/8". Maybe something around a #20

Good luck with your TD! I do not have the production statistics, but Anders Clausager's book "The Original T Series" will have most of the information you need. More is available from publications from the New England MG T Register. I've copied this letter to the chairman of that organization.
RestorationRestorationMr. Twist,

I recently acquired my first MGB, a 1964 model, and I am very excited. I
also want to say thanks for the wealth of free information you provide via
the internet.

This car is not running, but is complete and nearly rust-free (it was
garaged, believe it or not, for 18 years). I am trying to do a renovation
(not a down-to-last-bolt restoration) on a tight budget, but I do NOT want
to cut corners. I am starting my work by going through the engine
completely, starting with the carbs. My question is this: my original
plan
was to go through the carbs, dismantle, clean, test, etc, before deciding
what parts to replace. Then I decided to go ahead and get a rebuild kit.
Now someone on one of the bulletin boards tells me I would be crazy if I
don't REPLACE the carbs entirely (expensive option!). What do you
recommend? Should I test, then assume I will be doing a rebuild? Will a
careful rebuild ensure that I have good working carbs? Help!

Thanks,

Brad Barkley

BRAD!

Let me offer some unsolicited advice first. STOP dismantling
the MGB now! If you continue, you'll spend $12,000 on parts and contacted
labour; or you will reduce your MGB into a pile of parts that has virtually
no value. So what's the next option?

Get this MGB running! First, work with and repair the brakes.
It doesn't matter if it goes, it only matters if it stops! Second, change
all the fluids, grease it all up, lubricate absolutely EVERYTHING! Then,
get the engine running. You'll have to work with or change the fuel pump
(NOTE! The new factory pumps are polarised -- make a decision NOW whether
you want your car positive or negative earth), run some fresh fuel through
the system. Spin the engine to get oil pressure (plugs out), change points
and condenser, and maybe the plugs, and fire it up. Then, go driving!

Drive the car for miles and miles. Only from this type of
"road test" can you determine the condition of the differential, the
gearbox, and the engine. It may well be that the engine is just fine -- but
if you take it apart now, you will be FORCED to spend $1200 or so in parts
and machine work.

The carbs? Why would anyone purchase new carbs? Rebuilding the
old carbs is relatively easy -- and if you want a set of beautifully
polished, excellent carbs -- I'll do the work for about $450 -- far less
than new (and they look original, and they look better than the new carbs).

Join the North American MGB Register (1-800-NAMGBR-1)

Send me your snail mail address and I'll add you to our
technical list!
RestorationRestorationJohn,

Thanks for your quick answer and advice.....now a follow up question, if I
may.

I like your idea to stop dismantling the car, except that part of it is
dismantled already. The carbs and intake are off the car, as is the
exhaust. I should explain...I have not yet TOUCHED the car to do
anything,
when I got it, several of the parts were off the car already and stored in
the boot. I know I have seen the distrubutor back there, and the brake
master cylinder. As I mentioned before, the carbs and intake. The brakes
are not intact and neither is the clutch.

GIven all of that, should I still take your advice and REassemble before I
do anything to DISassemble?

The car was running fine, apparantly, in 1978 and 1979 (I found old state
inspection tickets in the glove box) but then was parked for 18 years, and
then I think someone started dismantling and didnt get far. So, like I
said, I am in a quandry about which direction to move....put it back
together, or dismantle then put back together. Needless to say, after 18
years parked, every rubber and paper part on the car is shot.

So...now that you have more info, can you provide me more advice?

THanks so much....I am so happy to have this car, no matter its shape!!

BRAD!

My original suggestions still stand. Make it run and drive it
before you begin to further disassemble. Therefore, you'll need to ASSEMBLE
the car to make it driveable. Now it may be that you'll have to work with
the distributor, with the master cylinders, etc, but the ONLY way to test
the mechanical condition of the vehicle is to get it out on the road and
DRIVE IT. And, as (or more) importantly, if you have never driven the car,
your goal to get the car on the road will not be as strong. If you HAVE
driven the car, you'll want to make your restoration fast!
RestorationBody restoration Dear John,
Like so many others, I am facing a dilemma. The body on my '71 B is
in fairly poor condition under an ok looking paint/bondo job. My rockers
(which I know provide the majority of the support for the car) are about
30%
gone, my inner fenders have holes, the underside of the car looks like
something you'd expect to see in a junk yard. My jack points are too week
to lift the car at all (it bends instead). The rear wheel arches are
about
50 to 70% bondo and there are rust bubbles beginning to show in other
spots.
Here's my question... am I better off to buy a body shell (with the
accompanying hours of work chasing threads, restoring component after
component, etc) or to restore what I've got? Money is definitely tight
and
my last mechanic gave my rockers about two years before they would HAVE to
be redone.

Thanks,
Michael

Michael!

It will be far, far less expensive to abandon this 1971 MGB and
purchase an EXCELLENT 1971 MGB (or another year if you wish). The "best"
MGB around here sells for about $9,000. I've seen some very special earlier
MGBs and some very late model, low mileage MGBs sell for up to $15,000, but
those are very unusual cases, indeed. If you brought your car to my shop,
we did all the welding, the paintwork, and the interior, etc that would
accompany all this, we'd spend around $15,000.
If you've owned this car since new, if your first date with your
wife was in this car, then you've no option but to repair it! But, you can
see the dramatic difference in prices!

Good luck!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist, Service Manager
Restoration1950 TDJohn,
I have recently purchased a black 1950 MGTD. It has been in our family since 1958 and was shown in the 1970 years. It has been idle for several years now and was not taken care of as the owner was in the nursing home. It is (as far as I can tell) in fairly good shape needing only cosmetics and a few minor repairs. I removed the gas tank as It was rusted and had foul fuel in it. I have it in a caustic dip at American metal cleaning in Cincinnati. Of course, it will have to be repainted but the rest of the paint is very good and looks original. The seats were dry and terribly worn and torn (the odometer shows 90,000 plus) so I pulled them and currently we are having a professional rebuild done in 100% leather that will match the original perfectly.
I do not have a manual for the car. Do you sell them ? Also, do you sell a catalogue of parts available from your store ? If you reply by email, please include the cc: address above.

Awaiting your kind reply,

Dallas A. Cook

Your enquiry from so long ago has re-surfaced!

You've probably already found answers to your questions, but I've attached a list of workshop manuals and technical literature which you may find helpful.

Try Moss Motors and Abingdon Spares for your parts. We are not so far away that bringing the TD to us for service would be impossible!

John
Restoration
John,
I am rebuilding a 1952 MG TD and mine did not originally come with
turn signals, however I would like to add them to make it more
practical for everyday use. I am currently rewiring the entire car
and purchased a wiring harness with built in wiring for the turn
signals. What else do I need to do to fit turn signals to this car??
Do I have to replace the bulbs and the housing for the tail lights and
the front sidelamps, or do I need to add something new all together??
Thanks for the guidance in finishing this project.
Kate

Kate!

In addition to the wiring loom, you'll need a three pole flasher
unit; a turn signal relay; a turn signal switch; two new sockets for the
front wing lamps; and a dash indicator (if you wish to fit it). If you
don't fit the dash light, then go with a more modern two pole flasher (as a
1980 MGB turn signal flasher unit). If you don't want to purchase the
switch and relay new (probably $400 together), then find used ones on eBay
(you can always fix the old ones), OR, you can make up these parts with
non-original parts from radio shack for about $30. You have to fit those
front dual filament bulb holders, though. Hope this helps.

John
Restoration John,
I am rebuilding a 1952 MG TD and mine did not originally come with
turn signals, however I would like to add them to make it more
practical for everyday use. I am currently rewiring the entire car
and purchased a wiring harness with built in wiring for the turn
signals. What else do I need to do to fit turn signals to this car??
Do I have to replace the bulbs and the housing for the tail lights and
the front sidelamps, or do I need to add something new all together??
Thanks for the guidance in finishing this project.
Kate

Kate!

In addition to the wiring loom, you'll need a three pole flasher
unit; a turn signal relay; a turn signal switch; two new sockets for the
front wing lamps; and a dash indicator (if you wish to fit it). If you
don't fit the dash light, then go with a more modern two pole flasher (as a
1980 MGB turn signal flasher unit). If you don't want to purchase the
switch and relay new (probably $400 together), then find used ones on eBay
(you can always fix the old ones), OR, you can make up these parts with
non-original parts from radio shack for about $30. You have to fit those
front dual filament bulb holders, though. Hope this helps.

John
Restoration59A RestorationHello Mr. Twist:

On behalf of my uncle I'm writing to you. He's got a '59 MGA roadster that's been sitting in his garage for over 20 years now. Engine (1500 cc) was rebuilt in early '80s. He is unable to locate the original MGA service manual. The car is in restorable condition. He would need to locate a good source for new parts and also be able to restore some of the old parts on the car. Where can he find a service manual for a '59 MGA?
Richard!

There are several sources for books -- you can try classicmotorbooks.com in Osceola, WI; you can try mossmotors.com in Goleta California; or britbooks.com in Otego, New York.

I have attached a list of technical books that your uncle should consider purchasing.

John

RestorationRebuilding MC - missing linkAs you have noted on your webpage, and as I have found out first hand,
rebuilding the tandem brake mater cylinder on my 74 MGB is proving
difficult. During teardown of the cylinder, I discovered that the
connecting link between the primary and secondary pistons was trashed
beyond
recognition. The cylinder is completely rebuilt with the exception of
this
"missing link". Do you have access to these parts? Any recommendations
on
how to proceed? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Scott
Scott!

There are only a couple of components and repairs I do not suggest
for the home mechanic. One is front suspension; another is exhaust; another
is that master cylinder! They are really tricky. But to answer your
question, NO, I do not have that part. It seems horrible to have the whole
thing set to go except for that link -- but I've never been able to
fabricate one. My suggestion is to spend the long dollar and purchase a new
one!

John



RestorationReviving 72BJohn,
I am taking possession of a '72 MGB in the near future. The car has not been driven, or even started in over six years. Appearance wise it looks good, but having never owned a car in this circumstance before, I don't know what to do from a mechanical standpoint. Areas of concern are the battery, gas in the tank, brakes and cooling system. I don't want to make a bad situation worse by getting a new battery and trying to fire her up! The car has been in a garage, covered with an inexpensive car cover in WA state. I was unable to find a Q & A that addressed this situation specifically. Thank you for your time.
Jerry
Jerry!

I am going to give you a list of things to do here. You'll read through this and say, "I have to do all THAT?" Well, as you say, you could just put a battery in the car, start cranking it, and see what happens. We see the results of this type of revival from time to time in my shop. Although this list may seem long, take the several days to accomplish the steps, and you'll be a proud, happy owner who really understands your MGB! I can give you first hand horror stories for each item you may want to leave undone!

1) Remove the spark plugs, shoot several pumps from your oil can into each cylinder, then push the car in gear for ten feet or so to coat the inside of the cylinders with oil. Fit new Champion RN9YC (#415) spark plugs gapped at 0.035".

2) Remove the old battery(ies) and fit a new group 26 into the passenger compartment. Move the earth(ground) cable from the left box to the right side. If you have to purchase a new ground cable, buy it in BLACK instead of red! Fit new American wrap around battery clamps. If the bottom of the battery box is rotted away, fit a piece of 3/8" plywood to the bottom of the box (about 9x9).

3) Drain the gas tank. Be REALLY careful if siphoning, as inhaling gasoline is a ticket to the hospital, if not to the undertaker. Fill the tank with fresh 89 octane -- about eight gallons. Now remove the fuel line from the carb, have your associate hold it into a bottle or can, turn on the ignition and pump at least a pint of gasoline through the system to purge all the old gas. If the pump doesn't work, give it a good smack with the heel of your hand or with the wooden handle of your hammer (smack the body of the pump, not the plastic cap!). If the pump didn't work and you have to hit it to get it going, then pump about a quart out.

4) Drain and refill the differential with 80/90 hypoid gear oil. Too much trouble? At least top off the unit.

5) Drain and refill the gearbox with 20W/50 Castrol GTX - about two quarts. The filler plug (and dipstick) are located behind the radio on the RH side of the top of the tunnel. Use a hooked piece of coat hanger wire to extract this dipstick, then remove one of the rubber O rings. Too much trouble? At least top off the unit.

6) Drain and refill the engine (20W/50 Castrol GTX - 4 quarts). Change the oil filter, too. This must not be too much trouble!

7) Grease the front suspension -- find six zerks on the kingpins (five pointed towards the front, the left middle pointed backwards).

8) Grease the front wheel bearings. Now this is a task, no matter how you slice it. I won't go into the detail here, as I'm sure you can find the information in a book or on the web. If you cannot, write back and I'll take you through it, step by step. Use NGLI #2 grease.

9) Top off the brake master cylinder. Exercise the brake pedal. If the master cylinder was empty, then you must rebuild the rear brakes before you go. Remember: It matters not how quickly you go, it only matters how quickly you can stop!

10) Remove the fusebox and clean it. Whoa! What about all those wires? Make a chart -- but make CERTAIN that you get the fusebox replaced with the correct side up! The two bridged terminals are located at the top left. Clean the fusebox in a sandblaster, with a weak solution of acid, soda, or ammonia. The goal here is to remove the corrosion. Then, squeeze the terminals back together before refitting the fuses.

11) Clean the ignition points. This is most easily done by removing the distributor, but then requires refitting and retiming. You can just pull some sandpaper between the points. The point is to remove the corrosion from the points so that you get a good spark.

12) Remove the evaporative lines from the carbs -- these are the small (1/4") hoses that enter at the front of the front and the rear of the rear carbs and are, in turn, connected to the steel line passing over the top of the air cleaners. Remove the air cleaners. Now get your associate to switch the key ON. You'll hear the fuel pump tick tick tick as it pushes fresh gasoline up into the carbs. Now, it is not uncommon for the carbs to stick and want to overflow! So, it's your job to wait, holding a larger screwdriver by the shank, with the wooden or plastic handle to be used as a hammer. Look for an overflowing carb. If one of the carbs begins to overflow, beat it with the handle of the screwdriver. Beat it just below the inlet and don't be scared to smack it pretty hard. If you cannot stop the leaking you'll have to remove the carbs, and that is the subject of another letter!

The starting procedure: Depress the throttle and pull the choke out of the dash by two to three inches, turn it to the right which should lock it in place. Spin the engine until it starts. Immediately relax the choke until the engine runs the best, and begin to drive the car!

You may find that the clutch is rusted to the flywheel. This is not an uncommon malady, but it's easily fixed! When the clutch is rusted to the flywheel the pedal feels great (resistance to push) but the car simply cannot won't go into gear. So: get the engine warm; point the car down the driveway; put it into second gear; start it up (jerk, jerk, jerk) and start driving around the block. Depress the clutch and the throttle at the same time, rocking the car violently. The clutch WILL break loose.

A long list? Perhaps.... but followed carefully you'll be able to start up the car and drive into the sun!

Hope this helps!

John
RestorationTo Restore, Or Not to Restore?John,

I have a 1972 MGB that I bought for restoration back in 1986. I left it at my parents while I was in the military for 6 years. I thought they were starting the car and driving it occasionally but unfortunately I found out much later that they hadn't touched it so to make a long story short it has been sitting in the same place for over ten years, exposed to the elements. All sections of the car have major rust. I'm not sure what the frame looks like since I haven't taken it apart.
Taking your best guess, is it possible to restore this car at this point or should I carefully try to get this thing to a junk yard before it crumbles into powder?
And if it is possible to restore what is the best approach? Get rid of everything but the frame or try to salvage what hasn't rusted?

Thanks,

Gene
Gene!

It is always possible to restore any MG. It might need a new body, it might need other major components. Bring it to me and I'd bet we'd run through $50,000 to return a brilliant MGB to you. You can, on the other hand, simply place a garbage tag on this one, save $40,000, and go out and purchase the best 1972 MGB you can find for $10,000. But.....

Let's say you had a dog. You loved the dog. Your parents kept the dog for you for six years. The dog barely remembered you -- but it was and IS your dog. You take it home. It gets sick. You take it to the vet. Vet shakes his head and says, "Son, it'll cost $2500 to fix up your dog. It would be cheaper to shoot the son-of-a-bitch and then go to the pound and get a new dog for $25." But you cannot -- it's your dog. You spend the money.

Very little on the carcass will be good -- but if you do decide to purchase another, PLEASE don't send the MGB to the scrap yard! Find someone, somewhere, who will take the car from you.

Hope this helps!

John
RestorationMGB Body Restoration OptionsI am working on restoring my 1972 MGB but I have a problem. The body of the one I have is just too damaged and I need to find one that's in good shape but needs the mechanicals.

Any ideas on where I should look?

Options include a new body shell from England -- probably around $10,000 with shipping. "Too much!!" you scream. Not really! It's the best deal out there!

Or, go on eBay and find another car with a "perfect" body. Something from Texas, Arizona -- someplace dry.

Have your body rebuilt by Carl Heideman at Eclectic Motorworks -- might cost $10-$15,000 but it will be YOUR car.
StartingEngine Startup After RebuildHi John: Good to see you back in business. The TF rebuild continues with everything just about in place to get the engine running--at least that's the plan. Glenn helped a bit with the radiator before Christmas and that's now mounted. Some more to do with the steering column mount and so on, but all the big stuff in place. Any previously written piece that you can recommend with a check list for starting an engine after a total rebuild? Thanks. Regards, Tom Lecklider--- Venice FLTom, With the plugs out, spin the engine until you get oil pressure BEFORE starting the engine. Once it's started, let it run at around 2500 for twenty minutes or so to assure the cam wear in correctly. Use ZDDP, even extra ZDDP at startup. Use standard engine oil. Set the timing at 32 degrees before top dead center at maximum advance (around 3000-4000 rpm). 32 degrees before is 1.004 inches ahead of the TDC mark on the front pulley. Use a piece of tape with one inch scribed and lay that on the front pulley to indicate your new mark before scribing or painting it. I usually leave the valves at 0.030" or so while it's running in. Then retorque the head to 50# and set the valves to 0.015" or the manufacturer's spec. Expect the studs to bubble during the run-in. Don't walk away from the engine while it's running. Watch the temp and oil pressure like a hawk! Hope this helps!
StartingRestarting Stored Car John - I hope all is well - I stored my 62 B for a little longer this year - almost 7 months - I followed your tips re storing - I moved it a few times - What should I do re starting it - Any special tips so I do not harm the engine

Stuart Auld

STUART!

My only suggestion is to disconnect the ignition coil (so the engine won't start), then spin the engine over until you have an indication of oil pressure on the gauge. Once you've got pressure, then reconnect the coil and you're on your way. Be certain to check your Brake Fluid!!!
StartingWon't StartI VISITED YOU LAST FALL AND PURCHASED AN AXLE FOR MY 57 MGA WHICH I HAD JUST RECENTLY PURCHASED.

I HAVE FINALLY PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AFTER MANY INTERRUPTIONS. NOW THE CAR WON'T START. I BELIEVE ITS THE FUEL PUMP BUT IT COULD BE IN THE FUEL LINE OR FILTER. THERE IS A FILTER CARTRIDGE JUST BEFORE THE CARBS. IT HAS NO FUEL IN IT.

THERE IS POWER TO THE PUMP. I CHECKED THE FUEL LINE FOR A CRIMP. I HAVE NOT YET REMOVED THE LINE FROM THE CARB TO SEE IF IT WILL FLOW.

I HAVE NOT RULED OUT THE FUEL PUMP MAY BE BAD BUT IT WORKED FINE WHEN I DROVE IT HOME. BEFORE BREAKING THE AXLE.

BEFORE I PURCHASE A FUEL PUMP WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST I CHECK?

DO YOU HAVE ANY REBUILTS?

RICHARD GRUCZ

RICHARD!

Inspection of the fuel filter is, in itself, not satisfactory when checking for fuel. I would suggest that you remove the pipe to carb line from the carb, put it into a bottle or can, and turn on the ignition. If fuel does not flow freely (one pint per minute), then BEAT the fuel pump with your fist. If it does not begin clicking, then check the polarity of the pump and the battery. Some pumps are polarized -- usually, if the pump has RED tape around the solenoid, it is POSITIVE earth, if the pump has BLACK tape around the solenoid, it is NEGATIVE earth. Earlier pumps are not polarized and work equally well either positive OR negative earth. If all fails, purchase a NEW PUMP!

Hope this helps!
StartingStarting Stored Car I have just bought a 1970 MGB from a trusted friend I have known for quite some time. The car has not been run for about 10 years but, has been sitting sheltered. The car was reportedly running well when it was put up and appears to be in good shape.

Question:

Besides changing oil, filters, plugs and other "routine" maintainance, is there anything I should be aware of before trying to start the engine? Considering the amount of time the car has been idle, is there anything I should be aware of or look at before trying to "fire it up". I'm not really talking about driving it, just trying to start the engine after such a long idle time.

Thanks,

Richard

Richard!

If you brought the car into my shop, this is what I would do:

Drain the oils from the engine, diff, and gearbox, and refill the engine/gearbox with 20W/50 and the diff with 80/90. Drain the gas tank and fill with several gallons of $2.00 per gallon (!) high test (92/93 octane) gasoline. Remove the battery, wash it thoroughly, and refit it, fully charged. Check the fuel pump delivery -- pull a line off the carb and place it into a can -- have your associate turn on the key and pump out a pint or so.

Remove the plugs and spin the engine over -- make certain that you have oil pressure. Fit new N9Y plugs gapped at 0.035". Remove the distributor and fit new points (gapped at 0.015").

Now you can start it up! Watch out for the dog food, nuts, whatever, shooting from the tailpipe!!
StartingStarting Problem I am a new owner of a 1975 MGB, the car runs pretty good but when it gets warmed up and I shut it off it won't start until I lift the piston in the carb just a little then it will fire right up. Is ther a fix for this problem?
Thank you for your time.

Dennis Vallier

Dennis! Those Strombergs have a lot of specific faults -- but it's all
workable. Your carb is simply too rich after it's shut down. When you
lift the piston it leans the mixture dramatically. Perhaps the following
will help:

THOSE DAMN ZENITH STROMBERGS

The Home model MGBs and Midgets were not plagued with
this Triumph inspired imitation SU, we are. The Home and
most export model MGBs (except North America) continued to
use twin HIF4 carbs, the Midgets, HS4s on the Triumph 1500
engine, while the Canadian, Federal, and California
specification MGs were fitted with the Stromberg.
Emission specifications were cited as reasons to move to
one carb (more easily kept in tune than two carbs), but
why not choose the HIF6? Despite all the assurances of
the manufacturer that this single carb could lessen
emissions, the Zenith often runs dramatically rich.

When the carburetter does run extremely rich, and if
the emission control system (air pump and catalytic
converter) is still in place, then the converter will glow
cherry red hot. This carburetter is responsible for
hundreds of underbonnet fires! Yet, with a little regular
maintenance, this carb will perform correctly and safely,
while offering relatively high mileage compared to the
twin SUs.

ADJUSTING THE CARBURETTER
To properly tune the stromberg, one must have the
Stromberg adjusting tool (a 1/8" allen wrench within a
pinned tube), a 10mm long open end wrench, a small
screwdriver, and a medium screwdriver. A tach/dwell is
always most helpful.

The engine is started from cold, and the spring
loaded idle screw is adjusted until the engine is running
at 1800 rpms maximum. One the engine has fully heated and
the engine dropped to its lowest rpm (choke all the way
off), then the locknut screw (hence the 10mm wrench) is
adjusted until the engine is idling at about 850-900 rpms.
All further adjustments to idle speed will be made again
with the spring loaded screw.

Now the mixture is adjusted. Lift the air piston
ever so slightly and judge the change in rpm. If the idle
speed continues to rise as the piston is lifted, the
mixture is too rich. Turn the allen wrench anti clockwise
to lean it out. If, on the other hand, the idle speed
slows or stumbles when the piston is slightly lifted, then
the mixture is too lean. Turn the allen wrench clockwise
to richen it. A proper idle mixture allows the rpm of the
engine to rise and steady, or rise and slowly fall off as
the piston is slightly lifted. As the correct mixture is
reached, the idle speed will rise, and several adjustments
may be necessary to hold the idle at that 850-900 figure.
Be certain to rev up the engine, to clear it out, between
each adjustment.

When adjusting the carb at home, tighten the air
bleed screw (MGB) so that no air passes through this
circuit.

RUNNING RICH
The most common complaint is that no matter how many
turns anti-clockwise the allen wrench is screwed, the
mixture is still far too rich. There are five major areas
of concern:

1) The air cleaner is filthy and sooted. This is
not uncommon, and any leaks in the manifold/exhaust,
especially a cracked exhaust manifold, will soot up a new
air cleaner in no time. This causes a much higher vacuum
in the venture, and more gasoline is drawn into the air
stream.

2) The ELC system is pressurized. This is very
uncommon, but easily checked. Remove the vapour line, the
vent line, the overflow line from the carburetter. This
line travels across the valve cover on the MGB to the
charcoal adsorption canister, or directly to the canister
on the Midget. There should be NO CHANGE in the idling or
operation of the engine. If there is any change, then the
ELC system needs to be cleaned, and checked for blockages.
It is far more common for this system to develop a vacuum
which creates a lean running condition, in fact the
primary reason for lean operation!

3) The automatic choke is the most common cause of
rich running. These problems are:

a) The choke assy has come loose from the body
of the carb. The vacuum from the carburetter then draws
fuel from the float bowl around the valve which should is
closed during warm running. Simply tightening the three
slotted copper coloured screws eliminates this as a
problem.

b) The choke lever and cam have stuck in a
part-open position. A good tune-up requires that the
choke assembly be removed from the carb, that it be well
cleaned in spray carb cleaner, the pin nut tightened, and
the unit well lubricated.

c) The bi-metal spring in the heat mass is not
correctly calibrated. Simply place the heat mass in a pan
of boiling water, and wait for the bi-metal spring to
rotate clockwise to its fullest extent. The notch on the
bi-metal spring should be in line with the mark on the
aluminium housing. If it does not line up, then scribe a
new mark with a hacksaw blade. The line on the heat mass,
on the black plastic insulator, and the choke body should
all be in line.

d) The small passageway from the carb throat
(past the butterfly) to the top of the auto choke assy
allows vacuum to pull off the spring loaded enrichment
plunger. When this passageway fills with soot (as it does
after years of running), this plunger remains seated,
holding the choke ON. By cleaning this passageway with a
small wire, the vacuum can take its proper route.

e) The mating flange of the auto choke can
become warped and allow petrol to by-pass the choke valve.
SURFACE this mating flange on a smooth block with fine
grit paper and thoroughly clean after the surface is
smooth.

f) Only several times have we encountered a
choke assembly whose brass choke valve was not fully
inserted into the housing, so that even when the choke pin
was moved fully downwards, it was not seated in (and
therefore not closing off) the choke. This condition can
be positively determined by removing the automatic choke
and covering the screw holes and fuel passageways with a
piece of masking tape, then checking the mixture again.

4) Should the rubber diaphragm in the carburetter
tear or perforate, then the engine will run very, very
rich, and the maximum speed of the MG will be limited,
until, at last, it can travel only ten or fifteen miles
per hour, all the while spewing forth incredible clouds of
black, sooty, uncombusted exhaust. A torn diaphragm is
easily found by removing the top of the suction chamber
(four phillips screws). While the diaphragm is being
inspected, pay attention to the following.

5) Rarely does a needle disassemble itself, but it
does happen. The metering needle is held in a small
barrel against spring force by a very small pin. If this
pin breaks, the needle pops upwards by 1/8" or so, and no
amount of adjusting can correct for such a gross
misplacement of the needle. The shoulder of the needle
can always be seen on the underside of the air piston. If
it has slipped up inside, and the metering needle has a
lot of up and down (against the spring) movement, then the
pin should be check and replaced (a paper clip works
wonderfully).

RUNNING LEAN
A leanness at road speed is often described as a
hesitation, as if a wind was blowing against the car.
This can be caused by retarded timing or not enough
gasoline in the air/fuel mixture. There are several
possibilities for a lean running condition:

1) The ELC System (Evaporative Loss Control) is
plugged which can place a vacuum above the gasoline in the
float bowl. As noted above, remove the vent line from the
carb and note any change. A plugged charcoal adsorption
canister (from dirt or from a previous overflowing
carburetter condition), or a plugged vent line from the
bottom of the anti- run on valve are the most common
problems.

2) The float height is set far too low.

3) The air cleaner is not fitted to the
carburetter. as unusual as this seems, and for reasons
that are unclear to this author, the Stromberg carburetted
MGB will not run with the air cleaner removed (or a vanity
air filter to replace the original). Oh, it will get to
2500 rpms or so, but then flattens out -- no good for any
kind of driving.

CARB WILL NOT IDLE DOWN
Sometimes the carb will not idle at lower than 1000
or 1200 rpms. This is almost always a mechanical problem,
but the possibilities include:

1) Throttle cable is stiff or incorrectly adjusted.
Leave this cable loose until the carb is completely
adjusted, THEN tighten the two nuts with 7/16" wrenches.

