Please pardon our dust while we improve the website over the next few days.  If you need anything please feel free to call 616-301-2888 or email Mike.  Thank you!

Q & A: MG Brake Rebuild Guide

John,

1. Must be the hoses. I backed the brake switch/adjustment screw all the way
off and still had problems. I even when as far as removing the brake presure
warning housing (5 port brass setup) and cleaned it. Strange that there
wasn't any issues before the MC rebuild and brake bleed. I guess too much
brakes is better than no brakes.

Thank you John. I'll get those flex lines replaced. Would rerecommend doing
all 4, front and back?

Another question, suspension. I have the rear shock conversion setup. The
car doesn't ride very stiff and so I was looking into getting new leaf
springs for the rear, but I'm not sure what to do for the front. Is it true
that I can had a heavier weight oil to the front shocks to stiffen up the
ride? Or do I need to look into new stiffer front coils? for a 74 RWA, what
leaf springs would you recommend?


2. Thank you, this definetly helps. If I can pickup some rear lever shocks for
a decent price, I'll get rid of the tubes. The tubes were on the car when I
bought it. After looking at the car I think the ride higth is good and it
looks level. I want to try the heavier oil in the front levers. For the
life of me, after looking at the setup, I cannot figure out how to
add/remove the oil? I have the shop manuals, but I cannot find anything
walking me through changing the oil on them. What is the correct method?

Richard

Richard!

1. Use factory hoses unless you opt for those stainless steel lines.
The stainless lines flex less and make the pedal harder than it was
originally. I don't know the price difference.

On yo... read more