2) The cam within the automatic choke is not
returning to a "full off" position, sometimes caused by a
melted plastic plunger on the bottom side of the unit.
Melted? Remember that cherry red hot catalytic converter?
Sometimes the levers are bent. They all work on nice,
sharp, 90 degree angles.

3) The overrun valve is floating open at a very low
manifold depression. The spring loaded valve on the
throttle disc is designed to open only at extreme manifold
vacuum --deceleration. If there has been a fire within
the carburetter, the spring may have lost its force. The
valve is easily soldered shut obviating any further
problem (and increasing throttle deceleration response).
Heat the valve from the button side with a propane torch
and flow solder into the valve from the spring side.
The Midget overrun valve can be completely shut off by
fully unscrewing the small slotted screw on the triangular
shaped device on the right side of the carb.

AIR LEAKS AT IDLE
Any tuning or mixture adjustment is impossible if
there are air leaks between the carburetter and the
cylinder head. This is a very common occurrence,
unfortunately, but the leaks are easily identified. With
a can of aerosol carburetter cleaner, spray into areas
where leaks are found while the engine is idling. If
there is an air leak, the rpms will rise or fall
(depending on the
StartingStarting Problemsplease advise...my 64b has electronic ignition and is a daily driver.
w/in the past week she has gone from starting instantly (both cold & hot)
to
barely starting @ all, even w/ long turnover time. in fact, she even gave
me a puff of smoke through the heater vent once when turning her over.
help is needed and appreciated
pfm

PADRAIC!

The MGB needs compression, spark at the right time, and fuel to
start. So, in a logical order, remove the plugs, clean or replace them (use
CHAMPION RN9YC gapped to 0.035"), and while they're out, check the
compression. Any figures, as long as they're within 10% are fine.

Then, check spark -- do this by inserting the end of a phillips
screwdriver into one of the spark plug wires. Turn on the ignition and spin
the engine over (use the pushbutton on the starter solenoid), holding the
shank of the screwdriver close to the engine block. You should get a nice,
crisp, blue spark, perhaps 1/4 - 1/2 inches long. Remove the cap and rotor,
and inspect the electronic ignition components to ensure they have not come
loose. I, personally, am NO fan of electronic ignition. It is not
necessary on our cars, AND, if there is a problem, you're dead until you get
another unit. With points, you can ALWAYS get back on the road.

Finally, check fuel flow -- your fuel line should spill out one pint
per minute into a can.

If you encounter difficulties, call me between 1-2pm EST Mon - Fri
at 616 682 0800 and I'll walk you through your problem.

FAST FORWARD!
StartingWon't StartDear Mr. Twist,
I have owned MG's for over twenty years and have never had any
serious running problems with them. When I did have problems it was
usually
easy to at least point in a certain direction either electrical, fuel or
human error.
My MG usually runs very well. Today I had the day off so I decided to
take the MG to run some errands. First I stopped and got a cup of coffee.
Then to the drive-up at the bank. Then to the post office. When I left the
post office I started the car and started to back up. While backing and
having my head turned I heard a "pow". My first thought was that it back
fired through the carburetor and just tried to restart it and go. It
wouldn't
start. My next thought was that maybe the fuel pump screwed up and I may
have
had only enough fuel to run errands.
I have the car towed back home and start to run down the normal check
list.
1. Gas at carb, fuel pump running.
2. Spark from coil to distributor.
3. Spark from distributor to plugs.
4. Compression 155-145-145-150.
5. Rotor points to number 1 spot on the distributor cap when the number 1
piston is
at TDC.
6. Check valves for proper adjustment .015 cold.
7. Vacuum lines appear to be working.
I try to get the car to start. It won't start. I know there is fuel at
the carbs, but how do I know that there is fuel in the carbs. My next
thought
goes to an inertia switch that is located behind the dash somewhere around
the steering wheel that kills the gas flow if the car tuns over or
something
like that. Maybe that was that "pow'" that I heard? As you can tell I am
now
grasping for straws. When I pour gas straight into the carbs then try to
start it, it will run (race) for a moment then shut down. Not like it is
running out of fuel but like somebody pulled the plug out of the wall and
it
shut down. Could you please help?
Thanks a John Twist fan,
Dave Matos

DAVE! Just a guess here, but check it out. The "pow" was not a backfire
but a spitting through the carbs. Sometimes when that happens, the freeze
plug in the end of the intake manifold (two ends - two plugs) is blown out.
That leaves a one inch hole for fresh air. No mixture enrichment (aside
from your dumping gasoline into the carb) can overcome that amount of fresh
air. I believe the size is 1 1/8, but you're best advised to remove the
manifold to replace it (you virtually HAVE to if it's the rear one).
If this is NOT the problem, let me know.
StartingStarting ProblemsDEAR MR. TWIST,

MY WIFE AND I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 1979 MIDGET. THE CAR HAD 47,750
MILES AND HAD BEEN PAINTED ONCE. THE PAINT JOB WASN'T THE BEST BUT
THERE IS ALMOST NO RUST. WHEN WE WERE CONSIDERING BUYING THE CAR WE
HEARD THE NORMAL LINE OF QUESTIONING...BUT IT'S BRITISH, WON'T IT BREAK
DOWN?....HOW RELIABLE IS IT?....CAN YOU GET PARTS?....ISN'T IT EXPENSIVE
TO REPAIR? I'M SURE YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN. MY FIRST CAR WAS A 1977
TRIUMPH TR7. THIS IS THE ONLY CAR THAT EVER MADE MY FATHER REALLY SWEAR
LIKE A SAILOR (AND HE HAD BEEN A MECHANIC FOR 30 YEARS). YES THE TR7
WAS A PILE OF CRAP BUT IT WAS A BLAST TO OWN AND BEING 17 I THOUGHT I
WAS KING OF THE WORLD. SINCE THEN I HAVE OWNED A NUMBER OF CARS BUT
HAVE NEVER LOST THE DESIRE TO OWN ANOTHER BRITISH SPORTS CAR. LUCKY FOR
ME MY WIFE CHRISSY FELT THE SAME WAY. WELL, I'M 30 NOW AND SUPPOSED TO
BE MORE PRACTICAL, BUT I BOUGHT THE MG ANYWAY. ALL THE PEOPLE WHO ASK
THE QUESTIONS PROBABLY HAVE NEVER OWNED A MG. THIS CAR IS A DELIGHT TO
OWN AND DRIVE EVEN IF IT BREAKS DOWN ONCE IN A WHILE. PEOPLE WHO DRIVE
TOYOTAS DON'T HAVE PEOPLE STOP AND SAY "HEY, GREAT LITTLE CAR...WHAT IS
IT ANYWAY?". I SAY THAT WE BOUGHT THIS CAR BUT MY WIFE HAS MAID IT
QUITE CLEAR THAT THIS IS HER CAR. WHICH IS OK, SHE LOOKS BETTER DRIVING
IT THAN I DO. ITS MY CAR WHEN IT DOESN'T RUN. AT THE TIME BEING THE
CAR HAPPENS TO BE ALL MINE, WHICH BRINGS ME TO THE REAL REASON FOR
DROPPING YOU A LINE. MY WIFE DROVE THE CAR TO WORK LAST WEEK AND IT
STARTED AND RAN JUST FINE. THE CAR SAT IN THE PARKING LOT OF THE CHURCH
(SHE IS A CHRISTIAN SCHOOL TEACHER) FOR ABOUT 10 HOURS. WHEN WE TRIED
TO START THE CAR IT WOULD NOT FIRE. A FRIEND LOOKED AT THE CAR AND HE
THOUGHT THAT THE DISTRIBUTOR WAS GETTING SPARK BUT THERE WAS NO SPARK AT
THE PLUGS. WHEN WE GOT THE CAR HOME I TESTED THE SPARK PLUG WIRES AND
THERE SEEMED TO BE PLENTY OF SPARK AT THE PLUGS. THE CAR CRANKS GREAT
BUT WILL JUST NOT FIRE. CAN YOU OFFER ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT I SHOULD
LOOK FOR?...CARBURETOR?...FUEL PUMP?...OTHER IGNITION PROBLEMS? I
CERTAINLY AM NOT THE EXPERT THAT YOU ARE SO ANY THING WOULD BE HELPFUL.

THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND A GREAT WEBSITE.
DARRIN J. GREEN

Darrin! Reading your letter, typed in all caps, is difficult on the eyes!

Remember that you have to have spark and you have to have fuel --
you don't have one. So, remove the plugs, ensure they are CLEAN and gapped
at 0.035" -- watch one to ensure that you DO have spark at the plug. Since
is it impossible to dissolve carbon from the plug (and wire brushing is a
futile exercise), either sandblast the plugs or buy new ones (Champion N12Y,
maybe with an R prefix and a C suffix).

Remove the fuel line from the carb -- spin the engine over -- now BE
CAREFUL!! -- you want to ensure a supply of gasoline to the carb. If you
have spark AND gasoline, then call me during my technical hour 1-2pm EST M-F
and I'll work you through some more steps.

Attached may be helpful.
Starting1975 Midget 1500 - Starting up after a 4 year sleep

Dear John:
Your operation is indeed very impressive. I only wish you were closer(I'min N.Y.).
I'm recently the owner of a 1975 Midget that had extensive work done 9 years ago and most recently has been sitting unused for 3-4 years. What should I look for and do in bringing this beauty to life again. Thank you.
Al
AL!

Remove the battery and clean the posts and clamps and/or fit a new
battery. Pull the fuses, pinch the terminals, refit the fuses. Check the
clutch and brake fluids. Change the engine oil and filter -- then, remove
the plugs and spin the engine until you have oil pressure. After that,
attend to things on a fault basis.

Hope this helps!

John

StartingMGB Motor Starting Dear Mr. Twist: I am a member of NAMBGR and was reading over your
technotes on the website looking for a solution to a problem I am
investigating. I recently acquired a '77 MGB which runs great except
for a starting problem. When the car sits for 24 hours or so, to start
it I have to turn the motor over repeatedly in 1-2 second runs. It
starts about the tenth or eleventh time--sputtering a bit but then
revving up just fine. I guess I am spoiled with my '66 Chevy just
starting like a dream with one pump of the gas pedal. I know I am not
supposed to prime the MGB at all prior to startin, and I don't, but I
can't narrow the problem down. I figure I have a fuel pump problem or
choking problem--maybe a clogged carburetor. It is taking me awhile to
get used to working on this engine, but it is a lot of fun. Anything
within reason I am sure I can fix. I have rebuilt my Chevy carburetor
lots of times--any suggestions?

I just love this car and want to get it back into its original
configuration. I also am trying to rebuild the air pump to re-install
on the engine which the previous owner removed from the engine. I am
thinking it might just be easier to buy a re-conditioned unit. Many
thanks for any ideas on the starting problem or my air pump project.

George
George!

It is proper, and necessary, the beat the throttle to the floor a
couple of times before trying to start the engine. This sets the automatic
choke -- the more dramatically you can knock the pedal, the more shock is
applied to the autochoke unit, and the greater chance there will be that the
choke will "kick on." Failing that, you could have the auto choke rebuilt,
or simply follow the instructions enclosed.

Hope this helps!

John

StartingMGB Won't StartHi John,

I recently rebuilt my 1976 MGB engine, the car won’t start. I hear some click coming from the starter so I removed to be able to check the connection and also I did a visual inspection on the starter and everything looked ok so I reinstalled it again. I still hear the click but this time the starter motor start turn the engine slowly. I saw that I had a weak battery , I recharged it but the starter continues with the same click and motor engine is still slow, this time I removed the spark plug (less resistant) and the starter motor engine was faster and no more click sound. I think I have a weak starter if so what parts would I need to change in order to fix this.



Also on the SU fuel pump what is the number or the name for the yellow diode, I seen people install in the pump to replaced the condenser to help the point
Thank you very much
Jorge
Jorge!

The starter motor. It may be that the starter or the battery or the connections between are not in good condition. It may be that the engine is really tight and simply will not spin over.

Charge the battery for at least one day! Remove the clamps, clean the posts and the terminals, ensure that the strap from the battery to the frame is clean and tight.

Look at your earth connection between the engine and the frame. Does it make this connection?

Take your 12 volt test light, clip one end onto the engine (a bolt), and place the probe end against the frame or a bolt on the chassis (like the bolt that holds the ignition coil). Have your associate spin over the engine. Your test light should NOT illuminate. If it does, you have a faulty earth (or no earth) between the engine and the frame.

You can always tow the MG behind another car, plugs out, in second gear, about 25 mph, and that will spin up the engine (you already have oil pressure?) If you do not have oil pressure quickly, disengage and coast home!

Please call as we can work together to get you back on the road.

John
StartingEngine Will Not Crank Over

My MGB was running, I turned it off. A little later I turned the key, it tried to start. I turned the key again and nothing happened. I have checked the battery, cleaned the battery connections, checked the fuses, All my accessories work- lights, wipers, headlights. I tested the ignition switch to the starter solenoid - had current. I replaced the relay - thinking that is the problem. No luck. I replaced the solenoid and starter last night - Still no luck. Could it have anything to do with the safety belt connection in the driver's seat or the electrical connection to the alternator? I am stumped and frustrated in Ohio!

Thanks!

Sincerely,

Bill
Bill!

Two tests:

Place your hand on the starter relay, have your associate turn the key to "start". You should feel the relay click. If it does, then the key switch and the seat belt interlock are working OK. If it doesn't, then the interlock would be the culprit. Yet, I'm confused because you already told me that you had current from the key switch to the starter solenoid.

Pull the WHITE/BROWN wire from the relay. Touch this to the bottom fuse. The starter motor may operate (then you know the wire and starter/solenoid are OK). The wire may spark and nothing occurs -- faulty starter. The wire may not spark and nothing occurs -- WHITE/BROWN disconnected or incorrectly connected at the starter motor.

Give me a call!

John
StartingStarter Continuing to RunJohn,
Today for the first time my starter did not stop running after ignition. Turned it off and second time was normal. Third time, did it again. Any idea of possible cause and where to start?

Keith
Keith!

The starter motor continues to run for one of three reasons: the key switch, the ignition relay, or the starter motor solenoid. The most common is that the key switch worn. If the key feels wonderfully positive and the switch SNAPS from START to ON, then the switch probably isn't the problem. You can temporarily wire through the starter relay (round plastic, just to the rear of the fuse box). Pull off the WHITE/RED and the WHITE/BROWN, and connect them together. If the relay was the problem, it won't stick on now. Replace the relay with a Lucas SRB 402. If the key switch is not the problem and the relay is not the problem, then the starter motor is at fault -- but this is so rare that I'm sure it's not the problem in your 79 MGB.

Hope this helps a little!

John
StartingWon't Start, MGBI have a 1972 GT that has suddenly developed problems starting. I searched your archives but did not find the answer.

I had not started it for two weeks and it was turning over when it suddenly stopped turning. When the key is turned there is no click or other engine sound. I thought the battery was dead (it was at least 3 years old). I replaced the battery and the lights were working. Then I tried to start the engine and heard one lound click from the engine. The lights stopped working and radio went off. Again when the key turned, no sound. So I disconnected the battery, unplugged the radio, and checked all the fuses. Reconnected the battery, lights working. Turned the key, lound click again on the first attempt. Then nothing again; lights out. Checked all fuses and connections to the starter. Battery tests good. Was running fine the last two+ years. Thanks. Glen
Glen,


You've got an erratic connection in the main electrical circuit. It could be one of the battery clamps, or the connection of the wire to the clamp. It could be the earth strap at the battery box. It could be the main battery cable (or BROWN wires) at the starter solenoid. But it most certainly lies in one of those connections.

Please let me know what you found.

John
StartingMGB StartingJOHN
I have a 1979 mgb and cannot figure what is the problem with my mgb. The car starts up but then dies even when I start the car and then pump the peddle nothing happens just dies out. Have changed the distributor to point took out the electronic distibutor. Changed the cylinder.Changed the needle in the carburator also took the hose from the carburator and there is gas when the key is on.
What else do you think I can try to get my 1979 MGB to run?
Thank you
JE
JE!

You need compression, spark, and gasoline to make the engine operate. One of these is present when you start the car, but then you lose it. That would not be the compression.

If the car starts but then fails immediately when you relax the key switch from START to ON, then the problem is in the ignition wiring. Have you had body work done recently?

If the car starts but then fails five to ten second after you've started, then the problem is fuel, and there's something plugging the evaporative charcoal canister. Remove the vent line from the carb to the canister (1/4" hose), and see it it runs then.

Let me know and I'll continue to assist you. If you can call during technical hour we can get through this far more quickly.

John
Starting1980 B Won't StartJohn,
Our 1980 B won't start. It has gas and pump works fine. It has compression and good spark. We had the choke fixed and it ran good for two weeks. Now it will turn over but no fire whatsoever.

Any hints?


Thanks,

Davie
Davie,

You have to have gasoline and you have to have spark.

Remove the fuel line from the carb, place it into a bottle or can, turn on the ignition -- the fuel pump should deliver one pint per minute.

Remove one of the spark plug wires, push it onto the shank of a Phillips screwdriver, hold the shank close to the coil, the block, the dipstick, whatever -- have your associate spin over the engine -- you should get a nice, crisp, blue spark about 1/4" long.

Change the spark plugs. Use Champion #415 which are RN9YC gapped at 0.035"

Still won't run? Let me know and we'll go through the next set of conditions -- carb problems.

Watch my YouTube video about the late model Stromberg and evaporative control system.

Hope this helps!

John

StartingHello John.

Let me start off by saying that your YouTube videos are great! I like seeing people put something worth while/educational on there instead of the usual dog skateboarding. I am considering purchasing a fixer upper 1959 MGA that hasn’t been started in a long time (7 years). Do you have a basic checklist that you use in a situation like this to start up a car in this situation? I know I will need to treat this carefully before just putting a new battery in and cranking it over. I imagine the engine as being pretty dry throughout.

I appreciate any input that you might have and I will keep watching your videos.

Talk to you later.

Brandon


Brandon,

If you brought your MGA here this is what I'd do:

Remove the plugs and introduce a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder.
Change the engine oil and filter
Spin the engine over until I had noted oil pressure on the gauge
Fit cleaned or new plugs
Remove the distributor and clean the points, set the gap to 0.015", and static time the engine at 10 degrees before top dead center
Remove the float bowl lids, clean out the float bowls
Remove the suction chambers, clean them, clean the air pistons, and lightly sand (with 600 paper - something like that) the metering needles to remove the verdigris.
Exercise the jets by moving the choke levers up and down about 50 times, all the time spraying the linkage and the inside of the carbs with oil.
Drain the fuel tank, introduce new fuel, then purge the fuel system by pumping a pint of fuel into a bottle or can.

Now the engine will start right up!

John
StartingMGB Starting TroubleI have a 66 B, it has been running very nicely until last week-end when it would not turn over. Turned key is start position and nothing. Thought is was battery, charged it, cleaned all contacts...nothing. Had a spare ignition switch and replaced it. After cleaning and checking other contacts ( fuses, starter solenoid, starter). I cranked it up and it started (turned over) as normal. After replacing the radio, tried to start is again and nothing again. Retraced all previous steps and still nothing. I know I've got good connections because it will start if I do it from the starter solenoid only. So...is it the key switch or do I still have a bad connection somewhere else.From your notes it would seem that the starter motor operates if you manually push the button on the starter solenoid. Yet, even after changing the ignition switch, turning the key to the start position will not operate the solenoid. I have two tests for you that will determine the fault:

First, use your test light on the WHITE/RED wire that attaches to the starter solenoid. Place one end of the test light on the wire, the other to ground. Test the switch 20 times. Each time you turn it to start the light should illuminate.

Next, use a jumper wire and jump from the hot side of the solenoid (the terminal with the heavy BROWN wire) to the spade on the side of the solenoid. This should operate the solenoid, which, in turn, should operate the starter motor. Try this 20 times.

If you are getting an erratic light from the ignition switch, then either the connections at the switch are faulty, the switch is faulty, or the wiring at the control box (regulator B terminals) is faulty.

If the solenoid does not work when directly energized, then the ground is faulty (tighten the screws holding it to the firewall) or the unit itself is faulty.
StartingSlow Cold StartingI've recently purchased a nice 67 MGB w/ SU Carbs and standard points distributor.

Runs very nice, except for some difficulty with slow cold starting.

Where should I go first? Ignition, or carbs?

Would a Pertronix electronic modual, and or a new 40K volt coil help?
Almost always the problem with starting is a failure to get the mixture rich enough. Have you associate pull the choke -- the jets should drop down at least 1/4" from the bottom of the carb. But you mention a slow cranking? That is a faulty battery, faulty starter motor, or faulty connections. If the engine draws too much current then the voltage of the spark is compromised. Go for the carbs first.
SteeringConnector Identification, Steering Rack BootsJohn,

I have a 1977 MGB. It was detoxed by some previous owner. In the engine bay, there is a wire connection cluster attached to the alternator harness. I have no idea what it could be for. Any ideas?

Also, I recently replaced my steering rack boots with an after market product. And they still leak oil. A mechanic told me that the boots were only dust covers and that this was a sign of another problem. Sorry. But I can't figure how the boots could be isolated from the rack lubricant. The steering column bushing is good. Any suggestions or just buy a better pair of boots and clamps.

Thanks for your time and help.

Ray

RAY!

The three wire connexion lying on the frame carrying WHITE, WHITE/BLACK, and WHITE/BLUE wires was connected to the original, factory electronic ignition system. There is also a single GREEN wire which connects to the carburettor induction heater -- this is sometimes left loose. In either case, simply tie them up.

There are GOOD boots and not-so-good boots. The GOOD boots are about $50 a set! Their function is to keep dirt from the gears in the rack and pinion and to keep the oil inside. If they are leaking, they are faulty. BUT, when oiling the rack through the shim pack (above the pinion) is a messy operation. It may be that there is simply a lot of oil swilling about the outside of the unit.

Hope this helps at this late date.
SteeringSteering Rack, Interchangable Parts Manual Hi John, need a little advice on purchasing a new or rebuilt steering rack(and steering column,with "sheer" pins) for a 1969 MG Midget. Would prefer new,but understand that they are hard to find. Also,some chat line suggested that a Morris Minor unit would work(would have to be turned around and a right hand drive Morris unit be used for the left hand drive MG). Sounds a bit "iffy" to me.

Do you know of a manual that features interchangeable parts for English makes? I have seen one for Morgans(very complete).

Have owned a few English cars over the years and cannot seem to get away from them. Had 1949 T.C.(California race car),1958 Morris Minor 1,000(new),MG-A,3 MG Midgets(early 1950s TDs), XK-120, TR-3(small mouth). In those days you might have the car,but little money left to enjoy it,but it was fun,nonetheless.

Thanks for your time....John E. Atkinson

John!

There are several options: Repair your existing column; continue to search for a good used or new; or purchase one from me! Repair is not difficult -- it requires complete disassembly, cleaning, regreasing, re-pinning, and reassembly. I have a number of used shafts which I could provide, rebuilt, to you for $200. BUT, those "shear" pins do cause a problem.

First of all, once they're snapped, I do not know how to re-pin them with plastic. Secondly, the inner and outer columns (which are shaped as a Roman "D"), work back and forth, allowing column free play. Our solution is simply to pin them 3/16 with modern, hardened tension pins. These, obviously, will not break loose when your sternum hits the steering wheel at 50 mph! The trade off is that the column is tight.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
SteeringPinion WheelThanks John
Yesterday was quite a day. I thought it was going to be simple,but I
was totally wrong.
I did get the pinion pin out of the carrier. The pin and thegears were
gauld together. The pin came out after I took it to a machine shopwith a
large vise. Now I'm waiting for the pinion gears toarrive.
Why did that happen? Could it been low on gear lub? The roll pin was
also in 3 pieces. I think luck or timing was on my side. Thanks again
John!
The washers were paper thin.
Michael J. Cerny



Michael!

I spoke with someone -- perhaps in Missouri? -- who knew of your
plight, and suggested that the reason the pinion wheel had "welded" itself
to the pinion shaft was because of two different size tires on the rear end
of your car. This would cause the differential and pinion wheels to ALWAYS
be in motion.

Glad everything worked out OK!

SAFETY FAST!
SteeringSteering Rack Oil LeakHi John. I'm amazed that you have any time to answer email. I'll
understand if you don't get around to answering my question. I'm
progressing on the restoration of my MGA MKII. I've filled the steering
rack with oil but now have a leak. I thought it was coming from between
the pinion bearing cap and the rack. So I took off the cap, let the oil
drain out, and applied a thin smear of sealer (Hylomar) to each face of
the cap, shims, and rack. After refilling the rack, I again have a leak
but it appears to be coming from where the pinion shaft enters the rear
side of the rack. Maybe this is where the original leak was because it
drips down to the bottom of the bearing cap and makes it look like there
is a leak there. The leak is very slow -- about a teaspoon or so every
week. I'm wondering if I overfilled the rack and the felt seal around
the pinion shaft in the rear side of the rack is slowly wicking oil out
and causing the leak. What's your opinion?

Regards,
Tom Custer

TOM! Here's the scoop. The rack should be filled with 80/90 hypoid gear
oil. While there is a nipple on the front for filling, it is difficult to
find a gun which shoots hypoid (and not grease). I believe Moss sold them
(maybe they still do). But what we do at the shop is to remove the shim
pack above the pinion and drool in the 80/90 while another turns the
steering wheel from lock to lock, slowly.
A side view of the rack will prove that the rack cannot be
filled above a certain level or the oil will run out -- your problem. This
can be solved in two ways: replace the felt seal with a rubber O ring
(cannot remember the number off the top of my head) or grease the rack at
this point (there is a grease zerk on most MGA racks just where the pinion
enters the rack housing). The grease will provide a seal and slow the leak
of the hypoid.

Hope this helps!
Steering1966 Midget - front wheel bearing play Dear John,

I have a '66 midget. Last year I installed a new front wheel bearing set
that came w/ the car (quinton hazlett?). the passenger side was howling,
the
drivers I did to keep both sides the same. I noticed that the drivers side
had a little play in it after installation (the hub could b
be wiggled very slightly). Could it be that the spindle is too worn? Can
I use the same bearing if I get a rebuilt kingpin? The tire is worn uneven
but it may be so because I did not get an alignment after
Installing new front shocks. I'd like to rectify this because I'd like to
get a new set of tires and I don't want to ruin them.


Thanks,
Joe Dunn

Joe!

You've probably already discovered the source of the freeplay in
your left front wheel, but here are some guesses in case you haven't
thoroughly sorted it out.

If the kingpin is faulty, then you'll pick up freeplay when you
grasp the wheel at 12:00 and 6:00 -- but not when you grasp it at 3:00 and
9:00.

If the tie rod end is faulty, then you'll pick up freeplay at 3:00
and 9:00, but not top and bottom.

If the hub (and rotor) are free from the kingpin -- the brake
backing plate (and caliper) DON'T move when you wiggle the hub, then it's
possible that the inside surface of the hub is worn so it allows the outer
race of the wheel bearing to move against the hub. It is possible that the
bearings are installed incorrectly -- tightening the front hub nut should
pull the inner race against the outer race -- it is possible to assemble the
bearings in such a way that the front hub can drop away from the car.

If you have further questions, my backlog of Q&As is such that I can
offer an immediate response.

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
SteeringPeening upper steering column bearingHello John,

I bookmarked an old post of yours in the MGB list archives that discussed a method of peening the upper steering column bearing to reduce play. Now that I'm ready to do the work, I find that the listquest archives are no longer operating. Could you please describe this process again?

Thank you so much for your time,

Jeff Sharpe

Jeff!

There are two ways to tighten up that top bearing on the MGB's, 1968 through 1976. One is to remove the bearing completely (that's the better way) and the other is to do the work in situ and that's the faster way. Both require that you fold the top of the aluminium housing down around the outer race of the ball bearing.

In the former case, remove the column covers, the switches, the steering wheel -- then carefully remove the U clip from the steering column, the several washers and Belleville washers behind, then remove the screws holding the bearing housing to the outer column and unscrew the bearing assy from the outer housing. Once on the bench, use a SMALL hammer to carefully peen the aluminium housing down onto the outer race of the ball bearing. Then, pack the bearing with grease -- the same grease you'll use throughout the rest of the MGB -- NGLI #2. Then reassemble. The hardest part here is to remove the steering wheel. Notes below.

In the latter case, it's still necessary to remove the column covers, the switches, and the steering wheel -- but peen the bearing while it is supported by the column, and either grease or oil it there, too.

To remove the steering wheel: Tools: 1 1/16 socket (70-76 MGB) and breaker bar, one "double faced hammer," and one heavy (3#) hammer. Two people are required. One sits in the car, removes the steering wheel centre or horn push, unscrews the steering wheel nut until the nut is FLUSH with the end of the steering column. Then, he grasps the wheel at 12:00 with his right hand; he positions his knees at 5:00 and 7:00; and pulls/pushes, try to remove the wheel. With his left hand about 8:00, he holds the double faced hammer against the steering wheel nut and column. Now, the associate, CAREFULLY wielding the three pound hammer, smacks the double faced hammer on the command of the person sitting in the seat. I use the work "AGAIN" if the wheel doesn't pop loose. The person with the 3# hammer must use some force in the swing, but you have to be SO VERY CAREFUL as the driver's face is several inches away from the arc of the swing. This method ALWAYS works.

Hope this helps.

Happy New Year!

John

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
(616) 682 0800
www.universitymotorsltd.com
Subject: Steering column bearing


Steering73 Midget Steering
On my 73' Midget, I have been investigating the cause, of a small amount of play in the steering. At freeway speeds, it's more than enough to be annoying and cause you to constantly be correcting. Tonight I finally identified the exact cause. The play is located at the steering column junction. The point at which the smaller section of the column, slips into the larger section. The point where the column is designed to colapse into itself, if a front end impact occurs, so the driver doesn't get impaled.

Is there any remedy for this, other than just replacing the column? Also, when the column is attached to the rack, how much of the splined pinion from the rack is exposed? It seems like mine might not be down far enough. I assembled the car about 6 years ago, and I vaguely remember having a very hard time getting the column down and attached to the rack.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Chuck
Chuck!

Most older columns have developed that freeplay by now. Or, it might be that your forceful fitting of the column to the steering pinion broke the small nylon pins. On the other hand, those nylon pins fracture when the columns become loose. Me? I'd find those nylon pins -- under the air cleaners, and I'd drill 1/4" holes and use a bolt and nut. Sacrilege? I suppose so. Safe? Well, the column now won't collapse when your sternum strikes it at 60 mph (it is designed to collapse only an inch or so anyway). But it will make driving a PLEASURE.

Before doing that, I'd try to reseat the steering column onto the pinion. The more deeply the pinion fits into the column, the longer that splined connection will last.

Hope this helps! PT was around yesterday asked about a new steering wheel for the MGA.

John

Thanks, Chuck
Steering70B Steering Wheels i have two questions john. i currently own a 1970 mgb and i am looking for
a
smaller steering wheel for it. the current wheel measures approx. 15-16"
in
diam. is there a wheel out there that would fit my car and myself? also,
is
there a new mg car being manufactured this year?
There are a host of wheels available for the MGBs -- your steering wheel
splines are the same as a 1970-1976 MGB. Try MossMotors.com.

MG Rover continues to produce the MG F, but they have no plans to bring it
into this country. Fools.

John

SteeringSteering WheelsOne more time I need the wisdom of the Guru .
Here's the problem, I'm trying to replace the steering wheel on my '69 Midget (that's the year on the registration) with one that's in better condition, has a fat rim, and is slightly smaller in diameter for a little more leg and knee room.
It appears that the steering column shaft isn't the one that the year indicates it should be, although the rest of the controls at that point (turn signal and horn) seem to match what the owner's man. shows.
The wheel installed is the three spoke "piano wire spoke" type with the big shiny MG logo in the middle.
The shaft , at the splines is 5/8 inches OD. This kind of matches the pictures for the '69 version, but the replacement wheels don't seem to have a hub of the correct size for this listed year.
What year MG Midget had this wheel with the 5/8" shaft???? I've tried two already and have gotten a 3/4" and a 9/16" splined hub. Any clues???
Thanks for any lights of vision you can give me on this.
By the way, your rebuilt Magnette wiper motor is still the best MG wiper motor I've ever seen.. speed and power wise.

G.Wayne
Wayne!

The MGBs and the Midgets had one spline from 62 - 67, another from 68-69, another from 70 - 76, and another 77-80. Your only solution is to change the steering column so you can fit that later wheel. It's NOT a huge job -- and you'll get a better key switch (one that doesn't require you to turn the switch all the way OFF before you try to restart.)

Hope this helps.

John

SteeringSteering WheelHow do you get a steering wheel off so you can change the turn signal switch?Scott!

This is a two person project. You'll need a one inch socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) and two hammers. One hammer must be double faced -- preferably two flat surfaces, but you could use a ball peen. The other should be relatively massive -- something like 3lbs.

Remove the center of the steering wheel with a small screwdriver, prying out the plastic insert. Back off the steering column nut until it neither it nor the steering column stands proud of the other.

One person sits in the seat and PULLS on the wheel; the other person smacks the column with the big hammer.

The person inside jams his knees under the wheel, trying to pull the wheel off. He grasps the wheel at 12:00 with his right hand and PULLS! He holds the double faced hammer with his left hand (about 8:00) against the steering column and nut. His buddy, ONLY ON COMMAND, strikes the double faced hammer with the big hammer -- and POP, the wheel WILL come loose. Get the buddy to try a couple of practice swings -- I know you'll keep your jaw WAY out of the way of that hammer!

If this isn't clear, let me know and I'll re-write it.

John

Steering77 'b' steering wheel removalhey john, I'm helping a young guy with his '77 'b' and to replace the broken turn switch (one piece unit) we need to r & r the wheel. I am not going to do it with any gear puller I have! My wife needs my td moved out so her pt cruiser can be garaged for winter, and this guy is chomping at the bit to try out the fiberglass top he got from Canada. Any help would be really appreciated. best wishes for the coming year. Mark
Remove the center MG plastic disc

Back off the steering wheel nut (1") until it is FLUSH with the steering column

One guy sits on the drivers seat. He wedges his knees at 5:00 and 7:00 so that they press on the backside of the wheel. His right hand grasps the steering wheel at 12:00, pulling fiercely. In his left hand he holds a double faced hammer (we use a brass hammer). A ball peen hammer would work, a claw hammer should be left for carpentry. He holds this hammer against the nut/column.

The second guy stands to the left of the driver, holding a LARGER hammer -- three pounds, maybe. On the command of the driver -- ONLY on command of the driver, the second guy swings and strikes the first hammer. Several slow practice swings will give both guys a guess as to the movement -- so that no one's cheek or fingers are smashed.

The goal here is to pull on the wheel very strongly -- and to shock the column with a swift, hard smack.

If it doesn't come loose at once, strike it harder!

ONLY ONLY ONLY on command of the driver!

This will work.

The alignment mark on the turn signal switch should be at 9:00, not 3:00. DO NOT retighten the wheel until you've driven the car to ensure the wheel is as straight as possible.


John
.
SteeringFront Spindle- Spacers and ShimsDear University Motors,

After reading how to replace the front wheel bearings on an MGB without reusing the spacer or the shims because this type of bearing does not usually need a spacer in this application, I thought this made alot of sense so I have left them out of my rebuild. Now I've read some theories on why this might not be a good idea after all. So what is the latest info on this modification that you might have knowledge of. Thanks for all the information you have given me in the past.

Lonnie

Lonnie!

That spacer and shims are critical. Here's why.

Imagine that you have a length of threaded rod. You put that rod against your knee and with some effort you can bend that rod.

Image that you have a length of electrical conduit. You put that conduit against your knee and with some effort you can bend that conduit.

Now, run that threaded rod down the middle of the conduit, tighten it to 60 lb-in, put it against your knee and try to bend it. NO WAY!

This is my illustration about the MGB front spindle. The threaded rod is the stub axle, held on one end by the casting, held on the other by the castellated nut. The conduit is made of several pieces: the tapered washer against which the inner bearing rides and the outer seal rides; the inner race of the inner wheel bearing, the spacer, the shims, the inner race of the outer wheel bearing, and the outer washer.

Now it is true that in my thirty one wrenching years of MG mechanics I have seen only one MGB stub axle break -- verifying that, perhaps, the stub axle is "overbuilt" -- but the fact remains that mechanical engineers far more experienced (and in my case, certainly better paid) designed this system with strength and safety in mind.

We ALWAYS reshim the front end!

Hope this helps!

John
SteeringCamberHaving a problem with a 1979 MGB with positive camber (wheels lean out at the top). Vehicle was never wrecked.

It tracks straight when driven but am concerned with tire wear. Have replaced all bushings without pre-loading them. (Bounced several times before torquing the suspension) . Used V8 bushings. Noticed that when front end is raised about 1 inch or so the tires tend to straighten out, so I replaced both front springs. Any suggestions on where to go from here or on what I missed? Thanks.

The camber is "fixed" and there is little one can do to change it, save change the length of the A Arms. The higher the car sits, the more the positive camber; the lower the car sits, the more the negative camber -- hence the folly of "lowering" the car using shorter springs.

There should be a minimal amount of positive camber, but an interesting exercise would be to measure the cars in my parking lot (probably a dozen MGBs) with a carpenter's square to see how much the camber really is.


John
SteeringJohn,


The steering column on my 74 (chrome bumper) MGB moves both up and down and in and out about a quarter of an inch. Is this related to the upper column bearing? How do I fix it? Your help would be much appreciated.

Robert
Robert,


You have a problem with the top bearing of the steering column. Once the steering wheel has been removed (see my YouTube video on same under "universitymotorsltd") and the switches removed, then slide the horseshoe clip off the column and remove the shims and Belleville washers. Remove the bearing from the top of the column (three screws). Squeeze the column together a little bit so that the bearing fits tightly when reinstalled. Then, tap the aluminium housing around the bearing to tighten the housing to the outer race of the bearing. Then grease the bearing. Now reinstall. You may have to put the nut back on the steering column and PULL it towards you as you fit the washers and horseshoe clip.

If you have some problems, give me a call!

John
SteeringMGB Steering Wheel ShakeJohn--


The steering column on my 74 (chrome bumper) MGB moves both up and down and in and out about a quarter of an inch. Is this related to the upper column bearing? How do I fix it? Your help would be much appreciated.



Robert

Robert,


You have a problem with the top bearing of the steering column. Once the steering wheel has been removed (see my YouTube video on same under "universitymotorsltd") and the switches removed, then slide the horseshoe clip off the column and remove the shims and Belleville washers. Remove the bearing from the top of the column (three screws). Squeeze the column together a little bit so that the bearing fits tightly when reinstalled. Then, tap the aluminium housing around the bearing to tighten the housing to the outer race of the bearing. Then grease the bearing. Now reinstall. You may have to put the nut back on the steering column and PULL it towards you as you fit the washers and horseshoe clip.

If you have some problems, give me a call!


John
SteeringTD Rack and PinionI recently purchased a Rack & Pinion replacement for my 1953 TD on e-bay. The unit was represented as a TD unit. When it arrived I noticed that the steering shaft has a universal joint type attachment. All the other items such as bolt location appear to be identical externally. Can I modify this shaft to bolt-up to my TD and will the Rack & Pinion work.? I think the e-bay Rack & Pinion is from a MGB? The pinion of the rack and pinion assembly is hardened -- and it is splined for the cloverleaf, so there is no practical way to make yours fit a TD. You're right, it's probably an MGB unit (if the housed parts of the tube are aluminium) or and MGA if the entire rack housing is cast iron. There are firms (as mine) that can repair your rack and pinion.
SteeringTC Drag Link and Tie Rod Thread SizeDo you know what the thread size is on the TC drag link and
tie rod? I have looked through all of my printed matter and cannot find
this info. I just installed an aftermarket TRW Volkswagen (I know,I
know) steering box from Peter Edny, and with the VW drop arm the
original drag link is too long by approx. 1.5" so I need to cut it down
and add threads. The fit on a 5/8"-18 nut or a M16 is close but not
correct. I have a catalog for a company called" Metric & Multistandard
Components Corp." and they show 5/8"BSF as well as 5/8"BSW. They also
sell the dies, I just don't know which one I need. I don't know how to
arrive at the 55 degree flank angle measurement that tells me that it
is Whitworth or not.
The thread is certainly Whitworth form, not metric. In my "Machiner's Screw Thread Book, Sixteenth Edition, which must date from the mid-'50's, I find the 5/8-14 thread listed as a BSF (British Standard Fine). This has a major diameter of 0.6250 and has 14 threads per inch. The BSW thread for 5/8 is much coarser at 11 tpi, and BSC (British Standard Cycle) is much finer at 26 tpi. I'm sure you'll be set with the BSF die. We use Metric and Multistandard for our BA screw supply.
SteeringSteering Column Movement The steering column on my 74 (chrome bumper) MGB moves both up and down
and in and out about a quarter of an inch. The up and down movement is
exactly as in a video I found on the web:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2d3tXp-IQQ

Is this related to the upper column bearing? How do I fix it?
You have a problem with the top bearing of the steering column.
Once the steering wheel has been removed (see my YouTube video on same under
"universitymotorsltd") and the switches removed, then slide the horseshoe
clip off the column and remove the shims and Belleville washers. Remove the
bearing from the top of the column (three screws). Squeeze the column
together a little bit so that the bearing fits tightly when reinstalled.
Then, tap the aluminium housing around the bearing to tighten the housing to
the outer race of the bearing. Then grease the bearing. Now reinstall.
You may have to put the nut back on the steering column and PULL it towards
you as you fit the washers and horseshoe clip.
SteeringMGB LE Lug Nuts & Rack and Pinion OilI have a 1980 MGB. I need to replace the lug nuts on the wheels. I used a 15/16 socket to remove them is that the right size to order new ones? Also, I need to top off my steering wheel column and I can't find SAE 90 oil anywhere . Can I use W80/90 ? Thanks for any help! You must have a black MGB LE as the common nut size is 1/2 fine with a socket size of 13/16. You can get new lug nuts for the LE wheels from Mossmotors.com. Use a multigrade oil 80/90 hypoid (rear axle oil) for the rack and pinion. Hope this helps!
SteeringMGB Rack and PinionI am assembling an RV8 for USA SCCA club racing in a new GT 2 class - almost unlimited modifications are allowed.

Need your advice and your services on a rack and pinion unit most suitable for an MG B / RV8 chassis that will be used for high speed club road racing.

For initial assembly of the chassis and for mock-up of the steering, front suspension and engine bay - I am using a new replacement unit (made in Argentina) for the l974 thru l980 MGB. It fits and is represented by supplier British Victoria in Kansas City as an exact copy of the original unit. It is a cheap copy of the original unit and I fear that the steering ratio is not the most advantageous for road racing.

Can you supply an original and completely rebuilt unit with a steering ratio most suitable for road racing ?

I can supply the late model "original" rack and pinion only -- and that you may already have. Contact Brown and Gammons in Baldock, Herts, England to see if there is a quicker / faster rack. If they have just the gears, we can install them into the rack housing.
SuspensionLeaf SpringsSaw your piece on utube about checking the straightness of leaf springs when u buy them using a straight edge and at square. I have to replace my leaf springs as I cracked the right one. Am looking at buying a set from Victoria British for about 120.00. Do you know of any issues with this product from Victoria British My understanding is that all the suppliers get the springs from the same source. And, according to one of the suppliers, the springs have come from British Spring with an offset for years -- even during production -- so this is not a new problem. I first encountered it in about 1985 on a 1977 MGB. The only way to ensure that the springs are straight is to use the straight edge and square method I showed on the YouTube video. Let me know what you find out! John
SuspensionCross Member Mountingi John, I hope your back is feeling better after the rest. Thanks for chatting with me the other day. I hope I didn’t catch you at a bad time but Mike said you were receiving calls. Just to let you know my son and I got the overdrive box installed that you helped me rebuild last spring at your workshop. As you may recall from my phone call, we couldn’t get the bolts to line up on the ends of the cross member (that go into the frame) with the rubber mount bolts (to the cross member) in the rear position holes . We took it off the gear box and repositioned the mount bolts in the front holes and everything then lined up . The yoke and bottom piece positioned as shown in your video as per your instructions. It was a lot more difficult to install the rear bolts for the rubber mounts that go into the gear box but it worked! Fortunately my son has thin fingers! We had to bend a half inch spanner to reach the bolts. So I guess it’s not always rear hole for overdrive boxes and front holes for non overdrive. Thought you would be interested to know. It’s going to be a little while to get everything back together in the engine bay but the difficult stuff is done! All the best to you and the guys for the New Year and get well soon. Best Regards, ......Gareth (your friend in Peterborough Canada)Gareth, Thanks very much for the follow up. This still begs the question of why there are SO MANY possibilities in the position of the cross member and all the associated brackets. I have never worked on an automatic MGB (in this country) so I don’t know whether some of the possibilities include that installation. I’ll be up in the Toronto area with the Toronto MGCC for a tech seminar in April – watch their website. John
SuspensionRemoving Rear AxleHI John

I am trying to remove the rear hub and pull the axle to repair the "clunk" in the rear end but the hub and axle will not move, I tried a small puller, not made for the job no luck. Would you please recommend a universal puller and where I can find one? any and all suggestion or help will be greatly appreciated. I need to get this car on the road, summer is to short.

David McNeill- 73MGBGT wirewheels.

PS thanks for the rebuild on the distributor, works great.

DAVID!

To remove the rear axle you must reverse the cone washer and refit the 1 5/16 axle nut. Then use a SLIDE HAMMER with a five pound weight, secured to the axle with "fingers" (as most pullers have). Our slide hammer at the shop has the five pound weight, and has three fingers. With about three good slams of the weight the axle and its bearing slide out of the rear axle tube. I believe there are equipment rental places all around which will rent this tool.

Thanks for the note about the distributor!
SuspensionVibrationJohn,

Thanks for the opportunity to call you and to e-mail you with questions and comments. I have a 1960 MGA that I cannot seem to isolate a vibration with. I have owned this car for about 11 years and have always had a rough ride in 4th gear. The car is stock except for a 3.9:1 MGB pumpkin ball which I installed a couple of years ago. I've had the "U" joints replaced and the drive shaft balanced. It has been installed per the manual. Last year I bought a new set of mini-lite wheels and had new Michelin tires mounted and spin (computer) balanced. Each step along the way, I've seen what I felt was modest improvement in the vibration situation. Last winter, I rebuilt the front end as well. All new bushings etc.

The current symptoms are as follows. The car shifts through third gear without any noticable problems. When I shift into 4th gear I occasionally notice a very rough vibration that I can't seem to "drive through". I have also noticed that on some occasions when I shift into 4th, I don't get any noticable vibrations. Two weeks ago, I started experimenting and if the car vibrated after shifting into 4th, I would shift into neutral and then back into 4th and often times, the vibration would cease or at least decrease quite a lot.

Is there a possibility that 4th gear is somehow out of alingment in some instances or is this just a one of a kind MGA?

I would be interested in your take on this.

Thanks, Tom Ford

TOM!

I know that we discussed this on the phone, and I really don't have any more ideas now than I did when we spoke, but just for the review:

There are five things turning when you're driving: four wheels and a driveshaft. The wheels could be bent, the computer balancing could still be in error (balanced when spinning in the air, but shaking on the road because the wheel is bent or the tire is not round). Experiment by moving the tires front to rear, or side to side.

Once balanced, I cannot imagine how the driveshaft could wobble -- unless it's extended near the length of the slip joint. When you view the slip joint, rear axle "hanging" on the check straps, there should be about one inch of nose exposed -- more than that and the drive shaft is too short.

Another test is to try to duplicate the same vibration while sitting still -- using the same rpm as the 4th gear problem. If you pick up any vibration at rest while the engine is doing several thousand rpm, the problem is usually the exhaust -- hitting the frame or loose.

I am eager to know what you find. Please get back in touch!
SuspensionShim ThicknessI have a 1968 MGB with synchro transmission. I am in the final stages of assembling the transmission, and have some questions:

I am trying to calculate the shim thickness between the front cover and input shaft bearing, and the wording and method used in the factory manual is confusing me. Maybe because I don't speak the King's English all that good. I'm at work now and don't have the exact specs in front of me, but In simple terms, am I trying to create a gap between the bearing and front cover, or am I trying to put on a slight preload with the front cover, thereby bending the cover inwards with the studs?

If you read it yourself, you can see it's written to indicate preload. First you measure front cover cavity depth, then add in for the compressed gasket. Then measure bearing height. Then they tell you they want you to add shims until the bearing height is more than the front cover cavity depth! Do you agree? Wouldn't that crack the front cover? Shouldn't there be a gap instead?

John!

I usually simply replace the shims I removed - with this extra step. I use a prick punch and a hammer, and put about 100 little tiny prick punch marks in the front cover on the annulus that meets the bearing. This raises the metal. Then, hold the shims in place with grease, and fit the cover to the front. I use the thinnest film of silicone possible on the front gasket, to prevent any buildup which could block an oil gallery. I've read that section, too, and you DO want a preload -- but only a couple of thousandths.
SuspensionFront ShocksHello!

have you got front shocks for an MG TD?
How much?

Thanks
Jaime Kopstein

JAIME!

Might I suggest that you have your shocks rebuilt? Alternatively, you might consider fitting MGB shocks (which requires a change in the top trunnion). There are two firms who will rebuild your T type shocks -- Apple and Worldwide. Alternatively, you can either change the dimensions of the top trunnion -- or order them from Brown And Gammons, an MG supplier in Baldock, Herts, England.

If you are searching for T type shocks because yours are MISSING, then you can contact Abingdon Spares in Walpole NH; Skip Kelsey, trading as Shadetree Motors; or Mick Conde, trading as Keystone Classic Cars in Jeannette, PA.

Hope this helps!
SuspensionRear Axle SwappingJohn:

Wonder if you can help me.

I have a 1974 (chrome bumper) MGB GT with rostyle rims. I also have a set of minilite replica rims that I would like to install. The problem is however, that on the rear axle, there isn't enough clearance between the tire and the body edge of the wheel well.

From the back of the rostyle rim (surface that bolts onto the brake drum) to the outside surface of the tire is 2.25". this leaves a clearance of 1.5" to the wheel well.

From the back of the minilite to the outside surface of the tire is 3.75" with no clearance. ( By adding up the tolerances of the rostyle rim, you can see that mathematically there is no clearance (2.25 + 1.5 = 3.75).

My thought was to get a wire rim tube type rear axle and change the hub from wire to bolt pattern.

My questions are:

1. how much clearance will I get on each side by changing from a bolt patten rear axle to a wire rim type axle?

2. is it possible to make the change, and if so, how much work is involved?

Thanks John...hope you can help.

Tim Coyne

TIM!

The difference between an MGB ROstyle rear axle and an MGB Wire Wheel rear axle is 1 1/2 inches, side to side, overall. Swapping rear axles would only achieve a 3/4 inch inboard movement on each side -- perhaps not enough for you.

Swapping is as easy as you can imagine! You only have to swap the ENTIRE rear axle, from car to car. Then you only need change the rear hubs from ww to disc (it's not even as messy as changing an MGA!).

Hope this helps!
SuspensionRear End ClunkHi,
I enjoyed your article on the MG Salisbury Rear End Clunk...It sounds suspiciously like my dilemma. I own a Monteverdi and a recently acquired Iso, both of which share the same Salisbury independent differential.
My diff's are making the exact same noises you have described. Do you think it's possible that those same pinion and ring washers might fit my Salisbury differential ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rory Rinebold
Los Angeles

Rory! You know, in the world of MGs the rule is: If the part can possibly be the same, it's not. This refers to a lense, for instance, that looks for all the world like another, but is NOT interchangeable. I just cannot begin to say if those parts are the same -- but if they ARE, please let me know -- because all these diffs now need thicker washers than were originally fitted (to take up for wear), and some other manufacturers offer thicker shims in certain places. Hope this is of some assistance!
SuspensionBody RollJohn,
First of all, let me say how much I appreciate the effort which you put into your web site. It is very informative for people like me who are constantly learning about our cars. Now my question...
I am disappointed in the amount of body roll present on my 1971 MGB. I encounter a "lot" of roll in moderate cornering or when negotiating moderate curves. I'm not talking about severe driving. Having no experience with a B whose suspension is "right", I am not sure what to expect, but I did expect better than this when I rebuilt the car. Since the suspension is a 40 year old design, do they just normally roll? I have completely rebuilt or replaced the suspension to stock, new stock front & rear springs, rebuilt shocks (Apple Hydraulics), rebuilt swivel axles, new bushings, etc. I am running 185/70 Dunlop touring
tires. I did not replace the anti-roll bar. This may be stupid, but do they wear out and could this be causing my problem? If I need to replace, would I benefit from a slightly larger bar and performance bushings? Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Hank Stallings

HANK!

It is unusual for an MG driver to complain about body roll in a 1971 MGB - maybe it's the nature of the beast. However, you can stiffen the shocks (remove them, remove the covers and valves, refill with stiffer oil(rmember it's an hydraulic oil with a seal sweller and an anti-foaming
agent). We have some 50 weight which we use here. You could upgrade to the MGB/GT anti sway bar which is stiffer. You could add a rear bar, but those are difficult to install carefully and avoid rubbing and pre-mature
failure of bushings, etc -- I've yet to see an aftermarket one that really works well. The stiffer fluid will slow down the roll; the thicker bar will flatten the roll. Hope this helps.
SuspensionSwivel Assemblies & Kingpins As an active member of the MG Car Club of St. Louis, active MGB driver and soon to be MGC driver ('69 MGCGT w/ Downton Triple SU Conv.) I have a technical question. Are the swivel assemblies and kingpins the same on the C as on a B. I need to know because I only have access to a reamer
for a B and would like to install new bushings and kingpins (I have both) on my C at an upcoming technical session of our club. I look forward to attending my first UM Summer Party and CBA in Grand Rapids this summer, hopefully in
my MGC or if not my old reliable '74 MGB Roadster. Thank you.

MARK! You know the rule: If a part or assembly can possibly be the same between models, it's not. So is the case of the MGB/MGC Kingpins. They are very nearly the same -- but are distinctly different sizes. The MGC
bushings (and reamer) is larger in diameter. We do have that reamer in our shop and would charge you one hour ($50) for reaming the bushings. Plan to be here with the MGC for the "Sea of C's" next August
SuspensionKing PinsI need to replace the king pins on my 1973 MGB. I am interested in your
king pin kit.

Please advise what is included and how the bushings are reamed.

I have heard there are kits which have the stub axle along with the king
pin.

Please advise, in detail, the parts and services you offer for king pin
repairs, complete with prices.

Thanks

RICHARD!
The University Motors kingpin kit includes ALL the parts included in the
front suspension rebuild kits that are offered by Moss, for instance: The
top trunnion/shock bushings, the bottom distance tubes, washers, cups,
seals, new A Arm bushings (although I WOULD NOT use these -- we like the V8
bushings). We supply you with a set of rebuilt kingpings, re-bushed,
reamed, end float set correctly, and ready to fit. After you fit ours, you
send yours back to us for a core charge. We will rebuild yours, if you
wish -- but it's much easier to get ours first. You know, the front
suspension is a rusty, stiff, nasty, difficult job to do -- and there's no
point disassembling something extra -- the reason I give for getting ours
first. Our price is $300 with a $100 core charge. You may order them via
the Email (no encryption on this site), by fax, by phone, or by letter. We
accept Master/Visa/Discover, checks, and cash (on the front counter). Hope
this helps.
SuspensionBearing SpacerJohn,
Do you stock part no. BTB 853 (bearing spacer)? If you do, what is the
price?
Thanks, Gene

GENE!

I assume we're discussing the spacer between the pinion taper bearings.
You have two options: 1) straighten out your old spacer -- slip a piece
of pipe inside the spacer and rap the OD with your hammer to flatten the
bulged center. 2) Ignore this spacer. Remember that when you are setting
up the diff the pinion MUST have about 12 lb-ft pre-load. Use a pre-load
gauge to measure this, with the crown wheel assy out of the diff housing.
Once set, I cannot imagine why this spacer is necessary. Your thoughts?
SuspensionShocks, Electronic IgnitionHello.
I am relatively new to the MG hobby. Your name is one that frequently is
brought up as a knowledgeable source of information and recommendations
based on your vast experience.

My question is this... I am restoring a 1967 MGB Roadster and the rear
lever shocks are leaking. What I would like to do is add one of the
conversion kits to switch to Tube style rear shocks. Is this a good idea?
Am
I sacrificing anything by doing so?

Another question. I have seen other MGB drivers at shows etc. that have
converted from a points type ignition to an electronic style.
Specifically
the Crane Fireball set-up. I am not a big fan of adjusting points but,
again
I want to do what's right and not just take the easy way out. Besides, if
either the shocks or ignition will improve my B, then I am all for it!

Thank you for your time and expertise!

Sincerely,
Patrick Willoughby

Patrick!

Leave those Armstrong lever shocks in place! If you have refilled them,
and they leak down a bit, that's OK. It's very unusual for them to quite
working -- but if they become noisey or clunky, then a rebuilt unit is only
$75-100 each.
Leave those points in place. Remove the distributor for servicing in all
cases. The new points are only, what? $6?. Gap them at 0.015" which is a
60 degree dwell, and set your timing at 20 BTDC at idle. Those electronic
ignitions are pointless. With the old style unit you can ALWAYS get back
on the road -- use a stick, tire iron, penny, screwdriver to adjust or bend
the points to work. If an electronic unit fails, find a hotel room until
Moss can overnight another one to you!
SuspensionClunkJohn:
My 65 MGB has a clunk that sounds like the differential needs thrust washers. Is the procedure the same as would be used in the later style of differential?
THanks,
Steve Dooley

STEVE! It is very rare, indeed, that the washers behind the differential and pinion wheels in the banjo diff fail. They are made of copper (the Salisbury diffs diff wheels are plastic). More probably there is another problem. Tell me more: you have disc wheels or wire wheels?
SuspensionShocking! Hi John!

I haven't seen this topic addressed anywhere - Can the OEM MGB lever
shocks be rebuilt my the "home-mechanic"? If so, are rebuild kits
available through any of the common mail-order parts suppliers?

My '75 was feeling a bit unsteady on its "feet" and I found the shock
fluid levels were quite a bit low. I topped it off on all four corners
with Harley Davidson Fork Oil and all seemed well. About a week later,
I noticed left front and left rear were leaking (the left rear was
leaking right on the tailpipe!). Is it possible that the
"seal-swelling" properties of the fork oil will correct this over time
or am I in for another major expenditure?

Thanx

Lindsey

LINDSAY!

I would tell you that the shock is beyond the ability of the MG
mechanic, let alone the home mechanic. We purchase all of ours from a
wholesale rebuilder in California with this exception: if the shock is NOT
apparently leaking and if the shock arm is NOT loose in the body, then you
can remove the valve and the cover, drain and clean, and refill with fresh
hydraulic oil with a seal sweller and an anti-foaming agent. Actually, we
have oil made up for us by a firm in Ohio who uses 50 weight oil, so our
"reconditioned" shocks are VERY STIFF.
Expect to pay about $100 each for good quality, rebuilt shocks. We
offer them, too.

SAFETY FAST!
SuspensionRemoving wishbone bushing Dear Mr. Twist,
I am in the process of replacing the wishbone bushing and the
fulcrum
bushing along with grease seals,dust seals,and supports. I also plan to
replace the coil springs.
I've loosened most of the nuts up so that I know they will come
off.
The first thing that I am ttrying to take off is the anti-roll bar
link. I am trying to take it off from the bottom. I have loosened the nut
to
the top of the threaded portion and have been beating it with a 2x4, but
it
won't come free from the combination spring pan/front wishbone arm. It
does
seem like it will come free from the spring pan but not the wishbone arm.
Once I get this out I plan on supporting the spring pan with my
floor
jack then removing the outer spring pan bolts. Then I would lower the
spring
pan to take the tension off the coil spring. Then replace all parts. Then
reverse the proceedure.
Is this the correct way to do this?
Thanks,
dave

DAVE!

You will never succeed in removing the upright anti sway bar link
with a 2x4! I would suggest that you remove the link from the sway bar at
the top. Remove the A Arm with the link attached -- then use a hammer and
your vise. A quick HARD swing will release the link from the A Arm!

To remove the spring and spring pan, at home, remove all the nuts
from the pan, the fulcrum pin, and the bottom of the kingpin. Resupport the
weight of the car on a jackstand under the frame. Use your jack to compress
the pan until it just starts to lift the MGB off the jack stand. Then drive
all the bolts out of their positions. The spring and pan, at some point
will spring loose (don't worry -- it won't sail across the room!) but it
will let go with a LOT of force.

Reinstallation requires WEIGHT (several heavy friends?) Fit the A
Arms to the fulcrum pin, fit the spring pan to the A Arms, just starting the
nuts (remember the nuts are on the OUTSIDE). Fit the spring up onto it's
circular positioner, fit the bottom of the spring into the pan, as best you
can, and jack up on the A Arm (SLOWLY and CAREFULLY). You must select the
most outward point of the pan or you'll lift the car off the stand before
you can slide that bottom kingpin bolt into place. This is where the heavy
friends come into play. Have them lean on the fender!

Do not tighten the castellated nuts on the fulcrum pin until the
full weight of the car has compressed the spring to it's "natural" state.

Hope this helps!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
bottom left interface
SuspensionQuestionsWe have a 73 midget Mk III, in great shape, fully restored but have 2 problems I cannot seem to resolve.
Maybe you can give us a starting point.

1, Clunk from car intermitently when we stop quickly or go from neutral to 1st. I removed the wheels, checked splines cleaned and re-greased & tightened. This reduced the occurence, but not completely.

2, Car squeaks when driving. Only occurs when moving, high pitched and seems to be in sync with the motions of the body... not rpms of engine.

Thanks!

Bart & Audrey in Loxahatchee, Florida

Audrey and Bart!

The clunk in the driveline could be several things: loose drive shaft, faulty U joints, faulty wheel splines, or faulty "spider" gears in the differential. Try this: get the car up in the air and have your associate stand on the brakes. Try to rotate the rear wheels -- obviously they should not move, but they will -- the question is how much! Grasp the drive shaft and try to turn it -- use a flashlight (even in Florida in the daytime) to look at the front and rear U joints and the rear flange.
You'll find your problem at the wheels or U joints!

The squeak is often exhaust. Try this: sitting in the driveway, bring the engine rpm up to 4500 and then back down, slowly. Listen for that squeak. If you hear it, then it's exhaust or something in the engine bay metal (you know, all those pieces that overlap at the radiator). Again, have your associate hold the engine at the rpm where the noise is greatest and you -- grasp everything until he hollers to let you know the squeak is gone. I'd use a BIG glove before I would grasp the exhaust. You probably don't have gloves in Florida -- so you'll have to use your wife's cooking glove!

All the best!

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
SuspensionMGB roll(sway) bars Am I right in thinking that my 1974+half MGB roadster (built Nov 74) was
built without a front anti-roll bar? The holes + captive nuts in the
front framing that the roll bar mounts should fasten in to are there,
but the front wishbone plates are both plain (ie do not have the
re-inforcing plate that the vertical bracket to the bar should bolt in),
and the car obviously has no roll bar, and shows no signs of ever having
had one.
This point has annoyed me for some time - I keep thinking of fitting a
roll bar, but I'm not sure its worth the trouble as
(a) presumably I would have to renew the front wishbones as well to
provide the proper place to bolt the ends to, and
(b) if the car was built without a roll bar and survived so far, maybe I
don't need it anyway

Thanks for your help

Bert Holland

BERT!

The singular, best improvement you can make to your MGB is to add
that front anti sway bar!! Deleted in a cost saving move, the error was
quickly recognized and ALL the 1977-1980 were fitted not only with the FRONT
anti sway bar but a REAR anti sway bar. It is NOT necessary to fit a rear
bar to your car. BUT, believe me, fitting the front bar will be the BEST
thing you've ever done for the handling. This goes, too, for all MGAs, few
of which were delivered with anti sway bars. The other item dropped from
some of the 74/2 and all the later MGBs was the oil cooler. Fitted or not,
this makes little difference in the cooling or in the longevity of the
engine.

Spend the money and do it right. You will not need spring pans.
But, DO buy the "new and improved" V8 bushings.

SAFETY FAST!
John Twist, Service Manager
Suspension1979 MGB - replacing lower A-arm bushings I am in the process of replacing the lower A-arm bushings on my 1979 MGB.
The passenger side lower king pin bolt is seized in the king pin housing.
Is there any reason not to use heat on the housing to help free this bolt
i.e. will heating the kingpin damage any internal parts? Thanks,

Dave Leinart

DAVE!

You've already completed your task, I'm certain, but here are some
thoughts. We nearly ALWAYS use heat on a frozen distance tube. It's then
necessary to hone out the bottom bushing (0.750") and fit a new distance
tube. The new distance tubes are not hardened as the originals, so it's
possible to drill through them easily. Do so with a 1/8" bit, right in the
centre, so that some of the grease you pump in gets down between the
distance tube and the bottom bolt. Assemble the pieces with LOTS of NLGI#2
grease.

Let me know how you came out.

Oh, I forgot -- after it's hot, THEN we bang on the bolt and bushing
with a very large hammer!

John
Suspension1951 MGTD - shock fluidJohn:
I have a '51 TD. One of the front shocks is low on fluid. What is the correct fluid to put in them? Hydraulic jack oil? Dot 5, silicone based brake fluid? 10W motor oil?

Thank-you.


Mark A. Johnson

Mark!

You have already found an answer, I'm certain, but this is what we use: hydraulic oil (about 50 weight) with a seal sweller and an anti-foaming agent. You can purchase shock oil from Moss, for instance, but their weight is much lighter than what we use.

In any case, you don't use engine oil.

Is this any assistance? Let me know how you solved your need!

SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
(616) 682 0800
www.universitymotorsltd.com
Suspension1976 MGB Moss Anti Sway Bar Hope you can help. 76 B GHN5UG407338G. I Installed new front end nylon
bushing kit (MGOC). I decided to install an anti sway bar (moss). Well the
holes + captive nuts in the front framing that the roll bar mounts too
don't
line up with the sway bar bushing supports. If I force the supports to
line
up the end links are pushed back toward the shock arms. There are various
captive nuts in each front side member, the ones I need are not threaded
(one on each side). If I use the ones that are threaded it doesn't fit.
Seems like the sway bar is too big. Moss # 454-965. (including
installation
kit with proper wishbone plates) Any suggestions
Thanks

Ray Huckleberry

Ray!

The problem you have encountered is due to the incorrect length of
the arms of the sway bar. The arms should be shorter by about 2." When I
complained to Harry Haigh of Moss Motors about these "inferior" parts, he
already knew of it. And where were they made? India? Taiwan? Nope --
they are "factory" parts from Heritage in England. Lots of egg on lots of
faces. Call your supplier and ask for the correct sway bar!

John
SuspensionLowering MGB
Do you know of anyone of makes spindles to lower the front of my 1979 MGB?

Thanks, and please advise,

Bruce
Bruce!

Lowering the MGB changes the front end geometry so greatly that I would not suggest it. If you have a rubber bumper MGB, you can work with the handling by increasing the size of the anti-sway bars and stiffening the shocks.

Let me know, again, what year and model you have and I'll try to give you some more suggestions. My standard line is: If you want a lowered MGB, purchase a chrome bumpered car!

John
Suspension1980 MGB VibrationJohn...

Tony Lane and Tom Piacenza attended your transmission tech class last week and may have mentioned my dilemma to you. I am running a 1980 MGB that has been one of the tightest, smoothest MGs that I have had the pleasure to own. I know you are not keen on the Weber downdraft carb, but I am running that conversion with the early pre-Zenith exhaust manifold.

My problem is a strange vibration that begins around 2300 RPM and peaks at 3500. It is most noticeable at cruise and is on the verge of violent when backing off the power at those revs in high gear. It reminds me of a back pressure vibration that resonates front to aft throughout the car but mainly in the exhaust. It can get really boomey when getting off the power from speeds above 55 MPH. The vibration disappears when the clutch is disengaged which narrows it to engine/driveline.

Last Fall, Tom Piacenza and I pulled the engine and gearbox to replace sloppy motor mounts and related broken brackets. We did use Moss's heavy duty motor mounts. No big deal. We have done this procedure a dozen times. We also replaced the clutch assy with Borg & Beck pieces, gearbox input and output seals, rear main seal, timing cover seal, and pinion seal. The only odd thing that we encountered was a crack in the down pipe flange that snugs up to the manifold. Tom welded this ring for additional support and I was a little concerned about clearance with the donut gaskets in place. Also, the downpipe is a tight fit as I don't believe the new studs on the manifold are exactly in alignment. At any rate, we carefully reassembled everything and encountered the weird vibration.

On advise from your tech notes, we focused on the Ansa exhaust and decided to replace it with a new stock system from Moss. I also pulled the driveshaft and had a local driveline specialist install new U joints and balance the shaft. The problem still exists to my frustration and amazement. Do you have any ideas or can you suggest a likely culprit?

Safety Fast!

Tom
Tom!

First test: Sit in the driveway and rev the engine up to the rpm where the problem occurs. If there is a vibration, then the problem lies in the exhaust.

If the problem ONLY exists on the road (which I suspect), then let me suggest that the exhaust sits SO close to the steering column that on slight deceleration (the problem is exacerbated by dramatic deceleration), the exhaust fouls the steering column or pinion.

Look at both these areas very critically, and then give me a heads up!

John

SuspensionLeaf Spring Pivot BoltJohn,

I am replacing the rear leaf springs on my "67 B-GT. All bolts/nuts and shackles are disconnected and the rear of spring is on the ground. However, I cannot get the front pivot bolt out of the rubber bushing. I have tried to drift it out but won't move. I have tried to turn the bolt with a socket, can see the rubber twisting, and feel torque loading up. When I release the wrench, the bolt returns to it original position.

Any solution? More muscle/cheater bar to break the adhesion between the bolt and rubber? Soak the assembly with WD-40?

Thanks

Rick
Richard!

Cut, grind, or burn the head off the bolt. Bend the flange away from the leaf spring. Now bend the leaf spring so that the second flange bends away from the first and slip the leaf spring, still with most of the bolt frozen in the silentblock bushing, out of the flange. Easy! Just bend the flanges back into place when fitting the new spring. A word of caution. Many new springs are made incorrectly and fail within a short time. Make certain your spring supplier will guarantee his springs to you for a reasonable time (like a year!).



John
SuspensionLowering SuspensionHi John,

I was wondering if you could tell me if it would be a problem to lower my
1980 MGB by one inch with one of the front and rear suspension options
being sold by Moss Motors or Victoria British?

I used to own a 71 MGB and I like the way it handled being closer to the
ground than the 80 I have right now.

Thanks in advance!

Eric
Eric!

This is an often asked question! The pitch and roll you suffer in
the driver's seat is a function of the center of gravity, the condition of
the shocks, and the size of the anti-sway bars.

In 1974 1/2, the factory dropped the position of the engine more
deeply into the frame at the same time they raised the height of the body.
I believe (but do not know for certain), that the center of gravity is still
higher than it was.

The shocks control the rapidity of the collapse or extension of the
suspention (compression and rebound, the factory calls it). So, the
condition of the shocks is CRITICAL to the handling. You can test your
shocks by bouncing the fenders (they shouldn't bounce) or by stopping
QUICKLY and watching how much the fenders bob up and down (one to one and a
half oscillations). You can purchase rebuilt shocks from a good rebuilder
(Worldwide) or new ones from Moss.

The anti-sway bars fitted front and rear can be increased in
diameter to stiffen the cornering.

However, "lowering" the car is a real task if done correctly. Now
it is possible to purchase "lowering springs" but this is faulty engineering
as the camber of the front wheels is affected negatively. The proper
approach is to change the front cross member, which is a very daunting task,
to say the least. The rear spring/mounting position is changed pretty
easily with some spacer blocks. Another option for the front suspension are
some special kingpins created by Dick Luning of MG Limited in Madison WI.

My advice to those who want a lowered car is to purchase a chrome
bumper MGB. You CAN make your handle well by working with the existing
systems -- that's far easier and less expensive than either buying another
MGB or doing dramatic things with yours.

Hope this helps!

John

SuspensionLeaf SpringsJohn!
Last weekend I put new coil and leaf springs under the "Pearl" No more bottoming out but she looks like an animal in heat with her back end in the air ! Front is good. What is the best way to bring down rear without getting too soft again? Measuring thru center of wheel, lip is 26 in. 2 in. too much ! Do they make a longer spring shackle? Terry
Terry!

The new leaf springs are of erratic quality -- some too stiff, some too soft. Did you throw away your old springs? If not, you can either have them rebuilt or bring them up here and we'll swap them with a set of rebuilt ones (we have a well-trained spring shop). I sure do wish the suppliers could get this spring quality problem under control.

Longer shackles will do the trick, too. Eventually (sometimes even too soon) the springs will settle down.

Hope this helps!

John
SuspensionVibrationsHello John!

I have read your questions and answers about vibrations, and I'm pretty sure the vibration I am experiencing in my A comes from a need to buy new wheels, since I spun the wheels and they appear slightly out of round.

The thing that makes me wonder, however, is that I get vibration at about 35 mph, but the vibration disappears when I back off the accelerator. Does that mean the most likely culprit is the driveshaft, or could it still be the wheels?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Lee
Lee!

There are only five things that can cause a vibration: four wheels and the driveshaft. The wheels probably don't know if you're accelerating or decelerating -- the driveshaft does. I guess if I were going to check something out first it would be the driveshaft. Are the fixed axis aligned? Does the shaft have even a hint of a dimple? You can have a driveshaft rebuilt and balanced with new U Joins for about $150.

Hope this helps!

John
SuspensionCoil-Over SuspensionHello John!

My question involves a road you've been down before. Let me add that, prior to bothering you, I went through all my "MGB Drivers," from 1996 to date, and didn't see the question addressed.

I have a 74 1/2 rubber bumper MGB GT that has many (tasteful) non original modifications. It's cranberry clear coat and you may have seen it in "Enjoying MG," having been in two articles.

I will be fitting the Hoyle Engineering coil-over front suspension conversion. In conjunction with this, I'll be using a chrome bumper cross member to lower the front of the car. I believe that some modification is necessary to the steering gear but I can't find the definitive reference. Would the best route be to fit a reconditioned chrome bumper specification steering rack assembly? Or is it the steering shaft that must be dealt with. I've done a lot of work on both my "Bs" so I'm sure I can handle whatever you suggest.

As a side question, have you had any experience with the rear parabolic leaf springs as sold by the MGOC of the UK?

Thanks in advance and Safety Fast!

Bob

Bob!

You know, I really don't have any information at all about the coil over suspension. It must be that the manufacturer has some idea -- or, if not, then the firm that sold it to you. I'm sorry that I cannot be of more assistance.

John
SuspensionUneven Ride HeightHi John.

I recently acquired a 1975 MG Midget 1500. The car is slanted so that the entire driver’s side is lower than the passenger side. I replaced the front coil springs but the slant continues. What would you recommend? Any help greatly appreciated.



Thanks,

Carl
Carl!

Change the top shock bushings. Use the most durable bushings you can buy.

We suspect that the front cross members bend, but I've never confirmed this.

What about the leaf springs?

John
SuspensionSuspension and Tune UpJohn, will the negative camber A arms improve the steering performance like the sellers claim. My B is a weekend driver, not a racer. Also, somewhere in my cars history it was "detoxed" looks like a nice clean conversion....my question is what spec should i use for tuneup?? I'm guessing it should be tuned like an early car, pre-emission? am i right??
Thanks, John
John!

Engineers with more training, education, and probably paid more than we are designed this suspension to work well. I need to be convinced that the standard setup is lacking -- and I'm a tough bird to convince!

Tuning: Valves at 0.013" Timing at 32 BTDC at 4000 rpm vac disconnected. Plugs at 0.035" Drive it up here -- I can tune an MGB better than most anyone!

John
SuspensionMGB LoweringDr. Twist,
I've been the proud owner of a 75B for 23 years, recently bringing it back to life after years of sitting. Now I wish to lower the suspension all around because it sits very high, and I've been told that it is one of the best things I can do to improve the feel of the car. I still have the original front springs, but installed new seven-leaf springs on the back (as original). I've been told I can use lowering blocks in the back and maybe remove a leaf from each spring (which one to remove I wouldn't know); for the front I could get chrome bumper springs, or the special lowering springs from a catalogue. My ride height now is (from middle of wheel to bottom of chrome strip)

LF 15 1/2" RF 15 3/4"

LR 14 3/8" RR 14 5/8"

Thanks for your knowledge.
John

John!

Follow me through on this:

The front suspension was designed to work with a certain castor, camber, and toe-in. As the coil springs collapse, the camber goes negative. If you put shortened coil springs on the front of the car, the camber will be negative. Plus, the front suspension will not have the travel it should (full bump and rebound).

As you might surmise, I'm no fan of "lowering." If you want a lower MGB, buy a chrome bumper model.

If you want your MGB to handle well, the MOST important addition is an anti sway bar to the front end. A similar bar at the rear will help, too, but no where as dramatically as in the front. Don't believe all that stuff you read on the web. Lowering is not a good idea. A strong, front anti sway bar is your ticket to fun driving. Plus, it's a lot less difficult!

This isn't what you wanted to hear, I know --- but consider it!

John
SuspensionFaulty Leaf SpringsDear John:

I have a question on a 73 MG Midget Rear Suspension.

Some time ago, I purchased a new semi-elliptical leaf-spring and bushing kit from Victoria British. I removed the rear axle, etc, and replaced both leaf springs, bushings, check straps -- and reinstalled the damper units.

The process was fairly straightforward -- but I have a problem no adjustment seems to solve.

The axle seems to sit several inches lower than before. I do have the engine and transmission out of the car -- but the axle seems much lower than should be proper. )The prop shaft would presently sit 2-3 inches higher than the differential unit.)

The check straps are fully extended, and there is about 6 inches between the rubber bumpers on the top of the axles and the under side of the body.

Is there some other adjustment I can make to reduce the space between the tires and the round arches -- or will the weight of the engine/transmission take up this slack?

I would greatly appreciate any help you could give me.

David

David!

The springs are faulty at the get go, it's as simple as that. Many of the new leaf springs, made in England, supplied by many of the big suppliers are faulty right out of the box, some sitting too low, some too high, and many collapsing within a disturbingly short time. Do you still have your old springs? They can be rebuilt by a competent spring shop. BTW, if those springs are low now, wait until you get the power train installed! Oh, another thing, the coil springs are not to be trusted, either. Why these firms continue to sell parts they know might be faulty is beyond me!

John.
SuspensionRear Leaf SpringsDear John,


I would greatly appreciate your advice regarding the springs for my '77 MGB RDST. I have twice purchased new rear leaf springs for the rdst that I am restoring. Both sets (from each of the major parts suppliers) have presented a problem that has baffled me and my fellow auto club members. It seems that the arc of the spring is too tight (small) resulting in a very highly raised rear part of the body. It is so high that I cannot attach the exhaust pipe to the rear bracket. I barely can connect the shock lever to the rear axle. I've ordered the correct part I believe (Moss # 454-775 with 6 leaves). Any Ideas as to what I might do to correct this problem. I have completely restored 3 other MG's and have never dealt with this issue.....Thank you, John

Jack
Jack,

The problems with the rear springs are from the supplier, apparently common to all the major parts houses. I've never fitted new leaf springs -- I've always had the old ones rebuilt. At first this was because of the price, but now it's because of the quality.

I've received any number of communications from owners whose springs are too tightly arched or, if they fit, they will collapse within six months or so. It's all so very frustrating because the problems are not consistent.

If you want a set of rebuilt springs, our price is $275 with a $100 core charge. The banding on the springs is the "modern" band type and not the really cool thick strap style of the originals. Other than that, they're great.

SuspensionChanging Leaf SpringsHello John

I have been watching with great interest your demonstrations on the you tube website regarding problems we have with our mgs

Is it possible john that you can put a demo on regarding the changing of a leaf spring on a 1965 mgb roadster

ive put mine on and i cant get the car to sink lowe enough as the shackles seem to be pointing forward too much and im not to sure how to correct it

regards



john
John!

The next time we fit leaf springs I'll make a YouTube video. That may be next week, it may be several months. We always fit rebuilt springs, but I sure have heard many complaints about the quality of the new ones: too stiff (your problem); too weak; or premature collapse. You might be able to fit yours by attaching them at the front, then jacking up on the springs under their center -- where the rear axle fits. You problem is not unique to you!

Congrats on owning a real University Motors supplied MG!

John
SuspensionMGA SuspensionAt one of the last meetings I attended there you had a MGA frame, set up with all the suspension parts. It had an anti-roll bar installed. Do you have any notes on placing a MGB roll bar on my 1960 MGA roadster? Do you have to shorten the link between the bar and the lower "A" arm?
The single most dramatic improvement you can make to the MGA suspension is the addition of that anti sway bar. You can use the bar from an MGB, the links, and the A arms. Nothing needs to be shortened. You must have the front web assembly modified for the sway bar if it's not been done already. Paul can do that for you at Sportscar Craftsmen in Arvada, CO.
SuspensionMG VibrationMy restored ’64 B develops a front-end vibration at about 30-35 mph and disappears around 45mph. The car has wires.



New tires, balanced, still vibrates. Rotated all wheels several times & combos, still vibrates. Toe-in double checked, ditto. Now, the rotors are (probably) original but I did have them turned and they are within tolerance. Could they be off-balance? Also, the front hubs are original; could the splines be worn enough (or off balance) to cause this? Wheel bearings are new. Could it be that I did not use the correct shims?



The vibes are subtle but annoying. Any ideas? Thanks John.

The only difference between sitting still, engine revving, and doing 35 mph is that the four wheels and the driveshaft are turning. So, all vibration begins at one of those locations. A problem with a front wheel will cause the steering wheel to shake; a problem with the driveshaft will cause a whole body vibration; a problem with a rear wheel can also cause the body to shake. If you let your car roll down the street, engine off, the steering wheel should remain steady -- there should not be a pulse. If there is, then there is a lump or a flat spot on the wheel.

Jack up the front of the car and spin the wheels by hand. As seen from the front, there should be no wobble in the tread. Place your hand on the tread and spin the wheel -- you should feel no flat spots, neither lumps or scalloping. If the wheels are free from fault, then it's a matter of balancing.

There are two types of wire wheels -- Dunlop and Dayton. The Dunlop wheels are made in India; the Dayton wheels made in Ohio. The Ohio wheels are far superior to the Indian manufactured ones.

Of course, if one of the shocks is faulty, then you can have a problem with vibration as the dampers do just that, dampen the harmonic action of the front coil springs.
SuspensionHandlingI have a '64 MGB roadster with 4.5 inch wire wheels and need to buy some tires. I live in the California, Sierra Foothills and think my car is well suited for zooming around the narrow windie roads we have here. There seems to be quite a bit of controversy over the size and kind of tire for my application. I also plan to modify my suspension for better handling. For starters I have a set of plastic bushings to replace the rubber ones and at this time I will install the camber changing A frames. I need a sway bar, my car didn't come with one. What sway bar should I use? How about one for the back? Anyway, my question is: what do I need to do to make my car handle it's best? I am not building a race car. The single, greatest improvement you can make for handling is the front anti-sway bar. You can fit the original 9.16" or the GT 5/8" bar (don't go bigger for a street car). Finding these right now is difficult, I believe, because the manufacturer is /was having difficulty with the sizing. If Moss doesn't have one available, try to find a used one. The plastic bushings are a slight improvement. I am unfamiliar with the feel of the camber changing A Arms. There is now a shim for the castor so that the radial tires feel better. For tires, most owners go for a 185/70 - 14 but the closer you can get to a 165-14 the better. I do believe Coker has Michelin XZXs for sale for $200 each -- something like that. Maybe British Wire Wheel has an answer for you for tires -- I know they sell Vredesteins for the 15 inch rims.
SuspensionRear Leaf Springs first i would like to thank you for the expert repair
on a clutch master cylinder 1970 mgb roadster clutch
works fine now New problem ive noticed my mgb sags
slightly on the drivers side im thinking the spring is
more compressed than the passanger side how do i level
the car up thanks
You need new leaf springs. Do not buy new ones. Moss does not sell quality
leaf springs. If you ship yours to us we can re-arch them for $250.
TuneSputtering & Stalling Up Hills My 77 MGB sputters and stalls when ever I go up a hill. On level ground or down hill it runs fine. I replaced the fuel pump but it did not help. Can you help?

Harry Latch, Painesville, Ohio

HARRY!

I am not certain whether the problem you have is a dramatic loss of power caused by a faulty tune-up -- or whether the problem is simply a matter of attitude (not YOURS! -- the car's!). The second case is the easier one -- so try it first:

Remove the evaporative loss control line from the rear of the carb -- the one that goes over to the charcoal canister. It should make NO difference whether this is connected or not. If there is ANY difference, then there is a problem with the charcoal canister (plugged).

If, on the other hand, the car simply has no power and just cannot make it up the hill, I would suggest going through a minor tune-up.

Let me know more, if you wish.
TuneRun OnJohn,

why would a late model MG have a RUN ON condition, where the engine would continue to run after the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, and the key removed, for up to about 15 seconds?

the MG owners in my local area say this is a "normal" condition for this vehicle... which i do not accept... i have worked on all sort of engines, and never had this sort of thing occur with anything from a lawnmower to a jet engine..

thank you for the information on your website and personal attention in this.. have a safe new year...

BARNEY!

This particular situation occurs ONLY in the 1977 and early 1978 MGBs and is caused by an error in the wiring design. Follow me through on this -- it's really fascinating!

The ignition key switches on the WHITE CIRCUIT: 1) fuel pump; 2) TCSA (transmission controlled spark advance) circuit; 3) ignition light; 4) ignition relay. The ignition relay switches on the WHITE/BROWN: 1) cooling fans; 2) unfused side of the "GREEN" circuit; and 3) the ignition coil.

When the key is turned off, the engine is still turning and the alternator is still sending 12v up the BROWN/YELLOW to the ignition light, through the ignition light and into the WHITE circuit. This trickle of voltage holds the ignition relay closed! Therefore, the coil continues to work!!!!

In the normal course of affairs, when the key is turned off, the SLATE circuit goes hot. The SLATE circuit is connected to the anti run-on valve, and the valve is connected to a "normally OFF" oil pressure switch on the firewall. So, when the key is turned OFF and there is still oil pressure, the anti run-on valve operates.

When the anti run-on valve operates, it blocks the free flow of air into the bottom of the charcoal adsorption canister, into the engine, out of the front tappet inspection cover, and into the carburettor. Therefore, the charcoal canister begins to evacuate. Since the canister is connected to the vent on the carburettor float bowl, that vacuum is placed on top of the gasoline, making it difficult for the air passing through the carb to draw gasoline from the jet. There's still more here...

Additionally, when the anti run-on valve operates, it routes vacuum from the intake manifold into the charcoal canister -- and the canister is REALLY evacuated. The presentation of 18" of vacuum on top of the gasoline in the float bowl stops the engine DEAD!

The problem you have is that there is a leak in the hoses between the anti run-on valve and the canister, or between the canister and the engine, or between the canister and the carb, or there is a problem with the carb(air leak to the float bowl).

Simple?

The quick solution is to place a diode in the BROWN/YELLOW wire which exits the alternator. Wire this in with the arrow of the diode pointing TOWARDS the alternator. Find the diode behind the glovebox (part of the brake warning light system) or buy one at radio shack (12 volts, probably a couple of watts).

Hope this helps!
TuneCough at 70 MPHJohn,

I have a 1976 MGB which has been retrofitted with a set of SU carburetors. The car seems to run well except for when I'm on the interstate. It wants to cough when maintaining speed. If I either let off the gas or accelerate the coughing disappears. The situation seems to happen most when maintaining 70 MPH.

I've hooked a vacuum gauge from the intake manifold and installed an Oxygen sensor in the exhaust system to help in trouble shooting. While maintaining speed and Rpm's the vacuum gauge indicates a drop in vacuum to about 5 inches of vacuum at the same time oxygen sensor indicates a progressively lean condition until it goes off scale. Consistently the cough happens at 5 inches of vacuum.

I'm running rich needles in the carburetors. I originally set the needle valve for the float chamber as per instructions in the manual using a 1/8" drill bit. The situation happened whenever I maintained a constant speed. I then removed the washer from under the needle valve and have seen improvement to only coughing when maintaining 70 MPH.

I don't really know where to go from here. Should I try to find a metering needle with a different taper? Could the dash pot pistons be worn allowing the vacuum to dissipate? At this point I'm guessing.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Dan Lamb

DAN! Spitting, coughing, hesitating, feeling as if the MGB is towing a trailer or running into a headwind -- these are all symptoms of running too lean OR retarded timing.

I'd start with the timing. There are two types of distributors with vacuum advance -- one that has a 10 degree mechanical advance and one that has a 20 degree mechanical advance. If yours is 13, call it 10; if yours is 18, call it 20. In the first case, the 10 degree distributor (common to the MGA/MGB 1955 - 1968), time the car at 20 BTDC and connect the vacuum to the CARB; in the second case, time the car at 15 BTDC at 1500 vacuum disconnected -- then connect the vacuum to the MANIFOLD.

My guess is that you'll find your problem here.

Also, disconnect the vent line from the float bowls to the charcoal canister -- at least allow the vent lines vent directly to the atmosphere -- If there is ANY change in the way the car runs, work with that canister!

An oxygen sensor and a vacuum gauge? I've never even tried these methods for the "on the road" testing. Fascinating!!
TuneLost Power My wife drives a 79 MG Midget. It has about 20 thousand on a engine rebuild. It used to run like the proverbial "stripped *#$@% monkey" Lately it has lost a lot of power. With the pedal mashed all the way it only hits 70. It has new plugs, electronic ignition. Its hard starting when warm. You know the noise it makes with a vacuum leak? This one makes the same noise on deceleration. A short time ago I found most of the exhaust manifold nuts had backed off. I tightened them as best I could, giving where they are at. Could something be warped?

respectfully

Bill Hazel

BILL!

There are so many individual parts of the tune-up -- but it works into four major areas: engine, ignition, carburetor, and emissions.

Make certain the compression is OK, make certain that the timing is correct (which is either 20 BTDC or 4ATDC depending on the vacuum advance or retard), make certain that the diaphragm in the carb is not torn; and make certain that the charcoal canister is not causing problems (disconnect it from the carb).

You know that the car runs well ONLY with the factory air cleaner.

I know this is well after the fact, but let me know what you found!
TuneCough Upon Acceleration I have a 1976 MGB that I'm in the process of restoring. I must say the restoring process has been a learning one for me. I do have a problem with an intermittent cough or putt upon acceleration. The car starts and idles fine. Gas mileage is in the high teens. I have done the following
power train items over the last two years since I've been restoring:
1. SU HS4 Conversion (AUD 135)
Throttle shafts rebushed on both carburetors
New jet bearing kit on both carburetors
New jets on each carburetor
New needle valve and seats for both carburetors
New floats on each carburetor
New metering needles for each carburetor

2. New exhaust system (Headers through tailpipe)

3. Valve Job

4. Head machined (trued for flatness)

5. Electronic Ignition (Crane XR-700)

6. Changed spark plugs and wires

7. Changed the thermostat.


This item may be of note.. I tried to check the metering needles to see if the same needle was in each carburetor. The front carburetor metering needle was removed easily. It had a 6 on the portion of needle that goes in the piston. I was not successful extracting the metering needle from
the rear carburetor. I'm sure I could get it out of the piston but, I didn't want to damage the needle. I remember the needle was quite tight when I changed them with the carburetor rebuild. The cough or putt seems to happen within the first 1/2 hour of running usually at speeds 50 mph or greater. After 30 minutes or so the car seems
to run well. Engine temperature is is the normal range after several minutes. Could I have the wrong metering needles installed? Any ideas on what to do next? I would be glad to purchase metering needles or any needed items
from University Motors. Unfortunately I'm located close to Chattanooga Tennessee or I would bring the car in. Any help will be gratefully accepted.
Thanks, Dan Lamb

DAN!
I suspect you have a problem with timing -- not carburetion,
as you are using the rich needles for that application -- but there are several other considerations, too. Those carbs (needles, really) are designed to be used with the Smith's PCV valve, a mushroom shaped job that sits on the intake manifold. If yours is there - great. But if it's not, I wonder how you are venting your engine? If you are NOT using that PCV valve, then the needles should really be MB (AUD 1483) for a standard application (still #6's for a
rich mixture). In any case...

The timing. I would set your timing at 15 degrees BTDC at
1500 rpm, vacuum disconnected -- and then connect it to the INTAKE MANIFOLD, NOT THE CARBS. This conforms to the later engine specification and probably works better with your distributor. If the engine is too lean or too retarded then you'll get the feeling that you are pulling a trailer, or you are fighting a headwind -- and, sometimes, the car spits, coughs, hiccups. Try the timing change -- or
let me know what type of distributor you have in the car.
First lets answer your questions:
I do have a PCV valve on the intake manifold so the engine is vented.
The distributor is a Lucas 25D with a Crane XR-700 electronic ignition.
As per your suggestion I have set the timing to 15 degrees at 1500 RPM with the vacuum source disconnected and plugged. I've changed the vacuum source for the vacuum advance from the carburetor to the intake manifold. The
carburetor port has been plugged.
After I set the timing to 15 degrees with the engine running I removed the plug from the vacuum line and connected it to the vacuum advance on the distributor. The engine remained at 1500 RPM but the timing changed to 7
degrees. Is there something wrong with the distributor? I assumed the timing would advance not retard.
I took the car on a test drive. At approximately two miles into the test the car spit while maintaining 60 MPH. At about 2 1/2 miles the car spit while maintaining 55 MPH and again a spit at about three miles while maintaining 50 MPH. The last spit occurred at 40 MPH while accelerating
in third gear.
Is it time to readjust the gas mixture or do you think something is going on with the distributor?

Grateful for all your help,


DAN!
Please examine your vacuum advance and your mechanical advance to ensure that both are working. When you place a vacuum on the vac adv unit, the CB plate in the distributor should move ANTI-CLOCKWISE, advancing the timing. Further, the rotor should be free so that you are able to, again, advance the timing by rotating the dist cam ANTI-CLOCKWISE. If the mechanical advance is frozen, then the basic timing, while correct at idle, will never change. If, for some bizarre reason, you have a vacuum retard on the
distributor, the timing moves in the wrong direction with vacuum. Just offhand, with the timing set at 15 BTDC at 1500 rpm, vac disc, the timing will jump ahead to nearly 30 BTDC when reconnected. Hope this helps at this late date.

John
TunePerformance IdeaYes recently i read your tips on detoxing a mgb and i thought of an
additional possibility, after a few design changes in the air pump (
remachining, and adding better bearings ) i reinstalled my air pump and
ran the inlet hose twards the front of the car past the radiator just so
it was peeking out the front bumber a little so it was getting cool air
to pump to the cylinders rather then old stale hot air , and it seemed
to add some preformance , ( it kinda simulated an early version of a
super charger) im currently experimenting with different injector tips
and finding a more efficient way to cool the air, now as for the rest of
the egr system well off the car it went , but i figured i ask your
opnion on this setup and any thing you can think to add to it let me
know

Mike!

It is difficult to understand just what you've done with the airpump
without a better explanation. If you have left the air injection manifold
in place, and are pushing fresh air into that, then the action of the
airpump is not at all like a supercharger -- it is only pushing air into the
exhaust to help complete combustion -- and the hotter the air, the greater
the ease of the chemical reaction. If you have left the injector on the
inlet manifold and are pushing fresh air into there -- well, that's only
leaning out your mixture.
That little tiny pump cannot begin to move the air necessary to
power the engine, so, again, please send more detail about your project.
TuneSputteringMy A with 1800 B 3main/ w "race" cam & 1-3/4 SU's ran fine for the first
month or so after purchasing it. (car had been stored 12 years after
rebuild, 1200 miles on rebuild
Now has started sputtering/ bogging down when it gets hot (usually after a
trip on the highway) It idles OK, runs OK at high and low RPM's, but boggs
in mid RPM travel ~around 2500-3200RPM's...not 100% consistent. Can also
be
difficult to start when cold.
Had the SU's set up by mech. a few weeks before problems started.
Just installed Mallory dual point without vac. advance, runs great all
RPMs
when cold & warm. Get on the highway for a few miles, boggs down again.
ARRGH! New plugs, new wires, checked timing, new Lucas sport coil. Now
what?
Back to the SU's again. Never touched these things before, should I start
now or call a mechanic that knows SU's. Someone suggested going back to
H4's, but as the car ran fine when I bought it, why would I want to?? Are
the needles the place to start?? Is there any way to trouble shoot the
SU's
or is a complete rebuild the way to go? Am I barking up the wrong tree?
Any assistance or guidance would be appreciated
Andrew Kozak

ANDREW!

You've got a number of non-original parts so this may be difficult
to diagnose, sitting in an armchair 1000 miles away. Back up: the MGA ran
"fine" until you had some work done -- was that the distributor AND the carb
adjustments? If so, back up again and replace the dual point Mallory with
the original Lucas -- does it make a difference? Just offhand, the Mallory
should be set up so that it has an advance that allows the car to idle at
about 20 BTDC, yet hit a maximum advance of 35 degrees by about 4000 rpm.
If you check the dwell, you'll find a very high number (the advantage of
dual points).

Look at your plugs after a long (ten mile) run with no idling at the
end. Are they WHITE, TAN, or BLACK. White is too lean, tan is just right,
and black is waaay too rich. Inspect the jets in the carbs -- do they drop
when you pull out the choke (I assume you've got HS6, not HIF)(if you've got
HIFs, the problem is the rotary chokes). Enrichen the mixture so that the
idle increases 50rpm when the air piston is lifted upwards (about 1/8 inch).

You can call me during my technical hour, 1-2 PM EST, Monday -
Friday, at 616 682 0800.
TuneLack of PowerJohn,
The car ran fine originally. I had the SU's adjusted to see if it would
idle
better, which it did afterward (at least as smooth as I expected with a
hot
cam) Some time later (a couple of weeks I think), just after a long stand
still traffic jam in Toronto on a very hot summer day, I noticed the lack
of
power at mid RPM's. Brought up the RPM's, power returned? Ever since that
day, I keep having the same problem. I replaced the rotor as the base of
it
was cracked off, making it impossible to secure 100%, allowing some
movement, and occasionally popping out of the block (that's fun) I thought
my mid RPM stumble was due to the distributor, and decided to replace it
with a Mallory dual point, and also did the plugs, wires, and then reset
the
valve clearances and set the timing. The A runs a lot smoother now on
idle!!, but still has the same stumble on and after the highway run.
I was just out with my A putting larger heat shields on (the ones that
were
on the car were 2-1/2" wide x 2-1/2" long & I replaced them with the S.S.
ones Moss sells from Anglo Parts for 1-3/4" SU's) to see if that would
help
(now I need new gaskets as the old ones are history and may have been
leaking) I wont know if there was a seal problem there until I get things
back together. Upon a closer inspection of the SU's, I can tell you the
following: there is no float on the side of the unit, there is a plate at
the bottom of them that is square and mounts with four screws, the gas
connections are slip on tube fittings toward the fender side of the carb
and
the linkages between them are all custom (not tubes) They are definitely
1-3/4" and the manifold is ported out to 1-3/4".
I will check the plugs when I get things running, but when they were last
inspected I believe the were tan to black, but I do remember letting the
car
idle after the highway run, so this may not be accurate.
Thanks a lot,
Andrew Kozak

ANDREW!

You must have HIF carburetters (Horizontal, Integral Float). These
have a rotary choke (instead of dropping the jet as in the H and HS
(Horizontal and Horizontal, Short body). To repair the chokes, you'll need
to remove the carbs from the car (horrors) and then disassemble the choke
assys. You'll need the O ring (my guess as to the faulty part) as well as
rubber, supple, AUD 3577 seals. The O ring is a standard 010 neoprene ring,
but the seals you'll have to get from a carburetter specialist or MG
supplier. If you're doing the work yourself, then read a later model MGB
workshop manual. If you're paying for the work, I would think that it could
be done in 2-3 hours (which includes changing those gaskets you're concerned
about, but which are NOT making any difference in the way the car runs at
higher speeds -- gasket leaks ONLY affect idle).
The parts are less than $US10.
TuneStumbling On/Off HighwayI will check the plugs tomorrow. Seems to idle very smoothly now that all
of
the air leaks around the carb to manifold have proper gaskets. Could the
choke be the culprit causing the stumble on/ off the highway at off idle
and
mid RPM's? I did notice the rear gasket at the heat shield seemed to be
saturated after a few minutes of idle, wonder if the rear SU is way to
rich,
or the choke (used to start) is flooding the intake manifold??
Anyway, I will report back on the plugs, thanks for all the help.
Andrew Kozak

Andrew!

Again, tiny air leaks cause a problem ONLY at idle. When the
throats are opened up, something the size of a pinhole has no practical
effect. I do believe it is the rotary chokes. Bob Mason agrees with me
(don't you Bob?).
TuneBackfireI live in Livonia, MI and have a '74 MGB with 84,000 miles. I'm having
trouble finding the cause of a backfire occurring when the throttle is
opened
quickly. It also has a serious lack of power.

So far I have changed the diaphragm on the distributor, the condenser
and
coil, spark plugs, spark plug and coil wires, head gaskets, intake
gaskets,
fuel filter, jets and needles (twin SU carbs), and float valves. The
head has
had a valve job with new guides.

I set the timing at 10 btdc with the vacuum disconnected and checked
the
operation of the distributor and can see the timing advance with higher
rpms,
and retard with a drop of manifold vacuum. There is slightly uneven
deposits
of carbon on the plugs, two of them staying clean and two getting sooty.
Idle
is semi smooth after it warms up and revving up slowly is also smooth
enough.
I'm fairly confident that there is no intake leak.

This engine ran well until now. The vacuum is 17" at idle and the
compression
is 130 psi in each cylinder. Each step has produced no improvement. This
engine also had emission controls that have been removed with the holes
in the
head plugged but the vents around the jets left unplugged but filtered
to
keep dirt out (Plugging them made it run bad).

I know I probably need to do more of an overhaul, but I was trying to
see if
these easier repairs would make it drivable. Should I be looking at
something
else before I get into an overhaul, or could I be overlooking something
on
the things I have already checked? Thank you for your help.

John Harden

John Harden!

I would check the vacuum advance to ensure it is not perforated
(most are). Then, I would set the timing at 15 BTDC at 1500 rpm, vacuum
disconnected. Then, I would make certain that the PCV system is complete:
hose from valve cover to charcoal adsorption canister, line from carb vents
to charcoal adsorption canister, 90 hose from front tappet inspection cover
to plastic Y piece and then to the angled vents between the jet and the
throttle disc (front of the front carb, rear of the rear carb). Adjust the
carbs as you would an earlier SU -- after ensuring both carbs are drawing
the same quantity of air at about 900 rpm, lift the piston and judge the
change in rpm. A piston lift of about 1/16 should give an increase of 50 or
so rpm. If the idle falls off, the mixture is too lean; if the idle rises
higher and higher as you lift the air piston, the mixture is too rich.

Spitting, coughing, hesitating, running at high speed as though
you're up against a head wind or pulling a trailer -- these are all
conditions caused by retarded timing or lean mixture. You'll find your
problem with one or both of these.

Hope this helps!
TuneIdle SpeedI am having a problem with the high speed adjustment when the car is cold
and
the choke is on. It runs for about two miles at 2000 rpm until the choke
is
open.

Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated.

Roland H. Tatro

Roland!

Actually, your fast idle speed is not too far wrong -- expect it to
run best at about 1600. Use the SPRING LOADED screw to adjust the fast
idle. Then, when the car is hot, used the LOCKNUTTED screw to adjust the
normal idle. Use the spring loaded screw for all small changes after that.
Hope this helps!
TuneHesitation, Electrical ProblemsHello John
I have a 1978 MGB, and after having done some reading and checking
serial numbers, etc., I learned it actually has a 1974 engine. I
recently had a new set of SU HIF carbs installed and I noted right away
that the engine seemed to have a slight hesitation while running at a
steady speed. It is like one of the cylinders doesn't fire occasionally,
but the slack is then taken up as it continues running. It is most
noticeable between 2000 and 3000 rpm, in all gears. It is less
noticeable in 4th and overdrive, but is quite noticeable in 2nd and
3rd. It accelerates and idles just fine, however - at least there is no
noticeable hesitation, if there is any at all. There have been three or
four occasions where the engine simply quit, as if the ignition had been
turned off. It did start again after a few tries and I was able to
continue driving. Also, on a few other occasions the engine almost
quit, but kept going for several minutes and the problem cleared up
enough to continue driving. I checked the fuel pump flow and it seems
to be ok. The distributor had a frayed low tension lead inside, which I
repaired, and I cleaned the distributor and all the contacts on the
ignition wires and coil, but that did not seem to help the hesitation.
I suspect the cause is not the new carbs, but some electrical fault. My
feeling is perhaps the coil or distributor. Also today, I noted the
tachometer needle suddenly dropped to 0 for several seconds and the left
turn signal, which was flashing at the time, also quit working. After
several seconds, they both stared working again. There was no
noticeable change in the engine speed at this time. Since I was waiting
to make a left turn, I revved the engine a few times and it seemed to be
ok, and I was able to drive off again normally. There also have been a
number of other incidents where the tachometer needle suddenly dropped
to 0 and returned to normal in a second or two. I understand voltage
pulses from the coil are converted into tachometer rpm, which leads me
to think the coil is involved. It is a 16C6 (6 volt) coil, which I
understand is ballasted, and installed on 1975 and later units. The
wiring diagram indicates a "resistive cable" on a white/light green wire
from the distributor, and a "resistor for distributor" (which i presume
is the ballast - correct me if I am wrong) connected on the other end
with a white wire. I can't seem to locate either of these items. Where
would they be located (they could have been removed, also)? The engine,
as I indicated above, is a 1974 model and some of the wiring and hoses
have been rerouted to fit the layout of the 1978 body, so it is a bit
confusing trying to work with the wiring diagram. Would the engine
still run with a 6 volt coil if the ballast has been bypassed or
removed? Should I replace the coil with the earlier HA12 (12 volt) and,
if so, how would I go about making the corresponding changes in the
wiring to accommodate it? Any thoughts on where the problem may be
originating, so I can make a start on finding the fault.
I apologize for the length of my explanation, but I felt you should
be given all the information instead of me simply asking something like
"my engine quit, any ideas?"

GEOFF!

Sorry for the delay in answering.

You have three problems: dirty fusebox, a lean carb condition, and
an unknown condition. The dirty fusebox is allowing the WHITE/GREEN fuse to
occasionally fail to make contact, hence the loss of the tach, temp gauge,
gas gauge, BRAKE LIGHTS, turn signals, heater fan. I say this because the
MGB is not killing when you lose the tach. On the other hand, the car HAS
quit several times. This "could be" the ignition relay (SRB 402) located to
the FRONT of the fusebox, carrying BROWN, WHITE/BROWN, BLACK, and WHITE
wires.
The running problem is due to: retarded timing or lean mixture.
Set the timing at 15 BTDC at 1500 vacuum disconnected. Set the carbs as you
would any older SU -- lift the piston 1/16 of an inch and judge the change
in rpm. You want a slight increase -- say 50 rpm. If the engine stalls as
you lift the piston, the mixture is too lean; if, on the other hand, the
engine rpm increases and increases as you lift the piston higher and higher,
then the mixture is too rich. BUT --

Please note the position and condition of the PCV (positive
crankcase ventilation) lines. The front tappet inspection cover should be
vented to a plastic Y piece and from there into the angled pipes at the
front of the front carb and rear of the rear carb. The float bowl vents
("overflows") should be connected to the charcoal canister without any dips
in the hose (where gasoline could collect).

Don't worry about the coil, that six volt unit is correct. The
ballast resistor is IN the wiring loom. It begins just below the fusebox
(it's a pinkish shellacky wire attached to a WHITE or WHITE/BROWN wire),
then travels to the left front of the vehicle where it's attached to the
WHITE/GREEN, then it travels back to the coil. The other WHITE/GREEN comes
from the starter solenoid. The WHITE and the WHITE/BLUE around the coil are
the connections to the DRIVE RESISTOR for the original Lucas electronic
ignition which has long since been replaced. Few are still on the road!

I hope this helps at this distance and time.
TuneMGB Popping John:
My problem relates to a 1977 MGB (Canadian edition).
The relevant facts are as follows:
The car was brought out of storage recently after many years of beauty
sleep
(BTW - I am the original owner and the car has but 10K miles on the
odometer.)
The stale gas has been siphoned out of the gas tank and new spark plugs
installed.
After getting the car back on the road, it was backfiring and "farting"
whenever I lifted off the accelerator - I replaced the gulp valve and the
backfiring problem was relieved.
However, whenever I lift off the throttle, it still "farts" and produces
some fireworks at the tip of the exhaust pipe.
Your guidance would be appreciated.
Regards
Ron Wieleba

RON!

Nearly all cars with working air pumps give a subdued "pop-pop-pop"
on deceleration. This is not uncommon on other vehicles with faulty
exhausts. In both cases, fresh air is entering the exhaust and combining
with the unburned fuel and burning. A true backfire is a massive burn, or
explosion. Your MGB is popping because of too much unburned fuel.

Experiment in the following manner: Use some vise-grips and close
off the hose from the air pump to the air manifold (the four injectors). Go
out and drive. My guess is that the popping will cease. Try clamping the
hose from the air pump to the gulp valve -- this may make a difference
(although I believe you'll find the former case truer).

Your MGB is running too rich because of an incorrect needle
adjustment -- OR -- because the choke is remaining on. If adjusting the
needle does not take care of the problem, then a rebuild of the choke is
probably in order.

Hope this helps.

SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
TuneSputtering after "extended" idle Hi Mr. Twist,

I own a 1968 MGB which runs well most of the time ... the problem I'm
currently having occurs when the car sits in traffic idling for an
"extended" time (over 5 minutes), especially on hot days. When the traffic
breaks free, the engine will sputter and bog as if it's running on less
than 4 cylinders. The sputtering ceases gradually after three to five
miles
of steady driving and continues to run OK after that. Could this symptom
possibly be caused fouled spark plugs? (Engine oil consumption is around
450-500 miles per quart). Any help is appreciated.

Thank You,

Rich Fine



Rich!

The hot days are gone and besides, you've probably already found the
problem with your MGB -- but some of this may help.

Your MGB IS (was) running rich. When idling (stop lights, stop
signs, stop/start traffic) ALWAYS put the gearbox in neutral, release the
clutch, and let the gearbox freewheel. This allows you to rev the engine
from time to time to keep the plugs from fouling.
Open the plugs to 0.035" -- this will slow fouling. Adjust the jet
adjusting nuts UP as far as necessary to smooth the running.

Hope this little bit at this late date.

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
Tune1978 MGB won't stay running I have a 1978 B with low mileage, nearly all original (full
emmissions) with the exception of electronic ignition. The car won't
stay running. When it is cold, it will start and run for about 1 minute
and then stall. It will start up again and run for about 20 seconds and
stall again. Then it will run for about 5 seconds and stall and won't
start again. New ignition relay and new gulp valve haven't solved the
problem. Anti run-on valve appears to be o.k. (tested according to
Haynes manual procedure). I just recently had the exhaust head replaced
b/c of a bad vacuum leak which reguired re-timing, carb. adjustment,
etc. Car has less than 10 miles on it since that work. I suspect
something related to the vacuum system but don't know where to look.


My comments here are so tardy, that I'm certain you've already found and
corrected the problem. I'd be interested to know just what you encountered
and how you corrected it.

It would seem that there was a vacuum placed into to charcoal adsorption
canister, and that, in turn, placed a vacuum above the gasoline in the float
bowl, leaning the mixture until there was simply no gasoline at all. This
could be from a plugged canister; from vacuum lines routed incorrectly; or
from a wrong anti run-on switch.

Let me know what you found.
TunePerformance; power; engine tuningThe goal is to increase power and decrease resistance (or load). Sort of like trying to run a business.

The first step is to add cylinders -- a V8. We've discounted that option.

The second step is to increase the displacement. Say we go to a 0.090 overbore (the Cortina pistons or Lotus Twin Cam pistons). That gives us 1903 cc vs. the 1798 original, an increase of 5.8%. Cost is pretty high -- start with another engine (one that I have here), have it bored ($120) and buy the pistons ($300??). Second option: go with the 0.040 over Lotus pistons (130 over MGB) for a bore of 3.290. That gives 1951 cc vs. 1798 or 8.5%. Buy the Lotus pistons or have them made? Forged pistons would be better, but probably another couple hundred dollars. I had a set made for Doug Kniff's twin cam engine, but I cannot remember the cost (and that was several years ago). The downside of this is that the cylinder walls may become too thin (I have little experience here) -- that's what "some" people say. I can find out more.

It is possible to "stroke" the engine -- perhaps by 0.020. That would increase the cc's by about 0.6% at a cost of around $200. Doesn't make "cents."

More later.

John
Tune78 MGB running problemSubject: HELP !! I cannot get my MGB'78 running properly


It all started when I decided to remove my Zenith Stromberg Carburettor due to smelling petrol while driving and decided at the same time to clean up the motor and replace the manifold gaskets. By cleaning up the motor I mean removing everything that was to do with the evaporation loss system and exhaust emission air injection system as the Germans had already removed the Air pump anyway. (It was considered illegal)



Firstly I removed the Air manifold and filled the holes with custom made screws. I removed the Gulp valve and adapter pipe and plugged the hole. I then replaced the EGR valve gasket with a self made closed aluminium gasket. So now the only pipes connected to the manifold are the Brake servo and the Distributor vacuum unit.



I removed all pipes leading to the evaporation loss system and the anti “run-on” valve. The evaporation loss system had been long disconnected from the petrol tank probably due to a blockage or someone not be aware of what it was. The anti “run-on” valve was also never really functioning because the valve to manifold pipe was never there and I am not sure where it is supposed to be connected to as there were no free adapters. Also the pipe from the valve cover to the canister is not connected to anything now (someone told me I should connect it using a T piece to the lower engine breather which connects to the Carburettor)



I removed the Carburettor, at the same time blocking off the evaporation loss system adapter. I started by removing the float chamber and noticed straight away why I was smelling petrol. A screw was missing !!!



I took the opportunity to replace the needle valve and diaphragm, and a friend of mine used a pressure gun to clean the various feed lines. I put it back together, put motor oil in the top and set the mixture to two full turns on the large nut and turn and a half full turns on the small screw to return to factory settings (if that is correct).



And that was that. At first the car started and I drove home from my friend’s garage roughly 30 min away. I stopped to fill-up with petrol and the car did not want to start. Since then a mechanic has managed to get it running but it does not run smoothly and know one in the east of Germany knows anything about MG’s.



I need help and fast. Loads of people have said I should just replace the Stromberg Carburettor with two HS4 Carburettors but as a Student I just can’t afford it.







Contact:



Daniel Smith

Germany



Dan!

I apologise for the time it's taken me to get back to you!

For the car to run properly, there are four "systems" that must be operational -- engine / ignition / carburetion / emissions.

The engine includes the cam, the valves and valve adjustment, the spark plugs (oh, I know, they "should" be with ignition, but I always include them in the engine) -- which should be Champion RN9YC (415) or equivalent. Except for clean plugs (new plugs), this hasn't changed since you did your work.

The ignition includes the distributor, the coil, the spark plug wires. These, too, haven't changed since you did your work.

Carburetion: the rubber diaphragm must be aligned correctly (not difficult as there are little "tags" on the diaphragm and notches in the carb body; the float height is such that the casting line in the float should sit horizontally with the base of the carb (when it's turned upside down) -- or at 5/8". The automatic choke must be free to rotate.

Emissions: It is not wise to completely disconnect the entire system. You can remove the air pump/gulp valve/air manifold -- that's OK. BUT -- you should leave the remainder of the system in place. There is a vent tube between the air piston and the throttle disc -- it sits at a 45 degree angle on the right rear of the carb -- this MUST be connected to the vertical pipe of the front tappet inspection cover. There is a vent tube for the float chamber. This should be connected to the charcoal adsorption canister -- it MUST NOT be plugged off!!

The inability to restart when hot is most often because the carb is adjusted too rich -- or because something is affecting the free flow of air in and out of the float bowl assy.

This response is tardy -- so if you are still having problems after this time, please get back in touch!

Happy New Year

John

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
(616) 682 0800
www.universitymotorsltd.com
TuneRoadster 79' Lurches and Backfires on AccelerationSubject: seriously need help


john - would appreciate any help here. 79 roadster w/79M miles. replaced
oil pump and lower bearings. ran rough - idled poorly. rebuilt zs carb,
replaced plugs, wires, cap, ran great. replaced fuel filter, car started
lurching on acceleration and heard whistle from engine on accereration.
pulled air pump, rail (filled holes with 3/4 bolts with non-hardening
gasket caulk), filled manifold hole. ran thin vacuum line fron dist to
manifold

now car lurches and backfires upon acceleration, tach no longer works -
help!

thanks,

ed falvo


Ed!

You have probably already worked out the problems with your
engine -- but here are some hints, just in case.

Engine: It seems like you haven't disturbed the valve lash (0.013"
HOT); you don't mention your compression which should be consistent within
10%; you probably have newer plugs (Champion RN9YC or 415); and you probably
have nice, clean oil!

Ignition: You didn't say if you removed the distributor -- I expect
that you did the oil pump/bearing work with the engine in the car (it's SO
much easier!). But, check the timing which should be 15 degrees BEFORE top
dead centre at 1500 rpm vacuum DISCONNECTED. I expect that your
cap/rotor/wires are all CLEAN!

Carburetion: Fuel flow is OK? You should get one pint per minute
from the fuel line. Oil in carburetter?

Emissions: Hose from front tappet inspection cover to vent on carb
MUST be there. Vent line from float bowl to charcoal adsorption canister
SHOULD be in place -- at least NOT PLUGGED!

The tach not working could be because the fuse is faulty (third fuse
down, WHITE/GREEN), loose connections at the distributor, or maybe something
else.

If you're STILL having trouble after all this time, either write
back -- or -- call me during tech time!

Happy New Year!

John



John - thanks for the info - a few additional questions-

1. According to the Bentley bible, timing should be 10 degrees BTDC, you
recommend 15 degrees @1500 rpm, what is the advantage of one vs. the
other?

Well -- try it at 10 and try it at 15. You should NEVER have any spark
knock (full throttle acceleration in 3rd gear from about 20mph).

2. Car backfires between shifts from 1st to second and occasionally in 4th
while cruising - this dissappears when the car reaches "normal" operaqting
temp - I suspect leak in some gasket that closes as the engine warms -

It's the automatic choke which hasn't come off soon enough allowing extra
fuel into the engine -- which then combusts when enough fresh air is added
(during deceleration).


thoughts?
3. I want to remove the zs, repalce with a weber (less hassle) have a
pre-74 exhaust manifold - your thoughts on a swap?

Use the Weber for grilling. Do you know why the Weber says "Bologna" on
top? I'm no fan of the Webers, as you might surmise. I like to work with
the original equipment.

Again - thanks,

Ed
Tune'75 MG Midget Stalls Everywhere and Is Running Rough; #3 Cy
John - my daughter just recently (3 months ago) bought a '75 MG Midget.
Not ever having an MG in the family, I surfed the net looking for
technical
data. Luckily I found your site and have used some of your info several
times already, but can not find any info on this particular problem.
About
6 weeks ago it started to stall every where she went and the car was
running rough. I started with checking her timing and found it running at
about 30 degrees BTDC. The Haynes manual recommended 4 ATDC for the 1500
engine. (All the emission controls have been taken off by a previous
owner). Compression is low in #2 cylinder, and we planned on fixing that
this spring. Upon trying to adjust the timing I could not get it past 14
BTDC and at the original setting the car would not idle properly, had to
adjust the idle up just to keep it going. I changed the points and checked
the dwell, 56 degrees, bought a new rotor, distributor cap, wires, plugs
and coil. Finally noticed that she has a 25D distributor and not a 45D.
So I set the static timing at 6 BTDC, and dynamic at about 28 BTDC, but
the
car still was running rough and would not idle properly. Finally traced
it
down to #4 cylinder not getting a spark. Swapped #3 and #4 spark plugs to
see if the trouble would follow, it did. So I put new plugs in and the
problem went away and I finished the timing of the car. Since that time I
keep losing spark on #3, the spark plug does have excessive fouling. I
have tried three different brands of plugs, the latest is suppose to be
running hotter, two sets of wires, and the problem still persists. The
car will run fine for a couple of days, maybe a week and then it starts up
again. My question is where does the problem lie? It is driving me nuts.
I would greatly appreciate an answer. Thanks. Randy



Randy!

There are several reasons the #3 cylinder continues to foul plugs.
The problem might be engine related (bad rings); it might be carburetter
related (mixture too rich); but it probably isn't ignition related as you've
already changed everything there.

The spark plugs should be Champion N12Y, now more easily available
as RN12YC. While the manual calls for a gap of 0.025" I have found that a
gap of 0.035" results in fewer fouled plugs. I think that with that 25D
distributor your best bet is to set the timing where the engine idles the
best (usually between about 10-20 BTDC vac disconnected, or 20-40 vacuum
connected. You see, there are two very different 25D distributors -- one
uses manifold vacuum, one uses ported or carburetter vacuum. Without
disassembling your distributor to look at the limiting finger on the cam,
you don't know whether you've got the 10 degree cam or the 20 degree cam.
The 10 degree cam is timed 20 before at idle and the vacuum is connected to
the high speed port on the carb. The 20 degree cam is timed at 15 before at
about 1500 with the vacuum disconnected. When you hook up the vacuum to
manifold vacuum, the timing jumps up to 35-40 BTDC at idle.

You should check the mixture on the carb, just to make certain that
it's not too rich.

In the end, you'll probably be faced with reworking the engine
before you thought you would.

Contact me before you get the engine work done, as there are a lot
of little tips I can offer to make the rebuild a good one!

John
TuneIdle "Shutters"Hi John,

I emailed you last year about the 1968 MGB "bogging" after idling on a
"warm" day ... I had the car tuned & the carburetors balanced. The car
runs
GREAT most of the time . but, sometimes, when coming to a stop, the car
will sometimes "shutter" and just stall out unable to "hold" the idle.
When
this behavior does not happen, the car idles fine & evenly. In the
"shuttering" mode, I need to pull out the choke to increase the idle. This
behavior tends to happen more when the engine is warm & usually upon a
"restart" of the car.

I also found out that the carbs are of the HIF type .. not original HS4.
Should this "mismatch" cause any problems?

Thanks for your help,

Regards, Rich Fine

Rich!

I apologize for this long delay in answering your letter.

Those HIF's have problems not encountered with the simpler HS's.
You can usually solve the HIF running problems by changing the needle/seat
and floats; and by changing the O ring in the rotary mixture control valve
on the side of the carb. This is not inexpensive -- the floats are about
$25 each, I think.

Perhaps you've already come upon a solution. Please let me know
what you did and whether that helped!

John
TuneMG Midget Sluggish Restart and Stalling Dear John,

I have experience a reoccuring problem over the past month with my 1976
midget.
The initial starting and running of the car has been just fine. However,
on a number of occasions, after shutting down the engine for a brief visit
to a store, the engine very sluggishly/slowly turns over. After about a
5-10 min. wait they problem seems to disappear and the engine turns over
fine and restarts.

Another recent occurence, while driving for about a 1/2 hour at sustained
speed the engine just suddenly died as if starved for fuel. Again after
resting for 5-10 mins. the engine resrted and I continued on my trip.

Are these problems related and any suggestion as to a solution?. The
charcoal canister is still connected to the carb which I plan to
disconnect
soon.

Please advise,

sincerely,



--- GARY O. SMITH

Gary!

That slow starter has had me buffaloed for years -- I cannot
remember ever getting an answer. Is it the battery (probably not); is it
the wiring (probably not); is it the starter motor (well...); is it the
engine (maybe.....). I guess I'd retighten all the starter and main cable
connections; then change the starter motor.

That fuel starvation could be vapour lock, which does not happen on
the other MG models. The pump, on the engine, pulls fuel from the tank and
then pushes it up to the carb. There is never a vapour lock on the pressure
side. The fuel line runs out of the tank, then across the top of the
gearbox (which is VERY hot), then to the fuel pump. I would disconnect the
line running across the gearbox and replace this line with standard 5/16
fuel line encased in a larger diameter hose (to prevent fuel boiling),
connected to the steel fuel line just to the rear of the gearbox, and run
directly to the fuel pump.

Hope this helps.

John
TuneMGB Driving InterruptionsGreetings John,
We are indeed enjoying the ride with my wife's 71 mgb roadster, and thanks for your help. I have two new questions.

First. We can enjoy the ride for about twenty miles and then the car loses power, like it's not getting gas. I will slow down and let it rest and then go again. I've checked the fuel filter and everything seems fine. When I took the hose off of the end of the filter gas just poured out. What do I look for next?

Second question, You were so helpful on the first time I contacted you, I didn't want to be a bother. Who, Where, should i direct my questions?

Thanks for your help

Tom Judge

Tom!

Again check that fuel flow -- remove the fuel feed from the carb and place it into a can or bottle. Turn on the key. You should get a one pint delivery in one minute. Unless the coil is HOT to the touch, I cannot think of another problem. But, if the fuel delivery (fuel filter!) is not the problem, get back in touch.

John
TuneMidget Backfiring
I have a problem. This is a good running car, but every time I drive
about
20 miles are so it starts spitting and backfiring. I stop for about 10
minutes and it runs fine for about 20 more miles. Its like a vapor lock
are
something. Do you recognize this problem?

Thanks
Randy
Randy!

Spitting, coughing, hiccupping -- these are all symptoms of a lean
mixture or a retarded spark. A true backfire sounds like a rifle shot down
the tailpipe. I expect you've got the former symptom. There are two common
reasons for a leanness -- vapour lock and canister blockage. Vapour lock
occurs because the fuel line crosses the top of the gearbox in a steel line
where it gets so hot that it boils. Repair this by replacing the tube
across the top with a rubber hose plumbed directly from the chassis fuel
line to the fuel pump.

The second problem may be caused by a plugged charcoal adsorption
canister which places a vacuum above the gasoline in the float bowl. Remove
all the hoses from the ELC/PVC system, blow through them, inspect all the
connections.

Hope this helps!

John


TuneCondensor Problem
1. When I drove the car I stopped for some fresh petrol. After fueling, I turned the key and heard the fuek pump click, the engine turned over but the ignition was dead. I checked and the headlight circuit was dead as well. When I got back to my garage tonight, I noticed that the headlights shining on the back wall were dimming and getting brighter. I turned off the car and when I went to restart it the samr thing occurred, cranking but no spark or lights. Is this a problem with the voltage regulator?

2. The idle is really high. I have the adjustment screws backed all the way out. I can lift the accellerator with the top of my foot and it will idle down but when released it revs back up to about 1500 revs. Is this a problem with the carbs?

Dan! I failed to understand if you finally got the engine running -- you must have, as you indicate that the regulator is not working well (raising and lowering the voltage). So, yes, you probably have a problem with the "control box" (which incorporates the voltage regulator, cut-out, and current regulator). But that probably will not solve the problem of no spark/no lights. The electricity has to pass through the control box to get to the Ignition/Lighting switch. You may have a faulty connection there (look at the A and A1 connections). Also, examine the Brown/Blue wire which travels from the control box to the ignition/lamp switch.


You probably have a mechanical problem -- slacken off one of the four 4BA screws that clamp those accordian type couplers to the carb shafts -- this will allow each carb to work independently of the other. Once the idle has come down and the car no longer runs, reclamp the two shafts together. This is a STARTING POINT for the proper adjustment (for you you need to remove your air manifold).

Hope this helps!

John

Your hints at solutions to these mysteries is appreciated.
Thanks for solving the condesor problem.

Dan
Tune75 Midget John - my daughter just recently (3 months ago) bought a '75 MG Midget.
Not ever having an MG in the family, I surfed the net looking for
technical
data. Luckily I found your site and have used some of your info several
times already, but can not find any info on this particular problem.
About
6 weeks ago it started to stall every where she went and the car was
running rough. I started with checking her timing and found it running at
about 30 degrees BTDC. The Haynes manual recommended 4 ATDC for the 1500
engine. (All the emission controls have been taken off by a previous
owner). Compression is low in #2 cylinder, and we planned on fixing that
this spring. Upon trying to adjust the timing I could not get it past 14
BTDC and at the original setting the car would not idle properly, had to
adjust the idle up just to keep it going. I changed the points and checked
the dwell, 56 degrees, bought a new rotor, distributor cap, wires, plugs
and coil. Finally noticed that she has a 25D distributor and not a 45D.
So I set the static timing at 6 BTDC, and dynamic at about 28 BTDC, but
the
car still was running rough and would not idle properly. Finally traced
it
down to #4 cylinder not getting a spark. Swapped #3 and #4 spark plugs to
see if the trouble would follow, it did. So I put new plugs in and the
problem went away and I finished the timing of the car. Since that time I
keep losing spark on #3, the spark plug does have excessive fouling. I
have tried three different brands of plugs, the latest is suppose to be
running hotter, two sets of wires, and the problem still persists. The
car will run fine for a couple of days, maybe a week and then it starts up
again. My question is where does the problem lie? It is driving me nuts.
I would greatly appreciate an answer. Thanks. Randy
Randy!

There are several reasons the #3 cylinder continues to foul plugs.
The problem might be engine related (bad rings); it might be carburetter
related (mixture too rich); but it probably isn't ignition related as you've
already changed everything there.

The spark plugs should be Champion N12Y, now more easily available
as RN12YC. While the manual calls for a gap of 0.025" I have found that a
gap of 0.035" results in fewer fouled plugs. I think that with that 25D
distributor your best bet is to set the timing where the engine idles the
best (usually between about 10-20 BTDC vac disconnected, or 20-40 vacuum
connected. You see, there are two very different 25D distributors -- one
uses manifold vacuum, one uses ported or carburetter vacuum. Without
disassembling your distributor to look at the limiting finger on the cam,
you don't know whether you've got the 10 degree cam or the 20 degree cam.
The 10 degree cam is timed 20 before at idle and the vacuum is connected to
the high speed port on the carb. The 20 degree cam is timed at 15 before at
about 1500 with the vacuum disconnected. When you hook up the vacuum to
manifold vacuum, the timing jumps up to 35-40 BTDC at idle.

You should check the mixture on the carb, just to make certain that
it's not too rich.

In the end, you'll probably be faced with reworking the engine
before you thought you would.

Contact me before you get the engine work done, as there are a lot
of little tips I can offer to make the rebuild a good one!

John

TuneMGAJohn


I have been working on a 1960 MGA that my friend has. The A was in
storage for quite some time and the engine was rebuilt along with the
carbs before he purchased it. The challenge before me is going up a hill
she fall on her face like it is running out of fuel, but you bring the
RPM down and you are on your way again. It sounds like she ran out of
fuel to me. We have replaced the distributor [ bushings were shot]
took the SUs apart cleaned and adjusted them and installed Grose
valves. A new fuel pump, tank, and filler. Cleaned the connections and
ground connections. Checked for vacuum leaks and replace the hose from
the distributor to the vacuum line. Each time we work on it, she runs
better and stronger, but when we come to a Big hill She fall on her face
under load. Can you offer any insights or direction that we need to
look at closer?
He loves driving the A and just wants to make it road worthy.


Thank you so much for the responds. We have done everything that you have forward. The A was bought with a rebuilt engine,[do not know what was done exacty to the engine.
It sounds like it has a bigger cam, so your next step is to work on the metering needles, because we have this challenge under a heavy load on the engine. What sze of needle would you recommend? Maybe it would be better to have it put on a rolling road. I hear there is one in Omaha, but I would like to have some other sized needles on hand.

Michael

Michael!

There are three main areas, three links in the chain, to make this
MGA start and run powerfully. The first is the engine: Is the compression
even? Are the valves adjusted to 0.015"? Do you have a thermostat that
allows the engine to quickly warm to operating temperature (180 F)?

The second is the ignition: Champion N-5 plugs gapped at 0.035"? A
nice spark from the coil? Points set at 0.015" for a dwell of 60 degrees?
Timing set at 20 degrees before top dead centre? Vacuum connected to the
rear carb?

The last is the fuel: Fuel flow steady at one pint per minute?
Vent tubes from the top of the carb open? Silt washed out of the bottom of
the float bowls? Carb pistons moving up and down easily? Oil in the
dampers? Exhaust unrestricted? Air cleaners cleaned and oiled (if wire
mesh)?

It's so hard to say what needle is necessary! You might arm yourself with needles for the 1500 & 1600 MGAs along with the 1800 3main MGB (an MB, I believe). Let me know how it works out!

John

TuneAcceleration Fades when Engine is WarmDear John
I hope all is well with you and that I can impose on your goodwill for a suggestion as to what to do about above snag.
I have owner this car since 1987.

Equipt: MGB LE 1979 (Cdn 86of250) 1.8 ltr standard, engine and head re-built 8,000kms ago with Crane camshaft,
single carburetter Stromberg also re-built 8,000 kms ago (original automatic choke replaced with hand choke long ago)), de- toxed (no air pump, pipes and tubes modified long ago), Pertronix electronics in distributor installed recently, looks like original
coil and possibly condenser, S.U. fuel pump, fuel filter is clean (transparent, no gunge) , spark-plugs standard and buff to light
reddish brown colour inside. I am using 92-94 Octane fuel.

Bad behavoir: On acceleration when warm only car behaves as if it floods or like turning key off briefly. By taking foot off it returns to normal in a few seconds and can accelerate slowly after. Idles well/smoothly at 850/1000 rpm and runs well at high speed, no apparent loss of power.
Car was tuned up and mixture optimized (with proper Stromberg key), engine oil in damper is 20W50, fuel consumption 10.5 Kms per litre on 80% highway, little-to-no black smoke out of the rear(ie normal). Starting is easy, usual Stromberg pause. I had a tendency to pinc for a while so I rotated distributor slightly anti-clockwise which eliminated it, then moved it clockwise as far as poss. not to pinc.

What else can I tell you? That is all I can think of for now.
Have you any thoughts on what it could be? Fuel? Electrics? Whenever you can, I would like to hear from you

John!

There are four systems which act like links in a chain to make your car run properly: emissions, engine, ignition, carburetion.
If there is a problem with the emissions, you can detect it by removing the vent line from the Stromberg to the charcoal and making a test run. There should be no difference at all in the performance of the car. If there is a difference, then you know there's something wrong with the charcoal canister or something.
The engine is not the problem.
The ignition might be the problem for two reasons -- there is an occasional open in the wiring at the distributor that acts up when the vacuum advance is shifting the CB plate in the distributor -- or, there is an incorrect line-up between the rotor and cap when the "points" break. I believe that the Pertronix system is fixed -- that is, there is no possibility of shifting the pickup, rotationally, so this is probably not the problem.
The carburetion may be flooding the mixture, literally, if there is a problem with the automatic choke assembly. Try removing the choke assembly, completely -- just let it dangle. There is no need to block off the several (six) holes on the side of the carb when this choke assy has been removed. Then, go out and drive the car and see if the problem still evidences itself.

John, you have an unusual problem, to be sure. But a methodical inspection and testing of each system WILL result in success. Contact me when you've found a hint and we'll take it further!

John


TuneExhaust BackfireI have a 1980 MGB.

When I slow up the exhaust has a back fire or coughing loud sound.

What do I look for?

Chuck
Chuck!

When you slow down quickly the cylinders cannot get enough air/fuel mixture to combust. The uncombusted air/fuel mixture then passes into the exhaust. If fresh air is added, either through an air pump (emission control) or through a leak in the exhaust, it can cause a pop pop popping sound -- sometimes an actual backfire (a rifle shot).

If you have exhaust leaks, fix them. If the airpump is still connected, disconnect it if you can. If your local pollution laws do not allow this, then either replace the gulp valve and/or lean out the fuel mixture.

Hope this helps!

John

Tune48 TCMy friends Art & Yvonne Lewis and Jerry & Shirley Niemi tell me your the best, so here goes.

I bought my 48 TC from Jerry Goegen a few years ago. Because it had been sitting in his barn/museum for quite some time, it needed quite a bit of work to make it a reliable driver.

Took car to Chuck Troast at New England Classic MG in Freedom, NH, about an hour away.

He had a great deal of difficulty getting engine in tune. Turns out distributor was pumping oil from the crankcase into the distributor. After rebuilding distributor, still couldn't get tuned properly. Also starter acting up - kicking back.

Pulled engine and checked timing chain - was installed out-of-phase!

Dropped crankcase and checked internals. Connecting rods ground down severely - looked unsafe, so decided to do an engine rebuild.

One of the mechanics who worked for Chuck at the time rebuilt the engine (2-years ago this month). Crank was ok. Bored .120 over and balanced by machine shop in Portsmouth, NH. Installed new 3/4 cam, connecting rods, hardened valves, lifters, timing chain, chain tensioner, pistons, ring gear, freeze plugs, motor mounts, clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing. Rebuilt oil pump.

After finally getting back on the road, still didn't feel right. Turns out Glen, the mechanic, installed the timing chain out-of-phase and installed rocker shaft backward. So installed new rocker shaft and repositioned the timing chain.

Car finally running well.

This summer, TC seems a bit sluggish, so I decided to tune it up.

Adjusted valves (as specified for the new cam), installed new plugs and checked Point gap. Then adjusted timing (using a 12 volt test lamp). To my surprise, if I adjusted timing to TDC or a few degrees before TDC, car had no pulling power. Repeated this a few times to make sure I hadn't made a mistake. Same results. Only way I can get the engine to run reasonably well (but not optimally) is to advance the timing to the point that the starter begins to kick, and then back off a bit. Timing has to be advanced 20 degrees or so.

Also adjusted carbs (balanced the two carbs) but can't get the mixture on the rear carb right. If I adjust leaner, engine slow and if I adjust richer engine slows and if I raise the piston a hair, engine wants to die.

Finally, the engine seems to run much rougher than my wife's TD. At about 2500 rpm (driving or sitting still) quite a bit of vibration evident. Chuck Troast says that TC motor mounts are much stiffer than TD, so nothing unusual about vibration. However, I am convinced that the engine was much smoother before the rebuild.

Question # 1: How do I tune this engine given the circumstances I have related?

Question # 2: Any thoughts about the vibration?

Question # 3: Will you be offering a workshop on TC transmission rebuild any time soon?


Elliot
Elliott!

A couple of notes. I think the 3/4 cam was an error. Usually 3/4 means 3/4 race and that gives a very, very rough idle because of the valve overlap. The stock cam is so very much better. Would it make sense to change now? Maybe -- you can do this job without removing the engine -- the cam comes right out of the front.

The timing makes me wonder if you're doing the static timing correctly -- or if the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley are correct -- or if this 3/4 cam really needs some incredibly advanced timing. Connect the test light to the distributor side of the coil and to ground. Turn the key one. If the points are closed, the current will run through the points to ground and the test light will not illuminate. If you open the points, then the current will run through the test light to earth. Turn the engine to TDC. Hold the rotor clockwise (to shut off all the automatic advance) and turn the distributor clockwise until the light "just" comes on (points just opening). Then it's timed at ZERO / STATIC.

The problem with the mixture may, again, be due to the cam. If this is so, then perhaps the idle will have to come up to 1500 or so (at least for tuning). After matching the air flow, then judge the mixture by lifting the piston as little as possible with a screwdriver (rotate it). If the engine stumbles and dies, it's too lean. If the idle speed increases and increases and increases, it's too rich. You want a "blip" in the rpm, just allowing the rpm to rise about 50 before it begins to fall off.

With the engine nearly bolted to the frame and the exhaust directly connected, there IS a lot more vibration that with the TD. BUT -- it shouldn't be that noticeable. You can always sit in the driveway and slowly rev the engine -- listening for szzzzes and rattles which come from the exhaust.

What have you done?

John
Tune74 BGT Good day John,
I have gone through your sites question & answer pages, to try to find a
similar problem as I
have. I purchased this car one and a half years ago, I have most of the
cars documentation
right back to the order form to the dealer. The people picked the car up
in
England and
drove it in England for a few months, and had it shipped back to Rochester
New York. I
am only the second owner.

Now for the problem, the engine looses power, sometimes backfires through
the carbs (HIF's)
at 2400-2500 rpm. Any gear is the same, sometimes it will smooth out when
you accelerate
gently through this range, and sometimes not. Starts good, idles fine, but
runs bad through
this range.

Previous owner has removed all of the emission equipment, the carb.
butterflys are replaced
with the units without the springs (something that prevents run-on), looks
like the jets we replaced, as
were the needles, and the needles and seats...
I found what appears to be the original carb parts in a box of all of the
old parts. Added new stainless
exhaust system. Car sat stored for 4 years before I got it.

Compression is fine, except for #2 is about 10% low.
Replaced : points, condenser, rotor, fuel filter, alternator, coil,
fuses(all), vacuum lines(all),
had distributor and vac. advance unit checked on a machine, all of the
plug
wires are new.
Had one site show me how to 'by-pass' the ignition, made no difference in
running. Fuel
pump ran fine when we drained the old gas out of the tank. Spark plugs are
a brownish-grey
on all four.........

HELP ! I am beginning to think I may have some sticky valves ? Or the
carbs are goofed
up bad?

Thanks for your help,
Ken
Ken!

Four links in this chain: Emissions; engine; ignition; and fuel.

Emissions could be causing the problem if they're been disconnect
improperly: So, remove the vent lines from the carbs (the line that
connects the front float bowl to the rear float bowl and then travels over
to the charcoal canister). Open the carb vents to the atmosphere. This
should make NO difference -- if it DOES make a difference, then there's a
problem with the ELC or PCV system.

No problem with the engine, no sticking valves.

Spitting through the carbs is caused by retarded timing or lean mixture.
Double check your distributor by rotating the rotor -- it should move easily
20 degrees anti-clockwise. If it is hung up (from rust) then the timing
will not advance correctly or at all. I know you've already had it checked,
but check it yourself. The vacuum unit won't cause this problem.

Fuel: Check fuel flow -- one pint per minute. Now check the rotary chokes.
Follow me through this procedure: Remove the suction chambers, springs, and
air pistons. Place a small diameter hose on the float bowl vent. Puff into
this hose -- gasoline will squirt up out of the jet a couple of feet! Now--
place your finger over the jet and blow into the hose as hard as you can
with your mouth. Watch for gasoline bubbling up through the choke tube (to
the rear of the main jet, and offset a little towards the other carb). Blow
so hard your face turns red! If there is ANY gasoline -- any at all -- it's
too much. Remove the carbs and change the O rings on the rotary chokes.

Contact one of the Georges in the cc line about the Western NY MG Car Club!

Hope this little bit helps.

John
TuneTune-UpHi John,

I'm restoring a 74 MGBGT(Rick Brown's daily driver) and a 80 MGB in which I'm at the tune-up stage. The ignition system is all in good working order. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil. Valves adjusted. Carb dismantled, cleaned(pretty sooty), new parts too. {diaphram, gaskets, vacum line, Manual choke(water choke removed), gulp & check valves, air pump,air filter, intake-exhaust manifold(planed, new gasket, no leaks), egr valve sealed ,fuel pump & filter etc. It appears a "relativley" small fire melted the throttle cable and did some paint damage to the underside of the hood(no other visable signs of fire).
So.. It starts fine, idles fine(850rpm), accelerates fine, shuts off fine at idle, But, doesn't return to idle. It doesn't appear to be a mechanical problem(every thing moves smoothly). With the air cleaner off you can push the piston down and the idle returns to 850. Maybe a vacum on top of the piston holding it up and not dissapating? Oh, I tried 30 wt. in the damper-No idle return, replaced it with Moss Z-S carb dashpot oil (thinner) and still No idle return. I ordered a new spring for the overrun valve in the throttle disc. Do you think thats it? It looked OK but who knows? We're out of ideas.... I would greatly appreciate your advise. This is my first encounter working on Stromberg Carbs so I'm learning as I go. But a friend is helping me out with this. Thanks for your time and if you need more information Brian

PS How do you check-top off the shocks? level on ground? jacked up evenly? Squeeze it into the top nut till it runs out? Steering boots and rear end...90wt....Hypoid or non-hypoid?
Brian!

I'll put my money on the spring loaded valve -- the overrun valve -- on the throttle disc. Remove the carb and solder this shut. Also note that the car will NOT run properly with the air cleaner off.


Shocks: heavy hydraulic oil with a seal sweller and an anti-foaming agent. Just jack it up high enough to gain access to the 5/16BSF bolt (use a 13 mm socket).

Rack: Introduce 90 hypoid (probably doesn't "need" hypoid but it will work just fine) through the damper, fitted above the pinion on the rack housing. Then, remove one or two of the thinnest shims. Make sure the steering doesn't tighten up at the full lock positions!

Hope this helps!

John
TuneBackfiring1. Could you tell me how I can stop the car from back firing? I haven`t
realy drove it for a year.
Thanks

2. I don`t have an airpump or airpump belt on. The back firing has to be
something else.
Thanks
JIm
Jim!

1. I don't have as much information as I wish, but I assume that the
airpump is still fitted to your engine. This is the belt driven pump that
sits above the alternator on the right hand side of the engine. The quick
solution is to remove the belt from that pump -- or simply cut it off.

If this works and allows you to drive the car again, great! If you
encounter more difficulties, please write again.


2. backfiring -- a pop pop pop from the exhaust
during deceleration is caused by the addition of fresh air to the exhaust --
perhaps a leak up around the manifold. A spitting, hiccoughing, from the
carbs is caused by retarded timing or a lean mixture.

John
TuneCars Runs Poorly- Timing or Carbs!John,
I have a chrome bumber 74 with a rebuilt motor(.20 over) that was running just fine. However, I decided to remove the emissions hardware and upgraded to K&N filters. The car now seems to run real lean at speed. I upped the needle size(from Joe Curto) twice. Car runs better now, but still will miss at 55-60 mph, feels like it won't run through a paper bag. If I pull out the choke at those speeds the missing dissapears and the throttle is very responsive.
I have tried to go through all the electrical and fuel related items to find leaks or other problems, but have not found a solution. I have re-tuned the carbs(spark plugs look great), replaced the vacumm assist and line, changed out distributors, converted out of points, messed with the timing, new coil, fuel pump checks out and new fuel filter.
The car itself only has 33K miles, so I have ruled out the carbs being warn out. Plus like I said, it ran fine before I removed the air pump and associated equipment.
Any ideas?

Thanks. Bill-
Bill!

There are four systems: emissions; engine; ignition; fuel. If the car feels like it running into a headwind, like you're pulling a trailer; if it coughs and/or spits under light load, then either the timing is retarded or the mixture is too lean. Pulling out the choke will cure the bad running in either case.

Since is "was" running just fine, then the problem is not the engine itself. That's good!

Timing! Now this probably isn't the problem since you've already changed everything -- distributor, coil, wires, plugs.... But, just for fun, check the timing at 1500 rpm and again at 4000 rpm, both times vacuum disconnected. The timing at 4000 rpm should be 32 BTDC; the timing at 1500 should be close to 15 BTDC. Are you running "normal" plugs -- champion RN9YC (#415)? Do NOT run platinum plugs!! They should be gapped at 0.035".

Carbs... Go back to the ABD needles. Ensure the float height is 1/8-3/16. Disconnect the vents from the carbs to the charcoal adsorption canister. Use 90 weight oil in the carbs (WHAT??? 90 weight??? Just try it!). Balance the air flow and adjust the idle mixture. Then go out for a run.

Oh, another thing! Remove the suction chambers and pistons. With a foot long piece of hose attached to the carb vent, puff into the hose. That will pressurize the gasoline in the float bowl. It will shoot 1-2 feet out of the jet. Make sure each carb works as the other (and one of the jets isn't partially plugged).

By disconnecting the vapor lines from the carb vents to the charcoal canister you have eliminated any chance of creating a vacuum in the float bowls. It's not uncommon, during a "detox," to plug off a line which should be left open!

This is a problem I help solve frequently. It's in the timing or the carbs.

John
TuneRun-on, Whining ClutchJohn:

I have a 77 MGB with the following issues:

1. You hear a whining noise at idle (in neutral), with the clutch out. When you engage the clutch, the noise goes away (still in neutral). Could it be that my master or slave needs to be replaced? What else could it be?

2. I am experiencing run on, when I shut the car off. This happens if you have been driving for awhile, and the engine is warmed up. Any idea of the cause?

Thanks in advance for your advise,
Sal
Sal!

The whining noise is to be expected. It is amplified by a wooden gear knob; it is damped by a spring and plunger on the remote control assy -- and by having the proper bolts and spring washers in place. It is simply the noise of the gears turning in the gearbox. You should be using Castrol 20W/50 GTX in the gearbox.

With a 1977 there is running on and there is run-on or dieseling. The running on is a wiring fault, corrected in 1978. It cannot be easily corrected if you have a different carburetter -- simply by changing evaporative hoses. In this case (with a Weber, for instance), it's necessary to fit a diode into the BROWN/YELLOW wire that comes from the alternator -- fitted with the arrow of the diode pointed towards the alternator.

Give me a call if you need more assistance!

John
TuneVacuum AdvanceJohn,
My 1967 MGB has been converted to electronic ignition. A friend and I recently retimed the engine which brought about a discussion concerning whether or not the vacuum advance operates with the modern ignition system. Your clarification of the question would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob

Bob!

There are two components of timing: mechanical advance and vacuum advance. There are several methods of switching: mechanical (points) and electronic (optical or magnetic). The mechanical advance is strictly rpm related; the vacuum is load related.

If you have the original 40897 distributor, you should time your engine at 32 BTDC at 4500 rpm, vacuum disconnected. Reconnect the vac advance to the rear carb before carb tuning. This timing should also show as about 8 BTDC static and about 20 BTDC at idle.

Hope this helps!

John
TuneVacuum Advance HoseJohn,
I have a 1977 MGB. It has ben de-toxed except for the EGR valve. The hose from the vac advance on the distributor runs into a tee in the vac hose from the EGR valve to the Stromberg carb. Is this correct?
Thanks, Don
Don!

The original distributor on the 1977 MGB used manifold vacuum -- and to the manifold it should be connected. The EGR valve, on the other hand, opens at high speed, so it should be connected to that top, rear port on the Stromberg.

Time the car at 32 BTDC at about 4500 rpm, vacuum disconnected.

John
TuneRunning Poorly, TDJohn:
I have a 1952 TD and the gas mileage is about 12 mpg and the car runs pretty good until it gets warmed up. We live in a small town and the garage mechanic says my throttle shaft and bushing are worn and need to be replaced so it doesn't suck air there. The engine is suppose to have only 30,000 miles on it,can this be the case?
Wayne
Wayne!

Two things. Yes, the throttle shafts can be work so that the carbs draw extra air at idle -- even at 30,000 miles. But the leak is very tiny and while it affects the idle, it has NO effect on high speed running.

Your MPG figure is very low indeed! Around town use, frequent starting and stopping, etc etc can get you down to 12 mpg, I suppose -- but I would tell you that your TD should be getting about 25 mpg. But, again, driver choices can reduce that figure a lot.

Make sure your mechanic has timed the car correctly. Either ZERO static -- engine not running; or 24 BTDC at 4000 rpm. Timing makes a GREAT difference in the power, and, hence, the mileage.

Let me know what you find!

John
TuneUnder Load Car MisfiresHi John,

My '76B has:

1) 32/36 Weber Carb w/ manual choke
2) Euro-spec dist. w/ vac. advance
3) Rebuilt engine
4) Petronix Ignitor
5) A serious problem

This car runs so well around town and even on the open road at or around 55-60 mph. Once I get it on the highway, it runs well until I pin it/accerate though and once the speed reaches 65-70 mph, it will act as though it is running on 3 cylinders and the exhaust gets pretty choppy, occasionally with a mild backfire or two. Once I back off the accelerator for a bit, it clears itself out again, but it only does it under load. Will do the same thing climbing a light mountain with a steady incline.

I have changed the wires 3 times, plugs twice, and coil once. My shadetree mechanic friend set the timing at or around 16 deg. with vac. connected, which after doing it, he said was wrong.

I think the alternator may also be failing as the red ignition light remains on during my drive. Someone on the MGB Yahoo page said it sounded like a bad diode, or something. A mechanic I am not. The light no longers comes on when the key is turned to the 2nd position.

If you have a second, please help! I'm desperate. I'm ready to sell it at my wife's yard sale. If you'd prefer that I call, I would be happy to.

Thanks so much,

Bill
Bill,

Set the timing at 32 BTDC vacuum disconnected -- or, set it at 20 BTDC at idle, vac disconnected. Better to use the first figure with a dial-back timing light.

There are two vacuums -- ported, which gets greater on acceleration, -- and manifold, which gets greater on deceleration. For a better idle, connect the dist to manifold vacuum.

When the car runs like its pushing into a headwind, when it coughs and spits, esp when climbing a light incline, then it's either too retarded or too lean.

So, check the float height in the carburetter, too. There are plastic floats and brass floats. Have your mechanic call the shop once he know which is which, or send me your fax #, and I'll provide the float height values.

The ignition warning light should come on when the key is turned ON, and should extinguish when you exceed 1000 rpm. If it's not doing that, then the alternator probably is not charging, and the battery will go dead. First, though, the car may run poorly. Replace or rebuild the alternator, but pay attention to the battery and starter solenoid connections, as they are critical to proper operation.

Call for more specifics!

John
Tune'72 MGB TuningI have '72 B that at some point a previous owner installed a '71 GK engine. It has the HIF4's and the distributor from the '72 engine. I had the carbs rebuilt by Joe Curto and just tuned and adjusted them. I readjusted the floats and blew out the fuel lines because I didn't think the delivery volume was ample.The car runs great, good acceleration, good idle, but when I get the car up over 40 and ease back on the throttle where I'm neither accelerating nor decelerating (neutral throttle, if you will), the car surges or stumbles, almost like fuel starvation, but when I hit the gas, it goes. If I leave the throttle where it is and climb a slight grade, it stops surging and pulls strong. It doesn't spit or backfire so I know it's not the timing, which I set at 20 BTDC. I put a '71 distributor, 41339 I believe, for that engine and it still does it, with or without the vacuum connected. Both distributors aren't frozen up and so the weights move freely. I've been messing around with this for a year now and I'm at a loss. It's been suggested that it could be a vacuum leak but I can't find one. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The problem you have is either timing or fuel. Timing is easier to attack first. Between 1971 and 1972 the distributors and the timing changes a lot. For the 1972 distributor, you should time the car about 15 BTDC at 1500 rpm vacuum disconnected. When you reconnect the vacuum the timing will jump to about 40 BTDC at idle. You can simply experiment by advancing the timing five degrees to see if that makes a difference with your problem.

Secondly, you can disconnect the evaporative lines at the HIF carbs that go to the charcoal canister. Just leave them loose and test drive the MGB again. On or off there should be no difference. If there IS a difference, then there's a problem with the charcoal adsorption canister or the plumbing.
TuneTune UpI have an MGB, or maybe it's a Midget. Of course do you think it might actually be an MGTD? I'm not really sure, but in any case, the tune-up shop down the street wants a lot of money to tune it up. Even on "special" they want to charge me 49.95. Since you have done a lot of these, and can probably do it really fast after all these years, can you do it any cheaper?
I have something better. My uncle developed "Tune-up in a can" which he sold to the big guys. They squashed it and won't sell it because it takes their profit away from all those small parts you think you have to buy -- points, condenser, plugs, plug wires. I can BEAT that $49.95 price as this stuff is only $44.95. Pour it in the tank and PRESTO, you're ready to go.

Philadelphia residents add 4% sales tax; batteries not included; you must be 21 to order; offer not valid in American Samoa; employees of the HASPCO corporation not eligible.

TuneCold BackfiringI have a 74 MGB roadster with a set of HS 4s that appear to be giving me trouble but I’m not positive they are the problem.

Background: Installed new points, cap, wires, rotor, Set points as specified; set the timing as you have suggested; Watched timing with timing light and noticed the timing does jump from time to time but generally it holds steady and advances when accelerated.

Issue: When cold, pull choke, fire motor, run smooth but fast due to choke. Back off choke as she warms. When carb snapped to accelerate sharply, the rear carb backfires on acceleration, backfires, then accelerates fairly smooth as RPMs climb. When the engine warms to operating temp, the carb runs smoother but does backfire from time to time on a hard acceleration. No problem with front carb. Both carbs have had new throttle shafts installed, floats adjusted and jet set at prescribed flats +/- a flat.

You should have HIF carbs on your 1974 MGB -- the SUs with the float bowls on the bottom. What I would do here is to double check the timing. You know, you might try 15 BTDC at 1500 rpm vac disconnected and see how much of a difference that makes. Timing is so critical! You must be using the "lift the piston" method of determining the mixture. You should notice a 50 rpm increase in idle rpm when you just begin to lift the air piston. Oh, another thing -- I now suggest using 90 gear oil in the dashpots -- that makes for a richer mixture during acceleration.
TuneMissing Engine When LoadedYou may recall that the 77 B you worked on for me when I was
a professor at U of M B-school was struck in my RIT parking lot
in Rochester NY last summer, I replaced it with a 75B (41k Miles!).
I have the following problem: at high speed, say 65 mph or above
(not sure, speedometer is not reliable, 3500k to 4000k range) the
car bucks and misses when engine loaded (up even a slight incline)
and sometimes just does it, hot or cold, when I feather the accelerator,
it recovers, but sometimes I hear the "woosh" sound from the exhaust
and even a backfire from time to time....seems like I had this problem
with my 77 once too...ideas?
Your timing is either too retard or too lean. John bets that it is
probably too retard. Your timing should be 32 DEG MAX.
TuneAnti Run-On ValveI just bought a 1973 MGB

It doesn’t run very well or often or at all. The problem is a combination of a lot of things.

Carb, Anti run-on valve, clogged vent pipes etc.

My question is where does the anti run-on valve get it’s power ?

My slate wire is just hanging under the dash.

Where does it go.
The anti run-on valve gets its power from the slate wire. The slate wire is connected to the key switch.
TuneMGB Timing Marks & Ground CableFound you web site and youtube how to videos. They are GREAT! I have a couple questions re. my 1980 MGB (not and LE). I am not a skilled mechanic, my friend who introduced me to MG’s and helps keep mine going is currently serving in the air force in Germany, so I am on my own right now.



Where should the engine ground cable be, I have not been successful in locating mine?
On the static timing video, the timing marks appeared to be underneath the pulley. Mine appear to be above at about 11 o’clock. One is marked with a white arrow. Is this the one to use?


Thank you so much. Also, thanks for the video on disappearing dashpot oil. Most helpful!

The engine earth strap on a 1980 MGB runs from under the right rear head stud washer to the bulkhead -- I believe it lies under the anti run on valve bracket.

On all the engines 18V and newer, that's 1972 and newer, the timing marks are at 11:00 (I sure hope they gave that engineer a bonus!). Each mark is five degrees, the last mark in a clockwise direction is Top Dead Center.
TuneMGB De-SmoggingI have a 1979 MGB that no longer is required to comply with the state emissions regulations. I would like to remove the air pump and ancillary smog devices to reduce weight and improve performance. Can you direct me to a resource to properly remove the no longer required emissions equipment? I also own a 1967 MGBGT and my long term goal is to have both cars set up the same including carburetion.

There are three systems in place on your MGB -- the smog system, the positive crankcase ventilation system, and the evaporative loss control. The smog system is a drain on engine power; the other two are passive systems which are good to leave in place.

Remove the smog pump and the air injection rail. The holes in the cylinder head are easily plugged with 7/16-20 bolts, but Allen set screws look much better. If you're keen on it, you can remove the extra pulley from the water pump as well as the bracket on the top two water pump bolts that supports the adjuster for the smog pump.

Then, remove the gulp valve and bracket. Remove the 1/2" elbow from the manifold, tap it 1/4" NPT and fit a 1/4" NPT pipe plug into the hole -- Turn the tap in only as far as necessary to make the 1/4" NPT Allen Screw fit flush with the top of the manifold.

Run the manifold vacuum directly to the distributor.

If you do not have overdrive, simply disconnect the WHITE or WHITE/BROWN wire in the gearbox wiring loom from the main wiring loom at the junction of the three looms at the rear of the right front inner fender. The gearbox loom probably only has three wires (WHITE, GREEN, and GREEN/BROWN). If you have overdrive, then fuse that WHITE wire with an in-line ten amp fuse.
TuneMGB TuningI don't know if you remember but during the B Maintenance symposium I mentioned I was about to tune an engine I rebuilt for my 72 GT. Weather has improved to where I can run it with the garage door open so I am trying to get it done.
I have set the ignition pretty well but here is the problem. The engine rebuild included a new VP-11 APT cam, I had to overbore to .060, and a ported and polished standard late head, opening up the ports a good deal. I have needed ether to start it initially when cold so far. Once warm it runs way too fast, about 2100 rpm at idle with the choke off and throttle screws backed out full. If I lift a carb (standard HIFs) piston it dies out nearly all the way. That tells me the carbs are too lean. Looking in the throat of the carbs the jets are maybe 1/16ths or less down from the shoulder in the carb intake. If I richen the carbs, it should speed up more. I'm guessing that with the increased volume flowing through the vacuum in the intake is lifting the carb pistons too much and drawing more fuel. It seems to me that the only solution is to change needles to something that allows less fuel at idle. Is my logic wrong?

I've driven it around the block and it seems strong, no hesitation or pinging on acceleration. Thanks for any recommendations you can give.
You've probably already worked through this (despite the turn in the weather -- there's still snow on the ground here) -- but here are some hints.

I always open the initial cam specs for run in -- better too loose than too tight.

Rev the engine right up to 4000 or so and set the timing at 32 BTDC at max advance with the vacuum disconnected. By 4000 the distributor has usually opened all the way. Then let it idle down and re-connect the vacuum -- if you check it again at idle, it wouldn't be uncommon to find it at 25-40 BTDC because of the vacuum.

Get that idle DOWN -- there is either a mechanical reason the idle is too high, or there is an air leak. You can find the air leaks with spray carb cleaner -- or you can listen to the carbs to discover which one is draughting more than the other. If the engine doesn't have enough air, it will slow down and kill. Timing and mixture will not cause a fast idle.

The jets are probably close to being in the right spot -- but after you get it idling at 800-1000, then lift the pistons, just as the workshop manual suggests, and judge the change in rpm. The engine idles rich, so when you lift the piston the rpm will rise about 50, then fall off.
WheelsRim StraighteningAre there sources that straighten or repair rims? Are there used rims/wheels for sale someplace? I have a couple of rims that are not balanceable due to out of round….bent and dented like the previous owner hit a big pot hole or something…. Thanks Ron WindemullerRon, I have not found a competent wheel straightening firm for our ROstyle wheels. I've tried several companies which do a good job cleaning up the rim and painting, but the wheels still wobbled. Remember that there are two types of centering on wheels -- from the center hole or from the lugs. Our ROstyles are centered on the lugs. I once had a fellow inspect 50 ROstyle rims, grousing all the time that none of them were perfect. If you want to purchase used rims, try Paul Dierschow at Sportscar Craftsmen in Arvada, Colorado. Hope this helps.
WheelsWheelsGood evening!

I need find one gambling of the WHEELS for buy, and to install on my car, it is one replica of MG - 1952.

Please give me more information where, i could find this equipment.
I hope for your answer.

OSVALDO!

I believe that you have a replica MG built on a Volkswagen chassis. Is this true? If so, you will need to find a Volkswagen supplier for the wire wheels. The original MG wheels will not fit the Volkswagen chassis.
WheelsWire Wheels, Upgrade EngineJohn,

Greetings from the windy city. I had called you last week about a wire wheel conversion for my Magnette. You had said that the half-shafts needed to be welded - but I wasn't sure exactly why - we had a rushed phone call during your "tech time". I imagine there is a length issue with the half shafts/wire wheel hubs. I'd rather not weld a half-shaft, and having some pretty damn good machinst friends with some big-ass lathes - I'd rather have a set of half shafts made - or maybe even several sets and talk some guys in the Z register into going in on this with me. At any rate - what measurements and where from - would I need to take to tell someone what size modified half-shafts to make?

Also - with a modified "originality!" battle cry - I would like to extract a little more oomph out of the original three-main 1500 that is currently in "Maggie". I am completely against a five-main conversion or anything radical - don't like to confuse the next "care-taker" down the road, when they have to figure out why some parts don't fit! Anyway - what can be done in the course of a normal re-build? Are oversize pistons and rings available for the 1500 block? Would a small compression ratio bump - say to 9.0 or so be too much? My plans are basically this - if possible :

1) Overbore to remove any cylinder wear to the next higher diameter for which pistons and rings are available.

2) A slight compression ration increase (9.0 to 1 or therabouts) and matching ports with manifolds.

3) Possible flywheel lightening and balance of reciprocating parts.

4) More ambitious cam shaft timing (again, nothing too radical I want a nice idle too!)[? 5) Larger S.U. carb/manifold set up with a less restrictive exhaust (it doesn't look like there's too much room to put a MGB exhaust manifold or any other larger diameter system on a Magnette with that firewall clearance)...

And that's about it, John. Your thoughts? And by the way - yes - the brakes are completely rebuilt and up to snuff!

Cheers Octagonally,

Tom

TOM!

The major difference between the MGA diff and the Magnette diff is that the Magnette diff is "much" wider. By much, it's probably 1-2 inches on each side. That is the reason you cannot simply fit an MGA diff underneath; that too is the reason you much create longer half shafts. If your friends can cut the splines (ten on the inside, and six or eight on the outside) then you're in luck. The half shaft is pressed into the flanged rear hub (the original shafts require an ENORMOUS press!!). Use the original half shafts as your guide. Perhaps Jeff Powell of Melrose Park, Illinois, knows of someone else wanting to do the same conversion -- there is probably savings in numbers on these shafts -- maybe you can work a deal with someone!

The Magnette is really underpowered -- that was my realization when I got mine up and running -- AND, that's why I fitted an MGB three main engine, which is not really a radical departure (it's the same as overboring your 2 7/8" block to 3.16"). However, that 1500 engine can really produce some power if you follow the right steps. Fit MGB valves to the head and ensure that you have at least a triple cut valve seat -- the power of these engines depends on the size and shape of the inlet valve seat!! So, get the head ported and polished by someone who knows what they're doing -- APT in California is the "ultimate" shop for MGB head work with Davids Anton and Vizard in charge. A stock MGB camshaft would be just fine, and the 1 1/2" carbs are just fine too. It's that head that you want to work!

Hope this helps a bit.
WheelsTiresHi John,

I noticed in your FAQ you said 185R70 were ok. I now use 175R70 and had planed on going with the 185. However, on a wet street the 175 seem like I am on ice skates. If I increase the size I would expect the problem to be even worse. So I am looking at the Firestone rain tire in the 185 version. But after sliding through a stop light one day on a wet street can not bring myself to go ahead with the purchase of a larger tir.

Hope to see you at one of the shows this year.

Awaiting Spring in St Louis, Stan

STAN!

I continue to suggest the use of the 185/70 tires. You know, the "original" size was 165 x 14, but those are hard to find. You can get them, however, from Coker Tire in Chattanooga TN or from British Wire Wheel in Santa Cruz, CA. However, we use Kelley Metrics & Goodyear Invictas. Why your tires are acting as they are, I do not know. Maybe it's the tire, maybe it was the rain?
WheelsPainting WheelsHi there - great site!

I just had my 73B painted the original Damask Red. Now I need to paint the Rostyle wheels. The only paint people tell me are Moss silver or Eastwood silver/argent and satin black.

Do you know of any other paint spec's out there? I'm trying to get as close to original as I can.

Thanks for any help or advice you can provide!!!

Ryan

RYAN!

This is the method we use at University: Remove the tire, have the rim sandblasted and powdercoated in a slightly metallic medium silver -- similar to FM 149 or TM 211 (both Duplicolor, matching 1976 Ford Grenada Silver), then rough up the area which should be black with a Scotchbrite pad, then paint that area with a brush in satin black enamel. We use high gloss enamel because it looks better. Then, if you wish, coat the entire wheel in clear (you'll need to have scuffed the whole wheel to get it to stick).

These wheels will look GREAT, and will be very durable.
WheelsWire Wheels, Looking for MGAJohn,

I am in the market for an MGA. I want wire wheels. Therefore I had been limiting my search to cars with "knock-offs." As you probably know, Dayton Wire Wheels makes bolt on wires, or has a bolt on conversion to a spline, so you can use their knock-offs. (I don't know if you can use original factory wires with the bolt on conversion spline?) If these are good products, this gives me many more cars to look at! What do you think of Dayton Wire Wheels?

I am looking for the best MGA I can find for $12-14,000.00. Year, model, color are not as important as condition. I want something that has been restored to original. No 1800 cc engines and the like. I want a good clean solid driver. Know of any cars for sale?

Thanks,
Jeff Young

JEFF!

MGAs are relatively difficult to find. T types and MGBs are far more plentiful (and less expensive!). My suggestion is to look everywhere you can and then follow the "shopping" list below. Try www.mgcars.org.uk, try Hemmings Motor News, try the local MG club in your area, consider running a classified ad in the largest newspaper near you ("MGA wanted..."), and ask EVERY MGA owner you can find if his car is for sale, and from that owner get the names of other owners (nearly all MGA owners are networked through clubs or socially).

Follow these rules:

* Look at six before you buy one
* Buy the one you want (wire wheels, red...)
* Avoid body damage and rust
* Buy the NICEST MGA you can find
* Have the car checked out by a shop or by a person experienced in MGAs before you buy it
* Take your time!

If you don't want an 1800 engine, then you certainly don't want some sort of bolt on wire wheels. Hold out for the real thing! Dayton wire wheels are very nice and Dayton is a good company, but bolt ons make it look like a Cadillac.

Good luck!
WheelsReplacing Wire Wheel SplinesCould you tell me what the procedure is for replacing wire wheel splines (rear) on a 66b roadster?

Cheers

Mike

MIKE!

You have either a "BANJO" rear axle or a "SALISBURY / GT / TUBED" type rear axle. The banjo has a ring of nuts on the front side; the GT has a ring of bolts on the rear side.

The banjo rear axle requires removal of the drum, the half shaft and splined hub, and then the new hub must be pressed onto the half shaft. You must use a machine shop to press the axle out and in.

The GT rear axle is easier! Remove the drum, remove the rear nut (1 5/16"), then smack the hub and it will fall off the axle.

Good luck!
WheelsWheelwright I am trying to locate any information regarding the art of automobile wheelwright. I have not had much success on the net. I desire to learn the art. If you have any information regarding this subject, I would appreciate your sharing it with me.

Thank you.
Bill Haughton

BILL!

I would contact Dayton Wire Wheel in Dayton, Ohio; British Wire Wheel in Canoga Park (?) California; or Wire Wheel Services of New England (whose location escapes me). Offer to go work at one of these places for several months at no charge to them! Respoking (if that's what your goal is to learn) is probably as most other endeavors -- 5% inspiration, 95% perspiration. BTW, motorcycle shops do a lot of respoking -- of course, you'd have to get a tattoo!
WheelsRemoving Wire Wheel Axle PlugsJohn,

You were so much help before I thought I'd try again. I am replacing the rear hubs from my 59 wire wheel car. What is the best way to remove the wire wheel axle plugs from the rear hubs? I thought they could be pressed out with the axles but am not sure if they go on the outside of the hub or the inside of the hub. I know you have to replace them, but do they get pressed in with the axles or do the get tapped in from the wheel side? As you can tell, I am massively confused over this simple item.

Thanks,

Dave Woerpel
MGA #62403

DAVE!

You have probably already figured out this problem but just in case. The plug (welch plug, freeze plug, core plug) is pressed into its relief from the outside. Remove this way: Place the hub in the GIANT PRESS with the axle shaft hanging down. Place a shaft on the plug and begin to press DOWN -- this will bend the plug. Relieve the pressure on the press, move the shaft out of the way, remove the plug (it should just lift out), then continue pressing the axle shaft downwards. But remember! Support the hub ALL the way around its base, as the pressure required to force out the axle shaft is SO GREAT, that an incorrectly supported hub will bend!
WheelsWheel Bearings & Thrust WashersJohn -
I enjoyed meeting you at Hagerstown this summer and more so at Waco this fall. I really enjoyed your tech sessions there. I hope you are feeling better now - I appreciate that you went ahead with the sessions even though you were "under the weather". If I could get a bit of advice from you. I am considering replacing the bearings and thrust washers on my '79B rear axle. I replaced the
wheel bearings about 2 years ago, and did replace the pinion seal. I read the cautions in the service manuals about the proper torque settings and the crushable spacer. When I replaced the seal, I marked the position of pinion nut, and counted the turns to remove it. I returned it to that same position on reassembly, and all seems well.
The car has 98,000 miles on it, and I plan on driving it to Vancouver next summer for MG'99. I want to renew all of the bearings and thrust washers. Should I replace the pinion bearings, or leave them in place? If I do replace the pinion bearings, what do I do about the crushable
spacer (no longer available)? Anything else you recommend I do?
Thanks for your assistance. Sincerely, Wayne Kube

WAYNE!

I still cannot believe how sick I felt those several days in Waco -- it came on me so suddenly! I spent most of the time lying in bed but did "do my duty" at the technical seminars. Those are always a great pleasure for me.
About your differential. I would NOT change the bearings as a matter of course. You know, we disassemble TD/TF, MGA, and early MGB diffs which have nearly fifty years and hundreds of thousands of miles on them -- and as long as they were well lubricated, they do not show any bearing failure.
Now, you certainly could change the washers behind the differential and pinion wheels -- to lessen the "clunk" when the spider gears take up the slop in the carrier -- but more than that simply isn't necessary. Change
the oil between now and then, perhaps -- and add the extra pin THROUGH the tension pin which holds the pinion wheel axle (these are noted in my article about rear end clunk in my technical book).

Hope this little bit helps!
WheelsInscription, TiresJohn, I just purchased a 1951 MGTD Mk II. I have two questions which I
thought you could answer "off the top of your head."

1) While polishing the left hand vertical brace for the windshield, I
noticed on the inside surface an inscription made with a vibrator pen.
It looks like "Th Sb(h)ti". I have attached a digital picture of the
inscription. On course scratching on chrome does not photograph well. Do
you have any idea what this inscription might relate to? The previous
owner has no idea.

2) I have Dunlop Gold Seal Nylon 2 ply 6.00-15L TUBELESS tires rated max
load 1005 lbs at 32 psi max pressure. They are currently pressurized to
28psi. When going around a corner I get a drifting sensation. The manual
says for Tube Type, not tubeless, the pressure should be 18 psi. Do you
have any recommendations. My local garage says the right pressure is
very critical to proper handling of this car. The MGTD weighs approx
2060 lbs.

Thank you and have a good day

Stu Keen, Venice Florida

Stuart!

I cannot offer an explanation for the inscription -- perhaps it was from
the chroming shop? A previous owner (I doubt it)... I just don't know.

The tires, however, should be inflated to about 30 in the front, 32 in the
rear. But -- try different pressures yourself and "dial in" the pressure
that feels good to you. Remember, these are bias ply tires -- not the
radials you are so used to driving. These will skip and slide around
corners -- and they feel every little bump in the road. Most owners opt NOT
to replace the tires as original and go for radials. You have original
looking tires, but have to suffer the "old fashioned" ride. I never have
figured out why the Brits wanted such low pressures -- they were continued
until the end of production -- those 1980 MGBs also called for what seemed
to be very low pressures in the radials. Again, experiment, and leave the
pressures where it feels comfortable to YOU! I doubt you'll like anything
under 26-28, but try it!
WheelsTiresThe other day you answered my question about correct tire pressure for
my MGTD. The current tires are Dunlop Gold Seal Nylon 2 ply 6.00-15L
tubeless.

I've been reading over your Technical Questions and Answers and notice
that you generally recommend radial tires for the MG. Having noticed in
the receipts for the 1951 MGTD Mk II, which I just purchased, that the
tires on it were purchase in 1989 (they have no ware but I am concerned
about deterioration of rubber over the tens years of basically non use),
I am thinking about changing to radials.

What size radial tires should be used on the MGTD, what manufacturer
and where can they be purchased?

Thank you once again for your assistance.

Stu Keen - proud owner of a Mk II

Stuart!

I would find 165 x 15 radials. If none are easily available, go to 175.
I know the ride will be improved 100%. Use any manufacturer. We've used
Goodyear. The "best" were the Michelin XZX 165x15 but they're no longer in
production. You can, however, find any tire from Coker Tire in
Chattanooga, Tennessee.
WheelsRacing WheelsJohn, I'm preparing a 65 MGB for vintage racing and am stuck for wheels.
Presently it has 60 spoke wires. What is your recommendation? How well
would 72 spoke wheels work? Do you have any minilites available? My first
thought was to go to a solid wheel but I have had no luck in finding the
conversion parts.
Thanks
Ron

RON! Be certain to get on the MG Vintage Racer's Newsletter list. It's
run by S Mark Palmer of Bethlehem, PA. I believe that everyone will tell
you to convert back to disc wheels. You'll need another diff housing as
the WW diff is 3/4" narrower on each side than the Disc Wheel diff. On the
other hand, why not just stay with 60 spoke wheels? I know Jeff Powell
races his TC with 16" 48 spoke rims -- you can contact him in Melrose Park,
Illinois. I don't believe he's ever lost a wheel. Also, contact Phil
Smith, Upper Sandusky, Ohio -- he and his wife campaign their 1967 MGB/GT.
Hope this little bit helps.
WheelsWire WheelsHI!,

To convert from disc to wire wheels, does one need to change the entire
rear end? I was told that you can simply change the axle shafts and
hubs.

Thanks,

Derf

DERF!

You must convert the ENTIRE rear axle assy, with this exception.
Sometimes, just sometimes, you can get away with changing to WW hubs on a
disc wheel late model MGB (75-80). If the rear axle is not aligned well,
or if the springs have sagged, or if the tires are wide then the outside of
the tire will rub the inside of the wheel arch. Of course, it would help
me to know what year and model you were talking about!
WheelsPolishing Wheel RimsJohn,

My 1980, MGB LE wheel rims are original and dull looking. Other than
machining them is there anything I can do myself to make them brite again?

Thanks

Len Kosatka

LEN!

The original rims were turned and polished, then coated. Whatever
your mechanical or chemical method is, you'll have to remove the coating
with paint stripper. After that, I believe polished with a small buffer
would be the best. After that you must repaint the "black" area, which is
not black at all, and then coat the wheels.
The only time I worked on a set I was not satisfied, despite the TWO
DAYS I spent working on them. This was my method. Raise the right rear
wheel, chock the other three wheels, start the car and leave it in fourth,
idling, while you use ascending grades (fineness) of paper (up to 2000) to
polish the wheels. The wheel spins fairly quickly, so I used EXTREME
CAUTION fearing I'd lose a finger or worse. But, as I said, in the end, the
effort was not worth it (at least that's what my customer said!!).
Even at $250 each, or so, the NEW WHEELS are the easiest and best
option.

FAST FORWARD!
WheelsTiresHello Mr. Twist. I own a 1952 TD. I purchased your Tech Booklet several
years
ago and found it full of valuable interesting information. I have restored
the car to my satisfaction, for enjoyment not shows. Although, everyone
says
I should show it, that's not my bag. I just enjoy the hell out of driving
my
car. Would you be so kind to E-mail me and tell me what size tires you
recommend I put on my MG. I remember reading someone's recommendation on
this
but I can't find it. If it is in your book I'm over looking it.
Thanks,
Bill Thomas

BILL!

The "BEST" tires were the 165x15 Michelin XZX, but those are no
longer available. SO, the next best thing is the 185/70x15. You can find
some tires in that 165x15 size -- but the manufacturers are not common. I
believe that British Wire Wheel (Canoga Park, CA?) has Avon tires.

You MUST buy radial tires for the best ride. Bias ply tires are
great for that "original" look, but they're a horror on the road. Radials
are not original but are so much better.

That 185/70 series tire has nearly the same outside diameter as the
165 tires, so the odometer will not read much differently (if at all) from
the tires you have on now.

We use a lot of Kelly Metrics.

Hope this helps!
WheelsBalancing Wire WheelsHI !
Would you know of , or be able to recomend any companies in the detroit
area,
or just michigan, that can balance wire wheels properly. Any information
you
can provide would be helpful.

Matt Fisher
Milford, Mi

MATT!

We find that a simple bubble balance is a wonderful way to set up
the wheels! Of course, you MUST ENSURE that there are no distortions in the
tread or runout of the wheel. We've seen "computer balanced" wheels which
has lumps on the tread. Even a pound of lead cannot balance out a lump!
Wheels"Donut" Spare TireSir,
After reading your responses to several inquires in the June/July 99 MG
World magazine, I would like to know if there is a suitable "donut" spare
that I can use, instead of the full size spare that is in my MGB now?
I would like a little extra room in the trunk for two sets of golf clubs,
currently one set just makes it.

Regards - Robert Klymciw

Robert!

You know, there MUST be a tiny wheel available, but I'm still
waiting for someone to tell ME what it is. Toyota might be a possibility --
they used the same bolt pattern as the MGB in the past.

SAFETY FAST!
WheelsSandblasting Wire Wheels, Renewing Rubber Bumpers, Gas TankHi John,

I just stumbled onto your web page. Great! I have a 1976 MGB that's
been in storage for several years. I would like to "renew" this vehicle,
I can't affort to restore it, so I'll sneak up on it a little bit at a
time.

May I ask you a couple of questions?

Is it safe to sand blast the wire wheels then paint them before
having new tires mounted.?
Any ideas on how to renew the black look to the rubber bumpers?
I need a pair of right and left door handles and right and left
rear-view mirrors. Do you have any?
The gas tank has a leak somewhere near the top. Can you replace the
tank? How much?

--
Thanks,
MicroData Systems, Ltd.
Robert "Dr. Bob" Campsmith

DR BOB!

Several ideas follow:

Remove the tires, get the rims blasted, and then have them powder
coated -- this is better than painting. Paint them after the powercoating
if you wish, then clear coat them. Now they're nearly indestructible!

We refresh the bumpers by sanding them! Sanding? Start with the
finest grit you can, but coarse enough to remove the layer of dead rubber
you want. We often start with 100 grit and work up through 2000: 100 -
220 -
320 - 600 - 1200 - 2000. Work with each for perhaps 1/2 hour. Use the 220
and up with water. Turn on the portable TV in the garage, sit on a stool,
have the bumper supported on sawhorses, have a 5 gallon pail of water, and
be set to do some serious work. At the end, there are are a number of
polishes, etc, to get a good sheen. Meguirs (spelling) makes a series of
good products.

Order your new parts from Moss or Victoria, wherever -- we do not
sell parts by mail order.

A new gas tank takes about two hours $120 to fit. The tank is
usually about $200. We use a WHOLE CAN of rust prevention black goo on the
top of the tank BEFORE we fit it!

Call for an appointment!

SAFETY FAST!
WheelsWheel PaintSeveral months ago I saw a recommendation for wheel paint from University
Motors ( I think it was University Motors). It consisted of a Ford silver
color with a clear coat.
Did you publish a recommendation for wheel color? What was it?

Thanks,
Vic

VIC! We use 1976 Ford Grenada Silver -- I believe Duplicolor sells it in
cans as T-149 (or maybe T-211??). This silver is a really excellent color
for the "original look."
WheelsRemoving Stuck WheelDear John,
I own a 1970 Midget. I cannot get the front driver side wheel to come off(New England winter). I have tried wd 40, tapping with a ruber mallet, gm heat valve lubricant and plenty of muscle ,time and agravation. Do you have any suggesstions before i cutoff and ruin a $150.00 wheel?

thanks for your time,

Tom Wilder

TOM! An old trick is to remove the spinner, then drive the car in a circle. The torsional forces will work the wheel loose. Now the questions! Is the tire flat? -- that's a problem. Is the car in restoration -- i.e. no engine? Push it? Pull it? Should you have the wheel turned full left or full right? I don't know. You should probably have someone watching to tell you when it's come loose so it doesn't fall off -- so bring your jack. I have never used this technique myself. I can tell you, though, that in thirty years of removing wire wheels from MGs, I've only ever cut TWO wheels from the splines.

Good luck!

SAFETY FAST!
WheelsTiresJohn:

I am told (by the "tire rack" website that the michelin 165R14 are no
longer available, except at Coker who took over the molds. The
alternate size that is still available is 185 70 14, but it won't fit
the wire wheels, only the rostyle. (The width of the rim is the
problem)

Is this true?

Are the 165R14's available anywhere besides Coker? Do you have any?

By the way, the alternator is doing GREAT.

Fred Geil

FRED! We fit 185/70 - 14 radials to both Rostyle and Wire wheels
frequently -- with good results. The circumference is nearly the same as
the 165 - 14 so the speedometer continues to be correct. We alternately
purchase tires from Tire America (Sears) -- Oh, National Tire and Battery,
now. And we fit Kelley Metrics. We have used Goodyear Invictas in the
past, too.

Be certain that the tire shop fits NEW RADIAL TUBES to the wheels. Purchase
new "rubber bands" -- the strip that runs on the outside of the rim to
protect the tube from the action of the spokes -- get those from Moss or
someone. The tire shop should use baby powder (talcum powder) when fitting
the tubes into the tire -- it acts as a dry lubricant. Take a small bottle
with you in case they don't have any.

Hope this helps!

SAFETY FAST!
WheelsTiresDear Mr. Twist,

I've been unable to find tires of the recommended size for may 79 MGB --
165R14. Is there an alternative
size the you would recommend? Also, is there a particular brand of tire
that you recommend?

Thanks,

--
Timothy Sipka

CLXXXV / LXX - XIV Try Kelley Metrics or Goodyear Invictas. We've used
both with great success. You CAN buy 165 - 14 from British Wire Wheel in
Canoga Park, CA -- they sell a German brand. But the 185/70's work just
fine!
My sister works at the math department at Albion -- they just sent out the
high school math test to some 800 private and public HS's. Stop down
sometime!
WheelsWheel FlaresHi John,
I realize this will probably go against all your MGB insticts but I
am currently in the process of customizing my '72 MGB. I am looking for
a front set of wheel flares but so far have been unsuccessful in finding
them. Can you help me or recommend someone who can?
Thanks,
Mike James

Mike!

I think you're on your own! But, contact S Mark Palmer of
Bethlehem, PA. He's the editor of the MG Vintage Racing newsletter and may
have some information you can use.
Wheels1971 MGB - front hub freeplayJohn,

MGB 1971 with 90k. I'm getting the car ready for spring but there is one more
repair left. Well, there is always just one more thing to do. This is my question,
Why do the front hubs have about 1/4" movement with the wire wheels on. You can see the brake
rotor move between the pads. The nut on the axle is tight. The hubs rotate
smoothly. Is it worn bearings?

Thanks,
Lee

Lee!

You probably have sorted out your freeplay problem -- but if you haven't, please get back in touch. My email backlog is now reduced where I can quickly answer questions.

I wonder if you had too many shims between the bearings -- so that even when the hub nut was tight, there was more than the 0.002" freeplay necessary.

Let me know!

John
WheelsFinding wheels Hi John,

I purchased the ex Dave Ash/Gus Ehrman 1957 Sebring car from Jerry Goguen.
Through my research I have found out that it was raced at Sebring on a set
of 60 spoke ally Borrani wire wheels. I am trying to locate a set for my
restoration of the car to Sebring specs, but they seem to be hard to come
across. I was wondering if you know of any potential sources or have any
possible leads!

Regards, Michael Eaton

Michael!

I have one customer with them, but they've been on that TD for
nearly 50 years. If I were looking for them, I'd run ads, all at the same
time, on the internet and in print. I'd use the www.mgcars.org.uk site;
I'd use Hemmings; TSO, MGA! (an MGA owner might not have them on his car,
but might have a set, know of a set...), British Car. AND, I would send out
SASE's to EVERYONE who has an ad in any one of the various British newsstand
or club publications. You'll spend a couple hundred bucks doing this, but
you'll find a couple of sets to choose from!

John
WheelsWire Wheels-MGB John, I am having difficulty with removing the wire wheels to replace my
MGB's wheel bearings. Specifically, the grease cap. Any suggestions?
Thanks, David Lackey

David!

This note arrives long after you've completed your task -- but this
is the tool we've constructed for this task. At the right rear of the MGB
cylinder heads, 1968 - 1980, is a tall nut, 3/8-24 on the bottom, 5/16-24 at
the top. As it is, we have a number of these long nuts left over from
engine work. We take one of those nuts and screw a very long (6") 3/8 bolt
into it. To lock this bolt onto the nut, we thread a 3/8 nut onto the bolt
first, then lock the nut to the other nut. Now, thread the other end of the
long nut (5/16-24) onto the stud, grip the long bolt with a pair of vise
grips, tap it with a hammer and PRESTO, the cup pops out.

Happy New Year!

John

FAST FORWARD!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan 49301
(616) 682 0800
www.universitymotorsltd.com
Wheels15" Wire WheelsJohn

Can you help me with a question nobody else seems to be able to answer? I have to replace the Wire Wheels on my 1972 MGB. I'd like a wider wheel (not tire) in the 15" diameter. I'm currently running 185-70-14's. What 15" tire would provide the same height of wheel and tire combination in 15" as in the 14", 185-70-14's?

What replacement wires do you use? Dayton? Dunlop?

Is there any reason this is a bad idea?

Many Thanks For Your Consideration
Joe Mahoney

Joe!

I have heard through a very reputable source (Eclectic Motorworks), that a 15" rim with 60 series tires will work, at least in the disc wheel configuration. But I have no personal experience. Try contacting Hendrix Wire Wheel for their opinion. Always use DAYTON wheels!

John
WheelsNew Set of Tires for 1972 MGB Hi John,
I am in need of a new set of tires for our original condition 1972
MGB. The spare size is 5.60 x 14 and wheels on ground are 165sr14. All
are mounted on stock rally wheels.
I cannot find a mfg. that carries either size.
I have checked two sites on line without any luck of finding these
sizes.
Tire dealers want to go up to a 175-70-14, as the closest retrofit.
Would this be a proper size, without problems of clearance?
Do you know what size I really need.
Do you know of a mfg. or dealer that would have the original size?
Do I have to discard my wheels for different size, in order to get
modern tires?
I live in central Missouri. Any thoughts of how to get answers to my
questions?
I would appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Jim & Sue


Jim!

We fit Kelly Metric 185/70x14, although nearly any 185/70 or 175/70
will work just fine. Someday we'll get back the 165x14 -- we used to fit
the Michelin XZX -- the best tire ever -- but they're gone right now.

Hope this helps at this late date!

John
WheelsMGB wheel bearings


Hi John -

I have a '73 MGB and have been trying to replace the right front wheel
bearings, but am having a difficult time trying to figure out how to get
them off, and assume I would have an equally difficult time getting the
new ones on. My manuals are no help. I hope that you can give me some
advice. The outer bearing was pretty much shot and came apart when I
pulled the disk. The inner bearing is now my immediate problem.

Thanks

Michael
Michael!

I just retrieved your message from a "lost" file. Did you get your
front wheel bearings apart, replaced, properly shimmed, and back together?
If I can be of any help now or in the future please just jot me a note!

John

WheelsStuck Knockoff in 78 MGBJohn,
I recently bought 78 MGB. I have been able to remove 3 of the four knock off and grease the splines (something which was not done in a long time) but have been unable to loosen the right rear knock off. I have 2 wrenches and neither have worked, I am afraid I am going to strip it. Do you have any tips on loosening a stuck knockoff?
Thanks
Jason
Jason!

Have your associate sit in the car with his foot on the brake, with the car on the ground, so that the car sits PERFECTLY IMMOBILE. Use the largest hammer you can find (three pound to five pound). If you damage the wrench, new ones are less than $20. If you damage the spinner, a new one is about $30. If you damage your hand or fingers, new ones aren't available -- so be very careful when you are hitting that wrench. Heat may be of some assistance, but you may damage the chrome or burn your hand. This IS a fierce-some task!

Hope this helps!

John

WheelsDifferential WheelsHi John,
What do you mean by differential wheels? Is that the ring and pinion? Or the small gears on the lateral side of the drive shaft I.E. the axle shaft side?
John
The diff wheels are the small wheels in the carrier cage that spline up to the half shafts.

John
WheelsTire PressureHi John

What is correct tire pressure for a MG TD?

I have just purchased a set of radial wide whitewall 165R-15 tires for my
1951 MG TD. To my surprise (horror) there was a big yellow sticker on each
stating, ³Inflate to 35 psi². This would make my light-weight MG ride like a
buckboard! My MG owner¹s manual states that bias tires should be inflated to
18 psi. Most MG TD owners that use radials with tubes recommend 24 psi
front, 28 psi rear. Thus I question inflating to 35 psi. ( I temporarily
inflated my existing blackwall 165R-15 radials (with tubes) to 35 psi. The
additional pressure made the road contact patch so small that the tires
skirted/skipped on the pavement. Obviously a dangerous situation.)

BF Goodrich makes an almost identical wide whitewall 165R-15 tire known as
Silvertown. I phoned their technical representative. He said tires should be
inflated according to the weight on each. He provided me data points for a
curve which is virtually identical to the²LOAD/INFLATION TABLE for 165R15
Radial Tires² provided by the Department of Transportation. There apparently
are standards for each tire size. Shouldn¹t these new tires conform to the
standard?

The basic weights for the TD are as follows:

Front axle 980 lbs (approx 490 lbs per tire, front)
Rear axle 1054 lbs (approx 527 lbs per tire, rear)

If I account for driver and passenger and luggage, etc., the maximum weight
per tire would be approx 720 lbs. According to the DOT Load/Inflation table
for 165R-15, I only need to inflate the tires to 16 psi - very close to the
18 psi recommended in the manual for bias type. However, such low pressure
would make steering stiff.

Do these new whitewall tires really have to be inflated to 35 psi when safe
pressure is normally determined by weight on each tire? There was another
sticker on each tire that read, ³Highway vehicles have tire loading placards
or certification labels affixed to the door edge, doorpost, or in the
vehicle owner's manual that contain the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR)
for each axle². This implies weight is an issue to be considered when
inflating.

Which do I believe, 1) inflate to 35 psi or 2) inflate to pressure as
calculated from the actual weight on each tire?

Stu

STU!

I have always used 30 in the front; 32 in the rear. My advice would
be to start at 35 front and rear. Drive the car the way you would,
normally. Then drop the pressures to 30. Drive again. Then drop the
pressures to 25 and drive again. Between these pressures you can find the
spot that is best for you and your driving.

I never understood those "extremely" low pressures -- 18psi? On
bias or radial this pressure is "near flat" for me!

Let me know what you find!

John

WheelsDifferent WheelsJohn;
1. I'm just getting to the wheels in my 'running and rolling' restoration of my '58 MGA. I discovered that two of my wire wheels have 60 spokes and two have 48. Assuming I get these properly balanced (with new tires), is there any problem with this? Does it matter how I pair them, front/back or side/side?
2. Thanks for the reply. I'm not into the looks of the car right now, nor the additional cost of two new 60s, so the front/back option seems best right now for me. However, you said the 60's should go on the back because they're stronger. I would think the front would get more torque and twist thereby favoring the stronger wheel. What was your reason for the stronger being on the back? Thanks again,
Mike
Mike!

1. Several options here: Sixties in the back because they're stronger. Sixties on one side, Forty eights on the other so the car looks right from each side (and who can see both sides at once?). Purchase two more sixties (those forty eights are pretty light weight).

Rob MacKenzie was changing his MGA from wires to twin cam wheels, a project which took more than a season. His car looked mighty odd with one type of wheel in front, another in the rear.

I haven't answered your question, but have given you some hints.

2. The front wheels turn, that's for certain, but most of the time they're running free or braking. The rears are driving the car AND braking -- double duty.

John

WheelsTiresHi John,

I live just outside of Vancouver, BC. Given that it can be very rainy; would you still recommend 185-10/14 Kelly Metrics for a 1980 MGB with Rostyle Wheels?

Thanks, Neil.



Neil!

I have been very pleased, all around, with the Kelly Metrics. Please follow the suggestions of your MG contemporaries in your area -- it's relatively dry here. Except lately -- the humidity has been so high that the knife sweats before you can cut the air.

John
WheelsTruing Wire WheelsCan anyone suggest a good place to have wire wheels "trued"?

Thanks, Dave
David!

At shop labor rates, truing wheels is no longer cost effective.
Purchase new ones. There are two new wheels: Dunlop and Dayton. Dunlop is
the OEM but they moved the plant to India about 15 years ago. Quality is
always an issue. Dayton provides excellent wheels for not that much more.
Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro NC can give you excellent wheel service --
they can take a set of rims and tires, shave and balance, so that your car
runs as if it's sliding on glass! It's not inexpensive.

Hope this helps!

John
WheelsMidget Rear Wheel CirclipsJohn: I'm installing new rear brakes cylinders and linings on my 1974 Midget. It's late Saturday night, Sunday is soon to arrive, and I'm afraid I'm about to utter some words I should not say on a Sunday. This regards the installation of the large circlip that attaches the wheel cylinder to the backplate. Firstly, in what orientation does the circlip go as regards the curvature of the clip, and how does one best install this item without going crazy? Thanks as always.

Dennis
Dennis!

By now you've discovered that the clips, supplied with the cylinders will NOT fit around the bleeder. Cool, heh? The best option is to purchase some "real" circlips from the hardward or automotive store.

The next option is to grind away a small relief in the circlip so it will fit around the cylinder AND make way for the bleeder.

John
WheelsTire Size - MGBJohn,

I have a 69 MGB which needs new tires. I have read several sources about sizes. MOSS Motors had a article last year, which I misplaced. Preferred size for a "B" was 175/70/14 and GT was 185/70/14, if I recall correctly. Others sources had 185. Some cars I've looked had 175 and 185.

Which is the best for general driving, no racing.

Thanks,

Phil
Phil!

My suggestion is 165-14, but those are so hard to find. So, you have to find a 175/70-14 or a 185/70-14, but no larger. You don't want weight in the tires and you don't want to screw up the speedometer with a different circumference. I've seen 205/60-14 on MGBs but they're HORRID!

John
WheelsTire Size- MidgetI have a 1979 MG Midget with regular rims- not wire. Original size tires not available- what size will fit? What, if any, brands do you recommend.

THANKS! Rob
Rob!

The original size was 145 x 13. I would find the very smallest tires you can, as oversize tires will work the suspension too greatly.


John
WheelsWire Wheel ConversionHow would I convert from wire wheels to bolt-ons on a '74 MGB. I've read some conflicting information of the web, ranging from "You have to change the whole rear axle" to "just get the bolt-on hubs". I figure you guys ought to know. Why am I considering this? SCCA Solo II and regional road racing, and maybe some vintage. I don't know if wire wheels will hold air with tubeless racing tires on them.

Thanks,

Dave

Dave!

Converting from wire wheels to disc wheels involves these considerations:

The front end is easy. Simply switch hubs (well, it's not that simple with all the wheel bearing shim setup, but it is straightforward). The hubs use 1/2" studs on a 3 1/2" diagonal. Nissan wheels (through about 1998) fit.

There are two rear axles: Wire and Disc. The Disc wheel rear axle is wider by 3/4" on each side to account for the offset of the wheel. On a standard MGB, it is necessary to swap the entire rear axle to achieve the correct spacing of the rear wheels. However, if you are racing, your wheels may not have the same offset as the factory wheels -- so I would fit your wheels to the car before changing over the diff. You might be able to use longer studs and shims, depending.

Again, the wire and disc wheel diffs are different widths -- the disc is 1 1/2 wider overall. Hence, the half shafts are longer for the disc wheeled car.

Hope this helps

John
WheelsWire Wheels and TiresJohn,
Am I correct in assuming that the wire wheels do not hold air for tubeless tires?

Thanks,

Dave
Dave,

The spokes in the wire wheel -- all 48, 60, or 72 of them, push and pull, so sealing a wire wheel rim is very difficult. To protect the tube, there is a large rubber band -- of course, duct tape works as well. One of the suppliers coats in the inside of the rim with clear RTV silicone sealant -- and uses no tubes. But once these spring a leak, finding it is nigh impossible, and cleaning off the silicone to fit a tube is difficult. Use a RADIAL tube -- they're thicker than bias ply tubes.

John
WheelsMG Wire Wheel RepairDo you true MG wire wheels or do you know of anyone in the Midwestern region that does? I've never worked with the spokes on a wire wheel myself but I know that it can take quite a while to get right. Add to that the fact that most of the spokes and nipples are rusted together. In the end, it's usually less expensive to purchase new Dayton wheels rather than have yours trued. Hendrix Wire Wheel service in Greensboro NC is the only shop I know that does any work with wire wheels.
WheelsMG Hub PullingI got the big 1 5/16 nut off (whew)- but now I’m having trouble getting the hub pulled off- the hammer tap didn’t do anything for me. Use your drift and a hammer and knock the tapered washer loose (the one with the split in it, just under the nut). Then, grasp the hub, pulling it outwards and give it a BIG crack with the hammer. This works 99.99% of the time.
WheelsMGB Wheel BearingsI currently am the owner of a 1978 MGB (My Daily Driver). It has rear wheel bearing problems. Is there a video in your archives to show me what to do to replace them.
If not what do I need to do and what tools do I need to do it?
I have looked in the MG Forum but to no avail not a good description of how to
The rear wheel bearings hardly ever fail. To change them you need two uncommon home tools -- a slide hammer and a press.

Remove the drum, remove the 1 5/16" nut, tap the rear hub and it will fall into your hand. Refit the conical washer backwards and replace the nut.

Remove the brake backing plate. You have 3/8 bolts (9/16" wrench) holding the plate to the axle; you have a 7/16" brake fitting holding the brake line to the rear cylinder; you have a 5/16" clevis holding the brake cable to the handbrake lever. Remove all those.

Place the fingers of the slide hammer around the conical washer and bang, bang, bang -- pull the half shaft and bearing from the rear axle housing.

Press the bearing off the half shaft (do not misplace the thin spacer between the shaft and the bearing.

It is not necessary to grease the rear wheel bearing, as it receives oil from the diff -- so you MUST refill the diff with 80/90 hypoid gear oil when you're done. Lubing the rear bearing with oil or grease is a good idea for the initial run-in.

Interestingly, the rear wheel bearing and spacer are the same parts on a 1950 MG TD!

John Twist's legacy as an MG Technical Specialist